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How Machine Washable Wool Works
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- čas přidán 16. 08. 2024
- Ever wonder how machine washable wool manages to be machine washable? Or why untreated wool felts in the first place? 🤔
As always. Science to the rescue!
University of Nottingham, Nanoscale and Microscale Research Centre (nmRC):
www.nottingham...
/ urn:li:activity:717793...
The Reason Polyester Clothes Get So Stinky: • The Reason Polyester C...
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References:
(1) Under the Microscope - The University of Nottingham. www.nottingham...
(2) Wool fibre structure and properties. Science Learning Hub. www.sciencelea...
(3) Hassan, M. M.; Carr, C. M. A Review of the Sustainable Methods in Imparting Shrink Resistance to Wool Fabrics. J. Adv. Res. 2019, 18, 39-60. www.sciencedir...
(4) Rachel Makinson. Wikipedia; 2023. en.wikipedia.o...
(5) Allen, N. Textile Physics and the Wool Industry: An Australian Woman Scientist’s Contribution. Agric. Hist. 1993, 67 (1), 67-77. www.jstor.org/...
(6) Superwash. Woolpower. woolpower.se/e...
(7) Shrinkproofing Wool: A Quick Primer. The Wool Channel. www.thewoolcha...
(8) LabosNakties. What’s wrong with washable wool? Medium. / what-s-wrong-with-wash...
(9) What is machine-washable wool: ‘Superwash’ and more sustainable solutions. Manteco. manteco.com/wh... (accessed 2024-05-05).
(10)Wool readily biodegrades in marine environments. www.wool.com/n...
(11) agresearch. Microfibre Pollution and the Marine Biodegradation of Wool. Biproducts Fibre Technol. Res. Case Study. iwto.org/wp-co...
(12)Shen, J.; Rushforth, M.; Cavaco-Paulo, A.; Guebitz, G.; Lenting, H. Development and Industrialisation of Enzymatic Shrink-Resist Process Based on Modified Proteases for Wool Machine Washability. Enzyme Microb. Technol. 2007, 40 (7), 1656-1661. doi.org/10.101... www.sciencedir...
(13)Wang, L.; Yao, J.; Niu, J.; Liu, J.; Li, B.; Feng, M. Eco-Friendly and Highly Efficient Enzyme-Based Wool Shrinkproofing Finishing by Multiple Padding Techniques. Polymers 2018, 10 (11), 1213. www.mdpi.com/2...
(14)Klepp, I. G.; Laitala, K. Washing Clothes. In The Routledge History of Fashion and Dress, 1800 to the Present; Routledge, 2023. www.taylorfran...
I lovw these deep dives into the science of textiles. Thank you.
I am so happy people enjoy them! I really enjoy working on them too. 🥰
Very happy to hear care and cleaning of wool garments. I remember my grandmother having wool skeins with the yarn spread out hang to dry on her back porch. When I inquired about it, she said she had undone and old garment and was rinsing out the kinks before knitting it into something else. This was maybe 50 some years ago now. I was impressed that wool could be reused in that way.🎉
It is a really amazing fibre! So versatile. ❤️
I’ve recently heard more about this topic, and a lot of excitement around “closed” treatment loops, with a focus in jeeping as much of the treatment out of the ecosystem as possible. Would be really, super interesting to test that super-wash-washing-water though, and monitor how the materials degrade as the item experiences normal wear & tear.
Sooo much interesting science waiting to happen! And yes, closed loop systems are really interesting. 👀
Interesting topic. All the same: I don't need my socks to be flame retardant, or waterproof; I do need them to be washable, and even hand-washing shrinks socks, as I've learned the hard way.
I will no longer be impressed with washable wool as I actively search out natural fibers and did not realize how it was made.😢 Thank you, I love your voice, very nice to listen to.😊
I remember when you mentioned in an earlier video that machine-washable wool is coated in plastic. I was so upset when I heard that! I felt lied to by the fashion industry. I’m glad you did this video to explain more and maybe let other people know about a source of plastic they might not know that they’re consuming.
Thank you for such an informative video
I am glad you liked it!
I have been anticipating a video on this topic! So very interesting. I loved learning all about the rayon/tencel production in your last textile research video and this is even more interesting and valuable for me to learn about since natural animal fibers are my favorite to work with! I felt very much duped by the superwash lovers when i first became deeply involved with wool knitting and i regrettably have many skeins of Superwash wool i need to use or find homes for that just dont bring me as much joy as natural wool. Thanks so much!
I have wanted to do a video on this topic for a long time! It is something a lot of people just aren’t aware of, sadly.
This is a very insightful video. I'm grateful for the SEM pictures they are very helpful.
