I'm rebuilding my Dana 35 in my Jeep Cherokee, and this is the absolute best video I've come across on axle rebuilds. Very concise and thorough explanations, and all contingencies pointed out and considered. Now I can finally get this thing back together tomorrow. Thanks so much, guys!
There is something to be said about having the right tools for the job. Every problem these dudes ran into (from what we can see) they had a tool to fix it. That kinda stuff only comes with experience, nice job
This is the most honest video on installing a ring and pinion that I have seen. I have done many rear ends and these guys know what they are doing. They show all the things you will run into and making your own special bearings for checking is a huge time saver. Creating drag on the gear set when checking the pattern is the same as I have done. Using big pipe wrenches is also as real as it gets. Working outside in the snow also rates high in my book too! Great video guys, thanks for your efforts here. Also I like the almost Canadian accent.
Be careful and do research on who you have to do it. I had a very reputable garage do mine and they gave up and it had a whine on the acceleration side, that they said they couldn't get out and charged me $500.00. Come to find out they didn't have a depth gage to adjust the pinion properly, thats what the mechanic told me. So, I bought all of the tools to do it correctly and doing it myself. If you do enough research and have the tools you can do it yourself and have the satisfaction of job well done. Just sayn!
Very well done. People may not realize why you took so much care when pressing bearings on but you never want any force to be exerted on the cage and rollers. I always take a finger and spin the bearing just as I'm starting to press it to verify I'm not putting any force on the cage or rollers.
I'll be regearing d30/c8.25. Never done this before. Thanks for posting. Been watching lots of regearing video, I found you guys to have the best info. I'll be using those tricks on the press.
Just what i was looking for, how to get the front pinion bearing on for test fit. Now i will sand down the inside of the old bearing to use as a tester. I'm rebuilding my 1981 GM 12 bolt differential because my center driveshaft bearing was wore out enough that the pinion nut came loose and dropped the driveshaft right in front of my house. The only damage was to the pinion gear which had one corner of the tooth broke off. Bought the Yukon ring and pinion kit from Summit for $580 which comes with all the bearings and seal in the rear end to include the axles. I am doing this project in my driveway so i'll have to get creative putting that pinion back in. I'm going to try and drill two holes in a piece of angle iron about 2 foot long so i can put two of the yoke bolts in and it will hit on the ground and hold while i wrench down on that pinion nut. fingers crossed. OH, and great video by far out of the several I have watching during this build.
I've only done one. It is the kind of thing you only run into once every 5 years or so, unless you specialize in setting up rear ends. You guys did a good job of showing how difficult this job I'd to get just right. And it's one of those things you don't want to guess is good enough. It will cost you in the end of you don't do it right. If it was my car I'd put a Mopar 8 3/4" or Ford 9" inch rear end in it so I could swap third members when I went to the track and then again when I drove it on the street for any length of time. That allows you to set up the gear and ring and pinion clearances once, then swapping ratio's is a half hour thing, plus gear oil and whatever you come up with to store the spare center section int while you're at the drags or running cross country. That set up works great! 15 to 20 minutes to do the swap and your ready to rock!
Very informative. Good job. I'll be doing my 2003 Mustang GT 8.8 in a few weeks. I'm planning on taking the rear end out of the car rather than doing this with the car on jack stands.
I couldn't find the latest video but I'll look again. I have to do a Dana 70. After watching videos like this I feel confident I can pull it off. Thanks
In theory the pinion should be set so the apex of the pitch line of the gear teeth is at a set distance and below from the centerline of the ring gear assembly`. This is controlled by the shoulder on the pinion and the shim. When assembled at the factory this would have been done first and the Ring Gear set to the Pinion. In the late 70s Ford was short on capacity for Ring and Pinion sets for Pintos or Mavericks iirc. They contracted AMC to provide how ever many gear sets they wanted. When the first gear sets were finished. They were set-up in inspection on a machnethat would run the gear set to CV heck tooth match etc. The first gear sets howled like a SOB. The Ford Process Engineer on site commented they sounded pretty good. The inspector started up one of the gear sets going into our* rear ends. All you heard was a nearly audible hum. The Ford engineer commented that it wasn't necessary to be that quiet because you could just put more sound insulation in the car. The difference between the gear sets for Ford and AMC? The AMC gear sets were run in Gleason Gear Set Lappers to even ot any variations in the tooth surface due to cutting the tooth form and heat treat distortion. Gear Sets were forged 4140 heat treated and stress relieves to 50RC iirc. `these gears are known as Offset Hypoid Gears specifically *spent 33+ years there doing machine repair and Tool Maker work. When I started we built engines, rear ends, complete body assembly, stamping and final assembly. When I left in 05 we were down to building 4.0s, 3.5s and 2.7 Sludge-o-Matics. It's a big empty field now.
