Maan I wish you were in my area to do my tune up on my jeep liberty...but thanks for this 12yr old video. I got a 20yr liberty and just now took to get tune up...I just hope they did her right and changed all the plug even the difficult ones on passenger side.❤🤷🏾♀️
Thanks for a great video! There was YOU and another guy but the other guy was joking around too much! You were amusing but straight forward and good with details. I am working on my daughters Jeep and never worked on one but your right the Dodge Neon has the same kind of set up only 4 cylinders. Thanks again!
Thanks for posting this video. I changed my spark plugs today after watching it. I only had 57K on mine but they were down to practically nothing. My car was shuddering when I hit the gas so I was hoping it was only the plugs. I do have to say that the back plug on the left was a nightmare to get out. My car runs a lot better.
Thanks so much. I changed the plugs and got rid of a blinking engine light. Changing out a coolant res must have splash water on a couple of plugs/coil packs and it was causing a misfire according to the error codes. Running better now and now no light and no error codes.
One thing I like use is the anti-seize as you say but also on the coil side (or in some cases the wires) some type electro-silicone of some sort (often found in small packets at the store counter {for a quarters each in my day} ). This seems silly and a costly luxury but it helps connectivity on older vehicles very nicely. Semper Fi
This video was a lifesaver. I just change the factory spark plugs for the first time at 161,000 miles with some more NGK OEM plugs to be safe. I know I should have change them a while back but now I know 30,000 miles. Thanks again for the tutorial.
Thank you for the video. I just finished and my jeep actually runs alot better. I can drive with the AC on without it almost stalling. You made it super easy and thanks for calling out the nut sizes!
Thank you!!!! Thank you! Watched about 5-8 min and did all 6. Was very easy. Just FYI, try to keep tabs on the rubber gasket inside the spark plug socket. Mine left the gasket behind, panicked a little , but it came right back out with a little help. LOL.
Another quick point , I started using Dielectric grease on the inside of the spark plug boot many years back when my plugs were always fused to the boot and tear the wire apart when removing the plug from the boot .small investment high pay-back .Plus it helps keep moisture at bay .
THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO MY WIFE KEOT NAGGING ME TO DO IT BUT IT SEEMED TOO ADVANCED FOR ME SINCE I ONLY OWN OLDER JEEPS IT WAS CONFUSING SEEING THIS ENGINE.
Oh, and one more tip to watchers- This is my first Jeep product. Some (not all) of the wiring clips/plugs have a little red plastic piece. This is a 'lock'. gently with a screw driver, slide it back from connection. Then you still need to depress a tab to get plug loose and out. I didn't know what it was, haven't seen it before, and destroyed my first one. Luckily, it was merely to one of the horns. I just cut it off and abandoned it. (there are two horns?) If it would have happened on the engine with a sensor or control, I would have another day of wiring and repair!
Very well done. The only thing I do differently is using a torque wrench to do the final tightening of the plugs to 20ft/lbs. Like you said, you don't want to over torque them and strip them out.
My only suggestion is that once you initially unscrew the plug prior to completely removing the it is to blast a bit of air around the plug so as to remove any possible debris falling into the cylinder once the plug is completely removed. Just ensure you install the new one prior to moving onto the next plug so as not to leave a plug hole open. Other than that great job.
@ Millwrightman- Ubbertanker is correct. Jeep specifically states on the front of the engine and in the book that only ngk coppers should be used and changed every 30,000. Course others have used different brands, and many have used platinums, etc. However, if you go to any of the forums you will see many people have had issues with going against what the manufacturer says. I'm sure many haven't either.
Just an after thought. Jeep of that model ( as I have the same one ) requires NGK plugs as from factory. Use anti seize compound or you may have trouble changing them in future. Remove coolant reservoir and those pesky back plugs will be easy as rest of them. Owners manual requires changing at 35 thousand miles. Mine has 120 thousand and runs perfect
Can bad spark plugs or low fluids cause anything like this? I'm an idiot with cars and know I have never replaced or filled any fluids or ever given a tune up or changed oil:( I'm a bad car owner but really need help or need to know what to ask Pep Boys since I know they have not invested anytime trying to find the problem. Thanks so very much.
