Chainsaw Mill Edge Guide Comparison - Granberg vs. Timber Tuff
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- čas přidán 10. 06. 2024
- A while ago I bought the Timber Tuff Lumber Cutting Guide on a whim and since then I’ve used it to cut the rough sawn edges off literally tons of lumber. Recently, Granberg International (who I am partnered with) asked if I would be interesting in trying out their G555B Edging Mill, which used to be called the Mini-Mill. No strings attached, they truly just wanted my honest feedback on it compared to the Timber Tuff, and maybe some footage of it in action. Since I’ve been nothing but impressed with all of my previous Granberg products and I truly enjoy working with them, I decided to go a few steps further and make a full-length comparison video between the two while staying as unbiased as possible…and I think the results may surprise you, they certainly surprised me! Hope you enjoy the video and as always, feel free to reach out with any questions!
Thanks for watching,
Matt - Overkill Woodcraft LLC
(NOTE: While some of the tools and products shown in this video were sponsored or part of a paid partnership in the past, none of them were provided as incentive for creating this specific video.)
~ Amazon Affiliate Link to Chainsaw Milling Tools Used ~
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Chapters
0:00 - Intro
1:04 - Timber Tuff Assembly
4:50 - Attaching the Timber Tuff
9:32 - Using the Timber Tuff
13:10 - Granberg Assembly
14:19 - Attaching the Granberg
21:09 - Using the Granberg
22:12 - Conclusion
*For more woodworking tips, content, and tools I use:
Instagram: @overkillwoodcraft
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Amazon Affiliate link to general tools used:
www.amazon.com/shop/overkillw... - Jak na to + styl
Extremely helpful. Thank you.
Glad to hear it, thank you!
Glad to find someone that compared two of edge mills that I was looking at head to head. Thank you.
You're welcome, thanks for watching!
Great comparison video. I built my own guide using a combination of both guides. I liked the easy set up of the Granburg and the 2x6 ready feature of the Timbertuff. I screwed the 2x6 to my log, elevated on wooden sawhorses, and rotated the log so the saw was not completely vertical, but almost at a 45. This way, my bar and chain never get close to the ground. Then it was just a matter of pushing the saw down the plank to flatten the first edge. My bracket did not produce a 90 degree corner, however, but like you said, it's just rough framing lumber. The Timbertuff style guides leaves too much wiggle or wobble room for a 90 degree corner.
Thanks for watching it sir, and that's pretty cool how you made a combo-style guide...would be interested in seeing that! I agree about the Timber Tuff, seems like a perfect 90 or even close to it is impossible with the play it has.
Really good vid. I think any device that allows you to easily make many fast passes with a different angle on the sword is fundamentally the winner because the combination of chain and the wood material really requires you to choose your angle AFTER you're already into the cut, not before; and, to get cleaner results with less loss, the many pass option is really the right way to use side milling I think.
Thank you! Yeah it's definitely helpful for slightly underpowered saws too.
Thanks for the good review and Thank for your service
Absolutely, I appreciate that!
I bought a timber tuff edging mill and I find set up on a 2x4 it has more of a tendency to rock. To try and eliminate that I went to a 2x6, it ended up working a lot better. I also like the fact that it pivots
Are you securing the 2x to the log? Or do you mean the guide rocks after securing it? That dimensional lumber isn't something I trust, which is why I made my rail with the plywood. Fits perfectly snug and no rounded edges.
Great video. Thank you sir!
You're welcome sir, thanks for watching!
A couple advantages of the Timber Tuff:
1. You can mount it closer to the power head, leaving you with more useable bar, so you can cut larger diameter logs.
2. It allows you to pivot the chainsaw into/out of the cut, so you can choose to engage less of the bar at once. This lets you cut with a smaller powerhead. (This does mean that you're taking multiple passes to make the complete cut). You can also cut with the log closer to the ground.
3. Simpler set-up on the log.
Yup, pretty much all of which I covered in the video...
I have both the Timber Tough and the Grandberg 24" mill. The Timber Tough is great for getting the first flat cut done so I can get the Grandberg set up for true 2" planks. The TT is also good for post or beam cutting where precision isn't a big deal.
Agreed, I'm so used to using Granberg's first cut rails that I failed to mention you can use the TT for that as well.
It’s another piece of equipment, but a Hi-Lift would pretty easily allow you to get logs off the ground enough for the granberg if you prefer all the other features of it. I’ve had my granberg edging mill for almost year and will finally put it to use next week. Really like their Alaskan mills, but have not tried others for comparison.
Yeah I appreciate the recommendation, been looking into something like that but with a wider lip. It just seems like the round logs could teeter off it... Also thinking of some Harbor Freight motorcycle lifts when using the sawmill, could just slide them under after using my LogOx to temporarily lift the ends. I looked into other mills besides Granberg's, they all just seemed like inferior quality knockoffs and I've never had an issue with the real deal. Happy milling!
