ive recently upsized my H1C drain to 18mm ID and no longer have smoking issues. i previously had -10an and it would smoke anytime i was high rpm and high vacuum. glad to see you made this video to teach other people too.
Nice job Austin! ...I had an oil pressure issue that I thought might be turbocharger drain related..but I capped off the flow to the turbocharger to quickly check oil pressure and found it was my engine...you're correct..the stock sized (16mm) oil drain back is sufficient...👍
You give great info man! People should pay for this kind of shit i kid you not, knowledge and experience isnt free. Sad that i see negative comments on some of your videos. Keep up the great work! 💯
Thanks for posting this info ! Definitely saved me some parts money xD being new to turbos these are things that only experience and/or research will teach you so, thumbs up to you my good man :)
Extremely helpful. I have an 1999 audi A4 B5 1.8 K03 turbo. Oil everywhere in the crossover tube, intercooler right on up to the throttle body. Fed oil from the oil cooler on the engine at the filter. Everything you said here totally applies to my current stock setup. Time for a new upgraded cartridge I see.
@@jimmiedean8035 the problem is when the turbo breaks, *all* that oil goes through the intercooler to the intake and the diesel engine enters a runaway to destruction; ask me how i know ;i once was able to stop,engage 5th and stall it,but youtube is full of runaway diesels until either the engine breaks,or the oil runs out; restrictors should be mandatory in all diesel turbos,as should intake plenum butterflies, some cars have these; and since i am at it, it should also be mandatory that turbo diesel makers also make half of them NON TURBO; you can't imagine the pleasure of driving a non turbo diesel with the torque available down low at the ready,instead of waiting for the 1600 RPMs; turbos are good for loonies who know no better and demand them,good for racing,good for towing,and good for germany where there are 12000 kms with NO speed limit,300 kph is ok there,not anywhere else.
@@jimmiedean8035 i think that a lot of oil flow to cool it, is needed for racing only; for a grocery getter or to snail drive at 75 mph you don't need a lot of oil flow,am i right? so, when i have oil burning (due ,surely,to high crankcase pressure,due to a hopeless,worn, engine- cyl.and rings-,that the customer can't afford,or want, to repair) i would,and do,use an oil restrictor that i make,altering the inlet bolt; usually 1.5 mm,simply because the 1 mm drills break a lot...)
I love your channel and all the content man! Great stuff! Could I suggest using a mic for audio though? You can get a lavaliere system for $100 and your information will be clearly heard! I had similar problems but I'm in a very small/new channel lol. Thanks for keeping us all informed and I plan on picking up a hybrid Mitsubishi tdo5h 20g from you in the future 👌🔥🔥🔥
First off I really enjoyed the video and gave it a thumbs up. But after watching, something just didnt seem right with the measurements, especially since AN -10 line is supposed to be an equal replacement to 5/8 standard hose so I decided to head out to the garage and measure some fittings and hoses. Heres what I found.... The fitting you measured must have been a very cheaply made -10. A quality -10 has an ID of a little over 1/2" or right around 15mm. I just confirmed this by measuring the -10 fitting for MY drain and it measured out to 14.8mm.I also measured the ID of a piece of 5/8 heater hose and it came out to only 15.8mm. While I doubt that 1mm would make a very large difference in drainage, assuming it would, since there is no pressure on these, it would be perfectly feasible to drill the -10 out to over 16mm and still have an adequate seal for a drain line. This would give it MORE ID than the 5/8 hose you recommended while still allowing people to keep the fittings they have already purchased and to run the braided line that is sometimes needed due to the lines being very close to the exhaust manifold on alot of custom setups. This is the very reason that these AN lines became popular on custom turbo setups in the first place. This video definitely made me think though so Im headed out to drill my fittings now. ;)
Bad Luck Garage im just about to use 7875vsracing turbo on my hsv ls1 so thanks for the input cos i have heard this turbo has bugger all room for the drain fitting and makes me nervous😅
I'm not using the 7875 but will probably upgrade in the future. Currently using a T66 that came on an STS turbo kit that I got for a steal but if you check out my playlist for my turbo C10 you'll see I've chamfered the drain fitting to help flow into the -10 fitting. I completely agree with this channel that you should use the biggest drain possible but sometimes clearance is tight so you gotta make due and just try to help flow wherever you can. Disclaimer: THIS GUY OBVIOUSLY KNOWS WAY MORE ABOUT TURBOS THAN I DO!!! So I would follow his advise whenever possible!but sometimes on custom setups, clearance is an issue. I'm actually having to go ahead and clock my drain line and tighten it to the drain fitting off the turbo, then bolting the assembly to the turbo as an example.
Bad Luck Garage yeah thanks.. will definitely have a watch and look at getting flow best i can. My car is 4door version of your 04 gto so not alot of room in general i will keep you posted.
extremely helpful I never realize you wanted to run as much as possible but I guess it totally makes sense it's the only thing Cooling most Journal bearing turbos.
This is an old video, so not that anyone cares, but the difference in flow between the 10mm hole and the 20mm hole he mentioned is actually 400% more. Doubling the size of a circle's diameter (or radius) will quadruple the area. By reducing your drain from 20mm to 10mm, you are getting 25% of the flow.