Millwrightman, wondering about that dielectric grease....on a coil pack would you still use that? Seems like it's a whole different thing with these compared to an old plug wire. Wondering how you would get that in the tiny coilpack opening on these? Would be interesting to know if worthwhile.
You should have used a little anti seize on the threads of the new spark plugs and also a dab of dielectric grease on the tip of the coil. I would also recommend blowing out the dust and dirt from spark plug before removing the old plug. This will keep any dirt or debris from falling into the cylinder head. If you don't have a compressor to blow out the debris then just use a shop vac wit the hose connected to the exhaust port.
great video...just make sure that when you change the plugs that the engine is "over night" cold !!!...otherwise removing the plugs might damage the aluminum threads in the heads....ask me how I know.
Not trying to start anything, just wanted people to know. Deathscouter, good video. I take the reservoir off for the last one on the back left, just because I don't want to strip those threads by accident. And it's pretty quick and painless to do. Recommend you always use anti seize, I've snapped an extension flush off at the socket on a really tight one. Not fun, down in those countersunk holes!!!
Actually , I changed my spark plugs at about 100 thousand miles , and the truck was running pretty good before I changed them , its the unleaded gas that lets them live longer , and they are available with platinum and other exotic materials that have better durability .My old high compression Mustang would go through a set ever 10,000 miles with high test Sunoco 260 gasoline to boot ..Now I have another hundred thousand so I,m thinking Iridium plugs for the remainder of its life , couple years
Did your jeep accelerate better by any chance after you changed everything? My jeep's acceleration gives out all the time and I'm trying to figure out the problem. I heard it could be the spark plugs.
Yes, I noticed better MPG and (perhaps in my mind) better throttle response. Over the course of all my repairs, the BEST repair I ever did for my car was changing out my O2 sensors and Catalytic converters (1 of which was rusted out and flipping a OBDC code). Changing out the sensors (after 180K miles) jumped me from about 17 MPG up to 21 MPG instantly.
+DeathScouter that's great. I should do that to my 03 jeep liberty limited 3.7 v6.. I get roughly 15.7 mpg... according to the sensor above the rear view mirror.
Hi. I'm a woman who knows so little about cars but I have taken my car to Pep Boys and they had completely forgotten about it and they apologized and said they would check it. It will start with a jump but then will not start if left for several hours. The battery seems to drain in no time and it is a new battery. Pep boys said they checked the starter, alternator and battery and they are ok. NOw they just say they can't help me. I asked if electrical was checked but never got an answer
Although, these are relatively new vehicles, 1st yr 2002, so unless it's a diesel, the unleaded gas is a moot point. Not trying to start anything, just want others to know what Jeep says to do. Might void your warranty, you'd have to check. Many forums out there, do the research then decide for yourself. These are really inexpensive-approx 3.50/piece or so, so even if you change them every 30,000 you could possible still be saving money vs the high priced ones, + gas mileage.
My 03 v6 jeep liberty is blowing oil smelling smoke from under the hood, on the right side of the engine, did oil change and valve cover gasket, it decreased the smoke 70% but still doing it Any ideas?? Please help :)
Ouch. If its actually puffing smoke, then you should be able to see where it's coming from. Valve cover gaskets are common failures so I'm glad to hear you were able to reduce it. Did you do both sides? Also, smelling "oil burn" under the hood could also be linked to a split/dry rot/or detached hose, specifically the one going to your PCV valve (I have a video on that). Make sure you change your PCV valve if it's been a while. A bad PCV valve can actually cause an "oil suck" out of the engine block and cause you to burn oil. For $7 and 2 minutes of labor... totally worth it! Other than that, without seeing the vehicle, I'm left to giving "basic" advice. Determine if your oil loss is INTERNAL or EXTERNAL. Do a very close inspection of your engine from above and below. See if you can find a visible oil leak. If your engine is greasy and grimy, I recommend a spray bottle with straight Simple Green or some Castrol purple degreaser. Spray EVERYTHING down really good and let it soak. Keep spraying to keep everything wet, then pressure wash it down (go to a self-serve car wash if you don't have a pressure washer). A warm engine will help with degreasing too. Once your engine compartment & block is clean, NOW you can look for a 'fresh' leak. If you have no visible leak, then your burn is internal. and may be anything from a worn gasket to a cracked or warped head. So now you need to inspect your anti-freeze and make sure no oil is in it. Hopefully your oil was "clean" (meaning, ONLY oil) when you did your oil change. Keep in touch, let me know what's going on.
