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Making an Early Victorian Corset + corset evolution over time
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- čas přidán 19. 08. 2024
- I'm back with more corset sewing - this time an early-Victorian 1840s/1850s style "drab" corset. Luckily I have almost all the supplies I need to make it already in my stash. This is an interesting time period for corsetry because it bridges the gap from the soft stays of the Regency period into the super curvy, heavily boned Victorian corsets of the late 19th century. I talk about the changes that occurred over that time from the decline of shoulder straps, the invention of metal grommets and the split busk, and how the shape of the corset evolved with fashion.
**REFERENCES**
My Corset videos playlist: • Comparing my FIRST cor...
Black Snail corset pattern: www.etsy.com/l...
Corsets and Crinolines book: www.amazon.com...
**IMAGE CREDITS**
Early 18th-century stays: www.metmuseum....
18th Century stays with straps: www.metmuseum....
Stays 3rd quarter of the 18th century: www.metmuseum....
Spanish gold 18th century stays: www.metmuseum....
Regency short stays illustration: commons.wikime...
1790s stays: www.europeana....
Corset c. 1811: www.metmuseum....
Corset 1790-1810 (tie-on straps): www.metmuseum....
Corset 1833 (sewn on straps): www.metmuseum....
1829 Opera dresses: sparcdigital.f...
1840s Corset with straps: www.metmuseum....
1890 corset with straps: www.metmuseum....
Drab color corsets, Sears & Roebuck catalog, 1897, p. 325: www.google.com...
Fig Leaf bone eyelets: figleafpattern...
Early 18th-century stays: www.metmuseum....
Le Corset, Adolphe Mouilleron, after Emile Beranger, c. 1852 - c. 1853: www.rijksmuseu...
Corset 1841: www.metmuseum....
1876 burgundy corset: www.metmuseum....
Corset c. 1811: www.metmuseum....
1811 Fashion Plate from Ackerman's Repository: www.rijksmuseu...
Fashion Plate 1866 sparcdigital.f...
Wedding Corset 1865-67: www.metmuseum....
1871 De Gracieuse: geheugen.delph...
Carved wooden busk: www.metmuseum....
Split busk illustration: en.wikipedia.o...
1850 corset Fashion plate: www.rijksmuseu...
1837 Corset illustrations:
digital.ub.uni-...
www.rijksmuseu...
** MUSIC **
Courtesy of EpidemicSound.com
** CONNECT **
Follow me on Instagram @dixiediy: / dixiediy
I blog at dixiediy.com
I may not always have time to respond to all comments but know that I do read and appreciate them!
"Do I need a new corset?" The answer to that is *always* yes!
Absolutely!
I didn't realize black snail had a pattern like this. I might have to add this to my to-make list. Great job!
Oh yes please do! (And video it for us of course ;)
@@lauramcguire7970 I second that.
M3
Thanks! And yes, a video would be great ;)
Hehe who knew I loved “drab” as a colour
"If you're wondering why I didn't go out and buy matching thread? It's because...I did not want to."
This is the sewing advice I'm here for 😂
I don’t think I ever seen someone make a 1840s corset, cool 👍
Thanks!
This is an EXCELLENT example of how to make adjustments for a more perfect fit. Not enough CZcamsrs show how to do this. Thank you so much. xx
Glad it was helpful!
I have that same sewing machine! This is the first era of corset I want to make. I love 1840s and I’m ready to ditch my ill-fitting purchased late Victorian corset and finally make my own. Great video with lots of wonderful information.
This was so wanted! I've searched the whole internet for this period stays. I love the information and progression you show us!!! Thank you so much!
Yay! Glad it was helpful
I’ve been looking for the perfect shape corset to use for daily wear and I think I’ve found it now thanks to you! Excited to start this project soon. Yours looks so great!
Thank you! Good luck if you try the pattern yourself!
I look forward to the day when I can just crank out a corset. I'm taking a break from the half-stays that I've been Franken-patterning most of the year. Instead I'm rearranging the living room to better incorporate the sewing (and yes, I'm that level of stuck with the stays - where moving furniture is the easier option).
Enjoy the summer. Enjoy the travels - safe there, safe back, much fun in between... Ta!
- Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown
Are you in any Facebook groups for stays and corset making? I find them really helpful, especially for fit issues. There are specific groups for stays, and another for Victorian corsets, as well as historical sewing groups generally. They’re usually my first point of call when I’m having some issue I can’t figure out on my own.
AHAHAHAHA! I've been there before. I accidentally cleaned my pantry and rearranged the closet in the bathroom because I was stuck, once.
@@katherinemorelle7115 Historic sewing groups on Face Book...?!! Thank you. I may actually have rejoin the thing (time away during T***p meant I wasn't straining my virtual voice with all the yelling)
@@stevezytveld6585 yeah, I’ve found Facebook a much nicer place to be since I got rid of all news pages and started to use it purely for my historical sewing and history bounding groups.
Thanks be to the stoush between the Aussie government and Facebook (where Facebook blocked all Australians from all news content for the better part of a week in response to some Murdoch friendly proposed legislation), that showed me how much nicer Facebook could be when I wasn’t spending my time arguing with right wing walnuts. My life is much less stressful now.
