Forget Wood Filler - Do THIS Instead Vid
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- čas přidán 28. 10. 2023
- Hi everyone!
Todays video is a my own method I figured out (kind of with a little tweek) to fill joints and holes etc that always show through, even after filling and painting!
Watch and find out what I do do completely cover them and give a perfect paint finish.
I hope you enjoy it!
If you found this video helpful, please leave a like and a comment.
Enjoy the video
Ryan
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******TOOLS AND MATERIALS USED IN THIS VIDEO******
SANDING DISCS - amzn.to/2FZe1JI
MAKITA ORBITAL SANDER - amzn.to/2TIkUqK
JOINTING COMPOUND FILLER - amzn.to/30AlVD2
'EASY ONE' TWO PART FILLER - amzn.to/45RRLuX
SILK PAINT (EQUIVALENT) - amzn.to/3SiGAbE
*****TOOL I GENERALLY USE******
HYUNDAI HY55 COMPRESSOR - amzn.to/3PwujMm
VIRUTEX AG98F EDGER - amzn.to/3MbHroc
PAINTABLE EDGING - amzn.to/3EniuTK
PAIR OF BESSEY COPY WRATCHET CLAMPS - www.banggood.com/custlink/K3G...
T - TRACKS AS SHOWN ON MY ULTIMATE WORKBENCH - amzn.to/37WKIJd
1.6MM RADIUS - MICRO ROUND CUTTER FOR 1/4" ROUTER TRIMMER - amzn.to/3cTCYW6
MAKITA ROUTER TRIMMER - amzn.to/3JNENDp
SANDING DISCS - amzn.to/2FZe1JI
MAKITA ORBITAL SANDER - amzn.to/2TIkUqK
CTS HOSE KIT - amzn.to/3FCLXIL
MAKITA HOOVER - amzn.to/3cvNl3p
MAKITA CHOP SAW / MITRE SAW (LS1019L) - amzn.to/330BcCF
SCISSOR LIFT/CHOP SAW LIFT - amzn.to/3goeaI
MAKITA ROUTER TRIMMER( MUST HAVE!!! ) - amzn.to/3JNENDp
1/4" FLUTE CUTTER
1.6MM RADIUS - MICRO ROUND CUTTER FOR 1/4" ROUTER TRIMMER - amzn.to/3cTCYW6
JIGSAW - amzn.to/2R9z7em
POWER DRILL - amzn.to/2V2SGWT
MAKITA BELT SANDER - amzn.to/2UWDudW
BOSCH CHOP/MITRE SAW - amzn.to/3dUmyxl
MAKITA BRAD NAILER - amzn.to/2YOuiK0
MITRE FAST SPRAY GLUE - amzn.to/34pvYem
35MM HINGE CUTTER - amzn.to/2POJR09
SIP 10" TABLE SAW - amzn.to/2udA4JU
250mm TREND 48T BLADE - amzn.to/3aq2pgI
KETER FOLDING WORKBENCH (THIS IS A MUST BUY) - amzn.to/2NEWzyk
JOINTING COMPOUND FILLER - amzn.to/30AlVD2
ORBITAL SANDER SANDING DISCS ASSORTED - amzn.to/2FZe1JI
500MM GTV SIDE MOUNTED DRAWER RUNNERS - amzn.to/2sJ6YBU
MAKITA COMBI & IMPACT DRILL SET 18V - amzn.to/37qwNpi
****MY BANGGOOD TOOLS ****
UPGRADED PARALLEL GUIDES - www.banggood.com/custlink/GmD...
ADJUSTABLE TRACK SAW SQUARE - www.banggood.com/custlink/mKv...
HONGDUI CHAMFER PLANE - www.banggood.com/custlink/mDm...
200MM CARPENTERS SQUARE - www.banggood.com/custlink/33K...
300MM PRECISION SQUARE - www.banggood.com/custlink/m3m...
300MM ANGLE T SQUARE - www.banggood.com/custlink/vmK...
