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Adam Savage's Favorite Tools: Japanese Hand Saws!
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- čas přidán 5. 04. 2021
- $40 Gyokucho Japanese Hand Saw: amzn.to/2RaypAw
Fiskar's Precision Hand Saw: amzn.to/3wr8eWm
Professionally Sharpened Japanese Hand Saw: www.workshophe...
Hack Saw: amzn.to/3dzCW72
Hand Saw: amzn.to/3utGn6f
We've seen Adam use this tool from the earliest days of Tested, and Adam shows you exactly why he's so fond of his Japanese hand saw in comparison to a traditional hack saw or American hand saw. The one he has in the cave has even been professionally sharpened, and is marked for use only by Adam!
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$40 Gyokucho Japanese Hand Saw: amzn.to/2RaypAw
Fiskar's Precision Hand Saw: amzn.to/3wr8eWm
Professionally Sharpened Japanese Hand Saw: www.workshopheaven.com/handmade-240mm-japanese-ryoba-saw-for-hardwood.html
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there's some research showing how pulling objects produces a stable equilibrium where the object follows the pulling motion. par.nsf.gov/servlets/purl/10046030 On the other hand, pushing objects is unstable as perturbations lead to deflections.
I have a nearly identical saw, i noticed that you can actually check the reflection on the blade to see if you're cutting straight. (the edges of the lumber will line up perfectly)
If after that first marking cut you make you rotate the stock once anticlockwise and mark again the same way. The only line you need to watch is line looking at you as a saw will follow the path of least resistance.
No easing down on the Amazon promoting i see 😬
Ah well, i shouldn't bring it up, but it seems a little tone deaf considering the situation.
Have three of these passed down from my grandfather. Both my boys used these to make their pinewood derby cars. It was so much easier for little hands.
I love that he actually uses his tattoo to measure the thickness of the piece of wood he works on
This, it was one of those moments where you go wait a minute. Does he have a ruler tatt'ed on his arm!? Maybe just a patter that delimits every inch
I was searching the comments to see if that was what I was actually seeing. Adam is definitely a modern day master.
Yeah, it’s a stylized ruler with different measurements. He did a video on it a while back. Tattoos like that that are functional as well as stylish are cool as hell. Makes me want to get one on my forearm.
@@Glmorrs1 get a temporary one to see if you like it before commiting to the design and placement.
@@Glmorrs1 Until your skin stretches or expands even a little..
This reminds me of something my grandfather taught me about saw and tools in general:
"Man made tools to do the job easier, let the tool do the work. "
Watching your shop related \ build videos reminds me a lot of the things he taught me in his shop years ago, and I really appreciate you and your videos for that. Thank you.
Two comments:
1: You are still using this saw as if it were a western saw: holding it in a horizontal plane and starting the cut at the closest point to your body. Try holding it diagonally for most of the cut and also start the cut at the furthest point away from you. That way the cut progresses towards you and you will be able to control the direction of the cut musch easier with little movements left or right with your cutting hand.
2: the two sides are not so much a fine and coarse variation of teeth setting as a distinction between rip cutting and cross cutting. The finer teeth cut across the grain of the wood, the coarser ones along the grain.
@ericUtr You may know the answer to this. I knew that the two sides are rip vs cross cut. But I usually find that the "coarse" side :P doesn't work great for me for either type of cut. So I usually end up using the side with beveled teeth for ripping and crosscutting. Any idea's or suggestions as to what I could do to improve my technique? I'm not 100% sure which side is intended for ripping and which side is for cross cutting. I just know which side I use for everything. haha.
@@rustedfriend Here's a link to a video that demonstartes proper technique:
czcams.com/video/SB0nqke9TgA/video.html
Note a few things: always first cut a guiding line and never cut where you cant see the cut, so turn the piece when you reach a corner. Also, japanese woods are fairly soft, so results may differ for harder woods with different grain patterns.
