Shower door stores sell U channel trims. Those just needs to be installed on sides where wall plane transition to glass panel to cover uneven edge when you position glass panels on level curb. U channel are available in different thickness and can save up to an inch out of plumb tolerances. Also, modern U channels do not have that quarter round profiles of 90s so they look pretty slick with glass. The look and setup still stays frameless.
Thank you for all your videos! I watched nearly all of them throughout our bath remodel and learned so much! In the end, I had a gorgeous shower that drains wonderfully…no pooling anywhere, plumb walls and a Bluetooth speaker as a bonus! My contractor dad said it’s better tile work than his seasoned guys do!
After drilling the holes for the enclosure hardware, fill the holes with a sealant that will bond to whatever waterproofing material is used (not always silicone).
Thanks for always sharing your experiences. I’m a dork, but I literally take notes off your videos. You are literally my tile coach. I have a playbook of your techniques. I often have problems getting the products you use, but this channel has helped me save money and make money.
Thank for your videos! Tile setter here, I tore out a shower once years ago and the previous guy drilled hardibacker into the base of the shower pan. There were screws like ever 2-3 inches at the bottom. Same thing, the people just bought the house. I’ve always preferred (and was trained) hot mop, 4mil plastic, lathe, float. Never fails. But your technique and tips have been great. The more I see the more I have to learn and it’s such a great experience.
This shower didn't fail because he mixed a water in and water out system with a topical membrane. It failed because he did everything wrong.....Window flashing and liquid membrane over wood and a leaky old hot mop 🤦. If you install a pan liner correctly and waterproof the top of the mortar bed with liquid waterproofing, it won't fail even if you mix the 2 systems..... Moisture sandwich is a theory and not a fact. I would love to see a video where a Starrtile shower style fails.
That’s exactly what I was thinking. Even if you don’t put a pan liner and just waterproof the top . Does the moisture go into the subfloor? Moisture sandwich sounds scary but not logical.
I'm having some shower doors installed on a tile job I just did it's scheduled for this Friday, I'm going to be on site during installation to make sure if they do drill holes in my curb that they inject some silicone or other type of caulking into the holes prior to the screws, this way I can ensure my waterproofing won't be compromised by the door installation.
Either the flipper did this himself or he hired a "professional" to do it. It bugs me that there are moron pros who still do this kind of crap work. Make sure the walls are flat and level, use the right sized notched trowel, waterproof and make sure you get at least 95% coverage, back butter your tiles....why is that so hard to follow? I really appreciate your channel, dude. You've taught us so much.
Absolutely I’ve had the “no no no don’t drill thru my WP” conversation …I was told I’ll fill it completely with silicone and I’ve never had a leak. I leave it with the homeowner as they’re taking responsibility for any curb issues. Then I feel terrible for them and the position they’ve been put in. I now form my curbs a bit thicker on top with deck mud and insist no more than 1” anchors.
They had a very sloppy troweling technique too, every tile you lifted I could see uncollapsed trowel lines, meaning they likely should have used 1/2" trowel and back butter the tiles, and they did not mash the tiles deep enough into the mortar to make the trowel line scollpase. I also saw one of the wall tiles you removed, there were criss crossing trowel lines, another big no-no. All the trowel lines under a tile should be in the same direction so air can escape and trowel lines will collapse down.
After 25 years in construction, I've seen and demo'd some crazy stuff. My ''favorite'' was a 30 year old house that had a complete reno at the 20 year mark. House is now worth about 3 mil. Owner saw a tiny stain on a first floor ceiling below the steam shower. What we found left us in awe. Multiple floor joist rotten, a 4 ply engineered beam with 25% rot over a six foot section, three feet on the bottom of multiple studs gone from rot. That beam picked up the second floor joist AND an exterior wall and roof load! The cause? When the tiler set the EPDM liner, they proceeded to use their POINTED trowel to work in the dry pack base. Around the perimeter of the liner were ten triangular shaped slits in the rubber! Probably cost the owner $20k in repairs.
Your videos are a great tool. I’m tearing out a friend of mines shower floor because some fix and flip shower guy didn’t sandwich the membrane in the pinch plate and he had a leak in his garage. 🤦🏼♂
Wow..... crazy how many jacklegs there are...we see this all the time. It's really sad 🤬 Thanx for bringing this to light for the homeowners that spend they're savings to renovate they're homes! People that do work like what your showing need to realize....and give a shit that alot of people are trying to get they're homes on point and secure for they're later years now while they can.... Smdh... just a Damn shame 🤬 Thanx again for this and thanx for All your trying to do 💯😎👍
11:34 hey Isaac. I’m saying yes to Mapei aqua Defense as last year they changed the color and that looks like it. Sad that brand new homeowners have to deal w/ this, but it’s common and that’s the sad thing, imo. Glad they found a great experienced tile contractor to help them out. Great vid showing. The one good thing about a bad job, demo is usually easier. Cheers✌🏻
Ah the days of working on flip houses. Rough door openings framed with single 2x4s to finished size. Walls framed 2" off from top to bottom. Working around pvc pipes only to knock down the whole unglued run. Enough tile lippage and to make a grown man cry.
Hey I love your videos and insight. I did want to say one thing. I have been doing shower enclosures (3/8 and 3/16 glass sizes) for years. The reason the shower guy drilled into the curb like that is because there is no other way to anchor the clips down to the curb. What they are supposed to do when they fill the hole is use mold resistant silicone in order to keep the water from protruding below the shower pan and possibly leaking past that. Plus you silicone around the clips again after everything is mounted and set. Also if the curb is pitched properly it shouldn't have standing water on it anyway. You can also use channel and wet set it on the curb which will keep the glass stable with clip assistance on the wall to keep it stable throughout.