@@katherinemorelle7115 "Right wing walnuts".
Thank you for that.
So sewing and history bounding may be the final push to get me back into The Social... huh, go figure...
Good on Australia for the news fast.
I definitely get that if you have to take a toddler along to get matching thread the juice is not worth the squeeze.
I love this ‘drab’ corset especially with the contrasting white. I’m surprised too by how dark it got.
Thanks! Yeah, I try to avoid taking her to stores as much as possible, or if I do I maximize my time out of the house and take her to a park afterwards. She's fine in stores but she gets restless if she's in a seat for too long.
And yeah, those pieces got dark! Maybe I had some extra potent English Breakfast tea this time??
An 1837 corset with a split busk!!!! This is HUGE. Great job!!!
Thanks Laura!
You've made me very happy with that find of the 1837 corset with a split busk! I'm about to make the Nora Waugh corset,and couldn't bear the thought of only having back lacing,so thank you for that 😊
THANK YOU! you are the first person in my 60+ video search to actually show a swayback adjustment on camera for corset patterns. please make that clip into a short or other searchable video, because it's VERY helpful!
Glad it helped!
I love that the corset is two colors! And it looks wonderful!
I love it! Now I'm itching to start mine. Have a great vacation!
🤩
Thanks!!
Each and every one of your videos brings me closer to making my own corset tbh
My favourite style of corsetry: for looks, 1780s stays, and they come higher up the back, which means more back support. As that’s the number one reason I wear stays and corsets, that’s important. But it’s a biotch to lace up all the time (though mine is front lacing which does make it easier- I would never make a back lacing anything) and binding the tabs was a nightmare.
So for ease of sewing and use: 1860s. It has enough curve that it matches my shape well, and is really comfortable to wear. It’s also much, much easier to put on. It’s also better for everyday use- I can wear it under modern clothing and it’s not noticeably different from my shape in a bra and spanx. I only have two proper styles of historical corsetry, and one modern corset that does me for pretty much everything- 1780s and 1860s. The 1860s, I will cheat and wear it with everything Victorian and later, and I cheat with my stays and wear it with everything Tudor to regency. For Regency, I use a strapless bra and a modern underbust.
That being said, I am trying to figure out a short Regency corset/sports bra mix type thing for my daughter. Modern bras just don’t cut it for someone as large busted as my daughter. So we want something that will support without digging in to ribs and shoulders (and short regency stays are still much more supportive than the tiny rib bands of modern bras, but aren’t so long she’d feel she was wearing a full on corset). But, she definitely does NOT want it to do the push up thing that regency stays excel at. She gets enough attention as it is, she just wants something that will batten down the hatches. So trying to figure out a way to combine a minimiser style cup with a regency stay shape. I’m thinking that 1830s and 40s might be the answer- drop where the bust gussets start, and have the stays come up over the bust like your corset here does. I’m thinking that would help compress the ladies down a bit. But we don’t want anything too restrictive about the torso- she wants to wear it for sports and whatnot, and she is only 13, so she needs more movement. Hence the short stays idea. But- they need to be front opening, so she can easily dress herself every morning. I was thinking I’d just replace the front busk with some boning and lacing.
Honestly, engineering something like this for her is taking up a lot of my brainpower, and I still haven’t finalised a design yet. But it’s on my mind, which is why I’ve written way too much about it here.
But if anyone has any tips, tricks or ideas that might help in doing a weird modern, non push-up mashup set of regency stays, that would be awesome. Because while I’ve gotten fairly competent at making big standards stays and corsets (as in, they’re not the prettiest, but they’re definitely functional, and I’m much better with fitting), the idea of making up a completely new style is still boggling my mind a bit.
Oh, and they also need to be easy to wash. She’s a teenager, she gets stinky. And wearing a tank top underneath will only help so much.
Hey have you seen Nicole Rudolf's recent video on different regency corset styles yet? The Circassian style might be adapted to something you need. Instead of tying in front you could do a series of hooks like on a modern bra (except, of course, it would hook in front rather than behind). I think you're on the right idea about lowering the gussets. If you do an over bust style you'll either need a drawstring to tighten up the top edge or taper the top of your gussets so they curve inward above the fullest part of the bust. Good luck!
I just watched a bunch of you videos and I really like this corset most. It looks quite comfortable and I like the full bust coverage idea.
Omg, I love the colour of the corset
Thank you! We had a great trip
Well done. Thank you for posting this. I actually really love the white accents.
Thank you so much for watching
OMG! The tool to measure the grommet distance! Amazing!!
I really appreciate you detailing the fit issues. I have swayback and high hip issues, but my bust fit issues are the opposite of yours.
When I was little, it was routine to dye white trims and fabrics with tea or coffee. The brown value is slightly different between the two (coffee being less red if IIRC) and the coffee leaves a permanent fragrance, even after multiple washings. I like the white binding and flossing contrast with the drab.
I have an antique sewing machine attachment specifically designed and sold for installing Featherbone (TM).
