You guys there at Hammer are so 'customer friendly' in the way you treat people - I find that so refreshing. Maybe it is because you are not franchised H-D dealers, but I tend to think that as engineer/riders turned businessmen you actually know what you are talking about ! Too many times at dealers and 'specialists' I have found that my knowledge exceeds that at most of the staff at such places - and I am nothing special ! All they seem to want to do is 'get your bike booked in' so that they can hand you a huge labour charge !
I have a 2018 Iron 883 and I just got done doing Cobra 909s, Cobra cone air intake, and Powervision programmer. Due to Wisconsin weather I haven't been able to take it out. But next winters project will be the 883 to 1275 conversion for sure.
Hi Arron, I’m one of the guys that had a problem, getting my original tune out to you lol , but we figured it out eventually. Very happy with the 1275 kit thank you . I want to add the auto tune pro kit or the target tune kit from you mabey this winter . Which kit would be the easiest one for me to learn how to use ? I’m not very good with computers but I’ll buy wich ever one is the most user friendly. Thanks again in advance .
First off, if your bike is a 2014+ (CAN bus) then you really have no choice, because they've discontinued the Autotune Pro kit for CAN Bus bikes. They still offer it for the 2007-2013 Sportsters (J1850 bus), but only because of all the pre-2007 Delphi Twin Cams out there that Target Tune won't work on. They keep the J1850 Autotune Pro kit around so those Twin Cams have an autotune solution, and it's the same kit for Twin Cams and Sportsters. But assuming your bike is a 2007-2013 and you've got a decision to make, well, there's essentially no difference in the user friendliness, the TT functionality is almost entirely transparent to you. With the TT product you just send your tune off to Dynojet to have it "Target Tune enabled", they send it back, you flash it in the normal manner, and presto, you have closed loop wideband. Be aware that the Target Tune product is a superset of the Autotune Pro product. In other words, TT supports the Autotune Pro function (although they don't call it that), it just adds the closed-loop wideband capability on top of it. In fact, in the TT instructions they advise running some Autotune Pro sessions to get the tune close, so the closed loop trims don't have to move it so far. So bottom line, if you've got a 2014+ Sportster, you're locked into the TT kit, it's all they offer. If you've got a 2007-2013 Sportster, then the only reason to get the Autotune Pro kit over the Target Tune is to save some money.
Arron thank so much for the detailed response, I’m very sorry I forgot about telling you what year my bike is. It’s a 2016 iron 883 with your 1275 big bore kit and Andrews n4 cams. So it sounds like target tune is the way to go. And I would just send Dynojet A copy of the base tune that you guys sent me originally. I’m guessing target tune is a better investment than an actual dyno tune? Because target tune is always making corrections while the bike is running? I would love to have you guys dyno tune my bike but seeing as I live in CT , it’s not probable lol . In your opinion would target tune be the better option? And thanks again For your reply I absolutely love the big bore kit and your air cleaner that I bought as well phenomenal products in my opinion
@@ghostdog1874 Well, first off, don't send off the base tune we provided. Instead send off your current working version of it, i.e. after any autotune sessions you've run on it. Second, yes, in my opinion, you're better off to spend your money on Target Tune than a dyno tune. Although the two are not mutually exclusive, you can do them both. But in reality, Autotune/TT does a really good job, at least on the fueling. And it adjusts it continually as you mentioned, which is nice. It does not however mess with anything else. Now a guy could argue that a skilled dyno tuner can get more out if it because he can adjust more things, in particular the spark advance tables. But I'll tell you what, speaking as your engine kit vendor, I'd really rather the spark advance tables not get touched anyway, because the engine kit has very specific requirements for those tables and doing the wrong thing to them could damage the pistons. A lot of work was put into developing the spark advance tables we provided, and they're proven to deliver max power while being safe for your pistons. They're best left untouched. Another thing a dyno tuner might tweak on is the target AFR table, but the one we provided you is a good blend of responsiveness and economy. Besides, if you want to tweak on the target AFR table, it's pretty darn simple to do it yourself. Just don't go leaner than stoich (14.6) in the cruise range and leave the high load, high rpm cells set rich, i.e. in the 12.5-13.0 range. Remember, a bigger number is leaner and a smaller number is richer, because it's air to fuel.