Yeah I would use channel as it is a lot more forgiving for outages and issues you may run across. Sometimes I do channel on the curb and then a clip or two on the wall depending on the tilework.
Also glad you addressed the elephant in the room of lots of contractors using redgard wrong, it's important that you use the product properly and essential that you use the proper style drain with weep holes and that it's a multi piece design, seen so many vids of people using redgard with single piece drains and drives me crazy, they're basically trapping the water with nowhere for it to ever go...
can u explain the issue so beginners like me understand the mistake? is the problem that installers redgard the entire cement floor before laying the small tiles and that they should not redguard the floor? Is the issue with no weep holes that water in the floor pan just stays there unless the drain has weepholes?
@@BillSW Isaacs point on not using waterproofing liquid/or not membrane on panliner/hotmop showers bed is that those systems imply water absorbing into mortar bed to weep into drain over panliner surface that is why preslope that panliner sits on is a must. Sealing such mortar bed with membrane creates water trap as membrane does not let water trapped in mortar evaporate so whole mortar bed converts into moisture accumulator which will lead to nothing good in long term perspective. Not to mention that panliner based showers are quite thick and heavy which may not be best idea for non ground floor installs.
100% this…. I’ve got customers I did showers for over 15 years ago that are redgard and with a Mark E Industry shower pitch kits. It’s not the fastest way to do it but I know it works, I have the tools lined out to do it and im proficient at it. I know it works so I keep doing it.
Even though I don’t always do things exactly right I overbuild so much it usually doesn’t matter. I’m doing a bathroom upstairs now that’s a wood floor. I just started and I treated the plywood floor with kilz just cuz. Once the cement board is down I’ll use Redgard on everything It should hopefully never have a problem.
@TileCoach - Absolutely nothing wrong with anchoring long screws through water-proofing membranes. They *need* to be anchored deep into wood/concrete structure below. The fix is simple: clean the hole out after drilling it and then fill it with silicone before you screw anything down. It will completely fill the gaps and gush out. Clean the excess. And Voila.
@@Tilethoughts what about a rubber gasket between the tile and bottom of bracket around the screw but in the shape of the entire footprint of the bracket?
@@MV-wb2cz that would probably help but water will still most likely find a way to get in there... What I did on mine is cut the screws to 3/8 of an inch on the curb and drilled holes same depth and set in epoxy.. with no compromise to the waterproofing
Excellent video! Love my tile coach. I learn a lot from these. IMO, ditch the distracting green screen at intro. Love the air scrubber hum though! That is real life lol
They’re called cowboy builders for a reason. It’s just woowww I can’t believe what i just saw. Scarier than a horror movie 😆 Thanks for being honest and a coach Zac. Blessings will just keep on coming to you. Peace 🙏🏽❤️
If screwing through the curb membrane for door and wall placement is a common problem, why isn’t this addressed in industry standards? The fact that multiple companies could be involved (tilers then door guys) and lack of communication is problematic.
Haha also a plumber. Love these vids. For the glass door install, it's maybe not the solution you're after but applying silicone along the thread of the screw and then adding a very tight bead around the brackets should suffice
That’s what I did. Pre drilled the holes and filled them with silicon before inserting the screw. Then a blob of silicon over the screw inside the glass clamp. I would never trust the tile itself to hold the anchor in place.
@@MoneyManHolmes Has anyone used a blind threaded insert? You could use the kind that are sealed in the bottom and in stainless steel. Use an epoxy for installing into the predrilled hole. Maybe some silicon sealant on the screws to keep the water out.
This is also why you hire an OCD inspector/ appraiser to work for YOU. They can catch a lotta stuff. Going by the appraisal from the Seller or their Realtor is asking for trouble.
What about also using pieces of self-sealing rubber (or silicone) tape under the the glass anchor tabs? I’m talking about the stuff electricians use to seal outdoor fittings. Then when the screw is driven through, the tape will seal it.
Thats fine and dandy, but the real problem could be from wicking, capillary action. Question is, will the thinset suck up enough water to make it to where the screw holes are? I think putting silicone down the screw hole would work good. But wish there was an easier way to secure the door without drilling through the water proofing membrane.
Schluter introduced in 2010 so it's too early to be the end-all-be-all until someone does a video having to come back and dissect/remodel a properly done Schluter system vs a properly done topical membrane vs a mix of the two in a controlled similar environment.
My glass guy uses no brackets. High strength structural silicone only. Two steps: 1. Puts a bead down and shims it level about 1/8 gap between glass and curb, so the silicone doesn’t get squeezed out. 2. Next day removes the shims and silicones the gap left from removing the shim. No holes, no leaks, no brackets to clean around. Only good.
It’s not about the type of waterproofing over the mortar, it’s about the overall system being used. In a sealed system using a bonding flange drain and no pvc liner you would waterproof everything right up to the drain flange. When you don’t want to waterproof a mortar pan is when you’re using an old school pvc liner system with a pre slope and clamping ring drain. That system must be able to allow water into the mortar bed. Hope that helps!
I don't install glass doors or panels, but I understand sometimes it's hard or near impossible for them to install big heavy glass without anchoring the brackets to the curb. What I've seen them do is glue the brackets with some sort of crazy strong epoxy or something similar. If they absolutely have to drill, they fill the holes with that epoxy and screw the brackets while It's still wet.
In my opinion screw holes are rarely if ever an issue, all is needed to squeeze some sealant into drilled hole and use stainless screws, also generous squeeze of sealant under glass holder bracket as wont hurt. Those simple protective treatments cost nothing for glass installers, but they never do that, as they don't care of longevity of your shower. Their task to install glass and not scratch or break tile work and get out immediately to new job.