DeathScouter I will definitely replace the pcv valve next!! I got good news no more visible smoke under the Hood!! Just a Lil smell , but it could be from old oil stuck around the block, I will clean it and follow your advices! ! No water in the oil change, but very old and low oil. previous owner didn't care I guess. It has 230,000 miles. After the Oil and drivers side valve cover gasket change, I can safely say no more smoke under hood. But after 1 week check engine light turned on. And gave me this codes : p0731, p0420, p0837,p0944. My question is which code do I fix first? Cause I think 1 of them my be Triggering the rest! I hope. What do u recomend? Thank you so much in advance for taking time to reply GBY ☺
Wow... busy weekend ahead for you and some pretty hefty codes. LOL Fortunately, there is some connection between the codes. The P0420 which MIGHT be tied to you burning a lot of oil and fouling up the O2 sensors and Cat. The P0944 is directly tied to the P0731 so fixing 1 MIGHT fix the others. Let's take them 1 by 1... OK, the P0731 code implies the previous owner changed the gears in the rear end (Do you have oversized tires on a Liberty???). If he changed the gears, he probably didn't have a programmer to tell the computer what the new gear ratio is. A dealer may do it for you for $100 or so. IF that's not the case (gear change), we'll have to look farther into that and figure out WTF is going on with that one. The P0420 is barking about your Cat and/or O2 sensors. If you were burning a lot of oil (and high mileage), I could totally understand this code popping up. Trust me, @ 230K miles and burning oil, they are full of soot and carbon and it's probably time to change the cats and the 02 sensors anyway. At the very least, changing them out will recover some MPG (mine went from 13 MPG back up to 19-21MPG after swapping both... you need to crawl under and see how badly the Cats are rusted out.) Interested to know what kind of MPG you're getting now. P0837 isn't uncommon. (Does your 4WD work? Have you used it lately to ensure each setting is working fine??) It's not uncommon on Liberty for the linkage going to the transfer case to get messed up (misaligned). Bushings pop out, cables stretch, etc... On top of your transfer case is an electrical connection. 1 - unplug it, clean it up with some spray wire/contact cleaner, and reconnect it. 2 - It's "technically" reporting that the 4WD mode switch is in an odd position. So while you're under the Libby, check the 4WD cable, linkage, etc going to the transfer case. As a test, you can disconnect the cable and manually push the shifter (4WD, not transmission) lever into each of the 2WD or 4WD positions and see if that fixes it. Codes don't clear instantly, so if you have a code reader, you will want to clear the codes and see if they return. Otherwise, force it into 2WD mode and leave it there for a while and see if the code eventually clears. OK - P0944. This one sucks the most. This is a transmission code. However, the service bulletins DO relate this to the P0731 about the gear ratio codes. Focus on the P0731 and this one may clear. Hope this gives you a starting point...
Without a rubber insert (inside the spark plug socket) you will have great difficulty pulling the spark plug up through the hole. You can TRY to loosen the spark plug with a standard socket and then push the coil pack back into place HOPING that it clicks onto the spark plug and then you can pull the plug up. My advice is that you spend a whopping $3 (even if it's on Harbor Freight junk tools) and get the right tool to make the job a lot easier.
haha "my god, where are the spark plugs" my thoughts exactly when i popped the hood of one of these jeeps. so glad there not on the sides like the chevy's they woulda been a bitch to get to
11 years later still extremely helpful. LOL’d at the hex socket to take air hose off, felt that, glad you got use out of it
after watching this video I feel like i can do anthing. Thanks so much
you make changing spark plugs so easy.
