Alaskan Chainsaw Mill - before you buy, see if it's for you, based on what you want it to do.
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- čas přidán 8. 03. 2021
- If you are wanting to get started sawmilling without spending a fortune, this is for you.
If you have a portable sawmill, but have oversize logs - this is for you.
If you need to cut lumber in a remote location - this is for you.
This is for you as you select an appropriate powerhead, bar, chain and decide on a ‘winch or no-winch’ option.
• Granberg Mills granberg.com/history-future-c...
• Norwood Canada: www.norwoodsawmills.com/en_ca/
• Norwood: www.norwoodsawmills.com/
• Woodmizer Canada: woodmizer.ca/en/
• Woodmizer: woodmizer.com/
• Milwaukee Tool: www.milwaukeetool.com/
• Snap-on Tools: www.snapon.com/
• Stihl Canada: en.stihl.ca/
• Stihl: www.stihl.com/default.aspx - Jak na to + styl
This chainsaw worked well to cut up a pile of cedar logs czcams.com/users/postUgkxfQm1wmg0ItKDLavxj1nXtQY9HP7EF504 and stumps. I used it to cut 12"-16" diameter logs and a handful of odd-shaped stumps that were larger in diameter. There was more than enough power even when using 2x100' extension cords. Be sure to use the right gauge extension cord, since you should be using a slightly higher gauge cord than the standard extension cord most folks have around the house. My 2 favorite features of this saw over previous ones I've used are the built-in sharpener and the quick stop after the the throttle is released compared to a gas-powered chainsaw. As soon as you release the trigger, the chain stops spinning immediately because of the electric motor. Standard feature of most of these electric chainsaws, but worth mentioning here for anyone not familiar with it.Bottom line...I needed a chainsaw to get through some backyard cleanup of logs and tree stumps. For the price of renting a chainsaw for a few days, I got this Oregon chainsaw that got the work done, and now I own it for future use.
Thanks for tuning in and being part of my journey!
Howard, you are definitely The Mr Rogers of sawing. Love it.
Thanks for tuning in and being part of the journey. More fun to come!
Ripping chains are less aggressive cuts than cross-cut. Kickback can occur with a standard chain. To clarify what makes a low kickback a depth gauge is added. The safety or low kickback chain introduces an additional depth gauge on the link that has no cutter attached. This keeps the consistent depth of cut consistent as it goes around the tip of the bar. Kickback can occur when felling trees and branches where you used the tip of the chain for plunge cuts. When milling you do not cut with the tip of the bar, and you are not plunging in. Lawyer speak and context I feel should be added. The cuts are less aggressive and some rip chains alternate angles for cut and clear, which many millers use for less powered saws or long bars.
I mostly mill but have in some instances fallen large trees for some free logs but not very often as not trying to take business away from those who make their livings as I am just as happy to get the logs from tree trimming companies. I use a cross-cutting chain for that, but just cutting leftover firewood might not change the chain. Works fine just slower. Less aggressive.
There are a number of things stressed on what makes a ripping chain and each has its purpose of the specifics in relation to what tools (size of saw and bar, hardwood, softwood, dry or wet wood etc) you are using and what the task is doing.
Really appreciate you tuning in and adding detail and perspective. Huge thanks!
good info i just bought the same brand Chane sawmill and I've got a 84-inch bar because I have 2 7.5 oak logs to mill with an 881 magnum
Oh wow! You've got a beast of a saw! That is amazing. Good on you!
Thanks for tuning in . . .
Thanks, keep up the videos please, I'm getting me a Alaskan chainsaw mill very soon.
Ohhhhh - you gotta keep me posted on that. Thanks for being part of my journey, and here's wishing you all the best. You won't regret a bona fide Alaskan Chainsaw mill!
My 661cm is my do everything saw. The starting story of your 661 got a good chuckle out of me 😂
Thanks for being part of my journey.
Super helpful, thanks! I’m just looking at getting into chainsaw milling, your comment about burning out the clutch probably saved my MS290 from tragic damage! 👍😁
Thank you for your kind words. Do keep me posted on where you end up. Here’s to paying it forward. Another CZcamsr helped me from burning up a clutch on a saw that was too small for the job. Happy cutting.
You have such a pleasent personality.
Thank you for tuning in and contributing to the richness of my journey!
