Simucube 2 Sport vs. Pro - DRIVING TESTS - Which is Better Value?
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- čas přidán 31. 05. 2024
- Welcome to Part 3 of our Simucube 2 Review series. So far we've taken a detailed look at the hardware and internals of all three models, as well as comparing the Pro to the Ultimate.
Based on the spec sheets alone, we expect a more significant difference between these two than we saw between the Pro and Ultimate, so it's time to test the Sport up against the Pro to see which offers the better value!
Hardware Comparison:
• Simucube 2 Sport vs. P...
Simucube 2 Pro vs. Ultimate:
• Simucube 2 Pro vs. Ult...
Simucube Software and FFB Tuning Guide:
• HOW FORCE FEEDBACK WOR...
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#simucube2 #pro #sport - Věda a technologie
I would like to see “blind” test at say 15Nm, to eliminate placebo effects.
Totally. I find it interesting him commentating on the detail difference when both wheels can deliver ffb in 1ms. Just that the spike in the sport is 4nm instead of 8nm. That level of force is only really present in hitting large curbs or crashing into walls, than the rumble strips and road detail. Which makes me think placebo is at play.
I actually run my slew rate at 2nm/ms as having it on max feels very unnatural to me when hitting curbs.
@@SuperKimjong Interesting, I'd like to see this validated. I just ordered a Sport mainly because of the size and single PSU. I could still upgrade to the Pro.. but without many sources on the net that compare both it's a hard pick. I do see most people running their settings below the max levels the Sport can output, giving it some headroom.
I wouldn't be able to tell you the difference, even between Sport and Ultimate. The only thing I could tell is the difference in energy consumption, wich will be a huge factor due to sky rocketing energy prices.
@@MrMikap74 my sentiments exactly
Yeah because even coming back to it today seeing how much the wheel is bouncing I don't see it bouncing more on the pro lol if anything slightly less? Lol
Thanks for listening about comparing these two wheels before adding DD1 and DD2 into the mix. I know you can't answer everyone question but, you do listen! Once again great input and keep up the great work.
Will, what I admire most about your reviews is that you're able to drive and talk at the same time. Oh, and the content is spot on. I have trouble driving and breathing at the same time. Very valuable info.Thanks.
Thanks Carl. Apparently it’s abuse day today so it’s nice to read a positive comment.
Really like your series! And that new calera angle when you start driving is really cool!
Thanks! I've been thinking about using this angle for race videos.
Finally! The review everyone wanted to see, and no one was doing, to clarify the diference between them on the "driving feel" that what is all about. Thank you very much for the honest review.
You’re welcome.
Awesome video as per usual mate, looking forward to the next ones in the series
thanks for the continued and much helpful content boosted 👍🙏
Mate. Thank you for that explanation of dynamic range that was awesome. Really worked for my simple brain to understand.
Fantastic video, thanks Will. I'm glad I got the Pro rather than the Sport!
With regard to the dynamic range, my understanding is that the Sport is not going to be any different in the force you feel as compared to the Pro (slew rate aside) unless you run the Pro at a Wheel Force / True Dive strength higher than the Sport can handle (i.e. 17nm). I.e. if you like the feel of Wheel Force at 12nm then the Sport should feel exactly the same range at exactly the same forces as the Pro at 12nm (in terms of strength not responsiveness) and neither would experience any clipping if you have the Strength / Max Force in iRacing set appropriately for the car.
If you want to feel forces >17nm then you need to go for the Pro, but I don't think many actually do. If the car outputs 25nm of force data, you can feel that at full force on the Pro if you set Wheel Force to 25nm. That 25nm of output will be felt on the Sport at 17nm if you set it to 100%, all the forces get proportionately scaled down like you showed on your charts.
That's correct. If you run them both at a maximum allowed force of 17NM in TrueDrive, you're effectively capping the dynamic range of the Pro to 17NM. For my normal driving in most cars, I have my maximum force set to between 12 and 14NM even with my Ultimate because any more than that and it makes me slower. But for people stronger than me it may be desirable to have more dynamic range than that.
Awesome review Will. You've made my final DD decision much easier. Now if I can only find one that's available....lol!
sim racing bay i think in stock now ....but be fast to order will not last long
Great video Will. Had my sport for a week and now I'm already thinking I should upgrade to the pro haha
Dang it, I'll have to save up some money to get the SC2 Pro then :D In all seriousness though, just wanted to say thank you for your reviews, I feel like you're such a good source for all the information a new sim racer like me would need to see through the jungle of sim racing hardware and manufacturers, so thank you!