That's the answere I was looking for. I have a HX40 and it doesn't have any shaft play but it leaks oil threw the compressor wheel and I didn't know what was going on. I also rebuilt the turbo with a rebuilt kit an the leakage has upset me alot. Now I know where to look and fix the problem:) Awsome:)
I'm doing my ct12b turbo ATM and I'm port matching the oil drain and supply , makes a lot of sense , also you can get leaky seals from running too thinner oil too , as I'm learning on my Hilux Surf 1kzte
I came across this video trying to figure out why there was so much oil in my intercooler pipes after installing a new Cummins/HX35 combo. As I was watching and he said -10an I went SHOOT, that's what I have. So I went and pulled my drain off and measured it, 11mm ID for the tubing, the connections were only 10mm. Measured the stock drain, 18mm. Put the stock 18mm on and WHOLE LEE CURE RAP, that was not only my oil issue, but it was also apparently making my turbo spool MUCH less and MUCH slower. Like an entirely different truck now for something THAT simple. This kinda blows my mind... Thanks so much for making this video...
good video, im going to port out my oil drain i guess. Do you sell or do you know where I can get just the compressor o ring seal for an H1c? I cant seem to find it anywhere without being in a rebuild kit
Poor Man Mods don't do that it is not necessary at all. You should have a restrictor on the oil feed side and your drain line should run at a down ward angle straight to pan with no low spots. I sell Precision, Garrett and Comp turbos and build 1000+ wheel horsepower cars pretty regular and I can tell you that this guy means well but is not giving good info.
As a diesel student I learned that in medium and heavy duty engines the oil feed is directly after the filtering media. Right from the filter base such as on the navistar DT 466 before the engine main journal / crankshaft. Clean unrestricted oil flow at engine oil pressure is called for so , why is there a need in light duty/civilian turbo application to run a fixed orifice (restrictor) on the turbo feed line.
With lines unhooked, If you were to pour oil into the feed port, should it flow through freely or will it slightly sit in there until the turbo is spinning? I’m trying to figure out if my feed is clogged slightly.
i know this video is older but i have a 2003 gti that been experiencing oil blowing problems and a new drain line that i found is clearly smaller than oem so i will replace to oem specs and hope that i dont blow clouds when i step on it and increase the psi and in theory flood my cartridge
I recently purchased 2 ebay gt35 turbos.. Installed as a rear mount setup on a camaro.. From day one one of the turbos would drip black soot from the exhaust port, stop spinning at idle.. lasted about a month before it was pouring oil out... I haven't had any issues with the other turbo.. I'm rebuilding the turbo today, hopefully it will fix the issue.
+Turbo Lab America Very good info about having a big turbo drain, (I run a neon hahn 16G turbo kit S2 with their complete stock drain) also wondering if increase crankcase pressure could also be a source of blue smoke at WOT pull at the 1/4 mile track. it's something i noticed a few times only at the track, but it never smoked before or after on hyw pulls of dailly driven.
I think you'll find every turbo made has a spec oil flow based on volume measured out the return both on cranking and peak torque at running, that has very little to do with pressure. Pressure is a measurement of restriction no reflection on flow, running high oil pressure above what the recommendation of the supplier induces high parasitic drag reducing the turbo response.
I'm wondering if I do this, will it stop the oil from coming out my tailpipe or will I still need to replace the seal? I'm hoping you tell me there's hope for my seal haha
I have a t28 journal bearing turbo on my Toyota celica that was having smoking issues, up sized the drain thinking that was it, maybe I didn’t go big enough, where can I find a rebuild kit to install while it’s out, u confirmed that everyone around me is wrong and I’m actually on the correct path
Can you provide a link to the fitting you're talking about at 10:03? I'm going to be running a tb0363 .52/.48 50 trim/ could you by chance provide recommendations on oil feed and water lines as well? big fan, thank you for all the information you provide.
Should the drain be at least very close to the size of the supply pipe? What also might help is to calculate the pipe surface in mm2 and calculate the impact in terms of surface are lost when the output drain is to small. A loss of 20% might be possible if you do the calculations.
I installed a turbo onmy b18a Honda. New my precision 3431e was leaking oil into the exhaust. I have a 3/4 oil drain, half of it is steel coming from the pan then it goes into a rubber hose. I still had issues. I had to run a .30 restrictor It seemed to help. Still Burn some oil on cold start. Could the turbo been bad from the start.
I have a bmw 535i with twin turbos and I found a small leak coming from rear turbo car runs perfect but burns oil into exhaust any idea that you can share?
Question... the more oil pressure and oil drain the you feed to your turbo, the less oil pressure to your crankshaft and cylinder, is this statement correct? If it's and you feed fuel oil pressure to your turbo and you drain it all isn't it the same to not having any oil pressure left to your crankshaft? Kind of like if you take your oil filter out..
Hi friend. At 4:40 minutes you where saying because of something the oil get suck from your turbo? i can't hear it well.How your return goes to your oil pan? your turbo is lower or on the same level of the oil in the pan right? you have scavange pump for that?
