Air Compressor Aftercooler for my Eaton Compressor
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2024
- I finally decided to tackle installing an aftercooler on my Eaton Compressor 5HP 60 Gallon air compressor. This is a video documenting how I went about it and I hope you find some of the information helpful.
Parts used in this project:
Derale Stacked Plate Cooler Kit
amzn.to/3mcPPb5
Hayden Oil Cooler Mounting Kit
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Inline Water Trap with Auto Drain 3/4"
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Pressure Regulator 3/4"
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Hardline Tubing Adapter
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amzn.to/31E8mU5
AN 90 Degree Swivel Adapter
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5/8" OD tube to 3/4" MIP Adapter
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What I use in the garage:
Amazon Echo Dot
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00:00 - Intro
00:46 - What I want to accomplish
02:12 - Mount water trap
03:13 - Add fittings to water trap
04:07 - Mount cooler to back of guard
04:55 - Oil Cooler mounting kit
08:46 - Start plumbing
09:10 - Starting install of tubing
09:32 - Talk about fittings
10:32 - Walk thru after finished
13:54 - Temps after running for 15 minutes
15:13 - Final thoughts - Jak na to + styl
Nice looking piping, smart routing
First one I've seen using the stacked plate style cooler, good on you for not just following the "conventional wisdom" of buying a derale 15300 because that's what everyone does. And your temperatures speak for themselves. Nice job, nice bends as well.
I have one of those style air compressors. It has a Campbell 7 horsepower compressor head that looks like yours. I am in Pennsylvania and my 300 gallon compressor is in the damp barn . It gets super wet and water gets into everything. I am upgrading my HF sandblaster to the metering valve , lights and new glass with t-bolt thumbscrews that will hold the glass in and and screw into the outserts that I used for 1/4-20 threads. You are an inspiration . I should have the 17 centimeter light strips for inside. If everything works well then I am going to convert to vapor honing for glass bead's
Great job, your tubing bending skills are far better than mine! 👍
😀 Nice and neatly done. Great job.
You did a good job, and I learned alot. I appreciate it
Thank you. It's not perfect, but I feel it does help.
I think your tube bending job came out really good, nice job sir. I'm waiting on Amazon to deliver all my parts so I can do my Husky 60 gallon that I just bought from Homedepot. I can't wait to get started. The only thing I'm sweating is the pipe bending😬. Hopefully I won't have any problems. You're video gives me courage. 🙂 Take care buddy.
Good luck changing the belt. Your copper work looks fine. New compressors don't usually come with magnetic starters any more with the spec of your unit. That was an informative video, thanks
So I made essentially this same setup, except I have an IR compressor(175psi). But instead of running a single filter after the Derale radiator I ran a 3 stage Nanpu set from Amazon. Filter, coalescing then desiccant dryer then into the tank. Within 3 seconds of turning it out the 1st filter stage of the Nanpu blew apart. Looks like three of the metal lugs holding the bowl cannister on had just sheared off. The cannister flew down and smashed into the floor with all the plastic parts busting everywhere. Dented the metal cannister also and a small piece of something had flown by my head. I think it was one of the lugs. My first thought was that the nanpu, which I'm sure is cheap chinese pot metal, had a stress fracture in it. My second thought was that having all three stages inline created to much back pressure and the 1st stage gave way. I am using 1/2" NPT so the lines are big enough. It was probably a combo of those two items.
My goal was to have the air as dry as possible going into the tank. But when I replumb it I think I'll go with just a 1st stage filter/regulator and put the coalescing and desiccant filters after the tank.
Also, posted this as a warning to anyone else trying it. Take precautions when starting it up the first time with any modifications, like turning it on from the break far away from the compressor! ha.
Yeah, there was definitely a moment of stress when turning it on for the first time. Thanks for giving your experience. Hopefully it gives others more information to work with.
excellent mod to that compressor, it is the best way to have a shop pneumatic network that is free of condensation .
Excellent work. I'm building a similar setup but using the Derale oil cooler model 15800. It's a cooler/fan/mounting bracket setup but will require a 12v power converter. Opted for the fan based cooler as my compressor is an large vented cabinet I'm also adding ducting to exhaust the warm air from the cabinet to be on the safe side.
Good choice. I used the 15300 and fabbed up a frame, mounted a fan. Check out Hose Power (a Bridgestone company). They can make you a set of hoses with AN fittings that makes install a lot easier. This is my install so far: www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/dry-shop-air-step-1-compressor-after-cooler.94795/
Nice job 👍
Thanks for sharing; well done.
