RTM Mould - Creating Carbon Fiber Parts (PART4/4)
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- čas přidán 8. 01. 2022
- Hi everyone!
Welcome to this new series of videos (4 In total)
All about making an RTM mould to produce composite parts in a fast way.
Through these adventures I'll take you to the final result of making an RTM Fiberglass mould and making parts out of it.
RTM moulding is something I haven't done yet and always wanted to try one day. The big advantages of RTM moulding is that you get a good surface on both sides of the parts. It also makes it possible to produce parts in a faster way, due to the fact that you don't need to apply any vacuum supply and bags. Another advantage is a reduction of waste that is created using the regular technique of VARTM resin infusion.
If you want to watch my first video again (cringe):
www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tosb...
If you want to watch the video where commented on my first video:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QU5t7...
The video series is separated in 4 Parts:
1. Finishing the master with Pattern Coat from @Easy Composites Ltd and getting it mould ready: • RTM Mould - Finish Par...
2. Creating the base-mould out of uni-mould tooling resin and solving some issues I had with the mould: • RTM Mould - Making the...
3. Creating The fiberglass RTM topmould by first making a carbonfiber part out of the basemould: • RTM Mould - Creating N...
4. Creating parts with the RTM mould: • RTM Mould - Creating C...
*In Previous video's:
Back in the days (more than 7 years ago I started working with composites) At school we had a sample mould and so decided to use it to make my first steps into composites and resin infusion VARTM. Back then I was way less experienced and watching that video over again, I saw a lot of room for improvement. This is why I decided to redo this video but taking everything next level to challenge myself a bit.
I'll take you through the steps of using one of the parts (fiberglass and polyester resin) I've made back then and get everyting ready for making a new mould. First step is removing any paint that I've put back then on the part (It was a 1K rattle spraycan paint) that might cause any problems with the gelcoat. Sanding the part also made sure that any residue like dust, oil, silicones, glue was removed from the part so we could start fresh.
The mould was made using the uni-mould tooling system from Easycomposites. first a gelcoat is applied, then coupling coat with CSM chopped strand mat fiberglass, followed by the polyester tooling resin witch CSM as well. Where needed some repairs were made and finished to a high gloss
Easy lease (chemical release agent) from easy composites was used to have a good release at the end. We'll make a negative pressure mould. This will replace the usual vacuumsupply normally used in a VARTM resin infusion system. by this we save in materials (peelply, infusionmesh, vacuumbag) but more importantly we save time producing parts.
First step would be to make a first part that will define the thickness future parts will be. I decided to make a first dummy part using resin infusion with carbonfiber 2x 650g/m² twill weave. Normal procedure of a resin infusion is used. The part is infused with infusion epoxy resin (IN2) Once the part is demoulded the back of the part is finished as well using the polyester pattern coat again.
Once the part is finished it is put back in the mould and a resin channel is created by using some modeling wax. This wax sheets can be bought in different thicknesses. I picked a 1mm thickness.
A regular polyester gelcoat is applied with a spraygun followed by adding fiberglass and general purpose polyester resin with MEKP hardener. Build up a nice thickness with the chopped fiberglass mat and theresin. Do this in a few different coats with letting it fully cure inbetween. Adding to many layers in one go might complicate the process and make your resin go in an exothermal stage causing shrinkage and warping. Air channels are added around the perimeter to create the clamping pressure. Other resin in and resin out channels will have the purpose of infusing the part in a later stage. Once all done we are ready to make our first parts in the next tutorial.
In this video:
The moulds are prepared for use by using Easy Lease, ensuring a good release. Carbon Fiber is cut to be fitted in the mould. 2 layers of 650g sqm Twill weave carbonfiber is used here. Before closing the mould halves I've added some silicone adhesive to the vacuum profiles to ensure a good seal. The idea was that it would stick to the silicone profiles but not to the mould as there was release agent applied there. Oh boy was I wrong as you can see later in the video.
For all products used, check www.easycomposites.co.uk
they now also have a .eu website for european customers!
For more of my projects
Make sure to follow me on:
Facebook: / mat2composites
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twitter: @matthieutje65
web: www.mat2composites.com
#Mould #Easycomposites #Carbonfiber - Jak na to + styl
Another great video. It is helpful to see you work though the challenges. Looking forward to seeing an improved sealing process.
