Beck 550 Spyder Replica VLOG #2 Will a Carb Cleaning do the Trick?
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- čas přidán 10. 07. 2024
- Beck 550 Spyder , Porsche 550 Spyder , Beck Replica , 550 Spyder , Porsche Spyder , Garage Vlog , 550 spyder build , 550 spyder kit , 550 spider , Porsche Spyder replica , 550 Spyder Tribute , Spyder VW Engine , Spyder engine work , dellorto carbruator rebuild , VW beetle carb rebuild
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Hi Everyone, look what is in the garage today! Our friend Mike brought over his Beck 550 Replica to get a little work done on it.
In episode#2, We get into those Dellorto carbs!. and use an infrared thermometer to find out if the cylinders are happy
You can get that super cool infrared thermometer here: amzn.to/2uOlW7B
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Hi Everyone, look what is in the garage today! Our friend Mike brought over his Beck 550 Replica to get a little work done on it.
In Episode#2, We get into those Dellorto carbs and use an infrared thermometer to find out if the cylinders are happy.
You can get that super cool infrared thermometer here: amzn.to/2uOlW7B
The gold standard in how an automotive video should be done. Well thought out content. Excellent camera angles, lighting & audio. I really enjoy watching your channel!
Fran, I noticed in the video that the carb cross bar linkage is loose in it's mounts. This would affect the throttle sync. Just a heads up....good luck!
Thanks so much!! F
You two do a great job with your videos. I like the fact that you don't edit to make yourselves look super smart. You cause me to get involved in helping solve the everyday problems many of us diy shade tree mechanics encounter. I always learn something valuable from you. Ps: Sounds like a vacuum leak or valve problem. Can't wait to see if I guessed right.
That’s funny. Yeah, check out Home Built by Jeff if you have’t yet. He taught us that humbling technique about learning from our mistakes. Heidi
Hello Franny, complementing the history of this 550, Chuck Beck was a partner engineer at the Brazilian company Chamonix, this company manufactured the best Porsche Spyder in the world, Porsche itself dismantled one when a unit was taken to a fair in Germany and they consider it very well done because they decided to sell some at the Porsche dealership itself. Chamonix / Beck sent their cars to the USA for several years. I love the 550 and I want to make one for myself soon. Thanks for posting these videos, they are very good!
Thanks for that!
Your vids are awesome! No filler, just great, informative content. Thanks and happy motoring!
You two especially the lady who does all the explaining are really neat. You patiently explain everything. I love watching your videos.
I really enjoy these. Patience and persistence . Keep them coming!!
Nice work!
Nice video, thanks!
Nice cold start franny i love it
Another great vid. I never thought of checking each exhaust temp to diagnose a problem, but it makes a lot of sense.
Home Built By Jeff thanks Jeff. Your beetle "john Lemon" is really coming along nicely! I love the color :) Everyone needs to check that out! F
Cool
The game is afoot :) Enjoying the sleuthing :)
I love your mental process for getting to the issue. When I was roadracing 400/4 Honda’s back in the 70’s, I always removed the stock plenum chamber in favor of individual carb stacks to get better air flow. This always caused me endless headaches and I had to play with the carbs a bunch to get the engine to run smoothly. If I wasn’t such a knucklehead, I should have left the plenum chamber right where the factory did.........on the bike!
Good luck tracking down the problem with the Spyder.
Hi Franny
Check the carb mount for air leaks, usually a hissing sound that comes and goes, get WD40 or carb clean and spray on the carb mounts if there is a leak the idle will change and become smoother when spraying. Looking forward to next video
That is on the list... Thanks!
Great Video! I think you're on the right track looking into the valves. I would also suggest checking the compression on each cylinder too. When I was younger, there was a trick for getting the carbon off valves using water. IDK if this would work on an aircooled engine, but it's worth a thought. Good Luck!!!
Franny, definitely worth checking the valves, a compression test or better still a leak down test will tell you more about the condition of the valves and cylinders. Also you need to sync a carb sync tool to make sure the carbs are balanced. How sweet does the 356 engine sound over the VW Type 1 engine! Cheers from Australia!
I know, right? What is it about the 356 that sounds so put together? I know that Spyder has straight pipes, but... It should run smooth.
Came late to the game. I enjoy your informative/informed show. The 356 was a dream car when I was much younger and I enjoyed your comprehensive review on it. Keep it up!
Thanks! F
Pick up a carb sync tool. Its a real must when running duel carbs and I think it will go a long way to fixing this issue. . Keep up the great work!
356, is a work of art. Dellortos. You need a Doctorate, and a good therapist, to work on them.
LOL!
Great video again , thanks for taking us trough the process . I also believe it's a valve issue and suggest a leaktest and compressiontest. Great video !