You did a nice job and should be very proud. 👍 So many people make a cooling manifold on the outlet of the tank. The tank gets very hot and they spend about $200 just on copper. I love the fact that you cooled down the air before the tank.....that should extend the life of the tank for a long time. 👍
whats the point? get more lower temperature of air into the tank ? whit this proscess loosing water inside the bottle? the air which inlet in the bottle must be the same as the bottle temperature,room ? correct?
@@drazenveselic2902 the air coming out of the compressor is HOT and as it cools down in the tank, it creates moisture in the tank. Cooling it before it gets to the tank, and removing the resulting water BEFORE it goes into the tank, prevents water from ever getting into your lines.
top job looks like factory spec! (I`m doing similar setup right now , beside the oil cooler / cooler fan I will ad an upper fan for the compressor head. )
Thank you!!
Fantastic
Useful massage
I can't believe you have never bent tubing before! Nice, tidy, symetrical bending job! Smart choice to purchase a better, larger quality bender, which makes non- crushed, smooth radius bends. Cheap "ain't" good, & good ain't cheap. I used to bend & install stainless steel (SS) tubing from 1/16" to 3/4" for LPG & CNG. That 1/2" & larger was so tough that we used gear reduction benders from Swagelok, if I recall correctly. Anyways nice install. Oh, I think you will get cooler outlet temps. closer to ambient with the addition of an electric fan ducted to force all fan air thru the cooler (for greater water condensation), & get more air over the pump fins to boot! *Two YT comp. air related channels for you or your viewers: #1) THE Compressor Guru (Bud Stiner), tech. videos for DIY's, #2) Doug Kronemeyer, engineering level knowledge on max. efficiency passive moisture removal in 3 parts (DIY #9.) Best complete logical info. I have found yet for small shop & hobby air systems! Paul from S. Central Tx.
I truly appreciate your kind words. I'm just someone giving things a try. Is this setup perfect? No, but I do think it helps. I'm glad it did it.
Good job on the copper bending from the cooler to the water separator. You just have to wonder why the makers do not use these coolers from the get go. Or, at lease offer them vs. the expensive methods.
This is fantastic! Thank you. I tried to do something similar with my oil-free compressor when I was trying to do some automotive A/C line purging since I don't have compress N2. Didn't turn out as nice as I tried to make a copper coil on the fly. Really love this method with stacked plate cooler which really brought those temps down. Does large pully draw any air across the cooler or just ambient air is doing the cooling?
Thank you.
The large pulley does move some air across the cooler. The original compressor design is to move air across the motor from the pulley, so I just tapped into that design.
Oh just what I was looking for. I want to ask how is it benefit? Does it help in energy consumption and compression?
Next try getting a cone air filter like the ones for cars or better yet get a full air intake housing off of a car and use it as your compressors air filter. Makes it much quieter..
You did a great job with bending that copper tubing but I have one concern, how are you going to get to the back of that compressor to change a belt or what ever needs to be done, I would build a small enclosure outside of the shop and put that compressor out there and not have to listen to that noise,
Great job man, options are like assholes everybody's got one.
Looks good to me.
There is a installation flaw, when belt need a replacement u have take apart the aftercooler has well.
You only have to take off two fittings. How is this a problem?
So the hot air that radiates from the cooler is now being pushed over your (already) hot compressor head?
Great job on that copper tube! Where did you get the bender?
The bender came from Amazon. I can get you the link.
www.amazon.com/dp/B079Z6RKBR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_5R5H56WRY6XWHEBFSESX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@backbeatwoodworks where did you buy the Cooper line roll what inch and type L or M.please let me know sir
Wow the focus motor on your lens is loud. What are you shooting with so i know to never buy one?
Thank you for video, i have a problem on my compressor very time change oil I have seeing a lot of water are mixing with oil, what make it trap water inside the compressor pump. what cause that and how to be fixed it? thank you
I'm no expert, but it maybe a bad gasket or the piston rings are warn to the point it's allowing air and moisture past them into the crank case area.
Backbeat Woodworks, what did you use to bend your copper tubing with? I'm currently working on adding a cooler to my compressor. I was able to bend most of my tubing by hand. I made it all the way to my water trap with out a problem. Coming out the other end of the water trap, I will have to make quite a bit of 90 degree angles to make it back into the tank. I tried bending that by hand with no luck. I'm using 1/2 in od 3/8 id copper. I found out it's hard to find compression fitting elbows for 1/2 in. My compressor is set up like yours
I used a tubing bender. It's really the only way to bend it without kinking. You can see me using it in the video. I'm not very good at it, but it worked out.
