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Air Compressor Aftercooler/Dryer DIY Under $200
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2018
- My air compressor had been putting out visibly humid air so after scouring the internet, I decided it was time to try to build an aftercooler or air dryer. Some of the ones I saw weren't cooling the air very much, so like everything I do, I wanted to go overkill on this project. I found the biggest oil cooler I could, then found the highest output fan I could and had to plumb it somehow. Since aluminum and copper don't do well together (galvanizeit.or...) I added a steel coupler in between.
Oil Cooler (Tru-Cool H7B): amzn.to/2LCMXAc - $85
Flex Hose (Flexible Metal Hose with 1/2" ends, 24" long): amzn.to/2okvpzN - $40
Transformer (240v to 12v 20A): www.amazon.com... - $22
Steel Swivel Coupler (2): www.fastenal.c... - $9/tax
Water Separator: www.harborfrei... - $20
Radiator Fan: eBay search for "Universal 12v slim push pull racing electric radiator fan" and it should be about $20-$22. The listings expire too quickly to put a link up.
Grand Total for Parts: $197
Links:
Merch: roostersgarage...
Nilight: www.nilight.co... - 5% Discount
Amsoil: www.amsoil.com...
Auxito: www.auxito.com... - 15% Discount
Thank you for the reply this is why I love utube because you guys always reply and promptly. Honestly it’s a bit confusing but I think I got it. A video just on that portion wouldn’t be a bad idea. I bet your audience isn’t even aware of the importance of this and how convenient this moisture minder is. It really helps keep the tank dry. Thank you again for your help. Keep up the videos and by the way your idea of putting the cooler on the motor side blowing across the piston heads is really a stroke of wisdom makes more sense than across from the pulley belt.
Thank you for your kind words! I try to make helpful videos and I'm glad that this crazy idea I had has now helped several people. I'm not sure if the fan blowing over the piston heads really makes much of a difference, but I just figure it can't hurt. I'll see about making a video on the moisture minder this week.
Don’t let something you don’t do well stop you permanently… Just long enough so you can practice to become better at it
I have never been the type to shy away from new things. I usually jump in with both feet, then figure out the rest. The first step is always the hardest.
@@TheRoostersGarage You should figure out a better plumbing route so you can eliminate that very sharp turn underneath. Consider installing some kind of 90°, or possibly a 45° elbow...
Normally there is a guard around the pulley on the motor of the air compressor, and I have seen people put the after cooler in front of the pulley, which acts like a fan, keep the moisture out.
Thanks for the video. I have borrowed some of your ideas, along with some from other CZcamsrs. Installed and plumbed my cooler this past weekend. Just waiting on the fan to arrive from Amazon. Even without the fan I am noticing a major difference in the reduction in moisture. Thanks for posting
Glad you have a working solution! What other ideas did you use? Just curious if I might need to incorporate them into mine.
Great idea for a cooler! Im not a welder either but my late father was. When you welded the angle iron, it and the piece you welded to are thick enough that you could have tacked it in several places to keep it from drawing then welded the whole thing with a continuous bead. Looks better and is stronger.
Thanks for the tip. I forgot to tack it well enough to keep it from drawing. That's my inexperience showing.
Hey Rooster,
Ur welcome and I’m looking 4ward to your next video whatever it might be.
Hats off to you. Great project. I really appreciate your humility in showing your mistakes, all of us learn by that very thing. Nice one. This is something I will try myself. Thank you.
Well thank you! I'm glad it can help and if you have any questions, let me know.
I did this mod to a smaller compressor I was going to mount it similar up/down with inlet and outlet vertical since it would be more convenient in my case to come up with a bracket but went with horizontal, I was concerned about leaving moisture in the system, my water trap I simply hooked onto the lower end of the cooler and another line comes back up into the tank, so moisture has to fight gravity to get into the tank itself not sure if that helped some will still get in the tank but it definitely collects moisture in the water trap that likely would have been even more in t be in the tank. where as before draining the tank there def was moisture coming out, it's noticeably less so I think these mods are worth it
Yeah, I've been using this for a few years now in the humid Southern summers and my tank never has any moisture, nor do my air lines. It's amazing how good just cooling the air down works.