Coming up!
Definitely need to check the compression. The way it's bouncing around it's probably only running on 3 cylinders or less. I remember when I worked on carburetor engines that the main thing that was usually wrong was they were on the top of the engine where they were too accessible. I'd start thinking about a leaking valve. Nice video.
Keep watching!
There is a tool that you can use that will ensure that the carbs are adjusted properly ensuring both carbs are synchronized. The plug would suggest that the hot cylinder was running lean.
👍 👍 👍!!!
Just from the two videos I've seen it seems like there is a bunch of noise in the valve train that shouldn't be there... Makes me wonder if he's got a bad guide or if the valves just haven't been touched in several thousand miles... As we all know, the wrong oil can wipe out a cam on a flat tappet car in a HURRY... Hmmm... Sticking around to see the next installment.
Thanks Greg. It is really clattery! Those valves... I'll be doing a leak down tonight...
Dear Franny-I know you are not in the retail/diagnose/estimate/fix business-hopefully you will accept the following advice as help and not as negative criticism.......when you take on the challenge of fixing an engine with many different running and performance issues-(especially with no previous service history and ESPECIALLY any 4 cylinder air-cooled basic VW/PORSCHE engines)-may i strongly suggest you do basic troubleshooting tests first!!!....i spent 15 years as a VW dealer technician-(air cooled era)-and it took me a while to discipline myself to follow this same advice!!!....I remember everyone (including myself!!)would always waste time/efforts going straight to carburetion adjustments,then ignition parts replacement (points,plugs,etc.,etc.) to no avail!!!!.....thennnnnn,decide to check compression/valve clearances. Many,many times we would find low compression readings caused by improper closed up valve clearance gaps-especially on the exhaust valves. I will admit-basic VW aircooled engines (back in those days-late 50's to late 60's)- did have burnt valve issues,requiring at least partial-sometimes full engine disassembly to correct. We as dealer mechanics and/or independent shops always/always!! were doing valve jobs/reseals/and overhauls/right up to factory remanufactured (KD) short/long blocks. I digress a little....my point-advice to you is there is NOOOO way you can do basic good tuning on carburetion/ignition with these engines (that goes for any engine!!)-without spec' even compression with proper valve lash. All tuning efforts are wasted,and more complex with two carburetors-even with proper compression!!!....Sooooo,compression checks-before and after valve lash adjustments,(if within spec,then ignition tests-(spark wire resistance tests,inspection of points-cap-rotor,etc.)thennnnn fuel system tests-such as pressure/fuel filter flow etc........Frannie,i know you will figure out the problems and issues on this 'special" little 'reisentoter' car. We all await your 'to follow video (s)'!!!!!! Thank you,Heidi and Franny.. John
John, I think she is there. Also, you have to remember we don’t have all the fancy equipment shops do, so often Franny starts with what she can work with first. However, we just got compression and leak down kits! Thanks for the advice. We always like comments! Heidi
Thank you Heidi-i'm sure your toolbox has standard compression gauge,valve adjustment feeler gauges,and simple voltmeter/ohm resistance meter....nothing fancy as you may be thinking?.the same as we had back in the 50's/60's......guess i'm showing my age huhh?? ha ha...myself and others anxiously waiting for your final diagnosis...thank you John
Check plug leads and the tightness of the plugs in the engine......might save you lots of time....best of luck...
Franny, keep us in the loop. Really interested to get to the bottom of this ...... Careful, these mechanical gremlins can take you down endless rabbit holes; I almost lost the will to live a couple of times!
Totally... I really should have started with a complete diagnostic but I got caught up in "It's running mostly fine, but needs a little tune-up". The big clue here is how not much is making a difference. I'm editing the next episode now, but had a tool break. I'll have that out early next week. F
My best guess is valve in chamber 2 is stuck, or not seating properly. Always wanted one of these cars, jealous that you are getting to work with one...... even if it is a replica 😊
The mystery continues. Compression test next? Great video.
Yup... My first tester wasn't working properly so I now have a (hopefully) better one. Tonight's project :)
I found that if each sides throttles open at slightly different times it will run really rough until the revs pickup. Once the engine is warm and idling pop a linkage off one side and rev each bank separately. If it picks up much smoother I would suspect it's out of sync side to side. That said there is another issue with that hot cylinder as you say. Time to break out the compression gauge!
I couldn't agree more :) The Leakdown is next.
please show your foot pressing the accelerator while doing the revving :) :)
Somehow these issues remind my of the Alfa Romeo 33 my mum had in the nineties. I drove that car a lot, I'm pretty sure I used it more than mum. It had a water cooled flat four with two double barrel downdraft carburetors. Ours had Webers, but some came with Dellorto's. Still this setup isn't too different from what you have in the 550. The little Alfa engine was totally lovely once it warmed up, but idling when the engine was cold was a different story. Especially in cold weather, especially when the car was parked up hill, especially when it had been sitting for a week or so... This car just wanted to be driven and got all moody once you didn't. Good luck with the valve. Would be my next guess too.