Thanks for the great content Will, real quality. I’ve been watching the direct drive comparisons and wondered if you’re considering testing a Mige DD wheel base ?
I’ll be testing the VRS system soon but otherwise probably not.
Will, great explanation. I was completely sold on the Pro for my first sim rig until Micro Center had the Sport + X-29 for US $999.99. Had to pass up that value for quality for a first rig. We will see when I get the rig completed.
Thanks for this very informativ series about Simucube, although I‘m a happy owner of the DD2 I really appreciate the very good quality of the
Simucube products. As far as I can say is, after trying the Simucube Pro of a friend that they are, at least at the moment, a little step ahead of the DD2.
Not quality wise but mainly from the software point of view. But, let’s wait and see how the Fanatec software will improve.
Anyway, I‘m curious to which conclusion you will come when comparing the Pro to the DD2.
Have a nice weekend!
Regards
John
I have just got the simucube 2 pro v2 and there is what i can only describe as electrical noise coming from the shaft part of the wheel base is this normal? Cheers🙂
Nice review Boosted 👍👌
Just a technical observation on your valuable explanation about Dynamic range. Being Nm It is not force but torque instead 👍🏻
hi! i'm torn between the simucube 2pro and fanatec dd1. honest opinion and can settings be change while in game on the simucube, like in fanatec. Thanks!
Hi
Can you recommend some settings for the simucube 2 sport in iracing? Thanks
Thanks Will and Boosted media for your review.
My two cents... So, if you feel like hulk (or not) and want to try some real car forces (let’s say like 10% or less cars from all iracing lineup that will clip on the Sport version) as well as a tiny bit of extra detail at the expense of one more power supply and 200 euros go for the Pro version.
Some people arguments are, the Pro it’s just 200 more so it’ll be smarter to just spend more to have that headroom but don’t buy what you really need. If you have money to spare just buy the Pro and don’t worry you will probably change the base when it comes out something new but 5% better that what you have...
If you own a Logitech, Thrustmaster or Fanatec base (Not DD) and and you’re looking to upgrade to a simucube but you can’t imagine how could it be to run a 1 hour race at double the forces, or even more, want to save 200 euros (plus taxes), don’t want to use two power supplies, go for the Sport...
200 euros may seem like a little but you could put that money into something else like a shifter, bass shakers, save for a steering wheel... I don’t know... lots of things...
I also read a comment where some one said about running high forces (higher than you can actually handle) will run in to lowering your lap time and to me it make sense so another argument would it be, if you want to be as competitive as you can you will definitely want the forces where you know you can comfortably handle the wheel, so take that into consideration.
At the end I think there’s no wrong choice, any base would be great so don’t worry about the idea that there’s something else out the better than you have and enjoy your buy, unless you’re the type of person who wants the best possible, then you should buy the ultimate (take a look at the other boosted media video)
Me personally, considering what I just said, I’m waiting for my SC sport, hoping it arrives in the next few days... I’m really excited about it...
At the end and Just as an experiment, it will be helpful doing some blind tests (other people who haven’t tried the bases) just to see if perception changes, maybe at this hardware point everything is about perceptions/preference.... if this is subjective maybe it will facilitate other people’s decision and everyone would be happier., if not WE ARE IN TROUBLE LOL
The Sport is awesome, if setup correctly it does not clip and is more than most need, the Beta testers raved about it and said it was much more than needed, these are guys that have been in sim racing for years like some of us old guys, enjoy your Sport, great bit of gear
I find more force actually results in better lap times for me with the VRS DD wheel. I would not want to run an entire race at 20Nm but for both my small son and I when we run laps at 20Nm immediately after running laps at our typical much lower force settings, we immediately start running green sectors and get better lap times. That threshold for me seems to be around 15Nm and it might be lower for my son but what we think this relates to is at lower strength settings we can easily over turn the steering wheel in corners and have noticed it is something we both do. But with stronger forces it is much harder to over turn the wheel so we drive better. Still I would not actually race at those force levels so it does not matter. Since getting the VRS I have found depending on the car I enjoy between 8-12Nm of strength. That said I also like having that headroom for no clipping, so I run my wheel at 100% and a set the strength in game to what I enjoy.
