DIY Air Compressor Aftercooler Dryer Water Separator | Compressed Air Cooler
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- čas přidán 24. 07. 2024
- How to get dry clean compressed air with a $60 Derale (15300) 16-pass tube fin cooler on a Ingersoll Rand T30 60-gallon air compressor. This is a very easy and cheap option to remove moisture and water from compressed air. Much easier than the tube drain traps and other builds out there. It uses the pulley fan for natural draft during charging. It provides over 125F temperature drop from the compressor to the tank and removes a fair amount of water in the separator. This is essential for clean dry air for paint or tools.
Parts/Fittings:
Derale 15300 Tube and Fin Cooler - amzn.to/3rFsrqX
Plastic Rod Mounting Kit - amzn.to/3sAUrva
THB Moisture Trap Water w/Auto Auto Drain - amzn.to/3HK50m8
1/2" Diameter 25' Aluminum Coiled Tubing - amzn.to/36606C1
(2) 5/8-Inch x 1/2-Inch Compression Fitting - amzn.to/3gBWIk7
(1) 1/2" Flare x 1/2" NPT Male - amzn.to/3sARr1U , homedepot.sjv.io/EaGMGD
(1) Elbow, 1/2" Flare x 1/2" MNPT - amzn.to/35Zln01 ,
(4) 1/2 in. Flare Nut - amzn.to/3Luyzum, homedepot.sjv.io/vn1J1L
Optional:
1/2" NPT Air Dryer-Filters Regulator Combo - amzn.to/3JlojCM
1/2-Inch x 3-Foot 250 PSI Rubber Lead-In Air Hose - amzn.to/3HK7VLC
Tools:
Double Flaring Tool Kit for 3/16"-5/8" - amzn.to/3DTVptF
Loctite 545 Thread Sealant - amzn.to/3uXhjIn
Infrared Thermometer - amzn.to/3xSETq1
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#aftercooler #deralecooler #compressedair
0:00 Intro
0:55 Parts Needed
2:45 Tank Components to Modify
5:00 Mounting Cooler and Water Filter
8:00 Cutting/Double Flaring New Tubes
12:30 Attaching New Lines/Fittings
16:20 Temperature Readings
Disclaimer: "Tuner with Kids", the alias for the human content creator for this CZcams channel, is not responsible for any damages, injuries, losses, or liabilities associated with any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance performed on yours, or any elses, vehicle/property whatsoever. No warranty, express or implied, is made as to the accuracy or completeness of any information provided within this channel. Viewing and using the “as-is" information of this channel is totally at your own risk. Always wear personal protection equipment and follow appropriate vehicle manufacturer service manual guidelines with original manufacturer parts only when performing any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance upon any vehicle/property. Please note that some of the links provided are affiliate links and I may earn a commission if you purchase through the links. I use all of the products shown and recommend them because they are from companies I have found to be helpful and trustworthy. Please let me know via email if you have questions regarding any of the products/tools used. - Jak na to + styl
After watching several vids on this I followed your instructions. The double flares were a challenge, went through 3 different flare tools before finding a good one. 95 degrees i Florida. 280 degree air going into the cooler and 90 degree coming out.
thank you much for this video, me and my son did all this today in our shop, used your material list. I went well and its AMAZING how much cooler the air is and a LOT less water, thanks again
This is the BEST video out there that shows you how to install a air dryer on a compressor in my opinion. Because of your video buddy I have gained confidence to do this job. Thank you so much buddy. I gave your video a gigantic thumbs up, take care buddy. 👍👍👍👍
Well done Binh, well done & well explained to Jason.
great job, bro! I am in the middle of doing something similar. Slightly different approach, but your video is keeping my motivation high!
Great video. After having done this as described in the video, I recommend buying the aluminum tubing in straight lengths. I spent a great deal of time trying to straighten the tubing to push the brass fittings on without pushing the tubes out of round. In addition, it is much more difficult to set the curved tubing into the flaring tool and have it perpendicular to the tool. I'd also recommend spending just a bit more and getting a proper tubing bender rather than the spring bender set.