HAMMER PERFORMANCE got it and thank you , and thank you again for the the 1275 kit and air cleaner , they are definitely a lot of fun . I’m debating on sending my heads out to you guys at tax return time this season , I’d love the bigger valves , I think it’s the smash level I believe . I’m trying to get the cash together a little at a time , I want a set of your heads and target tune before summer . Fingers crossed
Somethin happened and when i try to flash the original tune back to the bike it says that the original tune is gone... I saved the original tune to desktop and email.... How do I get the original tune back on the power vision?🤔
when you say Auto-tune, is that with the narrow factory bands? Or is it only possible with the wideband add ons which are purchased from dynojet for the power vision?
All Powervisions come with the capability of auto tuning using the factory narrow band sensors as found on 2007+ models. This is called "Auto Tune Basic" and it works reasonably well through the meat of the riding range. It's simple to use, you just tap the screen a few times to enter auto tune mode, ride for a bit while it logs data, and then tap the screen a few more times to build and flash a new tune based on that logged data. More than 90% of our engine kit customers just load up the tune we provide and then perform narrow band auto tune sessions like this and never take their bike to a dyno, and achieve a perfectly satisfactory tune. Dynojet offers a couple of wide band add-on products for the Powervision as well. One is called "Auto Tune Pro" and integrates wide band sensors into the auto tune process. The process works identically to the narrow band process, except for one step early in the process where you select Auto Tune Pro instead of Auto Tune Basic. Auto Tune Pro does a great job, and it's particularly better than Auto Tune Basic in the high load, high rpm areas of the map. This product also works on pre-2007 models that did not have factory sensors. So it's a great upgrade for those bikes in particular because it brings auto tune capability to them. This video does a great job of showing how to use Auto Tune Basic and Auto Tune Pro: blogs.dynojet.com/video-advanced-autotune-for-the-power-vision/ The other wide band add-on product is called "Target Tune". It actually reflashes the Powervision with firmware that allows the Powervision to utilize wide band sensors in closed-loop mode. So the Powervision is constantly reading and interpreting the wide band sensors and incorporating the information into it's fueling algorithm. The Target Tune product also has the capability of performing Auto Tune Pro sessions. So in that respect, it obsoleted the Auto Tune Pro product. However, Target Tune only works on bikes that came from the factory with narrow band sensors, i.e. 2007+ models. So to continue to provide an Auto Tune solution for pre-2007 models, Dynojet still offers the J1850 version of the Auto Tune Pro product (all pre-2007 Delphi equipped HD's were J1850 bus). The CAN bus version of the Auto Tune Pro product was discontinued however, they want you to buy Target Tune for those models.
Hi, Aaron Does this not apply to a 2003 Sportster? Is this just for bikes that you have brought to you, or do you just make adjustments on your computer, after we get it tuned at a shop? I wouldn't even know what I'm supposed to do with the Powervision tuner, or if I need it. I don't know if ya'll have instructions for us to tune our own bikes with it, or if having it tuned at a shop is the best bet, then getting the file from them.