Thanks for your great videos. Ive checked a bunch of your videos. Im building a new shower in a basement and Im trying to find out where you explain the build of the base. Ive seen where drywall, and cement board are set Dehind the pan etc where you have shown the problems. Its where the wall and the base or pan come together im trying to plan. Thanks again
red guard, Starr tile cough cough. I got out of tile and got into glass. There are several designs that avoid horizontal penetrations, it's not something we like doing. but for a frameless door there isn't much choice. I sink them all the way, but I make sure to clean out the hole as good as possible and add sealant. The hole is completely covered by the glass and silicone and even if that were the fail the plug fits really tight and heats up a little when you drive the screw so sorta acts as a seal also.
My shower door guy does not put screws Ann any horizontal surfaces. When he drills holes in the wall he uses caulking in the hole, then puts the anchor, then caulks again, then screws, then caulks over top and puts the cover on
I'm a homeowner and when I built my house, I did all the tile work. My shower is a mud base with a pre slope and PVC liner and then a mud pan. I did use treated 2x4's for the curb, but they are wrapped with PVC and no nails with a mud layer over them around 1/2" thick. The walls are durock and I coated them with Aqua Defense. I did end up with some lippage, but nothing like what you're showing here. After seven years, there is no sign of leakage, The ceiling below is in a storeroom so not finished. I'd know if it leaked.
I think one of the best ways to avoid issues with curb damage is using granite on the top of the curb because it eliminates any chance of water absorbing into the tile or grout and just silicone your holes and whatever you need to fasten. I think it's enough to last 20-30 years. But even then, if you're a home owner that understands proper maintenance, youll be re-caulking things in 5-10 years. I don't see a big issue with drilling through the curb, but that's only if you're using a granite top. If it's tile i would not be as confident.
Tile Coach gave me the confidence to renovate my own shower. Thank you! I even trimmed the screws on my glass enclosure to avoid penetrating my curb waterproofing.
I'm a tile guy and trim carpenter. You shouldn't have been obsessed with having perfectly plumb walls. You could have reframed the walls out of plumb to reuse the glass. It wouldn't have been noticeble. I've never done this intentionally with tile because I never had to reuse a glass enclosure. But with trim, I often install a door slightly out of plumb and/or rip my casing because the adjacent wall is out of plumb, and it would look like I made a mistake it I installed everything plumb and the reveals were uneven. Goal is to get the best look and a door that works as it's supposed to. If you have lemons, make lemonade.
20+ years of setting tile in the Bay Area. Can't even count how many times a real estate agent that's driving by sees me making a cut on the front lawn of customer's house and pulls over to ask me if I do side jobs. It's unequivocal "no". Because they are looking for a cheap price and I don't think it's right to take a side job while I'm actively representing a licensed contractor on the job I'm at. Besides, I only do side jobs for family or close friends.
Poke a hole their goes the waterproof. There are many shower door companies in rocky mountain west that don't penetrate to anchor. I have worked for only a few house flippers, the reason being is I won't drop my price to get anyone's work. Cost what it cost. What finish people do is art. I am about to retire, I figured out a long time ago I don't want to be known as the cheapest guy they could find. I am known as the company that keeps the client informed from start to finish and who's price was well worth the cost. By the way good Mr. Ostrom.
Bro the glass guy doesn't make the walls square. He cuts the glass to fit the shower whatever shape it is. This shower was out of square so the glass was too.
flip house is going to use a cheap $1500 kit glass enclosure, not something custom cut. It's 'ea$ier' to just tear it out and install a new kit that you sell to the homeowner for $3k - 4k; man's got to make a living and a flip home buyer wont know the difference.
Silicone in the screw holes before the screws go in plus caulking between the sill and the shower glass plus a slight inward slope on the sill should give you three lines of defense against water getting past a screw. My feeling is that the screw holes are not the issue here.
This is the exact reason why I will not purchase a flip. These flip homes have a alot of eye candy, but all they did was throw lipstick on a pig. Sad, sad, sad. 😔
I seen so many people do this!!! They would do the pan liner then pour the bedding then red guard over it LOL. There’s a guy on CZcams that is notorious for that.
"Homeowner wants to see where the leak is". Pick any spot - you've got it! What's the difference, anyway, in this case? Buying a house is a very rough thing. Are there inspection companies that can detect problems like this before buying?
Lately been using only loctite crystal clear power grab for the base of the glass, stuff is super strong... Can't trust any hole even filled with silicone eventually water wins
Actually that looks like something someone did themselves. I fixed the drywall and tile in a bathroom my buddy's wife did herself. I almost turned the job down after I looked at it. The person that sold them their tile told them they could put down right over the plywood. No durarock, no Hardiebak, no schluter system, no nothing. It was interesting to say they least.
I have a fantastic idea. Everytime tile coach puts out a shower failure video every tile contractor on this page should agree to raise their prices. These assholes that install these abominations got to make money off it even though it has to be ripped out and redone. Why don't we deserve more for one that lasts?
What do you think about putting hydroban liquid Over a pitched dry pack mud job b4 tiling? I know it's water in n out system but many times I worry the plumber covered all the weep holes wt silicone products.Many plumbers in my area OR contractors are tryin to save money by mudding the pan themselves. You think putting hydroban liquid on top of dry pack is pointless right?.?
How far out of plumb are the walls? For 3 grand I think I could live with the wall out of plumb a little. The bubble in the 4' level was still between the lines so I doubt it was a noticeable eye catcher. I would have consulted the owner on the cost to make the walls exactly plumb and have to buy a complete new glass inclosure or if it was that big of a deal, in fact I bet no one even noticed. How much extra work and cost will it be to make the walls plumb and purchase new glass?
What pisses me off most is that to do what they did, it still took quite a bit of time and effort. Like, just put in 20% more of what you've already put into it, and do it properly. All of that effort and work for nothing....only to have to be redone.