Thanks for sharing that knowledge. On a different note, its what's happened to the entire country, everything turning back into nothing. So do u think AMC deliberately heldback from them final steps on Fords, hoping for just a lil upper hand of a quieter car?
@@annsarne7722 No, the Ring and Pinion sets were manufactured exactly to Ford's specifications. For a while Grand Fury's and Omni's were built in AMC's Kenosha Assembly Plant. Vehicle quality rose by any measurable standard on both model lines. The tooling for the Grand Fury was severely worn out. Uniside assembly welders had at least 1/8" of play in all directions. When we told the Chrysler engineers that this was unacceptable he replied there wasn't time to send the equipment to an outside shop for repair. We told him it was no problem. We'd just pull the bushings out and make a new set in house. We had a full service repair shop in house. He looked at us like we were from Mars. Such capability was unheard of in most Big Three facilities. The only thing we really had to send out was stuff that was larger than our capacity machining wise. We made most of our required repair parts in house.
Are all the steps done here required for a truck or car where all were doing is swapping gears? Mainly asking for year models 99+ differences to yours.
If these are a set of factory gears then the ring and pinion were lapped at the final stage of manufacturing. When gear sets would be run in the test room all you heard was study hum. No tooth engagement noise at all. Its thirty+ years since the AMC read end division was shut down. IIRC all of the gear cutting machinery was bought by a Chinese firm
I'm currently replacing the ring and pinion in my 81 CJ8. The original pinion was shimmed behind the inner bearing cone. Some are shimmed behind the inner bearing. Does it matter which way it is shimmed? My install kit came with pinion bearing shims but not the larger shims that go behind the cone. I would use the original one but it was broken like the one you had in this video. I was concerned the bearing would run too deep in the housing without it. If it does need to be shimmed the way it was originally, do you know the part number for them?
How did the sealed bearing work out…? I like that idea… any suggestion after your install? Would you care to share the bearing part number? Thank you GT
The freezer/oven trick for putting the bearing on doesn't work well because as soon as the hot bearing hits the freezing shaft it contracts too quickly. Just heat the bearing and leave the pinion at room temperature.
That was six months ago, now I can answer my own question. there's no set "torque" on the pinion nut, you're looking for the amount of preload on the bearing itself, as it's moving. It will take a fair amount of torque however to crush that sleeve, to get the required bearing preload.
@@Oldsmob455 figured I didn't want to risk it because I read about an old milright saying they can explode, that's why the correct puller have a shell that locks over the whole bearing. As long as they never explode the way you did it is way faster than cutting the cage and then pulling the ring off for sure.
@@Ashroyer86 you can take something like a pipe that has a large enough diameter, and put it around the Bearing, so the bearing is "walled" in. just in case it does shatter, and always, always wear safety glasses.
@@Oldsmob455 I wouldn't either. You put the old pinion in and cover on and put axle seals back in. I was gonna por 15 mine but then it would make the rusty dodge look even more rusty.
Sad face! I think I'm going to flush the mud/rust/gear lube out, fix the drum brakes, paint it and call it done. What a bloody pain in the ass! When it frags, I'm thinking a dana 44 for the Jeep.
The best part of the video is at 19:50, but you have to watch the whole video to see why. I wish all CZcams videos were this concise.
I'm rebuilding my Dana 35 in my Jeep Cherokee, and this is the absolute best video I've come across on axle rebuilds. Very concise and thorough explanations, and all contingencies pointed out and considered. Now I can finally get this thing back together tomorrow. Thanks so much, guys!
There is something to be said about having the right tools for the job. Every problem these dudes ran into (from what we can see) they had a tool to fix it.
That kinda stuff only comes with experience, nice job
This is the most honest video on installing a ring and pinion that I have seen. I have done many rear ends and these guys know what they are doing. They show all the things you will run into and making your own special bearings for checking is a huge time saver. Creating drag on the gear set when checking the pattern is the same as I have done. Using big pipe wrenches is also as real as it gets. Working outside in the snow also rates high in my book too! Great video guys, thanks for your efforts here. Also I like the almost Canadian accent.
I learned one very important thing watching this video. I learned that I'm going to have someone else change my ring and pinion.
You guys are all-pro
Be careful and do research on who you have to do it. I had a very reputable garage do mine and they gave up and it had a whine on the acceleration side, that they said they couldn't get out and charged me $500.00. Come to find out they didn't have a depth gage to adjust the pinion properly, thats what the mechanic told me. So, I bought all of the tools to do it correctly and doing it myself. If you do enough research and have the tools you can do it yourself and have the satisfaction of job well done. Just sayn!
depth gauges are just to get you in the ballpark. Final pattern should be determined with marking compound
A trick: you can watch movies at KaldroStream. I've been using them for watching lots of of movies recently.