Thx, I learned alot! Was gonna make a copper pipe manifold after the compressor but that won''t prevent water from entering the tank first. I do run an auto drain on my tank but if I can limit the water going in, it will give the tank increased longevity as well as less water in the final filter/s.
I had to subscribe. You were so thorough and kind to provide links to the items. First class buddy! Appreciated
Hope it helped your upgrades.
It is about the best modification you can do to any air compressor, this conceal the water condensation at the firat trap and not in the lines.
On any compressor, if you want to have water exempt air circuit, your tank must be kept cool so it traps the remaining water.
On my compressor, I done things a bit differently, I used a big regrigeration flat evaporator as heat exchanger and I used an automatic pressure activated tank drain to flush that portion of the circuit every time the compressor stops operating and it is surprizing to see the quantity of water that is collected at each compression cycle.
Very good job
Yea I manually open the drain weekly and even when I don't use compressor often, it expunges water from sitting.
Great job. Not easy to do. But you made it look easy! Thank you for sharing
Absolutely 💯 awesome video 👏. This definitely saves me time and money. Thanks 🙏
Nice compressor score. Ingersoll is great. Nice build
dude you are the best.... i was looking for oil coolers to do this but this is way to go.
Hey man, thanks for the tips air compressor works great with the modifications from your tips. Thank you.
friend used a couple Muffin fans from a computer server as they are 110 volt. they got a cooking pan the size of the cooler and installed the fans in it and over the cooler. powered off the pressure switch, Used rubber hose to absorb any vibration the compressor induced. they put amsoil compressor oil in the compressor as well, on the bottom of the tank they added a couple foot drain line so water collects in that not the tank.
Its best to cut any tubing that you want to flare with a hack saw as tubing cutters can work harden the metal and many times cause your flare to split. Sometimes it splits after its connected. Brake lines are the worst about this when double flaring. Most double flare kits in years past would tell you this in the instructions now that info got lost somewhere. Thanks for posting, Great idea. DS
Great video, thanks for taking the time to show us
Very useful video, thanks! Recommending to tighten NPT threaded connectors as hard as you can into cast filter bodies is not the best idea though...they will snap or burst along the casting lines if you go too far. That is why teflon tape is a better idea, the thickness of the tape gives you more ability to clock an elbow to where you need it. Been using 5 to 7 wraps on 1/2" NPT on any kind of air service for 30 years....Loctite 575 is kind of overkill on not the best choice. It is also not recommended to use any kind of sealant on the threads between the nut and body on a compression fitting, the ferrule is holding the tube and it would take unbelievable pressures to loosen that nut. Not being critical, just offering the advice as I am an instrument fitter by trade.
Thanks. Good to know. I was using Teflon early on this compressor to do the other maintenance parts and they leaked since I didn’t tighten enough on clocking the fittings. That’s why I switched to the 545 since I had that laying around for some hydraulic fittings I’m doing.
@@veecan8341 pipe thread sealant. Since it's not boiling hot air true blue pipe thread sealant. Or blue monster with Teflon 3-4 wraps.
Orient the compressor to allow better airflow through the cooler. With the cooler facing, and up close to the wall, air has to flow around it rather than through it. I like the install.
Loved this video, very helpful thank you.
Very clean install and well done video. Thanks :)
Please note that the 5/8 pipe from the pump to tank is sized to ensure that the pump(comptessor) can provide the designed CFM to the tank. If you now connect a smaller diameter pipe (the cooler) in between the pump (compressor) and tank.....you nowdecrease the CFM going into the tank.....which can increase the recovery time to the max air cutoff. Maximum CFM is critical to the operation of certain tools....like a DA sander....sandblaster....if you don't want the compessor running on and off constantly....or always running. However if MAXIMUM Cfm is not a requirement then ALL IS WELL.
Keep a bag of silica sand around. Or salt. Fill tubing. Tape ends then bend. Keeps tubing from collapsing
Or use tubing benders
I fill the tubes with water, cap the ends, and put it in my freezer, when its frozen I take the pipe out and bend it to shape and it wont kink. Remove the caps and the ice melts.