I am not hating on anyone, but this is the reason why I dislike cheap "contractors" STOP CALLING YOURSELF A CONTRACTOR. There is a reason why must homeowners are "getting a great deal$$$" cheap labor+cheap materials+doing everything the wrong way= "GREAT DEAL" That homeowner is going to have to pay couple of thousands to get that bathroom done the right way. I am glad this man is exposing everything that was done wrong in that bathroom. Homeowners, renovations is not what they show you on HGTV and if you want your renovation, which is an investment in your property, get a real professional and be ready to pay for that expertise and quality of materials and work. I am sick and tired of hearing the homeowners saying, WoW that estimate is so expensive, I can do it myself or get Juan do it for cheaper 🤬
Hi Isaac, I’m looking to do a traditional pan with liner and threepiece drain. Do you have any videos that run through the steps? I’m a carpenter by trade but I find myself stuck in your videos more than often!! Lol
I worked for awhile installing shower doors. Those holes should have been silicone and then after you install the glass clamp you silicone the the screw head and the remainder. Anyone that knows how to do this properly wouldn't make any mess either. Just a cobbed shower door install. You can also do channel and you use construction grade double sided 3m tape for the bottoms. People dont like that look. When I would measure for a shower I would always push for channel on bottom clamps on side if they didn't want channel all around. Channel is the way to go. Obviously screw your sides in the the walls but you always silicone everything after. Channel to tile channel to glass.
All those home flip shows make me laugh I would not want to be a person who actually buys one of those houses many times when you watch the camera show the "after" if you really study you can see a whole bunch of horrible finish work. Like you said it's all about making money as fast as you can and moving onto the next while the victims have to live with all the mistakes and pay even more to fix them.
Hey Isaac I'm out here in socal and would really like to learn pool tiling techniques if you know any. Alot of work presents it self out here in the Coachella Valley and I want to do it to your standards
Who ever buys a house and knows it’s a flip most often deserves the mess they bought! If you buy the house you can pretty much remodel it w/o a contractors licenses and hv at it! Then it’s a matter of looking for a sucker to buy it???? Before you buy a house hire someone like me to go thru it! Most inspectors do not even ask about who did the remodel? What a mess!! And the sellers knew they had no idea what they were doing ! But did it anyway!!! Never, never ever, never buy a flip house!!!!!
Hey, been watching your channel for a while now. What do you recommend for the Shower panels, if not drilling into the curb/floor? I wouldn't trust just silicone to hold the panels for 10+ years. I install shower Enclosures, and always drill into the tile/curb, adding silicone around/ in the anchor hole. No problems yet for me, but I can see it being a problem, if it is not properly sealed. Any other recommendations?
Can you not cut about 1/2 or inch off the glass and re square the glass panels so you can reuse them? It would just shrink the shower areas just a bit.???
I also just moved into a new house and they had to gut the entire shower because someone slit the shower pan. When they took apart the tile, I noticed everything was “cookied” like you mention in the video. One glob on each tile but not properly spread. The tile guy I hired said it was dangerous because moisture can get behind that and eventually cause tile to fall. Would you agree? I have two other showers that they did where I presume it was the same method and I don’t want them to be unsafe.
Why 95% of coverage re cuired on the external side of the curb? Not so much water wold go there and what is the issue of having a bit of air in that are?
I'm a plumber and have never laid tile before but this channel is still one of the most informative and concise channels on here, love the vids man
perfect example of the purpose of a building permit. Not only for the contractor to be accountable, but for the homeowner to know it was done to code.
I’m so addicted to watching these, can never learn to much on CZcams, especially when you learn so well visually
Shower door stores sell U channel trims. Those just needs to be installed on sides where wall plane transition to glass panel to cover uneven edge when you position glass panels on level curb. U channel are available in different thickness and can save up to an inch out of plumb tolerances. Also, modern U channels do not have that quarter round profiles of 90s so they look pretty slick with glass. The look and setup still stays frameless.
Ya for $2,500 I could think quite A few things to make it look good.
@@DK_tk3 i agree, i might even redo the plane of the new wall to match as long as there is no lip out
It can also be recut square by a professional glass installer.
@@howtodoitdude1662 tempered glass cannot be recut
Good job coach. At this time I think that more than 50% of installers still do not know the rules of installing tile, stone, mosaics, etc
Thank you for all your videos! I watched nearly all of them throughout our bath remodel and learned so much! In the end, I had a gorgeous shower that drains wonderfully…no pooling anywhere, plumb walls and a Bluetooth speaker as a bonus! My contractor dad said it’s better tile work than his seasoned guys do!
After drilling the holes for the enclosure hardware, fill the holes with a sealant that will bond to whatever waterproofing material is used (not always silicone).
Thanks for always sharing your experiences. I’m a dork, but I literally take notes off your videos. You are literally my tile coach. I have a playbook of your techniques. I often have problems getting the products you use, but this channel has helped me save money and make money.
$6000 shower replacement because of a leaky drain that could have been fixed through the drywall ceiling for $200.
true
Some people don’t think out of the box like us.
Thank for your videos! Tile setter here, I tore out a shower once years ago and the previous guy drilled hardibacker into the base of the shower pan. There were screws like ever 2-3 inches at the bottom. Same thing, the people just bought the house. I’ve always preferred (and was trained) hot mop, 4mil plastic, lathe, float. Never fails. But your technique and tips have been great. The more I see the more I have to learn and it’s such a great experience.
This shower didn't fail because he mixed a water in and water out system with a topical membrane. It failed because he did everything wrong.....Window flashing and liquid membrane over wood and a leaky old hot mop 🤦. If you install a pan liner correctly and waterproof the top of the mortar bed with liquid waterproofing, it won't fail even if you mix the 2 systems..... Moisture sandwich is a theory and not a fact. I would love to see a video where a Starrtile shower style fails.
