Great video, i just want to mention that there is one last resort before replacing crank shaft is using a good old welder, if you gonna junk the crank than at least you can just weld a magnet on the end of the shaft to get a little more out of it and position the timing just right, so this way you can ride a little longer without having to split the case and wait 24 hrs for case halves sealant to cure, maybe only sacraficing a magnet
thank u soooo f n much i have been having this same problem for some time now and done exactly like u change out after change out but the hole time only had one magnet tho and chould not figure out y every other pull from the rip cable would pull out of my hand snatching hole bike up and repeted cable brakes but every other pull would start up just fine idel fine and ride good and soung good this was driving me freaking crazy especily even after switching out compleat motors and everything but the f n magnet. lol and have not been able to locate any n fo till now and seen many many u tube videos.. you are the first person i have ever left a comment to... THANK YOU SOO MUCH U HAVE NO IDEA I WAS GOIN CRAZY LOL
no, I have a missing spark due to the crank seal leaking fuel oil onto my magneto. great tip to look at when I replace my seal and magneto, excessive elongation of the woodruff keyway. ..
Very important and useful information. thank you. This topic is as uncommon as a hen's tooth on You Tube. One chap got the timing corrected by leaving out the key; which he said he lost. This sounds like bad practice, but it gave him timing adjustment and it worked for him.
Do you have a video of how to replace the magnet? I’ve tried and can’t realign the magnet correctly for the timing New YD100 does exactly this sputters like a misfire at low throttle have new magnet just unsure of how to replace without interfering with the Timing
For anyone still looking for an answer... (this works for any small engine): Take out the spark plug. Rotate the engine so the piston is at bottom dead center (at the bottom of the cylinder). Insert a long piece of thin rope (or thick string) into the spark plug hole - leaving a decent piece of the rope outside the engine so you can remove it later! Then start to undo the nut. Initially the nut and the crankshaft will rotate until the the piston locks against the rope that is inside the cylinder. Keep undoing the nut and eventually it will come loose. Reverse the direction you are turning the engine when you are re-tightening the nut.
so far,mine are just fine after more than 1000 kilometers,,,but i do have some ignition problems,maybe because of these magneto issues,,,i'll figure it out then
I recently bought a retro style Huffy Roadmaster (I think that's the name) & wanted to motorize it. 2 questions-1- Would I need extra brakes to install where this is the "old fashioned" brake system of going backwards on pedals to brake? 2-It comes with 26 inch tires that seem wide, but was wondering if more brake power's needed, if I'd have to get thicker tires in order to handle braking power/ wear on tires?
Ronny Khmai I'm still unsure as to what size mounts I'd need if I'm really going to actually do this. The other thing is, I keep hearing about the fact that on an aluminum framed bike, a motor basically shakes the bike to shreds. Well, my Huffy beachcruiser style bike is an aluminum framed bike.
+Chris Geoffrey My motorised bicycle is an aluminium framed bike, and it's been faithfully operating for the last 7 years. It is true that a steel framed bike gives a noticeable reduction in engine vibration from reaching the rider, but having said that, if the engine is solidly mounted to the bike frame, the vibration is quite acceptable if keeping the engine under 3,600 rpm; and tuning the engine with various mods for increased low and mid range torque, which also increased engine reliability and longevity.
+Chris Geoffrey the last time i had an aluminum frame...i adjust the carb to idle low as possible and kept rev range 3-4k rpm..as fabian stated aslong you mount it snug tight it shouldnt vibrate hard..now that i uses a steel frame i actually can rev higher very minimal vibrations. but keep one thing in mind 2 stroke are known to vibrate reguardless.
ps, btw, I saw a nice Crusher style bike in my area (Turners Falls MA.) on sale for 399.00$. Figured I'd drop the info where I've seen these make pretty cool motorized bikes too. Was being sold @ this place called "Basically Bicyles". As an "ad on", not far away from that store, someone has a Puch style Moped along with a "spare parts" moped for 700.00$, again, figured I'd drop the info in case you or someone wanted a different kind of engine to work with, plus have @ least 2 frames & whatever left over for some other project. These Mopeds are @ this place on Avenue A in Turners that is a 'collector's' store, has all sorts of stuff in it but forgot the exact name of the place. I want to call it "Nick's" for some reason even though I think I'm wrong on name
Ronny Khmai on moped, it's one of the retro puch looking kind with peddles. I'd get it myself but A-not enough $ & B- I hate the paint job on it, its painted to resemble an italian flag
It is very difficult to get the woodruff key to stay in position when sliding the magnet over the shaft and woodruff key. I use a small flat blade screwdriver to help with the installation, but even then, it is very difficult to prevent to woodruff key from sticking to the magnet. Sometimes it has taken me over an hour to try and get the magnet installed.
Electric start does not exist for these engines, but i wished that someone would make a combined electric start and generator system, allowing you to charge up mobile devices when on a long trip into the middle of nowhere.
