Adam Ondra #53: Spray Wall - An Essential Part Of Training
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- čas přidán 16. 02. 2020
- ČESKÉ TITULKY JSOU DOSTUPNÉ V NASTAVENÍ VIDEA
Many people often ask me how they should train. There are so many trendy exercises or more specific climbing tools like campus board, fingerboard or system board to train on. They might be all helpful, but the most NATURAL way to get strong is often neglected - bouldering on a spray wall.
Story by
ADAM ONDRA
Directed by
LACO KORBEL
Camera
LACO KORBEL
PAVEL KLEMENT
Edited by
FILIP NOVÁK
ADAM LIGOCKI
Production
JAKUB PÍNA
Executive Producer
PAVEL BLAŽEK
Subs by
JARKA MARČEKOVÁ
© 2020 AO Production s.r.o.
#climbing #indoorclimbing #training #climbingwall #adamondra #bestpractise #power #workout #spraywall - Sport
A big shoutout to the directors/editors of this video here! I think the way you made it possible to actually understand the boulders by highlighting them 1. with the color and 2. with the circles was genius! I've seen many videos where watching people climb on these walls is just boring because you don't get the feel for that boulder. Really cool!
Can't agree more ! :)
Agreed, wonderful editing
Yea these edits were seriously well done. Simple but so damn effective
it was excellent editing
Yes. Adam's passion and the spot on editing make these videos an absolute joy to watch.
4:14 Future crusher enters bottom left
Completely agree on the spray wall. Best and most fun way to train for climbing. And most gyms don't have them...
It’s so frustrating. I wish my gym would set one up
@@MPHshoots TBH, spray walls can only cover a part of the climber spectrum (mostly 7A - 8C climbers), which usually isn't really beginner/intermediate-friendly.
@fI1cker Because he isn't a beginner?
@fI1cker He's the best climber in the world and the first one to ever climb 5.15d (9C). They say there's no stupid questions, well, yours it is.
@fI1cker He's been climbing since he was 3yo, so, for 27 years sheesh.
My gym lost its spray wall for a bit when they added it to the rotation, but now it's back to its torturous 60 degree glory
That was some great editing highlighting the holds on the spray wall. Thank you for that.
I love watching this while I climb on my homewall. It gives me so many cool ideas for new movement.
I can't believe I've watched 53 of these. It is the only thing on CZcams that I have post notifications on for and religiously watch every week. Adam is such an extraordinary human and it is inspiring to watch his grit and commitment.
Thanks for that! We appreciate that! 👍(AOTeam)
The animations to show each problem are awesome!
Thank you Adam so much for these videos
Favourite video in the series so far! super cool with the "augmented reality" boulder beta on the wall. Keep it up
Thanks for sharing your amazing training tips and your vision. These “for free” series are unique and very inspirational.
I love this Ondra series
Oooh this is probably my favourite indoor bouldering video so far. Perfect editing with highlighting the holds for each boulder problem. Awesome! 🍻🍻
Such a wonderfully made video!
loved the part where you show the route, and the circle disappear after you get to the holds. perfect !!!
Every time I reset my home wall I watch this! Such a timeless episode!
The guy at the front 0:14 represents the fans of Adam when he suddenly starts screaming xD
Ahah 😉
YOU think? he is actually a good lad and very strong - not just an any fan...
He was not ready 🤣🤣🤣
The editing is so well done. Showcasing the problems and highlighting the holds so its super clear! I love it! Thank you very much to the editors for the amazing work and Adam for the expert climbing!
2:41 lmao
:'DDD
waaaaah
I heard a sheep-sort of sound :D mee-eh
Lol
I really appreciate the use of the little circles it was a very elegant, unobtrusive and intuitive way to keep us from getting lost in the sea of holds.
The graphics you added make all the difference, thank you! Makes it easy to follow along, as well as make us feel as if we almost could try to climb route ourselves, ha.
Beautiful vid, thanks, Adam! I hope our gym owners hear you!
Started climbing in 2002 with a 45 spray wall. Best indoor style. Creative, fun, and very social. I love how you’re advocating for it Adam!
Thanks Adam
I am just lovin the new intro
So glad he is training with Rishat, a speed specialist ! I hope Rishat gains all the experience he needs to crush at the Olympics!! 🤩
like a cellar in Sheffield from 1993, Noice... one of the few training concepts we got right first time!
Thank you for this, now I can use this as another piece of evidence why my home gym should add a spray wall lmao. Also awesome editing I really liked how easy it made each boulder easy to follow
That editing is insane. I want more of these in handfulls lol
this is fantastic
What a nice video!
Thankfully I feel like tools like the Kilter board are striving to bring the splash board back into prominence.
Also I feel like the splash board at my gym is going to see plenty of use now that this video is up!
Great video!
Impressive how strong Rishat is! 5:55
Wow! That move!!!!
boulder 4 looked insane!
its scary Adam is still getting better!
really liked the visualization of holds on the spray wall ;)
Epic!
so true more spray walls, please
wow i didnt know how valuable these are, i have one at my gym and its digital, the holds for the route are highlighted with leds and you can control the incline of the wall with a remote control. Def going to try this.
we have a spray wall in my gym its a very usefull tool for bouldering and doing endurance circuits /loop
Nice!: D
Great montage :D
Such cool boulder problems!!
Thank you for the words at the end! I think this will help, because people do what you say😂
I really should climb on these more, especially when my gyms have high quality spray walls.