@@rustedfriend usually the cross cut side is finer teeth and the rip side is coaser but sometimes theyre a similar size. The best way to tell the difference is to look at the bevels on the teeth - cross cut teeth are very complex and usually quite thin, wheras the rip teeth are usually pretty simple in shape. (also some saws have little etched markings so look out for those)
A tip for starting off the cut is that often the teeth towards the end of the saw are angled different from the ones at the handle end. You're meant to use just the last few cm of the saw to get your cut started and then slowly progress to using the whole saw as you cut deeper. Other than that just letting the saw do the work is the best thing for it. Try not to introduce any extra forces other than a straight pull.
Was going to say the same thing. I appreciate the link.
@@rustedfriend Paul Selers' channel did this nice video on the tooth geometry recently: czcams.com/video/dx60wY1eGfI/video.html
Keeping the saw blade polished allows you to use the reflection to keep your cuts straight - just keep the reflection of the material straight.
what?
@ra the blade will show a symmetrical line across the piece, it will tell you that you are going at a 90’ angle so you aren’t skewed in one direction or another
How would you go about polishing one?
Thanks for this tip. I'm using this app the time now. Good lighting is key for this.
My mind just got blown. Definitely going to polish the couple of pants all that I have.
The “coarse” and “fine” side Adam mentions are actually for rip cutting and cross cutting respectively.
Yup. They don't cut flush either...
@@SalmoTrutti why’s that?
@@SalmoTrutti the one i have does
@@SalmoTrutti their are versions that do.
@@It-b-Blair Because the teeth is bent outside slightly(although less than normal saw), not perfectly flat. The teeth will scratch your wood if you try to make flush cut using it. Not pretty right? And I heard they are hardened on the teeth, so it will snap if you try to bend it too much. there are flush saw that is easily bent and not leave a mark on your surface
In case you were wondering that type of saw is called a "ryoba", with the double set of teeth. They are designed to take both rip (cut along the grain) and cross-cut (across the grain) with the large and fine teeth respectively
Unless I'm mistaken, they're often used while holding it with both hands, centered in front of you, pulling straight towards your chest. In theory it makes it easier to get a straight cut.
@@rainmannoodles Yeah, you can see in the videos of Japanese woodworkers using traditional methods - they're sitting cross-legged at a low bench in front of the workpiece.
@@nicholascaldwell6079 yep, just bought one for $16 here in Japan.
Ryoba translates to both or double-bladed.
@@steviewonderisnotblind5833 which makes sense given the design!
3:10 That is one of the most satisfying p-twoings I've ever heard 😆
Excellent use of onomatopoeia. I immediately knew which part of the video that timestamp would take me to.
Easily the best
@@KnuckleHunkybuck japanese saw so use japanese lingo
One of the advantages of a Japanese pull saw is the blade is very thin. It can be so thin because it doesn't have to worry about flexing when you push forward, as in a European saw.
True. And that is also why the Japanese saws with no backs (like the ryoba that Adam has here) and zero set to the teeth can flush cut is because you can lay the blade flat against the surface without the handle getting in the way because of this flexibility.
Frame saws exist as thin European push/pull saws
What's the advantage in the push saw? Adam mentions that some people find them usable, so I'm curious what their strengths are. The pull saw seems obvious to me, but I can't say the same for the reverse.
@@JosephDavies I would think length.
The sturdier Western blade (that has to be sturdier because of the push action) can also be made longer, giving a longer cutting surface.
The pull saw is thinner (resulting in a much thinner cut), but cannot structurally be made as long.
As you notice, Japanese pull saws are rather short.
@@JosephDavies you should check out Paul Sellers on You Tube. One of his videos goes into a lot of detail why one may prefer a western style push saw. It mostly comes down to seeing the cut and being able to more accurately steer the cut when needed. I have both and use both. I will say that to use a push saw well you really need to have proper bench/stool to allow proper and rigid work holding. The pull saw is a lot more forgiving in that regard.
I switched to pull saws a few years ago and never looked back. Adam is absolutely correct about tension. My Japanese pull saws _actively_ force me to stay relaxed while using them. It's a beautiful thing.
Fantastic, Adam! 😃
A tip: the course side is for rip cut and the fine side for cross cut. 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Exactly, I was just about to say
I am a carpenter, was about to say the same thing.
Looks like you beat us all to it.
@@sbooder Sometimes it happens. 😬
What's the difference between the two cuts?