Thanks! It has some challenges indeed, learning it all along the way of making these video's as well :D more will follow!
Thanks for making this series of videos. I look forward to whatever is next 👍
Thanks for watching! More will follow indeed till I get it all right! I'll also be able to give answer to all the questions form the comment sections of the 4 video's. I'm already on a good way and now it's just the finetuning that has to be done
This turned out great!
Nice work Matt, part looks excellent
Thanks 👍 part looks good indeed, thats what I'm most happy about. The technique is proven to work, it's just a bit more fine-tuning on the moulds at the moment, but that will be for a future video :D
Excellent job.
Thank you very much!
Wonderful series
Thanks! Glad you like it!
Awesome finish. I love it. Keep up the good work. Watching your work from mexico.
Thank you so much 😀 glad to hear you like the video's
Great job!
ouh man you did a very good job... perfect final product
Thank you! Glad you liked it!
amazing result, such professional process without any sophisticated tools... (just half of chemical lab but that's a laminating video after all :D)
Fantastic! Is there some sort of "spring void" @ flanges, around part to allow for some press down of part? Is that part of the air channel?
Waiting for that. My next mouldbuilding follow this way
Great! Just a bit of tweeking to be done on the vacuumseal, but should be a quick easy fix!
Video et chaîne très intéressante. Je fais de la fibre depuis quelques années et je n'ai pas encore osé tenter la fibre. Le prix des fournitures est important et il vaut mieux éviter les ratés et avoir des clients motivés pour le surcoût fibre. Avec vos pièces vraiment très belles ça donne envie d'essayer.
Chouette à entendre ! Content d'entendre que tu aimes mes vidéos ! Bonne chance
Great video brother.. iam wondered seeing infusion through the fibre with out Infusion mesh.. once I tried and it was a failure.. have to try this method.. thanks for explaining all the details bro..❤️👍
I tried it as well a long time ago! It won't work indeed, you'll lose all vacuumpressure and end up with alot of resin piling up and not making its way trough 😌
Looks really good. These look to be very high end R/C bodies. Just need to add some wheel openings.
Haha true 😉
Nice video. I wonder if you positioning the resin outlet at the edge like resin inlet position, will the resin successfully cover all over the part?. Because in my opinion the resin will travel much easier and faster to cover all over the area if you put the inlet edge to edge.
Matthieu i suggest you to try the '' Zip seal'n peel'' from Mulco to create the outer seal. I'm confident will work and peel off without damage.
Very informative! Thanks for sharing.
But I have a question:
What's the benefit of the RTM? Only that you don't need the vakkum bagging? The work for the mould is so crazy
It has a much faster production cycle, If all parameters are set up well you could make a good amount of parts a day. It's also a bit more environmental friendly having less vacuum supply waste and more economical when producing higher volumes. The inner and outer good finish, has some added benefits as well if you want to produce parts that have to fit into each other for example.
Is there a weight difference between the infused product and the rtm method?
Nice series about RTM! Where did you get that clamp you're using to stick the hose in the mixing cup (around 5:07)?
I got them from a composite expo, Will probably share more info about them soon ;)
Hi Matthieu this is my first time commenting but I have seen a lot of your videos and I want to tell you that I really admire what you do and how you do it.
I am doing infusion with reusable silicone membranes to make my parts and I would be interested to switch to RTM method (silicone is driving me crazy), there is one difference that I noticed more than the others: the inlet tube is on the flange while the outlet tube is on the center of the piece. Is this a rule in the RTM? Because I'm used to doing exactly the opposite with silicone bags.
Thank you very much for your videos!
Marco
No, depends on part geometry, having an inlet running all the way around the part will have a faster infusion than from one point in the middle
@@MatthieuLibeert Thank you very much Matthieu
great series, very informative! What are you gonna do with all these porsche carbon shapes ? :)
Thanks! Do some various tests of resin a'd fibers a'd various types of experimental paints to see what work ans doesn't, and in the long run I'll have a nice collection to hang on the wall I hope 😁
@@MatthieuLibeert nice, very elaborated test. Let us know when you run out of space to hang them ;)
Bonsoir Matthieu elle est superbe ta pièce!!! pour faire de la série, c'est super ton moule👍.les vidéos en français c'est possible pour les cousins 🤣🤣
Merci ! Haha bientôt ! Déjà un programme assez chargé avec 2 vidéos/semaine les derniers temps 😜 mais ça viendra !