This is all the gyms in Japan and I love it
2:40 Adam the baby
I like it that they dont cut out his screams :)
great video :)
sick !
Rishat is going to be a real contender at the Olympics. Mark my words.
I think he's the most well-rounded of all the speed climbing specialists. So if he manages a top spot in speed, then I wouldn't be surprised at all to see him on the podium.
@@dlln.1353 Yeah, most speed climbers are too specialized, in fact they're the ones who'd benefit the most if there were separate medals.
I agree with you! I think Michael Mawen too, he was a speed specialist that has been competing in bouldering a lot lately and doing extremely good
@@jorgeloredo9603 i got them mixed up too, Bassa is the speed specialist, Mickael is the all-rounder
just started with these crazy spray walls and its really fun to do but also tiring as hell
2:41 Adam seems so young there. like.. 2 :D
Stating the obvious but oh my, the muscles on this man!
editor of this video is a god
Our gym is just spray wall and coaches show us boulders and I think that this is great way to get better becouse they know what every single one can do and they try to push our limits
Can I come here, looks sick
Hey Adam!
thanks for all the great quality videos! any special tips on the type of holds to put on a spray wall?
Long live the good old school spray walls
Agreed! we have a small spray wall, where the holds never change, and its below other routes. Not inspiring at all. Here's hoping gym owners listen :)
The only gyms near me are geared towards making the most money as possible. I use to be an employee at one of them for the free climbing lo, they just had us push all the programs and camps for kids that they had to offer and try to make people who can’t even climb V1s- V3s rent shoes and chalk. Not to mention the 5+ birthdays we had per day.
You are very welcome at Exxpozed Climbing
I wish we had this ” old” style of climbing in Stockholm today. The indoor climbing has changed so its not as good for training. Today its really only one place out of 6 places. And I mean training for everybody. What happenend? Will we see smaller places with only training, like Kilter, Moon etc?Thanks Adam for you input, maybe you and only names like you can change it🙏.
wdychanie magnezji jest bardzo szkodliwe
Rishad looks really strong!
Will you make some moonboard sessions?
Record the video With magnus midtbø please 😀
Adam the G.O.A.T
yes please
Just goes to show. Even from what appears to be chaotic, flow and elegance is hiding somewhere.
the ability to set up problems just by pointing at the holds is indeed awesome. I miss my old gym for that.
Lokalblok v Praze na Andělu ... to je oldschool bouldrovka pouze se spray wally :D
We have a spray wall at my home gym but it's so steep and the holds are mostly so bad that it doesn't make much sense to train there without a certain amount of power and technique. Thats pretty unfortunate.
2:45 yay
As a beginner, I don't like spray walls unless I have an experienced climber to give me problems. Otherwise, it's just too daunting for a beginner like me to even know where to begin with route designs. It's really difficult to know roughly how difficult the problem will be when you're a beginner.
STOKT app, your gym might have problems already set on it via that app!
Great video! What music did you use?
Old gym are the best to get strong physically.
Whats the angle of the main wall ? Thak u so much.
He,s perfect body. 💪🏻💪🏻💪
Hi adam, I am in the process of building a home wall. Possible may turn into a spray wall type wall. Space is a limiting factor. The only space available is in my loft. To maximise the length of the wall and to make the build simpler the angle (on one side at least) will have to be 60°. Do you think this is too steep for a home wall? I am concerned that the angle will limit its usefulness. I do have plans in the distant future to add a 45° or 25° on the other side of the loft but the pitch of the roof will result in this side being a lot shorter (I.e 2.5m ish) and cost is also a factor. I am currently climbing V3 to V05 and struggle to fit more than 1 gym session a week in due to work/family commitments. So the idea of the build is to increase this to two or even three a week. Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Nice Shaggy cosplay!
i replayed 3:50 onwards at 0.5 speed probably 10 times to figure out what the heck is going on… still haven’t figured it out
Adam looking like shaggy in the thumbnail
Why "Road to Tokyo" series got renamed to "Adam Ondra" ? :( Copyrights?
What is the height of that spray wall? Seems like a really good height.
Jak bylo v Brně na závodech? A byl jsi druhý gratuluji
What is the brand of the big red slopes?
How does spray wall compared to moonboard or tension board regarding the effectiveness of training?
Saw the thumbnail, thought it was shaggy.
Anyone know the name of the song at 2:46?
There are 4 spray wall in my city : 1 spray wall and 3 moonboards
“Raggy? Is rat roo?”
More spray wall please gym owners.
2:43 hahaha
My local gym just created a Spray Wall a few weeks Ago :o Now iam motivated!
I didn’t quite get why these walls are better for training. Is it because you have more problems to do than on a normal wall? Also I wouldn’t be able to find any routes on one lol.
Anyone know what the angle of the wall at 2:54 is?
would you say there is a certain level you need to be on to be able to train on this kind of wall?
i mean i get that its a training tool, but can beginners use it as well? lets say someone who feel comfortable on V3/4?
swaglord I found that I needed quite a bit of foundational finger and arm strength (8 months climbing so far plus recent campus/finger board training) before I was able to do anything on our gym's 30/45° spray wall. I'm only able to manage V1/2 problems but they feel a good bit tougher than the normal gym climbing. Kinda matches my outdoor bouldering experience so far. Before now, I would be baffled at how strong you needed to be even to hold onto some of the spray wall holds.
Any idea what the angle of the wall is?