Good idea on the ice, never thought of that.
Just don't breathe the silica sand dust. It can cause cancer.
I must have missed this video the first time I looked for it.
I too have been wanting an aftercooler on my compressor. I also found the barstock 90 on the pump head to be impossible to turn. Lately, I've seen videos showing chemicals to soften the superglue holding that fitting in place. They recommend acetone and chlorinated brake/carburator cleaner to soften it. I'm still trying to find out how long it takes to dissolve. I'm pretty sure the paint over the joint needs to be removed before starting.
I've watched a lot of these videos, yours explains the process really well. One thing - I don't understand why everyone goes through all the trouble of mounting these on their compressors, between the motor and the tank? Why not put the aftercooler AFTER the tank instead of putting it between the motor and the tank? Pop an auto drain on the bottom of the tank, let the tank and auto drain do the job they're designed to do, collecting most of the moisture at the tank .... then have the aftercooler inline right after the tank, cooling the air before it hits the filter.
It’s due to the temperature coming out of the compressor, 250F. Dropping it before it hits the tank minimizes moisture in tank and in airstream. You rather catch before the tank. A cooler after the tank to the filter won’t do anything. The point of the cooler is to get a high Delta T. In industrial applications, they use refrigerated dryers to do same before the air hits the 1,000+ gallon tanks.
Extracting the heat before the tank give the air one more place to drop moisture, making the air that much drier.
A cooler after the tank will work but only on extended run times when the tank gets warm/hot. I used to run 50' of air hose looped to condense the water after the tank and before the dryer, it works but again only if the air leaving the tank is warmer than ambient.
I’m not concerned about moisture. I’m concerned about burning up my pressure regulator from heat! I might put it after the tank and not install a water separator. I use my compressor to bubble up water in my water well. I produce about 15 gallons a minute with all mechanical components above ground.
Just so you know pipe fittings will never come loose on you, you dont need it crazy tight. Teflon tape is best practice and is actually a lubricant, helping you achieve the root to crest thread interference fit that is your seal
Absolutely 💯 agree 👍
Thanks for the video. Good job..
keep the knowledge coming sir
My almost 30 year old 60 gallon 120 psi 240VAC air compressor has had zero maintenance and out of concern 10 years ago I added an air filter/dryer and I have never seen water or garbage collect in either component. This is an interesting upgrade and I am sure it's mandatory for Florida but not in dry cold climates.
I feel bad about abusing it but damn for seeing use every weekend that is pretty decent return on investment. I used to want a better one for air tools but I am almost all electric tools now. It may last my lifetime or explode and end my life not certain.
I needed dry reliable air for media blasting and painting. But in FL they tank condensates from just holding air and pressure. I manually hit the ball valve drain every few days for good measure. I hydro tested this to 270 psi for 6 hrs to make sure it won’t explode on me.
@@douganderson7002 honest, I've painted enamel with it also and not had issues or moisture in trap. Periodically my tank drains a little water, nothing like what other's get elsewhere across the country.
@@thereplacementfordisplacement we have very dry winters but humid summers here, so I have a dehumidifier running 24/7 keeping my shop usually around 30-35%. I build very little water in my air compressors. When possible, I think dehumidifiers are a good addition to keep surface rust from developing on equipment in humid environment, and it feeds dryer air into air compressors.
thank you!
Great video! More about you sandblaster too
I have some older 2020/2021 videos on sand blaster.
I was about to buy one of these, the 15800 with pre-mounted fan but saw a few reviews where guys have already gone through a few of these and had blown some seals, meaning it lasted for awhile then didn’t. I don’t know if corrosion from the hot water vapor may have anything to do with it but can assume so. That said, I’ve decided to build one of these on a 2ft x 4ft vertical grid using 1” copper pipe spaced 3” apart and zig-zag back and forth moving from top left (inlet side) down to bottom right (outlet side) . So there will be 16-18 sections of 24” long pipe.