Serious question, what are you running for Slew on the three different wheel bases? On the pro I'm having to turn it down to 1.5, running max slew does weird things in certain situations and imparts steering input into the wheel I find very unrealistic. Other fast guys I've talked to also run 1.5 ish slew for various reasons. And if the wheels aren't measured at identical slew settings.... Then.... You know ... I have a feeling the differences between the wheels will start to disappear running low slew rates due to the above
I finally got the opportunity to try my trusty Sport side by side with a R2 Pro yesterday, identical firmware revisions, True Drive and both running the same profile from Daniel Morad. I was quite surprised how easily I could feel things like kerbs and road edges, the parts of the track with high frequency changes. I didn't expect to be able to notice the faster response of the Pro but its there and the sawtooth kerbs are one of the give-aways. The wheel change of direction is more rapid, certainly in a V8 Supercar but much more noticeable in the F3. I'm so impressed with my Sport but the Pro does offer a noticeable upgrade.
Hi Will, love your channel. Thinking of picking up a pro but confused by wheel compatibility -- I see you're using an OMP in the video, is there a list somewhere of compatible wheels?
Nice video Will! Do you have a link to the reference about the relation between slip angle, and centering force? Thank you very much!
I noticed you forgot to set the Inertia to 5%. I would not know what difference this would make if any. But just thought I would mention it. Didn’t make a difference to my decision to buy the Sport. Really looking forward to it’s arrival.
hey mate. understand this is an old video, but hope you’ll still get this notification. i’m currently looking at upgrading from my g27, and think my current choice is going to be the simagic alpha mini. in regards to the dynamic range, do you think the extra money will be worth it enough to justify an extra $700 nzd for a 20nm mige base instead? they both come with a d wheel, and i’d like a gt wheel too but obviously that is just more cost. it’s 2000 for the simagic package and 2700 for the 20nm mige, which has a wheel but probably not as high quality as the simagic wheel. i’m trying to spend as little as possible but if the 20nm would be worth it then i might just send it and buy that.
cheers for your input if you do see this
I've just ordered the Sport and a Sim Lab GT1! I knew this video was on the way, and I almost didn't watch it as I knew I'd get instant buyers remorse! I almost cancelled my order for the Pro, but I'm coming from a Thrustmaster T500rs, so even with the Sport I'm sure I'm still going to be absolutely blown away!
You’ll love the sport.
Boosted Media Just wanted to say I'm a newcomer to your channel but Ive thoroughly enjoyed your content. In depth knowledge and an easy presenting style are a winning combination. I'll be sure to look out your video explaining the Simcube set up when it arrives on Tuesday.
Don‘t worry, you‘ll be very happy with the sport, I can ensure you that.
You will love the hell out of the Sport, don`t worry a bit. It is still a lot of power to deal with, but it does not want to hurt you. Perfect for competition.
This really helped, thanks bud
I got the sport cause that all I could afford . I’m very happy with it and the savings got me a wheel rim
Hi, are the driver easy to setup ? and to manage the feedback settings?
@@MAMAMA341 yes very easy . Driver is app based and the ffb is mostly set and forget from presets then control volume within game
@@itchie great I looking to buy either the dd2 or the SC2 pro, but I think the sc2 pro will be my choice
@@MAMAMA341 you will be happy both .. can’t go wrong
Are you going to be testing the new VRS wheel base?
Can you please link the video from Niels you were mentioning? I'm not sure which one is that, he's been a bit productive regarding this topic :)
At this level of equipment it is mostly the immersion factor that people are looking for. Looking at your set up Will, your rig looks awesome and you are pretty much as close to you can get to the real thing. SIM racing is now becoming one of the best hobbies for car enthuiasts to get involved in.
I completely agree regarding the immersion factor and have mentioned that multiple times in this video series. I get my butt kicked by guys with G27s every day. lol
Does the dynamic range graph you draw assume you're using 100% strength setting for the ffb? would your point still be applicable if you only used it at say 35%?
I also would like to know the answer to your question.
The way output level is managed depends on the game. The point of the graph is to explain the principle of dynamic range.
Phenomenal. Thank you.
Hi Will,
I live in Australia and I want to buy the simucube pro2 base BUT, is it true the power supply provided for Australia is temperamental and cuts in and out regularly. Or is your experience, just plugging in and playing has always worked. Love your videos bro, keep em coming.