Love this.I made mine with just 3/8 aluminum brake line and made smooth back n forth loops into water trap with a drop pipe with ball valve right before the trap.. The other way I wanted to make it was using my 60 gallon tank as my tube bender and just wrapping it around the tank a few times before entering my trap.. doesn't have to look pretty, just needs to work. And my way was DIRT CHEAP
I looked at the water bath method and it honestly looks like it would take the most heat, but I didn't have room for one big enough to do anything. My favorite price is cheap!
@@TheRoostersGarage ditto..I just built my whole shed from other people's scrap pallets(they had nice 2x4) and galvanized wharehouse doors ended up my roof panels(after cutting them)..I only spent $200 on my OSB walls and another 70 on house wrap.. Anything else is accessories..So a 12'x10' that would've cost me around $4000 otherwise..I know all about cheap, and FREE is my favorite 4 letter word. Until I hit my thumb with a hammer
@@_mylastname LOL!! I bet you were saying some other words then. Other people seem to get a lot of free stuff and I wind up just looking for cheap stuff.
The good thing about bad welds is you can grind them off and try, try again.
And grind them off and try again I did. I have also switched from the HF flux core wire to the TSC (Hobart I think) flux core wire and my welds are much better.
As long as it works it’s great. A bit of a mess though. Engineering isn’t my strong suit either. I have to build and alter as I go. No matter how careful I am I always have to change my design.
Yeah this took some altering along the way. Some things worked great in my head but not on the real thing
I love what you have created and it looks like a good project to hone a few new skills. Do you have plans for any more modifications?
Is there an issue of stressing the motor when using a cooler post compressor on a single stage compressor?
Thank you! For my setup with 125psi it's working great. If you had a 175psi compressor, I'd switch from the transmission cooler to an AC condenser. I am no engineer, but I don't see this as adding enough stress the motor would even see it. This is just adding a much longer path from the compressor head to the tank.
This is very close to the setup I am working on now. The wiring is what I dealing with. I thought I saw that right, you used speaker wire to run 220v to the power supply? Not being critical, just asking. That didn't burn up? Is that because of the low amp draw over it? I thought I would need high voltage primary wire to run this off the 220. If so, I have loads of high quality pure OFC speaker cable.
Oh and we all started out welding like that. Great job going for it and getting it done! I still remember the first time I welded, years ago. Built an outdoor kitchen out of my 4-wheeler trailer. To this day everyone at my tailgate's say who built this thing? I say, me. They say, I didn't know you weld. I say, I do now.... and that's how it begins. you learn. Great job man!
Yes you saw right, I used speaker wire to connect to my transformer. It's not the most recommended since the insulation isn't rated for it, but I'm not grabbing wires as the compressor runs and it's high enough to keep little hands off. It's safe enough I guess. No it hasn't burned up and even after running for a while it's not warm to the touch at all. Since it's 220v, it's half the current and 16ga wire on 220v is plenty of copper for this amperage.
Thank you for the kind words! My welding is improving, and I upgraded from my HF wire feed to an Everlast stick welder. Now I'm sucking at stick welding too, LOL!! I'm getting better and practicing on old brake rotors. It blows me away that at 90 amps with this stick welder using an 1/8" rod I can get a brake rotor red hot but my 90 amp HF welder was too cold for anything that thick. But I've welded several things up with it and while the welds aren't pretty, they hold. I've got a friend who is a professional welder that got me into stick welder and I ask him to check my welds quite often. He started off laughing at them because they are so bad, and now he can see they are getting better and he's offering advice for improvement. We all start somewhere!
Why would the temperature of the air entering the tank have any effect on the moisture content at the inlet of the pump? As long as all the air that enters the pump makes its way into the tank, regardless of its temperature, the same amount of moisture is still present. When the air is used the tank air pressure will drop, causing its temperature to drop, and if it drops below the dew point then it will condensate on the tank walls all the same.
As our weather warms up our humidity also increases. Rainy days of course bring more humidity. There is a noticeable difference in the summer months versus the dryer winter months in how much moisture is trapped. Before this I would notice the tank would hold less air in the summer than the winter between cycles and if let sit overnight it would need to cycle again to refill as the warmer air was less dense. When it normalized overnight the density dropped to where there was only 80 psi in the tank. Since installing the aftercooler this does not happen because it gets cooled before entering the tank. Now my air is not only dryer in the tank and no moisture ever comes out from the tank but also it maintains pressure in the tank.
