FREE MOD to your Scooter's Variator (Part 1/2).
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2015
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The Polini variator for the Honda Ruckus/Zoomer/Metropolitan/Jazz is agreeably one of the best variator upgrade on the market. It allows for a lot more top speed at a much lower RPM. However, there are a few mods and tricks you could do to it to make it even better and well-suited for your Honda Ruckus. While many people insist that a rubber seal does not create enough resistance to matter, on a 49cc every little modification counts. Notice on motoGP bikes, rubber seals on the front forks are removed for that exact reason. "Stiction" is a small but significant resistance. For people looking for utmost performance from their Honda Ruckus equipped with the polini variator, this mod would be beneficial receiving both improved acceleration (and deceleration) responses as well as minor improvement to top speed.
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I would have thought and, this comes from my own experience of working on various bike engines, the seal will significantly looser after a period of "wearing in" and won't be as tight as you see here for very long but will still do as good a job of keeping grease in and crud out so I would keep it.
Pollini designed the rotor with the seal for a purpose and I for one would defer to their superior knowledge!
That's a valid point, one which I considered also until I learned that other model bikes share the same part. That is, this polini variator is not specific to the Honda Ruckus. Some people have speculated that the seal is therefore designed for other bikes where grease is required.
With that said, two other points were considered. First, Honda OEM variators did not come with a seal and second, Honda does not recommend applying any lubrication to the variator. Polini instructions also does not recommend the application of lubricants for the Honda Ruckus. Those reasons encouraged me to remove the rubber seal and the results were positive, although negligible. Would I do it again? If I had a lot of spare time or if I am pushing limits to achieve the maximum speeds out of the Honda Ruckus, maybe. Otherwise, I think it is not worth the effort.
Removing this Oring makes no sence. And wil not make any better results on your scooter.
Do you have evidence to support that statement? Because I found 0-25mph times increased by 0.2 seconds. Repeatable and replicable.
Those 0.2 seconds faster is wind related. Have nothing to do with the oring. That Oring is there for dust not getting in between the bushing and the vario. You just broke your vario with your fake tuning.
10 repeated measures before/after on the same stretch of road (on a different day with minor fluctuations in temperature that wasn't statistically significant), the overall difference in average acceleration times was 0.2 seconds. Agreeably I can not account for EVERY variables, but most of them were controlled for. In conclusion, the 0.2 seconds may very well be differences due to other variables but regardless this data is a lot useful that either one of your comments stating pure speculations why it wouldn't work with no support.
Yup I used to have the same kind of Polini variator with a bushing like that for my Yamaha BWS/Booster/Zuma. In the meantime I'm using a Stage6 ceramic coated variator which doesn't have a rubber bushing. I became aware in recent times that due to the fact that the Stage6 variator uses a slightly larger and longer boss (shaft) than the Polini variator does, this is keeping the belt from travelling all the way out on both the variator and cooling pulley leaving then an unmarked track of around 0,6 or 0,7cm around the edge of both parts meaning that the engine is not reaching it's top speed.The belt is sitting perfectly on the speed drive's pulleys though. I will remove the rubber bushing from the old Polini variator so that it's ready to be installed since it has a shorter boss in case a couple things I got going on end up not bringing the expected results...
The bushing is just a guide for the variator to slide in and out
DUDE THE BUSHING HELPS THE VARIATOR TO NAT PLAY AFTER LONG USE 😂😂
You are supposed to add a little bit grease onto the boss, the o-ring is meant to prevent the grease coming out. The o-ring will settle to perfect fit in a few hundred km. If you are not using a thin layer of grease, you don't need the o-ring.
No, no grease permitted on the crankshafts as per Honda specs.
In the scooter tuning world, Polini parts are often called "teenager proof." Here is an example of the extent they would go to prevent those who over-grease their variators from experiencing belt slip.
I USED MIXED 10G AND 17G ROLLERS JUST NOW AND NOTHING AFTER UPGRADE OF THE VARIATOR WHICH I TOOK OFF A BIT OF METAL WITH A DRILL SET NOW IT CAN GO TO 80KM/H . FUK SHIT ADVICES YE ALL GIVE
thanks
it should inprove things a little as the stock ramps do not go as high so in the new one the ramps go higher allowing the waights to go higher and the variator to open more giving a better top speed. I would try some sliders in the unit and try different wights as you need to tune it to your wight and each bike is different for each rider.