The bottom right will have a T with a drain at bottom, then a 48” vertical pipe where the top will mount to a second hydraulic hose that goes to an auto-drain, and then from there it will go to another flexible hose into the tank. If needed, I can mount a standard 24” house box fan on the upper hot portion as well one lower down too if ever needed. Overall I also think this will cost about $50 less than a Derale with fan unit. Best of all, if anything goes wrong, I can hopefully resolder a joint rather than having to buy a condenser unit again.
I looked into doing the rows of pipe and it added up in costs for fittings. I thing the cooler is best benefit for costs. If you slope it properly, all the moisture will naturally drain to the trap.
That seems like a lot of copper pipe, about 35' by my calculations. 1" copper, even M pipe, is about $60 for a 10' length. Then there are all the elbows and other fittings. What did all that cost?
@@joer9719 I spend around $400, but also bought some pipe and fittings from local people off Craigslist.
Hey man just watched the whole video and I’m wondering if this set up would work for my puma 60 gal 5hp air compressor it looks a lil different setup but let me know if you think it’s will work for my compressor
Nice video.
Hi there. Im putting a cooler on my air compressor as well.
Im also using a water and oil trap on mine. I was thinking it would be good to stop any oil before it gets into the tank.
The oil trap has a regulator but i was just going to turn that up so the full amount of air gets past it so the tank will be filled up as quick as possible.
Do you reckon that is ok to do ?
Cheers for the great video
Try moving the vacuum to the rear port. That left side port is the inlet. HF and others have it wrong in the manual ON PURPOSE. It’s a patent/trademark issue.
I would have put the springs on the other side. Or maybe half on each side. Also burn the ends to make them hold tighter on the stopper so you call pull them tight. Great video though. Thanks
It's actually better that you didn't turn the elbow fitting coming out of the pump head, you want it facing down like you have it so that the water in the cooler and tubing doesn't flow back into the head when it's off.
I wouldn't use red loctite as a thread sealant on soft metals like brass or aluminum. In future, I recommend TFE paste on any threaded connections. Its gas and oil resistant and only dries to the touch- but will allow you to unscrew it later. I use it instead of teflon tape on all of my air tool fittings at work, as well as multiple automotive applications. Its gas and oil resistant as well.
Nice work, man. Looks great… i’m trying to figure out how you got that big bad ir and black and decker drill lol
I got like 5 B&D drills…lol. All cause the battery was cheaper with drill than alone. I also have Craftsman 20V and Ryobi 18V brushless drills, huge difference in performance. Haven’t seen any deals on Dewalt drills but I got their impact wrench, blower, and job fan. Spend too much time on Slickdeals so my collection is random on best deals.
@@TunerwithKids just giving you a hard time. I just sold my dewalt drill and impact to buy a bauer one for the battery price alone lol
great video, where I live its very humid, did you see a big difference in the moisture when you ran your tools?
Reason I ask is I'm sand blasting a car frame and the blast gun gets jammed up with moisture. This looks like a good solution?
I've been using it to sand blast in my HF cabinet and its worked well. Dry air and no clogs. My only issue now is keeping my media high enough for the siphon tube to suck.
Great video, but I wished you would have slowed down on the cooler install and flaring process.
Did you use a 37 degree or 45 degree flaring tool ? Thanks
The flare is 45 which is pretty standard. AN is 37 I think but for this connection it is fine. The circuit only holds pressure during charging so air moves fast enough that my minor leaks don’t matter. Once the tank is full the charging circuit releases all pressure.
@@TunerwithKids thanks for the reply
Can you do the same set up on a 30 gallon air compressor
You can add cooler in any but for a 30 gallon probably not worth it cause the oil less compressor. No room to route the air cause it’s has a small threaded pipe into the tank.
AN 37° flare and industrial 37° flare fittings function identically. In many cases, they appear to be functionally interchangeable, but they are not. What this means is that while the products may look similar, you must not use an industrial 37° flare fitting design as a direct substitution.
Yea I think it's 45 degrees vs 37. For this project they work because it doesn't have to be 100% air tight. The charge circuit is only pressurized during fill. Once the fill is complete, the circuit releases all pressure.