Hey Will, How does the wheel connect ? I didnt see any cable or is it wireless ? if its wireless does the wheel show in Windows control properties separate from the base. Meaning base axis and wheel axis or just base axis. I know it sounds confusing and your prob asking , why the hell is he asking this lol. I play Iracing, ACC and an older sim Nascar 2003. In NR2003 it will only allow 2 axis. For example a G29 is all pluged into the base so in properties it only shows g29 but if i unplug the pedals and run a set of pedals in usb, it will show the g29 which is 1 axis and now the pedals as axis 2. With my fanatec the base shows 2 bases so that takes both axis and the only way i can use my fanatec on NR03 is to plug my V3 into the base. Then it will stay at 2 axis because its in the base. If i plug them in via USB it doesnt work on NR03 because now it shows 2 fanatec base ( fanatec always shows 2 bases ) and now the pedals which makes 3. If Simicube base and wheel only show 1 axis in properties then i could use that base and add pedals which would be 2 axis.
I would easily go with the Sport. The power of the Sport is insane and already unrealistic (can't compare simwheel Nm to real-life Nm as the way FFB works and delivers & controls it's power, movements, etc. is completely, fundamentaly different to real-life). The reason I purchased the Pro over the Sport is because the Simucube 2 guys and the marketing / advertising said the Pro would have extra filters the Sport wouldn't. Well that wasn't the case after all, not only does the Sport have all the filters the Pro has, but neither the Sport nor the Pro have the linearity filter which the Pro (but not the Sport) was advertised as having - hopefully the Simcube 2 guys fix this because that's really not fair and literally false advertising. The slew-rate max of 4.0 on the Sport is already incredibly fast, accelerative, and spikey beyond realism (well actually that's not entirely true if your run a crazy amount of friction, damping, etc.). I run my slew-rate between 0.30 and 1.00. Sometimes I run somewhere between 1.0 and 3.0 for very, very specific games/cars.
Man totally true I bought sc2 sport last week and I can´t imagine when I would use 17Nm, and right know my rig is to weak to handle that force :D
D'oh I've just bought the sport! I wish this review came out 7 days ago!! I went for the sport because it's a bit lighter, only has one power supply and I didn't think I'd run it above 17Nm anyway. Ah well, I'm sure it's still going to be excellent
Don't worry cobber, there is a lot more to setting up the 2 wheels than what is in this video, the Sport is awesome and does not clip if you set it up properly, happy to send you some settings when you get it
Yep I’m with Wayne. You won’t be disappointed.
Wayne Shephard Wayne it will be great if you could share it with me too! That would help a lot!!!! :) please let me know how can you share it. Thanks!
@@christianrivera1392 look me up on Facebook and send a message
Hey Will, hope you're well man. I'm going to upgrade to a DD base soon (if I don't get the new RTX30 series card lol). Still on the fence on if I should move up to the Fanatec DD or Simucube DD. Thing is, I own multiple Fanatec wheels and would like to be able to use them with the Simucube if I end up getting it. Is this possible? If so, what sort of gear / adapters / etc. is needed to get the Fanatec wheels to work with Simucube? Thanks man.
Have a look at “sim racing machines” website
Boosted Media ah thank you.
Good work, keep it up
Great video. I liked the discussion on dynamic range. I'm assuming the sim racing titles automatically perform the proportional compression for you based on the max wheel force you specify?
Looking forward to the Fanatec comparison.
That's right, the peak torque output of the car, which is capped by your Strength / Max Force setting in iRacing maps to the Wheel Force value in iRacing, with all lower forces scaled proportionately. E.g. if Max Force (set in Nm if you click the Strength header) is set to 24nm and Wheel Force is set to 12nm, all the forces output by the sim are scaled down by 0.5 at the wheel.
Hi will struggling to get my simucube sport working with dirt rally 2.0 have you a solution as Google searches only throw up xml file edits and I can seem to get these to work either is it something I'm doing ideas please
Not sure why that would be sorry. Mine just worked with no hacks necessary.
@@boostedmedia okay thanks good to know that yours did that so I know there are no hacks necessary may try fresh install of game see if that works
So does that mean when you set your wheel strength to 12% vs 100% that your not using all 25nm in the capable wheel and are losing the capable dynamic range and should of bought a less powerful wheel (17nm) and use it at 100% and get all the details for the money? Thanks in advance!
So the sport is ok but the pro is best bang for the money good to know. Does the simucube software control pedals/shifter/handbrake?