@@MatthieuLibeert you speak french too? I’m french but never sent a french message haha
i was thinking rather than using silicon adhesives you can use a small-diameter silicone hose or even make a strip of silicon rubber yourself and put it in the place you applied silicon adhesive i hope you get what i mean and it makes sense
Hey Matt, I was wondering would there be a difference in the process if the part had vertical walls? Would you need to ensure that the molds have a bit of flex to them so that vacuum can be applied evenly across a wide range of angles?
It's always better to have a bit of a draft on your edges but straight edjes work as well... But it makes it a bit harder to remove the part... Having a flexible mould is never a good idea as under vacuum before resin it might warp your mould making it even harder to remove the part
@@MatthieuLibeert I probably could have worded it better, but I meant flexible on one side, so that it can press onto the surface of the part, while the other holds the shape. Thanks for the reply though! :)
Hey Mathieu,
Wat gebruik je om het Carbon te snijden?
Do you got less pinholes when you polish the moulds?
Shouldn't make a difference, pinholes are mostly caused by the resins and the fibers not the mould
Красавчик
thanks i guess :p
Hey! Nice video. About your sticky silicone problem. Why do you use it in the first place? You already have gaskets even if it's not the best kind to use fir your application. The best is to use different type of gasket for the inside and the outside. If you want to improve your mold in that regard some solutions could be discussed if you need.
Cheers!
The gaskets still had some micro leaks and wanted to avoid at all cost that all resin would go into the vacuum perimeter that seals the mould, so the idea was to add some silicone that would then comform to the lower mould surface and would then be fixed to the upper gasket and mould but not to the lower mould... Looking for better specific gaskets now to avoid all of this and have a perfect seal in one go
@@MatthieuLibeert One of the sheapest way to have good seals is to use silicone tubing in 10 or 12 mm diameter minimum. The softer the better. You might want to have two row of them each time (it's not mandatory at all), but you must left enought space between them to deform. The assembly is way easier by placing a small piece of a smaller soft tube at the jonction with silicone adhesiv. An other solution is to use neopren leap gasket but it's for the outside only. Anyway your main mistake, as I see it, is to have cut your gasket in the corners, you might have large radius in corners and a gasket in one piece.
Matthieu, als ik het goed begrijp doe je dit alleen maar om de buitenkant strak te hebben MAAR ook de binnenkant. Gewoon vaqum trekken gaat ook maar dan heb je geen afgewerkte binnenkant. Of wat is de opzet van alles?
Goede binnen en buitenafwerking, minder afval aan vacuumzakken, peelply, infusion mesh. Goedkoper hierdoor en minder milieubelastend. Alsook kan je de opbouw van een stuk als deze in minder dan 5min doen en meteen Infuseren... Als je alle parameters goed afsteld kan je een 10 tal stukken per dag maken
No pinholes?? Great job! Did you degas the resin before?
The resin was quickly degssed yes! No pinholes on the part
@@MatthieuLibeert did you use 2 levels of vacuum? Usually flange are at full vacuum and the infusion is with less vacuum. Very nice rtml, it seems without pinholes
@@ANDREA9.81 no not here, I have a vacuumregulator that I can add on the pump, but was to lazy to get it out, just wanted to start raw on every settings then plan to fine-tune it, might indeed be something that can make some improvements
Anyway I can buy a Porsche shell what size / scale is that
Als je de buitenkant van de mal sterker maakt en vastbout, kun je de bak met epoxy onder druk zetten met perslucht.
Met +1 bar achter het epoxy reservoir gaat het er een stuk makkelijker doorheen. :-)
Met alleen vacuum krijg ik het er niet doorheen wanneer ik mijn mallen met weefsel gesloten heb.
What is the cons of using RTM? Besides the extra mold prep
Not many
Please make a list or a draw from the flunsh to see what you used in detail
I'll put everything in the nex video probably
For carbon fiber products, this method is only suitable for making products with smaller sizes. This method is used more in fiberglass products.