I'm gonna be using an 10 oil drain, I don't have the funky fitting on the turbo like in the video though, it has a block with an10 threads. but I did drill out the fitting to little over half inch hole, it was kinda small before. its basically the same size as my stock line was, a mill or 2 bigger now than stock line was, so I don't think ill have an issue. my an 10 line also has decent size holes on the fittings. and my oil pan has an10 fitting with a shaft and oring that just presses into pan, drilled that out as well to make hole bigger, so I'm pretty sure my setup will have enough flow, if it doesn't leak that is lol guess ill find out, if it don't work, Ill just change it.
I have a 4G94 lancer with A turbosmart oil regulator because I thought my turbo was a BB, but its a journal. I assume To provide adequate oiling of the engine it made sense that that it didn't want reduced flow to engine components. Is it fine that I have an oil regulator for a journal turbo?
Hello i lokks like you are well educated on turbos, can you help me with a couple og questions?? i have 2 Turbonetics t-25055, how mutch shaft endplay is normal on this type turbos, its the stupid single bearing turbos, a realy smart setup :-/ well to the next question, when the turbos was replased the turbinehousing was changed and the t-25055 now has the t-24238 turbinehouses is there any diffrence? the turbine is the same on both, but there can be a chanel diffrence.do you kow anything about this. Best regards Otto
I have a question I have a 6.0 ls with turbo with a vsracing 80mm turbo at idle when fully warmed after a run I’m idle pressure would be in the 20s low 30s I just put in a precision 96mm now at the same idea when full hot after a run I have a oil pressure of 17psi which I feel is really low I try and cap the oil feed and my normal pressure is there put it back on the 96mm 17psi at idle idk what to do🤷♂️
Guys turbo oil restrictors are not to keep oil pressure to the crank.... Also turbos do need oil restrictors to achieve proper oil pressure. Otherwise they wlil spill more oil from the journals hence more need for oil return sometimes journals splash so much oil to the seals from the side thats not manageable. Also too much oil pressure makes the shaft stiffer, you should know better since when you put the CHRA on the balancing machine and turn on the oil pressure the turbo shaft becomes stiff and cant rotate as easy
If you run something like a Heavy Duty Oil Scavenge Circulation Pump you can get away with running smaller lines and mount your turbo in a lower position and not have to worry about oil bleeding through the seals
Chalres Andrew don't do that, if it came from the manufacturer that way it is fine. The important thing is proper routing of the drain line and its return location. This guy is giving bad info.
Hey Austin, the Mazdaspeed k04 seem to smoke oil from seals when people do a dump pipe upgrade.. can you advise if theres any known issues with the Mazdaspeed k04 drain ? Is there a deflector? or is it due to just a shitty designed turbo?
Ah this makes much more sense now. I thought I could shrink down my oil drain to a measly 5/16” oops. I learned the hard way, and so did my neighbors *cough cough* whew..
+22re red I'm not sure what to tell you for that. I prefer not to run scavenge pumps because if the turbo is below the oil level naturally then it will leak oil out of the turbo in its natural sitting position with the engine off. You would have to talk to someone that knows more about that subject, i build turbos for vehicles that are usually already turbo charged, so we don't have to worry about that problem.
Turbo Lab America okay so if i put a shut off valve for the feed line would it still leak if i keep the drain pump on for a little bit after shutting the valve because im looking into doing a bed mount for my truck and didnt want to tap into the engine oil
+22re red Your case is different, you never want a shut off at the feed. What I'm referring to that would be a problem is the height of the natural oil level. As In with the turbo mounted, after you put all the oil in the motor, in some cases the oil will be so high in the turbo that it leaks out of the seals
Check ball valve on the feed line. This is what is used on the STS rear mount systems. It stops the oil thats left in the feed line from draining into the turbo once the vehicle is shut off....or in your case once the pump is shut off but as soon as over 1psi is applied, it opens back up. Then for the return side, either mount the pump below the height of the turbo, or use a back flow valve between the drain and the pump to keep the oil from back flowing into the turbo once the scavenge pump shuts off. We used this setup to take care of the oil issues on a 98 transam with a rear mount turbo. Worked like a charm. ;)
do borg warner vnt 17 turbos have sufficient oil ports on return? i upgraded my turbo on my 03 tdi jetta. do you see any issues with running a oil cooler on the turbo line just before turbo?
So I have a turbonetics and have had this same issue where I blew the seals I believe because I only have a 5/8 drain on the turbo and ran whatever the car was pumping to the turbo from the oil sending unit. I couldn't find anything bigger than 5/8 even though turbonetics said to run a 3/4 to 1" line. But why is this just for journal bearing? What's different from ball bearing?
I just rebuilt my journal bearing turbo and now it has no play at all and doesn't spin as easy as it did before the new bushings didn't feel tighter than the old ones, do they need to be broken in or should I take it apart again?
I completely understand what you are trying to say, but I don't think you know how hydraulic pressures work. Regardless of how much oil is going in, if the drain is too small it back fills and builds pressure. At a certain psi the oil will be forced past the seals. By enlarging the drain, you will lower the pressure until the blow by stops.
Very misleading info all turbos come with a oil flow rate liters per min. Over feeding a turbo as you have stated cause high parasitic drag don't mislead people. Need to get some facts right pressure is a measure of restriction and form of restrictor is used to reduce volume and often at the same point pressure goes up. Anyone watching this misleading video please refer to your turbo manufacture to oil flow requirements all frames of turbos are different. Ps let's not forget crankcase pressure is often the reason a turbo smokes and seals DON'T just blow.