I'm using scrap car air conditioner cooling coil, yeah it's free and it does the job well. anyway it was fun project
Yea, any coil that can be somewhat tightly sealed and pass the air can work. Only thing I’d be weary of is the tube size and SCFM that you can push thru that. Even my setup with 5/8 down to 1/2 has some people questioning it. But I figured the small decrease in ID of pipe will be made up by the extra length of the passes and charging circuit.
@Binh Nguyen-Tuner with Kids before embarked of this setup I'm aware of the cfm drop. my coil is not round but what i can say it's larger than 5/8. only the input and output using 5/8 tube. i think your 1/2 tube should be able to handle at least 40 cfm at 120 psi. whats more important here is using high flow water separator so you don't choke the air
Any air leaks because of the flare fittings vs AN? On the AN flare did you use a single or double flare?
No telling of air leaks since it’s a charge circuit that is moving high velocity during tank charge. Once compressor stops the circuit unloads. For the flare to AN junction, I think I did a double flare shown in the video.
Oh where did you get that spring tube bender ?? I have many benders for EMT and copper lines but that thing looks to be a good tool for those free hand jobs.
Came with one of my flare kits n
This cooler idea seems neat! Is there any water that gets trapped in the cooler coils? I would imagine it does. How do you go about purging any water in cooler coils?
There’s the drain canister at the end before the tank.
Any reason all compression fittings won’t do the job? I don’t have the flare tools so I figure compression fittings on all connections would work?
They can but it gets expensive. Plus the 8AN on the Derale needs a flare. You don’t realize how expensive brass fittings are til you price out dozens of them for the project.
For bone dry air you need to A/C refrigerate you air
With the water drain at the top of the tank do you ever use the one at the bottom of the tank ?
Yea I open the bottom once a week just to purge any moisture.
All model T-30 234,2340,242,2475,253,2545,71T2, 7100,15T, 25T2, All 12.5Kg
hmmm, so the flaring tool you used creates 45 degree flares, and the 8an fittings are a 37 degree interface.....how did you address this? Did you replace the 37 with 45?
no... the AN to flare junction is good enough for this setup. The is the charging circuit so it is only pressurized as compressed air is created and passes thru the check valve to the tank. Once the tank is charged this circuit depressurizes so its doesn't need to hold charge.
Any chance you have an update on if your secondary water collector was still getting any moisture or was the first one able to take care of it all?
The after cooler does a good job. The output filter driers are for any residual moisture inside tank. I also do a quick open close of the drain ball valve at the bottom once a week, it spits a quick burst of moisture everytime.
Me regalas el nombre del enfriador de aceite que usaste y donde lo compraste . Gracias
Es el primier link que el puso arriba
Derale 15300 Tube and Fin Cooler
Just a thought here; the placement of the cooling coil causes the cooling fan to blow very hot air across the cylinders thereby greatly reducing cylinder cooling. I realize you now have cooler air coming out but still may be causing overheating of the cylinders and possibly premature damage. ?
Negligible affects on the cylinders or the second stage coolers on the tubes. This is actually how OEM optional after coolers are also mounted. With the short duration of air movement during charging, it shouldn’t really affect anything especially with the wide range of ambient temps the compressor is already exposed to during normal ops. Main goal of the cooler is to let air make multiple passes thru and get a delta T to let moisture condensate and drip into the trap.
Ingersoll Rand we go way back
I have a 06 gs300 can I put the is350 brake calipers on my 06 gs300
Yes. Bolt on. Rear is already bigger and vented so it’s same as IS350 except caliper is slightly design.
What's your plan for getting standard 45º flare fittings to seal on the (37º) 8AN fittings on the cooler? Oooops! Does not work reliably!
It worked 🤷🏻♂️. I saw others doing the same with flare to 8AN, so I tried. No major leak. Remember the charge circuit doesn’t need to hold air more than the time it’s charging. Once the tank fills, the check valve and pressure switch unloads the line.
