Precision Turbo Talks - Turbocharger Do's & Don'ts
Vložit
- čas přidán 16. 06. 2024
- Check out our newest video: "EcoBoost Ford Mustang Performance Upgrade Turbocharger"
• EcoBoost Ford Mustang ... -~-
On this episode of Precision Turbo Talks, Tristan talks about the do's and don't's of a turbocharger! - Auta a dopravní prostředky
We hope this video was helpful! Let us know what questions you have for us in the comments!
Precision Turbo & Engine very nice
Precision Turbo & Engine what creates the pressure for oil going into turbo? Where do you run the inlet hose from?
Hy guys i have a mishimoto catch can (big one) do you think i should remove it ?
I have my 550hp setup on the sr20 since few years now without problems but since i installed mishimoto catch can there is some oil under the turbo it is not much leaking but it is there, i am not sure if it is a turbo line or on exhaust or inlet side of turbo how can i check it ?, what you think should i do
Thx for your time and support
Best regards from austria
Dragan
Dragan Babic as stated, sounds like a mount or possible part failure. Catch cans I have never heard cause turbos to leak. Is it vented or recirculated?
DarkMufasa thx
Best turbo details in one video I have ever heard.
Awesome job.
Great lesson on common sense "Doing it right the first time!". Thank You for sharing!
This has been very helpful! Thank you!
Great information.great way of explaining to the people.you need a raise
Good info here. I have two ball bearing 67mm turbos from you guys going into my 5the gen camaro with a tsp 427lsx I cant wait to put those bad boys to the test. Looking forward to doing more projects with you guys as long as it all works out!
Thank you. I learnt quite a bit from this video. Kudos.
Wow that first tip is a very helpful advice, never thought to idle first before shut off. Thanks 😎👍🏽
Really like the tech talk .thanks
Excellent video, subbed! 👍
Learned a bunch !
In the past...i had a GN I modded with the typical precision turbo goodies, ( front mount IC, bigger turbo etc etc)...but since it was basically upgrades of stock stuff, I didn’t run into any of the considerations detailed here
This is a great video! Can you make one about scavenge pumps for low and rear mount turbos?
Wow! Learned a couple of things, best info was about the crankcase breather system. Have seen some blow the oil dipstick out, didn't realize it would try to back pressure the oil drain.
Hey Robert! Love your videos you're a big help in the volvo brick community, keep up the good buddy
Thank you, I just got my first car with a turbo and not really familiar with them. Clear to understand and very helpful.
Let the car cool down after driving if you want it to last and let it warm up too
@@grimcomedy6356 depends on the car. IIRC If its got a ball bearing turbo you dont really need to let it cool down before shutoff like you should be doing on a journal bearing turbo car
Very informative thanks
What’s up PT. Great Turbos. I use them on all my builds. Kudos
2019 still my turbo bible 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯
Awesome wisdom! I'm sharing this on all social media platforms
Great video.
Very informative!
The vibrant hard clamps have plenty of flex to them so you can weld hard piping to the turbo with that clamp.
Interesting info about the crank case pressure affecting oil flow. I was not aware of that before. But I'm guessing that is only a problem at higher boost levels?
For a tuned daily driver running 1-2 bar of boost, baffled catch cans seem to do the job just fine from what I've seen
Nice vid informative and also would you guys happen to have a vid on how to find out what size waistgate you should run like in the vid u said theres differant sizes for differant turbos what do i look for what determines what size external waistgate i should run
Almost 2 year ago I passed my driving test, I had no idea about up to fix anything on a car. I'm now currently sat with the whole front of my car off to get to my turbo to recondition it. Some very useful stuff here that I had no idea about, thanks for the great video. Time to remove the turbo and fix my car 😁
did it work :P
@@jeremycormier8559 Yes and no. I fixed the turbo itself but i had boost pressure issues and other problems. Moral of the story, be careful messing about with things you dont fully understand lol
Good Stuff.. Knowledgeable Information is key too Success. 🏁🏁🏁🏁🏆🏆🏆
I dunno. I purchased a turbo from these guys. Bearing failure in 4.500 miles had a professional rebuild and it failed at 5.700 miles.