G'day Fabian, you seem to be the only bloke that know's what he's talking about with these engines, mine has stopped running, it was back firing and got more gutless and then died in middle of the road and I can't get it going again I had to walk it home, it was running great before that ride, any help would be grate:3
+Ronny Khmai lol I would of, if the old chain didn't snap a day before it while I was climbing a hill, but I got it running and a new chain for it, it appears it was the cheap China spark plug, so I got a new one and its right now.
+Crying Angel yeah 415 are weak..i uses ngk plugs and An American #41 chain they are stronger and relatively easier to find replacement at local hardware store,tractor supplies.
+Crying Angel there more then cheap china chain,plug ,the fuel line ,and the infamous NT carb those things are garbage i uses high performance carby ( dorletto sha 15 15 clone..)
+Ronny Khmai You will find that the standard NT carburettor is surprisingly reliable, when the air/fuel ratio is made optimal through installation of the correct main jet. Before changing to a diaphragm carburettor (similar design to a chainsaw carburettor) i ran the NT after trying the Delorto SHA, which gave no noticeable improvement.
the only video which helped me. really thanks Fabian
Great video, i just want to mention that there is one last resort before replacing crank shaft is using a good old welder, if you gonna junk the crank than at least you can just weld a magnet on the end of the shaft to get a little more out of it and position the timing just right, so this way you can ride a little longer without having to split the case and wait 24 hrs for case halves sealant to cure, maybe only sacraficing a magnet
Great video. Very informative and clear to see and understand the situation and your explanation. 👍
thank u soooo f n much i have been having this same problem for some time now and done exactly like u change out after change out but the hole time only had one magnet tho and chould not figure out y every other pull from the rip cable would pull out of my hand snatching hole bike up and repeted cable brakes but every other pull would start up just fine idel fine and ride good and soung good this was driving me freaking crazy especily even after switching out compleat motors and everything but the f n magnet. lol and have not been able to locate any n fo till now and seen many many u tube videos.. you are the first person i have ever left a comment to... THANK YOU SOO MUCH U HAVE NO IDEA I WAS GOIN CRAZY LOL
no, I have a missing spark due to the crank seal leaking fuel oil onto my magneto.
great tip to look at when I replace my seal and magneto, excessive elongation of the woodruff keyway. ..
was just curious as to what fell off the bike when you put on the carb? Didn't see what it was, but it made a heck of a noise
Another gem
Very important and useful information. thank you. This topic is as uncommon as a hen's tooth on You Tube. One chap got the timing corrected by leaving out the key; which he said he lost. This sounds like bad practice, but it gave him timing adjustment and it worked for him.
You can purchase offset keys.
Did that damage the Crank Shaft Slot ?
I don't have a pull start on my bike is this something I should worry about as well?
Do you have a video of how to replace the magnet? I’ve tried and can’t realign the magnet correctly for the timing New YD100 does exactly this sputters like a misfire at low throttle have new magnet just unsure of how to replace without interfering with the Timing
Do you file the key width or height to advance the timing?
When magnet crack in engine does it sound like knocking sound ??
Where can I get the key for the magneto?
Thanks max.
What size thread is that I'm trying to find a nut that will fit somebody help please
How do full out the mag ney
What if your magneto doesn't turn
Can this issue make your engine reve high ??
Should the magnet be spinning when I ride my bike?
3 years late, but if its not and your bike running, then somehow you must be spining around the magnet, but lol yes it should
Good video. Curious. Why is there a allen head cap screw threaded in your transfer port? Cheers.
Fabian uses a diaphragm carburettor. Another of his videos explains this. :)
i have a question how did you get the nut out to see the key way i tried to remove it but it turns everything with the magnet any solution ?
For anyone still looking for an answer... (this works for any small engine):
Take out the spark plug. Rotate the engine so the piston is at bottom dead center (at the bottom of the cylinder). Insert a long piece of thin rope (or thick string) into the spark plug hole - leaving a decent piece of the rope outside the engine so you can remove it later! Then start to undo the nut. Initially the nut and the crankshaft will rotate until the the piston locks against the rope that is inside the cylinder. Keep undoing the nut and eventually it will come loose. Reverse the direction you are turning the engine when you are re-tightening the nut.
so far,mine are just fine after more than 1000 kilometers,,,but i do have some ignition problems,maybe because of these magneto issues,,,i'll figure it out then
I recently bought a retro style Huffy Roadmaster (I think that's the name) & wanted to motorize it. 2 questions-1- Would I need extra brakes to install where this is the "old fashioned" brake system of going backwards on pedals to brake? 2-It comes with 26 inch tires that seem wide, but was wondering if more brake power's needed, if I'd have to get thicker tires in order to handle braking power/ wear on tires?
add a front brake you should be good.