I'm getting my first wheel and I was wondering what the best wheel would be would it be the Logitech g923 , g29, thrustmaster t300 rs gt or a fanatec.
@mugsy what about g923 is that worth the extra cash
What do you think about drifting, where we might not need a lot of force and might not have to be so sensitive to the surface? Also, would the pro be advantageous for wheel speed when flicking it 900 degrees over a small time frame? I am ordering one of the two this weekend. 200 is still 200 to put on the rest of the rig (this is pretty much the first purchase)
I think the Sport is probably the better option for drifting. Its response time is still plenty fast enough to react to flicking the wheel. The increased slew rate of the Pro is more beneficial for feeling detail in sudden sharp movements like hitting bumps and ripple strips, etc.
@@boostedmedia thank you for a great reply!
It will not affect your driving. You can still spin the wheel, and the motor can still spin the wheel at a 1000rpm, it just reacts to sudden force feedback direction changes a bit smoother, and that can be a good or bad thing. It can actually hinder your steering efforts to have a more busy wheel.
Sure you will love either. Got the Pro and it has improved my ability to drift IRL: realistic feel and brilliant that you can change the degrees of rotation to anything you like!
31:50 what game you playing there and track :D looks like fun
Very informative. I’m also very interested in a link to where you got your race seat.!
It’s a Luso Motors seat :)
Boosted Media AwesomeThanks! 🙏🏾
Just to give more information on your video for those watching the series:
12Nm strength is approx 30Nm Max Force.. 30Nm Max force is the iRacing Clipping point which also means that when the car clipped it was putting out OVER 30Nm of force in Telemetry.
Specific Output is the thing that really determines your REAL at the wheel force and it is a calculation of the Wheel Base max Output divided by the the Max Force Setting in iRacing.
When you ran at 12Nm you were running at a Specific Output of .4:1 Specific output on all of the wheels.. (40% of telemetry output) So all wheels were running the same strength at the wheel.
When You turned up the SPORT to 100% strength your specific output increased to .567:1 (56.7% of telemetry output)
When you turned up the PRO to 100% strength your specific output increased to .834:1 (83.4% of telemetry output)
I can't remember if you ran the Ultimate but turning that up to 100% and then changing the Wheel Force to 32Nm would have altered the Strength a bit lower but and you would have hit 1:1 specific output (100% Telemetry Output)
Great info. I always appreciate your input :)
So what setting would you recommend for sport ?
@@mannyfresh7065 So when you are talking about Specific Output it is whatever you feel comfortable with.. The only issue is that when you go to low on Specific output at least with iRacing you will start to lose grip feel (ie you will not be able to detect the transitions between under and oversteer characteristics because the cues are correct for Output of 1:1 so lowering the output lowers the intensity of those cues.. Generally they can start to be felt decently around .35 - .45 but the higher you can go the more you will start to be able to drive as you would a real car and lean on the weight of the wheel and really feel what the car is communicating.
ANY wheelbase can hit these numbers of Specific output, however.. That does not mean they won't clip heavily while doing so..
i.e.
a G25 which puts out around 2.5Nm would need a MaxForce Number of around 6Nm to reach .4:1 problem is at a 6Nm Max Force this also means that is the clipping point for the wheel (the point at which it will reach 2.5Nm output.. so when a car buts out 6Nm+ via telemetry everything will be 2.5Nm.. This is fine, of course if the car doesn't output more than 6Nm in Telemetry. problem is in iRacing even the lowest car on the force scale the MX-5 will put out around 12Nm fully loaded in a corner so at least HALF of the cornering dynamics are being clipped.
The Higher you go with WheelBase force the less likely you are to have an issue with clipping cars at a reasonable at the wheel force level. this is why it is generally reccomended that with iRacing you just put your Wheelbase force up to 100% and leave it and control the strength from within iRacing via the Max Force Slider. YES there are some exceptions to this as if you run lower specific outputs (higher Max Force Numbers) you may be able to Turn down the wheel to mitigate crash jolts without affecting the clipping levels.
For the sport it has 17Nm of force at .4:1 Your Max force would need to be at 42.5Nm or around that. at this setting probably about 85% of the cars in iRacing won't see any clipping whatsoever and you will get enough force through the wheel to feel stuff (NOTE: cars that output more Nm WILL feel heavier and some may be beyond what you enjoy driving with, for these you can turn them down but beware that even at these forces you can lose tire dynamics communication.