Of course it was blamed on me. And I'm out 2k. So i thru it away and purchased a Borg Warner turbo. And have had zero issues.
Mike Brailsford yea I’ve been hearing a lot of people post issues with them. I’ve got their water cooler 6266 and so far at 1,000 miles I seem to be fine so far.
Borg for the win
Well I do have to admit. I was only using basic synthetic mobile 1. But sence then i switched to brad penn high zinc formula oils. After reading the information posted about oils to use. On forced performance web site.
There is a chart pretty much saying we should be using very high zinc oils.
My car is an old 91 Mitsubishi with a 4g63. So ALL emissions stuff including cats have been removed.
With the BW. Turbo I'm using a 10/an drain and 4/an oil feed from the cylinder head.
The combination works excellent. I don't understand why the precision turbo didn't make it. But it's to much money to take another chance.
I generally pull and bin atleast 1-2 pte turbos a month. Vs a garrett, bw, they're fragile. Good for power, but no durability. Chinese made, assembled in America. I refuse to use or recommend them.
If you get a turbo from a company that has industrial background like borg, garret ect. You won't have to worry there turbos get beat to death and keep on going. I've been a truck driver for 20 years and the turbos on them things sometimes go over a million miles without any problem.
Thanks !
Very informative and concise
Nice!! Great info!
Thank you very nice and interesting.
It's all about the oil you use and, allowing the turbo to cool before shutdown.
Really helpful 👌🏾
You just got a sub man👍
I run a pte. divided 6262 bb with dual wastegates on my fd at about 423rwhp at 16 lbs. So far no problems and i have 10k on the turbo. Spools fast and makes good power. I do not run a turbo timer but i do run my car about a mile off boost before i turn it off. I do hear a lot of complaints but i have non at this time
Can you talk about the different types of housings just like the ones used in this video?
Hi Chris! Here are a few links that should help!
czcams.com/video/ZqvTNw57jR8/video.html
czcams.com/video/Y2iGG-w2vic/video.html&list=PLLLS7iRxF0dfnMvqdEGRkzDoLG6WtMt3U&index=14
czcams.com/video/zRLbrLC5VOQ/video.html&list=PLLLS7iRxF0dfnMvqdEGRkzDoLG6WtMt3U&index=6
Nice vidéo thanks...
I had three PTE turbos fail on me.. Switch to a borg warner and never had another issue.
Jokes aside thank you, in all seriousness, there was solid info here that wasn’t just a facsimile of every turbo video/article online.
I do wish you’d gone into more depth/any depth at all RE: catch cans, just saying “not too much in the way of catch cans” doesn’t help me understand what the problem is at all, if you never advise them or what the deal is exactly there and how it relates to “a proper breather system etc.
If you have any videos that go into detail on the topic I would greatly appreciate a link. Thanks again
Turbo Timers is a great invention
GREAT INFORMATIONAL VIDEO!!
Hey it was a helpfull video. can a TURBOCHARGER ENGINE be fitted with CNG KIT?
What do you recommend that the EGT be below before shutting off your engine?
You just helped me decide on turbo or supercharger . Blower it is.
William Grant have fun losing 30 hp to parasitic loss and belt slip. There are way more cars that are turboed from the factory for a reason
Turbo is way cheaper and easier.
Most supercharger kits start at around 6k for a side mount, 10k for a top mount. Turboing your car is much cheaper, especially if you only want low boost.
simple solution is buy a turbo that comes with the correct fittings and lines as a kit, then no mistakes are made. Have some silicon joiners between your hard pipes to allow for flex and if there happens to be any pressure issue, the silicon joiner will jump off the hard pipe, well before a hard pipe or turbo is damaged.