Maan I wish you were in my area to do my tune up on my jeep liberty...but thanks for this 12yr old video. I got a 20yr liberty and just now took to get tune up...I just hope they did her right and changed all the plug even the difficult ones on passenger side.❤🤷🏾♀️
Thanks for a great video! There was YOU and another guy but the other guy was joking around too much! You were amusing but straight forward and good with details. I am working on my daughters Jeep and never worked on one but your right the Dodge Neon has the same kind of set up only 4 cylinders. Thanks again!
Got a quote for $161.00 for this..
THANK YOU! You made it look easy and do-able, my friend and I was thinking about changing it ourselves to save $$$
Dude you are awesome! Changed plugs and coil packs today took no time and my jeep is purring again!
Thanks for the great feedback. KEEP JEEP'N !
Thanks for posting this video. I changed my spark plugs today after watching it. I only had 57K on mine but they were down to practically nothing. My car was shuddering when I hit the gas so I was hoping it was only the plugs. I do have to say that the back plug on the left was a nightmare to get out. My car runs a lot better.
Thanks so much. I changed the plugs and got rid of a blinking engine light. Changing out a coolant res must have splash water on a couple of plugs/coil packs and it was causing a misfire according to the error codes. Running better now and now no light and no error codes.
I'll give it a try tomorrow, I let you know. You explain in an easy way, looks so simple.
Thank you so much! I was able to change my spark plugs all by myself!! And Under an hour at that!
I wanted to say thank you for doing this video with it I was able to change my own spark plugs and saving me a lot of money!! Thank you so much!!
Thanks for the feedback. I'm glad it went well for you
One thing I like use is the anti-seize as you say but also on the coil side (or in some cases the wires) some type electro-silicone of some sort (often found in small packets at the store counter {for a quarters each in my day} ). This seems silly and a costly luxury but it helps connectivity on older vehicles very nicely. Semper Fi
Operation was a success! Thank you!
Gracias por el tutorial, fué de gran ayuda.
Thanks for the tutorial, it was a great help.
This video was a lifesaver. I just change the factory spark plugs for the first time at 161,000 miles with some more NGK OEM plugs to be safe. I know I should have change them a while back but now I know 30,000 miles. Thanks again for the tutorial.
Thanks for the positive words. I'm glad I can help.
+madehumble Changing at 161,000 were the plugs stuck or seized at all?
+Cody Mitchell No. Fortunately they came right out.
Thank you for the video. I just finished and my jeep actually runs alot better. I can drive with the AC on without it almost stalling. You made it super easy and thanks for calling out the nut sizes!
This might sound stupid but does the 2003 keep liberty have spark plug wires?
thank you for all your help great place to learn
+Brucedonna Bennett Thanks for the feedback.
Thank You very much for the Info. Have a Nice Life.......
Simple, straight to the point - thanx
Saved me big bucks to do my shade tree mechanic work !
Nice Job! You made simple and accurate
Thank you!!!! Thank you! Watched about 5-8 min and did all 6. Was very easy. Just FYI, try to keep tabs on the rubber gasket inside the spark plug socket. Mine left the gasket behind, panicked a little , but it came right back out with a little help. LOL.
I'm glad it worked out well for you. I always like getting good feedback
Another quick point , I started using Dielectric grease on the inside of the spark plug boot many years back when my plugs were always fused to the boot and tear the wire apart when removing the plug from the boot .small investment high pay-back .Plus it helps keep moisture at bay .
Thank you! This is what I will be doing this Saturday, lol. I appreciate the instruction!
THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO
MY WIFE KEOT NAGGING ME TO DO IT BUT IT SEEMED TOO ADVANCED FOR ME SINCE I ONLY OWN OLDER JEEPS IT WAS CONFUSING SEEING THIS ENGINE.
good job helped was a great help thank you
This is super quality diy video!!! Thanks. I'm watching all your ads, from beginning to end. Hope it helps you monetize :-)
Thanks a lot. I'm glad you found it helpful.
Yup! It is recommended for every vehicle to use. You can get it really cheap so it isn't to bad.