I bought a $25 Japanese hand saw based off Adams recommendation of it in an earlier video, and while I don't often use saws, it is leagues better than any other saw I've used.
Pull saws are the best. And that's the tooth.
I SAW what you did here, now CUT it out. 😉
@@Charlesb88 That comment had a high T.P.I.. You're pushin' it, but this video is about pull saws, ya see... saws. Now get a handle on things. No more flinging dozuki in my eyes.
The Hole Tooth.
@@wompbozer3939 and nothing but the tooth
Makes me think of my mom. She got a Japanese pull saw when I was in high school & I remember she was so excited! For the few times I've used it, I have to agree that cutting on the pull feels a lot more natural to me.
"I can't talk and saw at the same time" that is a classic line
in dutch everyone can! ('zagen' is a literal translation of sawing but it also means whining ;-) )
@@bertbert2725 Well tbh, its an expression Belgium people make though
I saw what you did there.
I felt that line
I never thought Adam could actually use his ruler tattoo for measurements. That's pretty rad.
I guess he's done growing
He has used it videos many times already
I find it so freaking cool for some reason almost makes me wanna get one if I ever open my own shop
@@ChloetheGaymer well I guess we ain't as big of fans as Chloe
Probably best for quick n dirty, imprecise measurements. Between skin and muscle stretching and shrinking, and ink spread over time, it's probably not super accurate. But for measuring within the closest half inch, yeah it'd be perfectly handy.
i love Japanese saws. They have saved me a ton of trouble over the years.
Speaking of tool instruments, in the early 80s my uncle made a xylophone out of socket wrenches for his industrial band. I got to hear a couple recordings of it and it was incredibly cool.
If you have any you should post it, that sounds right up my alley
"Only I can touch this saw!"
*immediately slaps the saw blade*
I love this Japanese Saw !
I bought two of these, 2 years ago thanks to you !
I kept one, and gave the other one to my brother in law as an original wedding gift ! Thank you Adam !
Never stop making videos Adam. Videos like this where you speak about the things you’re passionate about is what keeps me coming back. Great video.
One of the best tips I got for woodworking on YT when making a straight and true cross cut: before making a cross cut, severe the fibers first with a knife. Chisel out material towards the knifecut (on the waste side). It now becomes a fence or a guide for your saw (push or pull). It's a few extra steps, but it helps in making clean and true cuts.
Making knifecuts on all sides also prevents blowouts when the saw exits the other side of the cut.
Adam: this saw was professionally sharpened and only I can touch it it's so special and
Adam 0.07 seconds later: FDOYOYOYING 😀
I get that. Like he said about the chef, I used to work in restaurants and I have a knife in the kitchen that is My Knife. If somebody else fucked up My Kinfe, I’d be really pissed, but if I fuck up My Knife? Well, I guess I just gave the blade more character and I have no one to blame but myself.
@@Glmorrs1 this is my knife, There are many like it..
As a joiner, i prefer our traditionnal saws but i understand you because you are not a specialist you are an incredible multitask' maker and for what you do the japanese saw is a great tool really easy to use. professionnally, i think it's more a question of what teeth you've got on your saw and how it is sharpened. I've got some old saws used by my father before me and he didn't get them new. They are perfectly functionnal and always a pleasure to use. Honestly we don't use them a lot anymore but i like to demonstrate how to use correctly a saw to my apprentices because it's one of the basics of our job (Sorry for my english, i'm french)
Off-topic, but is that a Girls Generation hat in your profile pic?
@@PongoXBongo 😁😁😁 Not an official one. It's the "I got a boy" logo modified with the french flag made for my first travel in korea in 2013
@@anthonyprampart7359 Very cool! I've got one of the standard black, winged ones. And I found an almost identical winged design that's also styled like a birthday cake (GG + Red Velvet).
Love my old theatre tech professor's Japanese handsaw story.
A Japanese troupe was using the theatre he worked at. They brought their own crew to assemble the set, ultimately he was left to watch them work. He was floored when he saw them put a whole set together with just wooden pegs, cutting the ends even using these saws. Not a single nail or screw was used.
Not far from where Adam grew up, in Goshen New York, there is a transplanted 900-year-old Japanese farmhouse that is built this way. Not a single nail in the place. It is incredibly gorgeous.