@@strider5119 hahahaha if you think turbos are easier youre on one. If you can replace an intake manifold or change an alternator you can install a supercharger. Also, for low boost, superchargers do the job. High boost, you want a turbo or a centrifugal supercharger.
Also roots type superchargers are inefficient but twin screws and centrifugals are much more efficient. Not as efficent as a turbo but still.
SC kits are also not that expensive. I see a lot of SC kits between 3000 and 6000. Depends on application. Basically the same price as a QUALITY turbo kit.
It boils down to this. Max drivability, easy install, decent power bump: Supercharge it
Dont mind lag, want max power and uncompromised performance: turbo.
i wish i went that way instead of dealing with all this ridiculous heat coming from two turbos
I plan to have my exhaust side braced from my D16 block with a full flex joint and use fiber reinforced silicone couplers to "decouple" the chassis from the rest of the system. I hope to break the D-Series record of 812hp and push the limit to around 1,000hp to prove that the "single jingle" can "flex" with the rest!!!
My 6266 blew within 1000 miles, got it professionally rebuilt and it eventually suffered catastrophic failure in the same amount of time. I ponied up and bought a BB 6466 since I'm a glutton for punishment, lets hope it goes better this time around. And yes, i have checked the clocking of the turbo and ensured that my oil feed, drain, and orientation is correct.
Did it go better this time around?
All seems pretty straightforward for anyone who understands and is thinking about their system
Out of the box precision turbos smoke!
Can you recommend a company that makes the correct manifold for the waste gate the majority of manifolds have a 90 degree waste gate mount
Great video. I have a stock 2007 Audi A4 B7 2.0t Quattro. In the video, you mentioned to not use baffled catch cans because it may create pressure restriction in the PCV. Does that apply to my situation? With direct injection engines like mine, many people say that baffled catch cans can help reduce carbon build up on the intake valves. What is your recommendation?
You are good with audi s setup keep it original
This video is 5 years old. For your precision ball bearing turbos use the TurboSmart OPR. It supplies a constant steady 40psi of oil pressure to your Turbo.
Interested to know your opinion on placement of oil drain into sump .
Nearer the top and above the oil level or lower and what problems can occur ie oil back up or windage .
Thanks.
Instead of idling, get a turbo timer if you have an oil-only CHRA. Or go to a piece that has oil and water in the CHRA. Many modern cars that come turbo'd from the factory have this, and will continue circulating coolant even after leaving the car in the parking lot.
Coking is basically evaporation of the lighter elements in the oil that rests in the bearing when you turn the car off. The hotter the oil the more severe the evaporation, what is left is tar, it is a hydrocarbon after all. When you boil the oil you evaporate the lighter stuff and leave the heavier stuff behind(coke).
Great video that highlights this principle in different ways. Namely oil flow=cooling, and stagnant hot oil is bad.
What about when you start your car when you first get in it. How long or at what temp is good before you start to drive it for proper oil flow?
I'm working on installing a T3 off a junkyard Saab on a VW Bug. Turbo was designed for water cooling (was plumbed for that on the Saab) but my Bug is air-cooled, so no water cooling available. See a lot of other Bugs running similar turbos with the ports simply plugged, seems to do alright. Read literature from Garett saying that the water cooling is mainly needed for preventing oil coking after shutdown, not so much for while actually running, so the cooldown is the critical part. How much cool-down would be needed, would I need to idle for a while before shutting down, or would a few blocks of gentle driving on urban or neighborhood streets before arriving at my destination (as would be the case at most places you'd be arriving to if you're not hooning it in the neighborhood) be adequate to cool it before shutting it off?
Some cheaper turbo's too (im sure this all applies to their turbos) can need a restrictor especially on a high psi (oil psi) engine, he's right about it being a case by case basis and also there are different types of restrictors. I got a vibrant one that was like a pin hole, definitely not enough flow for my journal turbo but I originally had too much pressure. That restrictor actually got plugged and killed the turbo, its ebay replacement also came with a "restrictor" that goes in the oil inlet flange but is waaay larger than the pin hole one and just enough to lower the pressure enough (driving 90psi into this kinda turbo will leak past SEALS!) Again all case by case and what I've said here applies to cheaper turbo's we've worked with.