+vorkev1 Vorkev is right. The Polini benefits from a longer ramp. This means the rollers sit closer to center at low speeds (more acceleration) and farther from the center at high speeds (more top speed) compared to the stock variator. As he said, the variator weights depends largely on how you want your bike to perform after considering numerous factors...one of them being your weight. Use the engine RPM to determine what weight suits you and your condition best.
Just use dry graphite on the bushing. Honda metropolitan is the other scoot this fits.
Hi i have a sym hd 300, with polini variator , 14g gram, an d free dna filter. 0-100 very fast, but then drop, also max speed comes vary vary later and at 8,200 rpm What mod would you suggest, ??
That rubber you cut out was to help grease stay in the bushing not centrifugally thrown out all over belt. I'm sure ur running it dry anyway so won't matter much. In your case.
braxton barrett if you reference the Honda workshop manual, it specifically states not to apply grease. In your case, what grease are you referring to?
The old path...nice video...God bless...
Thank you for watching
What carburetor would you recommend I get for my 2008 Yamaha Zuma that pairs well with a Polini 72cc big bore kit and a Stage 6 Pro Replica exhaust? Also what jet would be best suited for this setup? Right now my Zuma is completely stock and I'm only looking for a top speed of 45 mph (72-73 km/h for you guys).
Sorry I have no experience with minarelli engines/big bores to help you out there. A top speed of 45mph should be easily achievable on the stock motor with just a few minor upgrades like mine.
I know this is an old vid, the rubber gasket does serve a purpose; The polini variators use bronze bushings that ride on the boss. Bronze bushings are oil-impregnated. They are self-lubricating, and they don't sling oil everywhere, as it's in the microscopic pores of the bronze alloy itself. If belt dust gets between the steel boss and the bronze bushing, those pores get clogged, and the bronze's self lubricating properties will not work as well. The rubber seal is still pretty tight after two years on mine. Realize that the force exerted by the roller weights and belt tension are what make the variator slide, a little gasket won't do much of anything to stop it. if anything, it reduces slop, reduces CVT noise and ensures the bronze bushing doesn't get fouled. Even a 2hp 50cc engine will produce more power than your hand when it comes to pushing that drive face in and out. to the engine, there is no resistance. if anything, it will hold the low gear a hair longer as you build up revs, which isn't really a bad thing.
Those are all great points. In response, the original Honda variator is also an oil-impregnated bronze bushing that does not require lubrication. However, it does not have the rubber seal which suggests that the maintenance concerns you've raised are negligible.
You also made a good point about the o-ring friction being negligible. I do agree with you, the improvements after cutting the o-ring was not significant. However, the same argument could be had for motogp race bikes having their wheel bearing o-rings removed to reduce friction, and fork o-rings removed to reduce stiction. It's more for fun than practicality to eek out as much performance as possible on this little 50cc.
@@FIFTYmil I get where you're coming from; I use a Polini variator on a Kymco 50cc, it's a marked improvement, even with that o-ring in there. the factory variator on my scooter had a steel bushing, and it chewed up the boss pretty fast. the roller weights mine came with were 6.9 gram rollers, I swapped them for 6 gram Dr. pulley weights (not sliders, although I've tried them) that, paired with a 2000 rpm contra spring, gates belt and cleaning/re-greasing the clutch pulley with hi-temp bearing grease yielded the best performance; this is after trying lots of different weight and spring combos. I liked the off the line acceleration of lighter weights, but it would suffer at top-end and was slower up hills. factory weights are 6.5 gram I believe. different factors decide what works best for a given setup or environment.
but is it supposed to spin ? my ramp plate has splines that fit on the crank . so it cant spin, just with it . In and out is the only way it moves .
No it does not spin on the bushing. The Variator slides in and out on the pushing to constantly change the gear ratio by raising or lowering the belt.
no thats not the part im lookin for i need what gose in front of variator with the cooling fins drive face
hey, where is part 2 and 3?!