You can fix those 2 granberg chains that are spalled with your raker file. Hold the chain in your hand and file the spalling down till it runs freely in the bar groove. I've done it many times when saw has thrown the chain off. If you turn the end bracket that holds the depth Guage bar at the helper handle end so the bar is on the outside you will gain a little more room to cut bigger diameter logs. There are 2 ripping chain angles so you know and the 15 degree seems be have been lost information. The 15 degree chain is a faster cut but leaves a rougher surface similar to old rough cut lumber milled on circular sawmills. I only recommend 15 degree chain if your milling lumber and don't care if it's rough. I have a 30" mill and run an echo 800p with a 36" bar and currently running semi chisel full skip chain that I regrind into milling chain.
Great tip - and you're right - when the saw does throw a chain, that would be the cure!
And I was not aware of the 15 degree cut advice. There are times when I do want that 'vintage rough lumber' look. When I was a kid, my dad was head of maintenance for a sawmill which ran two large circular saws, and I remember that look well.
Thanks for tuning in!
Very in-depth. Nothing like years to pass on knowledge. 👍
I appreciate that! Has to be some value that come with age. haha
@@howardkettner I like the fact you were tack on..”Brevity is the soul of Wit!”
Greetings from Le Sueur, MN
FANTASTIC video! Really enjoyed it. You’ve a great personality!
Huge thanks for tuning in and being part of my journey!
Really interesting and full of valuable info for a newbie. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for being part of the journey. Check out the comment from Powersaw Tomfoolery and his channel. He's got some solid content.
I started using an 880 for cuts over 30". A 660/661 will do it but the 880 does it better. I've also found a full skip chisel chain sharpened to nearly 90 degrees in relation to the bar cuts very well but leaves a much smoother finish as well as a smoother feed while cutting.
Thanks for the tip! Much appreciated. I'd love to get a smoother finish cut - and a smoother feed.
You clearly have a ton more experience than I have at this and I really appreciate your taking the time to share..
I just tuned in and subscribed to your channel. Will watch some of the videos this evening!
Hey really cool and informative video! Thanks a lot. Have fun 👍
Glad you enjoyed it! Thank you for being part of my journey!
Beautiful video big mill system
Big thanks for tuning in. Love that Alaska Chainsaw.
Holy tool boxes!
Thanks for tuning in . . .!
thanks for sharing
Thanks for tuning in and watching!
You should step up to a cannon chainsaw bar - they flex a lot less! Every time the bar flexes you lose power. I run a 090AV - bit older saw but nothing stops it. Don’t understand why you use the ladder when you already have a flat surface
I will definitely look into that (Cannon chainsaw bar). Did not actually know that it existed. Huge thanks.
And - you've identified the reason that I use the ladder for every cut. Because of the flex, the cut is slightly uneven. Hardly noticeable on the first cut, but if do not use the ladder for subsequent cuts, the uneven-ness gets exaggerated with each subsequent cut, until the pieces become unacceptable for table-top use. The ladder ensures a close to perfect cut everytime and chainsaw bar shortcomings are close to a non-issue as far as cut quality.
Thanks for tuning in - and contributing!
My chain done the same thing but it came off and hit the safety catch on the bottom of the chainsaw take a small rotary tool lightly grind them down the chain will fit right back on it
Great tip - thanks for being part of my journey of learning! Happy sawing!
Nice work ! Do you have a video on that table build ? I've got some huge ash slabs that I would like to make into a similar style. Thank you and greetings from Maine !
Thank you for tuning in. Wow! I think I'm the luckiest guy in the world. Making new friends and acquaintances far and near.
I did not record that build, but definitely should have. Will be building out another soon and will document.
I'd die to have some large ash slabs. Those would be great to work with. Jealous!
Couple things for sure. Stickers, lots of stickers a plenty of gas and oil. Love my chainsaw mill.
I like the Oregon better. 660 42 inches
Right on. Lots of stickers. Good point. Thanks for being part of my journey.
I don't worry about chainsaw roughness. due to me having a linear rail slab flattening rig. makes quick work out of planning large slabs
Oh wow! You are definitely living my dream with that slab flattening machine. I'm probably a year or two out from something like that.
Thanks for tuning in and and being part of the conversation!
@@howardkettner czcams.com/video/avrLQIiMrsU/video.html
@@howardkettner about $400 invested into it
@@howardkettner I already had the 4x8 lexan topped work table built
@@superiorvideoandphotograph375 Wow! That is awesome!
I don't use a guy after I make my first initial cut I'll let the sawmill glide on top of the wood it's basically a flat level surface after your first initial cut
It's probably just me, but I found that if I inadvertently put any pressure or or guidance on the handle while holding the fuel trigger there would be some very slight waves that were then exaggerated with each successive cut.