Ball bearing turbos aren’t cheap you need reatrictors for ball bearing turbos.
Can a turbo be mounted with the hot side pointing down and the oil drain on the side if you were to put a 90 degree elbow pointing down right after it exits the turbo?
Turbonetics CBB Turbos and Tial Wastegates thats what i think is best atleast for imports IMO.
Thanks
first topic idle to cool especially after running in boost condition. If your not monitoring the temperature of turbo and don;t have an automatic or temp controlled shut down system. Manual set an wait to cool turbo is like 1 of the 10 thou-shalt on the stone tablets. It is when you don't because your in a rush that count the most
That information on oil restrictors is wrong. Factory journal small frame turbochargers from Holset and Borg Warner use oil restrictors to prevent the oil seals from being blown out on cold start.
What if you put some type of oil filter on the exit side line to catch any crusty oil?
I would like to hear your thoughts on compressor surge or brake surging turbochargers. I hear mixed responded on if it caused damage or not. I've been involved in turbos for a few years (ok over 2 decades) and have my own opinion on past experience. Thanks if you can answer.
Billy Beane it doesnt cause damage because unlike what most people think it doesnt cause the turbo to spin the other way it just slows it down
It stresses everything on the bearings side, vibrating the shaft and impellers in-out / up-down very fast. The best way to imagine it is trying to take a nail off a wall with the hand with quick movements. A rich moron in a nissan made a video proving he knows S__T about turbos... This is were all the BS about it non-damage on turbo came out...
What do you mean by "brake surging"?
Abec777 Hondatech Maybe if you have a shit turbo, they're designed to be strong anyway. The only time it's really bad is when you're hearing it at WOT. Otherwise the only load on the turbo is the charged air, as there is no exhaust gas spinning the turbo when the throttle is closed.
A...use a blow off valve or B. use an anti-surge ..... witch both he has are anti surge
I live in Kuwait, which is known for having a harsh desert climate. Summer temperatures are usually between 42-50 degrees Celsius, and dust storms are frequent. We use heat covers and add an air filter on the intake of the turbo charger. Beside those, Is there anything else that can be done in order for the turbo charger to function on a daily basis without failure & handle the harsh environmental conditions of the desert?
Also make sure your oil level is full. Low oil absorbs heat faster and has a harder time dissipating it.
do you need a coupler on the hot side or should it be good?
on the 1st point, maybe i missed it, but i didnt notice you mentioning anything about turbo timers, which do exactly what u said, except u CAN turn your key off, get out, and walk to your fav food joint, while the car continues to idle, keyless and locked up, for a few minutes after u leave til the temps drop enough to shut down efficiently.
The old ( and good ) Chrysler mini Mopar turbo's from the 80's and 90's were water cooled in such a way that the coolant would continue to flow to the turbo housing even with the engine shut off. Piping was arranged so that coolant would siphon from low in the cooler part of the block, through the center bearing housing, to a port on the cylinder head goose neck. The flow would automatically continue untill hot and cool area's of the engine normalized to roughly the same temperature. Never had a coking issue with the two I own.
i have a question i have just make a mistake to opening the hex bolt of oil line on my mew turbo during installing so the point is do i have any way to fix it correctly again
waitting for your helpfull reply as soon as possible so i can install my engine back to my evo 8
i shall be very thankfull to you
So a baffled catch can/aos would restrict the PCV, to the point where oil would surge up the drain line?
My on3 turbo works great 6000 miles no problem 800 hp
How do you find the right turbo for your vehicle ?
Does this also apply on normal or stock turbos?