@Terrence Arturo yup, been using Kaldrostream for since november myself :D
@Terrence Arturo Definitely, I have been watching on kaldrostream for since november myself =)
Very well done. People may not realize why you took so much care when pressing bearings on but you never want any force to be exerted on the cage and rollers. I always take a finger and spin the bearing just as I'm starting to press it to verify I'm not putting any force on the cage or rollers.
Great video man! I'm about to tackle this on my AMC 20 as well. Really appreciate the knowledge.
I'll be regearing d30/c8.25. Never done this before. Thanks for posting. Been watching lots of regearing video, I found you guys to have the best info. I'll be using those tricks on the press.
Thank you very much for showing on how to rebuild a diff
Great job guys! Love all the details and special considerations.
great video, no bull just straight to what need to do. Thanks
thats a realy good job.
thankyou soo much.
Just what i was looking for, how to get the front pinion bearing on for test fit. Now i will sand down the inside of the old bearing to use as a tester. I'm rebuilding my 1981 GM 12 bolt differential because my center driveshaft bearing was wore out enough that the pinion nut came loose and dropped the driveshaft right in front of my house. The only damage was to the pinion gear which had one corner of the tooth broke off. Bought the Yukon ring and pinion kit from Summit for $580 which comes with all the bearings and seal in the rear end to include the axles. I am doing this project in my driveway so i'll have to get creative putting that pinion back in. I'm going to try and drill two holes in a piece of angle iron about 2 foot long so i can put two of the yoke bolts in and it will hit on the ground and hold while i wrench down on that pinion nut. fingers crossed. OH, and great video by far out of the several I have watching during this build.
I've only done one. It is the kind of thing you only run into once every 5 years or so, unless you specialize in setting up rear ends. You guys did a good job of showing how difficult this job I'd to get just right. And it's one of those things you don't want to guess is good enough. It will cost you in the end of you don't do it right. If it was my car I'd put a Mopar 8 3/4" or Ford 9" inch rear end in it so I could swap third members when I went to the track and then again when I drove it on the street for any length of time. That allows you to set up the gear and ring and pinion clearances once, then swapping ratio's is a half hour thing, plus gear oil and whatever you come up with to store the spare center section int while you're at the drags or running cross country. That set up works great! 15 to 20 minutes to do the swap and your ready to rock!
Sounds good but I've never done anything in 20 min. Low iq I guess🍺
Very informative. Good job. I'll be doing my 2003 Mustang GT 8.8 in a few weeks. I'm planning on taking the rear end out of the car rather than doing this with the car on jack stands.
I just replaced the ring, pinion and carrier in mine
Wow that's allot of work
great video guys.... #teamwork
thank you for this
Well said ! It's a job !
I wish I had the time to paint mine like yours.
I like the editing. You included all the major points. I'm still on the fence on whether or not to do this myself (with a friend of course).
Did you wach the latest version of thia released a few weeks ago? That set up needed a backlash change to yield a ok pattern.
I couldn't find the latest video but I'll look again. I have to do a Dana 70. After watching videos like this I feel confident I can pull it off. Thanks
Oops, this is the latest version.
Yep, this was good. :)
Steven Ko
I guess I ain't doing this either. Very good video.
This is the best DIY video I have found so far on the rear rebuild. Nice Job. What is the ARP number for the studs.
In theory the pinion should be set so the apex of the pitch line of the gear teeth is at a set distance and below from the centerline of the ring gear assembly`. This is controlled by the shoulder on the pinion and the shim. When assembled at the factory this would have been done first and the Ring Gear set to the Pinion.
In the late 70s Ford was short on capacity for Ring and Pinion sets for Pintos or Mavericks iirc. They contracted AMC to provide how ever many gear sets they wanted. When the first gear sets were finished. They were set-up in inspection on a machnethat would run the gear set to CV heck tooth match etc. The first gear sets howled like a SOB. The Ford Process Engineer on site commented they sounded pretty good. The inspector started up one of the gear sets going into our* rear ends. All you heard was a nearly audible hum. The Ford engineer commented that it wasn't necessary to be that quiet because you could just put more sound insulation in the car. The difference between the gear sets for Ford and AMC? The AMC gear sets were run in Gleason Gear Set Lappers to even ot any variations in the tooth surface due to cutting the tooth form and heat treat distortion. Gear Sets were forged 4140 heat treated and stress relieves to 50RC iirc.
`these gears are known as Offset Hypoid Gears specifically
*spent 33+ years there doing machine repair and Tool Maker work. When I started we built engines, rear ends, complete body assembly, stamping and final assembly. When I left in 05 we were down to building 4.0s, 3.5s and 2.7 Sludge-o-Matics. It's a big empty field now.
