Motorized Bike Clutch Adjustment Tips & Secrets to Know
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- čas přidán 28. 12. 2014
- works almost every time. motorized bike clutch adjustment
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Hey man, so my flower nut/clutch plate came too tight. I was adjusting my cord and I couldn't free wheel. Finally I adjusted the flower nut and got that at the correct adjustment. BUT before I fixed that I think I adjusted the wire TOO tight and now for some reason the clutch arm disengages when pulled out (away from motor), and engages when pushed in. Basically the reverse of what it should do. I may have also some how damaged the wire when I adjusted too tight, it's barley moving when I pull the handle. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
a question, on the clutch cable I see U-tube show the bigger Spring in the kit. I've used small spring at the silver arm but then on other side of cable adjuster the longer an slightly wide spring (biggest 1 in kit) over the sleeve and cable on. I haven't used mine atall so does it help an how does it?
im having trouble putting on the drive sprocket cover. any solutions? Update readjusted the clutch and got the cover on but no the clutch has too much resistance.
Two things: Your clutch cable/housing run needs to be shortened, You have a good eye and technique for keeping the radius of the cable run in big loops, but you've also got a complete 180 degrees of cable/housing direction change at the engine end, which makes a lot of friction. When you run multiple bends into the cable it creates a lot of drag. Also a long cable has more drag, so it's compounded. If you can source better housing with a teflon liner, pull and grease up the cable before installing the clutch cable, while keeping your runs open and flowing. Everything will be smoother and easier. Secondly: The clutch arm can be pulled from the bucking-bar pivot in the outer sprocket cover and turned a few notches inward to get a better angle on the cable. It will ease the action of your clutch and increase your engagement zone so the clutch doesn't engage with a sharpish lurch. This reduces the sharp power loadings to the clutch, gears and spoke mounted sprocket. You do pedal up to speed before releasing the clutch?
Thank you for the tips. Your videos are really good and easy to understand thank you
Nice video bro. Good job explaining everything. I agree with you 100%. Yeah it is a challenge to lock that cable in single handedly.
How did you get around the oversized handle bars on the 29” Onex?
just changed the clutch pads on are bike but still having the problem were these no clutch how do you fix that
Ok what do you do when you clutch arm moves outwards not inward like yours does in this video what do you do to fix this problem i need help with this clutch problem
This worked! Thank you!
I didn't know you played with these things! I just had my set up for dirt out at the Dirty 30 Spring Mini Mayhem @ busco beach. These are a blast for off road if you don't mind a little beating! I have some performance parts OTW for dirt drag racing. Suposedly there's another Mini Mayhem in the fall.
My clutch won't engage unless the out position is 45 degrees further out (yes, sticking STRAIGHT OUT when the lever isn't pushed down) and running paralel to the fram when the cutch is engaged. This makes the spring useless, because it isn't designed to opperate with the clutch lever sticking out that far. Is there a way to adjust this, because it was clearly shipped to me from the bike shop out of adjustment to the position of the arm and the clutch plate itself.
I use vice grips to hold the cable after adjusting it so I can tighten it by myself.
good idea thanks it’s better than freaking using pliers
It seems like the arm needs to move more than the lever can move it or the clutch doesn't disengage the motor. How much should the arm move? It needs to move a full inch on mine but the lever only moves it half that and yes as soon as I pull the lever the arm moves.
new kit assembled. I had thunka thunka sound then clutch locked up while engaged. I tightened the clutch flower now bike moves while clutch is engaged. But no thunka sound. Any suggestions? Thank you
My bike seems to have a miss mainly low idle and not wide open and I've done some adjustments to the slide needle and I still have issues
Not sure if anyone can help me or if this is just the way it s but the bar the clutch cable goes through that goes in to the houseing is loose[the bar it’s self) is this the way it should be thanks in advance
This helps a lot, thanks. It turns out the problem was the chain had too much play and one piece of it wasn't feeding into the sprocket teeth. But I thought it was the clutch arm so I took that off, now I'll need someone to help me put that back. You're totally right, it cannot be done with one person. The pressure needed to put the clutch arm straight with the case is a ton. Just can't hold it and hold the string taut all the while tightening the cable seat screw >:(
How do I solve a back wheel still moving when clutch is out how do I fix’s it
Best advise ever!