+Danny Linh Glad you asked! It is in the making now. The snow is finally gone here in Canada and the roads are being cleaned up from salt and gravel. The bikes are coming out as we speak!
The variator does not spin on that bushing, the bushing spins along with the variator plate
The variator slides in and out of that bushing to move the belt
The o ring is purely to keep grease inside the variator and off the part that the belt touches,
Certainly for people who tend to over-grease their part which represents the majority of teenager first learning how to tune (which also tends to be scooters). In fact, Honda specifically mention not to grease the variator in the workshop manual so it would be counter-intuitive why anyone would add grease in the first place.
In the case where grease isn't the issue, removal of the rubber o-ring enhances belt transition delivering marginal, but noticeable increase in response. O-rings have many applications, such as within wheel bearings and as dust seals for suspension. Notice in racing such as motogp, all of these o-rings are removed.
can this polini variator work for a Peugeot ludix blaster lc model??
I believe this is the correct model for the ludix 50 affiliate link: goo.gl/t2FVnb or you can also purchase the entire kit here at this affiliate link: goo.gl/GZ7J4O
ok thnks
As i know Polini Variator have lubrication system thats why the pin have a hole or maybe this rubber could be a safety in case the belt broke so the variator won't hit the front pulley.. Anyway personally i trust Polini i bet it was there for a reason
Correct, this variator fits other bike models where oil lubbrication may contaminate the variator.
bushing will wear down really quickly to allow free movement...
True
Good point. Results were negligible
Can anyone tell if i can rig up my drive face the front one. Im poor at this time. I got a new one but 20 after putting it on it spon the teeth off. Can i rig it
Sorry I don't understand what you mean by rig up.
They are not the same at all. The degree of the roller slide is deeper to keep rpm high. And the degree of the belt ramp is also different
What "they" are you referring to?
I’m pretty sure after a couple miles it would’ve broke in and moved more freely after ride
the oil seal keeps grease from getting on to the belt, you can remove it just by prying it with a flat screw driver
I am highly skeptical regarding your statement. Make a video of yourself prying the o-ring off a polini variator.
oil from where?? the closest is behing the crankshaft seal .....
@@martinst-pierre8074 u get roller Grease grom polini if u buy a variator kit
The seal I'd to keep Grease off the belt, so the bushing can be greased slightly, it wipes the grease off as the variator moves, any speed is wishful thinking, by removing the seal, I use a dry film, ceramic lube on my variator bushings and slider weights, and anything inside the case around the belt, that is possible, it works well, and can not get on the belt, I even use it on the clutch, and in the locks on the keys, its water repellent also, and it's cheap! I would keep the seal, and put a thin film of grease on the bushing and pin, the grease will help keep the bushing cool, but there isn't that much heat build up, it does get in the 200°f range, or can! There is slot if force generated by the weights at operating speeds, enough the belts can break at 12-14k rpm, and basically explode the belts , but that's over time, so the little seal isn't going to make any difference in speed, filing the pin, shortening it a bit will get some top speed, but be sure the ramp plate isn't over extend, allowing the belt to ride up the pulley higher, but the best thing is a gear swap, and re tune the variator, Stiller spring in the rear, with heavier weights, to counter the spring pressure, with stiffer clutch springs, I been all through this stuff lately, and it's best to buy the variator kit, instead of pieces, unless anything other than just the weights, clutch springs, if changing the clutch and pulleys and all that, the kit is better idea, because it's all matched, and much easier to tune! It may be a high price upfront, but save time and money tuning,
Good reading. The seal was really meant for other scooters that shared the same polini product.
hey!
I've got a 4stroke 2015 Aerox which also has the polini variator. Currently tops out at around 66-70km/h flat with 5.75G weights. Do you think that removing the oring would be in any help in reaching just a little bit more top and acceleration?
A tiny bit improvement was what I found but probably not what you're looking for. What RPM do you see at max speed?
I don't have a Rpm guage on it so it's sort of difficult to see :S The stock variator has no o-ring.
Its a good idea to get one now for $5-7 dollars. My other video illustrates how to install it.
Do you reckon it would make any difference at all? I mean since the stock variator has no o-ring it shouldn't be able to get any worse if i remove the o-ring on the polini variator, right?