I know this is a old video but I'm wanted to wire a 220 power supply just like you have just wanted to know how you wired it to the pressure switch,
I wired the transformer in parallel with the motor. Basically, the 2 ring terminals where the motor gets its power are the same screws I added ring terminals for the 220v incoming for the transformer.
Nice job. I'm doing something similar. It looks like you wired up the fan so the fan rotation is clockwise making it a pusher. Is that what I am seeing? Thanks!
@@AmericanMakerCNC Yes, I'm pushing it over the transmission cooler. I did find out if you have a 2 stage compressor, this cooler will blow after a while and you need to use an AC condenser instead to deal with the 150+ PSI
@@TheRoostersGarage Thanks for the reply and info. Sorry your cooler blew. I am using a different cooler that is rated at 250psi working pressure and 300psi burst strength. And my two stage compressor maxes out at 175 psi. Hopefully the cooler I selected will last ... we'll see.
Thanks for checking the video out and commenting. You should be good with what you selected. This one has held up for me without issues, but I did a buddies compressor and it blew on him.
How do you wire up the aftercooler to the air compressor. Do you have a video on the matter?
6:43 I very briefly touch on it. There are 2 contacts inside the pressure switch - both are power so there is no polarity to worry about and these are only hot when the motor is running, but disconnect the power anyway. The speaker wire connects them to the 220v - 12v transformer. On the input of the transformer there are 2 screws where this wire connects. Ensure the switch on the transformer is on 220v mode, then take a 12v positive and negative out to the fan.
Is the fan really even needed? And it sure looks like if the radiator is on its side it would allow water not to accumulate in the bottom of the coils if the inlet was into the top. Just wondering.
The fan is needed to rapidly cool the incoming air from the compressor head as this air is close to 300F. With the fan and the radiator, it cools down to about 75F by the time it exits the radiator. The radiator has both inlet and outlet on the bottom and has a slight cant making the outlet just a little bit lower to get all the water to drain out (hopefully) and into the copper line that goes to the water separator. In just a normal recharge it will drain about 3-5 oz of water from the separator. If I run the compressor for 15 minutes straight I have to stop using air to let the compressor catch up and drain the water separator because it collects enough water to reach the air fins which is about 3" over the max fill line. I made a lot of assumptions with this as I was building it, hoping they would pay off. To be quite honest, I never expected this kind of water removal from something like this. This air tank is 125 psi max, but for a higher pressure air tank a vehicle AC condensor would be better suited because of the pressure and heat. I've heard those are so large they don't need a fan.
Your a little un organized, But I like that and really enjoy watching the process of a project coming together. Lovely little cooler setup, Looks super clean
LOL!! Yeah, you could say that. As much as I'd like to be super organized, I doubt I'll ever get there. Thank you- the cooler works great in our 80%+ humidity.
Nice set up, you can take a a/c condenser off of a old car or truck and it’s a lot bigger and it will work like a charm, been running one for about 7 years and can paint a whole car or sandblast for hours and never get any moisture from the compressor, works better then anything you can buy that claims to catch moisture, been there done that
I looked into that but was worried it might impede the air flow coming into the compressor. The inlet and outlet seem small but it apparently works
Rooster's Garage got one on a 120 gallon 2 stage and works good on a big sandblasting cabinet and ever thing else I use, trust me it will work
That's awesome! I never could find details like that, just people saying to use it. There's a big difference in a 4 cfm 25 gal and a 15 cfm 80+ gal compressor. I even choose this cooler because the huge openings it has. Glad to have some really world experience that it works!
Rooster's Garage yeah works really good, my compressor sits next to the wall and I just mounted my a/c condenser on the wall and ran my line’s, very simple and plain and it really works, not like all that other stuff that claims to work, I tried everything you can think of to keep moisture out because I do a lot of painting and sandblasting and that’s two things that you got to have zero moisture,if you run any air tools just make sure you have some kind of Oiler in airline for your tools or just add a few drops to the tool every once in a while because dry air will eventually cause that tool to dry out and lock up, been around this stuff and work with guys that wouldn’t keep their tools oiled and they would lock up, I worked in a place for fifteen years where we used air buffer s and grinding tools all day long, so I know what moisture will do to a air tool
@@eroom2087 Does it also have a fan? I oil my tools every use because I am not setup yet where I can mount an oiler. I've got the oil right on the air tool mount so I always remember it. I don't want water in the tools and I also don't want to use them without oil. If I ran a DA or something like that where I needed to run a tool for a long time, is setup an oiler but so far I just use air tools a little bit - impact, air ratchet, etc
Rooster I’m embarrassed of myself I spent so much time on the plumbing and muffler system I completely over looked the transformer which I forgot to hook up. I went back to your video and realized my error. Yes I have 110 and hooked up the transformer and it worked flawlessly. You have to try and hook up a car muffler to further reduce the noise. Also when using copper tubing your going to get leaks which is time consuming to correct.