Thanks! It feels a little more than moody... I talked with a previous owner this morning and he said it doesn't sound right. On to the leak-down... I have a feeling there are a few things going on here ;)
I was going to suggest valves but was beaten too it
Valves are what came to mind for me -- curious to see what this is -- just hope we don't have a seasons-end cliff hanger... ala "Who shot J.R....."
Or Who Shot Mr. Burns :)
Wow,Who ever built that engine did a hack job.
Hi Franny, just a question on the fuel pump. Is it an electrical pump? And did it just stop after priming the carbs? Does it cut off by a non return type pressure regulator? If yes, how did it get its power cut off? I thought pressure regulator holds the pressure set and pump just buzzes away without making any displacement above that pressure
Doesn't it sound like a bent valve? Outstanding video and detective work!
I know, right? I'm working on part three. Some interesting info there...
Great video! Let me know if you have any questions with the carbs, I know a thing or two about the Dells and can help you out with them, also there is a sometimes common problem with them called the dellorto drip which can cause the problem your having also.
Happy motoring!
Hi Franny, luv your channel! Dont assume Delortos tune the same as the standard solex. On my lotus delortto jets are actually different than the more normal webers. Even different vintage webers vary
Took me a lot of hair pulling to finally figure that out.
Thanks Tom, in what way do you think they are different? The Zeniths on the 356 are pretty sensitive to those air bleed screws. I don't find that at all with these Dells... Is that what you found?
I actually had webers and most of the tuning info I found for the 40DCOE's was telling me 3 1/2 turns in for the jets. Later I discovered my carbs were newer, the hint was manufactured in Portugal and the thread on the jets different. Only required 1 1/2 turns. Agree that the differences are small but I was always careful not to let things get too lean.
Hey! I just noticed your braces are off. How many videos before I finally realized it?
Great job as usual!
Lol. She has some old footage with braces just to confuse you. She will be putting that out at some point. Franny got them off on July 3rd. Maybe four or five videos??? Heidi
Those braces were horrible :( I needed to fix a tooth/jaw alignment, but they were torture. Super glad they are off!!!
I'm also thinking that it's a valve, if not a carb and/or vacuum leak.
Either out of adjustment, or burnt valve.
That dreaded "burnt" word. I have a new, more better leak down tester I'll be using tonight. Should shed some light on it.
Vacuum leak maybe, hot means lean.
Right... That is what is so confusing. That plug was dark and sooty (not wet) which means either rich or just incomplete combustion. The vacuum leak is a thought... Thanks. F
That car sounds like there is a tap tap going on inside. I don't know one thing about air cooled engines , but that was a lot of chatter. The porsche was nice and even
It was a stick adjuster... Which one are you on... #2? Keep watching... It gets a bit nutty from here...
@@HeidiandFranny haha I am going to keep watching. But what is world is a stick adjuster lol?
That engine has steel pushrods that are set to pretty much zero valve lash. So, what you do is to tighten down the adjuster to the point where the rod won't spin and then loosen just enough until it does spin. Well, It was sticking a bit and I thought the pushrod was tight, but it wasn't... You'll see how tight the rods are to the tubes... I finally got it in the end... It was super noisy though!
@@HeidiandFranny oh I see! So you adjust pushrods like we do on chevy engines. That is interesting! Well I can't wait to be driving around in this car. Obviously you'll be driving and I'll be watching :D
Air leak on #2 intake manifold gasket. Valves adjusted when cold?
A few folks have been mentioning a vacuum leak. But that sooty plug?? I will check. Weird, only one of the carbs even has a vacuum take off and it has a good seal on it so it would have to be a gasket. The base of the carb is good, but maybe the manifold? Should be easy enough to test with the carb off.
Agree with Fred and Wes Williams (hot=lean). I have a similar engine on a Speedster replica (HiPo VW Type 1 stroker, dual Webers - very similar to the Dell's). This engine should sound MUCH smoother and settle down to a smooth idle after 30 seconds from a cold start. Leaking intake manifold gaskets are one of the most common issues, especially after five or more years. Test by squirting some brake cleaner around base of manifold while idling and listen for rise in revs. Intake gasket could also be leaking BETWEEN the two cylinders, especially if the heads have been ported, as the gasket is very narrow there. Good luck!
Yikes, that's a lousy sounding motor. Reminds me a bit of a motor with weak ignition components on a wet day. Valves and air leaks are surely possibilities.
Right? It does sound horrible! We get to the bottom of it...