That was my conclusion too but you could always give it a try. A tachometer on the other hand tells you exactly how your engine and transmission is performing -whether there is room for improvement. I've tuned for almost two years without one and was surprised how much more room for improvement there was after installing the gauge
How much faster does it go with the Polini Variator?
+ZiCWe The polini variator makes the honda ruckus faster by two main methods: 1) Provide a lower gearing-for slightly better acceleration 2) Provide a higher gearing -for better top speed
Both of these are done primarily by modification to the ramps where the variator rollers travel.
For top speed, however, that is really dependent on the horsepower your engine is putting down so it's hard to say. With my modified engine, I was able to achieve 55mph for the highest record (and at the sacrifice of some acceleration).
+FIFTYmil Thanks for the info you was fast as a serpent to replay! one last question will the polini work with sliders instead of roller? Cheers
ZiCWe If only my scooter was that fast too! The polini absolutely works with sliders. That's what I'm using too. Hope that helps and please like & subscribe!
+FIFTYmil Thanks! ill leave a like and a subscribe for amazing vids and help
ZiCWe Thanks very much. Remember to check out my other video on how to install slider weights if you need help
The variator does not spin on the bushing....
And your point is.......
Lol
LOL
@@FIFTYmil there is no reason to remove it as the variator does not spin over the bushing
@@otto-pd3xv Not once in the video was it mentioned that removing the bushing improves spin. That was implied by you?
i ben lookin its a hard part to find
i got a 2015 ruckus i put a yoshi pip on it jet carb air intake cdi and polini variator cost 1000$ i got up to 50 mph on a down hill cant even brake 40 on up hill the bike is still slow so be carfull cause it could cost you lots of $ to get your 50cc engine to do what a 450$ gy6 can do
There's definitely some truth in that a 2-stroke and a 150cc gy6 both puts out a lot more horsepower than the stock Ruckus engine. But for $1000 I'm surprised it's still performing like that! I was able to hit 47mph on flat roads even with just a $7 roller weight change on my ruckus before anything else! How much do you weigh if you don't mind me asking?
So around wat rpm should i be looking for i cant hit 50mph unless going downhill. I have polini variator with 6.5 sliders and i hit 45mph in flats no problem
+Danny Vazquez
Danny, it really depends as every bike has slightly different power. Especially with the ruckus where 1hp accounts for nearly a 25% hp difference. However, in my case I hit 50mph at around 9700RPM -Thats because I specifically tuned my bike for acceleration. Lower RPM 50mph can be realized with a taller gearing setup.
+FIFTYmil so you changed the gears in ur cvt as well? I just want to be able to cruise around 50 mph i would like acceleration if possible but like you said every ruckus is different.
+Danny Vazquez no I did not change my final gears but cruising at 50mph is not going to be a reality on a four stroke 50cc unless you gain significant horsepower
+FIFTYmil so what mods you have that ur cruising over 50mph?
Danny Vazquez I have never "cruised" over 50mph per se. It would be wide open throttle all the way to achieve that!
The purpose of that o ring is to seal the grease so it wont touch the belt..
Greasing is not recommended as per honda's workshop manual.
@@FIFTYmil owrayt ty..
@@euridemotovlog116 Sorry I don't understand what that means.
I'm thinking about picking up one of these for my 09 Honda Metro.
I weight about 175, just took out the restrictor and I'm hitting about 40-42 on flats.
How much of an increase will the Polini Variator give me on the total MPH? And how much will acceleration increase?
With transmission (ie. variator) tuning, not everyone gets the same result and that is because of slight variance in engine horsepower across the same bikes due to different altitudes, temperature, etc. For some people it is equivalent to adding a 6th gear to a car when the car's engine can't handle 5th gear. The potential is there but not realized because the engine is underpowered is certain conditions such as when oxygen content is low.
On a honda metro, depending on the RPM you're seeing during acceleration, you might find improved speeds and acceleration with just a $6 roller weight change to a lighter setup. Alternatively, if you're too light you might hit the rev limiter. Can you tell me what RPM you see while acceleration and at max speed 40-42mph (Im assuming GPS verified? As the stock speedometer is known to be inaccurate at those speeds)
Where is the result ??