For tabletops or benches specifically, I continue to use the guide for a guaranteed flat surface.
Hi! Thank you very much for great and inspiring video. I have one question. What is that blue thing on these trees around? Its something what slows down drying proces? Thank you:)
Thanks for tuning in and being part of my journey!
It's important to seal the ends of the logs to prevent what is called "checking" - which is what happens because the ends of the log, unsealed, will dry faster than the middle. As they dry they split and one can easily lose 6 inches or more of the log in terms of useful wood.
Anchor Seal is one product that is recommended, but in the climate I have here, any old latex will do. I buy whatever is on sale at Home Depot in the spring and have them put some blue colouring in it and I paint away. If I still have previously unsealed logs, I give them another coat.
@@howardkettner Thanks for answer, Can I ask you one more question, would you recomend me a clasic latex for it? Iam from Czech Republic so my climate conditions are 500m above the sea level, 30 degrees Celsius summer and - 20 degrees Celsius winter. Or should I buy that much more expensive Anchor Seal? Thank you!
@@stepanmoska856 Your climate is nearly identical to mine. I just go with the cheapest latex I can buy, and so far so good - as long as I apply a coat annually.
Happy sawmilling! Thanks again for the conversation.
Good thing for sandpaper to make smoother
Huge thanks for being a big part of the 82Maple community neighbour!
Actually, I’m going to keep this one for myself. Really like the resultant texture/character.
Would love to look at it with you and talk about best finish/oils vs other finishes.
Drive cog is actually a rim sprocket. Good video tho 👍 You can file the burrs out of the drivers, it’s might just take a while.
Thanks for the info. Yeah - that was my bad - and huge thanks for the correction on the terminology. I'm a newbie. How can you tell. haha.
But - I'm hooked!
I had the same problem with my 3120xp husqvarna, but I was running .404 with 3/8 drive. It broke my drive into peices. I wish I saw this video while I was diagnosing that problem
Ouch - oh man! So sorry to hear that. replacing the drive is not cheap.
May there be much happy sawing in your future. Sounds like you're up and running tho?
you can easily repair your damaged chain with a Dremel tool and grinder head. Takes a little time but saves expensive chain replacement
Thank you so much for tuning in - and what a great suggestion. I've got both - and it sounds like a terrific little evening project.
Howard, random question for you. I came for the chainsaw mill info which was great but what brand is the coat you are wearing in the beginning of the video? I’m looking for one and haven’t found one I like yet, that one looks nice. Thanks!
As per the most video I just posted this morning, this channel is all about random - so totally welcome the question. @czcams.com/video/SVggsBal7Lk/video.html
It's a Tough Duck. It's here on Amazon Canada. This is the one I was wearing - although it 's now 5 years or older so the collar trim is a little different.
I also have the one with a hood. Those jackets are bulletproof, highly rain resistant and wind proof. I've worked in heavy downpour for hours without getting wet.
@www.amazon.ca/Tough-Duck-213716-BRN-Medium-Jacket-Medium/dp/B000Y11CKM/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3TLMLF2PSMGTQ&keywords=tough%2Bduck&qid=1670093095&sprefix=Tough%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-2&th=1
PS - did a quick search but could not find the identical jacket on Amazon.com.
Hope this helps.
Thank you, sir! I’ll see what I can find. All the best to you and I look forward to continuing to follow along.
Why the ladder.? I usually see that for the first cut but once you have a flat surface cant you just lay the mill on that? Just trying to learn as we are just getting started in this.
Great question!
Initially, I did not use the ladder on the second and subsequent cuts, but what I found is that any imperfection on my part on the second cut - either as the result of operator skills, or some less than perfect first cut, just became more and more magnified in the 2nd, 3rd, 4th cut and so on. The ladder prevents that. Particularly important if the cuts are going to be used for tabletops or shelving vs general construction.
Hope this helps.
This makes perfect sense and that is what I was assuming was the reasoning. Thanks for clarifying and for your content. It is extremely useful as we are venturing into this.
It also makes starting and finishing cuts easier and keeps the ends flat.
Does that Alaska mill come with the oiler and the winch or do u have to buy those separately?
Hey! Terry - thanks for tuning in.
Those were options. Had to do little tweaks to both to make them serviceable in the long term, but hey, perfect is the enemy of good, so all worth it.
Gotta have that additional oiler if you're running a bar longer than 30" IMO.
And the winch keeps the bar running straight. You might not realize it, but if you're even running the chainsaw with one hand one will inadvertently cause it to rise or dive. The winch prevents that. Brilliant option IMO.