This applies to EFI bikes only. Your bike, being carbureted, uses an ignition module instead. And while many ignition modules are programmable if you purchase an add-on kit to go with it, if you choose your module wisely then there's no need to mess with programming it. If your motor is otherwise stock, there's really no advantage to changing out the stock ignition. But as you do motor work to raise the power level, the stock ignition in your bike quickly becomes a constraint, due to both it's low rev limiter and a curve that's too aggressive for a higher compression motor with it's faster burn speed. So all high performance projects on carbureted bikes involve a new ignition module. A 2003 Sportster like yours uses what's called a "nose cone" module, meaning it lives in the nose cone of the cam box cover on the right side of the motor. I would suggest either the Dyna 2000i module or the Twin Tec 1005 module (but NOT one of the EPA compliant EX version 1005's, they have limited curve selections). We mostly put customers into the 2000i module because it's reasonably priced and it's curve 4 is a perfect match for our engine kits and it's a proven reliable unit. We have a separate video that shows how to static time the 2000i and how to set the DIP switches properly for our engine kits. There's a low-cost nose cone module on the market called the "Ultima" that at first glance appears to be a clone of the Dyna 2000i. The DIP switch functions are all the same and it even works with the same programming kit. But it's built-in curves are different than the 2000i's curves, and none of the Ultima's curves are really suitable for our engine kits. So it's not a module we recommend. To use an Ultima with one of our kits requires purchasing the programming kit to go with it, and by the time you do that, you've spent more than the Dyna 2000i costs.
I think mine deleted the original tune from the pv1 device??? When i try to calash it back to the original it says it's gone.. I'm tryin to figure out how to get the original tune back on the pv1?
After I load a custom tune is there anyway I can verify that tune has been loaded into my ecm?I try ed to find it on the power vision. But can not see it ? Say "current tune"
The procedure for pulling the "current" tune is the same as shown in the video for pulling the "original" tune, except when you get to that step where you "Load Copy of Original", you instead select "Load Copy of Current". Once you pull the current tune and put it into a slot, you can bring it over the USB cable using WinPV and then examine it and determine if it's what you flashed. But if you did all the steps correctly, it'll be correct.
I noticed you said the PV on holds the 1st bike that you married tune...If the original tune is not in a slot on the PV unit any longer and the touch screen in not responding, but I have the Original (maybe) on my PC...is there a way to "flash" the ecu with it....NOT send it to the PV unit but rather flash like you can do with other tunes from PC to PV to ECM? if not do you know where i can get an original tune for 2017 FXDB
When i try to flash original tune back on the bike it says it's not on the pv1🤔 don't know where it went but I'd like to know how to get it back on the power vision from my desk top
Oh and also , do you keep a copy of our original tune on file or do I have to resend a copy of original tune when I upgrade to auto tune pro? Or target tune?
No need to get a new tune from us when upgrading to Autotune Pro or Target Tune. Just use the tune we originally provided for your engine kit, modified with any Autotune Basic sessions you've already run. In other words, just build on what you've got. In the case of Autotune Pro, you just install the wideband sensors and interface box and do some more autotune sessions on top of the tune you've already got, selecting Autotune Pro when your Powervision prompts you. In the case of Target Tune, you just install the wideband sensors and interface box, send the tune off to Dynojet, they enable Target Tune and send it back, you flash it, and then run a few Autotune Pro sessions on top of it, selecting Target Tune kit when it prompts you. TT functionality will happen automatically after exporting your learned values and disabling autotune and flashing your result tune.
Thank you this helps me in a huge way . I like the idea of being able to tune myself , but I know I need more than what the narrow band does on the pv .
@@ghostdog1874 Well, I can tell you this. More than 90% of our customers just use the tune we provide, run a few basic autotune sessions on it, and achieve a perfectly satisfactory tune, without ever doing a wideband tune or visiting a dyno. However, no question, the better you tune it, the more you get out of your engine kit investment. And the farther you move up the power chain, the more critical the tune becomes too, and therefore more important a wideband tune becomes.
You guys there at Hammer are so 'customer friendly' in the way you treat people - I find that so refreshing. Maybe it is because you are not franchised H-D dealers, but I tend to think that as engineer/riders turned businessmen you actually know what you are talking about ! Too many times at dealers and 'specialists' I have found that my knowledge exceeds that at most of the staff at such places - and I am nothing special ! All they seem to want to do is 'get your bike booked in' so that they can hand you a huge labour charge !