600mm ROOFING/CARPENTER SQAURE - www.banggood.com/custlink/D3K...
PAIR OF BESSEY COPY WRATCHET CLAMPS - www.banggood.com/custlink/K3G...
PLUS MORE...
ALUMINIUM HINGE JIG - www.banggood.com/custlink/3vKEQHIQgd
POCKET COMPASS - www.banggood.com/custlink/333...
DRAWER/DOOR HANDLE JIG - www.banggood.com/custlink/KKv...
DRAWER/DOOR HANDLE JIG - www.banggood.com/custlink/3vv...
GUIDE TRACK SAW SQUARE (BUDGET) - www.banggood.com/custlink/KK3...
ATOMSTACK LASER - www.banggood.com/custlink/mDG...
****MY TREND TOOLS****
SMALL FINGER PULL CUTTER - amzn.to/3GAMaAh
MEDIUM FINGER PULL CUTTER - amzn.to/3EqsMD6 (USED IN THIS VIDEO)
LARGE FINGER PULL CUTTER - amzn.to/3OmNZmf
TREND ROUTER TABLE - amzn.to/3TS7Omz
TREND T14 ROUTER - amzn.to/3hZDkl1
TREND T35 HOOVER - amzn.to/3V9Q3jn
****MY SPRAY ROOM TOOLS & MATERIALS****
GRACO 695 ULTRAMAX 2 AIRLESS SPRAYER - amzn.to/2O7HDJp
GRACO 390 PC AIRLESS SPRAYER - amzn.to/2LX0Ufw
GRACO RAC X GUARD - amzn.to/34tVFuo
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GRACO 310 FINE FINISH LOW PRESSURE TIP - amzn.to/2PIMQHC
GRACO 410 FINE FINISH LOW PRESSURE TIP - amzn.to/2spuWSd
SPRAY BOOTH TURNTABLE - amzn.to/35oNj8v
SIP SPACE HEATER - amzn.to/30ADvq9
SPRAY FILTERS ON A ROLL - amzn.to/2TyIlTz
TWIN SLOT SHELVING UPRIGHTS - amzn.to/2uTXapl
TWIN SLOT SHELVING BRACKETS 10 PACK (370MM) - amzn.to/38l76H2
PIPE INSULATION (TO PROTECT SHELVING BRACKETS) - amzn.to/2tjUK37
400MM ADJ SPEED EXTRACTOR FANS - amzn.to/2TCfBJK - Jak na to + styl
Great idea - will definitely come in handy for future projects
Thank you 👍👍
It’s called grinning….always use a decent primer like Zinsser Cover stain over any filler…love your work by the way!
Thank you!!!
Friend of mine years back used car body filler, can’t remember how good it worked??
Yes that would work, but it's likely it'll show through a bit after a sand.
Top tips as always , making me better ! Thank you
I appreciate it, thank you 👍
Thanks Ryan, been watching for a while now. I'm just about to start making a few wardrobes. These tips are going to be invaluable!
Thank you for the nice comment, I appreciate it !
And good luck with the wardrobes 👍
Great idea. I’ll have to try it out on my next cabinet project
Thank you! Yes it works a treat :-)
I didn’t use to work with mdf very much except as a material to make jigs with. However, we have been doing 2nd fix in a large barn and using a lot of oak veneered mdf for window trim, door linings, skirtings. All have been edge in various ways with solid oak. Not matter what you do, you will get gaps in, say, a 2.4m length of edged window trim. As all of this work was stained and finished, we couldn’t use paint. Previously, I have used soft wax on a variety of colours to mimic the various tones of the oak, mixing waxes inch by inch so that you don’t get a line of a constant colour. This method works okay but it is very time consuming and we had over 1km of material to be edged. We still used and use the wax to fill the pin holes left by our 16g and 18g nailers and it ends up being invisible unless you want to go searching.