As for filtering on the Sport that is a little different story and alot more in-depth but generally you need Damping to help control precision, Friction to add weight, and Inertia help fight oscillations.. With the SC2 you also have Slew which helps with wheel correction speed and then of course the Recon Filter (interpolation Filter) which is good to just take noise out of the signal that can get in the way of the actual output feel.
Well this only solidified my desire, now for some patience 😅
Bretts gunna love us lol
Hi Will, I was wondering if you or one of your subscribers could let me know why you don’t use the Next Level Traction Plus platform anymore?
Huh? I’ve never had a traction plus platform.
Sorry, I have just started researching again and had previously watched many of your early vids, I thought you had one but was mistaken. Really enjoy your content, keep up the fantastic job!
Hmm but most people only use half or less of the available NMs when using DD wheels, so about 8~15 in most cases, no?
If that is what I'm using, doesn't that mean I would be getting the same amount of detail from pretty much all three options from simucube, besides the difference in terms of the sharpness of reponse and durability of the hardware...?
Correct.
Just watched this as i plan on getting a simcube 2 wheelbase , but im not a pro , but thats my aim , as im 15 would you say getting a sport right now is more worth it? As im currently on a csl elite
Sport is still a huge upgrade from the CSL. You’ll love it.
@@boostedmedia alright nice thanks! Cant wait to get it ngl , dd seems awesome😋
Could you do a review of the VRS wheelbase also?
I should have one here in the next few months. I was hoping it would be here in time for this series but unfortunately it didn’t play out the way I’d hoped.
Is there a difference between slew rates in the DD1 and DD2?
I don’t think so.
Do you think I would notice a difference with the pro to my original simucube 20nm,
perhapps better software?
I haven’t used an original Simucube so I don’t know. Sorry.
SC2 series has significantly smoother motors and more headroom in the electronics.
@@tilus75 No pressure, so you think i would notice the difference
@@colrz1 The smoothness and imporved latency is noticable.
On the other hand SC1 is still a super nice thing to have, and there is nothing wrong with it.
@@colrz1 I came from a Sc1 to Sc 2 pro. It is a bit smoother and better software. What I found were I liked recon 7 or even 8 smoothness on my Sc1 but lost detail in the process. The sc2 I could run at like 2-3 recon and it would be just as smooth with a lot more detail. I also love how the sc2 is able to lighten the wheel on corners a little bit. In conclusion it met my expectations and was a nice upgrade. If you are wanting what I mentioned then it may be good for you? Just to note the Sc1 is still great :)
I fully understand all this about NM, but i also feel like this video only speaks to the low % of the hardcore users. I watched Dave Cams video on the DD1, and i noted he said, that only a tiny % of people would ever need above 17nm.
I think the fact that you can do between all the bases makes you more sensitve, than the average sim racer.
It doesn't matter how big you are, you don't get into a real car and ask a mechanic to make the steering heavier just because you are a big guy, the steering is what it is for any given vehicle.
Dynamic range is the range between the subtle effects and the heavier effects, dynamic headroom is something different (more like max volume on a hifi), it might be worth explaining those differences in more detail perhaps? For example, you don't need a hifi on max volume to get a pleasurable experience, same applies to torque in a wheel, the quality of the delivery is more important than the loudness or strength.
Sims are games at the end of the day and a T300 or CSL Elite are good enough to get a more than decent 'sim' racing experience for most people. In game software implementation is also a factor, try the original Assetto Corsa with a G27 and then try the same wheel in Iracing, the difference is like you've changed wheels, Assetto gets far more out of the wheel, in iracing it's a clunky and unsatisfying experience.
Brake Pedals?... now that's a different story!
This is fortunately not true. Competition cars, karts, and even most road cars has adjustable caster.
The more caster you have the more self aligning torque and bump forces will be present on the steering shaft.
Some drivers tend to start with this adjustment to max out the caster and camber on their cars to maximize performance.
On top of all this LMP and F1 cars has digitally adjustable steering assist on the fly.
My point is you don't need large amounts of torque in sim racing, it's quality of delivery that counts. You can get a good experience with a wheel that only has 4nm of torque if game / wheel is implemented properly. A GT3 car hits peak torque a very small amount of the time anyway and modern Gt3 cars are all equipped with power steering and peak torque of 8-12nm, but only at occasional peaks, Dodge Viper SRT-10 = 4.5 NmI, Lotus 20 = 4.0-4.5 Nm without power steering. I guess if you have cash to burn then each to their own, it's only my opinion and everyone has one, if you are a real race driver and have to have 1:1 then I get it!@@tilus75
Does ffb = dynamic range? What i mean is: when you reduce ffb do you lose dynamic range?