No worries at all, there's a lot of parts and pieces to make this work but glad it's working now! I thought about a muffler of some sort to reduce the noise. I packed mine with steel wool because I heard that helped some, but I didn't notice a lot of difference. On my copper, I had my friend who's an HVAC tech silver solder my copper so it can handle the high pressure and vibration. My copper soldering skills are worse than my welding skills - I never could achieve a seal so he came over one night and fixed every one of my joints.
for your fan problem with the bottom holes not lining up right that's a super easy fix, cut off those bottom ounts and use a soldering iron with a flat tip to plastic weld it back on, add filler material to strengthen it too, 15 minute fix
Thanks for the idea!
Hey, what's the difference between the cooler you put on and the cooler, the so-called cooler with coil
Price mainly. Harbor Freight wanted over $500 for theirs and I made this around $200
Any problems with water getting trapped mounted that way/level?
None at all, and I had my concerns. I've got an auto tank drain I installed before this but I've never seen any water come out of it since installing the aftercooler. Before I installed the aftercooler I had a wet spot after long runs and when manually opening would get a lot more water out.
The moisture you are still getting is coming from the check valve being in the original location. When you turn off the compressor, pressure and moisture back flows from the regulator line.
@waboom2 Are you talking about the tank check valve because it is on the dry side of the system. The unloader valve is on the wet side and would absolutely let moisture out when the compressor shuts off.
@@TheRoostersGarage yes I meant the unloader. Supposedly there's a way to mitigate this.
@@waboom248 Right, but that's of no consequence unless you are seeing rust forming at the unloader valve. The only air making it in the tank is dry air. Are you having issues?
@@TheRoostersGarage no I'm not, but I saw a yt'er very briefly mentioned you can arrange the set up to drain the regulator to dump some moisture as well.
@@waboom248 I'm using a HF water separator which drains when the pressure drops and since the unloader dumps all the pressure upstream of the check valve, that's the only time it drains. Although, I have the separator setup after the transmission cooler and it would absolutely be wet going back to the unloader. I guess you could setup a water separator on each side of the cooler to deal with the changing direction of the air. I have a Moisture Minder on the unloader piping and I just checked I'm getting a bit of oil out of it, which makes sense since the air coming from the compressor head has some oil in it. I didn't see any signs of water around the unloader valve and I think the Moisture Minder is taking care of that side - maybe.
I think I have an identical compressor. 15 amp motor? Considering the cooling fan draws 6.6 amps, did you have to upgrade to a 30 amp circuit or did 20 amp work fine?
Mine is a 5hp motor and I've got it on a 30 amp circuit. The starting current is what threw it up to a 30 amp breaker I believe.
Where did you get your power adapter? Has it lasted a while? I bought one online and in a week it was toasted. Thanks for any info!!!
I've got the link in the description for everything I used on this project and it came from Amazon. It's lasted for the life of this modification without any issues, but I went way overkill on it by going 20A on this little fan.
@@TheRoostersGarage thank you for your speedy response!!!
Where did you get your feed hose and how is it holding up to the heat?
I got it from Amazon and its in the description. It looks no different today with hundreds of cycles than it did when I built it.
I would have mounted the cooler in front of the compressor pump pulley with the built in fan blades. Either way, it looks and works good. Great job.
Thank you. The compressor pump is very small and the hot air coming off the head wouldn't do much coolng I'm afraid. The second fan blows more air over the compressor head and helps cool it more.
@Rooster’s Garage, on the 220v power supply, I assume you have both hot legs going to L and N on the input terminals? I'm going to run the same setup except tap into the hot legs from within my magnetic starter
Yes,, you are correct
A cooler and dryer do different things to the compressed air. Know exactly what you looking for.