Hey sorry I've been busy but I'll upload another video shortly on the result. So far so good I must say. No negative effects (but also not a huge night and day improvement). Acceleration is where most of the improvement was found
i wanna get a high accrleration even if i have to sucrifice top speed what shall i do
Lighter weights, stiffer compression Spring or stiffer clutch springs would be a good start to tuning
علاوي المحمداوي a
Hi bro i have 155cc scooter with max torque of 13.8 N.m @ 6,250 rpm and max power of 11.1kW / 8,000 rpm. What is the best roller weight to have better top speed??
What is the weight of the current rollers you have and what RPM do you see while accelerating?
FIFTYmil 11x6 accelerate start in 3000rpm bro
Thats with 1500rpm clutch and center springs
Good but what rpm do you see accelerating from, for example, 20km/h to 90km/h?
20km-4000rpm / 90km around 7,500rpm
where can i buy an after market one do you know
You could find the polini variators at this affiliate link here (lowest price I could find) goo.gl/VnRD2M
@@FIFTYmil ได้ที่
it spins together vith the bushing
That's not the point of this video though was it?
You dont understand
The variator spins WITH the bushing/boss, it doesnt spin ON it 😂
It slides in and out so removing this rubber oring shouldnt give you any gains. Your theory on removing it and having the "variator spin freely" makes no sense at all.
@@jtabilisma503 exactly so! 😊
Where's Part 2?
Sorry there wasn't really much content worth updating so part 2 was never made. So far its been working good!
figure this, after 100 miles i bet itll spin freely due to wear on the rubber
Nope. After 200+ miles it did not spin freely, hence the modification.
@@FIFTYmil then may be 500 miles, but it will.
@@krollpeter We can always speculate, but maybe not.
did it improve performance
+Lawrence Co Yes it did. While top speed is not significantly improved by this modification, acceleration significantly and repeatedly increased ~200-300RPM across the entire speedo. This suggests there is less resistance acting against the sliders/rollers and engine while accelerating. In short, you will experience slightly improved acceleration with this mod.
Good questions asked by a fellow scooter rider:
"I got your email address from your youtube channel.
Watched a few of your videos.
I recently purchased a new ruckus (2015 model) - as it stands right now its 100% stock. It’s got literally got 50kilometers on it after riding it a couple of times. (I’m in Canada).
I’d like to get a bit more speed out of it and from reading through comments on your videos it looks like you’ve been very helpful and knowledgeable in this area so I was hoping you could give me a couple of suggestions.
I’m just looking for the best bang for my buck, I don’t really have a target mph that I want to achieve, it’s just a bit too slow. I’m 215lbs and it only does around 37 or 38mph on flat ground. (It might do a bit more than that on a nice day, It’s been very windy the past few days)
I’d like to get it up to maybe 45mph or so if its not too much work.
One thing I should mention is I really do not want to do anything that will sacrifice reliability. I’ve seen you mention an intake mod of some sort that made a big different but I’m not sure what it was exactly, and also the variator.
Could you recommend maybe your top 3 biggest performance impacting mods you would recommend for someone like me who just wants to keep it simple and reliable?
Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
J.M"
JM-Thank you for the email. To begin with, any if not all modifications you do to the ruckus will reduce the longevity of the bike and/or reliability. Keep in mind that if you want your ruckus to go faster, you will make it work harder and consequently, there will be more wear and tear. Regardless, these little engines are built to last and that's the whole reason you probably went with Honda from the start. At 215lbs, your ruckus is more or less carrying the maximum load suggested by Honda. Evidently the top speed will not be that easy to improve. There are a few tricks you could do to improve the acceleration however. They are listed below:
1) Slider (and lighter) weights $10- Honda determines the roller weights with fuel efficiency and longevity in mind. This mod would increase fuel consumption slightly and I would recommend changing the engine oil a bit earlier than recommended. Slider weights have a unique profile compared to stock roller weights. They effectively provide a lower-low gear and a higher-high gear. This means more acceleration and more top speed. Lighter weights will unlock more acceleration and somewhat more top speed by allowing your engine to operate at a higher rpm. Try 5 grams for starters. If it is a significant improvement, you can try 4.5Gs to see if you can unlock more acceleration and top speed.
www.ebay.com/itm/281408810111?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&var=580435590986&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Your biggest obstacle here would be the stock RPM limiter. If you go too light of a weight, the engine would keep hitting the RPM limiter and you would not be able to improve acceleration or top speed.