I grew up in an American Farmhouse built in the 1780s, that is similar. The only nails hold the siding onto the outside. Subsequent remodeling, of course used nails for things like drywall and lathe and plaster. But the structure of the house, and of the barn, was all post and beam held together with oak dowels
The "coarse" side that you mentioned is best used for cutting along the grain of the wood, whereas the "fine" side is for cross cuts.
Great video as always. Be safe everyone
Ahhh! Thank you!
I've been using these for years and have almost never been able to get the coarse tooth side to cut without a struggle because it wants to bite so aggressively. I find that it is dynamite for softer materials like foam.
The fine side is wonderful for even green hardwoods. I've used it to clear many low hanging limbs in bicycle lanes and trails. Amuses the hell out of people to see the collapsible version of the shown saw pop out of a bike bag (with bypass pruning shears). I clear the obstruction then keep going in seconds like it was never there.
@@edwardsmith7131 you're welcome, edward. If you see the teeth from upclose you'll notice that the rip teeth (coarse side in adam's words) are all the same and in line, like little chisels, but the cross ones have an offset sharpening, more like knives.
You momentarily touched on why you, and many other people prefer a pull saw over a push, and it's the control. Pushing a bending, wobbly blade away from you lets the saw wobble and walk in unexpected directions, but when you pull, your hand leads the way. As long as your arm moves in a steady, even motion, the blade will never wobble off course. Love these saws, i've used them since I was a kid, building tree forts in the forest.
9:08 I love watching the little puffs of saw dust come out with each pull. So satisfying!
I’m glad I’m not the only one. :)
I said this before on the first vid he made about these saws and I'll say it again here, I absolutely love japanese saws. They are truly the best. You can be so precise with one of those it's just nuts.
I also love these saws. A friend gave me one and now I use little else. He tells me that the "coarse" side is a rip saw while the other is for cross cut.
Adam, I just wanted to thank you for all of the knowledge you've been sharing with us all of these years. Whether it was on Mythbusters... or any show you've done, you truly inspire alot of people with the professional work you do. You are one of a kind and from the bottom of my heart I thank you for everything you've taught us. Passion is beautiful in the right hands.
When Adam starts his steel-drum band, someone can play the Japanese saws.
Can’t wait for this concert 😂
Only ADAM plays these saws!
He should start a jug band!!
time to bring back the home improvement tool band?
I'll get my saws tuned up for our future jam sessions.
I totally find myself in your enthusiasm, Adam. Indeed, these saws are wonderful in use and extremely sharp. Nice video!!
Love these pull-saws. Total revelation! The Fugaku folding saw from Gyokucho is superb and small enough to carry
I love tools. This is a wonderful introduction to the Japanese pole saw. As a maker this makes my heart happy. Thank you Adam.
Thanks, Adam, for this video. I just bought my first pull saw on Saturday. It cost me $8.99 brand new (marked down from $9.99). Certainly it is not a precision instrument, but already I am shocked at how cleanly I can cut. I’m building shelving for my shop and this bargain pull saw is already the best tool for my jobs.
Love Japanese hand saws. The first time I used one, it was a revelation. I'm not afraid to say that I do think that pull saws are inherently better than push saws.
The Japanese saw I bought like 5 years ago was a total revelation. You can argue that the effort and everything else is the same no matter which way it cuts - but if you try one and take the time to get used to it...the Japanese saw wins. As Adam pointed out - fine cut saws are flexible and if the power cut is a push, then the saw will bend and throw off your cut line. If the power cut is a pull, that just can't happen - so it's a win. But what he didn't say is that it's more relaxing. Somehow the combination of muscles for the pull are more capable than the ones doing the push.
I love this video so much. Ever since I was a kid I just had an intuitive problem with pushing saws. I have always installed the blades of any hand saw with replaceable blades backwards if I could, especially my hacksaw, It always cuts on the pull
Thank you for loving Japanese saw for so long time!
When I worked at a factory that made foam filled panels, I made knives to trim foam from 1 1/2 inch wide band saw blades. I made them shaping and sharpening the side without teeth then adding a tape wrapped handle, think prison shank. Most I made where the saw part cut on the pull rather than push because it was safer without a hand guard.
