3D Printed Moulds To Make Carbon Fiber Epoxy Resin Tubes - How to Tutorial
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- čas přidán 16. 03. 2022
- Is it possible to use 3D printed moulds to make Carbon Fiber parts? In this video I go through the steps of making 3D printed moulds using Power PLA from additive heroes to make 3D printed moulds ready to make Carbon Fiber tubes.
I’ve used my Creality Ender 3S1 to create the moulds. Power PLA was used as these have the characteristics of ABS which are, to my opinion, closer to what I need without having to print with ABS. PETG would be suitable as well, but wasn’t at my disposal while making this video.
Link to video’s mentioned in this tutorial:
Lithophane 3D print: • Charizard Pokemon Card...
Review Creality Ender 3S1: • Creality Ender 3 S1 - ...
Once printed, I’ve added some bolts and nuts to have a threaded insert that could be used later on. The bolts were coated with some spraycan mould release to ensure a good release of the bolts later on. The nuts weren’t coated to assure a good bond with the TC80 epoxy that will be poured later on.
In this video I’ve used some VAC Cast aluminium filled epoxy resin from @Easycomposites. They now have changed the name to TC80, now Tool Cast resin (Link below to product). Some of the advantages of using this epoxy filled resin is that it has low shrink, higher temp resistance TG, can be poured in bigger volumes.
1.2 Kg was used here for the two mould halves. Keep in mind that this resin has a higher density than water, while calculating the volume you have to add more resin. More information can be found on following product link: www.easycomposites.co.uk/tool...
After Casting the resin was left to cure for over 24h before having it’s postcure into the oven. You slowly ramp up the temperature till desired temperatures.
The Silicone intensifier was made using some platinum silicone. A 3D printed mould was used to cast the silicone in. For best results I’ve used spiralize/vase/vaze mode in cura. This way you have a continuous print without seams. Some of the advantages of using an intensifier is that it will expand under heat, creating pressure. It will also leave a good finish on the inside of your part. This means you’ll have controllable thicknesses. An aluminium rod was added to be able to remove the silicone mandrel after the epoxy carbon fiber braided sleeve has cured.
To make the tubes I’ve used a carbon fiber braided sleeve with an average diameter of 40mm (link below to product) I’ve folded the edges on the inside so they have a good finish to start with. You could also cut the carbon fiber strands. Some EL2 (Epoxy laminating resin) was mixed using the fast hardener from Easy Composites. Make Sure to mix well. A small amount is only needed and was applied to the carbon fiber sleeve and a bit to the mould that was pre-coated with some chemical release agent to ensure a good demoulding after cure. The epoxy was applied using a brush.
The Two 3D printed moulds were closed with the carbon fiber braided sleeve and silicone mandrel/intensifier in the 3D printed mouldhalves. That way some pressure is created to create a good surface finish. After the the aluminium rod is inserted using some Vaseline as a lubricant. This aluminium rod will create some more pressure and stability of the Silicone mandrel.
After an oven cure of 6 Hours the 3D printed moulds were removed from the oven and let cooled down. The mould halves were released and the silicone mandrel was removed. Leaving a nice carbon fiber tube. Downside was that when using one layer, some airpockets appeared meaning there was not enough pressure. Two solutions here: increase the diameter of the silicone mandrel/intensifier or add more layers. In this case it was easier to add 2 Layers, creating more wall thickness and thus more pressure. The Results were beter.
In the next tutorial I’ll go through more details on how to finish a carbon fiber part with defects!
Link to to Power PLA from additive heroes: www.3dprinthings.be/materiale...
Link to carbonfiber braided sleeve: www.easycomposites.co.uk/40mm...
Facebook: / mat2composites
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web/mail: www.mat2composites.com
#3DPrint #Carbonfiber #Mould - Jak na to + styl
Excellent video! I have created a ton of carbon parts from 3d printed moulds and I still learnt a bunch from this - very interesting!!
