October 22, 2016. 14" Alumacraft on the pond. Motor purchased at Suter's AOMCI meet October 15th 2016. Motor was run as purchased after dialing in carburetor .
Ron Baker Thanks Buddy! I know I took forever (a whole week) for me to get the video done. I couldn't hand start it while holding the camera in one hand either. I just couldn't get the right hold on the flywheel. Oh well, it is a nice running little motor. I'm really happy with it.
Thank you. I agree, this is a nice and fun little motor to run. I was happy to add it to my collection. I need to run it again this year just to keep it going. Thanks for watching!
What a great source of information. I just brought this motor into the shop and is my next project. I believe it is the same motor except mine has the recoil on top. Am looking forward to tearing it down then I'll be asking the questions😁.
Jack Fisher Thanks. Yes, this one seems to have a lot of life left in it. Many of these little 2.5s are really worn and won't idle well. This one idles well and runs quietly. I'm glad to have it. Thanks for watching!
I bought one of those a year ago. It runs but needs a new crankcase gasket because it is leaking. And someone painted it Johnson green. I could be wrong, but I think it should be aluminum like yours. other than that it is pretty good shape. Yours is very nice. The 2 cylinders make them run so smooth compared to the competitors that were 1 cylinder.
Greg Offenback Mine has original paint worn to primer by the throttle on top of the tank. If yours is the same model I believe it is supposed to be silver paint.
Beautifully running engine! I've got my grandpa's I've been rebuilding but can't find any manuals online for this exact engine. Have you taken the lower unit apart where the gears are to see what the type of water pump it has? My grandpa's brother took this apart in the 80's and never got it back together and its missing the water pump.
Porch Front Studios Thank you. Yes, I have had this gearcase open and cleaned and replaced the grease with fresh John Deere Corn Head Grease. The water pump is a piston-type with a spring loaded piston riding on an eccentric on the prop shaft. I do not have a manual for this motor either. You may try posting on the Ask A Member board on AOMCI.org. someone may have a manual they can send you or to download. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for showing your Cool Video of that Vintage Johnson Sea Horse! I recently purchased one identical to that one ! Can't wait to get it up and Breathing Life OnThe Water Again,! Always A Joy Watching Your Informative Videos!
I'm not sure what the parts are that you're looking for. Most parts for these will be used at this point, although there are some new old stock parts that show up for sale occasionally. Thanks for watching!
Hi there. I have a johnson at-10 5 hp motor of same year and it takes grease in the LU as I assume this one does as well. What is the type of grease you use? Or is regular hypo is oil good? Thanks, Matt
Joe Blo Yes, this one takes grease also. I use John Deere Corn Head Grease which is available at your local John Deere dealer. Lubriplate 105 is also suitable for this purpose. It's a bit more expensive but is very good. I have not tried it but some are using the #00 grease that is available at Tractor Supply in a quart bottle and seem to be having good results. Hypoid oil will leak out due to the shaft seals used in these motors. Thanks for watching!
I have the HS 10 and in working on it lost track of spark plug wire goes to which spark plug. One wire has a metal clip on it like yours. Is that the top spark plug wire?
I'd have to look closer at mine again, but I think these use heavy leather gaskets to seal around the shafts. Are you using gear oil or grease in the gearcase? These should have grease in them. I use John Deere Corn Head Grease. Lubriplate 105 also works well, but is a bit more expensive.
Old JohnnyRude Hi there, thanks very much for the reply. I'm using a combination of grease and oil. Hi temp heavy truck bearing grease. And 75-90 gear oil. Not sure if that's the best. I was thinking of just making a new leather seal or the heck with it and just packing the whole unit with grease.
Old JohnnyRude Mine also doesn't idle very good, the needle adjustment by the primer for starting is very sensitive. If you turn it just a bit the motor will stall and the high speed adjustment in the other side doesn't do anything if it's open or closed.