2) Therefore it would be a good idea to invest in a tachometer $8
www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-Engine-Tach-Tachometer-Hour-Meter-Inductive-for-Motorcycle-Motor-CY-/301780275544?hash=item4643819158:g:cowAAOSwL7VWh0Yv&vxp=mtr
A tachometer would greatly help tune the bike to your specific needs by letting you know exactly what RPM the engine is operating at.
3) Polini Variator $60- The polini variator is designed to further give you a lower-low gear and a higher-high gear by modifying the ramps where the variator weights go. This would give you more acceleration and top speed (but will also require re-tuning the correct variator weight). If acceleration to 40-42mph is all you're after, A better variator would be the KN-Kikaku variator that has been proven to significantly improve acceleration (but not so much top speed). The Polini variator, on the otherhand is designed for top speeds well over 50mph. Accordingly acceleration is slightly sacrificed.
Note: The ruckus engine really makes the most power at ~8000-9800RPM. Unfortunately, Honda limits the engine RPM to ~8850. The above modification involves using lighter weights to let the engine work closer in that range. For example, if you're currently accelerating your max speed at 4500-5000RPM, by using lighter weights it would instead let you accelerate at 6700-7500RPM. In that case, you are putting more power into the transmission and therefore the rear wheel.
Your goal is to use the heaviest weight possible to operate at the engine's peak horsepower (8000-9800RPM). Doing so allows each variator weight to provide the greatest force to push the belt up for the best acceleration and top speed.
Regardless, you could do all sorts of modification to the transmission including the method 1 and 3 above, but if your engine is lacking power, no amount of transmission modification will make your ruckus go faster, especially for top speed.
4) Therefore for myself, I would recommend air intake modification. (Depending on your setup $10-$60) This includes a new filter installed onto the OEM snorkel or a radiator hose and correctly re-jetting the carburetor. This is by far the best method to provide more air and fuel to the engine which equates to more power.
5) Finally, you would soon realize either from your tach or from riding that you always hitting your engine RPM limit and you will not be able go any faster in terms of top speed (and/or acceleration). That is when you may consider investing in a NCY CDI. These CDI's unrestricts the engine and allow engine RPM to go all the way until the engine self destruct. As said earlier, you could be going all the way to 9800RPM and still be making more power. After that, most of the power drops off as seen on the dyno graphs. The CDI also advances the ignition timing to slightly increase torque/HP. At this point I would recommend using premium fuel if you haven't already done so to avoid undetectable engine knocking.
might sell my ruckus and get a grom
Not a bad idea at all! Both bikes are awesome
i noticed yesterday that my drive face is cracked what would cause that to much heat or tork?
Did you overtorque your variator when reinstalling it?
after all the $ i spent i think it would have ben beter for me to get a gy6 id rather do 50 mph at half throtle that wot
Absolutely that's one way to do it but then again, why not just start off with a gy6 bike in the beginning instead of a Honda ruckus?
I feel learning how to tune with the stock GET will only benefit you once you swap.
You have just ruined the grease seal on your variation, it dose not spin on the shsft but only slides in and out as the weights move
Polyni is for the short, but it's for the long
Sorry I don't understand.
Doubt that'll make it any faster
Small but noticeable improvement in response upshift and downshift transitions.
@@FIFTYmil exactly! It’s the small improvements 😎
Seal helps keep lube off the belt
Perhaps for a different bike but both the Polini manual and the Honda Ruckus service manual instructs not to apply lubricants to the variator bushing.
when you compare polini and malossi ups head to head...youl never buy polini again...cylinder,variator etc etc
Is that true? The particular polini product was very well made, better than the original honda one. I'd love to compare it with a malossi.
@@FIFTYmil its not that polini is bad,but when you compare with malossi finish,compare the bbk,the multivar vs the hi speed,its not on par
That bushing is pinched in place and actually rotates with the variator assembly, this “Mod” changes nothing. The people who claimed this made their scooter faster are F.O.S. and clearly don’t understand how CVT works.