6:26 why did you protest Will? xD
Can't wrap my head around this dynamic range.
1) just line in audio signal, you one can amplify ANY range to be present into usable and desired range. No problem at all. Most of the modern music is "compressed". Hands not so sensitive as hears.
2) nobody is driving 17 or 25Nm, all reviewers set it to 10-14Max (range is compressed anyway). Some pro drivers turn it lower than 10Nm so it won't disturb fast (sometimes abuse) control.
3) the main quality of strong wheelbase - "slew rate", "how strong they are to react fast". Weak wheels slow to react and can't catch up with car+light-steering wheel alone. That's why Invicta feels better than SimuCube 2 Pro (especially with heavier wheels). It is not always related to Max NM and do depends on "amplifier" schematics + power-supply.
dd1 or simucube sport?
What one has a faster response time?
Pro as discussed in the video.
Hey what kind of motion do you have?
Next Level Racing V3 platform
Boosted Media does it bother you that the wheel and monitors don’t move with it? Or not really?
No. I don’t have it moving enough for that to be an issue. It’s simulating the movement of your body in the seat of a real car due to gforces, bumps, etc rather than simulating the movement of the car.
Boosted Media gotcha gotcha! Yeah I’m trying to figure out what kind of motion I want. Sfx-100 is nice because it moves the entire rig but might be too hard for me to setup. Will the next level fit in an 8020 rig?
I don't know what you guys are doing with all this torque. I turn down the torque slightly on my 8nm CSL DD. And I'm not exactly a small guy.
@boostedmedia Your PC case model 🤔
Would be interesting if someone put random wheelbase to see if you can recognize which one is
Can tell the difference between the sport and pro in a blind test but not the pro and ultimate.
Near the end of your vid you were driving a Ferrari on a road course. What sim was that and where were you
Assetto Corsa, High Force. I did a video on it here: czcams.com/video/E8nH0DGs1lQ/video.html
Well that's a bit over $4400 I won't see again.....that's the Pro plus hero quick-release plus hero brackets plus HRS momo wheel
I couldn’t decide between a G29 and a G920, I’m screwed 😂
Probably still faster than me
Boosted Media I’m still using my 10 year old G27, I bought a G29 but preferred the feel of my old faithful G27, the G27 pedals gave up the ghost about 3years ago hence the G29 purchase, my G27 is pretty slack around centre but she weights up nicely through the high speed stuff even at 2.2nm 😂, if you read this reply your doing a great job for the sim racing community, your content is fun and informative, keep up the good work 👍
T300
@@Steve_Greening I currently have a VRS DirectForce, a Fanatec CSL-E, a Thrustmaster T-GT and a Logitech G29. The G29 originally replaced a G25 and I've used othe Logitech and Thrustmaster wheels. First I'll say the G29 will loosen up over time like your G27 did and personally I think as Logitech wheels loosen up they feel a little better than when they are new smooth and tight. Another thing I'll point out is if I turn the VRS DD all the way down to match the force of the Logitech, there is not a big gap in the detail but what there is a big gap in is how the VRS wheel is able to keep up better and how it can self center even at low force settings where all the low end consumer wheels can't and this for me at least makes a big difference in a way I could not go back to those low end wheels. I'll also mention I am not a fan of how Thrustmaster wheels feel and if you like the feeling of a Logitech I would not actually recommend a Thrustmaster wheel to you at all unless you also play console and then I might recommend a Thrustmaster package just so you can also buy T-LCM pedals which are one of the best buys on the makret at the moment. If you are a PC sim race and wanting to step up from your Logitech in the future but can't justify or afford a DD, then I'd only recommend Fanatec, even the entry level CSL-E is better than any wheel Thrustmaster make. But if there is any way you can afford a DD, never buy another non DD wheel. Yes they are expensive but in my opinion buying a non DD is like buying a PodRide to drive instead of buying a real car. I'm the opposite of what was mentioned in these videos, I don't like paying more for the "best". I'm cheap and all about "best value" so I would prefer a less expensive wheel to be better and honestly still believe a premium gear driven wheel could be created to compete directly against a direct drive wheel but at a much lower price. So I don't want to say buy a direct drive wheel but after using one I really feel like every cent I've spent on non DD's has been wasted. And my advice would be if you have a non DD wheel, sell it before it has wear or issues so you can get the most for it. As for what DD wheel to get. I'm keen to see the future videos comparing Fanatec to SC2 here but again after using the VRS, the videos so far do not surprise me and I can't imagine a big difference between any of the wheels not using stepper motors. I have a VRS, now I'm thinking about buying a DD1 so both my son and I have a DD and so I can compare the DD1 directly to the VRS.