I was at the point where the clutch was no longer engaging(stuck in the middle of disengaded and engaged ,lost one cable trying to get it to free ride without the engine, what i ended up doing was on the clutch arm itself there's a 10mm nut took that apart realigned the the arm and the shaft its connected to fully activate that clutch pin that enables you to ride the bike without the engine or to have it properly idle.all I can say is I hope you have patience because you will need to re-adjust the shaft so the round part will turn around with the clutch arm to deactivate the ignition of the engine(the clutch pin), it might take a few times of re-installing and installing the cover as well as re-assembling the clutch arm back on the shaft.after 2 or 3 times you should get her in the sweet spot and have a perfectly good set up once more.But if you mess it up don't panic and throw a sledge hammer at it, like I said just breath and try again.
Why is Rihanna subscribed to this dude lmao
Thanks
clutch arm wasnt touching the push pin.. How do u fix
I installed my new engine on my bike 🚲 but the back wheel won’t spin even with the clutch in any ideas of what I should do thanks
I had to file down my clutch arm because I had clearance issues and I had to get a U bolt and bracket for the front of the motor. It's been a hard build
Thank you very much! Without your video I would have had to take my bicycle somewhere for a five minute fix,
My nephew has a bike just like that but he's having problems with the rear tire bolts coming off when he is riding it, can you please help by telling him what the problem is? Thanks!!
Mine is super hard to pedal after I rode it for a day but I can push the bike and it doesn't turn over the motor but If I pedal it does 🤔
I had that problem.i did exactly what he said and it works great
I got one but my back wee just keep looked up
I had a hell of a time getting my bike to kick over & the problem was my clutch lever. I had it snug like your showing as that was exactly how the instructions & other people suggest to do it. But for my bike it seems that the lever was not releasing enough. So it would only crank then slip then crank etc. when I pedaled. It wasn't fully allowing the engine to crank enough & engage as it wasn't releasing all the way. But the other side of that problem if I set it so that it has more slack to actually release all the way, I then can't get it to pull on the lever enough to disengage the engine and be able to pedal...
I'm trying to find a way to be allowed to pull the lever enough to pedal yet when released to have it push out enough to engage the motor....
Would repositioning the lever on its shaft so that it is angled closer in help? I'm thinking that if I do that the spring will be able to push it out better but then I could still have the cable pull it in all the way. Not sure if that would be work or not but I need to figure something out. 😁
Im having the same problem 😑😢😢😢
So I’ve bought two 80cc Zelda kits now... idk if my chain tension is messed up or what, but both engines go together and hook up perfectly. I adjust the clutch cables and oil everything with 2 stroke oil before trying to start it up. But whenever I pedal to start it, as soon as I release the clutch lever, it feels like it’s just slowing down, and the bike is impossible to keep up at speed to start then. I can’t hear the piston moving up and down like I can in all my 49cc engines, it just kinda “squelches”
The seller of the second one told me to adjust the flower nut, I’ll try this tomorrow, and hopefully have good news then... any tips?
Yep. It should slow down.
Close the choke and hold the prime button. The first fire up takes about 30 seconds. Find a move hill, get up to speed, and let out the clutch with the choke closed and holding the prime - do this for ten seconds then open the choke and continue holding the prime.
Shell light 👍
My clutch arm keeps sits in the cover completely loose and is falling out after every time I ride it, hence having to unscrew the whole cover to put it back in place every time. Any help??
I think it's not sitting right
Duuuuude found your car vids a year ago, you and JD are hilarious. Now I have a motorized bike and you do vids on em? Hell fucken yea
I’ve been watching the channel for years never had a clue about him working on motorized bikes n I just got one last month I been scootin around on
@@MrPunkrocker2012 fuck yea brother, what you puttin on? What kind of motor?
Is the motorized chain ever supposed to be fully disengaged?
Hello I have the same kind of motor in this video but my to speed is only 18 mph and I'm told it's supposed to be at the top speed of 37 mph did I do something wrong putting my bike together?
