My man, I want to express my sincere thanks for this video! You saved me $200+. We had a pair of new bifold doors we had painted, and this tactic worked for them. I had to trim ours down 3/4 of an inch due to new flooring and a non-standard opening. When I saw the hollow door after I cut the pieces I about lost it and thought I'd ruined them. I had to cut out the inner piece for all 4 sections with my Swiss army knife, but I used some liquid nails and wood screws to glue it back in post-cutting. They sat and cured overnight, and are now installed and working like a charm.
Hat's off to you. No bullshit long intro, no color commentary, nonshit music in the background, I knew exactly what I was searching for and found your video and you got straight to the point.
Cool trick. Since the door is open maybe you can inject the SPRAY FOAM inside to make them more soundproof if any one desire that. What do you guys think?
Two concerns here; One, inside of a hollow core door there are MDF or styrofoam blocks to keep the panels apart. Putting expanding foam around these partitions is problematic. You will never get an even distribution enough to make a significant impact as a sound barrier. It would be more effective to fill it with sawdust or a material like it and then cap it off. Two, expanding foam can be powerful enough to separate the panels of a hollow-core door. MDF stile & rail is porous. The factories glue these doors together. It's not the best adhesion, as you can see countless videos on how easy it is to rip apart the door panels apart. Some food for thought. Cheers!
Thanks for sharing. I saw this on This Old House years ago, but couldn't find a good video to confirm it until I saw yours. Have you ever done this with a vertical cut? I need an 18 inch door, but I can't find one for sale, so I'm thinking about ripping down a 32 inch door, instead. Thoughts?
Up to 2:37... fine. But before you glue that core back in, the remains of the hardboard that is stuck to it needs trimming off with a smooth plane. Only takes a minute or so, but if you don't do it, you'll end up with the bottom of the door swelled by 3 or 4 mm in thickness at least.
I personally wouldn’t recommend it. The door will most likely fall apart. I would either rebuild the door frame for a 30” door or have a custom door built
@@Byhamdirtworx Well, that's now what I wanted to hear. Ihave no way to increase the size of the door frame (cramming a door into a small area for attic access). I"ve removed the tops and bottoms before. And just assumed I'd be able to take a foot off the side too. We'll see! Nothing to lose but a few minutes of trying I guess.
My man, I want to express my sincere thanks for this video! You saved me $200+. We had a pair of new bifold doors we had painted, and this tactic worked for them. I had to trim ours down 3/4 of an inch due to new flooring and a non-standard opening. When I saw the hollow door after I cut the pieces I about lost it and thought I'd ruined them. I had to cut out the inner piece for all 4 sections with my Swiss army knife, but I used some liquid nails and wood screws to glue it back in post-cutting. They sat and cured overnight, and are now installed and working like a charm.
Hat's off to you. No bullshit long intro, no color commentary, nonshit music in the background, I knew exactly what I was searching for and found your video and you got straight to the point.
Big thumbs up... Quick, easy, and time saving... Thx 👍
man thanks you saved me from throwing alot of tools !!!
great tip. I hadn't even thought this far through regarding the bottom cuz I am going to need to cut the door length. thanks.
I just filled mine with “great stuff” and let it dry and then trimmed it either a razor knife or
Cool trick. Since the door is open maybe you can inject the SPRAY FOAM inside to make them more soundproof if any one desire that. What do you guys think?
Good one 👍
Two concerns here; One, inside of a hollow core door there are MDF or styrofoam blocks to keep the panels apart. Putting expanding foam around these partitions is problematic. You will never get an even distribution enough to make a significant impact as a sound barrier. It would be more effective to fill it with sawdust or a material like it and then cap it off. Two, expanding foam can be powerful enough to separate the panels of a hollow-core door. MDF stile & rail is porous. The factories glue these doors together. It's not the best adhesion, as you can see countless videos on how easy it is to rip apart the door panels apart. Some food for thought. Cheers!
Use material from bean bag chairs .
Great video !! Iam installing doors and iam new to this so this was very helpful
Awesome trick. I was going to cut and plane a 2x4 down to size!
Very nicely done!
Easy peasy - thank you!
Did you have to replace the Floor Tiles afterwards ?
Nice job just get that camera set before filming and You got it !!
Thanks that brilliant now there is no excuse for hubby to say it cant be done
Thanks for sharing. I saw this on This Old House years ago, but couldn't find a good video to confirm it until I saw yours. Have you ever done this with a vertical cut? I need an 18 inch door, but I can't find one for sale, so I'm thinking about ripping down a 32 inch door, instead. Thoughts?
What is the max you can trim on the doors without replacing the core
Up to 2:37... fine. But before you glue that core back in, the remains of the hardboard that is stuck to it needs trimming off with a smooth plane. Only takes a minute or so, but if you don't do it, you'll end up with the bottom of the door swelled by 3 or 4 mm in thickness at least.
I filled mine with “great stuff” and then let it dry and then trimmed off the fluff
Can I cut off a half inch off the bottom and use a handsaw?
Great tip.
Is that a tile floor you're hammering in to?
Next Video: Repairing chipped floor tile from chisel hits.
It is fully waterproof?
How thick is that core piece I have to take an inch off of one is the piece bigger than an inch
It’s about 1” so you will have to do what I did
I am assuming there is no way to attach a mirror securely to one of those hollow doors?
Just use dry wall anchors
now what are the odds you can do this on the vertical too, if i wanted to make a 30" a 26"?
I personally wouldn’t recommend it. The door will most likely fall apart. I would either rebuild the door frame for a 30” door or have a custom door built
@@Byhamdirtworx Well, that's now what I wanted to hear. Ihave no way to increase the size of the door frame (cramming a door into a small area for attic access). I"ve removed the tops and bottoms before. And just assumed I'd be able to take a foot off the side too. We'll see! Nothing to lose but a few minutes of trying I guess.
What was that fancy saw you used to cut the middle core?
Oscillating multi tool. It’s my second most used and useful tool to have. Impact drive is my first.
What kind of door it is
What type of glue do you use?
I use a high quality wood glue.
You better keep your day job.
7
Crap. I would not have wasted a lot of time making new ones if I saw your video earlier.
You know they make 78 inch high doors, right?
Well the door was 77”
@@Byhamdirtworx which means on a 78 inch door you can cut 1/2 inch off each end and not have it cut into the hallow section ;)
Wow, really!
Lowe's or Home Depot doesn't carry 78" doors.. At least not in Columbus Ohio area..