I Made 18th Century Stays Completely by Hand
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- čas přidán 30. 07. 2024
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How many stitches does it take to make a pair of stays? Honestly, that sounds terrifying. But there are 248 bones and over 50 eyelets, not to mention any of the seaming or binding. It's a big project to take on, but it's been almost 15 years since my last every day pair was made. In the end, I worked on this pair for about a month with a few days off here and there for my hands. It's amazing to think of 18th century tailors that specialized in stays and would sit there doing this day after day!
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00:00 The Project
03:44 Odd Details
07:11 Cutting & Prepping
09:03 Sewing Channels
14:16 Seaming & Boning
18:33 Edges
24:26 Busk & Front
30:54 Reveal - Jak na to + styl
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Currently suffering through boning a pair of Elizabethan bodies so this hits a little too hard
I'm only about 2/3rds through the video but I just wanna say I learned something really important from this. While the result is extremely intricate and very elegant, the process is really practical and to the point. I'm the type of person who thinks way too much about a project and then I don't end up even starting because I see too many potential problems. The more I think, the more problems I need to figure out a solution for. And if I don't do that, I feel like I can't make it as perfect as I want. This video is direct proof that (with enough skill) you can just take the practical approach and make something really incredible. And with experience, I think that becomes even more true since then you can adapt to problems that come up while working more easily too. Let's hope I can put this knowledge into practice and finally get over my perfectionism paralysis.
as a Virgo, I feel your pain
@@dressmup1 as a dysfunctional Capricorn with Saturn in retrograde in the third house, I forgot where I was going with this sentence...
@TaylorTheOtter - I am like you, except without sewing skills. ^_^
I have that exact problem. That's why I have watched probably every video from youtube of making stays. I have looked many many pictures and asked questions from other hobbyists. Finally in the process of actually making a pair!
What's fascinating is that as soon as she wears the stays, we immediately see the silhouette of the period, the body is immediately transformed, we're looking at a portrait or an engraving from the 18th century.
The shape of the silhouette is everything. That's why so many historical films don't work: they don't wear the right undergarments under the costumes, and even with an 18th-century-style dress, the overall look of the body remains modern.
Thank you for mentioning the knot thing! when I did ballet i would sew my ballet shoe ribbons with the knot on the outside because I have gotten blisters from the tiny tiny knot of a single thread rubbing against my ankle
Gosh Nicole, these stays are truly a work of art! From the materials to the stitching and the fit, everything is so beautiful. I also watched Bella Mae's videos recently where she made a pair of 18th century stays by hand and now it's starting to itch for me too, even though I've never made anything 18th century lol. And indeed, in Dutch the seating position is called "kleermakerszit', translating literally to 'clothes maker's sit. '
Goh inderdaad ja! Nooit over na gedacht!
@@random200 Geinig he?
Thank you for taking some time to talk about posture and self care while working on a project like this! We shouldn't have to suffer for our art. :) The 'ugly' insides are so fascinating, I love this in depth step by step. And the final result is impeccable in craftsmanship and practicality!
Question, has a museum ever asked about incorporating your recreation videos along with the inspiration exhibit?
Body mechanics / efficiency professional here. You absolutely can sit cross legged for long periods of time as long as you're looking down! It's looking up in that position that would be a problem. If you have the forward curl in your mid/low back but a backward curl in your neck, the contrast there creates strain. Sitting on a slightly raised cushion, so your pelvis is on the cushion but your feet are not, can help too. And like you said, take breaks, change positions sometimes. Take care of yourself, humans aren't statues. What a gorgeous piece! I'm in awe of the level of detail here. Awesome video!
I've hand sewn four pairs of stays now and your stitching is BREATHTAKING. Absolutely exquisite. Side note: for those who want to sand the edges of their boning, use an acrylic nail file! They're designed to file very similar plastic material. Sandpaper works but takes forever, 3/10, do not recommend.
Obviously you put a MASSIVE amount of hard work into this, but to someone who doesn't sew, this still feels like magic. Watching you do all the fiddly bits that I can't imagine my hands doing is so so cool. ❤
Trust me, I do sew (mostly daily wear garments nothing like this) and this still seems like borderline witchcraft to me
desperately taking notes because my time travel novel is not writing itself and research is turning out to be super difficult
edit: honestly, I wish information on especially lower class clothing and children's clothing throughout the ages was more accessible, and books didn't cost like 50 bucks
Did the same watching Morgan Donner's 17th c stays, lol!
This is a literal masterpiece. You've been a top-tier artisan for many years but I think this pushed you into new territory!
You do have mad skills! You have created a very handsome garment. I love these make-it videos. I find the voiceover explanation of what you are doing so interesting. Thank you, Nicole for this delightful video. Hope your hands recover soon.