Wow your techniques and video tutorials are really amazing in demonstrating these advanced yet achievable techniques. Thank you!
Thank you for your great comment! Makes my day 😉
Thank you for a nicely presented DIY video. I did learn a few things that will help me in the future!
Awesome video! This technique will come in handy for my next project. Built from scratch carbon fiber bike frame.
Awesome technique. Thanks for sharing it 👍
Thanks glad to read you liked it!
Some interesting ideas in that. Thanks. I'll upload a new video on a wingfoil build with a 3d printed core soon as well. Printing and carbon fits so well. Keep it up
Thanks! Correct it's a good match!
This is awesome! And for once, a tutorial that's not just a repeat of easy composites tutorials! Very smart use of silicone, me likey! What are you going to use those tubes for?
Thank you so much for this video. This is the first time I've seen using a hollow silicone plug to apply pressure during heating.
This is the perfect solution for a project I'm working on and I've been trying to figure out a good way to make repeatable results, as I have to make multiples of the same part for the project.
This process is very typical in carbon bicycle manufacturing. often are either latex or silicone bladders that either expand under vacuum or are pumped to a specific pressure or both.
Glad it was helpful!
correct, but like you say they mould mainly use thin walled bladders as it would be hard to remove full silicone cores from a bike frame :D
Wonderfully entertaining video to watch. Not sure why CZcams suggested it but glad they did. Thanks for sharing
That's awesome! Thanks for the great comment
Very ingenious ideas to do this with limited equipment. Thank you.
Glas you liked it! Thanks for your comment
Excellent work, very impressive. You might find Argonaut Cycles interesting. They also use Silicon Mandrels. I like how you have used resin to reinforce the mould.👌
Very inspiring and informative video! Thanks a lot for sharing this process, very cool low budget hollow parts :)
I would suggest to apply a quick vacuum on the hollow part of the silikone, maybe that makes removal easier
Glad you liked it! Correct could work!
Another great one.
Thank you for commenting on each of my video's! Appreciated!
Thanks, a great video.
Awesome. Thank you!
eindelijk...ik zie dat je terug video's aan het maken bent...toppie👍
Haha zeker en vast! Straks nog een nieuwe video ;)
Great skills... Amazing job... Congrats
Thank you! Cheers!
Never saw a best suggestion from CZcams, I watch while I work on my exams! Thank you!
Glad you liked it! Good luck with your exams
@@MatthieuLibeert thank you man! I will come back to you in some month when I will use this tutorial on my videos (not on this Channel haha) and obviously I will enjoy to mention your name ;) that’s for a specific project you will like I’m suuuure!
@@dorianvincent2101 awesome !
Interesting method.
would there be any benefit in putting some sort of controllable heating element in the Aluminium tube to maybe heat the core more and increase expansion/compression from the inside out?
Amazing... Thank you for using professional language too (registration keys, intensifier etc), it's useful to know if you want to get into some discussions about some project with other professionals:)
I recently made a silicone intensifier for a 3D printed mold, and the intensifier ended up stuck in the mold, due to my lack of experience in the design and application. It was refreshing to see your experience at work. I'm also envious of your workshop! I'm currently working in a very tiny space.
What mold release do you use?
Nice job 👌
Thanks 😁
Great to see another committed crafter Mathieu. Interesting seeing your aluminium fill strengthening. I've been printing for wing-foiling, from this year I print the wing model, extend a membrane of tape from the edges and after applying mould release I resin infuse two sides of shell moulds in one go. I only use around 4 layers of thick glass composites per side so there is some flexibility for my big wing moulds. After cleaning up surfaces and mould release again I lay carbon and epoxy into my moulds and clamp all around the edges after fixing locator screws. Amazing results, I'm finding laying impregnated chopped carbon around any sharp edges helps to exclude the sharp bends that otherwise encourage bubbles. Because from this year I'm doing relatively thin, high performance hydrofoils there's very little low density core material in them, but your point about thermal expansion is interesting, It must account for a part of the resin leakage I get as my parts exotherm cure and the cores out-gas, pushing resin to the perimeter. I did some wings with 3D printed cores 2020, 2021, printing with double thickness infill walls in cubic is the ideal but the thickness of the laminate makes design accuracy hard to achieve and gives inferior leading edge strength on the flat composite fibers bond surface, even with resin infusion.
