60 Years of Stays: Trying on All My 18th Century Stays, 1740-1800
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- čas přidán 6. 07. 2024
- Because I usually research and portray mainly French and Anglo/American personas in this period, my stays are all in that vein. However, there are lots of regional differences in stays, in places where they were worn. This video also does not try to be a comprehensive video about the history of stays, but if you have any questions, let me know in the comments.
Want to learn more about the stays mentioned in this video? Here is all the relevant information!
Green wool stays:
1 - graciesews.wordpress.com/2018...
2 - graciesews.wordpress.com/2019...
3 - graciesews.wordpress.com/2020...
Pink wool stays (videos!):
1 - • Hand Sewing 18th Centu...
2 - • Hand Sewing 18th Centu...
Red wool stays: there's no blog post or video about these stays, but there are lots of construction photos on my Instagram. The pattern I used can be viewed here: www.scrooppatterns.com/produc...
White linen stays:
graciesews.wordpress.com/2018...
Image credits (in order of appearance, and left to right when two images appear at once):
1. Paul Sandby, A Lady Carrying a Kettle, c. 1755-1770, chalk and watercolor, Royal Collection Trust, www.rct.uk/collection/914389/....
2. Paul Sandby, A Lady Reading, c. 1760-1770, pen and ink and watercolor, Royal Collection Trust, www.rct.uk/collection/search#....
3. Henry Robert Morland, A Lady's Maid Soaping Linen, c. 1765-1782, oil on canvas, Tate Museum, London, www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/....
4. John Singleton Copley, Dorothy Quincy (Mrs. John Hancock), 1772, oil on canvas, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, collections.mfa.org/objects/3....
5. P. LeClerc and P. LeBeau, Cuisiniere nouvellement arrivée de Province…, 1778, hand-colored engraving on laid paper, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, collections.mfa.org/objects/3....
6. Flack & Lea Stay Makers, 1785, paper, British Museum, London, www.britishmuseum.org/collect....
7. F.L.J. Watteau and N. Dupin, La Virtuose sensible en robe à l'Anglaise…, 1784, hand-colored engraving on laid paper, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, collections.mfa.org/objects/3....
8. Published by P. de la Mésangère, Bonnet Toquet…, 1799, engraving on paper, Rijksmusuem, Amsterdam, www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/collect....
Want to support this channel? You can do so here: ko-fi.com/graciepatten
My blog: graciesews.wordpress.com
My Instagram: graciesews...
Oli's Instagram: paleooli?h...
Music:
"Sunrise," "Peaceful," and "Breeze" by Yakov Golman
Now we know that recorders are meant to play a lot more than Mary had a litter lamb. Absolutely beautiful.
This is a really cool visual guide, it's interesting how the way you cut your panels can have such a big effect on the look of a garment! Love your stays, they look amazing!
Oh, your 1780's stays are my favorite! Beautiful!
My "otp" era is mid to early 1700's but I lurv that curved front on the red. I try to pick stay patterns of that era and wear them with my earlier garments because history bounding lol I'm curious to try an Edwardian early 18th c mashup just to see how far I can push that vibe 😂
That sounds so cool!
I've thought of that myself!!! Specifically the straight front 1900's look with the bust and bum padding but like on top of maybe prow front stays - I feel like the shape of the stays/corset are incredibly similar, with no cups and a straight front it is very 18th century esque. :)
I like seeing the artwork, and your recreations together, and showing how the design morphs across time. Thank you for sharing this.
This is such a great breakdown of form and style from each period. Well put together and presented. Thanks for sharing this! I can see myself watching again in the future for reference when I forget which was which.
This was so soothing to watch and I loved seeing examples from each period!
This is the content I've been googling for!
It was very easy to tell the differences between all the styles as time marched forward, so cool that the different patterns are able to make such wildly different shapes. That's what I love most about historical corsetry for sure. I hope my stays come out similarly! Great video
Thanks! I'm glad the evolution of the garment was visible with this. Good luck with your stays!
昔の時代の衣装を見ることができて、とても楽しかったです❤️
ありがとうございます❤️
ahh, the 1770s-1800s are my favorite era, so glad to finally find videos about the fashion of that time!
It's really great to see a progression of these stays during the 18th century! What about those worn from 1700s - 1730s?
I haven't done a ton of research on that period (maybe soon!), but the stays of that period were pretty long with a high bust and a wide neckline, similarly to stays/bodies of the later 17th century.
This was a wonderful video and helped me see the progression of the silhouettes very easily! Thank you! I love your enthusiasm and your needlework is amazing!
Thank you! Glad it was helpful.
I love all your stays. 😊 They are so beautiful. 🥰
I am just getting in to historical clothing so I very much appreciate your video. Thanks Gracie.
Ugh, they're all so gorgeous! Thank you for showing a variety and explaining the evolving trends.
