RTM Mould - Creating Negative Fiberglass Pressure Mould (PART3/4)
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- čas přidán 1. 01. 2022
- Hi everyone!
Welcome to this new series of videos (4 In total)
All about making an RTM mould to produce composite parts in a fast way.
Through these adventures I'll take you to the final result of making an RTM Fiberglass mould and making parts out of it.
RTM moulding is something I haven't done yet and always wanted to try one day. The big advantages of RTM moulding is that you get a good surface on both sides of the parts. It also makes it possible to produce parts in a faster way, due to the fact that you don't need to apply any vacuum supply and bags. Another advantage is a reduction of waste that is created using the regular technique of VARTM resin infusion.
If you want to watch my first video again (cringe):
www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tosb...
If you want to watch the video where commented on my first video:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=QU5t7...
The video series is separated in 4 Parts:
The video series is separated in 4 Parts:
1. Finishing the master with Pattern Coat from @Easy Composites Ltd and getting it mould ready: • RTM Mould - Finish Par...
2. Creating the base-mould out of uni-mould tooling resin and solving some issues I had with the mould: • RTM Mould - Making the...
3. Creating The fiberglass RTM topmould by first making a carbonfiber part out of the basemould: • RTM Mould - Creating N...
4. Creating parts with the RTM mould: • RTM Mould - Creating C...
*In Previous video's:
Back in the days (more than 7 years ago I started working with composites) At school we had a sample mould and so decided to use it to make my first steps into composites and resin infusion VARTM. Back then I was way less experienced and watching that video over again, I saw a lot of room for improvement. This is why I decided to redo this video but taking everything next level to challenge myself a bit.
I'll take you through the steps of using one of the parts (fiberglass and polyester resin) I've made back then and get everyting ready for making a new mould. First step is removing any paint that I've put back then on the part (It was a 1K rattle spraycan paint) that might cause any problems with the gelcoat. Sanding the part also made sure that any residue like dust, oil, silicones, glue was removed from the part so we could start fresh.
The mould was made using the uni-mould tooling system from Easycomposites. first a gelcoat is applied, then coupling coat with CSM chopped strand mat fiberglass, followed by the polyester tooling resin witch CSM as well. Where needed some repairs were made and finished to a high gloss
*In this video:
Easy lease (chemical release agent) from easy composites was used to have a good release at the end. We'll make a negative pressure mould. This will replace the usual vacuumsupply normally used in a VARTM resin infusion system. by this we save in materials (peelply, infusionmesh, vacuumbag) but more importantly we save time producing parts.
First step would be to make a first part that will define the thickness future parts will be. I decided to make a first dummy part using resin infusion with carbonfiber 2x 650g/m² twill weave. Normal procedure of a resin infusion is used. The part is infused with infusion epoxy resin (IN2) Once the part is demoulded the back of the part is finished as well using the polyester pattern coat again.
Once the part is finished it is put back in the mould and a resin channel is created by using some modeling wax. This wax sheets can be bought in different thicknesses. I picked a 1mm thickness.
A regular polyester gelcoat is applied with a spraygun followed by adding fiberglass and general purpose polyester resin with MEKP hardener. Build up a nice thickness with the chopped fiberglass mat and theresin. Do this in a few different coats with letting it fully cure inbetween. Adding to many layers in one go might complicate the process and make your resin go in an exothermal stage causing shrinkage and warping. Air channels are added around the perimeter to create the clamping pressure. Other resin in and resin out channels will have the purpose of infusing the part in a later stage. Once all done we are ready to make our first parts in the next tutorial.
For all products used, check www.easycomposites.co.uk
they now also have a .eu website for european customers!
For more of my projects
Make sure to follow me on:
Facebook: / mat2composites
Instagram: matthieu.libeert
twitter: @matthieutje65
web: www.mat2composites.com
#Mould #Easycomposites #Carbonfiber - Jak na to + styl
A lot of detail in this video - I think I will have to watch the whole series again in one sitting so I can fully understand it. Great videos, thank you for taking the time to make them.
correct! it's a packed video indeed. feel free to watch again :D if you have more questions feel free to ask!
Loving this series. Looking forward to the final installment.
Amazing content. You have travel a long way over the years. Constantly improving your skillset, knowledge base, content and character. Impressive young man
Thanks for the kind word! indeed nice to keep improving every day and learning more and more every day!
C'est vraiment beaucoup de travail un moule avec ce système matthieu...j'ai hâte de voir la suite 😄👍
en effet, le moulage prend une grande partie dans la fabrication des pieces, mais une fois fait, les pieces suivronts :D a la prochaine video ;)
this is so amazing! :) thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
Love the content and love your approach. Got a bit lost on this one with regards to the wax sheets and the purpose, but I followed well. Appreciate you making this!
thank you! it is indeed a matter of context...I try to make the video's in seperate part to make it more accessible. the wax sheet is used to make a resin channel...might get more clear in the next video, if not, I'll adress your question in a follow up video ;)
Thank you very much, this is the priceless information!
