Bring back memories of my dad and I rebuilding VW's all the time. He owned a business doing mechanical and body work on VW and occasionally a Porsche for years!!!!! Loving this series!!! Really enjoy your channel!!!!
Franny - I assume the nuts were replaced and the old nylon insert nuts discarded? And what about the crack in the original head? No problem? I hope not. BTW, my wife sees me watching your channel and asked, "Are you actually learning automotive mechanics from a woman?" (She knows I don't trust any mechanic but myself) I told her that if I had to trust someone else to work on my Porsche, Franny would be at the top of the list.
I may have missed it but is there not a gasket that goes between the head and and the cylinder or does it get mounted "metal on metal"? Great series - can't wait to see it running and what your final assessment is of the problem that started this all! Was it a bad head? Did the machine shop repair the crack? Was the crack in the head the culprit? So many questions!! Love your thorough work - cleaning both carbs, having both heads redone, etc. I am of the opinion "while I am in there why not do it all and minimize problems down the road"!
David, there is no gasket, so yes, metal on metal. Keep tuning in. There are all sorts if pieces to this puzzle. I will have Franny address the crack in her next video. It seems to be a common question. Heidi
Franny !! you re like a TV serie cutting off right before the sweet part ( the glory of all that work ) of a season ( hard labor ). Well ok I guess it should have a tube on it own. Great work Well done All the best guy s SoulDave
I always used new pushrod tubes, cheap insurance, there used to be spring loaded tubes available also, kind of looks like that's what you have. Blue Locktight will come off fairly easily, it's the red that's an issue, heat is necessary for it and the heat the engine generates will make the blue strength dissipate over time. Glad to see you replaced the nuts and washers, almost sop. To me any crack especially in a head or block is verboten, must replace.
Awww your instagram was a tease.. I thought we were going to hear it run. Great video though. Love seeing this engine go back together. Keep up the great work.
Great video! Again very informative! I was surprised to see two different sequences of for the initial low torque and higher torque. The torque figure seemed a little low at first, but makes perfect sense once you take into account the different expansion of the pushrods and the rest of the engine. I was also wondering if the original torque spec was in Newtonmeter. If you do the conversion, it works out to 10, 20 and 30 Newtonmeter.
Getting close. Love the use of Marvel Mystery Oil (I use it on occasion also - old school but it seems to work for me too). I may have missed it but I presume the small hairline crack that seemed to be in one head was a non-issue. Thanks for doing this series.
I LOVE what you're doing here! I used to drag race Type I VWs back in the late 1970s and WOW, this stuff brings back mems! I have to say that when ever I went this deep into one of my engines, I just pulled it all the way out of the car. Of course, I was always working with a Beetle sedan and only could lust after a Beck in my dreams. LOL (I still have a lust for one of these) I can see that the Beck has a lot more room than a sedan so, maybe that's why you decided to leave the engine in. ... I don't know. Anywho... once I got used to pulling an engine, they came out and went back in SOOOOOO easily it was just immoral to do it any other way. Then all the work was done right up on the bench where my aching back could catch a break. So, I have a question... WHY did you not trash those heater boxes and just put in J-tubes? The car does NOT have a working heater anyway...right? J-tubes would be just the ticket in a situation like that. At least it seems to me it would be that way. BTW, I used to torque my heads to the first step (I don't remember the value) then I would torque the other side head to the same value. My feeling was that torquing one side to full tight might distort the case given that the VW case is split in the middle. This may have been an old wive's tale but it made me feel better to do it that way.
I did come this close to pulling the engine... It is a bit of a pain in this car though. Ahhh, the heater boxes/J-tubes... I am sooo with you! Those boxes were installed by a previous owner in the hopes of adding heat. We look at removing them, but we were worried that the muffler would need to be re-fitted and there was the issue of sourcing the parts. The owner opted not to. Sounds like I could have used your help on this one! Sounds like you would love something like this!
Absolutely excellent video series, thank you. Where can one buy the pivoting ratchet handle used around the 10 minute mark, with the green handle, I need one of those!
I was wondering why flat side of the washers toward the head? I would think that the flat edge would have a cutting action on the aluminum. Of course i am just guessing... thanks.
Great video. What was the outcome of the cracked head? Did you replace the head or was a repair possible? I personally would not use locktite on the heads, but if that's what the owner wanted. Well, it's his car... Looking forward to seeing it run!
I don't think the Locktite on the head bolts is going to buy you anything. If I remember the Locktite data sheet, heating to about 150 degrees is the recommended temperature to break the seal to disassemble a Locktited fastener. I suspect the heads will achieve that temperature in operation. The nylon in the Nylock nut is good for about 500 degrees. They should hold tight without Locktite.
I believe the older 36hp Type 1 engines had copper rings, but the newer engines were metal on metal (well, steel on aluminum). Like an Al crush washer on an oil plug ;)
Franny does not ‘hack’ anything. You are making an assumption about something that perhaps she did not communicate clearly enough. Why do you think that and maybe I can clarify. Heidi
@@HeidiandFranny Like, I wrote before about that engine who ever built that engine cut corners to save money. The engine is missing very important cooling tins. Franny needs to do more research to see and understand what I mean. Those heater boxes need to be replaced with J-tubes pipes.