This cools the air past the dew point, and also dries it
It honestly baffles me why air compressors don't have these built in and integrated to extend tank life. They are inexpensive and easy to assemble. You'd think this would be a selling point for more premium compressors.
I think some of the ultra expensive ones have an integrated dryer. But honestly if the tank rusts out, that means you have to go buy another so it works out better for the manufacturer. Plus, it adds to the cost. This only cost me a couple hundred to setup, but the majority of people would want something that looks nicer and therefore costs more money.
Great idea, I have a question- I see you used an oil cooler which is a bar and plate style heat exchanger over a tube and fin design used for automotive type A/C condensers. The tube and fin is a better heat exchanger but I've heard the multitude of bends cause flow restrictions is that why you went for the oil cooler?
That is exactly why I went with the oil cooler, plus it's compact size made it more convenient. Mine is a 125 psi compressor, but for a higher pressure switch the automotive condenser would have to be used. I've heard with them the fan isn't needed because they are more efficient, but I'd still run a fan anyway.
Hey Rooster,
I got my project going finally. I installed the lines on my 30 gallon compressor and the oil cooler and I’m having a problem with the fan blowing a fuse every time I connect it to the power switch. There’s 2 lines for the motor and 2 lines above those. Do I disconnect the 2 factory wires and install the fan wires. Any ideas?
You should have 5 wires coming into your pressure switch - 3 from the incoming AC which are hot, neutral and ground if it's 110 or hot, hot and ground if it's 220. Your other 2 should be the switched power going to the motor. I connected my fan transformer to the two wires going to the transformer. 220 is easy because they are both hot. If it's 110 then you have to make sure you have the correct polarities. You say blow a fuse, but are you meaning the breaker in the panel for the circuit, or a fuse in the transformer?
Do you have the link for your after cooler on Amazon and fan size you used?
The links are in the description. The fan is a 12" "racing" fan on eBay. I'm pretty sure it's some Chinese junk but it's lasted this long and for $20 I can't complain.
Nice setup!!! Going to do this. Where did you get the auto drain unloaded valve?
It's just a standard air compressor unloader valve. I honestly can't remember where I got it and it's not showing in my Amazon orders. I might have got it from Tractor Supply.
Damn fine set-up! I might do near the same-'cept radiator flat above motor w/ fan blowing up...
Thank you! You have a good idea there
@Rooster's Garage Great Job.. It's been about 2 1/2 yrs since the air dryer build. Did you raise up the condenser to get rid of the real sharp bend? All you need to do is raise the whole thing up 6" or so.. I've just finished the same kind of air dryer, but now I want to install a fan on it like you did. How did you wire up the fan and transformer into the compressor?
I have not raised it up. It's been working and with the hard lines, it's not worth the time it would take. The transformer is connected to the 220v going to the motor so it only has power when the motor is running. All compressors are a little bit different, but just tracing the wire going from the motor to most likely the pressure switch will get you to terminals of some sort to wire to. On mine, they are just screw terminals and I added a ring terminal to take the 220v to the transformer. The transformer drops the 220v down to 12v for the fan and I've just got the positive and negative for the fan connected to the 12v side of the transformer. This transformer will connect up to 3 devices, so it's got 3 positive and 3 negative - any of them will work.
Thanks for the quick response. I appreciate it. I’m gonna order that transformer today and give it a try. Thanks.
@@speedbuggy7240 Great! Hopefully you won't run into any snags, but if you do let me know.
Hey Rooster,
Thanks for the reply and I just received the Sam transformer you have. Did you adjust the voltage with a volt meter and if so I assume you adjust it to as close to 12v as possible. Plz correct me if I’m wrong. Also I’ve seen the wiring for the pressure switch using the connections for line 1 not the motor. I have seen a lot of utube on this and I like yours the best. By the way ur welding held and u prettied it up. I also just received my 14” fan and I’m setting up my Industrial 30 gal compressor and I’m also looking for the largest oil condenser which is not easy.
Regards
Staten Island John
Oh heck no. I just took the manufacturer at their word that it's 12v roughly output. Honestly if it's closer to 14.4 then that would be best since that's what vehicles run at. It's a fan and as long as it turned on, I was happy. I'm glad you enjoyed my creation. I watched many others and tried to take elements out of them and also create something that wouldn't break the bank. You'll be so much happier with the dryness of the air when it's all done.