No it just needs a good tune. If you tune it right it will go top speed I've seen these things go faster than 35 mph just gotta tune them and sometimes upgrade them
Why is my clutch arm loos it moves up and down going into crankcase is that gonna cause a problem down the line.i am having an issue also we're starting the bike won't seem to get clutch disengaged doesn't operate properly and won't catch compression to star? Please help ty
You need a new cover that goes over the small sprocket. It has a built in notch that the cam offset of clutch cover catches on when parallel with cover. You can sometimes add a small screw into it then grind off the head of screw thus creating a new pin to lock in the pin to the case cover
I took off my cover underneath my clutch and it wont open up with the lever its locked up
I. Use vice grips and kinda roll it on the arm then tighten
do you know why my gas bike may be hard to pedal because I got a new engine kit and it's hard to pedal please respond
Thats ur clutch not working i had the same prob
So I just bought a brand new engine setup just like yours to a t … started and ran great for two days , I went to adjust clutch it works and engages so that the bike would idle with the clutch lever pin in after doing that I went to start it after cooling down and seem as if I lost some compression and engine isn’t turning over as good I tried te adjusting it many times hasn’t changed anything and will not start now…. I can clearly tell that it’s not turn over hard enough when releasing the clutch any ideas ?
its ben a while so I'm assuming u either figured it out or gave up but if not I suggest trying to tighten the castle nut
Hey man my clutch won’t engage if I screw the casing in to tight. It engages fine when it’s lose but I’d like to know what if happening there
(RGV?! HeyO!!). Late reply, but I hope this help! Remove all slack from the cable! Snug that sucker up starting from the clutch lever on your handle bars, working your way back to Tue clutch lever on the motor.
• Loosen up the main nut until the clutch plate has enough play that you can wiggle it slightly with your fingers..(you may need to engage your clutch for this)
• Leave the clutch lever unlocked/free/alone as well as the clutch plate, and snug up the main nut with your fingers until your fingers can't (don't force yourself, but get it good) once your good and snug, engage your clutch by any lever, and give that nut ¼-½ turn more, and you should have a good clutch engage/disengagement.
*•MAKE SURE YOU PUT THAT LITTLE SCREW BACK IN THE CLUTCH PLATE!•* it locks the main but, and keeps it from slipping!
• Remember as the video said, make sure ALL your lines are snug.. The cable can be flopping about, but if there is slack in the line, you lose pull until the slack is gone, so makes sure you don't have a loose wire sleave and excess slack..
I recently picked up a motorized bicycle the pedals do turn using the regular will gear but the chain running to the motor does not spin what could be wrong
Same
Good advice sir .i use vice grips to hold the arm in place and then tighten it..i have a question for you if u could get me heading in the right direction i would appreciate it..i got this motor used and from day one..i noticed that the previous owner tightened up the flower not way to. Much.
But my problem is that it doesn't fully disengage or in gage. I have to get pedaling and manually pull the arm over then it engages fine i thought it may have been the pads getting old but now i feel it if the basket not I I just did right could also be I need a little bit longer buckyball depends that pushes it if you know what I mean I do want to get some heavy duty springs to put it back in place so I don't have to do it by hand
@@joerillarilla8524 man i hope you found your answer! my thought (a year later) is check the preload on the drive spring behind the clutch. you can loosen or tighten it without removing everything if you pull out the post for the clutch line where the heat spring rests and put the end of a small screwdriver, allen key, etc in and slowly rotate. you'll feel it drop into one of the slots on the internal flower nut that sets the tension. hold it in place and roll the bike (about a foot) forward to tighten, backward to loosen. put everything back together and check/set the flower nut on the outside again before you go.
since it's a year later, i guess just general info for folks reading the comments 😎
I could answer 99% of your questions
Thank you. I will check mine to make certain that there is no slack.
inside my clutch arm plate there is a small cylinder shaft and a ball bearing, i was installing my new chain and that cylinder piece and ball bearing came out and i put them back in but now my clutch arm plate wont go back on because that cylinder piece is not going back in all the way. do you know how to fix this problem?
Bobby Kimes tighten the flower nut on the clutch plate
burntrubberballs i did that and i still couldnt get the shaft a bering to go in?? there must be something else wrong but thanks for the info, i bought a new one
So when pushing the bike it's very clunky and I'm unable to pedal, any ideas?
Have this issue did you fix it
I installed my cable just like you did, with 0 slack. Works great except if I use the lock button on my clutch lever, it lets the clutch out a bit so the gear is engaged. How do I correct that?
Having the same issue
@@Gothguitarist I figured out the issue. You need to remove the clutch cover on the opposite side and adjust your clutch plate. You'll need to turn the flower nut 1 position counterclockwise. Hope that makes sense. If you've never messed with that part of the bike, be careful. There's a set screw you must remove before the flower nut can be adjusted and it is notorious for stripping. Pull in your clutch to release tension before trying to remove the set screw. If you strip the set screw, there's a fix for that I'll be happy to tell you about
hey i need help...my bike freewheel reguardless engage or disengage clutch
+Ronny Khmai have you done the adjustments that i have demonstrated in this video?