I have a 2018 Iron 883 and I just got done doing Cobra 909s, Cobra cone air intake, and Powervision programmer. Due to Wisconsin weather I haven't been able to take it out. But next winters project will be the 883 to 1275 conversion for sure.
Thanks Guys as always.
Nice Job with Video
Thanks
Really wanna see a vid of the heat cycles and break in
HI Aaron, I have a Macbook Pro laptop. Will the power vision and interface work with it?
if I have searing eagle tune will the original tune still be there?? I got 447 cam I want to take the rev limiter's out. thank you
Hi Arron, I’m one of the guys that had a problem, getting my original tune out to you lol , but we figured it out eventually. Very happy with the 1275 kit thank you . I want to add the auto tune pro kit or the target tune kit from you mabey this winter . Which kit would be the easiest one for me to learn how to use ? I’m not very good with computers but I’ll buy wich ever one is the most user friendly. Thanks again in advance .
First off, if your bike is a 2014+ (CAN bus) then you really have no choice, because they've discontinued the Autotune Pro kit for CAN Bus bikes. They still offer it for the 2007-2013 Sportsters (J1850 bus), but only because of all the pre-2007 Delphi Twin Cams out there that Target Tune won't work on. They keep the J1850 Autotune Pro kit around so those Twin Cams have an autotune solution, and it's the same kit for Twin Cams and Sportsters.
But assuming your bike is a 2007-2013 and you've got a decision to make, well, there's essentially no difference in the user friendliness, the TT functionality is almost entirely transparent to you. With the TT product you just send your tune off to Dynojet to have it "Target Tune enabled", they send it back, you flash it in the normal manner, and presto, you have closed loop wideband.
Be aware that the Target Tune product is a superset of the Autotune Pro product. In other words, TT supports the Autotune Pro function (although they don't call it that), it just adds the closed-loop wideband capability on top of it. In fact, in the TT instructions they advise running some Autotune Pro sessions to get the tune close, so the closed loop trims don't have to move it so far.
So bottom line, if you've got a 2014+ Sportster, you're locked into the TT kit, it's all they offer. If you've got a 2007-2013 Sportster, then the only reason to get the Autotune Pro kit over the Target Tune is to save some money.
Arron thank so much for the detailed response, I’m very sorry I forgot about telling you what year my bike is. It’s a 2016 iron 883 with your 1275 big bore kit and Andrews n4 cams. So it sounds like target tune is the way to go. And I would just send Dynojet A copy of the base tune that you guys sent me originally. I’m guessing target tune is a better investment than an actual dyno tune? Because target tune is always making corrections while the bike is running? I would love to have you guys dyno tune my bike but seeing as I live in CT , it’s not probable lol . In your opinion would target tune be the better option? And thanks again For your reply I absolutely love the big bore kit and your air cleaner that I bought as well phenomenal products in my opinion
@@ghostdog1874 Well, first off, don't send off the base tune we provided. Instead send off your current working version of it, i.e. after any autotune sessions you've run on it.
Second, yes, in my opinion, you're better off to spend your money on Target Tune than a dyno tune. Although the two are not mutually exclusive, you can do them both. But in reality, Autotune/TT does a really good job, at least on the fueling. And it adjusts it continually as you mentioned, which is nice. It does not however mess with anything else.
Now a guy could argue that a skilled dyno tuner can get more out if it because he can adjust more things, in particular the spark advance tables. But I'll tell you what, speaking as your engine kit vendor, I'd really rather the spark advance tables not get touched anyway, because the engine kit has very specific requirements for those tables and doing the wrong thing to them could damage the pistons. A lot of work was put into developing the spark advance tables we provided, and they're proven to deliver max power while being safe for your pistons. They're best left untouched.