Hey Rooster,
I have the transformer all squared away and I just received the same Tsunami moisture meter you have and it all seems cut and dry except the copper line from the business end of the moisture meter going into a tee fitting. Your video is not clear about it and I would appreciate if you could explain a little further. It looks like the meter is splitting into the oil cooler line. That little item is expensive $125 not counting the installation kit . It looks like you went for that too.
Regards
Staten Island John
Yes, I purposely glossed over that since that was my first pass at dryer air. The T fitting goes into the copper line that goes to the unloader valve and the pressure switch, not the oil cooler line. My compressor has a 1/8" copper line but both the 1/8" copper line and the 1/2" copper line from the oil cooler go into the unloader valve at the tank which makes it a bit confusing. I did go with the installation kit, but still had to make a bracket for it because their bracket didn't suit where I wanted to mount it. Let me know if you have any more questions and I can make a quick video if needed.
Hey Rooster, you didn’t show how you wired the fan to the transformer and adjusted the voltage?
Oh dang, you're right. I connected it to my pressure switch that turns on the motor for the 220v side. I've done this on another air compressor and it was quite a bit different than mine so tracing the motor wire was the key to finding a contact I can tie into. The transformer has a switch which should be set to your motor voltage, but just make sure it is when you get it. It's only got 2 settings, 110 and 220, so even if you had a 110 compressor the same transformer would still work Then it's got 3 12v outputs and I just used one pair. Let me know if you need any more help. I can make a video detailing this if needed.
Has the 240v to 12v power supply been holding up? Thanks!
Surprisingly yes. I've spray painted my lawnmower deck and done a bunch of work with cutoff and grinding wheels which I would have thought any of these would have killed it but it keeps on going. In fact I haven't had to replace anything so far.
@@TheRoostersGarage Thanks for the quick reply. Just ordered one for my aftercooler fan. good price for a 20 amp power supply. Shouldn't have a problem running a 6.6 amp fan. It will draw less than an amp from the 240v compressor supply.
Honestly that's why I went with a 20 amp - I figured it would be so much less than it can run and it should run cooler than if I got a 10 amp and I was over 60% of it's rated capacity.
Your lower fitting should be the outlet so the water drains down to the lowest point. The rest looks good. But you should still drain the tank after each use. Admittedly there won't be much moisture but better safe than sorry.
I would think you should mount the heat exchanger with the inlet air on top, and the outlet on bottom, and pitch everything to the filter/separator. Other than that I like the install. How has it been working for you?
That was my original plan, but the hot side braided hose I bought wasn't long enough so I had to redesign it with the length I had. Pesky measurements! It's been working very well. My compressor is only 125 psi so I haven't blown anything out. I setup a friend's who has a 175 psi compressor and in about a year he blew the cooler. I found a suitable AC condenser for him and am waiting on the call to go hook it up. I cycle my compressor at least weekly so it's not sitting dormant, but I'm also not a shop using it all day like my friend is. I've painted with this and ran my sandblaster (both things I couldn't do before without getting tons of water) and everything has stayed dry. I did notice I filled up my water separator in about 10 minutes to double it's water capacity, so I've decided to just let the compressor turn off every 10 minutes or so while blasting. I've not even had to make any changes since I made this video.
@Rooster’s Garage where did you get the automatic drain? Is it time based or automatic based on moisture level??
Harbor Freight. The link is in the video description. It's pressure based which works perfect for this application, as long as I'm not sandblasting for an hour and the compressor is running nonstop. I've been looking at a fully automatic on Amazon but haven't had the need to replace my HF drain just yet. amzn.to/2KiVmJj I've only honestly wished for a fully automatic once. All of this depressurizes every time the compressor shuts down
I just used 1/2 inch copper coil tubing, looks like a alcohol still,,lol but dropped my air temperature from 240 degrees at compressor to 62 degrees at tank
I looked at doing that but I don't have the room for a big tank full of water.
@@TheRoostersGarage I didn't use a tank of water or even a fan,,,,just coiled the tubing in 6 - 12 inch diameter coils and mounted it in back of computers, a hell of a difference
@@TheRoostersGarage the air is moving so fast I can't see where a fan or even water would make a difference,,, just the distance in the coils will dissipate the heat off plenty
@@georgespangler1517 I wasn't sure if the fan would do much but with the big transmission cooler it acts like 50' of copper line. I can't touch the incoming port of the cooler and the output is nearly room temperature. I was doubtful if it would work and I'm shocked every time I see several ounces of water drain out on each cycle.