Fun to watch. I don't know if I have a favorite era for corsets. I just want them to have shoulder straps and for the corset to work with natural body posture. Straps help with my back and prevents back pain. The abs get a bit sore from forced straight posture but is a non issue in short order. The few examples of corsets or bustiers that I've done are made for a rectangle figure with a almost nonexistent bust. Nor were any of them made for tight lacing.
Hope you have a nice time traveling. I'm rather envious of you for doing that.
Thank you. This is very helpful for a dumb man writing 19th-century novels.
I am hoping to tackle making a corset this year!, I admit it is really very daunting....
Hi! I’m a relatively recent subscriber and I don’t think I ever commented before but I love your channel, your sewing work and videos, and I had to comment this time because I think thanks to you I finally found the corset pattern I want to try making for myself! I’m a plus size woman with a short waist and a huge bust and I have been waffling a long time over what corset pattern to try, because I didn’t want to start my corset making journey by drafting one from scratch, but it seemed every other pattern I’ve seen made on CZcams, including by other plus size sewists, would not be great for what I wanted. This one seems ideal! So anyway, thank you for everything you do, and thank you even more for this pattern rec!!!
Hey thanks so much for subscribing and commenting! I like Black snail patterns a lot, even though I've only made a few, but I know Rebecca from Pocket Full of Posies has made several of their patterns with great success. If you try this corset I hope it works out for you! Good luck!
I’ve never made a corset before (I’m scared!). But I’m ready to take the plunge! Either Regency stays or this 1840s corset will be my first. Thanks for the video!
I think it looks really pretty
I love the white on beige color combo!
Thanks! I think it turned out pretty good
18c T-Shirt bra 👏
Also, good idea sanding the ends of the bones, especially using the emery board. I usually melt the ends with a lighter, or if I have a lot of ends to do, a heat gun.
I don't know why I've never though of using a lighter?? That's a great idea!
Good to know about the sway back adjustment.
Looks good! I wish mockups weren't boring, but yeah I only made 1 mockup for my last corset too. I figure the lacing gives you a little wiggle room for it not being perfect.
Thanks! Yeah, if I'd needed more major changes I would have done another mock-up but I figured it would be ok to skip it this time.
Have a great holiday, your corset looks very nice, love the colour combo,💖
Thank you so much! We had a good time visiting family. First time in over a year!
Smooth-fronted stays from the 1660s. However, my size fluctuates so frequently that my plans are all for 1630s stays, which have the much-needed convenience of a separate stomacher.
The stomacher is a must!
I mean... I did the same thing when I saw the release.
Such a beautiful and comfy looking corset~.
I’ve been having a soft spot for the off-shoulder early Victorian dresses recently and this shape is perfect for the reason you went over: the straps. Thanks for adding to my confidence that it’ll still be okay and historically adequate trying to draft a franken pattern of my own. Loving the color, that tea put in work. ❤(｡☌ᴗ☌｡)
I have yet to make a corset (yet! one day) but aesthetically I really like edwardian corsets, but would probably absolutely hate wearing one. As someone who is more busty I start sweating at the idea of strapless anything, and the only (modern) quality corset I have even has high back with straps even while being underbust... so I guess my ideal corset would be closer to 1820s one with the straps and fitting cups. Then again, I am really short waisted so I think the shorter corsets of ~1870s might be easier for me to fit? Clearly I have a lot of questions and not many answers, haha.
I have yet to decide what kind of corset I want to make once I can, and since I live in a country with quite different history and am really into the whole working class history stuff I will still do some extra research to see how fashion over here differed and if/how it'd affect the kind of corset I'd wear with certain styles I like.
A lot of full-busted people like the victorian/edwardian style corsets because lifting up from the waist is a much more secure way of supporting the bust than relying mostly on straps. Edwardian has a pretty low bustline so you don't have to hoist the bust up super high like in the regency. The 1870s definitely have that short-waisted/low-busted look which I'd like to try out someday. I think you've got a lot of options you could play around with!
I love the look of this one. Unfortunately it is not in the era that I portray. I do 1780s as a colonial working woman. My sewing skills would be way too pathetic to attempt stays. But that said, I really do need a set. Problem lies in that I am a plus size woman and few shops offer my size. 😒
Ugh, that's frustrating? Are you beyond Redthreaded's size range? I know you probably don't want to sew your own but Rebecca of Pocket Full of Posies just finished her Augusta stays and they turned out really well. She's plus size and liked the pattern.
@@DixieDIY I have not looked into Redthreaded but I will. Samsons has a leather version of my side but don't want that. And I follow Pock full of Poseys. Thanks for your recommendations. I'm in the end of sizes for Samsons but the price is a struggle for me. I shall keep on keeping on! Thank you!
@@janehall2720 Yeah, any well-made specialty stays are going to be expensive. Even sewing them yourself is costly unless you manage to source good budget supplies. Whichever way you end up going, I hope your stays fit you well!
Love this vid! At 12:31 : what is that upside hook-like thing near the center front abdomen of the corset?
Ah, mystery hook explained at 15:37! 😁
Did you use buttonhole stitch to put on the hook?
I believe so, but some of them may have slipped into blanket stitches instead