ACH-2 Who even said this mod affects rotation? People who replies without understanding the video are definitely F.O.S. and clearly lacks comprehension skills #smh
FIFTYmil lol you’re kidding right? You get into this within the first 60 seconds and continue. Watch your own video! “#smh”
ACH-2 again, where does the video say this mod let’s your driven face spin freely on the bushing thereby increase performance? #hopeless #allfaithinhumanitylostb#unoriginalhashtags #smhlvl100000
You just get belt dust in your variator..
That has not been proven to be the truth yet 5000km later.
@FIFTYmil tested his hypothesis that by removing the bushing it creates less friction and he experienced an increase in acceleration. He mentioned that the bushing is used by other scooters where lubrication is required but for the Ruckus, Honda says do not lubricate and does not have a bushing on factory variator's. The only negative effect I can think of would be the belt dust from normal wear and tear getting into the variator but if you are cleaning every 5000km like he mentioned you won't have any gunk problems. I'm getting my variator in the mail today, I plan on cutting the bushing and cleaning my Ruckus like Honda says. I've read that the factory belts are of poorer quality and may make more dust than if you replace the belt with a new Kevlar belt. So here's what i'll say, If you don't want to pay the extra $30 bucks for a new belt that should run cleaner then leave the bushing on but you may experience slightly less acceleration than if you remove it.
Thank you. I often run the Ruckus without the transmission cover, in fact, and therefore hardly any belt dust collects inside. A small correction - the OEM ruckus belt is not poor quality. In fact, it's more efficient than a kevlar belt when operated at the designed top speed/acceleration. However, when the ruckus is tuned to operate at a higher RPM utilizing more horsepower, the belt will see accelerated wear and a kevlar belt would handle the extra friction and speeds better. You can also see in my other video that the OEM clutch on the ruckus does not fair well to handling higher hp/higher rpm and I had to make a temporary solution (the better solution would of course be to purchase a more robust and stronger aftermarket clutch).
I appreciate the info and replying back. I was thinking of keeping the stock belt on there with the CDI & Polini variator until I buy an exhaust and carb. Thanks for clearing that up about the belt and i'll check the OEM clutch video. I'll look into a new clutch when I buy the exhaust and carb, thats good advice thanks man. It was a good feeling when I broke 35 today and was cruising around 45 mph. Nobody tried to pass and I was keeping up with traffic.
A CDI and lighter roller weights was by far the best modification that drastically changed how the bike responds. Good luck with the mods!
If it spins bad or not has no importance. As long as the belt doesnt catch on to the bushing, dont bother doing this.
The belt is completely irrelevant to this modification.
@@FIFTYmil Well yes, that was my point. It doesn't have to spin as free as you claim, it just has to work like it's supposed to. And I believe the engineers at Polini were knowing of this.
Captain Edgy the belt catching on the bushing is irrelevant. As well, the driven space does not spin on the bushing. If you watch the entire video I describe how this modification reduces the friction of the driven face as it slides on the bushing. This theory is much similar and well documented for reducing stiction in motogp as well as removing the rubber guard from wheel bearings.
@@FIFTYmil I can see the point you're trying to make, and that this mod would cause less friction between the bushing and the outer half of the pulley, but I don't believe this mod alone would affect/improve either performance, variator transmission lifetime or any sort of even slightly noticable difference in the experience of a scooter. Ofcourse, if you were to combine multiple modifications at once, thus causing less stress on the transmission and/or other engine parts, then I see why this modification would come in handy.
@@FIFTYmil Also, if you were to make the seal smaller/remove it, the chanses of getting unwanted substances in between the bushing and the inner front half of the pulley would increase to individuals running an open/highly ventilated variator cover, even to those with stock covers! The mod you show in this video could make a risk of letting debris or belt dust into the variator, causing a potential increase in wear to the bushing sitting behind the seal you are showing. My point is that it was put there for a good reason, and as an experienced guy within the works of a scooter, I do not recommend making changes to the variator pulley seal.
not brass, no copper - bronze bushing.
Cool
no and i only weigh 145 pounds u had asked
Yah you see I weight more than 180 pounds so getting to 50mph should be even easier. I am surprised you spent that much money for such little gain.