That’s exactly what I was thinking. Even if you don’t put a pan liner and just waterproof the top . Does the moisture go into the subfloor? Moisture sandwich sounds scary but not logical.
Starr says he never had have a failure doing it this way. I believe him
I'm having some shower doors installed on a tile job I just did it's scheduled for this Friday, I'm going to be on site during installation to make sure if they do drill holes in my curb that they inject some silicone or other type of caulking into the holes prior to the screws, this way I can ensure my waterproofing won't be compromised by the door installation.
My guy is coming on Monday and same situation. Says he needs to drill into curb so think the silicone is all I can do now.
Either the flipper did this himself or he hired a "professional" to do it. It bugs me that there are moron pros who still do this kind of crap work. Make sure the walls are flat and level, use the right sized notched trowel, waterproof and make sure you get at least 95% coverage, back butter your tiles....why is that so hard to follow? I really appreciate your channel, dude. You've taught us so much.
Absolutely I’ve had the “no no no don’t drill thru my WP” conversation …I was told I’ll fill it completely with silicone and I’ve never had a leak. I leave it with the homeowner as they’re taking responsibility for any curb issues. Then I feel terrible for them and the position they’ve been put in. I now form my curbs a bit thicker on top with deck mud and insist no more than 1” anchors.
They had a very sloppy troweling technique too, every tile you lifted I could see uncollapsed trowel lines, meaning they likely should have used 1/2" trowel and back butter the tiles, and they did not mash the tiles deep enough into the mortar to make the trowel line scollpase. I also saw one of the wall tiles you removed, there were criss crossing trowel lines, another big no-no. All the trowel lines under a tile should be in the same direction so air can escape and trowel lines will collapse down.
Lol I love how they unintentionally jack mitered the curb 🤣
My man starrtile getting a shout out at the end of the video 👍
After 25 years in construction, I've seen and demo'd some crazy stuff. My ''favorite'' was a 30 year old house that had a complete reno at the 20 year mark. House is now worth about 3 mil. Owner saw a tiny stain on a first floor ceiling below the steam shower. What we found left us in awe. Multiple floor joist rotten, a 4 ply engineered beam with 25% rot over a six foot section, three feet on the bottom of multiple studs gone from rot. That beam picked up the second floor joist AND an exterior wall and roof load! The cause? When the tiler set the EPDM liner, they proceeded to use their POINTED trowel to work in the dry pack base. Around the perimeter of the liner were ten triangular shaped slits in the rubber! Probably cost the owner $20k in repairs.
Yup, custom shower bases can make a nightmare ..
Great air scrubber set up.
Your videos are a great tool. I’m tearing out a friend of mines shower floor because some fix and flip shower guy didn’t sandwich the membrane in the pinch plate and he had a leak in his garage. 🤦🏼♂
Simply WOW!!!
Mind BLOWN!!!!
Wow..... crazy how many jacklegs there are...we see this all the time.
It's really sad 🤬
Thanx for bringing this to light for the homeowners that spend they're savings to renovate they're homes!
People that do work like what your showing need to realize....and give a shit that alot of people are trying to get they're homes on point and secure for they're later years now while they can.... Smdh... just a Damn shame 🤬
Thanx again for this and thanx for All your trying to do 💯😎👍
11:34 hey Isaac. I’m saying yes to Mapei aqua Defense as last year they changed the color and that looks like it.
Sad that brand new homeowners have to deal w/ this, but it’s common and that’s the sad thing, imo.
Glad they found a great experienced tile contractor to help them out.
Great vid showing. The one good thing about a bad job, demo is usually easier.
Cheers✌🏻
Ah the days of working on flip houses. Rough door openings framed with single 2x4s to finished size. Walls framed 2" off from top to bottom. Working around pvc pipes only to knock down the whole unglued run. Enough tile lippage and to make a grown man cry.
Hey I love your videos and insight. I did want to say one thing. I have been doing shower enclosures (3/8 and 3/16 glass sizes) for years. The reason the shower guy drilled into the curb like that is because there is no other way to anchor the clips down to the curb. What they are supposed to do when they fill the hole is use mold resistant silicone in order to keep the water from protruding below the shower pan and possibly leaking past that. Plus you silicone around the clips again after everything is mounted and set. Also if the curb is pitched properly it shouldn't have standing water on it anyway.
You can also use channel and wet set it on the curb which will keep the glass stable with clip assistance on the wall to keep it stable throughout.
Would you reccomend u channels over clips on curbs?
Yeah I would use channel as it is a lot more forgiving for outages and issues you may run across. Sometimes I do channel on the curb and then a clip or two on the wall depending on the tilework.
Also glad you addressed the elephant in the room of lots of contractors using redgard wrong, it's important that you use the product properly and essential that you use the proper style drain with weep holes and that it's a multi piece design, seen so many vids of people using redgard with single piece drains and drives me crazy, they're basically trapping the water with nowhere for it to ever go...
can u explain the issue so beginners like me understand the mistake? is the problem that installers redgard the entire cement floor before laying the small tiles and that they should not redguard the floor? Is the issue with no weep holes that water in the floor pan just stays there unless the drain has weepholes?
@@BillSW Isaacs point on not using waterproofing liquid/or not membrane on panliner/hotmop showers bed is that those systems imply water absorbing into mortar bed to weep into drain over panliner surface that is why preslope that panliner sits on is a must. Sealing such mortar bed with membrane creates water trap as membrane does not let water trapped in mortar evaporate so whole mortar bed converts into moisture accumulator which will lead to nothing good in long term perspective. Not to mention that panliner based showers are quite thick and heavy which may not be best idea for non ground floor installs.