Top work mate, these videos are so cool and very helpful, I've also struggled with the wax strip, I think last time I used a hot air gun to soften it to remove, then I used isopropyl alcohol to clean the wax and glue off, it may work for you. Keep the content coming mate I'm not alone when I say we love them
glad to hear you like my video's! hot gun helps, as well as solvent...next time I might to try to apply a coat of pattern coat, with release agent, then peel of the entire sheet. more content is coming, stay tuned ;)
Great job. Thanks for the video.
Thanks! hope to find you back in the comment section in the next video ;)
Great quality again
thanks a lot! your comments on my video's are highly appreciated ;)
nice one again sir also about your last video that thing you said about silicon only sticking to silicon gave me an idea to lower the material cost on silicon molds and also i tested it and it worked very well and it is holding the cured silicon wastes and shred them into small pieces and mix them with silicon it can produces the same mold with the same quality with much less materials and definitely less cost
It is indeed a common trick to add of cuts of old moulds into new silicone moulds, as long as your waste parts are clean and from the same type of silicone you shouldn't have to much problems
I'm quite late to the party but regarding on how to clean the wax sheet residue from the polyester part. Simply wash with wax degreaser/final wash cleaner used in Automotive paint industry (commonly known as Pre-Kleano)
Beautiful 💪🏽🇬🇧👍🏽
Thank you!
4:38 "infusions might seem easy"
That sure isn't my impression. I've watched a bunch of infusion videos and it seems like black magic to me.
Thanks for another fun and interesting video.
I didn't know what RTM stood for. Is it Resin Transfer Molding (Moulding)? It would be nice if you defined abbreviations either at some point in the video or in the description. I'll still watch and like your videos if you don't do this but it would be nice not to need to Google the various terms you use.
I'm really looking forward to seeing how this RTM process works. It reminds me a little of the forged carbon parts process Easy Composites has been demonstrating lately.
Thanks again for the interesting video.
haha glad to hear you are still interested in new stuff, infusion was black magic for me as well :D untill I tried and understood what was going on :p with this project I'm still in no-mans-land :D finding pleasure again and trying new things!
@@ddegn thanks for your commment! i'll keep that in mind, hope you'll watch coming videos as well! it's an honor to compare me with easy composites, more videos are coming ;)
Hello Matthieu! Love your work!
Do you know where i can find the air channel bands to make the shape for de back mould?
Thank you in advance!
Hello. Excellent demonstration video. I'm trying to make a light RtM mould, but would you be so kind as to clarify some doubts?
First, when you create the outer chamber and the inner chamber, the black borders that you glued, are they rubber weather stripping? Or what material should they be?
I wait your answer. Thank you
Your concern to prevent the sheetwax from sticking to the upper mold gel coat, requires PVA to be applied to the surface of sheetwax prior to applying the tooling gel.
hey awesome videos as always - do you ahev the name for the fabric cutters /
Hello friend, I have a question for you!, apart from the traditional technique, do you practice CNC machining? on Carbon? plate. Because I want to make mechanical supports with a CNC engraver. Your opinion will be welcome!. 🐸👍
Where did you get that infusion mesh? I've used mosquito net material on small parts with success, but this looks much cleaner. My life became so much better when I ditched the green plastic mesh.
Btw thanks for making this series. I've read a ton about RTM but have seen nothing else on CZcams of this quality. Looking forward to part 4!
@@ErikRobertson It's indeed a mystery for me as well that I'm discovering by sharing these video's. The infusion mesh can be found on easycomposites website :) been testing a lot of infusion meshes, so far this is the best one for 3D complex shapes. Only negative side of things is that it's hard to remove if your not using a perforated film
Very nice video!!! Nice explanation of the process. But... no respirator during cutting the dry fibers??? Not very healthy
I'm so newbie, but why can't you do "more cars" like in the first steps of your video? What's the purpose of this mould? Thank you
Is it possible to you to make a video specially for making out chamber ?
I be interested to know what spray gun/nozzle size you used to apply the easy composites Pattern coat primer.
I've used a 2.0 nozzle with the pattern coat being thinned with acetone
@@MatthieuLibeert can you tell the amount of thinning and the pressure you used?
Thanks for the high quality videos! 😊
Keep it somewhere between 5-10% to be safe, I spray at 2 bar nozzle wide open, nut this all depends on your spraygun and setup, you better first experiment on a piece of cardboard getting your setup right
@@MatthieuLibeert thanks a lot!!
It is a lot of work, but later if the mould is ready producing is way better than vakuum bagging
correct! It's a lot of work, but once done properly it should keep you some time adding the vacuumsupply compared to regalura resin infusions :)
5:24 “resin break”?
Did I miss the part of the video where discussed the “resin break”?
G4 primer will help on wax, leave it to dry and polish off
G4 From vosschemie?
@@MatthieuLibeert bonda marine is what I have used
Pva on everything with polyester