Lmfao no way will that rubber o ring stop you from getting any power and no way that removing it will give you more power total waste of time polini obviously know what they are doing leave it be and the variator doesn't spin on the Bush once installed the whole crankshaft moves all at once that spins with the variator as one
Say that to MotoGP riders who remove the o-rings from their forks to reduce stiction.
@@FIFTYmil I'm sorry but that's the worst advice ever and you need to know that a little rubber ring isn't enough to effect the
Variator working if it was it would get chewed up instantly inside all those moving parts it fits perfectly where it belongs and does its job 👌 now for the forks the only o rings they have are oil seals and maybe one to measure travel used removing any of these on your forks is absolutely retarded
@@Cycle_in_style Clearly this dude does not know what stiction is. /thread
Why do not you lubricate the oring to cut it like an idiot?That takes care not to make the residues produced by the belt in the bronze. Now that you have cut the oring, the bronze will fill with crap and the scooter will be worse than before...
why not you ask Honda why their variators don't have an oring like an idiot? No "crap" fills the bushing...
FIFTYmil there isn't any oring in original variators bacause the friction is less and the belt don't produce so much residues...
That's the worst explanation I've ever read but let's continue. Why is the friction less on the original variator?
FIFTYmil im not english so i explain it in italian: i variatori che produce la polini come qualsiasi altra marca sono studiati esclusivamente per uso su pista e per funzionare con motori più potenti rispetto all'originale, talvolta vengono anche sabbiati per offrire più grip alla cinghia sulle puleggie. Detto ciò un variatore da pista deve rendere al meglio ad ogni giro, e quel paraolio che hai tolto serve propio ad offrirti sostanza per tutta la gara. I residui della cinghia non potendosi infiltrare tra spinotto e bronzina permettono al variatore di diminuire gli attriti e anche la temperatura, inoltre ti permette di lubrificare la bronzina senza preoccuparti che l'olio possa andare nelle pareti del variatore lubrificando la cinghia e producendo slittamenti vari.
Se le cose non le sai perfavore non parlare che ci fai più figura😉
So you suggest that because the polini variator is for "race use only" and assume the variator face is sandblasted, more friction is produced - thus an o-ring is necessary. This is, however, only your speculations without proof. Let's break down your speculations further:
1) This variator is not meant for race use only and did not specify that. In fact, it is meant for replacing oem european Honda zoomer variators which are speed restricted. Therefore this polini variator nearly identical to the oem USA honda ruckus variator, but offering a more aggressive ramp and a wider final transmission ratio, hence more top speed provided your engine can produce the necessary power.
2) The variator face was not sandblasted and exactly the same as the oem USA Honda ruckus variator. Therefore your speculation about more friction is voided and has no basis.
3) You keep suggesting that "crap" will enter the variator bushing but refuse to acknowledge that oem Honda variators does not have an o-ring, yet their maintenance interval well over 5000km. Also, you do not seem to be aware that Honda clearly suggest NOT to lubricate any parts of the variator.
4) You are not aware that both the Polini and OEM honda bushing are self-lubricating and does not need any of the lubrication you suggested.
PLEASE, do not pretend to be an expert if you don't know what you're talking about. General "assumptions" about what racing means only shows your lack of subject knowledge. I do not wish to embarass you further. :D
should have got malossi its way better
depends what is "better" for you. Polini definitely beats Malossi hands down for my particular application
FIFTYmil na m8 pullies belts malossi is way better or stage 6 those 2 are way better than the competition on a budget
Ian Duijsens Care to elaborate what you mean by better? Extensive research suggest otherwise for this particular application. How does a Malossi variator outperform a polini variator for the 50cc Honda Ruckus/Zoomer? Stage 6 does not manufacture variators for this bike AFAIK
FIFTYmil stage 6 actualy dont make variator's my fault but a malossi is better quality and gives you better torque than a polini i know i have a yamaha aerox that does 130 km/h or 80 mph and i have ade both polini and malossi and malossi is not superior but it is better just the overall feel and acceleration is better by 1 sec so big difference i know this from personal experience
FIFTYmil ps sorry for the bad grammar im dutch and just a few weeks 16