What’s the solution? Is the Flow FX drain the one to use in this scenario?
100% this…. I’ve got customers I did showers for over 15 years ago that are redgard and with a Mark E Industry shower pitch kits.
It’s not the fastest way to do it but I know it works, I have the tools lined out to do it and im proficient at it. I know it works so I keep doing it.
Love this man. Learning daily with your videos.
I am an aluminum fabricator, I have learnt lot of things on frameless glass Partition....great site and am hopeful to learn more here
Even though I don’t always do things exactly right I overbuild so much it usually doesn’t matter. I’m doing a bathroom upstairs now that’s a wood floor. I just started and I treated the plywood floor with kilz just cuz. Once the cement board is down I’ll use Redgard on everything It should hopefully never have a problem.
@TileCoach - Absolutely nothing wrong with anchoring long screws through water-proofing membranes. They *need* to be anchored deep into wood/concrete structure below. The fix is simple: clean the hole out after drilling it and then fill it with silicone before you screw anything down. It will completely fill the gaps and gush out. Clean the excess. And Voila.
Doesn't work...
@@Tilethoughts what about a rubber gasket between the tile and bottom of bracket around the screw but in the shape of the entire footprint of the bracket?
@@MV-wb2cz that would probably help but water will still most likely find a way to get in there... What I did on mine is cut the screws to 3/8 of an inch on the curb and drilled holes same depth and set in epoxy.. with no compromise to the waterproofing
@@Tilethoughts but then doesn't the epoxy get exposed to the water over time which will delaminate it and fail the shower glass?
Excellent video! Love my tile coach. I learn a lot from these. IMO, ditch the distracting green screen at intro. Love the air scrubber hum though! That is real life lol
They’re called cowboy builders for a reason. It’s just woowww I can’t believe what i just saw. Scarier than a horror movie 😆
Thanks for being honest and a coach Zac. Blessings will just keep on coming to you.
Peace 🙏🏽❤️
If screwing through the curb membrane for door and wall placement is a common problem, why isn’t this addressed in industry standards? The fact that multiple companies could be involved (tilers then door guys) and lack of communication is problematic.
Thanks for sharing, your short video might just save someone from making a big mistake. Charles
Thank you Sir for great information 👍
Haha also a plumber. Love these vids. For the glass door install, it's maybe not the solution you're after but applying silicone along the thread of the screw and then adding a very tight bead around the brackets should suffice
That’s what I did. Pre drilled the holes and filled them with silicon before inserting the screw. Then a blob of silicon over the screw inside the glass clamp. I would never trust the tile itself to hold the anchor in place.
@@MoneyManHolmes Has anyone used a blind threaded insert? You could use the kind that are sealed in the bottom and in stainless steel. Use an epoxy for installing into the predrilled hole. Maybe some silicon sealant on the screws to keep the water out.
There are externally threaded inserts also.
This is also why you hire an OCD inspector/
appraiser to work for YOU. They can catch a lotta stuff. Going by the appraisal from the Seller or their Realtor is asking for trouble.
What about also using pieces of self-sealing rubber (or silicone) tape under the the glass anchor tabs? I’m talking about the stuff electricians use to seal outdoor fittings. Then when the screw is driven through, the tape will seal it.
Thats fine and dandy, but the real problem could be from wicking, capillary action. Question is, will the thinset suck up enough water to make it to where the screw holes are? I think putting silicone down the screw hole would work good. But wish there was an easier way to secure the door without drilling through the water proofing membrane.
Communication is sooooo bad now days that I’m terrified what homes will be like in the future
Schluter introduced in 2010 so it's too early to be the end-all-be-all until someone does a video having to come back and dissect/remodel a properly done Schluter system vs a properly done topical membrane vs a mix of the two in a controlled similar environment.
My glass guy uses no brackets. High strength structural silicone only. Two steps: 1. Puts a bead down and shims it level about 1/8 gap between glass and curb, so the silicone doesn’t get squeezed out. 2. Next day removes the shims and silicones the gap left from removing the shim. No holes, no leaks, no brackets to clean around. Only good.
for shower glass on the top of curb, we prefer to use Schluter DECO-SG
Perfect example of why you don’t mess around in a shower. Pay to do it right the first time, or pay to do it again.
I have no interest in doing bathroom remodels. But these videos are extremely interesting.
Why cant you use a U channel to cover the edges of the glass so you can reuse it? It only looked 1/4 off level the channels cover that
So if sheet membranes go over motarbeds that’s okay?? But for the same motarbed u say redguard is not good?? Thanks.
It’s not about the type of waterproofing over the mortar, it’s about the overall system being used. In a sealed system using a bonding flange drain and no pvc liner you would waterproof everything right up to the drain flange. When you don’t want to waterproof a mortar pan is when you’re using an old school pvc liner system with a pre slope and clamping ring drain. That system must be able to allow water into the mortar bed. Hope that helps!
I don't install glass doors or panels, but I understand sometimes it's hard or near impossible for them to install big heavy glass without anchoring the brackets to the curb. What I've seen them do is glue the brackets with some sort of crazy strong epoxy or something similar. If they absolutely have to drill, they fill the holes with that epoxy and screw the brackets while It's still wet.
Good Ol power grab cookies; last builder got me with it. Ruined a whole wall
You don't have to make the wall plum, just flat and you could have reused the glass. What a shame.
I would have figured the glass would be straight but they made it fit the out of straight wall, like a gap on the edge,
Love the classic Estwing.