I was introduced to the Japanese back saw when I was training to be a luthier. The best tool in the toolbox!
So true about being relaxed with this saw, I used one for the first time the other day with the same tension as with a push saw, but then I remembered the videos I've seen about them in the past, consciously loosened up, and so much better!
Woodworking is a hobby of mine and I do a lot of work with (mostly vintage) hand tools. I own both a couple of Japanese saws as well as several vintage western saws, mostly pre-WWII Disston panel saws (ie: the big American style saws Adam mentioned).
Both types of saws have their uses and sometimes one is better than the other for a particular task, but both have their place in a workshop. A saw that cuts on the pull stroke (Japanese) can use a thinner blade and provides good accuracy while a saw that cuts on the push stroke (western) requires a thicker blade to prevent buckling but allows you to put more power into the cut. I was told that in Japan the majority of tree species are considered softwood while in the west the majority are hardwoods, hence why the saws are different styles.
If you're making precise cuts, or need to take off just a tiny amount at the end of a board, or are cutting something like plywood that's easily damaged, something like a Japanese dozuki saw is a great choice. If you need to rip an oak board, a western panel saw can't be beat. And trust me, a quality western panel saw (like a vintage Disston) properly fettled and sharpened is a joy to work with...you can make very straight, precise, fast cuts with them. The new ones with plastic handles that come from the home center are garbage.
If you want to make a straight starting cut, it's better to start from the corner opposite to you and pull the saw to the other side. By starting from the opposite side, you have an anchor point on the opposite side from you which makes sure the saw is straight, and then you only need to make sure that you pull it along the line to get a straight cut. (Instead of incrementally trying to follow the line, like you do in this video, you can just pull along the whole line)
I'm not sure that's correct for Japanese (pull) saws. I use Western and Japanese saws on a daily basis, and what you say is definitely true for push saws. But if you watch a Japanese sawyer working, they often do it like Adam is.
Here's two good reasons why: 1 Pole handle - it's not a pistol grip and needs to be angled down for your wrist to be comfortable on a big cut. 2 Sawdust - start at the far edge and you pull the sawdust out of the gullets onto your cut line. The way Adam is doing it clears the sawdust to fall out of the cut.
It feels weird at first - not pulling along the (top) line - but you make accurate cuts as much with your muscles as your eyes.
Of course, on a small piece of wood it makes no real difference.
@@motobenbh4722 I agree that you should cut with the saw angled down, what I mean is that you get a straight cut easier if you make the first cut according to the above. I.e. the discomfort and sawdust are only problems right at the beginning, and this phase only takes a brief moment. Don't get me wrong: you can absolutely make a straight cut the way Adam did it, I just argue that it would be easier (and less error prone) the other way. You can make a straight starting cut very fast with the above method.
At least this is my experience with a pull saw, and what my logic tells me. Though, there is one thing you need to be careful about when cutting from the opposite side: absolutely do not twist (side ways) the handle, or you get a curved cut. In this sense it might be easier to do it the Adam way for some people. Both have their pros and cons.
For push saws, it would kind of make sense to start from the corner on the side you are on to get a straight cut. The only problem is that it is kind of difficult to control the direction of the blade that way, but at least the cut is straight ;) This is also one of the reasons why I would prefer a pull saw for making a precise straight cut (unless the saw is very rigid) because the blade bends when you start from the opposite side which makes it harder to cut straight, and controlling the blade direction is difficult when starting from the other side. With a pull saw the whole thing becomes pretty trivial.
@@HoxTop Watch any Japanese wood crafter and you see they all pull down (with the blade angled up)
I agree OP, for a Japanese saw you step back a bit and start far away from you. Then you pull towards you.
@@HoxTop I see what your saying, and did it that way myself for a long time. But watching Japanese carpenters on CZcams changed my mind.
You can still sight along the blade, your initial entry into the timber is easier because there is less weight on the teeth, and you can still use the reflections in the blade as a "cheat"
I didn't really like disagreeing with your first comment, and it sort of stuck in my head. Then I realised what might be the deciding factor (for me). When you start at the near corner you can see your saw on both the horizontal AND vertical cut lines. On the far corner you don't get that little bonus.