Please explain? I was always under the impression that as you add a restriction the velocity increases and the pressure drops. Its the principle of the conservation of energy. How does the pressure go up after restriction?
@@CHUDHUCKER You got it backwards. A restriction will increase pressure and reduce flow. Just like sticking your finger in front of a garden hose makes it spray across the yard. However, some terms here are getting tossed around a bit wrong. Pressure doesn't really matter. It's the volume that matters. Just like Steve said above, mechanical parts need a certain amount of lube. As he said, a certain amount of liters per minute. A fire hose at 2 PSI is going to flow a much higher LPM than a 1/4 hose at 70psi.
My Cummins engine's oil pump flows 20 gallons per minute at 50 psi, so the turbo must be getting quite a bit. lol After 310,000 miles, the original turbo wasn't leaking a drop. And that's with 15/40 weight oil, too.
@@AmericanThunder Cummin's supply flow rates to match units based on applications as per every manufacture, your oil pump flows that your turbo doesn't see that unless your running a oil feed line to the turbo same size as the block entry from the pump ? Kinda dont think so buddy, 20ltrs per minute is based on pump exit, please so some research before making weird statements.
I still don’t understand why you would put any oil pressure to a turbo when it doesn’t really have a normal oil seal I tried 40 psi with a 3/4” drain and still leaking oil .
You say that 5/8" hose would be really good, but isn't a -10 AN hose equivalent to a 5/8" hose? I understand perhaps the -10 AN fitting outlet may be smaller then 5/8" but a -10 AN hose itself is equal to 5/8".
+mrkikaz this fitting is a -10 an, but not all are the same. I tell people not to use them because all of the -10 an drains I have seen are too small. The 5/8 is roughly 16 mm inside diameter. This -10 an fitting is only 9.95 mm, the Hahn mhi turbo was 12 mm inside diameter.
So first off you do not run as much oil pressure as you can to the turbo. There is a restrictor that should be ran that actually limits oil pressure to the turbo so that you don't blow the seals out. The drain is gravity feed so it is important to have as straight a shot from drain port to oil pan as possible with no low spots in it to accumulate oil and cause a back up. Lastly if the drain hole is - 10 on the turbo then it doesn't matter how large the fitting you put on it is the flow is dictated by the orifice but in this case it is gravity drain.
So it's not really the -10 hose, being too small, it's the fittings having the restrictions? I was thinking of using a 5/8" hose, with barb fitting, I guess ppl like the AN fittings because it says 'race car' me on stuff like that, I don't care as long as it is a dependable mod,
ive recently upsized my H1C drain to 18mm ID and no longer have smoking issues. i previously had -10an and it would smoke anytime i was high rpm and high vacuum. glad to see you made this video to teach other people too.
I'm (now) a believer :O) Makes xlint sense. Thanks for taking the time. Cheers
Great explanation. I had the same drain on my t3/t4 and it was blowing oil out of the exhaust. Went with a bigger drain and it's much better now.
Nice job Austin! ...I had an oil pressure issue that I thought might be turbocharger drain related..but I capped off the flow to the turbocharger to quickly check oil pressure and found it was my engine...you're correct..the stock sized (16mm) oil drain back is sufficient...👍
Remember too that you can have a big enough oil drain and still have issues because of blow by not allowing oil to fall down to the oil pan.
I vent the hell out of my boosted engines at the block and valve cover. Most get inpatient and under vent there engines.
You give great info man! People should pay for this kind of shit i kid you not, knowledge and experience isnt free. Sad that i see negative comments on some of your videos. Keep up the great work! 💯
Great video! Thanks for the drain side explanation and tips.
Thanks for posting this info ! Definitely saved me some parts money xD being new to turbos these are things that only experience and/or research will teach you so, thumbs up to you my good man :)
Extremely helpful. I have an 1999 audi A4 B5 1.8 K03 turbo. Oil everywhere in the crossover tube, intercooler right on up to the throttle body. Fed oil from the oil cooler on the engine at the filter. Everything you said here totally applies to my current stock setup. Time for a new upgraded cartridge I see.
You have giving me so much valuable information, thank you!
We use restrictors so the crank bearings keep oil pressure and we don't pump all of it to the head or the turbo.
@@jimmiedean8035 the problem is when the turbo breaks, *all* that oil goes through the intercooler to the intake and the diesel engine enters a runaway to destruction; ask me how i know ;i once was able to stop,engage 5th and stall it,but youtube is full of runaway diesels until either the engine breaks,or the oil runs out; restrictors should be mandatory in all diesel turbos,as should intake plenum butterflies, some cars have these;
and since i am at it, it should also be mandatory that turbo diesel makers also make half of them NON TURBO; you can't imagine the pleasure of driving a non turbo diesel with the torque available down low at the ready,instead of waiting for the 1600 RPMs; turbos are good for loonies who know no better and demand them,good for racing,good for towing,and good for germany where there are 12000 kms with NO speed limit,300 kph is ok there,not anywhere else.