@@howardkettner I just bought the XP 3120 Husqvarna with a 3ft and 5ft Bar . I'm waiting on my Alaska mill to come in. I'm going to order the oiler and winch. Thanks for the heads up . 👍
@@terrymcguire8476 Nice choice - with over 8HP that should run that 5' bar quite nicely. The real wisdom tho IMO with that size of powerhead is that it has a clutch that won't go up in smoke running that long of a chain.
RMX or RSC chain is suitable for?
Huge thanks for tuning in. Sorry - I'm the wrong guy to ask. hahaha I'm just fumbling my way through this whole Alaska Chainsaw mill thing. Having a ton of fun - and surviving the experience based on the comments of others on this channel.
My first two chains, I purchased from Granberg direct, and they were a modified skip chain (meaning every third tooth was filed into a mini-raker). The next chain I bought was directly from Stihl, purportedly designed specifically for purposes of Alaska chainsaw application. Who knew there were so many options for chain - and for bars!
Which is the cheaper chain? Granberg or Oregon?
Thanks for tuning in. Great question. The only chains I bought from Granberg were the original two, and a lot has changed since then. I'm a big fan of buy local when I can and fortunately there is an awesome Oregon dealer a few minutes from me. The advice I get when I talk with their techs is worth a ton.
Howard watched your video. I am confused!! Did a dealer install a 404 chain on your saw set up with a 3/8 rim sprocket??? If so they definitely owe you for whatever damage was done. That's on them not on you!! If you made that error that's a different story. As far as your sharpening angles goes you seem somewhat confused. There are several angles that you need to be concerned with so before you do anything to a new chain make sure you understand completely what you're doing otherwise you will ruin that chain as well!!
Yeah - a rookie at the dealer made an error - and they made it right. Thanks for tuning in and being part of the conversation. Three years later I think I'm finally figuring out this chainsaw chain sharpening 'thing'. haha
just buy Cannon Super bar witch match your drive wheel, and from my experience use ordinary chain, not a rip chain. and delete each second teeth on the chain.
Huge thanks for the tip. Makes sense. Looking forward to trying that!
Thank you for tuning in!
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if I could make 1 suggestion, I haven't watched all the way through. I'm currently at 9:53 where you're talking about the rim sprocket. anyways, its pretty tight in there. if there was any way to run a 8 tooth sprocket instead of that 7 tooth, your 661 will love you for it. stihl part # 0000 642 1217
I’d also be curious to know what youd think of the Stihl ripping chain. If you ever come across it.
Awesome observation - and huge thanks for the specifics on what I should be asking for. I will definitely do that. Again, thank you Dawson?!
@@TheKrollToll Love it. Running one now. Got it to replace the chain I got from Granberg that got wrecked because of the sprocket mismatch. It performs really well Have only done 3 x 12' cuts with it (in 36" wide cuts). Not experienced enough to comment further - but love the cut speed and end result.
@@howardkettner yea no problem Howard , its a minor upgrade but will really help pull that long chain.
You will lose power but gain chainspeed going to a bigger drive sprocket, not something you want to do on a milling setup really.
just buy Cannon Superbar
I will definitely check that out. Thanks!
Hoky dyna Howard
I think we are brothers who have never met .
We have the same mill set up And the same Alaskan mill set up .
Go figure
Whoa - so good. And just too much fun brother!
@@howardkettner
So
Are you truly happy with the self drive and electronics on the mill ?
Can the mill still be run manually if there is a problem with those items?
@@pearsc5d The drive is easy enough - it's just a matter of 3 small bolts and then lifting the drive chain off the sprocket.
The saw head is a bit (a lot) more complicated. One could install the manual lift mechanism is one solution. The easier cheaper solution is to get a simple switch (I got mine through Norwood) and disconnect the control box and wire the switch in between the battery and the lift motor. 30 minutes max - and I'm slow at that sort of thing.
@@howardkettner
Are you happy with the performance of the way it drives the saw ?
Are you happy with the electronics .
I'm cutting white pine timbers for a timber frame builder.
This guy is real picky on how his logs are cut up
@@pearsc5d totally. The new electronics package is a dream come true.
If you’ve not already viewed it or otherwise mastered it, see my video on squaring up a cant.
It’s all about how you square it up with the blade using the hydraulic clamps to assist
Just spend the $2500 for a Real Mill, and get it done in Minutes, not Hours.......it's almost the same cost as buying a chainsaw Capable of cutting 40" tree anyways!! Might as well buy a Real Mill designed for it if you're going to use it regularly.
Except he can mill it wherever he wants.