Beautiful job! The Tailor's way of sitting makes a lot of sense to me. I always find myself sitting cross-legged with a board across my knees when hand sewing. Now I know that there was a good reason for it. 😊 Thank you for sharing your process with us!
What a labor of love!! I can’t wait to see what they look like with the dress, and hear more about how they function vs your other stays!
Man. The workmanship on these stays is exquisite. You blow my mind on the regular. Brava my dear!!!
Only because I try to emulate your pronunciation (it is so beautiful) for learning better English, I keep noticing that you say ACROST instead of ACROSS. I was intrigued by this and checked the Internet for the correct use of these words. Looks like the word ACROST, while not recognized by English dictionaries, is sometimes used as a traditional variant. Interesting.
I cannot comment on the stays. They are far beyond my comprehension of accuracy and beauty. I just look at you working as I would listen to a virtuoso musician.
This turned out great. The contours it creates are perfect, I can't wait to see the final look with the outer garments.
What a beautiful garment! Your stitches are so even and it looks like the stays will be sturdy and last a long time. I'm so impressed by your sewing and cobbling skills.
The visual of all those stitches is making my skin itch I think I'm allergic to high quality hard work
Oh my god, those stays are amazing! I watched you making parts of these on Twitch, so I've been looking forward to seeing the end result. I knew they would be beautiful, but, wow, they really exceeded my expectations! I'm curious to know how they feel compared to other stays.
I am making 1780s half boned stays from the Redthreaded pattern right now, so I can really appreciate how much work went into these! Mine seem so simple in comparison. I'm going to try to remember that whenever I feel like it's getting tedious. I'm grateful that I only have to do 30 or so boning channels, not over 200!
Your back stitch is perfection, holy shit. It's wild.
Utterly stunning! Love how the white silk tape accentuates the curves of the boning and stitching
That is stunning! It’s aesthetically pleasant perfection & it was absolutely fascinating to see it so masterfully constructed! Thank you!
Wow, what a perfect fit to your body! The more I sew, the more actual tailoring impresses me, there is just so much you need to understand and remember about anatomy and fabrics in order to achieve the perfect fit, especially for corsets (including stays)!
I find that hand-sewing is easier on my neck and back than sitting at the machine. I was in a taxi accident 5 years ago and was left with neck and upper back issues. If I alternate between machine and, say, sitting on the couch hand-sewing, I can have a longer day of sewing than sitting at the machine alone. Also, the more hand-sewing I do, the more I realize that, while it can be time-consuming, it's actually not as slow as I thought, and you do get a lot more control over how sleeves ease in, for example, or how trim goes around a corner.
5 mins in and I'm getting up to do some seam finishing! lol. really feeling the hand stitching right now.
Rewatching this while tackling the Redthreaded 1780s pattern! Of course no one "needs" permission to use a sewing machine for any project, but I'm grateful for the reminder just to shut up my own worry and perfectionism.
Thank you so much for showing your process. I'd never studied an extant pair of stays so it was very enlightening. I'm in the process of making my first pair of stays and now realize that I may have done a few things incorrectly. It's all sewn on my machine and, according to the pattern instructions, I needed to make sure I sewed the boning channels in the same direction, top to bottom. The instructions also said to alternate sides when sewing the channels starting from the center and working my way out to the seam allowances. I did start to sew section by hand. But after taking about 2 days to stitch the boning channels in just one piece I gave up and went to my machine. My hands thanked me. I was quickly running out of patience with hand sewing despite finding it to meditative. I really want to bin the whole thing and start over, but I don't have any more of that outer fabric, and I really like it. It was the leftovers of another project so I was working with less than a yard of it. I had a feeling I should have done a mockup first, but I didn't listen to my intuition. So, now I guess I'm going to finish them and learn from my mistakes. Though they're still at a point where I can make a few changes. Like changing way the tabs are boned. So, fingers crossed I get it done before the end of the year.
These turned out so well, and I love the shape that this silhouette creates. Absolutely stunning work!
What a beautiful piece Nicole! Thank you for sharing the whole process with us!
I feel like this belongs in the guinness book of records or something.
It’s a piece of art. I hope it’s comfortable.
You made this so easy to follow. In many sewing videos it's hard to see what's happening but I almost feel like I could reproduce this given a starting pattern.
My fingertips hurt just watching this! As always, Nicole, you are amazing.
Oh, your poor hands! Be gentle with them for a couple of days. The stays are divine - utterly divine. A piece of beautiful art. They had such pretty under-things and support garments back then.
Stunning workmanship - as always you continue to amaze and inspire!
This work was worth the effort, subtle bodily asymmetry can be catered for easily. Nice rhythmic stitches and the binding is neat.