@@jimmiedean8035 i think that a lot of oil flow to cool it, is needed for racing only; for a grocery getter or to snail drive at 75 mph you don't need a lot of oil flow,am i right? so, when i have oil burning (due ,surely,to high crankcase pressure,due to a hopeless,worn, engine- cyl.and rings-,that the customer can't afford,or want, to repair) i would,and do,use an oil restrictor that i make,altering the inlet bolt; usually 1.5 mm,simply because the 1 mm drills break a lot...)
good info. I learned stuff. Thank you.
Great video, keep the coming!
I love your channel and all the content man! Great stuff! Could I suggest using a mic for audio though? You can get a lavaliere system for $100 and your information will be clearly heard! I had similar problems but I'm in a very small/new channel lol. Thanks for keeping us all informed and I plan on picking up a hybrid Mitsubishi tdo5h 20g from you in the future 👌🔥🔥🔥
I didn't know any of that, great information.
First off I really enjoyed the video and gave it a thumbs up. But after watching, something just didnt seem right with the measurements, especially since AN -10 line is supposed to be an equal replacement to 5/8 standard hose so I decided to head out to the garage and measure some fittings and hoses. Heres what I found.... The fitting you measured must have been a very cheaply made -10. A quality -10 has an ID of a little over 1/2" or right around 15mm. I just confirmed this by measuring the -10 fitting for MY drain and it measured out to 14.8mm.I also measured the ID of a piece of 5/8 heater hose and it came out to only 15.8mm. While I doubt that 1mm would make a very large difference in drainage, assuming it would, since there is no pressure on these, it would be perfectly feasible to drill the -10 out to over 16mm and still have an adequate seal for a drain line. This would give it MORE ID than the 5/8 hose you recommended while still allowing people to keep the fittings they have already purchased and to run the braided line that is sometimes needed due to the lines being very close to the exhaust manifold on alot of custom setups. This is the very reason that these AN lines became popular on custom turbo setups in the first place. This video definitely made me think though so Im headed out to drill my fittings now. ;)
Bad Luck Garage im just about to use 7875vsracing turbo on my hsv ls1 so thanks for the input cos i have heard this turbo has bugger all room for the drain fitting and makes me nervous😅
I'm not using the 7875 but will probably upgrade in the future. Currently using a T66 that came on an STS turbo kit that I got for a steal but if you check out my playlist for my turbo C10 you'll see I've chamfered the drain fitting to help flow into the -10 fitting. I completely agree with this channel that you should use the biggest drain possible but sometimes clearance is tight so you gotta make due and just try to help flow wherever you can. Disclaimer: THIS GUY OBVIOUSLY KNOWS WAY MORE ABOUT TURBOS THAN I DO!!! So I would follow his advise whenever possible!but sometimes on custom setups, clearance is an issue. I'm actually having to go ahead and clock my drain line and tighten it to the drain fitting off the turbo, then bolting the assembly to the turbo as an example.
Bad Luck Garage yeah thanks.. will definitely have a watch and look at getting flow best i can. My car is 4door version of your 04 gto so not alot of room in general i will keep you posted.
I'm assuming you're referring to a Holden Commodore? That's pretty cool brother!!👍🏻
Bad Luck Garage yeah thanks. Funny tho i covet your c10 and cool coupes especially the trucks tho.
extremely helpful I never realize you wanted to run as much as possible but I guess it totally makes sense it's the only thing Cooling most Journal bearing turbos.
all the boost no, this guy is giving bad info.
This is an old video, so not that anyone cares, but the difference in flow between the 10mm hole and the 20mm hole he mentioned is actually 400% more. Doubling the size of a circle's diameter (or radius) will quadruple the area. By reducing your drain from 20mm to 10mm, you are getting 25% of the flow.
That's the answere I was looking for. I have a HX40 and it doesn't have any shaft play but it leaks oil threw the compressor wheel and I didn't know what was going on. I also rebuilt the turbo with a rebuilt kit an the leakage has upset me alot. Now I know where to look and fix the problem:) Awsome:)
TY, GOOD BSAIC STUFF TO KEEP UR TUBO HAPPY AND SMOKE FREE
Good series of vids you have
I lost focus at 2:35 when the bug showed up ,kept thinking what was he going to do next.....
Yeah I don't use Instagram 🤣
Stop bugging bro, focus.
Awesome,very helpful thanks!
For a ball bearing turbo what are your thoughts on the TurboSmart 40 psi oil pressure regulator?
I'm doing my ct12b turbo ATM and I'm port matching the oil drain and supply , makes a lot of sense , also you can get leaky seals from running too thinner oil too , as I'm learning on my Hilux Surf 1kzte
I came across this video trying to figure out why there was so much oil in my intercooler pipes after installing a new Cummins/HX35 combo. As I was watching and he said -10an I went SHOOT, that's what I have. So I went and pulled my drain off and measured it, 11mm ID for the tubing, the connections were only 10mm. Measured the stock drain, 18mm. Put the stock 18mm on and WHOLE LEE CURE RAP, that was not only my oil issue, but it was also apparently making my turbo spool MUCH less and MUCH slower. Like an entirely different truck now for something THAT simple. This kinda blows my mind... Thanks so much for making this video...