"I've measured six times and cut three times and the bloody piece is still too short!!"
A small hacksaw is my #1 go-to tool for cutting aluminium or plastic.
I sometimes reassemble it to cut from inside a hole, or reverse the direction of the blade.
My paternal uncle was part of a company that liberated a Japanese POW camp of Allied soldiers and airmen in WW2. The guards were put to work sawing planks out of green trees just felled. Three men sat in staggered formation along the log, sawing with Hassunme rip saws from one end to the other, cutting three planks at a time ... fairly effortlessly.
Back in 2005 when i was a carpenter trainee in germany, everyone of the class bought a simple Gyokucho Razor saw after four months. We were sick of using the heavy, dull and antique frame saws. The best handsaw for wood i've ever had, have and still use.
I still remember my first time using a Japanese style saw, a Vaughn BS333C. It was so wonderful I actually laughed grinning! Never looked back.
I had a tree surgeon recommend a Silky saw and so I bought the Gomtarro and used it to cut down and log three 40ft trees. They cut so effortlessly and save a lot of energy. I decided later to try them on wood work and they are perfect for this work as the cut and kerf is really clean.
I love my pull saw for cleaning up my stair stringer notches. So much better than a chisel for getting that little nub in the corner of the notch that's often left behind by the jigsaw, which I use to finish out the circular saw cuts... Man I love saws!
I used to work very closely with in my opinion some damn fine machinists. I wasn't a machinist nor was I in training. I was the guy that took all the parts and assembled them. I was new to this environment and one day shortly after coming into work. The machinist came up to me with a really rough looking aluminum block. He also brought a print and laid them on my work bench. With the biggest smile on his face he said to me "Do you want to know something amazing?...Today I'm going to take this block of aluminum and I'm going to find this part(pointing to the print) inside of it. I just have to take away everything that is in the way of you seeing this part." Your quote from Jamie reminded me of that interaction and I wanted to share it. With any material and whomever is working it, is always trying to do that. Even if a part was scrapped(very rarely did this happen) he would say "oops, grabbed the wrong chunk of metal. That one was for a different part."
I used my Japanese pull saw last week to cut a rectangle out of 3/4 plywood. I used a circular saw to cut the rectangle on one side, then used the pull saw to finish the corners
As a flooring installer for over 30 years when I discovered the Japanese saw I was amazed, awesome cutting tool. I loved it
As a case for the push saw, it will not allow you to have bad form. As you pointed out if it binds on a push it will flex and let you know you have messed up. With a pull saw it may be easier to use correctly but it is also easier to muscle through bad form (still a fan of pull saws but figured devil's advocate was warranted)
I must really suck then because every time I use a hack saw I end up saying screw it and just pull it backwards and use the back of the teeth to make the cut since they cut easier then jamming the saw into the work.
This is a very good observation dear Keith! I feel that many of us love them both for those very reasons! 😇🌎❤️
Bending on pushing is the #1 cause of hangups and inaccuracies when sawing for me. This video has convinced me.
My father recently used his birthday gift japanese style handsaw to do all of the tenoning for a folding camping saw he made. It's very handy at small cuts as well
this is by far the most interesting video of a man sawing a block of wood ive ever seen
I have one. It's my go-to saw in most applications. Thanks Adam.
It is kind of adorable how you seem to get excited about your tools. I cannot really relate to that - but i guess it is a kind of satisfaction.
His enthusiasm is definitely infectious.
People who love materialism like me feels how excited he is.
Tools provide one with a sort of freedom. Especially for creative types, tools can open up lots of types of expression they might not otherwise have. It’s easy to get excited over that.
Pull saw finesse trick:
For the first ~3 "pulls"... Only pull! No back and forth. Resist that urge! Use the whole length of the sawblade, and let it come out of the material.
Realign the saw. Gently pull all the way along the saw blade. Repeat.
Now you have a nice channel for the saw to sit in, and you can begin the gentle back and forth.
This will nearly eliminate the chance of the saw jumping out and #%$@ing up your fancy material surface.
This will also encourage you to relax, and keep the saw going exactly where you want it.