Tim Garec This gearcase is intended to be lubricated with lightweight grease. I would remove the mixture that is in it now and replace it with JD Corn Head Grease and see how it does like that. These will never hold gear oil in the original style seals. Mine drips slightly (maybe a drip or two per week) even with grease in it. A little water gets in, but it will easily drain off after the motor sits for a day or two. You may not need to do anything with the seals using grease. Do not use marine wheel bearing grease. It is much too thick and will not flow into the bushings to lubricate them properly. Tractor Supply Company stores carry "00" grease that seems to work well in non shiftable outboard gearcases as well.
Tim Garec The needle at the primer IS the high speed needle. Mine seems to like to be just under 1/2 turn out from lightly seated to run in 65°-85° weather. A little richer as it gets cooler. The small bent rod on the opposite side is the idle mixture screw. Start with that one about 1 turn open. After getting the high speed dialed in slow the engine down to low speed and slowly in small increments start to turn that screw clockwise. It should start to pick up RPM and smooth out. You may want to lower the speed again and fine tune the low speed for the highest RPM at idle setting, then open slightly to allow the low speed circuit to be slightly rich. That will help prevent the engine from stumbling when the throttle is opened up. Many of these little engines are severely worn and just will not idle well. They tend to be run at WOT most of the time just because they are small and slow. Once the compression falls off or gets uneven, the idle quality will drop off quickly.
Finally! It runs better than ever, What a great purchase.
Ron Baker Thanks Buddy! I know I took forever (a whole week) for me to get the video done. I couldn't hand start it while holding the camera in one hand either. I just couldn't get the right hold on the flywheel. Oh well, it is a nice running little motor. I'm really happy with it.
FANTASTIC buy, congrats !
Thank you. I agree, this is a nice and fun little motor to run. I was happy to add it to my collection. I need to run it again this year just to keep it going. Thanks for watching!
What a great source of information. I just brought this motor into the shop and is my next project. I believe it is the same motor except mine has the recoil on top. Am looking forward to tearing it down then I'll be asking the questions😁.
Ooooo that thing runs so nice and quiet.
Jack Fisher Thanks. Yes, this one seems to have a lot of life left in it. Many of these little 2.5s are really worn and won't idle well. This one idles well and runs quietly. I'm glad to have it. Thanks for watching!
I love that old sweet runningJohnson !
Thank you. It is a nice runner. Thanks for watching!
strong runner for 2.5hp...Quiet and smooth also
kramden This one turned out to be a nice one. Thanks for watching!
I bought one of those a year ago. It runs but needs a new crankcase gasket because it is leaking. And someone painted it Johnson green. I could be wrong, but I think it should be aluminum like yours. other than that it is pretty good shape. Yours is very nice. The 2 cylinders make them run so smooth compared to the competitors that were 1 cylinder.
Greg Offenback Mine has original paint worn to primer by the throttle on top of the tank. If yours is the same model I believe it is supposed to be silver paint.
Wow amazing sounds mint!
Thank you. This is a very nice running little motor. Thanks for watching!
Beautifully running engine! I've got my grandpa's I've been rebuilding but can't find any manuals online for this exact engine. Have you taken the lower unit apart where the gears are to see what the type of water pump it has? My grandpa's brother took this apart in the 80's and never got it back together and its missing the water pump.
Porch Front Studios Thank you. Yes, I have had this gearcase open and cleaned and replaced the grease with fresh John Deere Corn Head Grease. The water pump is a piston-type with a spring loaded piston riding on an eccentric on the prop shaft. I do not have a manual for this motor either. You may try posting on the Ask A Member board on AOMCI.org. someone may have a manual they can send you or to download. Thanks for watching!
Love your videos 👍
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Run great!
Nice Runner!
classicoutboards Thanks Will. I'm pretty happy with this one!
Thanks for showing your Cool Video of that Vintage Johnson Sea Horse! I recently purchased one identical to that one ! Can't wait to get it up and Breathing Life OnThe Water Again,! Always A Joy Watching Your Informative Videos!
Just got one of these from my grandpa bit can't find out if any parts are the right kind online.