It’s very common, I have multiple videos on that topic.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for this video it helps a lot
good video, im going to port out my oil drain i guess. Do you sell or do you know where I can get just the compressor o ring seal for an H1c? I cant seem to find it anywhere without being in a rebuild kit
Poor Man Mods don't do that it is not necessary at all. You should have a restrictor on the oil feed side and your drain line should run at a down ward angle straight to pan with no low spots. I sell Precision, Garrett and Comp turbos and build 1000+ wheel horsepower cars pretty regular and I can tell you that this guy means well but is not giving good info.
You sir, are a genius
As a diesel student I learned that in medium and heavy duty engines the oil feed is directly after the filtering media. Right from the filter base such as on the navistar DT 466 before the engine main journal / crankshaft. Clean unrestricted oil flow at engine oil pressure is called for so , why is there a need in light duty/civilian turbo application to run a fixed orifice (restrictor) on the turbo feed line.
Very nice video! I'm not so good on English, but i understood everything! Thanks
With lines unhooked, If you were to pour oil into the feed port, should it flow through freely or will it slightly sit in there until the turbo is spinning? I’m trying to figure out if my feed is clogged slightly.
i know this video is older but i have a 2003 gti that been experiencing oil blowing problems and a new drain line that i found is clearly smaller than oem so i will replace to oem specs and hope that i dont blow clouds when i step on it and increase the psi and in theory flood my cartridge
I recently purchased 2 ebay gt35 turbos.. Installed as a rear mount setup on a camaro..
From day one one of the turbos would drip black soot from the exhaust port, stop spinning at idle.. lasted about a month before it was pouring oil out... I haven't had any issues with the other turbo..
I'm rebuilding the turbo today, hopefully it will fix the issue.
+Turbo Lab America Very good info about having a big turbo drain, (I run a neon hahn 16G turbo kit S2 with their complete stock drain) also wondering if increase crankcase pressure could also be a source of blue smoke at WOT pull at the 1/4 mile track. it's something i noticed a few times only at the track, but it never smoked before or after on hyw pulls of dailly driven.
By any chance do you have any vids on the ball bearing oil feed amount or drain back ty
I think you'll find every turbo made has a spec oil flow based on volume measured out the return both on cranking and peak torque at running, that has very little to do with pressure. Pressure is a measurement of restriction no reflection on flow, running high oil pressure above what the recommendation of the supplier induces high parasitic drag reducing the turbo response.
Hello there, do you do carbon seal conversions from time to time?
I'm wondering if I do this, will it stop the oil from coming out my tailpipe or will I still need to replace the seal? I'm hoping you tell me there's hope for my seal haha
awesome tip...
I have a t28 journal bearing turbo on my Toyota celica that was having smoking issues, up sized the drain thinking that was it, maybe I didn’t go big enough, where can I find a rebuild kit to install while it’s out, u confirmed that everyone around me is wrong and I’m actually on the correct path
Can you provide a link to the fitting you're talking about at 10:03? I'm going to be running a tb0363 .52/.48 50 trim/ could you by chance provide recommendations on oil feed and water lines as well? big fan, thank you for all the information you provide.
if once if the turbo starts to blow oil even if no shaft play? it means its garbage even if u fix ur return line?
May I ask if I build an oil tank for the turbo. Separate from the engine. With its own oil sending unit and filter. Would it work?
Does the oil pressure and volume requirements differ between ball bearing vs journal bearing?
Ye
Allot of diesel turbos come with restrictions built in the oil feed side. You dont want to run a 100 psi of oil through a HX35.
Should the drain be at least very close to the size of the supply pipe? What also might help is to calculate the pipe surface in mm2 and calculate the impact in terms of surface are lost when the output drain is to small. A loss of 20% might be possible if you do the calculations.
Thanks!!!
I have a question. can the drain be too large? i'm gonna rebuild my n54 turbo`s with your kit and I want them to be the best they can be.
How much to rebuild my ko3s turbo for Volkswagen jetty mk4
I installed a turbo onmy b18a Honda. New my precision 3431e was leaking oil into the exhaust. I have a 3/4 oil drain, half of it is steel coming from the pan then it goes into a rubber hose. I still had issues. I had to run a .30 restrictor
It seemed to help. Still Burn some oil on cold start. Could the turbo been bad from the start.
Hey , are you able to rebuild 07 mb e320 diesel turbo? Thanks
Very helpful
that bug got annihilated
So do u have to run a super big drain the whole line or just the fitting
I have a bmw 535i with twin turbos and I found a small leak coming from rear turbo car runs perfect but burns oil into exhaust any idea that you can share?
Question... the more oil pressure and oil drain the you feed to your turbo, the less oil pressure to your crankshaft and cylinder, is this statement correct? If it's and you feed fuel oil pressure to your turbo and you drain it all isn't it the same to not having any oil pressure left to your crankshaft? Kind of like if you take your oil filter out..
Hi friend.
At 4:40 minutes you where saying because of something the oil get suck from your turbo? i can't hear it well.How your return goes to your oil pan? your turbo is lower or on the same level of the oil in the pan right? you have scavange pump for that?