Thanks for your comment! sounds good what you are doing! I have resin infusion on printed mould on the planning as well for tutorials later on when I find the time :D
@@MatthieuLibeert I have been doing 3D printing 11 years now. I subtract shear planes and dowel holes from my wing designs and print them leading edge down into supports now after splitting the meshes in prussaslicer and rotating them for nearest orientation to build plate. I am close to finishing my 6'th mould this year. but I've also done a little bit of carbon forging, foundry, software, hardware design, and RC jetboat jet unit design, maths art vases. Fluidity on thingiverse and pin shape though I only put the beginner models on those.
It's an interesting idea to use the natural expansion of the silicone. I was expecting you to inflate it with compressed air like a bladder. Does the final part have a purpose, or is it just a proof of concept for this mold system?
Inflating bladders is another topic I might cover later on! The part has no purpose, mainly educational shape for these videos :)
fascinating video Matthieu Libeert. I killed that thumbs up on your video. Keep on up the quality work.
Thank you! Awesome!
@@MatthieuLibeert No problem at all. Always happy to support my fellow content creators. I am looking forward to improving on my own current video format I have uploaded and, in the future, trying to create content as good as yours in the long term.
very helpful tutorials! if someone wanted to do this with chopped carbon instead of a woven sleeve how would you ensure even thickness?
Thank you. You gave me the idea that for more complex shapes, you can inflate silicone with air.
Correct! you could make a bladder in silicone or latex for that
great video! What is your preferred release agent on the mold halves?
Very cool
Thanks!
Love this technique. Very diy friendly too.
Any idea on how you might use the same method on a bent shape?
Perhaps larger diameter tube down the centre and maybe an inflatable bladder down the middle that can be pressurised?
A bent wouldnt make a big difference you should still be able to remove it like here
Excellent work ..... I have one question, Why were you using a side plate to hold the Molds together? Can we use a feature in the moulds itself to hold them together like some loaded fasteners using spring washers or something? I understand the side plate will be needed anyway ..but the method which I am proposing can give better results, right?
what was the PLA you used - just getting into 3D printing and like the PLA results, over PET G, but might need to try a more robust filament at some point.....cool presentation as usual Mat2
1) loved it!
2) to what temperature is the oven set? are you not worried about the plastic mold warping from the hi heat?
3) what material did you use to polish the pla?
1) Thanks :D
2) Temp up to 80°C so far for the mould, parts were cured at 40°C with the resin. Warping is prevented by the Casting resin.
3) NW1 Super Cutting Compound Black, Bought on Easycomposites
Very cool technique, I just imagine with letters or logo embossed on surface!
would be a nice added feature indeed ;) might do in a future video!
Fantastic video, I've been working on a similar problem for a while and the silicone intensifier makes so much sense.
For the Tool Cast resin do you think this could be substituted with say concrete? Sadly I'm on the other side of the world to Easy Composites and our local stores don't seem to have an equivalent (best I can find is casting resin for epoxy river tables).
might work with other materials, so concrete might work but not ideal...you might experiment with filling regular epoxy with fillers as well to prefill your resin yourself
Thanks for uploading this great content 👍🏽
I've also tried 3D printed PLA Moulds but had some issues with demolding.
I've tried the PVA and Chemical release but everything wasn't perfect.
Do you have trouble with that?
It's OK for small runs, but wouldn't use this technique for bigger series as these moulds tend to suffer... The chemical release was ok so far here! Pva would be a bit less reliable I think personally
@@MatthieuLibeert thanks for your feedback
When first making the resin molds(around 2:10) is it necessary, or recommended, to let the part set in a vacuum chamber for added strength and/or stability???