Fabulous work on all those stays! I'm partial to 1790's as I just finished a project on my channel from that era but I do love your 1790's stays! Simply gorgeous!
Thank you! I'll have to watch your 1790s videos! The dress and jumps in your thumbnails are beautiful
@@GraciePattenSewing thank you so much! I really appreciate it!
This was fun - thanks, Gracie! I've made stays from all over the 18th century for other people but somehow keep making 1760s for myself. One day....
What talent! These are so beautiful. I wonder how you made these. I do garment modern sewing and have no idea where I would start. The red one fits you so well, you can see how relaxed you are in it. Thanks for the content!
The third is similar to a pattern I was considering trying out, and now I think I might just have to make them. Thanks for sharing, they're beautiful.
Thank you! The red 1780s stays are definitely my favorite.
I love this. They look so nice on you. I would definitely like to see more of the different corsets.
My goal is regency era fashion but the red stays did look quite comfortable
This is a very educational video. Thank you VERY much. I am currently in the early research stage of making 18th Century Stays having just finished a hand-sewn 18th Century Linen Shift. So yeah, stays are next. I have the Costume Close-Up book. I am so glad to discover your channel. I look forward to more costume videos.
I'm glad it was useful! Good luck with your stays
This is such a good video! Thank you for sharing all your gorgeous pieces
This video is so useful. Interesting to hear your thoughts on your projects alongside the historical information. Plus, your stays are so beautiful. Great job.
the red ones are dreamy
thanks!
So happy that there are people like you who get straight to the point and explain things very well :)
Remarkable work ❤
You're really talented! Can't wait to be able to make those myself too :)
wonderful video!! so glad this showed up in my recommended, i'll definitely be checking out more of your channel!
yay! thank you!
This was really interesting, thank you!
I love this video. It's a great visual of the progression and you are so easy to listen to and follow what you're talking about. A Big plus! I always look forward to your tutorials. 🙂
thank you!
I’m currently making those Scroop Augusta stays so this was awesome to see! Thank you!
good luck!
This is lovely to look at, and super interesting!! I was wondering about the 18th century progression - it is a lot more subtöe than in the 19th century
This is such a cool video!
I adore this video, and I've been wondering quite a bit about the history and historical use of spiral lacing versus other kinds. Maybe you could talk a bit more about that at some point? keep up the good work!!!
Thank you! Maybe I will make another video about stays where I can get into questions such as this.
Thank you! I really understood the progress of stays through this time. Love to see more.
yay! I'll definitely have more videos coming (probably not until November though, after my final exams)
Sounds good. Good luck on your exams!
@@penniecormier8770 thank you! I appreciate that
This was realy helpful, thank you ^^
Lovely! I'm in the middle of making a pair of the Augusta stays right now--my very first stays ever. Currently working on eyelets, which really don't take that long individually, but it feels like there's a lot of them.
thanks! I know what you mean, those eyelets can seem to go on forever until they're done. good luck with your stays!!
Hi, first of all, thanks for this video ! Really interesting, and all your stays are so beautiful !! The 1790s one looks so comfy !
I’m curious about the Augusta stays : did you use the size recommend by the pattern, or did you size down ? I just bought it and have no idea how big the gap in the back should be (made a toile for the curvy version of my size and ended up having a 10 cm gap which I find way too big)
Edit : rewatching the video made realize that the answer of my question was in the video !! Sorry haha
Impressive!
LOVE this video
yay!
Love this comparison!
The Augusta stays are super comfy. I wore mine all day recently and was very happy in them.
The word for the late 18th century bust that you are looking for is, according to abby cox, thrusty.
@@SarahBent I thought of that as I was filming this! It felt a little odd to say it while I was wearing thrusty stays though lol
it's a cool video, I adore the look of stays and I always wonder if you could wear them under a blouse and a modern skirt? they look so confortable and the shape they gave (especially the 1780's and the 1790's) is so beautiful
thank you! I've worn stays out over modern clothes once or twice, and I would like to do so again, because they look nice. I've worn them under a sweater once (I think I didn't have time to change) and they look kind of odd under modern clothes (there is a defined ridge where the garment ends).
You are so cute! I want to make some regency style stays now. 🥺
After watching your videos I started hand sewing so much haha
Yay! Hand sewing is the best
My god they were so restrictive but still just beautiful..
Very interesting video, thank you for sharing!! Its funny, the way you speak reminds me a lot of my best friends cousin. Do you happen to have any Hispanic relatives?
Glad you liked it! I do not.
Gorgeous! Have you considered using a blunt needle for making lacing easier?
Oh, that's a good idea! Thanks!
i was wondering other then the augusta one what patterns did you use for all the stays you made? they look lovely! also amazing hand stitching! i'm planing to make all of mine hand stitched too!