They were such a treat! It was so much fun to get them from the nmRC! 😊
A couple years ago I spent a lot of money to get to custom tailored wool skirts, and I loved them so much. I was surprised when I went to read the fabric care instructions that it was not in fact 100% wool, but a super wash wool and polyester blend 😭
Oh no! So common, sadly. 😭
This may be a stupid question, but still. I guess most of the wool and especially merino hiking clothes from brands like Icebreaker and many others are superwash treated. From my own experience I would say that these garments are the best ones for hikes, that I tested. They will take a lot longer to get stinky than other fibers I hiked in (cotton, and various plastics). They also don't feel as cold when wet (especially with a sweaty back under your rucksack). So I'm a bit sceptical that it removes all of wools great properties. I mean it is not as good as untreated wool, but a lot better than cotton or plastic. At the same time for a sweaty shirt under rucksack (so with quite a bit of friction) treating it against felting seems useful, not just for washing but for wearing. So what is your opinion regarding these kinds of garments
I agree, those products are amazing and last very long. Lately I have switched to products from the Danish brand Dilling, who don't use the standard superwash but use alternative methods depending on the type of fabric (e.g. the enzyme one). So far, I like them a lot, although I haven't tried their equivalent to Icebreaker sport range, nor have I used them in tough conditions.
As far as I know, the Swiss Hocosa and the German Engel Natur do not use any superwash-like treatment, but I haven't tried enough of their producs for a definite verdict (athough: the Engel wollfleece jacket is, even when a little heavier than a normal jacket, absolutely great).
Oh, it retains some of the warmth, to be sure. But so many of the other features that makes wool so amazing are seriously diminished. And certainly better than synthetic fibres for long hikes!
@@annaapple7452I have some Dilling items too, and wash them in wash bags (cotton) to minimise their slight tendency to felt. A quick iron when they have air dried gets them back to a normal look and feel again. I have some items from other brands that I'm pretty sure, given their resistance to pilling and to felting must be regular superwashed with all that entails, but they're still nicer to wear than full-on synthetics. As this stuff reaches the end of it's useful life I'm phasing it out in favour of garments from brands which are REALLY making the effort rather than those which are, in my opinion, scamming their customers with false claims and lying by omission. It's very difficult to substantiate any feelings one may have about particular brands simply because of the lack of honesty and transparency in the modern textile and fashion industry.
It's a bummer that the methods to make it machine washable are so harmful but most untreated wool I touched itched like crazy (I have very sensitive skin so I might be the problem lol) and the softer yarns are very hard to find. Hope they make it both water resistant, machine washable and soft.
Loved the video and if you know brands that sell untreated wool I would love to know, I buy from a spanish website and although they do have some it's hard to find, especially because they don't have a tag for them so every type of wool appears the same until you read the whole description.
Maybe a video about where to buy nice yarn could be interesting 😄
It can be quite difficult to find for sure! I have two Norwegian spinneries that I like (Hillesvåg and Rauma).
Do you block your knits after finishing them? That can make a huge difference. Or even just wearing a softer undershirt. But some people just find wool itchy no matter what, and that can be terribly frustrating!
@@KristineVike My grandparents let me borrow some of their sweaters and they would give me huge rashes where it touched my skin directly (mostly the neck). I have only made one cotton cardigan and currently finishing a wool vest but it's superwash so I can't tell much.
Last week I went to a medieval fair where they sold 100% untreated wool but it was coarse so I bet it would give me rashes too.
But no, I don't usually block as I mostly made socks and I didn't feel like they needed it. I will probably block the vest I am working on as it is very stretchy and could open at the gaps of the button band.
AN EYE OPENER of information on wool fabric and garments... I often wondered how to avoid shrinking of garments after washing them... thank you so much for this information..
Josefina Mcarty. greetings from South Florida U S A
Very interesting indeed... Thank you Kristine.
Glad you enjoyed it! 😊
I wiiiish indie dyers would use non-superwash bases more often. I know why they do it, you achieve much more vibrant colours with the same amount of dye on superwash yarn… (plus some things like speckling etc) but yeah, the result in wear is often disappointing, the garment loses it’s shape so quickly, not as breathable, not as warm.
Same! Luckily, some of the indie dyers close to us do a bit of both, so I can secure some of that for projects. Bit the selection is often less.
I entirely agree!
Thank you for this very informative video. I shall take great care to buy only untreated wool in future!
I am glad you found it useful!
Thank you for using your platform to reveal the truths behind "superwash" wool.
Very sad that the only "safe" wool for us folks with wool-on-skin allergies isn't genuinely wool anymore.