I’ve had terrible luck at work when certain subcontractors get lazy/cheap, and deliver parts with a lot of dissolved air (& moisture?) in the cast parts.
I looked through the comments and didn't see this, So I'll ask:
Do you have any deformation from baking the 3d print after filling with epoxy? obviously the epoxy strengthens it, but do you get surface variations?
Hello Matthieu, thank you soo much for your videos, sorry for my english, I've a question: in this case that isn't prepreg how you manage the excess resin ? I supposed that you put a peelply and breather between silicone form and carbon fiber, instead you put nothing. The resin goes away from the open passages ?
No peelply, just need to add the right amount of resin, not too much and not to little, the pressure of the core will push out some excess resin if needed, the rest stays in the Carbonfiber
Great 😊 I'm ready to use it to make a motorcycle muffler
Great video 👍🏽. What is the brand/model of your oven? I am looking a bigger oven for my projects.
The oven is a composites curing oven from easy composites. You should be able to find it on their website.
Great work, followed on Instagram too.
Awesome thanks :D Will see you in the comments as well on instagram then :D
Hello, nice work. 👍 Can you tell me which software you use to design the mold? It would be nice to do a design workflow video too. Thanks.
I draw everything in fusion 360
I’m surprised the PLA doesn’t warp in the curing oven, is the Power PLA more heat resistant?
Thank you
You're welcome
what is the filement did you use. Is PLA posible for a fiberglass mould
Hello there! For how long time did you leave it in the oven?
The pla melts at 180c what temperature was your curing oven set to ?
Nice video, do you put mold release on the silicone ?
No, In general it's not adviced to apply release agent (specialy not the chemical release agent) on silicone as it might deteriorate or harm the releasing properties of the silicone, now and then you can apply silicone oil to restore your silicone.
what program did you use to make the mold ?
You said vaseline on a shaft. Seriously, so many great ideas in one succinct video!
Haha I said that indeed 😁
Hei man, amazing job, where I can find that kind of silicon? thanks a lot!
Hi, Thank you! I've bought it on a dutch website called "polyestershoppen.nl" you might find something similar closer to you, look for a "shore 15 platinum cure or additional cure silicone"
Geweldig idee Matt met het alu buisje in het midden. Als je het uit trek is er veel druk meg van de silicone. Vraagje, heb je dit gewoon gedaan als test of dient dat buisje ergens voor???
Thanks! dit is gewoon een teststuk voor deze video :)
wouldt it be easier with a balloon instead for inside pressure?
the pla doesn't melt when you put the mold into the oven for post curing? how high of a temperature are you setting it at
120degrees at max temp
Turned out awesome but what is it going to be used for?
just for educational purpose :)
Hehehehe... Vaseline... I'm gonna say it. I'M GONNA SAY IT!!
Vaseline is in fact a very interesting and versatile substance for uses outside of it's intended purpose. It is an excellent lubricant for more volatile plastics.
Really cool idea to make them from 3d printing, but why not just cnc machine them out of aluminum? Seems way quicker and simpler to me?
I understand that the glass transition temperature of PLA is around 60°C. What temperature did you use to cure the epoxy mould infill and then the carbon laminate?
It can now withstand up to 80c...the casting resin now functions as a support for the pla, making it possible for higher temperatures. Might even reach higher temps, I'll do some more research on that...
@@MatthieuLibeert Thank you. I missed the brand of filament. Can you tell me what it is?
@@donr62 there's a link in the description 😉
@@MatthieuLibeert I’m sorry but I can’t see it. Would you mind pointing it out please?
@@donr62 it's called 'additive heroes power PLA' from 3dprinthings.be other brands call it PLA+ mostly
Can you make a knife handle with this method?