Most newer turbocharged cars circulate coolant after the car is shut off-Like a built in turbo timer- My 2018 circulates coolant upon shutdown and my 1986 Porsche 944 turbo had it waay back when.
Been looking to replace my ta 49 with a 6262 on my 87 grand national! Alot of turbo regal guys run Precision turbos and make crazy power with no issues!
Turbo timers are good - it will keep your car idling for a few minutes after you get OUT! Nice to have.
It's not 1999 anymore. Not needed for a good turbo
Just sitting there creates more heat.its best to just change the oil and clean the turbo and lines frequent. It's preventive measures/ maintenance.
What's up bro you sold me my turbo at Import vs Domestic 2017. It was a 6266 you gave me a killer deal on it thanks again man see you next year!
the only thing id have added is to drain the turbo to the engine ABOVE the oil level in the pan (from your website).
I often use my Pu to tow heavy loads in big Mountains. I lost a turbo and it was replaced by a diesel specialty shop. Since then I am not able to maintain speed when on most hills. The exhaust temp. shoots up to 1300 or even 1400 right away. What is the problem? Do you know what I can do to get my hauling beast back?
I used to drive a semi, as i heard the same thing. But is there a computer to control the cool down.
I used to rebuild turbo's for a company, I used to see a lot of people run really small air filters on turbo's which can ruin a turbo
If my oil temps are low as for cruising around (as opposed to elevated for spirited driving), is it ok the shut the engine down straight away as the oil temp isn't going to come down with extended idling? I would imagine extended idling is good if oil temps if higher than normal ie; for track use.
It is always best to idle the car for awhile after driving spiritedly as both the turbocharger and oil will have elevated temperatures. If you were to drive the car down the street modestly, there would be no need to idle the car for an extended period before shutdown.
How about adding water cooling to your cartridges i race in desert racing and you cant always sit there and let it idle.
Love my 6466!
Same
What is the proper boost for my drive 1.4 Holden Cruze manual boost control
Any way to get rid of burnt on oil in center section??
Whats about tilt/ degree max on turbos?
Do i have to use an oil restrictor on a Hydrodynamic bearing PT76/75 turbo?
How about mounting the turbo like exhaust side down and the air intake sign up
Oil drain is fixed on the CHRA. It must be down. The labrynith seals only function properly with drain down AND free flow to crankcase. Ignore this and you will puke oil out the exhaust like you proposed or if compressor down, oil will flood the intake.
just for your info a standard Mazda RX& FD 1993 and up use a standard 140psi oil pressure system which will over oil the standard oil system and blow oil out the exhaust. so we HAVE to run a Restrictor. and maybe you should be aware of the oil filter screen on the incoming oil supply line fitting which has a screen which can get crushed if a standard AN fitting is screwed into it..my Friend's TO4 e got supper hot and when removed had a blocked crushed screen stopping oil getting to the turbo so it burnt out the ceramic bearings..it lasted only a few days..we are NOT Happy..
Is it safe to use a block off plate on a journal bearing turbo (2020 veloster n)
Hey bro ceramic or steel?
Would an AOS do for crankcase vent?
Anyone know where on the engine the oil feed is supposed to go ?
Definetly gonna run a precision turbo on my d16y8 turbo build .you get what you pay for.
why buy a turbo thats worth more than your car?
Wish this video existed years ago. Would have saved me a ton of trouble
I have gtx3576r gen2 with tial 60 waste gate... its good combo or not? thx a lot for answer.
I think you should figure out a way to not have to have oil to cool it then you can shut it off with no worries and solve the oil drain issues
How do race cars get around the oil cooking process if they have to shut down the car IMMEDIATELY after a 1/4 mile or 1/8 mile pass?
what about connecting water or coolant lines
Good info. Its always a good idea to invest in a turbo timer folks
DarkMufasa bullshit advice. Only possibly needed for non water cooled turbos. Modern turbos on modern cars with pressurised coolant systems still cycle coolant/ water with engine off due to it being pressurised.