It is a challenging balance to be sure, and why it is important to remember that individual circumstances are always nuanced.
@@KristineVike maybe I should be asking this in discord, but, here's some serious algorithm food anyway...
When choosing fiber content and weave type for undergarments, if one is having a skin-reactive sensitive time of it, is there something that is both silk soft and breathable?
I tried asking others, but, they're all Team Linen. I have some soft linen, and usually wear one of those garments but, there's days when they feel too rough.
@@catherinejustcatherine1778for a base layer, a cotton mesh might be your best bet. Softness of the cotton + holes so the fabric doesn’t soak as much water/dries faster. (Or cotton-linen blend if linen is too rough by itself- it will get softer with use and washes though).
For other uses, it will depend, but also there are many different wools, and sometimes the itching/irritation is not allergy, only a physical reaction to the harder fibers sticking out. Some mohairs that feel very soft to my hand are like needles on my neck, for example. If that’s the case there might be some wools that are suitable for you, or if the irritation is only in certain places you can put juste a little bit of soft fabric there (typically neck band and cuffs, sometimes the soft side of the elbow). There is no universal solution but if you manage to pinpoint exact what issues you have/what you want and for what, there are a number of things to try.
@@saulemaroussault6343 the bit about it being a physical irritant is an excellent thing to know. Is there a place that rates different wools?
Very useful suggestions. I do find some of the cotton jersey knits delightfully soft, but, cannot count on the consistency thereof.
The overclock stitch (in reused fabric) can be as phenomenally itchy as some wool. So, perhaps it is skin irritation.
@@catherinejustcatherine1778 sadly no, not really. Best you can do is ask around, and test the fabrics/yarns on your skin (on the elbow or the neck) if you can, to judge by yourself. Or as I said, put a softer fabric patch. Some baby alpaca, some very fine wools, some worsted fabrics (woven with fine yarn that’s very tightly twisted, so it’s very smooth, though not as warm because it doesn’t trap as much air), a high quality cachemire (cheaper ones are not as fine + the short fibers pill easily)… Some woolen yarns are pretty rough in the skein but soften a lot with the first wash, but you’d have to find a way to test it before bying.
Also cotton-wool blends ?
Some people are genuinely allergic to lanolin, and this would explain why they react less heavily processed wool, since it has been completely stripped of it. Some creams contain lanolin (baby barrier creams mostly, but there are others) so it would be relatively easy to test.
The physical reaction is more frequent though ? From what I gathered. (And of course it could be a combination)
Thank you for this. I asked the big US company whose name begins with a "C" about clarification on the superwash process some time ago and got nowhere with them. I heard a lot about but resisted using this processed wool yarn for a long time until one day I wanted to make a baby blanket for a gift and finally gave in. I hand washed it before giving and found the wool behaved very strangely. It sort of grew and got fuzzy while wet. This made me worry about how long it would last (after all of my hard work!) but I gave it anyway. Last year I spent big bucks buying superwash yarn for a blanket as a birthday present to myself. I think that will be the last after watching your video!
Thank you for sharing all this information with us.
I love these kinds of videos. I learned so much about wool I didn't know. Also your voice and way of speaking are really soothing and calming to listen to.
Thank You so much!
I had no idea about the repercussions it takes to make wool washable. This explains the decline of oder resistance I’ve been noticing in my e.g. Icebreaker wool garments over the past year!
What a terrible truth, and how shocking that it is not transparent to the consumer that, we are again putting plastic to our skin.
If it is one thing the garment industry is not, it is transparent, sadly. :/
I made my first sweater (with all over color work 😢) out of super wash wool and regret it. It didn't have the same feel or wear as plain wool at all and just feels loose and sloppy. I find super wash okay for socks, but anything else I use plain wool to get all the benifits it provides to knit garments.
The most devastating kind of experience. All those crafting hours. 🥲
I love wool socks, I wear nearly exclusively thin wool socks. Unfortunately, they are machine washable and I'm looking for options in a similar thickness to cotton socks. I also keep wondering how wool stockings and hose were washed before. I assume they were, because athlete's foot *sucks*, but I'd love to be able to wash my socks appropriately when I find untreated 100% wool socks.
Also still looking forward to a guide on how to keep pet hair from embedding into wool clothing. I have a ragdoll, everything is white and floofy.
super interesting, thank you for sharing!
As a spinner, weaver, knitter, etc., I detest the stuff. I count on felting action in my work to give me tighter fabrics and higher resolution patterns. I plan it in the size, I full by hand, and even the yarn guage is made with microweave/stitch results in mind. Even in unfulled looser weaves a little action can help snag proof the material.