Ronny Khmai I'm still unsure as to what size mounts I'd need if I'm really going to actually do this. The other thing is, I keep hearing about the fact that on an aluminum framed bike, a motor basically shakes the bike to shreds. Well, my Huffy beachcruiser style bike is an aluminum framed bike.
+Chris Geoffrey My motorised bicycle is an aluminium framed bike, and it's been faithfully operating for the last 7 years.
It is true that a steel framed bike gives a noticeable reduction in engine vibration from reaching the rider, but having said that, if the engine is solidly mounted to the bike frame, the vibration is quite acceptable if keeping the engine under 3,600 rpm; and tuning the engine with various mods for increased low and mid range torque, which also increased engine reliability and longevity.
+Fabian F ok, ty
+Chris Geoffrey the last time i had an aluminum frame...i adjust the carb to idle low as possible and kept rev range 3-4k rpm..as fabian stated aslong you mount it snug tight it shouldnt vibrate hard..now that i uses a steel frame i actually can rev higher very minimal vibrations. but keep one thing in mind 2 stroke are known to vibrate reguardless.
What do you mean by "bring the engine over top dead center"?
nexusdu06 the piston is at the highest point it can get in the cylinder
nexusdu06
With the head off the piston is level with the cylinder at 1:oclock position.
@@zoologicalmilitia2241 12 o clock
Sweet, check out my RAM AIR and gen video, it'll look sweet on your ride.
ps, btw, I saw a nice Crusher style bike in my area (Turners Falls MA.) on sale for 399.00$. Figured I'd drop the info where I've seen these make pretty cool motorized bikes too. Was being sold @ this place called "Basically Bicyles". As an "ad on", not far away from that store, someone has a Puch style Moped along with a "spare parts" moped for 700.00$, again, figured I'd drop the info in case you or someone wanted a different kind of engine to work with, plus have @ least 2 frames & whatever left over for some other project. These Mopeds are @ this place on Avenue A in Turners that is a 'collector's' store, has all sorts of stuff in it but forgot the exact name of the place. I want to call it "Nick's" for some reason even though I think I'm wrong on name
i lived near you lol.RI at the momment and im still driving my motorize bicyle in the cold and all.
i lived near you lol.RI at the momment and im still driving my motorize bicyle in the cold and all.
Ronny Khmai That crusher bike is sold now, but, the 700$ moped along with extra parts is still up for grabs
Ronny Khmai on moped, it's one of the retro puch looking kind with peddles. I'd get it myself but A-not enough $ & B- I hate the paint job on it, its painted to resemble an italian flag
+Chris Geoffrey am good..if i wanted a moped i would of bought one but itll defeat the purpose of me riding for free.
I can't get the woodruff key to stay still while putting in the magnet!
It is very difficult to get the woodruff key to stay in position when sliding the magnet over the shaft and woodruff key. I use a small flat blade screwdriver to help with the installation, but even then, it is very difficult to prevent to woodruff key from sticking to the magnet. Sometimes it has taken me over an hour to try and get the magnet installed.
Grease.
Fabian F
U ever figure it out
Sometimes I wank first then stick in the woodruff key and it holds well, magnet on a boom
Do they have any electric starts for these motors?
Electric start does not exist for these engines, but i wished that someone would make a combined electric start and generator system, allowing you to charge up mobile devices when on a long trip into the middle of nowhere.
There are kits with electric start ..bullet train kits have charging and electric start for example
A drill!!!! That's my electric start lol
It's best to make one!
G'day Fabian, you seem to be the only bloke that know's what he's talking about with these engines, mine has stopped running, it was back firing and got more gutless and then died in middle of the road and I can't get it going again I had to walk it home, it was running great before that ride, any help would be grate:3
+Ronny Khmai lol I would of, if the old chain didn't snap a day before it while I was climbing a hill, but I got it running and a new chain for it, it appears it was the cheap China spark plug, so I got a new one and its right now.
+Crying Angel yeah 415 are weak..i uses ngk plugs and An American #41 chain they are stronger and relatively easier to find replacement at local hardware store,tractor supplies.
+Crying Angel there more then cheap china chain,plug ,the fuel line ,and the infamous NT carb those things are garbage i uses high performance carby ( dorletto sha 15 15 clone..)
+Ronny Khmai You will find that the standard NT carburettor is surprisingly reliable, when the air/fuel ratio is made optimal through installation of the correct main jet. Before changing to a diaphragm carburettor (similar design to a chainsaw carburettor) i ran the NT after trying the Delorto SHA, which gave no noticeable improvement.
+Fabian F last time i tried NT carb it makes my engine sprays fuel from the muffler ..ill use the stock kit on my vintage bike to see how it goes tho.
Your crank shaft bearings is not sealed it should be sealed on one side of the bearing even with the outter black seal youll lose compression
Goos one Captain Obvious
JB Weld that sob.
YEEE HAW SEND IT