Another thing a dyno tuner might tweak on is the target AFR table, but the one we provided you is a good blend of responsiveness and economy. Besides, if you want to tweak on the target AFR table, it's pretty darn simple to do it yourself. Just don't go leaner than stoich (14.6) in the cruise range and leave the high load, high rpm cells set rich, i.e. in the 12.5-13.0 range. Remember, a bigger number is leaner and a smaller number is richer, because it's air to fuel.
HAMMER PERFORMANCE got it and thank you , and thank you again for the the 1275 kit and air cleaner , they are definitely a lot of fun . I’m debating on sending my heads out to you guys at tax return time this season , I’d love the bigger valves , I think it’s the smash level I believe . I’m trying to get the cash together a little at a time , I want a set of your heads and target tune before summer . Fingers crossed
Somethin happened and when i try to flash the original tune back to the bike it says that the original tune is gone... I saved the original tune to desktop and email.... How do I get the original tune back on the power vision?🤔
when you say Auto-tune, is that with the narrow factory bands? Or is it only possible with the wideband add ons which are purchased from dynojet for the power vision?
All Powervisions come with the capability of auto tuning using the factory narrow band sensors as found on 2007+ models. This is called "Auto Tune Basic" and it works reasonably well through the meat of the riding range. It's simple to use, you just tap the screen a few times to enter auto tune mode, ride for a bit while it logs data, and then tap the screen a few more times to build and flash a new tune based on that logged data. More than 90% of our engine kit customers just load up the tune we provide and then perform narrow band auto tune sessions like this and never take their bike to a dyno, and achieve a perfectly satisfactory tune.
Dynojet offers a couple of wide band add-on products for the Powervision as well. One is called "Auto Tune Pro" and integrates wide band sensors into the auto tune process. The process works identically to the narrow band process, except for one step early in the process where you select Auto Tune Pro instead of Auto Tune Basic. Auto Tune Pro does a great job, and it's particularly better than Auto Tune Basic in the high load, high rpm areas of the map. This product also works on pre-2007 models that did not have factory sensors. So it's a great upgrade for those bikes in particular because it brings auto tune capability to them.
This video does a great job of showing how to use Auto Tune Basic and Auto Tune Pro: blogs.dynojet.com/video-advanced-autotune-for-the-power-vision/
The other wide band add-on product is called "Target Tune". It actually reflashes the Powervision with firmware that allows the Powervision to utilize wide band sensors in closed-loop mode. So the Powervision is constantly reading and interpreting the wide band sensors and incorporating the information into it's fueling algorithm.
The Target Tune product also has the capability of performing Auto Tune Pro sessions. So in that respect, it obsoleted the Auto Tune Pro product. However, Target Tune only works on bikes that came from the factory with narrow band sensors, i.e. 2007+ models. So to continue to provide an Auto Tune solution for pre-2007 models, Dynojet still offers the J1850 version of the Auto Tune Pro product (all pre-2007 Delphi equipped HD's were J1850 bus). The CAN bus version of the Auto Tune Pro product was discontinued however, they want you to buy Target Tune for those models.
Does that work with 2010 Buell ecm ?
I do have ecm spy mono and ecm droid
Hi, Aaron
Does this not apply to a 2003 Sportster? Is this just for bikes that you have brought to you, or do you just make adjustments on your computer, after we get it tuned at a shop? I wouldn't even know what I'm supposed to do with the Powervision tuner, or if I need it. I don't know if ya'll have instructions for us to tune our own bikes with it, or if having it tuned at a shop is the best bet, then getting the file from them.
This applies to EFI bikes only. Your bike, being carbureted, uses an ignition module instead. And while many ignition modules are programmable if you purchase an add-on kit to go with it, if you choose your module wisely then there's no need to mess with programming it.
If your motor is otherwise stock, there's really no advantage to changing out the stock ignition. But as you do motor work to raise the power level, the stock ignition in your bike quickly becomes a constraint, due to both it's low rev limiter and a curve that's too aggressive for a higher compression motor with it's faster burn speed. So all high performance projects on carbureted bikes involve a new ignition module.