In episode#6, We get the heads back this beast!
John Muir's How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive: amzn.to/2L1BtWL
Heidi and Franny's Garage nice tutorials
Heidi and Franny's Garage The moment before start up after all that work , will the adrenaline be flowing or just another day at the office vibe ?
I didn't see any head gaskets
My compliments. I especially like the camera work and commentary.
Love the series.......Maybe I missed it----I'm curious what the machine shop said about the crack in the head that you observed
The machinist thought the crack was not an issue. I go over it more in the next episode. F
So close!! Get that next vid up!
Can't wait to see how she runs after all that work, but you cliffhangered us Franny! That's mean, lol!
Check out instagram.
Ok Franny......... I’m hooked. Waiting on episode 7. Great video!
Really enjoy your work, so methodical.
Really enjoyed all seven episodes. You make it look easy & fun. Thanks so much for the informative shows. You Rock!
great job, congratulations! for more series like this o/
Bring back memories of my dad and I rebuilding VW's all the time. He owned a business doing mechanical and body work on VW and occasionally a Porsche for years!!!!!
Loving this series!!!
Really enjoy your channel!!!!
Thanks so much!
Another great video!
I love your videos!!! Keep them going!!!
Franny - I assume the nuts were replaced and the old nylon insert nuts discarded? And what about the crack in the original head? No problem? I hope not. BTW, my wife sees me watching your channel and asked, "Are you actually learning automotive mechanics from a woman?" (She knows I don't trust any mechanic but myself) I told her that if I had to trust someone else to work on my Porsche, Franny would be at the top of the list.
Affirmative. The machinist thought the crack was not an issue. I go over it more in the next episode. F
Great work again and beautifully shot and explained. Really enjoying this series Franny, love it.
Thanks so much Jeff! So excited to see your Beetle final assembly!
great camera work!
Great video keep up!
Great job Franny
Great video! I can't wait for VLOG #7
As usual, another fantastic video girls! Keep it up!
Fantastic job!
Awesome video.
Just found your channel. Love love love your videos. 550 is my dream car and watching you work on yours is inspiring for sure.
Welcome! Poke around a bit. Lots of different content here :)
Outstanding
Happy thanksgiving lady’s. Thanks for the videos. Garage switch going in 996 this weekend.
2002 996 C2
I may have missed it but is there not a gasket that goes between the head and and the cylinder or does it get mounted "metal on metal"? Great series - can't wait to see it running and what your final assessment is of the problem that started this all! Was it a bad head? Did the machine shop repair the crack? Was the crack in the head the culprit? So many questions!! Love your thorough work - cleaning both carbs, having both heads redone, etc. I am of the opinion "while I am in there why not do it all and minimize problems down the road"!
David, there is no gasket, so yes, metal on metal. Keep tuning in. There are all sorts if pieces to this puzzle. I will have Franny address the crack in her next video. It seems to be a common question. Heidi
Franny !! you re like a TV serie cutting off right before the sweet part ( the glory of all that work ) of a season ( hard labor ). Well ok I guess it should have a tube on it own.
Great work Well done All the best guy s SoulDave
I always used new pushrod tubes, cheap insurance, there used to be spring loaded tubes available also, kind of looks like that's what you have. Blue Locktight will come off fairly easily, it's the red that's an issue, heat is necessary for it and the heat the engine generates will make the blue strength dissipate over time. Glad to see you replaced the nuts and washers, almost sop. To me any crack especially in a head or block is verboten, must replace.
I’ve found your videos about the 550 fascinating. Very well done.
Thanks so much!
Awww your instagram was a tease.. I thought we were going to hear it run. Great video though. Love seeing this engine go back together. Keep up the great work.
Sorry Tim,... That was like 10 hours boiled down to 23min or so... Next episode won't disappoint ;)
Yeah I can only imagine the amount of content you have to capture to come up with all that you have. Really looking forward to more.
I hope the 20th edition of John Muir's manual references this wonderful video series!
I love that book!
Oh the suspense, I was hoping you were going to start the car and take us for a drive, nice job Franny!
10 hours into 23 minutes. Next one. Promise.
Nice Clip Hallo from germany
Hey! I think I have that very same 2x4 with white paint! When I saw you using it, I had to make sure mine wasn’t missing. 😁
Yep, very sneaky.
Argh Franny ! totally wanted to see this thing running. Make sure you get plenty of shots of her running in the next VLOG :)
Check out instagram for a sneak peak.
Also check the piston height to top of sleeve .should be ok since you didn't build the motor
👍 👍 👍!!!
You can work on my car anytime. So neat and tidy so skillfull and informative and so calm , excellent job
Wow, thanks!
Fantastic love this but what about the crack, did they fix it or was it not a problem? Really looking forward to seeing this run 👍
The machinist thought the crack was not an issue. I go over it more in the next episode. F
Great video! Again very informative! I was surprised to see two different sequences of for the initial low torque and higher torque. The torque figure seemed a little low at first, but makes perfect sense once you take into account the different expansion of the pushrods and the rest of the engine. I was also wondering if the original torque spec was in Newtonmeter. If you do the conversion, it works out to 10, 20 and 30 Newtonmeter.