In my opinion screw holes are rarely if ever an issue, all is needed to squeeze some sealant into drilled hole and use stainless screws, also generous squeeze of sealant under glass holder bracket as wont hurt. Those simple protective treatments cost nothing for glass installers, but they never do that, as they don't care of longevity of your shower. Their task to install glass and not scratch or break tile work and get out immediately to new job.
I always put Sikaflex sealant between the 2x4 wood curb and the waterproof membrane - that way I don't worry that it will fail
Thanks for your great videos. Ive checked a bunch of your videos. Im building a new shower in a basement and Im trying to find out where you explain the build of the base.
Ive seen where drywall, and cement board are set Dehind the pan etc where you have shown the problems. Its where the wall and the base or pan come together im trying to plan.
Thanks again
red guard, Starr tile cough cough. I got out of tile and got into glass. There are several designs that avoid horizontal penetrations, it's not something we like doing. but for a frameless door there isn't much choice. I sink them all the way, but I make sure to clean out the hole as good as possible and add sealant. The hole is completely covered by the glass and silicone and even if that were the fail the plug fits really tight and heats up a little when you drive the screw so sorta acts as a seal also.
My shower door guy does not put screws Ann any horizontal surfaces. When he drills holes in the wall he uses caulking in the hole, then puts the anchor, then caulks again, then screws, then caulks over top and puts the cover on
In my defense, as a glass shower installer we do add silicone to any of the holes in the bottom so water doesn't go in
I'm a homeowner and when I built my house, I did all the tile work. My shower is a mud base with a pre slope and PVC liner and then a mud pan. I did use treated 2x4's for the curb, but they are wrapped with PVC and no nails with a mud layer over them around 1/2" thick. The walls are durock and I coated them with Aqua Defense. I did end up with some lippage, but nothing like what you're showing here. After seven years, there is no sign of leakage, The ceiling below is in a storeroom so not finished. I'd know if it leaked.
I think one of the best ways to avoid issues with curb damage is using granite on the top of the curb because it eliminates any chance of water absorbing into the tile or grout and just silicone your holes and whatever you need to fasten. I think it's enough to last 20-30 years. But even then, if you're a home owner that understands proper maintenance, youll be re-caulking things in 5-10 years.
I don't see a big issue with drilling through the curb, but that's only if you're using a granite top. If it's tile i would not be as confident.
Doesnt make sense to me granit or tile no hole thats it
Tile Coach gave me the confidence to renovate my own shower. Thank you! I even trimmed the screws on my glass enclosure to avoid penetrating my curb waterproofing.
I'm a tile guy and trim carpenter. You shouldn't have been obsessed with having perfectly plumb walls. You could have reframed the walls out of plumb to reuse the glass. It wouldn't have been noticeble. I've never done this intentionally with tile because I never had to reuse a glass enclosure. But with trim, I often install a door slightly out of plumb and/or rip my casing because the adjacent wall is out of plumb, and it would look like I made a mistake it I installed everything plumb and the reveals were uneven. Goal is to get the best look and a door that works as it's supposed to. If you have lemons, make lemonade.
20+ years of setting tile in the Bay Area. Can't even count how many times a real estate agent that's driving by sees me making a cut on the front lawn of customer's house and pulls over to ask me if I do side jobs. It's unequivocal "no". Because they are looking for a cheap price and I don't think it's right to take a side job while I'm actively representing a licensed contractor on the job I'm at. Besides, I only do side jobs for family or close friends.
Poke a hole their goes the waterproof. There are many shower door companies in rocky mountain west that don't penetrate to anchor. I have worked for only a few house flippers, the reason being is I won't drop my price to get anyone's work. Cost what it cost. What finish people do is art. I am about to retire, I figured out a long time ago I don't want to be known as the cheapest guy they could find. I am known as the company that keeps the client informed from start to finish and who's price was well worth the cost. By the way good Mr. Ostrom.
HOLY HELL! I'm showering outside for the rest of my life.
In what world does it make sense to cut the glass out of square? Are you sure it's not square?
Curious
Bro the glass guy doesn't make the walls square. He cuts the glass to fit the shower whatever shape it is. This shower was out of square so the glass was too.
flip house is going to use a cheap $1500 kit glass enclosure, not something custom cut. It's 'ea$ier' to just tear it out and install a new kit that you sell to the homeowner for $3k - 4k; man's got to make a living and a flip home buyer wont know the difference.
I was gunna say this. That glass is 100% not cut out of square for that fucked up wall.
Silicone in the screw holes before the screws go in plus caulking between the sill and the shower glass plus a slight inward slope on the sill should give you three lines of defense against water getting past a screw. My feeling is that the screw holes are not the issue here.
Turns out it wasn’t the shower at all it was a leaky pipe 😂
Considering the tile industry itself has so many failing products, maybe the window flashing was an attempt to find something that actually works.
This is the exact reason why I will not purchase a flip. These flip homes have a alot of eye candy, but all they did was throw lipstick on a pig. Sad, sad, sad. 😔
I silicone my holes before putting anchors in. I also put silicone under the brackets
I seen so many people do this!!! They would do the pan liner then pour the bedding then red guard over it LOL. There’s a guy on CZcams that is notorious for that.
"Homeowner wants to see where the leak is". Pick any spot - you've got it! What's the difference, anyway, in this case? Buying a house is a very rough thing. Are there inspection companies that can detect problems like this before buying?
Cut the Sheetrock ceiling out and your have your answer.
Lately been using only loctite crystal clear power grab for the base of the glass, stuff is super strong... Can't trust any hole even filled with silicone eventually water wins
Actually that looks like something someone did themselves. I fixed the drywall and tile in a bathroom my buddy's wife did herself. I almost turned the job down after I looked at it. The person that sold them their tile told them they could put down right over the plywood. No durarock, no Hardiebak, no schluter system, no nothing. It was interesting to say they least.