A 2003 Sportster like yours uses what's called a "nose cone" module, meaning it lives in the nose cone of the cam box cover on the right side of the motor. I would suggest either the Dyna 2000i module or the Twin Tec 1005 module (but NOT one of the EPA compliant EX version 1005's, they have limited curve selections). We mostly put customers into the 2000i module because it's reasonably priced and it's curve 4 is a perfect match for our engine kits and it's a proven reliable unit. We have a separate video that shows how to static time the 2000i and how to set the DIP switches properly for our engine kits.
There's a low-cost nose cone module on the market called the "Ultima" that at first glance appears to be a clone of the Dyna 2000i. The DIP switch functions are all the same and it even works with the same programming kit. But it's built-in curves are different than the 2000i's curves, and none of the Ultima's curves are really suitable for our engine kits. So it's not a module we recommend. To use an Ultima with one of our kits requires purchasing the programming kit to go with it, and by the time you do that, you've spent more than the Dyna 2000i costs.
Can the factory tune be deleted from the power vision?
More videos on using the power vision on multiple bikes would be ideal
I think mine deleted the original tune from the pv1 device??? When i try to calash it back to the original it says it's gone.. I'm tryin to figure out how to get the original tune back on the pv1?
After I load a custom tune is there anyway I can verify that tune has been loaded into my ecm?I try ed to find it on the power vision. But can not see it ? Say "current tune"
The procedure for pulling the "current" tune is the same as shown in the video for pulling the "original" tune, except when you get to that step where you "Load Copy of Original", you instead select "Load Copy of Current". Once you pull the current tune and put it into a slot, you can bring it over the USB cable using WinPV and then examine it and determine if it's what you flashed. But if you did all the steps correctly, it'll be correct.
I noticed you said the PV on holds the 1st bike that you married tune...If the original tune is not in a slot on the PV unit any longer and the touch screen in not responding, but I have the Original (maybe) on my PC...is there a way to "flash" the ecu with it....NOT send it to the PV unit but rather flash like you can do with other tunes from PC to PV to ECM? if not do you know where i can get an original tune for 2017 FXDB
When sending a tune from the PC to the Powervision, there's a check box that causes it to also get flashed to the ECM at the same time.
A check box do what?
When i try to flash original tune back on the bike it says it's not on the pv1🤔 don't know where it went but I'd like to know how to get it back on the power vision from my desk top
Oh and also , do you keep a copy of our original tune on file or do I have to resend a copy of original tune when I upgrade to auto tune pro? Or target tune?
No need to get a new tune from us when upgrading to Autotune Pro or Target Tune. Just use the tune we originally provided for your engine kit, modified with any Autotune Basic sessions you've already run. In other words, just build on what you've got.
In the case of Autotune Pro, you just install the wideband sensors and interface box and do some more autotune sessions on top of the tune you've already got, selecting Autotune Pro when your Powervision prompts you.
In the case of Target Tune, you just install the wideband sensors and interface box, send the tune off to Dynojet, they enable Target Tune and send it back, you flash it, and then run a few Autotune Pro sessions on top of it, selecting Target Tune kit when it prompts you. TT functionality will happen automatically after exporting your learned values and disabling autotune and flashing your result tune.
Thank you this helps me in a huge way . I like the idea of being able to tune myself , but I know I need more than what the narrow band does on the pv .
@@ghostdog1874 Well, I can tell you this. More than 90% of our customers just use the tune we provide, run a few basic autotune sessions on it, and achieve a perfectly satisfactory tune, without ever doing a wideband tune or visiting a dyno. However, no question, the better you tune it, the more you get out of your engine kit investment. And the farther you move up the power chain, the more critical the tune becomes too, and therefore more important a wideband tune becomes.
What is the bike in the background infront of the v rod?
Dan's 1998 Buell S1W
How do i contact you?
www.hammerperf.com/contactus.shtml