If I am cutting through something 1 inch or less, I will often do this process the whole way through
This video expresses exactly how I feel about Japanese pull saws, to my eyes they are just an upgrade across the board when compared with push saws.
They are fantastic, I often use mine for joinery and I find I get a much straighter cut if I have to do a longer rip, get the saw started straight and it will continue to do so!
As someone who studied woodworking, I love these.
Same reasons why i love Silky Saws for outdoor applications
This is true for the electric saw we use for craniotomies as well. The newbies try to force it but you learn to ease up and let the saw do the work while gently guiding it. This allows the saw to cut through bone like butter.
I absolutely love the sound that Japanese saw made when you tweaked it. It sounded like a noise you'd hear in a Scooby Doo cartoon.
I have seen that saw in many different videos and have always wondered what it was called and been amazed at the skill people have shown with it. I'm going to have to get me one of those!
I'm in the same camp; used Japanese saws before and definitely prefer them. When I use a "regular" saw I always have to basically halfsword the thing to keep it stable.
I love Japanese saws. Their fast and has such a thin kerf. They do take practice to use accurately but it changed the way I work in my woodshop.
love my Gyokucho Japanese saw set, it might be not as good as the high end professional ones. But it can change blade easily, I can use one single handle(I got each a handle tho) for all Dozuki, Ryoba and Atsuba. Ryoba which is same shape as the one Adam used in the video is for general quick rough cutting, Atsuba for opening holes and Dozuki for fine finishing cut
I think I read somewhere about the ease of use of these, and that's what got me started into my woodworking hobby
This is a good use of material properties. Objects in compression are subjected to buckling which in this case distort the blade making it stuck while cutting. On the other hand, objects in tension does not react the same way.
I asked my wife to give me this saw as my anniversary gift and she got it for me and I really love it.
I discovered and switched to a Japanese Ryoba pull saw during the first lockdown. Pulling made so more sense by not having the blade bend like I would do occasionally with a traditional push saw, plus I found it to be much more precise since it was easier to see what I was doing because the cut line was so thin, smooth and clean. If you work thoughtfully with patients, you’ll be rewarded with a finished cut that basically doesn’t need any sanding. I just ordered my first Dozuki to give joinery work a go...can’t wait!
The Japanese saw seems great at sawing and all... but the sound it makes when Adam flicks it is why I REALLY REALLY want one now!!!😍
Long ago, in my much younger days, I was told by a carpenter to "let the saw do the work".
It's been my maxim over the decades, even tho' I occasionally want to force the cut.
Great video, Adam!
Literally my go-to saw as well. Can’t believe I went so many years without one, and have two to make up for it.
My Suizan 9.5” pull saw is amazing. One side for ripping (coarse teeth) and one side for cross-cutting.
The accuracy and finish of the cut wood is like a laser cut, not to mention that I can nearly rival the speed of cutting a 2x4 with a circular saw.
One thing I learned about sawing from my luthier apprenticeship is that you should move your body and arms in unison with feet planted to get more control on the cut.
The fine and coarse teeth Adam mentioned (on each side of the pull-saw) are for performing cross-cuts and rip-cuts, respectively (ie cutting perpendicular to the wood-graln, and parallel to the grain).
I personally also own a smaller version of this saw, holy **** its easy to use and cuts super clean to the point where you almost always don't need to do any sanding after. It is so good that it sounds like a scam, but its my best purchase ever.
Edit: To add, Adam you were using it slightly wrong. You can angle it downward 45 degrees towards your knees and also don't worry about following the line. Just trust the tool and saw away. That's the beauty of it, it cuts straight on its own.
Those Japanese saws are great, especially when used for the respective task each of their types was designed for. I use a set since years and did never look back to the time when I used the standard european push-saws.
I picked up one of these randomly years ago and quickly ditched my traditional saw. They are very handy.
The American bow saw is tensioned on both sides so it will not bend when you push or pull. So you can cut on the push and the pull. I notice when I use a bow saw that I alternate doing 20 push cuts then 20 pull cuts. Because I am accessing different muscle groups. While my push muscles recover, I pull. And while my pull muscles recover, I push.
Love my Japanese saws. Had 3 over the years, and every one has been a joy to use.