Ahhh Of course! Makes total sense. I think I need to start using NM. Thanks!
Getting close. Love the use of Marvel Mystery Oil (I use it on occasion also - old school but it seems to work for me too). I may have missed it but I presume the small hairline crack that seemed to be in one head was a non-issue. Thanks for doing this series.
Correct.
Good :)
I LOVE what you're doing here! I used to drag race Type I VWs back in the late 1970s and WOW, this stuff brings back mems!
I have to say that when ever I went this deep into one of my engines, I just pulled it all the way out of the car. Of course, I was always working with a Beetle sedan and only could lust after a Beck in my dreams. LOL (I still have a lust for one of these) I can see that the Beck has a lot more room than a sedan so, maybe that's why you decided to leave the engine in. ... I don't know.
Anywho... once I got used to pulling an engine, they came out and went back in SOOOOOO easily it was just immoral to do it any other way. Then all the work was done right up on the bench where my aching back could catch a break.
So, I have a question... WHY did you not trash those heater boxes and just put in J-tubes? The car does NOT have a working heater anyway...right? J-tubes would be just the ticket in a situation like that. At least it seems to me it would be that way.
BTW, I used to torque my heads to the first step (I don't remember the value) then I would torque the other side head to the same value. My feeling was that torquing one side to full tight might distort the case given that the VW case is split in the middle. This may have been an old wive's tale but it made me feel better to do it that way.
I did come this close to pulling the engine... It is a bit of a pain in this car though. Ahhh, the heater boxes/J-tubes... I am sooo with you! Those boxes were installed by a previous owner in the hopes of adding heat. We look at removing them, but we were worried that the muffler would need to be re-fitted and there was the issue of sourcing the parts. The owner opted not to. Sounds like I could have used your help on this one! Sounds like you would love something like this!
Hope you do a review once you are done with the wrenching
That was the ORIGINAL plan. Lol. ;)
Absolutely excellent video series, thank you. Where can one buy the pivoting ratchet handle used around the 10 minute mark, with the green handle, I need one of those!
Harbor freight.
Were those studs 10mm? Because that torquing spec is related to them, instead of 18ft-lb for 8mm studs.
Isn’t there a gasket or seal between the cylinder and the head?
Franny, what is your opinion about the quality of this replica car? What would you change?
I would change the engine. Upgrade suspension, rear brakes, and a 356 engine. The car has good bones though. 85%. Not sure about the transmission....
Did anyone notice the rockers swapped .
Great video. Was the crack no big deal? Do you check the compression/leak down again just to compare? Thanks.
The machinist thought the crack was not an issue. I go over it more in the next episode. No to the leakdown. F
I was wondering why flat side of the washers toward the head? I would think that the flat edge would have a cutting action on the aluminum. Of course i am just guessing... thanks.
Hi Akk, more around sealing I believe... The bottom four studs are in the oil bath of the valves.
Great video. What was the outcome of the cracked head? Did you replace the head or was a repair possible?
I personally would not use locktite on the heads, but if that's what the owner wanted. Well, it's his car...
Looking forward to seeing it run!
Yeah, The machinist thought the crack was not an issue. I go over it more in the next episode. F
the head that had the crack; did you have to replace it or could it be fixed?
The machinist thought the crack was not an issue. I go over it more in the next episode. F
I don't think the Locktite on the head bolts is going to buy you anything. If I remember the Locktite data sheet, heating to about 150 degrees is the recommended temperature to break the seal to disassemble a Locktited fastener. I suspect the heads will achieve that temperature in operation. The nylon in the Nylock nut is good for about 500 degrees. They should hold tight without Locktite.
Good points. I wouldn't have bothered myself either.
Q: No gaskets between the head and the cylinders?
No there aren’t.
I believe the older 36hp Type 1 engines had copper rings, but the newer engines were metal on metal (well, steel on aluminum). Like an Al crush washer on an oil plug ;)
Have you used the Loctite sticks?
No, I did not know about them. I will have to check out! Thanks.
Heidi and Franny's Garage it will change your life :)
RCTID cool.
Heidi and Franny's Garage Loctite 506166 Blue Medium Strength Threadlocker Stick, 9-gram www.amazon.com/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c8fEBbWM042F3
Nothing worse than a Flopping header. ! 😮
It's sad you're putting the engine together the hack way again. It will not last long. All that hard work for nothing.
Franny does not ‘hack’ anything. You are making an assumption about something that perhaps she did not communicate clearly enough. Why do you think that and maybe I can clarify. Heidi
@@HeidiandFranny
Like, I wrote before about that engine who ever built that engine cut corners to save money. The engine is missing very important cooling tins. Franny needs to do more research to see and understand what I mean. Those heater boxes need to be replaced with J-tubes pipes.
Franny has already discussed with the owner. She is working within his constraints. So, hands are tied on this one. She agrees with you.