Birdy
I’m equally fascinated and terrified at the thought of making stays, hopefully I’ll get there one day
This is incredible! I am in awe of your workmanship!
Will those stays are amazing. I cannot fathom the hours you work or how hard the work is. I really enjoy the fact that you like doing things the old fashioned way. Wonderful work!
WOW! Your hand stitching is SO neat! I wish I could do it that neat!
I’m in awe! Such a beautiful and brilliant craft. This piece is already so incredibly beautiful. Much respect, it has taken you a lot of time and dedication to get here ❤
These turned out jaw droppingly gorgeous, fantastic craftsmanship!
I love this! I'm binding some Regency short stays as I'm watching! Excellent work! You're truly an inspiration!
This is an absolute masterpiece! Your dedication to your art and mastery of your craft is incredible
Thank you! That final reveal, brought a tear to my eye.
Omg, the result is stunning
Absolutely stunning work! And thanks, too, for the advice about the ergonomics of doing that much hand stitching!
Amazing work. I am always in awe of those who take on making stays and corsets.
Those look pretty comfortable. And so neatly done, good job.
What a work of art!
That is stunning!
That is a masterpiece! Thank you for sharing!
These are STUNNING!
Stays are my favorite thing to make! I haven't made mine entirely by hand but I've done all the binding by hand and I find it so rewarding at the end!
I am gobsmacked! They came out so stunning and fit so well and the amount of work put into it.... You amaze me 😍
the stitching on these stays in so satisfying
Gosh those stitches are neater than many of the machine stitches one sees nowadays...
Wow, the fit on these is spectacular!!! It looks fantastic.
This is giving me the courage to want to try hand stitching my own stays. Mine are less boned but goodness these look so beautiful done by hand.
It's so beautiful!
Funny that in french sitting crossed legged is called "s"asseoir en tailleur" which means litterally...sitting like a tailor. Will definitely try it for some future sewing projects^^
Absolutely beautiful!! I’ve been looking forward to this one for days ❤❤❤
Your sewing is so beautiful. Your stats look amazing. I watched the whole video and then came back to comment after subscribing to your other channel. I really like how you explain what you are doing. And give us all the important details. Such beautiful work.
I'm just about to make my first pair of stays, and this video could not have come at a better time. Thank you so much for showing me so many things I needed to know!
This is art! This is stunning! Congratulations!!!
These are stunning
Absolutely beautiful work! Extremely impressive engineering in both the original and your own version! 😌
was shaking my head in disbelief as i was watching it start to come together, and then my jaw just dropped at the finale. this is INSANE. this is high art. please take a break after making this masterpiece u probably need one after all that work
It looks stunning!
They are truly beautiful.
Fantastic work!
I love how these turned out. That seam tape really sets off the look.
Thank you for talking through where it's important to be really precise and thorough and where it's ok to cut corners
Beautiful work and amazing patience to do it!
These look amazing 😍 Great timing with this video, I'm just starting an 1890s corset that will be completely hand sewn and this was very helpful.
I aspire to be at this level of craftsmanship 💕
Congratulation on achieving such beautiful stays! Every stitch! Thank you for sharing
An incredible amount of work!
Gorgeous! What a work of art !
masterful work
Very flattering. Also well made, the way your boned the tabs was fascinating.
That's a lot of work. I'm glad you talked about posture and pacing yourself so as not to wear out your hands.
Very flattering.
Gosh, so much work! They turned out amazing!
Oh MY Word!! That is a crazy amount of work! Absolutely beautiful results so I guess it's worth it. Just CRAZY amount of work! Thank you for sharing this endeavor!
Your hand stitches are so clean and even! I hand stitched only some parts of my stays last year but I used the same color as the fabric so they don’t are noticeable on the outside but the inside doesn’t look as good, but it worked
Looks amazing, great job
Wow are those gorgeous! I handstitched an Elizabethan pair of bodies with far less structure and larger bones between 2021 and 23 and holy shit this is beautiful
Wow. That’s an impressive amount of work.
These look really nice. You may choose complex options, but you make them look so easy!
Gorgeous piece; really impeccable work
They look very comfortable. I would have thought the whole thing was sewn by machine. Your hand stitches are so perfect.
Absolutely beautiful work, Nicole ❤
I was doing some drypoint engraving for like 6 hours today and my hands hurt so much .. I can only imagine how yours ache! I love his video. Thank you for including the sewing sounds, I love watching people sew to relax
I love the shape these stays give the body!
That level of skill and precision is just awe-inspiring! They are gorgeous!
I love watching your videos, they are so interesting and inspiring. And the stays are absolutely beautiful ❤️
Stunning work. ❤