In my turbo Im getting oil only on the exhaust side . And there is no play in it what is problem help me out bro
I'm gonna be using an 10 oil drain, I don't have the funky fitting on the turbo like in the video though, it has a block with an10 threads. but I did drill out the fitting to little over half inch hole, it was kinda small before. its basically the same size as my stock line was, a mill or 2 bigger now than stock line was, so I don't think ill have an issue. my an 10 line also has decent size holes on the fittings. and my oil pan has an10 fitting with a shaft and oring that just presses into pan, drilled that out as well to make hole bigger, so I'm pretty sure my setup will have enough flow, if it doesn't leak that is lol guess ill find out, if it don't work, Ill just change it.
I have a 4G94 lancer with A turbosmart oil regulator because I thought my turbo was a BB, but its a journal. I assume To provide adequate oiling of the engine it made sense that that it didn't want reduced flow to engine components. Is it fine that I have an oil regulator for a journal turbo?
Good job
Is it ok to run a 3/4 corrugated tubing on a gt35r
Hello i lokks like you are well educated on turbos, can you help me with a couple og questions?? i have 2 Turbonetics t-25055, how mutch shaft endplay is normal on this type turbos, its the stupid single bearing turbos, a realy smart setup :-/ well to the next question, when the turbos was replased the turbinehousing was changed and the t-25055 now has the t-24238 turbinehouses is there any diffrence? the turbine is the same on both, but there can be a chanel diffrence.do you kow anything about this. Best regards Otto
very helpful with fabricating a remote mount turbo with a separate oil reservoir.
I have a question I have a 6.0 ls with turbo with a vsracing 80mm turbo at idle when fully warmed after a run I’m idle pressure would be in the 20s low 30s
I just put in a precision 96mm now at the same idea when full hot after a run I have a oil pressure of 17psi which I feel is really low
I try and cap the oil feed and my normal pressure is there put it back on the 96mm 17psi at idle idk what to do🤷♂️
3/4 copper water pipe fittings work really well. .78" ID
PTE gen 2 BB 6266 turbo needs a restrictor?
Do you know about the zage turbo?
Guys turbo oil restrictors are not to keep oil pressure to the crank....
Also turbos do need oil restrictors to achieve proper oil pressure. Otherwise they wlil spill more oil from the journals hence more need for oil return sometimes journals splash so much oil to the seals from the side thats not manageable. Also too much oil pressure makes the shaft stiffer, you should know better since when you put the CHRA on the balancing machine and turn on the oil pressure the turbo shaft becomes stiff and cant rotate as easy
i am having low engine oil pressure. i have ted off the oil.pressure switch. i am.planning to put a restrictor in the 16g turbo.
If you run something like a Heavy Duty Oil Scavenge Circulation Pump you can get away with running smaller lines and mount your turbo in a lower position and not have to worry about oil bleeding through the seals
Speed up the video to 1.25X to watch the video at a normal speed.... 😂
Lmfaoooo
Any updated oil drain lines? BMW🤞👀
question when u enlarge ur oil return hole in ur center cartridge did u dis-asimble the turbo first? or let it just like that?
Chalres Andrew don't do that, if it came from the manufacturer that way it is fine. The important thing is proper routing of the drain line and its return location. This guy is giving bad info.
Hey Austin, the Mazdaspeed k04 seem to smoke oil from seals when people do a dump pipe upgrade.. can you advise if theres any known issues with the Mazdaspeed k04 drain ? Is there a deflector? or is it due to just a shitty designed turbo?
the mazda needs a duell exaust dump or it will heat up seal and smoke
isn't 20mm tube flows 315% vs. 10mm??
Ah this makes much more sense now. I thought I could shrink down my oil drain to a measly 5/16” oops. I learned the hard way, and so did my neighbors *cough cough* whew..
what about if you are doing a stand alone oil system for your turbo and are using scavenger pumps on both ends feed and drain ?
+22re red I'm not sure what to tell you for that. I prefer not to run scavenge pumps because if the turbo is below the oil level naturally then it will leak oil out of the turbo in its natural sitting position with the engine off. You would have to talk to someone that knows more about that subject, i build turbos for vehicles that are usually already turbo charged, so we don't have to worry about that problem.
Turbo Lab America okay so if i put a shut off valve for the feed line would it still leak if i keep the drain pump on for a little bit after shutting the valve because im looking into doing a bed mount for my truck and didnt want to tap into the engine oil
+22re red Your case is different, you never want a shut off at the feed. What I'm referring to that would be a problem is the height of the natural oil level. As In with the turbo mounted, after you put all the oil in the motor, in some cases the oil will be so high in the turbo that it leaks out of the seals
for the shut off i was referring for after i shut the truck off
Check ball valve on the feed line. This is what is used on the STS rear mount systems. It stops the oil thats left in the feed line from draining into the turbo once the vehicle is shut off....or in your case once the pump is shut off but as soon as over 1psi is applied, it opens back up. Then for the return side, either mount the pump below the height of the turbo, or use a back flow valve between the drain and the pump to keep the oil from back flowing into the turbo once the scavenge pump shuts off. We used this setup to take care of the oil issues on a 98 transam with a rear mount turbo. Worked like a charm. ;)
I think oil volume would be more important than pressure.
Garrett recommends 40-45psi right on their website.
do borg warner vnt 17 turbos have sufficient oil ports on return? i upgraded my turbo on my 03 tdi jetta. do you see any issues with running a oil cooler on the turbo line just before turbo?