@@backbeatwoodworks I borrowed a pipe bender and a tube bender from some buddies. They kinked it. My local hardware store had the correct kind, but they didn't have one for 1/2 tubing. Looks like I can only find that online. I've learned that's it's hard to find a lot of fittings for 1/2 in copper tubing
When free-hand bending the cooper pipe, especially sharp bends, you can fill the tubing full of dry sand and tape or cap off the ends. The sand will support the tubing and keep it from collapsing.
Did the water trap collect any moisture?
Yes, the water trap does capture moisture. It auto drains when it gets to a certain level and I also notice that it drains some when the compressor kicks on.
Parts list
Great video! Have you noticed much/any vibration transferred from the copper lines to the aftercooler as this could be a potential area where some cracks could develop. I'm getting ready to install an aftercooler on my compressor, but I haven't decided whether to use copper or Braided Stainless Steel lines for that reason.
It really hasn't been in place long enough to experience cracking. That's something I'm watching for. If it seems to start I'll look at changing to some type of flexible hose.
exactly which aftercooler did you use with the 10an inlet and outlets
Here is the one I used. The price has went up about $25 since I did this project.
Derale 51910 19 Row Core Stacked Plate Cooler Kit a.co/d/4DCTurb
Systems like this, which can only cool the compressed air down to just above room temperature, remove only the water that's in excess of 100% humidity at that temperature. This excess water is removed, but the air that is sent to the tank is 100% saturated with water vapor. Since the air in the tank initially is uncompressed, it is not relieved of its moisture, and when it is compressed when air already at 100% humidity is added, there will be slightly more water in the tank than can remain as water vapor. Without cooling the air as it leaves the compressor to below room temperature, you can't quite get rid of all the water. The air in the tank will be at 100% humidity and there will be a small amount a water, but it's a tiny fraction of what it would be without this setup.
You are forgetting the effect of pressure. The air is taking up much less volume and given the vapor pressure of water, if you compress to 1/8 ambient volume the compressed air can only hold 1/8th as much water. That's why you end up with water in the tank. A lot of water if you don't drain regularly. The after-cooler is just forcing that condensation before the tank and your filter/water separator is giving that condensate (like cloud seeding) a place to form droplets more easily.
@@imkindofabigdeal4308 You are forgetting that the air is heated upon being compressed, increasing its capacity to hold water vapor. If the air entering the compressor is at 5% humidity at room temperature, and is compressed to 1/8 its volume, its relative humidity will be less than 40%, it will be at 40% humidity after being cooled back down to room temperature, and no water will condense out. If it's at 15% humidity entering the compressor and it's compressed to 1/8 its volume, still, no water will condense out because it will have been heated, increasing its capacity to hold water vapor. If it is held in the tank and kept at the elevated temperature, the tank will not collect liquid. It will not condense out until it has cooled to the dew point, the temperature at which its relative humidity reaches 100%. Only the water in excess of 100% at room temperature, will condense out. FYI, the water forms in the cooler, not the separator, the separator is just where the water gets trapped so it can be removed.
@@biteme4338 I'm actually not forgetting. Cooling the air back down, either with an after-cooler or in the tank causes significant condensation because pressurized air cannot hold as much water vapor compared to air at ambient temperature and pressure all other things being equal. The after cooler just enables the filter/separator to capture the condensate instead of it collecting in the tank or in the air lines. And that's the point of the exercise. I think we're saying essentially the same thing.
@@imkindofabigdeal4308 Did you read my comment at all? If so, doesn't sound like you understood it.
@@biteme4338 I found your original comment a little confusing. Could just be me. The key point is that at 150 PSI, air can only hold about 1/10th as much vapor as air at ambient pressure all other things equal (including temperature). That's why compressors make water.
So your copper hookups to the 10AN cooler.....did you step that down to 8AN and flare the copper ends ?? ....or did you go 8AN to 1/2 NPT and used a compression fitting??
Nice setup !
a bigger tank cools the air
Check out my air comprsoir after cooler at my u tube channel Stephen eggert..its a Saylor-beall.
You talk and act almost exactly like the ksr dude kevin…. Like could be his brother almost.. lol. Check him out on youtube if you dont know who im talking about.. search ksr and pick a video.. see if you cant tell who im talking about..,
Video is waaaaay too long, get in get to the point and get out, this video should be 4 minutes tops
@cecorri Thanks. I appreciate your pointers.