+ThunderHead289 thanks for the help man.unfornately ..freewheel issused was becuase they were no flat key in the keyway.which now have to wait for..ahhh the pain of the 2 stroke ..def going for 4 stroke for my vintage build.
The problem I'm having is that when I pull in the clutch I can't move the bike and it's not letting it go into gear. Idk if this is what the clutch hand can do but I can pull it right out of the motor piece. Please help.
Clutch arm not hand
adjust your clutch spring
even with proper adjustment and relaxed cable position, my clutch cable still only last 2 or 3 months before the crimped head snaps off at the handle, anyone else have this problem too? I'm switching to motorcycle cable next or heavier braided line.
Which end is that? Clutch lever side or motor side?
on the clutch side, on the handlebars side, even with a properly adjusted clutch the cables would snap off after 2-3 months use, and the cables were always brand new.
I'd remove the smaller return spring in front of the release lever , as it's not needed-John in Texas@@tomcatxsl6742
Have you seen this engine kit for 80cc Bullet Train Electric Start Bicycle Engine Kit - 2 Stroke Gas Powered Bike Motor Engine
Why mine is so hard to pedal should I loosen the chain more
No you have to hold you clutch in the tighter the chain the better
are clutches on these kits supposed to be like tight to pull on?
My throttle and clutch both feel way tighter than the used pre built motorized bike i bought. I built my own brand new and just finished today put gas in it havent got it running yet I need to shorten my chain again ugh
Hi question can you run the cluch with a twist grip instead of a brake lever
madmax1984 are you stupid
NamerZ998 i take it you didn't understand why i asked that question i have hydraulic brakes back and front and a cluch one can work on a grip twist seeing i asked that question so long ago
Mad max 1984.
I have not seen it been done. However you should be able to use a gripshift. You need to check that it rotates enough to pull the clutch full in. Bear in mind that with a gripshift you won't be a able to let go as the clutch will engage, no lock out. Or you could look at setting the gripshift tension to hold in the free position.
Alternatively fit a motorcycle twist grip , check that the cable entry is in the front so that the rotation of the grip pulls the cable. This will give more cable pull to free the clutch on rotation, make sure that there is some slack when rotated back to full engage the clutch.
Thee grip is full length like the throttle will be easier to hold instead of the smaller gear shift.
I have built close on 20 Motorised Cycles in the last 4 years.
I like your option.
Good luck.
I think you got that filter on backwards
its on the right way - its an automotive filter. there is even a little arrow on it that denotes the direction of flow. looks backwards because on cars the fuel goes from low to high, where on a motorcycle the fuel goes from high to low.
Would if the clutch is at an angle
Cheers bud
Mine squeals pretty loud and feels like it's slipping the entire time. Am I just too fat, or is my clutch crap?
Joblessalex.
Can't answer your 1st question.
Sounds like the clutch need tightening.
Lift the bike so that the rear wheel is off the ground.
1. Slacken the cable on the clutch arm, lhs cover.
2. Take off the clutch cover ( rhs).
3. Hold the clutch lever in and check if the wheel rotates freely. If too free , then need to be tightened up.
4. Remove the locking screw on the clutch center.
5. Hold the clutch lever in and rotate the Flower nut by 2 notches. Refit the locking screw.
6. Take up the slack in the cable and lock the screw on the arm.
7. Pull in the clutch lever , on the hand bars, and lock. The rear wheel should be able to turn. Release the lever , engine should be engaged.
Is it okay to use semi synthetic 2 cycle oil ?
no problem...
do u help with other questions about a gt5a 80cc motor how 2 install ctuch arm and shaft
Justin Johanson ? its the same. all the same. all from china.
+ThunderHead289 yep matter whos the vendor all china..
i tested my clutch before i hooked up my cable by jus pushing the clutch in. but it wont engage
It won't engage as in he can't disconnect the engine so it will idle, or as in it runs but you can't power the rear wheel with the engine
i have a question i just got a motorized bike i have a 49 cc two stroke engine i have heard you should release the clutch slowly and peddle when you first start the motor but how do i do this?
my homeboy has a brand-new engine Kit his clutch won't engage we took the cover off it's got a little 3 inch pin stickin out but when you have the clutch in the bike will not roll freely
Eric Cherry
same problem with my bike, what did you do to fix this? plz repl
Eric Cherry homeboy?