You can transfer punch, drill and tap the holes on the fixture to your bar and fasten it that way.
Yeah thanks, I mentioned that I've seen that done before. Now that I've got the indents on this new bar from the perfect placement I might give it a try.
Solid bar for the Granberg edging mill is a must add too. Either mill will dimple a laminated bar with how it pinches the bar.
Yeah I had a hard time finding one for my smaller saw that's compatible, but it seems like most of the pressure lands where the laminated sides meet because I haven't noticed dimples yet. I definitely get them from the TT, but that does zero harm.
i just purchased the whole kits that Granberg sells, comes with Alasken mill edging mill and an electric filler for around 900$ for the 36" setup. will come back when I have hours with it I own a tree service in cali and have clients that ask me to mill Redwood so thought I could have fun for less than a mill would charge.
Oh that's awesome, should make for a good investment too. Especially with the redwood. I just finished milling an 80 year old black cherry at a client's house, easily over $3K in wood. These mills definitely pay for themselves quick haha.
@@OverkillWoodcraft that cherry is probably really nice huh?
@bradbently Absolutely, some of the nicest wood I've worked with considering black cherry is real hard to come by around here.
@@OverkillWoodcraft that is awesome!
@@bradbently Thanks!
I ordered the timber tough but it hasn't come in yet.
What exactly happens if you tighten the set screws unevenly or too fast?
Watching your video, I thought of a solution for somebody who doesn't want to drill their bar:
1. Grind a point on the tip of the set screws. That will make indentations in the bar for the screws to register the same spot every time.
I will most likely be drilling my bar, and replacing the Allen head set screws with standard hex head bolts.
I'd assume vibrations would loosen them much quicker and that bar would pop out after a pass or two. I definitely don't want to find out, which is why I check the tightness between each cut. I usually don't have an issue after the first pass though, when it'll be just a tad loose.
I like the idea, they would have to be pretty short points though since I believe the set screws are hollow about halfway through. Could still be risky though if they aren't perfect points because they obviously wouldn't cover as much surface area as the flat ends.
I've thought about drilling the bar but the initial time involved with drilling and finding the right hardware (like 9 small lock nuts and bolts thin enough with enough shear strength) plus it still probably taking almost as long to set up each time doesn't seem worth it to me. It would definitely feel a little safer though.
@@OverkillWoodcraft Without seeing the unit closeup yet, I wonder if they used fine or coarse threads? Fine threads are designed to resist vibrating loose, while coarse threads are designed to resist being pulled straight out. If you've ever encountered a wedge-style doorstop that was cut at too low an angle, you know how tight that low angle can be wedged. Same for fine threads, which have a lower angle than coarse.
OK. I'll report back after mine comes in and I've had time to tinker with it.
Cut straight!
@bullfrogpondshop3179 I want to say their fine threads, not metric bolt fine, but definitely not drywall coarse lol. I think there's just so much vibration running down that bar that no matter what the threading is they're probably going to loosen up slightly over time. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts though, thanks!
@@OverkillWoodcraft SAE and metric threads both have a coarse and a fine version for each thread diameter.
I just looked on the Amazon page to see if I could find out what size threads the bolts are. Holy crap, it sounds like these bolts were threaded by a bunch of kids. People complaining of holes not being threaded, threads being boogered up, different size bolts then explained in the manual. A real cluster!
@bullfrogpondshop3179 I was kidding about the thread examples, but yeah those reviews make sense haha. I think mine had a little bit of paint in them but running the screws through took care of it easily enough.
Why not use a nail on a flat surface and put three little indentations on your bar for those bolts to snug into? Also why not mounted on the side so you can do a top cut?
I covered why I haven't bolted it to the bar, but mainly because I was trying to compare the products as is without modifying the intended design. Also, it seems like threading it would take just as long, but I suppose it'd be worth it for the added security. I have a first cut rail system for the mill I use to make that top cut. I'm sure it's doable using an edge mill...if the side of the log is perfectly straight, which is usually is not.
I had the timber tuff in my Amazon cart, and it's doubled in price in the last week or so.
Doubled from what? I'm showing it as only $33, it was $40 when I bought it...
Amazon Canada, was $35ish now it's $69.99@@OverkillWoodcraft
@@1quickdub That's insane, sorry. Try searching for a knockoff or different brand, I've seen so many that look identical.