@@TheRoostersGarage I was wondering about that,,,because you mounted the cooler higher then compressor and it has no choice then to drain it down to compressor,,,,I made sure my copper tubing was lower then compressor
cool project !!!
Thanks!
You made a very good design 👌
But You didn't make a plan before you start
Thank you! I had a rough plan and knew what components I was going to use, but had no clue how well it would work.
I don't get why you put a 12 volt fan on it.
Wouldn't it be simpler just to use a 120v or a 240v fan instead?
I was looking at them, but I couldn't find an inexpensive 220v fan. It was actually cheaper to use a 12v electric radiator fan and buy the transformer
@@TheRoostersGarage I never would have thunk it !
Yeah, I was seeing fans for over $100 for much more critical jobs intended. I just started looking at what fans I could adapt to this and stumbled on these eBay fans
@@TheRoostersGarage I think I would have gone to Wally World & bought a Chinese fan for: "a-buck-two-ninety-eight".
@@lestergillis8171 I looked Wal Mart for cheap fans, but they didn't have their fans out when I was building this. You know how retail is, swimsuits in January, coats in June. The Chinese radiator fan off eBay cost what my Wal Mart shop fan cost (which I also thought about repurposing) and had mounting tabs, so that was one less thing to figure out how to do. Just needed the cross braces to hold the fan mounting tabs. So much of this project was looking at cost, then figuring out how to piece all these parts together that aren't meant to work with each other.
The power supply is no longer posted on Amazon. Could you please give electrical specs on labe on unit.So that I might find a similar one.
It's a 220v input with 12v, 20A output.
@@TheRoostersGarage thanks
Where's the link for the fan or the model number whatever so we can get the fan is your Transformers 5 volts not 12
I can't click on the eBay listing I bought it from but this seems to be the same fan: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142211642409. It's an automotive radiator fan. My transformer is a 220v to 12v.
Welds aren't anyworse than some Harbor Freight items have.
Well thats not saying much
I need a cooler for my everlast plasma cutter. I don't need to overkill the project though LOL
This wasn't too bad. The after cooler was only about $200 total. I have an auto drain that never spits any water now.
hey i cant find the link for the trasnformer (240 to 12v) and good video btw !
Thanks! Here's the link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6S0JS4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@TheRoostersGarage Thanks! so i was looking at the transformer i only see L and Neutral. so when you wire the 240v AC do you put one HOT wire to (L) and the other HOT wire to the NEUTRAL and one to ground and flip the switch on the transformer to 220VAC?
@@alexg6252 Sorry, I didn't get a notification for your comment and just now saw it. One goes to L, the other hot to Neutral and if you're bringing a ground, then one goes to ground. Make sure the switch is set to 220VAC as well. I'm sure you've already taken care of this seeing how I'm 6 months late answering you.
where did you get the 220/12 volt adapter? your setup is what i'm thinking o doing..also where dig you get braided hose? thanks....
I forgot to put it in the description. www.amazon.com/dp/B076DKPZGB. The braided hose is listed as the flex hose in my description but here is the link www.amazon.com/dp/B078Z1YGV4. It's been working very well too. Even at 15% humidity in the winter it is still pulling water out. I will say if the compressor runs for a long time (sand blasting) then the water separator will get full. I just shut off the compressor and let it dump the lines out, then the separator auto drains. Wish it had an automatic drain, but it was cheap
@@TheRoostersGarage how much air pressure is the compressor putting out threw the lines before goes into the tank?i've found hose that is good to 300.i see guys using radiator hose clamps on there after coolers..THANK you for your time...
The compressor shuts off at 125 psi. It's putting out tank pressure which is anywhere from 90 to 125 psi. The oil cooler is only good to 200 psi and the manufacturer does not recommend this usage, lol. Let me know if you have any more questions. I do this to help other people. I love CZcams and the variety of creators because almost any problem can be solved by watching enough videos.