Thank you for this.
Oh, and one more tip to watchers- This is my first Jeep product. Some (not all) of the wiring clips/plugs have a little red plastic piece. This is a 'lock'. gently with a screw driver, slide it back from connection. Then you still need to depress a tab to get plug loose and out. I didn't know what it was, haven't seen it before, and destroyed my first one. Luckily, it was merely to one of the horns. I just cut it off and abandoned it. (there are two horns?) If it would have happened on the engine with a sensor or control, I would have another day of wiring and repair!
Very well done. The only thing I do differently is using a torque wrench to do the final tightening of the plugs to 20ft/lbs. Like you said, you don't want to over torque them and strip them out.
very informative video. Thank you.
Thank you for this video I could do my job
Great video, pretty easy job. But if your spark plug does not have the rubber gasket you can use a magnet.
Well done sir.
Could you post list of all tools needed?
are the cylinder numbers the same on the 2004? I need to change the plugs and the number 2 coil.... it`s throwing codes.
god tutorial ,,,thank you!
My only suggestion is that once you initially unscrew the plug prior to completely removing the it is to blast a bit of air around the plug so as to remove any possible debris falling into the cylinder once the plug is completely removed. Just ensure you install the new one prior to moving onto the next plug so as not to leave a plug hole open. Other than that great job.
That's good advice. Thank you for contributing.
Thanks for so great vedio! very helpful! Could you list all tools needed?
Thanks, helped a ton.
good job friends!!
Hey can you. Tell me about. Spark plug what type is good i waan. Buy to website eaby because im from saudi
@ Millwrightman- Ubbertanker is correct. Jeep specifically states on the front of the engine and in the book that only ngk coppers should be used and changed every 30,000. Course others have used different brands, and many have used platinums, etc. However, if you go to any of the forums you will see many people have had issues with going against what the manufacturer says. I'm sure many haven't either.
Just an after thought. Jeep of that model ( as I have the same one ) requires NGK plugs as from factory. Use anti seize compound or you may have trouble changing them in future. Remove coolant reservoir and those pesky back plugs will be easy as rest of them. Owners manual requires changing at 35 thousand miles. Mine has 120 thousand and runs perfect
Can bad spark plugs or low fluids cause anything like this? I'm an idiot with cars and know I have never replaced or filled any fluids or ever given a tune up or changed oil:( I'm a bad car owner but really need help or need to know what to ask Pep Boys since I know they have not invested anytime trying to find the problem. Thanks so very much.
Millwrightman, wondering about that dielectric grease....on a coil pack would you still use that? Seems like it's a whole different thing with these compared to an old plug wire. Wondering how you would get that in the tiny coilpack opening on these? Would be interesting to know if worthwhile.
You should have used a little anti seize on the threads of the new spark plugs and also a dab of dielectric grease on the tip of the coil. I would also recommend blowing out the dust and dirt from spark plug before removing the old plug. This will keep any dirt or debris from falling into the cylinder head. If you don't have a compressor to blow out the debris then just use a shop vac wit the hose connected to the exhaust port.
good video
great video...just make sure that when you change the plugs that the engine is "over night" cold !!!...otherwise removing the plugs might damage the aluminum threads in the heads....ask me how I know.
What size cube?
Thanks 🙏 DUDE!
Not trying to start anything, just wanted people to know. Deathscouter, good video. I take the reservoir off for the last one on the back left, just because I don't want to strip those threads by accident. And it's pretty quick and painless to do. Recommend you always use anti seize, I've snapped an extension flush off at the socket on a really tight one. Not fun, down in those countersunk holes!!!
that grease can be used on any electrical connection.
Am going to try this
Don't be afraid to spend the money on buying the right plugs. It should be pretty straight forward. Let us know how it goes.
