Hey Bevel Head, nice video. I am currently building enduro bike and want to use the D-box due to it being much more resistent to dirt and water compared to the m-unit. My question is if there is a simple way to integrate control lights for the oil switch or neutral switch for the dashboard? As far as I've seen the d-box only provides a control light for the indicators. Cheers!
The problem is that the oil pressure / neutral lights use a earth 'switch' on the engine which is is not controlled by the D box. The power to the idiot lights is controlled by the D Box when the ignition is turned on, but to complete the circuit/break the circuit is controlled by the switches on the engine.
Good morning, a question: As long as the battery negative is connected to the frame (wire from neg terminal to frame), then grounding anywhere on frame is sufficient?
currently also debating a controlbox for my 1978 z650 the M Unit being pretty expensive i was looking for alternatives. Would be interested to see it on the bike or maybe even the installation process. Thanks for your video from the Netherlands.
I am making a vid of wiring the Z650 with the D Box at the moment, going ok so far. Hope to have it out this time next week. Just waiting for a couple of parts, such as the correct indicator stems.
@@Merch131ho awesome mine is a scrambler build but previous owners have made a right time mess of the wiring so about to pull everything out and also need to make a new battery tray/controllbox tray. Just had the carbs cleaned so she runs great will wait for your video. Have a great weekend there. Greetz, Leo
I have always used them with a battery, doubt they would work without, they need power before they would work. Don't know if turning over the engine with a kickstart would provide enough current to activate it, and so provide power to the coils and ignition..
Nice Video! I am currently doing this on my Sportster and asking myself where to grab 12V from the Ignition Lock/Switch: ignition position or acc position of the key? Thanks
HD ignition style switches with 3 positions are available on Ebay, while simple ignition barrels are available much cheaper, from £10. They all tend to be sold have two keys.
Thanks for the reply. My Switch is working fine. I just need to know where to grab the 12V from. ACC position or Ignition Position cable… So that the dbox gets 12v in acc position or ignition Position.
5A single headlight bulb 4A twin brake light bulbs 7A quiet horn 4A indicators *20A max. total*? No twin headlights or loud horn possible unless using led lights if I've understood correctly? Nothing in reserve for gauges & warning lights etc. & make before break will be required on front & rear lights?
Cheers, oh I hate electrics too, but was frustrated by having to use bike shops, so decided to teach myself a few years ago, mainly using YT etc. It really isn't that complicated, once you understand the basic principles. In the middle of wiring the Z650 with the D-Box at the moment. Will hopefully post a vid on doing that next week.
@@DKT1970 If you use the push button momentary contact buttons such as the Moto gadget M-switches, that will cut down the amount of wiring quite a lot. The D Box allows you to run the whole bike with just two such switches. I'm using just standard type switchgear on my Z650, as I already had them, so saved money.
There are better alternatives than either of these two. Personally, I prefer one with an app on my phone so that I can set the maximum load for each circuit individually, and change the settings at a later date if necessary.
Very helpful review
Good informative video, thank you for sharing.
very well explained
Hey Bevel Head, nice video. I am currently building enduro bike and want to use the D-box due to it being much more resistent to dirt and water compared to the m-unit. My question is if there is a simple way to integrate control lights for the oil switch or neutral switch for the dashboard? As far as I've seen the d-box only provides a control light for the indicators. Cheers!
The problem is that the oil pressure / neutral lights use a earth 'switch' on the engine which is is not controlled by the D box. The power to the idiot lights is controlled by the D Box when the ignition is turned on, but to complete the circuit/break the circuit is controlled by the switches on the engine.
Good morning, a question: As long as the battery negative is connected to the frame (wire from neg terminal to frame), then grounding anywhere on frame is sufficient?
yes
currently also debating a controlbox for my 1978 z650 the M Unit being pretty expensive i was looking for alternatives. Would be interested to see it on the bike or maybe even the installation process. Thanks for your video from the Netherlands.
I am making a vid of wiring the Z650 with the D Box at the moment, going ok so far. Hope to have it out this time next week. Just waiting for a couple of parts, such as the correct indicator stems.
@@Merch131ho awesome mine is a scrambler build but previous owners have made a right time mess of the wiring so about to pull everything out and also need to make a new battery tray/controllbox tray. Just had the carbs cleaned so she runs great will wait for your video. Have a great weekend there. Greetz, Leo
Hi. Do these boxes work/are programmable with a kick start only (no battery)? Or best to wire in a battery?
I have always used them with a battery, doubt they would work without, they need power before they would work. Don't know if turning over the engine with a kickstart would provide enough current to activate it, and so provide power to the coils and ignition..
Nice Video! I am currently doing this on my Sportster and asking myself where to grab 12V from the Ignition Lock/Switch: ignition position or acc position of the key? Thanks
HD ignition style switches with 3 positions are available on Ebay, while simple ignition barrels are available much cheaper, from £10. They all tend to be sold have two keys.
Thanks for the reply. My Switch is working fine. I just need to know where to grab the 12V from. ACC position or Ignition Position cable… So that the dbox gets 12v in acc position or ignition Position.
5A single headlight bulb
4A twin brake light bulbs
7A quiet horn
4A indicators
*20A max. total*?
No twin headlights or loud horn possible unless using led lights if I've understood correctly? Nothing in reserve for gauges & warning lights etc. & make before break will be required on front & rear lights?
The 20a limit is on the starter circuit only. not for everything.
That actually made perfect sense to me (I am an electric troglodyte). Thank you!
Cheers, oh I hate electrics too, but was frustrated by having to use bike shops, so decided to teach myself a few years ago, mainly using YT etc. It really isn't that complicated, once you understand the basic principles. In the middle of wiring the Z650 with the D-Box at the moment. Will hopefully post a vid on doing that next week.
@@Merch131ho yes I am in the middle of rewiring my Yam XS400 (also with the D-Box probably)
@@DKT1970 If you use the push button momentary contact buttons such as the Moto gadget M-switches, that will cut down the amount of wiring quite a lot. The D Box allows you to run the whole bike with just two such switches. I'm using just standard type switchgear on my Z650, as I already had them, so saved money.
I’m struggling fuckin much connecting this to my sportster, once key is on ignition position left turn signal starts blinking 😩
Have you programmed it yet? There are 9 yes or no inputs you need to make to set it up. What year XL is it?
Is 2004
There are better alternatives than either of these two. Personally, I prefer one with an app on my phone so that I can set the maximum load for each circuit individually, and change the settings at a later date if necessary.
What alternatives do you use?
@@Merch131ho Neutrino - link: czcams.com/video/gqhUfD5Vx4I/video.htmlfeature=shared
Dan Grassetti , the inventor, is a very amenable guy🕊️