@@TheRoostersGarage let me ask you thiis..will this hose work for what we're talking about?www.ebay.com/itm/10AN-12Feet-Stainless-Steel-Braided-Fuel-Line-6PCS-Swivel-Fitting-Hose-End-Set/122511199267?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D52935%26meid%3D3589b5b467224cf399020a0545f838eb%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D9%26sd%3D372529338853%26itm%3D122511199267&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Sorry for the late reply, but Google flagged your last comment as potential spam for some reason. I just looked at the specs of that hose and I think it should work. I know the air coming out of the air compressor head is over 200 degrees, but that hose has a working temp of 350 and a working pressure of 1000 psi. It should work. If it does, I'd be very interested in seeing it. Sure would look a lot better!
Why didn't you just mount the cooler beside the compressor fan/pulley and you wouldn't have had to add an extra fan. The pulley with the built in fan would have drawn air through the cooler. But, what you have works and that is all that counts.
I thought about that but the air pulled off the head is quite hot. Plus that fan is much smaller and runs slower than the radiator fan. The cooling would have been mediocre with the built in fan.
CZcamsrs that attach the aftercooler to the pump fan pulley cage don't seem to grasp the fact that the fan now is pushing the heated air it removes from the cooler across the (already) hot compressor head. not good.
Yeah, I've seen that a lot. I'm sure that pulley can has had a bunch of airflow research done and putting a radiator will most likely cause the head to overheat. I dunno but adding a $20 fan seems like cheap insurance plus it moves a whole lot of air
Or buy a Saylor Beall with a built in aftercooler all ready to go
Where's the fun in that?
Or buy a dump truck to bring those 5 bags of sod home.......... dicky dong..... LMAO
Any updates on your compressor ?
I use it quite often and I have not changed anything. It's cooling the incoming air and pulling out 2-4 oz of water each cycle. The aftercooler is pulling it down from 250+ to about 85 degrees.
It looks like your wire feed speed is way too slow. Crank it way up and I bet your welds will be better.
I'll try that. I was having issues with it not burning on the faster wire feed speed. The arc would break and it would push the gun. I'm saving up for an Everlast stick/TIG welder at the moment.
restricts air volume
Not at all. It's between the compressor and the tank, not between the tank and the tool. Besides, I'm larger plumbing than it ever had and the trans cooler is 1/2" which is even larger. The air refill is only a couple seconds longer just because it has more air volume before it reaches the tank.
@@TheRoostersGarage It's also longer because you are putting more air in the storage tank due to the incoming air being much cooler.
@ttank94 Very true!
Grinder and paint make the welder I ain't. LOL I'm not the best welder either
I like that! I'm now learning how to stick weld since my DC converted HF welder still wasn't up to the task of welding 1/4" material. I've got less spatter and more penetration, and my welds hold but they aren't pretty yet.
@@TheRoostersGarage nice that's what I'm doing for my sawmill build, but mine is a mix of metal thickness; 3/16", 1/4", and 3/8" plus welding on nuts to take all the lateral force and stabilize as feet. The most of it I'm confident enough. But the latter part has me nervous
@@ripntearslayer9101 Good luck with it! I'd be a bit nervous myself and stand back the first few times I turned it on!
Frankenstein called... he wants his creation back :)
That would include like half the stuff in my garage, lol
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Both ways help fund the channel. I have lots of big ideas I want to do and your help will bring them to life.
The dryer should go where there is air flow and that is in front of the compressor pully unless you are going to use a secondary fan on the evaporator. Sorry but I'm only one minute into the video.
The problem with using the fan pulley is that air is to cool the head. If you get behind the pulley then you preheat the cooling air for the head. If you're between the pulley and the head then the head doesn't get the airflow it needs. If you're behind the head, then the dryer doesn't get the cooling air it needs. Plus, it's not that great of a fan. I'm assuming you kept watching, but the thumbnail also shows the additional fan I added. Just a simple eBay 12v radiator fan.
Yes I did continue to watch it but what I was saying most compressors have a Fan Shroud in front off the pully and the air would get pulled through the cooler before passing over the pump removing the need for all the brackets and additional fan & power supply but as I always say there is more than one way to skin a cat. LMFIAO@@TheRoostersGarage
@@alfredocuomo1546 This one didn't have a fan shroud so I was stuck making something anyway. It's been an expensive "free" air compressor
Lol, it always is but at least you can take pride in your accomplishments.@@TheRoostersGarage