Yes, he said it was not the no. one plug just the first he was working on..... actually, the drivers side three are 2, 4, & 6. Semper Fi
Actually , I changed my spark plugs at about 100 thousand miles , and the truck was running pretty good before I changed them , its the unleaded gas that lets them live longer , and they are available with platinum and other exotic materials that have better durability .My old high compression Mustang would go through a set ever 10,000 miles with high test Sunoco 260 gasoline to boot ..Now I have another hundred thousand so I,m thinking Iridium plugs for the remainder of its life , couple years
Exelente
Thanks boss
Well,anyone have the OEM NGK number??
thanks
i nned to change mine,130,000 km
Gef
Do i have to disconect the batery cables before doing this job?
No you do not.
What is the proper gap for the new plugs?
+LesterElm1 The gap on most quality plugs are preset.
Hello sir,
I have too, jeep liberty kj v6 3,7 L at Jakarta
May i ask where the located the engine and chassis Number?
Thanks sir
man thanks,
Did your jeep accelerate better by any chance after you changed everything? My jeep's acceleration gives out all the time and I'm trying to figure out the problem. I heard it could be the spark plugs.
Yes, I noticed better MPG and (perhaps in my mind) better throttle response. Over the course of all my repairs, the BEST repair I ever did for my car was changing out my O2 sensors and Catalytic converters (1 of which was rusted out and flipping a OBDC code). Changing out the sensors (after 180K miles) jumped me from about 17 MPG up to 21 MPG instantly.
Thanks so much for the reply.
+DeathScouter that's great. I should do that to my 03 jeep liberty limited 3.7 v6.. I get roughly 15.7 mpg... according to the sensor above the rear view mirror.
New plugs and new O2 sensors will recover any lost MPG.
Hi. I'm a woman who knows so little about cars but I have taken my car to Pep Boys and they had completely forgotten about it and they apologized and said they would check it. It will start with a jump but then will not start if left for several hours. The battery seems to drain in no time and it is a new battery. Pep boys said they checked the starter, alternator and battery and they are ok. NOw they just say they can't help me. I asked if electrical was checked but never got an answer
Although, these are relatively new vehicles, 1st yr 2002, so unless it's a diesel, the unleaded gas is a moot point. Not trying to start anything, just want others to know what Jeep says to do. Might void your warranty, you'd have to check. Many forums out there, do the research then decide for yourself. These are really inexpensive-approx 3.50/piece or so, so even if you change them every 30,000 you could possible still be saving money vs the high priced ones, + gas mileage.
My 03 v6 jeep liberty is blowing oil smelling smoke from under the hood, on the right side of the engine, did oil change and valve cover gasket, it decreased the smoke 70% but still doing it
Any ideas??
Please help :)
Ouch. If its actually puffing smoke, then you should be able to see where it's coming from. Valve cover gaskets are common failures so I'm glad to hear you were able to reduce it. Did you do both sides? Also, smelling "oil burn" under the hood could also be linked to a split/dry rot/or detached hose, specifically the one going to your PCV valve (I have a video on that). Make sure you change your PCV valve if it's been a while. A bad PCV valve can actually cause an "oil suck" out of the engine block and cause you to burn oil. For $7 and 2 minutes of labor... totally worth it!
Other than that, without seeing the vehicle, I'm left to giving "basic" advice. Determine if your oil loss is INTERNAL or EXTERNAL. Do a very close inspection of your engine from above and below. See if you can find a visible oil leak. If your engine is greasy and grimy, I recommend a spray bottle with straight Simple Green or some Castrol purple degreaser. Spray EVERYTHING down really good and let it soak. Keep spraying to keep everything wet, then pressure wash it down (go to a self-serve car wash if you don't have a pressure washer). A warm engine will help with degreasing too. Once your engine compartment & block is clean, NOW you can look for a 'fresh' leak. If you have no visible leak, then your burn is internal. and may be anything from a worn gasket to a cracked or warped head. So now you need to inspect your anti-freeze and make sure no oil is in it. Hopefully your oil was "clean" (meaning, ONLY oil) when you did your oil change. Keep in touch, let me know what's going on.
DeathScouter
I will definitely replace the pcv valve next!!
I got good news no more visible smoke under the Hood!! Just a Lil smell , but it could be from old oil stuck around the block, I will clean it and follow your advices! !
No water in the oil change, but very old and low oil. previous owner didn't care I guess.
It has 230,000 miles.