I have a fantastic idea. Everytime tile coach puts out a shower failure video every tile contractor on this page should agree to raise their prices. These assholes that install these abominations got to make money off it even though it has to be ripped out and redone. Why don't we deserve more for one that lasts?
What do you think about putting hydroban liquid Over a pitched dry pack mud job b4 tiling? I know it's water in n out system but many times I worry the plumber covered all the weep holes wt silicone products.Many plumbers in my area OR contractors are tryin to save money by mudding the pan themselves. You think putting hydroban liquid on top of dry pack is pointless right?.?
If anyone other than myself muds the pan My guarantee is Eliminated
How far out of plumb are the walls? For 3 grand I think I could live with the wall out of plumb a little. The bubble in the 4' level was still between the lines so I doubt it was a noticeable eye catcher. I would have consulted the owner on the cost to make the walls exactly plumb and have to buy a complete new glass inclosure or if it was that big of a deal, in fact I bet no one even noticed. How much extra work and cost will it be to make the walls plumb and purchase new glass?
Can't profit on a new enclosure if you go that route.
@@justinkarns7721 I really doubt that's the reason.
@@vanman3752 a reason
@@justinkarns7721 Who knows? I'd rather wait and hear it from the horse mouth, OK? There might be a very good reason that I'm not aware of.
That’s what I was thinking too.
What pisses me off most is that to do what they did, it still took quite a bit of time and effort. Like, just put in 20% more of what you've already put into it, and do it properly. All of that effort and work for nothing....only to have to be redone.
Looks like one of Starr Tile's jobs...lol
That work is pathetic! I feel bad for the homeowner. What a nightmare.
I am not hating on anyone, but this is the reason why I dislike cheap "contractors" STOP CALLING YOURSELF A CONTRACTOR. There is a reason why must homeowners are "getting a great deal$$$" cheap labor+cheap materials+doing everything the wrong way= "GREAT DEAL"
That homeowner is going to have to pay couple of thousands to get that bathroom done the right way.
I am glad this man is exposing everything that was done wrong in that bathroom.
Homeowners, renovations is not what they show you on HGTV and if you want your renovation, which is an investment in your property, get a real professional and be ready to pay for that expertise and quality of materials and work.
I am sick and tired of hearing the homeowners saying, WoW that estimate is so expensive, I can do it myself or get Juan do it for cheaper 🤬
Aqua defense is meant to be rolled or brushed to thick and it cracks while it dries
My shower glass guy only uses silicone to hold walls in place. No screws . The walls have to run floor to ceiling though.
Hi Isaac, I’m looking to do a traditional pan with liner and threepiece drain. Do you have any videos that run through the steps? I’m a carpenter by trade but I find myself stuck in your videos more than often!! Lol
I worked for awhile installing shower doors. Those holes should have been silicone and then after you install the glass clamp you silicone the the screw head and the remainder. Anyone that knows how to do this properly wouldn't make any mess either. Just a cobbed shower door install. You can also do channel and you use construction grade double sided 3m tape for the bottoms. People dont like that look. When I would measure for a shower I would always push for channel on bottom clamps on side if they didn't want channel all around. Channel is the way to go. Obviously screw your sides in the the walls but you always silicone everything after. Channel to tile channel to glass.
All those home flip shows make me laugh I would not want to be a person who actually buys one of those houses many times when you watch the camera show the "after" if you really study you can see a whole bunch of horrible finish work. Like you said it's all about making money as fast as you can and moving onto the next while the victims have to live with all the mistakes and pay even more to fix them.
Hey Isaac I'm out here in socal and would really like to learn pool tiling techniques if you know any. Alot of work presents it self out here in the Coachella Valley and I want to do it to your standards
Who ever buys a house and knows it’s a flip most often deserves the mess they bought!
If you buy the house you can pretty much remodel it w/o a contractors licenses and hv at it!
Then it’s a matter of looking for a sucker to buy it????
Before you buy a house hire someone like me to go thru it! Most inspectors do not even ask about who did the remodel?
What a mess!! And the sellers knew they had no idea what they were doing !
But did it anyway!!!
Never, never ever, never buy a flip house!!!!!
That's not aqua defense, that dries dark forest green
The glass guys should be using anchors and prior to installing the anchor they should be putting a sealant in the holes or cutting the screws shorter
Hey, been watching your channel for a while now.
What do you recommend for the Shower panels, if not drilling into the curb/floor?
I wouldn't trust just silicone to hold the panels for 10+ years.
I install shower Enclosures, and always drill into the tile/curb, adding silicone around/ in the anchor hole.
No problems yet for me, but I can see it being a problem, if it is not properly sealed.
Any other recommendations?
When are we gonna see your fallow up videos on your kerdi system failing? Did you ever get A response on the situation?
Can you not cut about 1/2 or inch off the glass and re square the glass panels so you can reuse them? It would just shrink the shower areas just a bit.???
Im guessing that rimless glass was tempered and cut square from the factory. Doubt it was out of square at all
I also just moved into a new house and they had to gut the entire shower because someone slit the shower pan. When they took apart the tile, I noticed everything was “cookied” like you mention in the video. One glob on each tile but not properly spread. The tile guy I hired said it was dangerous because moisture can get behind that and eventually cause tile to fall. Would you agree? I have two other showers that they did where I presume it was the same method and I don’t want them to be unsafe.
Looks like the real estate agent was the tiling guy 😆 I hope this guy got a good lawyer...
Y'all not have shower trays in the US? Makes life a lot easier.
I'll never buy a remodeled house always have issues people cut corners to make a quick buck and the one who buys gets screwed always!
Why 95% of coverage re cuired on the external side of the curb? Not so much water wold go there and what is the issue of having a bit of air in that are?
is the outside of the curb considered wet area?