I'm not sure what the parts are that you're looking for. Most parts for these will be used at this point, although there are some new old stock parts that show up for sale occasionally. Thanks for watching!
Its a nice one !!!!!!!
1957evinrude Thanks! It's a fun little motor.
Hi there. I have a johnson at-10 5 hp motor of same year and it takes grease in the LU as I assume this one does as well. What is the type of grease you use? Or is regular hypo is oil good? Thanks, Matt
Joe Blo Yes, this one takes grease also. I use John Deere Corn Head Grease which is available at your local John Deere dealer. Lubriplate 105 is also suitable for this purpose. It's a bit more expensive but is very good. I have not tried it but some are using the #00 grease that is available at Tractor Supply in a quart bottle and seem to be having good results. Hypoid oil will leak out due to the shaft seals used in these motors. Thanks for watching!
thanks! much appreciated
I have one too but have not messed with it yet.
what did you run in this for oil and rate? sae30 at 16:1? or 24:1
yucandy0711 I run this motor on 16:1 ratio gasoline to TCW-3 water-cooled 2-stroke outboard oil. Thanks for watching!
I have the HS 10 and in working on it lost track of spark plug wire goes to which spark plug. One wire has a metal clip on it like yours. Is that the top spark plug wire?
Yes, the clip indicates the wire for the top cylinder spark plug. Great little motors. Good luck with yours amd thanks for watching!
Nice! What year is your boat
Thank you. This is my 1972 Alumacraft FD. This boat now has a '63 Evinrude Big Twin 40hp on it, believe it or not. Thanks for watching!
Hello, I have the same outboard what would you use to replace the shaft seal, mine leaks pretty good.
I'd have to look closer at mine again, but I think these use heavy leather gaskets to seal around the shafts. Are you using gear oil or grease in the gearcase? These should have grease in them. I use John Deere Corn Head Grease. Lubriplate 105 also works well, but is a bit more expensive.
Old JohnnyRude Hi there, thanks very much for the reply. I'm using a combination of grease and oil. Hi temp heavy truck bearing grease. And 75-90 gear oil. Not sure if that's the best. I was thinking of just making a new leather seal or the heck with it and just packing the whole unit with grease.
Old JohnnyRude Mine also doesn't idle very good, the needle adjustment by the primer for starting is very sensitive. If you turn it just a bit the motor will stall and the high speed adjustment in the other side doesn't do anything if it's open or closed.
Tim Garec This gearcase is intended to be lubricated with lightweight grease. I would remove the mixture that is in it now and replace it with JD Corn Head Grease and see how it does like that. These will never hold gear oil in the original style seals. Mine drips slightly (maybe a drip or two per week) even with grease in it. A little water gets in, but it will easily drain off after the motor sits for a day or two. You may not need to do anything with the seals using grease. Do not use marine wheel bearing grease. It is much too thick and will not flow into the bushings to lubricate them properly. Tractor Supply Company stores carry "00" grease that seems to work well in non shiftable outboard gearcases as well.
Tim Garec The needle at the primer IS the high speed needle. Mine seems to like to be just under 1/2 turn out from lightly seated to run in 65°-85° weather. A little richer as it gets cooler. The small bent rod on the opposite side is the idle mixture screw. Start with that one about 1 turn open. After getting the high speed dialed in slow the engine down to low speed and slowly in small increments start to turn that screw clockwise. It should start to pick up RPM and smooth out. You may want to lower the speed again and fine tune the low speed for the highest RPM at idle setting, then open slightly to allow the low speed circuit to be slightly rich. That will help prevent the engine from stumbling when the throttle is opened up. Many of these little engines are severely worn and just will not idle well. They tend to be run at WOT most of the time just because they are small and slow. Once the compression falls off or gets uneven, the idle quality will drop off quickly.
Twin cylinder?
Yes, this is a twin cylinder engine. Thanks for watching!
Run great!
Thank you. This is a very nice running little motor. Beautiful little trolling motor. Thanks for watching!