Our answer was, in fact, several answers. We could machine a dado of only 2mm or so into the solid edge so that any gaps wouldn’t be seen and the edge banding protruded perhaps 6mm. That works very well and looks very good on many areas. Where we were joining a vertical to a horizontal, we actually emphasised the join by machining a small chamfer on each piece so that a v line was created. At only 1 or 2mm deep, the visibility of the substrate was minimal and really practically invisible. The skirting was another issue as we had hundreds of metres of that to make and fit. Our answer was a vertical piece of 19mm veneered mdf first; then a piece of solid oak 25mm x 10mm laid flat on top (protruding that 6mm out from the mdf. Finally, a piece of 30mm x 21mm solid oak on top with the 30mm dimension vertical. The overall effect is that one assumes it’s all solid oak, the protrusions mean that any gaps are not visible and, we think, it’s very pleasing to the eye if you want an Arts and Crafts aesthetic.
Everything was finished in smoked oak Rubio Monocoat. If you don’t know, it’s a 2 pack hard wax oil (the 2 pack element is critical to most of us as it means that it can be handled very quickly allowing workflow to continue and that air dust doesn’t contaminate the boards before they cure. It’s also incredibly expensive per litre. A little does go a long way but it is still eye wateringly expensive per square metre.
Why is it that expensive? Does it have to be (ie cost plus profit) that expensive. The answer turns out to be no.
There are many reasons why a product is expensive. It could be because it is so well made - that’s justifiable. It could be that it’s well made and the makers market it as a premium product and charge a price way above cost plus reasonable profit (I would put Festool in that bracket). It could be a product that does the job but there are cheaper, better alternatives - and I put Woodpecker (with the Veiko range as the cheaper option) and Rubio Monocoat (see below for my alternative) in that bracket.
Since spending a small fortune on Rubio, I found a product called Natura Onecoat. I say found but it would be more truthful to say that I watched a YT video by the Wood Whisperer in which he compared various HWO. His overall recommendation was Natura. Unfortunately, Natura is not widely available yet on the UK but I’m told it’s coming soon. It is however available in the US and, through a friend, I got some. It’s 2 pack; it’s in a variety of colours and, from my testing, I would say that it is much more user-friendly than Rubio. I don’t think the cure time and Sheen levels are markedly different. What is incredibly different is the cost. Cost per litre and cost per square metre. A fraction of the cost of Rubio. I can’t wait until it is more easily available here on the UK. If you want to know more, I would suggest that you contact the Natura people at info@naturaonecoat.com. They seem very nice people - and I should add, for those careful cynics, that I have no commercial relationship with Natura or their people at all. Just someone who is tired of paying the prices that are set by bean counters and marketeers.
Great information here, thank you for sharing !!
Ryan
Hello Ryan, I've been watching your video's. I would like make a suggestion could you make a video as how do you measure paints or what measurements you make before spray painting on MDF.many thanks
Thank you!!
To be honest it's a feeling I have. I've sprayed so many things that I can judge/ estimate how much just by the size of it etc. I never work out the area or anything like that. I'm not sure how I could show that in a video, even though I know this kind of video would be helpful.
Cheers ryan
One filler that works for chipped paint and seams is Toupret TX-140 (Skim Flex). It was designed to stick to tiles, is slightly flexible but also sands to a perfect feather edge. It s takes 24H to dry, but is worth it. Try it, you might be surprised
Thank you I will do!
Great tip thanks !!!!
No problem, and cheers Michael 👍 🙂
Hold on your finish topcoat is silk emuslion? going on MDF? not heard that one before - very interesting.
Yes, it works, been doing this for 10 years + and no reason to change.
Ryan
Why don’t you just lightly chamfer both edges of the join before joining together, then fill the miniature v groove with 2 pack filler, then sand and paint, works every time 👍🏽
I suppose I find that it still will show through (my yellow door was an example) 👍
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop I think the issue is that the filler is often softer than the substrate. during sanding the filler grinds away quicker than the base material leaving a slight depression as a result. You can fill and sand until Spurs win the Premier league but it never works. I often have that same problem you did especially when trying to fill screw holes in but eventually I learned to accept it. I will try your method out as it seems to yield perfect results
I've used Wall fillers, Bondo/Body Filler and sometimes sanitary Epoxy Putty with great results.