Thank you! There is information about how I made all of the stays (including patterns) in the links in the description box, but the short answer is:
Green 1760s: drafted from Costume Close-Up
Pink 1770s: drafted from Mandy Barrington's book Stays and Corsets based on a draft in Norah Waugh
White 1790s: self drafted from a museum example
Good luck with your stays!
You are so talented! Do you always handsew? How important is historical accuracy to your practice and why? I am just curious, I am becoming interested in historical costume making and I am trying to figure out where I might sit. With what we are learning about posture and the effects on the body I think stays should make a comeback! My mother wears a backbrace to work everyday, I can't help but thinking functionally how it isn't much different than a corset.
thank you! I hand sew everything from before the widespread use of the sewing machine (though I have also machine sewed stays in the past). For me, I just find it very satisfying to have something entirely hand sewn and made with historical methods. I understand that hand sewing is not for everyone though, and people make beautiful garments with modern techniques. all that is to say, I like hand sewing, but I don't judge people who don't hand sew!
Obviously, all of them look beautiful to my novice eye; but watching you get into them set me wondering: were women expected to make their own stays? Or I guess for wealthier women, I’m guessing their stays had to be tailored to them?
Thank you! In the 18th century, stay making was part of the tailoring trade, and most women would get stays made for them (almost all clothes were custom made in the 18th century). Stay making is a specialized skill, and baleen is apparently extremely difficult to cut, so people were not making their own stays at home. There was also a significant secondhand market in the 18th century, so if someone could not afford new stays, they could purchase used stays and have them altered if needed. Abby Cox has a great video about clothes shopping in the 18th century if you want to learn more. Hope this was helpful!
ngl those 1790 stays look comfy af 😍
they're pretty comfortable!
❤️
Super helpful video! What do you use for lacing?
I used linen tape or my green and pink stays and a plaited linen cord for my red stays. The white stays use a cotton cord (I'm not sure that this is accurate though).
Gracie Patten Thank you!
Beautiful work. Do you think stays could be worn with some modern fashion?
Thank you! I've worn stays with a more modern skirt before, and I thought it looked cute.
I've been thinking about making a pair of regency short stays as a bra replacement to help with my back pain. Do you think they would look 'natural' underneath modern clothes?
That's a good idea! I bet that, if you made a pair of earlier regency stays with a more natural bust line, they would look natural under dresses and sweaters but maybe not under a thin t shirt.
Do you have patterns? I love them all so so much
The short answer is kind of? There are links in the description box to how I made all of the stays, which include patterns or references used.
I’m wondering, how does the level of back/shoulder suppport change over the decades?
Such lovely stays, just love them so much. It makes a female look like a woman. Thanks
What pattern or resources were used for drafting the 1740-1760s stays? I really want to make them now!
Edit: Okay never mind I saw where you listed your resources! Thanks!
I actually remade those stays and have two videos about drafting the pattern and making the stays!
@@GraciePattenSewing I'll definitely check that out, thanks! Also, I gotta commend you for showing the progression of stays in the 1700s. I couldn't find any other source that explained it this well until I found this video! Thank you!
I have a really big bust a small rib cage and shoulder/back problems due to how the bras are made and the size of my bust, which stay would you say is the most supportive and comfortable on the back and bust that I can wear under normal clothing?
How do you sew down the white strips on the seam of your stays? Do you just whipstitch them down? Or backstitch them on?
whip stitches, basically! I talk about it in this video: czcams.com/video/vcE5nNiscMc/video.html
i wonder if my mom used to wear this kind of corset or outfit hmm lemme ask her idk when ehehe
what do y'all use to lace your stays? my string keeps breaking. albeit I'm not using sturdy string, but i'd appreciate suggestions.
What do you use for the 1780s boning? Reed or synthetic whalebone?
I used synthetic whalebone
@@GraciePattenSewing Thanks 🙏!
What pattern did you use for the regency one
My pattern was self drafted (there's probably some more details in the blog post about it, linked in the description). If I remember correctly, I based my patterning on Jill Salen's book Corsets.
Regency stays, if you ever cross into the 19th C?
I'd like to make them some day!
What are the tabs for?
They distribute the stays over the hips without having to add shaping at the hips. Without tabs, the stays would dig in to the waist.
HAHA there is only one dislike on the whole video, really shows how awsome this is
terribly off topic lol but your voice sounds very similar to madeleine petsch(?)
that's interesting, I had to look up her videos but I can kind of hear it!
Dude those 1790s stays would make a good alternative for a bra
Have a good friend with a larger bust, and honestly she seemed to be more supported than a modern bra.
Please someone donate me the last Stay😭😭 Been binge watching vintage fashion CZcamsrs and Oh how much I wish I had Stays and corsets. I have a cheap bra that hardly suspends . It's painful.
I have a few tutorials for making stays yourself on my channel!