Its a great quality, easy to use, post and beam maker. I have used both and there is no comparison - for any able bodied person - the timber tuff style is far superior in every way compared to the Granberg
It is a shame neither of them is as good as it would be to have them capable of just using a rail guide that is used in the horizontal chainsaw mills. It would be easy enough to make one. Needless to say, one of those mills is grossly overpriced and the other is lacking in a couple of areas. The Timber Tuff can be bolted directly to the chainsaw bar which requires drilling. Someone had done that on CZcams. Not a bad solution to the problem it has with its flimsy set screw set up. All that rail you had with the Granberg made the set up more complicated. Neither are a good choice for milling without modification. Nice video. I think I will get a Timber Tuff and see about modifying it to use on an aluminum rail system. Something to toy with. I will have a horizontal mill as well. The big advantage to vertical milling is not having to use wedges throughout the cut.
Yeah definitely pros and cons to each. I think Logosol makes a different version more along the lines of what you're referring to, their stuff is truly grossly overpriced though... I've seen the drilling with the Timber Tuff before and have considered it, just need to find bolts with good shear strength. I don't mind Granberg's rail system, long as it's not something I have to do every time...
I honestly wanted some long rectangle aluminum tube for the rail, would work perfectly for the Timber Tuff but that stuff ain't cheap! The plywood rail I made has held up surprisingly well though. Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching.
Granberg edge Mill is horrible.
Timber Tuff 2X6 be cutting guide is great.
I tossed my Granberg EdgeMill.
I do like Granbergs Alaskan Mill.
Definitely pros and cons to each in my opinion. I have some lighter poplar logs to mill up soon and I'm looking forward to using the Granberg Edge and Alaskan Mill.
100% - this is exactly what I found too. The timber tuff just works so well.
What's that super original sticker I've never seen on hundreds of 4x4 trucks before?
This one's actually different, if you stand behind my tailgate right as I'm backing up you'll see it says "GFY".
C est très bien cet appareil mais cette démonstration peut-elle être plus écourté si possible s.v.p merci de tout
What's the gun for? Is there wood robbers?
Yup, they're everywhere 😐 Along with bears, wild dogs, and the occasional lost future rehab participant. I've been glad I had it more than once...
The Granberg can be used up to a 36" bar length. Small logs are much easier to mill when placed on saw horses.
It can actually go up to 84", and I agree. Even some small logs are borderline impossible to get up that high by yourself though.
@@OverkillWoodcraft I was referring to the side slabber max bar length of 36". Only thing of Granberg that I don't have yet is there first cut system.
@@shawndmiles6747 Oh, got it. Yeah that would be a thick tree to need that much haha. Definitely recommend the first cut system, beats the heck out of a ladder or lumber!
Im at the wrong edging video.
I guess so?
The kid whos perfect thats arguing about kickback...lol. some people..i did tree work for 30 years.. kickback is 100% operator..just like a car accident.. let the expert make his video for f%$@s sake
Seriously, thank you! You should've seen some of the comments I had to delete...Never encountered so many flawless chainsaw operators until posting on social media lol.
Stainless Screws 100%
Yeah but if for whatever reason it kicks back you are screwed as it will kick to your body or head while when you are pulling with the timber tuff cheap one it will kick away from you . And I love my pretty face
I'm honestly confused on which one you're referring to, but neither would result in kickback like that if they're being properly operated.
@@OverkillWoodcraft Let me help you out the one you are recommending you are pushing the chainsaw to cut and the blade is aimed to your body . I myself am perfect and never had the chainsaw kick back but both my uncles who cut trees for a living since 16 years old until retirement for Spruce Falls had theirs kick back and have the cuts to prove it. You always want to plan ahead and for safety I think it is best to not have the path of the chainsaw bald to your body WHEN it kicks back !
@@rayboucher479 Sorry, it's hard to understand when people don't use periods. Also, I'm recommending both of them which is another reason why it was confusing. The Granberg is the one that gets pushed. It's got metal all around the bar that will stop that chain before it gets anywhere near a limb, and that's in extremely rare event kickback we're to happen. Since you're perfect then you know kickback is caused by the bar getting pinched, touching the danger zone of the nose, and other stuff that's usually prompted by operator error. Not saying it's not possible, but I believe the Granberg is very safe when used correctly (like all tools).
@@OverkillWoodcraft Let us see… With the timber tuff you are behind the saw and on the other side of the log when pulling to cut …. With the granburg you are pushing it on the blade side and on the same side of log as the blade…. I do not know about you but when things go bad it is best to have as many safety factors in your favour to not be injured….. This is not just a matter of doing a bad job but safety issue where you could be severely injured. Yes the timber tuff might be kind of junk but to me it is the much safer option.
@@rayboucher479 OK.
Why would anyone take advice from someone who buys junk, shit chainsaws. Moving on...
Well the Echo definitely isn't junk and the Proyama was free. Despite being a clone it's actually turned out to be a great saw. So yeah, please move on and maybe go pound sand or something...