After the Oil and drivers side valve cover gasket change, I can safely say no more smoke under hood.
But after 1 week check engine light turned on.
And gave me this codes : p0731, p0420, p0837,p0944.
My question is which code do I fix first?
Cause I think 1 of them my be Triggering the rest! I hope.
What do u recomend?
Thank you so much in advance for taking time to reply GBY ☺
Wow... busy weekend ahead for you and some pretty hefty codes. LOL Fortunately, there is some connection between the codes. The P0420 which MIGHT be tied to you burning a lot of oil and fouling up the O2 sensors and Cat. The P0944 is directly tied to the P0731 so fixing 1 MIGHT fix the others. Let's take them 1 by 1...
OK, the P0731 code implies the previous owner changed the gears in the rear end (Do you have oversized tires on a Liberty???). If he changed the gears, he probably didn't have a programmer to tell the computer what the new gear ratio is. A dealer may do it for you for $100 or so. IF that's not the case (gear change), we'll have to look farther into that and figure out WTF is going on with that one.
The P0420 is barking about your Cat and/or O2 sensors. If you were burning a lot of oil (and high mileage), I could totally understand this code popping up. Trust me, @ 230K miles and burning oil, they are full of soot and carbon and it's probably time to change the cats and the 02 sensors anyway. At the very least, changing them out will recover some MPG (mine went from 13 MPG back up to 19-21MPG after swapping both... you need to crawl under and see how badly the Cats are rusted out.) Interested to know what kind of MPG you're getting now.
P0837 isn't uncommon. (Does your 4WD work? Have you used it lately to ensure each setting is working fine??) It's not uncommon on Liberty for the linkage going to the transfer case to get messed up (misaligned). Bushings pop out, cables stretch, etc... On top of your transfer case is an electrical connection. 1 - unplug it, clean it up with some spray wire/contact cleaner, and reconnect it. 2 - It's "technically" reporting that the 4WD mode switch is in an odd position. So while you're under the Libby, check the 4WD cable, linkage, etc going to the transfer case. As a test, you can disconnect the cable and manually push the shifter (4WD, not transmission) lever into each of the 2WD or 4WD positions and see if that fixes it. Codes don't clear instantly, so if you have a code reader, you will want to clear the codes and see if they return. Otherwise, force it into 2WD mode and leave it there for a while and see if the code eventually clears.
OK - P0944. This one sucks the most. This is a transmission code. However, the service bulletins DO relate this to the P0731 about the gear ratio codes. Focus on the P0731 and this one may clear.
Hope this gives you a starting point...
www.autocodes.com/uploads/chrysler/21-007-06.pdf
Service bulletin
Here's a video about gears slipping in the trans to cause the codes you have. A bit advanced, but insightful.
czcams.com/video/FePWUkZXZyY/video.html
como pudo checar el overdrai no me funciona siagie me pude desi se lo agradeseria grasias
de una libeerti 2003
go to the dealer and ask them to do a altenator output test and a heavy load test
Dodge engine best plug ....Champion spark plugs.
What if I don't have a work plug socket
Without a rubber insert (inside the spark plug socket) you will have great difficulty pulling the spark plug up through the hole. You can TRY to loosen the spark plug with a standard socket and then push the coil pack back into place HOPING that it clicks onto the spark plug and then you can pull the plug up. My advice is that you spend a whopping $3 (even if it's on Harbor Freight junk tools) and get the right tool to make the job a lot easier.
Wow, 160k? You should have changed @ 50k and very least 100k depending on plugs!
the fire order he says is not correct. #1 is driver side #2 is passenger side. so on and so forth
Correct, moving from the front of the car backward
haha "my god, where are the spark plugs" my thoughts exactly when i popped the hood of one of these jeeps. so glad there not on the sides like the chevy's they woulda been a bitch to get to
your suposed to change them every 30k not 160k because they come factory with copper core plugs
LOL Try saving $95.00- $130.00 per hour, that's what mechanics get here in Phoenix, AZ.
Hey can you. Tell me about. Spark plug what type is good i waan. Buy to website eaby because im from saudi