@@theauthenticsteve I need to step up from the original g29 because of pedals. They are nowhere near immersive. To use a different set id need to switch the base or get a drive hub. Now a logical and cost effective way is to go CSL-e bc of my gtsport and ps4 cravings (occasionally) but then again - as you wrote - if i could afford a direct drive why wouldnt i? Ive allready spent 200 to much because of g29. Now my issue is nobody can confirm any kind of compatibility between SC2 on drivehub but the DD1 works oob. on ps4 but has weird software issues on pc so therefore doesnt exactly justify its price. Plus i like the idea of osw. Open sim wheel. Kind of like open source. To bad most of the companies try and keep it proprietary.
The more I look at it, I dont see how Fanatec DD1/2 can be compared because of price alone. Rims for the Simucube are stupid expensive with button box like the Fanatec come with already
This will be accounted for in the comparison.
Feel like the DD1 and DD2 are much better than the simucubes
@@markcuban5915 First person I've ever seen say that, out of probably 10k people lol
@@Callsign_BH when you compare them and the price point I dont see how simucube is better, they perform better but for the price point absolutely no, fanatec atleast has a decent pricing and wheels that aren't almost as expensive as the base it self
@@markcuban5915 So why don`t you attach a Fanatec rim to the Simucube? Simucube bases are actually cheaper than a Fana DD.
That thumbnail has to be the creepiest smile I’ve ever seen 🤣
They’re bloody heavy. Lol
@@boostedmedia I just CRACKED up when i saw it
This is just will convincing himself the pro is better when he was earlier on.
I love how early on it was like he actuallt considered people who want more power now he doesnt like ever. Its always oh idk anybody who would need or want this or that. Its like dude slot would. Thats like saying idk who would want a simicube pro 2 lol. You have yet to say that so yeah idk bias? Maybe? Any other brand its ahh naw.
watching this as my dd1 ps4 f1 edition died on trying to install the latest firmware. Gonna request a refund and go down the simucube road, updating looks much easier and reliable and I can get a sc2 pro and ascher wheel for 200 less than the dd1 f1 edition. Absolutely shocked at the fanatec quality honestly, bricked units look pretty common online, never heard of SC having this issue
Dont know why I am watching this I can't afford any of them lmao
I don't know about other people but I'd love an opinion to pay a base off monthly, i seriously can not afford to pay 1500 pounds off in one go, i currently own a thrustmaster tsxw, and have well over 2000 hours on all my sims so i really need one, Is there anyone who offers this
@@designamk1160 yh the only problem there is there like 3k daft prices, I mean i have a tsxw should get a little bit for that
@@richysracing9524 digital motorsports if you have not got one allready
where is the Hi guys Will here?
Haha must have been before I started doing it!
Please do a comparison to this and the DD1 please!!
I said in the first 10 seconds of the video that I will.
@@boostedmedia my fault didn't catch that in the video lol
I really doubt you can feel the difference in slew rate. If you're running 12 Nm max, then the motor will have to go from 0 to 12 in an extreme case. So the pro would take 1.5ms and the sport would take 2.5 ms. You're really claiming you can feel the difference in torque response of 1ms? Bullshit
With all settings the same between the two bases, the pro feels a little sharper. I can only assume all else’s being equal it must be down to the difference in slew rate. Just relaying what I feel.
You have so many Simucube 2 give me one😅😀😅😍
@@Leynad778 how do you know😅😀😅😍
He knows because I said so in the first video in the series. The Sport and Pro are on loan from HRS.
@@boostedmedia Oh
Thank you for your reply
Everyone is a racing simulation enthusiast
Just kidding😅😀😅😍
Get a raspberry pi accelerometer and tape it in the middle of the wheel......... Data
They aren’t taking safety seriously, they’re just being extra annoying. If they cared about safety they wouldn’t allow the wheel to torque hard enough to hurt the average person
That microphone needs moving out the way
Why the gloves 🤣
Prefer not to have my hands covered in blisters