Thank you so much for teaching us about the plastic-ization of wool. I always had the problem of treated wool socks smelling just like my other socks, even though I bought them with the hope that “100% wool” doesn’t absorb smells. I had my suspicions. Thanks for the info! 🙏🏽🧶💗🐑
So devastating when you find out something is not what you thought!
Omgdness Kristine, thank you so much for this, I’m just starting to venture into natural fibres! Thank you so much for this info, I had no idea! Isn’t it funny how we think we are more intelligent now with all our tech and yet really it’s killing us! I recently bought washable wool to knit my first pair of socks! I’m disappointed now that they won’t have the wool properties I was hoping for! But I’m glad I know now. It’s 100% wool for me all the way now! 😊
Thanks for this video, i thought I knew about this topic but this video not only gave more info, it cleared up misconceptions i had before. Love your channel, wish there was more like yours!
This is such good information, and it explains so much. I will be limiting my use of machine wash wool entirely.
Great assessments. Thank you so much.
I see this AFTER I finished getting all my wool for my project, good to know for the future though
We don’t know what we don’t know. Be kind to yourself. ❤️
An excellent presentation, thank you!
I am glad you think so!
Super interesting, will pass this one on to others!
I am glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you! No more *smart* wool for me. I''ll get my knitting needles out, and finish that pair of socks. By the way, love the sweater you are wearing!
Brilliant video thank you
We all know that kitties are the best type of wool. Very soft, very smooth, and self-washing.
I disagree with the claim that their difference to other types of wool is merely technical.
So interesting, thank you ❤❤❤
Takk for informative og lærerike videoer ☺️
Very interesting, thank you.
Hi, unfortunately, I'm allergic to Lanolin, so real wool is not a fibre option for me, even if I wanted to use it for other people my skin says nope.😢 but it's a fascinating it know what they do to a natural fibre to make this not so natural wool. Thank you for sharing your research and knowledge. ❤
Great video! Thank you for explaining it all in so much detail!
I am glad you found it helpful!
I’m so glad I never bought machine washable wool. I prefer the natural wool after my accident as a child where my jumper was scorched by the bar heater that was behind me. Mom came running in when she smelt burning hair to find my back smouldering and smoking. I did not feel the heat from the heater to this day I have this issue with heat.
I always buy jumpers 2-3 sizes too big for me so that I can wear something under it, I find that if it must be washed I hang it in the shower and let the running water do the work. My new washing machine does have a hand wash cycle which is not too bad so far the items I use to hang in the shower have not shrunk too much at all and still look good. But then they only get washed at the end of winter ready to be put away for the summer months. They get placed on special hangers I made for them and placed out on the washing line to air out and make them smell fresh again.
I have been making shawls in the past few years from plant based fibers mixed with wool and so far I’m pleased with the results.
My 40 yr old thrift store factory wool sweater took some chocolate stains and never came clean. Wool can stain. If it were not already overly mended, I could overdye the stains away. Instead it is my work sweater now.
Great video, thanks!
I just learned about this recently and couldn’t believe that most magical wool is covered in plastic!!
Curious what your thoughts are on Naturetexx plasma or Lanazym treatment to make wool machine washable as a sustainable alternative?
It is very hard to tell. Most “cutting edge” methods tend to be very hard to scale up in my experience. But I remain cautiously optimistic.
@@KristineVike ah makes sense, i’m reaching out to them to try and get some fabric. Do you have any other recommendations for someone who wants to make lightweight merino wool activewear without toxic chemicals and plastic?
Oooooh ive been waiting for this one!!
I love this, thank you so very very much!
I am glad you like it!
This makes me wonder, what is bleached wool like before it gets the polymer bath treatment? Just out of curiosity
i love your videos!
Cool 😀
Would dry cleaning remove the superwash treatment (the resin part) since it’s done with solvents?
No wonder my washable wool hiking socks are ... not really better than my typical cotton socks, except for being thicker.
Oh no, I'd never considered that the resin coating would make it so superwash wool actually can't solve the Baby On Fire conundrum! 😔😔 I've led people astray...
We can only do our best with the information we have. ❤️
Another greit way to freshen wool (any most textiles), is to throw it outside on fresh snow. :)
Oooh, yes! How could I forget! I blame the recent hot weather. But absolutely, a bright, freezing winter day is excellent for cleaning wool!
We don't get snow anymore here in my part of Germany. :(
Only looking for microplastics is such an abuse of buzz words. I am also curious about it the superwash wool produces nano-plastics or polymers in solution.
I also got a comment from a microscopist friend of mine who knows more about the methodology than I do. They said the method/instrument they used wasn’t really appropriate for the application they were studying. So… big yikes all around. 😬