Do you think it would be possible, to make the outer mould pieces and the inner core out of milled aluminium. Since Aluminium got quite a high thermal expansion it should also get some pressure on the carbon fibre. Of course it depends on the size of the inner core. The more volume the greater the expansion. Never saw this with the silicone but very clever idea. Keep up the good work.
Outer mould is normally made out of aluminium but 3d printing is more affordable, that's why it's a 3d printed mould here for this video, but for larger runs I would normally use an aluminium mould... Care should be taken with an aluminium inner mould to make sure you can still remove it after cure
@@MatthieuLibeert Yeah a stiff inner core is only possible if you got an draft angle,no corners and no undercuts. Also a good plus on flexible silicone
@@renny_composites correct!
In my old company we made the mclaren monoque. It is rtm and have used airballons instead of bag or silicone. High pressure inside. Do you know that System?
You’ll need really strong moulds for this process. I haven’t seen anyone do it with moulds that aren’t metal, because your basically pushing the two mould halves apart. I’m currently looking into making a hollow composite part (similar to the one in this video) using the rtm technique and printed moulds, but instead of balloons i’m going to use a soluble 3d printed core.
This was what I was expecting as well - inflated by either air or fluid.
@@sanderhuybrechts Yeah above all you need High pressure resin, vacuum in the mould enclosure and high pressure in the air ballons... that's another deal
@@Jpifr I’ve seen it done using sort of paint pressure chamber with an injection pressure around 3bar, although slow it’s possible. Do you think moulds like the one in this video will be able to hold up at this pressure?
@@sanderhuybrechts I have no Idea, maybe...
# 2👍🏻!! 💪🏻💪🏻
Your fast!!! 😁🔥
@@MatthieuLibeert, you have great content that is relevant to me and some of the guys I work with and for. Keep up the great work! 😎💪🏻
Like grate video Like allot of Like knowledge Like is Like contained in it Like..... :D sirius now grate job thank you so much i will use this knowledge in next project .
Haha I see what you did there :p Thanks!
@@MatthieuLibeert Im really sorry to impose Like this it take me allot ow will power to ignore things Like this and not throw computer out the window. I might need to get checked...:D
PS. Your work is breath taking i can only hope that one day i will be able do anything remotely comparable to your work... Thank You...
That Silicone could be replaced by TPU?
Hmmm interesting! Might be something to try! Could work
I thought about it! Good question haha
What's that think you're making anyway?
It's just a demo piece here to prove the concept
What is this used for?
no particular use, it's just to demonstrate the technique
I want to make some control stick handles for my airplane. This process should work awesome. Would you be interested in working with me?
sounds like a complex project :) As much as I would like to work with you, unfortunately I don't have time for more side projects :D
Hmmm that motip clear isn't that good I did my car with that in beginning I was glossy and nice after a year it started cracking and yellowing
True! Will be mentioned in the video coming online later today. I wouldn't paint a car with that, would mainly go for a 2K then. But wanted to keep it DIY without scaring people that they would need a spraygun. Will do a seperate video on that topic later
wow. great video. Thanks. Suggestion: don't use "like" in about every sentence.
Thanks! It's hard when English isn't your native language 😉
don't worry. A lot of natives do exactly the same 🙂
Make a tennis racket
You should have split the mode diagonally.
Could have, but might cause problems with the filling of the aluminium epoxy as it would have different mass on different spots
I use concrete for filling up the mold, much cheap than resin.
concrete should work as well, but would be a bit afraid on shrinkage, moist and strenght with higher temperatures
HAHA VASELINE!
nice video , but please stop saying "like"
I am sorry I think I have a burning stupid question to ask. Complete newbie. How does the wet carbon have room to be put into a mold? You did not remove any material from the silicone core or the plastic mold after you had made the silicone core. I understand the carbon is a few millimeters thick but still wouldn't that prevent the mold from being put back together? Also, loved the video it has just opened my eyes to a whole new world of carbon parts making. Thank you very much.
Very cool
Thank you!