Thanks for sharing that knowledge. On a different note, its what's happened to the entire country, everything turning back into nothing. So do u think AMC deliberately heldback from them final steps on Fords, hoping for just a lil upper hand of a quieter car?
@@annsarne7722
No, the Ring and Pinion sets were manufactured exactly to Ford's specifications.
For a while Grand Fury's and Omni's were built in AMC's Kenosha Assembly Plant. Vehicle quality rose by any measurable standard on both model lines. The tooling for the Grand Fury was severely worn out. Uniside assembly welders had at least 1/8" of play in all directions. When we told the Chrysler engineers that this was unacceptable he replied there wasn't time to send the equipment to an outside shop for repair. We told him it was no problem. We'd just pull the bushings out and make a new set in house. We had a full service repair shop in house. He looked at us like we were from Mars. Such capability was unheard of in most Big Three facilities. The only thing we really had to send out was stuff that was larger than our capacity machining wise. We made most of our required repair parts in house.
Where are you guys located? Need some work done !
Are all the steps done here required for a truck or car where all were doing is swapping gears? Mainly asking for year models 99+ differences to yours.
What part number are those ARP studs?
Great video BTW, I had no idea the AMC 20 had it's pinion shims behind the race. Thanks for the knowledge!
I don't recall but I thinnk ARP would know. I got the idea from Ultimates sight.
If these are a set of factory gears then the ring and pinion were lapped at the final stage of manufacturing. When gear sets would be run in the test room all you heard was study hum. No tooth engagement noise at all. Its thirty+ years since the AMC read end division was shut down. IIRC all of the gear cutting machinery was bought by a Chinese firm
How come you didn't use your press to install the pinion bearing?
I'm currently replacing the ring and pinion in my 81 CJ8. The original pinion was shimmed behind the inner bearing cone. Some are shimmed behind the inner bearing. Does it matter which way it is shimmed? My install kit came with pinion bearing shims but not the larger shims that go behind the cone. I would use the original one but it was broken like the one you had in this video. I was concerned the bearing would run too deep in the housing without it. If it does need to be shimmed the way it was originally, do you know the part number for them?
I don't know the part number. Maybe give summit a call and see what they have.
How did the sealed bearing work out…? I like that idea… any suggestion after your install? Would you care to share the bearing part number? Thank you
GT
It's still working. I don't recall the bearing number.
The freezer/oven trick for putting the bearing on doesn't work well because as soon as the hot bearing hits the freezing shaft it contracts too quickly. Just heat the bearing and leave the pinion at room temperature.
Just put the bearing in the microwave for a few minutes?
👍👌
What type of paint do you use to get the pinion pattern?
marking paint. Pretty sure Summit sells it or Amazon.
Could you explain pinion preload some more ? I don't really get it, how does that differ from whatever the torque spec is on that pinion nut?
That was six months ago, now I can answer my own question. there's no set "torque" on the pinion nut, you're looking for the amount of preload on the bearing itself, as it's moving. It will take a fair amount of torque however to crush that sleeve, to get the required bearing preload.
4:11 RIP headphone users
Did you just have that pinion bearing by the cage when you pressed it off or did you get under the inner ring?
You can only get under the cage
@@Oldsmob455 figured I didn't want to risk it because I read about an old milright saying they can explode, that's why the correct puller have a shell that locks over the whole bearing. As long as they never explode the way you did it is way faster than cutting the cage and then pulling the ring off for sure.
@@Ashroyer86 you can take something like a pipe that has a large enough diameter, and put it around
the Bearing, so the bearing is "walled" in. just in case it does shatter, and always, always wear safety glasses.
Screw that crush sleeve lol. I will be getting a crush sleeve eliminator.
Thats the best way to go in my opinion. Just sayn.
Is that a real thing? Or is it like a screwdriver stretcher? I'm new at this that part looks too hard to do in my driveway.
Is this a Non-C clip axle?
Yes
Gonna take mine off the stands and lay it in the doorway on some blocks
Is that a locker? Looks different.
No, it's a clutch type posi.
@@Oldsmob455 That's a PowerLock....been looking for a picture of it! Nice job!
I heard of sticking the bearing in a deep fryer
I heard a microwave, for a few minutes
Can,t you guys secure the axle a little better.
Pay someone a couple bucks to sandblast it.
I'd never sandblast an opened up rear end
@@Oldsmob455 I wouldn't either. You put the old pinion in and cover on and put axle seals back in. I was gonna por 15 mine but then it would make the rusty dodge look even more rusty.
Sad face! I think I'm going to flush the mud/rust/gear lube out, fix the drum brakes, paint it and call it done. What a bloody pain in the ass! When it frags, I'm thinking a dana 44 for the Jeep.