Eric Cherry did you end up getting a fix solution my bike is doing the same
The clutch lever on my engine, isn’t going down enough to engage. Pls help lol
Maybe it is too tight on the clutch flower nut
did the stock cranks work with that build?
+sunnylandcamper crank peddles on the bike? sure did
sunnylandcamper..only engine that require a extended crank assembly are 4 strokes...im done with 2 stroke my 2 stroke is currently collecting dust in my shed they need new clutch pads but im tired of fixing it.so i swap over to 48cc 4 stroke and build me a back one :)
FOR U TO SAY THAT I UNDER STAND BUT DUDE MY CLUTCH IS SO HARD THE ARM WOOD NOT MOVE AT ALLLL HOW IS THAT RIGHT I CUD NOT EVIN MOVE THE ARM IT WAS SO HARD TO I OPIN IT UP AND LOSEIN IT
My clutch won't disengage the motor how do I fix that?
,
czcams.com/video/zAp8h9WRXwI/video.html loosen the flower nut I think
Can u brake from pression the cluch lever?
Your fuel filter is on backwards. I also never recommend putting too much tension on the clutch lever when it is in the disengaged mode. That wears out the clutch cam that pushes the clutch breaker in. When disengaged it should gently be resting on the breaker. Also grease it from time to time with CV joint grease.
It doesn't freely roll when not started, can't pedal. Any pointers?
@@negativetim If not able to pedal (engine off) the clutch is still engaged. Clutch is out of adjustment.
@@negativetim That is normal behavior. You have to hold the clutch disengaged if you wish to pedal.
The little spring between the clutch arm and cable guide is redundant it literally does nothing.
Hey u really need help in my motorized bike because it does not want to turn on at all i need help asap
TARZAN HERNANDEZ details? does the engine turn over with the clutch lever released?
SAVAGE_ TARZAN up UI
Get pedaling, and release the clutch lever. Make sure it ain't all the way choked. Move the lever down a bit until it warms up, then move it halfway or so.
I HAVE THE SAME BIKE FRAME BRO💪🏾80cc
why is my clutch so stiff though, it takes all my strength to squeeze it
Any idea why my engine revs up when you pull in clutch
Idle screw/speed turned up too high. Meaning you need to turn idle screw down (counter clockwise) to lower idle speed.
@@pipedreams3057 I figured it out. turns out the throttle slide was stuck wide open lol
yes still freewheel sigh wether.clutch.in or out still move.freely
+Ronny Khmai oh shit, freewheels as in the engine is not connecting to the wheel. alright, im on the same page. pull your side cover off with your gears and adjust your flower nut. (the one with the screw on it) i beleive you will need to loosen this. loosen it a notch and then retry. im assuming it will take a few notches.
have you looked into this?
+ThunderHead289 yes it felt like not connecting..ill give it another try maybe tommoro..sigh first my old frame broke..soon as i transfer engine to build frame freewheel issue
+ThunderHead289 ill let you know how it goes tommoro
When ever I pull in my clutch the bike starts revving up and shakes
air leak or the idle is to high
what do u think bud
I hope you were kidding this guy is giving bad informations
Keep the cable straight lol 😂
Simon Taylor how is that funny?
Can some please help this idiot? I did exactly what the video said to do and it seem like the lever is not pushing the pin in far enough. Even when I push the lever in by hand the clutch still seems to be engaged. This is a new motor and I didn't try adjusting the clutch. So does the clutch need some kind of adjustment?
He's using far too much clutch cable length and probably in your case: You need to disassemble the sprocket side cover and grease up the pivot, bucking-bar and ball bearing living inside the sprocket output shaft. I'd also force in a few pumps of grease under the clutch cable stop bolt under the carburetor, as the inside of the output shaft is shipped dry of any grease for the bearings and actuator
Hi
80cc
But im watching it now
let me know if this helps at all
Well that was a waste of five muinutes....
Clutch plate wasn't even 10% right
From the factory there set up? I call bullshit
This video don't show me shit
The. You didn't pay attention
Of course I did big difference between telling and showing
+76guessagain I could have just not made it lol. Use your brain, if you have the ability to build the bike, you should be able to follow along with the instructional
Well if it's not helping delete it
Instructional? I didn't see you do anything but flap your gums
This is really bad information does not take two people to tighten the clutch cable
I know you're trying to help but you're really giving bad information and making it worse on people
Have fun with your queer little bike.
And a ton of people can’t figure out how to set the cable right, where their clutch lever travel is mostly consumed by slack
your an idiot
You should really take this video down