Any idea what the maximum cfm these transmission coolers is? I'm thinking on putting one on my compressor, but worry that it may restrict cfm levels. Currently without one, I can run 20 cfm at 90psi, but have the capability of increasing this to 30 cfm in the future with a motor upgrade. Any idea if this would handle that?
No idea on CFM, this is a charging circuit, so if your tank is full and the compressor kicks in to fill from 120psi back to 150PSI, not sure if that affects the tank output CFM.
Did you use a 45 degree flare and nut to connect to the 8AN male on the 15300 cooler? The 8AN is 37 degree. If so how has it held up?
I’m using 45 flare on 8AN. It works fine for this application. This is a charging circuit so it doesn’t have to be 100% air tight. It’s moving air so fast that any leaks are negligible. Once the circuit fills the tank, it actually unloads any pressure in the line prior to the tank check valve.
@@TunerwithKids thanks, I was wondering the same and deciding if I needed to buy a 37 degree flare tool as well as a 45 degree flare tool. I like tools so I might anyway 🙂
My 5 HP 80 gallon compressor is connected to a 3/4 copper pipe air line with a hydraulic hose. The hose is rated for several times the maximum pressure my compressor can produce, and it isolates the pipe which is fastened to the wall from compressor vibration. I've purchased, but haven't yet installed, an aftercooler coil. My plan is to fasten it to the wall on long standoffs so the blades on the flywheel can blow air through it. The lines from my pump to the cooler, from the cooler to the water separator, and from the water separator to the tank will all be high-pressure hydraulic hoses. The cooler will be isolated from vibration and I won't be faced with any issues of fittings turned in the wrong direction as I'll just buy hoses that are long enough to form a loop. Anybody see any flaws in my plan?
How much did this end up costing? and did you have the tools already or did you have to buy that as well?
All the parts ended up being about $285 (with after tank, trap air dryer) a year ago. I have most of the tools but did pickup the flare kit for like $25 since I needed the double flare (already had single flare kit). Most of the stuff is linked in the video description to Amazon. Everything is still about the same price this year. I also spend another $125 in aftermarket maint. parts to refurb the compressor after I rescued it, all valves, air filter, capacitors, drain/leader hoses.
Compression fittings you go finger tight plus one and a half turns
Why not tuck the lines underneath by the compressor head base to avoid that top loop? Would've made it look alot cleaner.
Was trying to work with the existing path and keep bends minimum due to kinking.
Hi do you still have the conversation bumper for is 250 for sale
I have it but not ready to sell yet. Still gotta wait for new bumper paint and clean up old one for sell. Local Orlando pickup only.
Sir for job
My experience in ir air comperssers sarvesing is 26Years All T-38Model
so would a AC air dryer reciver work as well?
AC air dryer is usually an output dryer. It drys air coming out of the tank. On large industrial systems, an AC dryer is used as an after cooler before distribution line or storage tanks.
vdf ?
why doesn't anyone braze these fittings? a/c fittings are brazed at the compressor due to vibrations...the movement of the compressor sure seems like a good source of vibration.
brazing would be overkill for air compressor. Having removable connections makes future service easier.
Use blue loctite. Reds too aggressive if you need to remove them later
It’s pneumatic/air loctite to seal, it’s not your typical locking type.
Hi. Excellent project - just 1 question which isnt shown clearly in the video - when you mounted the oil cooler onto the shroud /grille, does the compressor fan blow into it or sucks air through it? From the video, it looks like the fan is sucking air through it ... But I might be wrong. I always thought a fan blowing into the cooler will cool it faster but not sure if it makes that big a difference.
The pulley is sucking air thru because the OEM setup sends air to the after cooler pipes of the compressor and to cool the piston housings.
Great job. But why cut the original pipe just to connect to new pipes? Why not just make the pipes one piece? Less connectors means less places to leak.
I think it was making the turns and connectors. The factory tubes were already terminated to tank and motor so it was easier to join them.
So is the after cooler dryer running at same pressure as the compressor?
It’s the charge pressure before it hits the check valve and tank.