I literally have bunches of old hand saws. Rips, crosscut, back saws and the like but after I found the Japanese saw I don't think I have ever used them again. Years ago they were featured in an article by Tauntons "Wood" magazine and was fascinated by them but also was hesitant to shell out $ that normally I would spend on a power tool but have to say we'll worth every cent. Often now grabbing the Japanese saw is easier than breaking out a power tool for a one time cut off. Plus my shop is in the back of an industrial building that fronts the main st of our small town and I have two apts above my shop. They know that during the day I will produce copious amounts of noise but often I will work past 9pm and try to keep it down.
Japanese know how to make saws like they do knives. So awesome. Japanese tree saws, Silky etc. are also amazing!
I feel Adam on the urge to use high pressure when sawing even though you need a light touch. I'm working on making a specialized box, and I only have hand saws. Cutting lots of little bits of wood, and every time I have to stop myself and relax so I can actually get the job done.
I use a smaller Japanese Saw for my model airplane building. I particularly like it for flush cutting, which is difficult to do with any other saw on soft woods, balsa in particular. I was surprised you didn’t demonstrate a flush cut even though you mentioned it. I also use Zona saws effectively.
The flush cut saw is a different saw that does not scratch the surface because it has no set.
A Japanese pull saw has a set to the teeth and will scratch so you don’t flush cut with normal Japanese pull saw. American flush cut saw looks just like a Japanese pull saw.
Adam is the best tool salesman I've seen.
I learned about the japanese saw at a very young age from my maids husband who was in japan learning carpentry during wwii. He showed me how to use it. This when I lived in truk, now known as chuuk. So basically that's the types of saws I have used my whole life. I'm 71 now.
I grew up using American push saws on the farm, and they do the job, but I like the control that pull saws give. Not only do the not bend in the middle of a cut, but they are also much thinner, so they remove less material making the cut easier a 2nd way. The first time I used a pull saw, I basically fell in love with the simplicity of use. I didn't have to learn anything to use it, it just worked the first time, every time. It's good to know I'm in great company with Adam in liking these saws. It's too bad they still aren't as common to find in the USA as the push saw. If I hadn't just bought a push saw last month, I'd probably be buying the one Adam linked.
with push saws I've come to understand that they are primarily intended to be used either on material which is unmovable (like say a tree) or on material which is resting on a bench or stand because in pushing the saw down and away you help secure the material to the bench rather than pulling it off as you might do with a pull saw had you not fastened it fully beforehand.
Traditional Japanese woodworking is amazing. Simple tools to create some very interesting and complicated joinery. And right at home in a modern workshop.
We have a couple of those Japanese hand saws; they are the bomb! They make such a fine kerf, and unlike many other saws, if you stray from your line, it's much easier to correct.
I fell in love when I discovered tijima. And started collecting at 20. I now own 3 handles and 8 blades because if you are actually going to use the tool your body is worth having good tools that do the work for you. thanks for sharing this
Your video was almost inspiring! I’ve watched Japanese craftsmen using these saws but with NO actual instruction; I appreciate your enthusiasm and helpful tips...l really like these pull saws myself, and I’m using them more and more. 👍🏻
Wranglerstar showed me how great the cheaper version of this saw is and I’ve had it for about 3 yrs now, I absolutely love it. As a contractor I cut all my trim, cabinets and all finish work that requires trimming or cutting if any kind. My saw came in a sheet of thick plastic with an O-ring in the top to hang it from and that’s how I store mine in my truck. So glad your showing people these saws, there fantastic.
Never thought I'd find myself watching someone saw wood with a hand saw 🤣🤣🤣
The power of an Adam Savage enthusiastic video 😁
I just picked up the Harbor Freight version, to give this style of saw a shot, about 4 months ago. I've used it gladly more times in those 4 months then I have the 24 inch push saw that I've had for 10 years. I only do small projects here and there, but this style saw I find myself looking for things to use it for, and I have tested it on larger cuts you would typically use a electric saw to achieve. Looking back, if I had known about this style saw 20 years ago when I was living in an apartment with my ONE toolbox in the closet with an assortment of hand tools, I would have been well equipped for much bigger projects than I actually was at the time.