Wall filler is softer than wood, Bondo is more or less the same and Epoxy Putty is way harder than wood, So take care to use only where it is required :D
By 2 pack filler you mean automotive fillers right?
@Z-add I guess so, you can buy woodworking or automotive 2 pack filler. I like the automotive as its easier to sand back and ALOT cheaper and get a much bigger tin 👍
It’s possible it’s the technique not just the filler if your dishing then don’t use a folded up bent sheet that’ll help then sand at 45 at least to the line , never sand up stream if you want flat. I’d use a bodywork spay putty or a spray filler primer it’s faster you’ll never get blooms in the finish paint.
But all that said I usually do exactly what you just did 😂
When you say ready mix filler, for those of us not in the UK, what is that exactly ?
A filler you would use for decorating, you can buy pre mixed tubs 👍
Ever thought of using something that is designed as a finish coat for wood? Tikurilia everal aqua sprays amazing through an airless or akzonobel aqualit both waterbased enamels.
To be honest, I have no reason to change. I get amazing finishes this way and its super tough. As they say, if its not broken dont fix it.
@thelondoncraftsman2026 fair play mate if your happy with the finish it's giving you then I completely understand where your coming from and if your customers are happy that's all that matters! 👍🏻 I deffo need to get some silk and give it a go myself
Cheers!
Yeah, I do 3 coats of it.
After first coat, it's a good sand with p240 then 2 top coats.
It's pretty awesome considering it's a budget paint. We'll worth you trying 👍
@thelondoncraftsman2026 will deffo save a lot of money on materials that's 1 thing for sure! Yea I will give it a go sometime 👍🏻
What is it with tradesmen now wearing shower slippers in a workspace. Ive always used unmixed plaster powder to fill in fine lines and never had ot show through after sanding with hand sander not power.
And with socks, shocking!
Good Technique!
Yeah I like my comfort haha
That style is in!! haha
In which postcode is that “in style”!!!!!!!!! 😅@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop
Im a fan of your work. Im always impressed with your attention to detail and quality.
Just wondered though, are you using celling and wall emulsion to spray finish your pieces, or do you use a wood paint? Cheers.
Thank you really appreciate it!
Yes, a silk emulsion, to standard matt emaulion, it has to be silk.
It works a treat, really does, you need to try to believe I suppose.
Sorry, pro painter here, paint NEVER lasts more than a few months, either as a crack or a pinhole filler. When it dries, it doesn't flex enough to keep up with the surface flexing, and it also keeps shrinking over time, latex for months, and anamel for years - the reason we don't use few heavy coats, but put many light coats, one coat covering the "holidays" of the other. You need a backing product to fill the gap, and then primer/paint. It is like for very large cracks on - let's say - concrete, you cannot just fill them just with caulk, you need a backer to support the caulk. Sorry but this is from 35 years of experience, and more important, from going back to old projects over and over to see how they last/behave.
I understand your advice, but ive been doiing this for 20 years now, never once cracked or shown through . Just saying it works for me :-)
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop, I have to learn how fillers and paint behave in humid enviroments. All my experience is the desert-like conditions of Arizona in the US, and the last three summers I have been spending them on an island in Greece which is much, much more humid, and I noticed that all coating behaves differently, not to mention that the materials they use there is very different - they still use oil-based paint on all wood surfaces, which they stopped using here in the US two decades ago. I have a LOT more to learn, which is why I still try to keep working :)
Crazy idea ... why not use a tinted high-build primer
Because not everyone has a tinted High build primer in their workshop and might not want to spend the money on special paint .
@@thelondoncraftsmanworkshop It's not that bad. I keep a rattle can of the white around. $27.00. and it will last for a load of projects. "Dominion Sure Seal 1K High Build Primer." ...