@@TunerwithKids So it is under pressure? the same pressure that the tank would be under while the motor is on?
@@4314832 it’s under whatever pressure the pump pushes while loading. Probably no where near the tank presssure. Once it fills, this circuit discharges at the pressure switch.
After 1 yr ..
How is it working ..??
😎👍😎
Great. No leaks or issues. Keeps air dry, I still open the drain ball valve once a week to drain any condensation from sitting.
How has this setup held up since making this video?
It’s good. I use it a few times a week. No issues.
@@TunerwithKids 👍
Is there a bigger cooler option?
Yea there are a few other more expensive options. Most people use this Hayden amzn.to/3E08Mc9
@@TunerwithKids THAT is one huge cooler, I put one of those on a big 4WD Hydrostatic Drive HYDRO-MAX trencher that had heated the hydraulic oil hot enough to melt the nylon filled pump pistons in the Hydro pumps and the melted droplets plugged the original cooler enough to create to much case pressure in the pumps which caused the crankcase gaskets to blow out. After pulling the 4 pumps off 3-4 times to replace gaskets, finally checked pump crankcase pressure and discovered cooler plugged off from all the melted plastic droplets. That was one of those "Fun" jobs you don't forget about.
Model 2475c5
Are you deviating towards 🎉🎉 hyperlink
The intercooler is supposed to go between the two pistons, i.e. after the first piston. Should work great anyway, I bet you get no water in that tank!
The motor already has an intercooler built in via the finned tube. This is an after cooler.
@@TunerwithKids I see, I neglected to read it carefully! Thanks.
Aluminum is not compatible with brass or copper it will corrode fairly quickly and weaken the material
Damn forgot about galvanic effects of dissimilar metals...doppppeee! Oh well I'll keep an eye on it to make sure AL tube doesn't oxidize too much.
Just two short years and this build is now close to $235.00. The cooler has gone up by 50%
I think the Derale has been hovering around $75 to $80 since I bought it. My total parts cost was $210 at the time.
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I wouldn't think that an oil cooler would hold the pressure
It doesn’t really hold pressure. It allows pressure to pass through on its way to the tank. Once the compressor is done, it depresses the charging circuit.
@@TunerwithKidsit has to be at the pressure of the tank at least while it's pumping
will that work on 28 gallon compressor it heats up when i paint small cars and lots of fish eye wish i could afford one of those well not in my lifetime
My unit came with a fan mounted after cooler..on mine check it out.at my u tube channel Stephen eggert.
Two steg All Model
2 years later and the cooler is now 89 bucks. Sucks!
Nice video. But I think you're going to have problems. The cooler should be put on the output of the tank, not the pump. That's going to get water in it and it'll sit there and rust.
This is how optional OEM coolers and every other aftercooler works. The theory is to cool the air as it leaves the pump BEFORE the tank which prevents condensation in the tank. The gravity will bring moisture out of the radiator and in to the trap. A cooler after the tank won’t prevent moisture IN the tank. After the tank you use line filters and desiccant media to dry output air which I also installed.
@@TunerwithKids OK. That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the detail.
Trabalho sem resultado.
Sem um sistema de refrigeração é apenas um monte de coisas inúteis e gasto de dinheiro.
Um sistema de remoção de água satisfatório tem que ser na descarga e passando por baixas temperaturas.
Intercooler not aftercooler
Nope, it’s an after cooler. The intercooler is the fins on the tube between the cycles. This goes after the compressor before the tank so it’s after.
You will find yourself replacing that "THB" brand junk very soon, if you can even get it to seal. Avoid.
Any other recommendations when this happens?
Dude your compressor is to close to the wall, it needs more space to breath !!!
No you spent to much money a refrigerated cooler is 600 dollars 99.9 water free no maintenance yoz fucked up
Naw don’t need that much cooled air especially for $600 vs less than $200. Most people don’t need the extra complexity for a 60gallon.
can i use AC condencer
You can if you can get a hood seal and fittings but I suspect the tube diameter is too small to move high air volume. These oil and trans coolers have larger tubes and are cheaper.
😂