It all depends on type and visoosity of your oil you dont need oil cooler some oils are made to run hot
Great
So I have a turbonetics and have had this same issue where I blew the seals I believe because I only have a 5/8 drain on the turbo and ran whatever the car was pumping to the turbo from the oil sending unit. I couldn't find anything bigger than 5/8 even though turbonetics said to run a 3/4 to 1" line. But why is this just for journal bearing? What's different from ball bearing?
+Keyton Holcomb the ball bearing turbos don't flow as much oil but the bigger the drain the better
Turbo Lab America so I should run a restrictor on a ball bearing?
When going from 16 to 12 mm diameter you go from 200 to 113 mm2 which means you lose 43%
I just rebuilt my journal bearing turbo and now it has no play at all and doesn't spin as easy as it did before the new bushings didn't feel tighter than the old ones, do they need to be broken in or should I take it apart again?
+Austin K usually it won't spin easy if you kinked a piston ring seal or if the deflector isn't all the way in causing the seal plate to sit uneven.
Turbo Lab America it was because one of the bushings wasn't seated all of the way it feels better than when I bought it new, stupid eBay turbo
Hi, any one can tell me, why my turbo charger didn't work in cold engine, but it's work after start engine for 20 minutes?
Ok iv never used turbos before to I need an oil pump for them or what up
How do I get ahold of you to talk to you about my problem
Good info
I completely understand what you are trying to say, but I don't think you know how hydraulic pressures work. Regardless of how much oil is going in, if the drain is too small it back fills and builds pressure. At a certain psi the oil will be forced past the seals. By enlarging the drain, you will lower the pressure until the blow by stops.
10an is 5/8s hose size. I just measured my ID of my AN10 hose its almost a .500 (.492) .
10AN fittings are 5/8" hose size but, that is the equivalent outside diameter of the hose not the inside diameter. Hope that helps.
Very misleading info all turbos come with a oil flow rate liters per min. Over feeding a turbo as you have stated cause high parasitic drag don't mislead people. Need to get some facts right pressure is a measure of restriction and form of restrictor is used to reduce volume and often at the same point pressure goes up. Anyone watching this misleading video please refer to your turbo manufacture to oil flow requirements all frames of turbos are different. Ps let's not forget crankcase pressure is often the reason a turbo smokes and seals DON'T just blow.
Please explain? I was always under the impression that as you add a restriction the velocity increases and the pressure drops. Its the principle of the conservation of energy. How does the pressure go up after restriction?
@@CHUDHUCKER You got it backwards. A restriction will increase pressure and reduce flow. Just like sticking your finger in front of a garden hose makes it spray across the yard.
However, some terms here are getting tossed around a bit wrong. Pressure doesn't really matter. It's the volume that matters.
Just like Steve said above, mechanical parts need a certain amount of lube. As he said, a certain amount of liters per minute. A fire hose at 2 PSI is going to flow a much higher LPM than a 1/4 hose at 70psi.
My Cummins engine's oil pump flows 20 gallons per minute at 50 psi, so the turbo must be getting quite a bit. lol After 310,000 miles, the original turbo wasn't leaking a drop. And that's with 15/40 weight oil, too.
@@AmericanThunder Cummin's supply flow rates to match units based on applications as per every manufacture, your oil pump flows that your turbo doesn't see that unless your running a oil feed line to the turbo same size as the block entry from the pump ? Kinda dont think so buddy, 20ltrs per minute is based on pump exit, please so some research before making weird statements.
@@zososldier on the money mate, thank you
It’s not about the oil pressure it’s about volume of oil too much oil will be a problem not too much pressure.
10 AN is enough for a drain . If you run it directly back to engine and not a mile long your fine . Done it for 6 years now.
if we make crude calculations, 9.5mm x 9.5=85 and 16 x 16= 256 so by cross section the small one is almost 1/4th of the normal one!!!
Is π(r squared) really that hard? And by your calculations, the small one is 1/3 of the larger one.
I still don’t understand why you would put any oil pressure to a turbo when it doesn’t really have a normal oil seal I tried 40 psi with a 3/4” drain and still leaking oil .
You say that 5/8" hose would be really good, but isn't a -10 AN hose equivalent to a 5/8" hose? I understand perhaps the -10 AN fitting outlet may be smaller then 5/8" but a -10 AN hose itself is equal to 5/8".
+mrkikaz this fitting is a -10 an, but not all are the same. I tell people not to use them because all of the -10 an drains I have seen are too small. The 5/8 is roughly 16 mm inside diameter. This -10 an fitting is only 9.95 mm, the Hahn mhi turbo was 12 mm inside diameter.
+Turbo Lab America 👍
So first off you do not run as much oil pressure as you can to the turbo. There is a restrictor that should be ran that actually limits oil pressure to the turbo so that you don't blow the seals out. The drain is gravity feed so it is important to have as straight a shot from drain port to oil pan as possible with no low spots in it to accumulate oil and cause a back up. Lastly if the drain hole is - 10 on the turbo then it doesn't matter how large the fitting you put on it is the flow is dictated by the orifice but in this case it is gravity drain.
So it's not really the -10 hose, being too small, it's the fittings having the restrictions? I was thinking of using a 5/8" hose, with barb fitting, I guess ppl like the AN fittings because it says 'race car' me on stuff like that, I don't care as long as it is a dependable mod,