What Causes Orange Peel? - How To Fix or Prevent Orange Peel Paint
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2024
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So... What Causes Orange Peel?
Hopefully, you've already watched the video above. If not, I'll try my best to quote it below...
There are 3 main reasons or a combination of the three that will give you orange peel effect in your fresh paint job or, you may already have it on your stock car paint job.
1. Your Ambient Temperature.
Which means the temperature in the room that your spraying your project in ...also the temp of your panel.
2. Your Spray Gun Settings / Spraying PSI
When painting, you must have the proper gun settings, gun flow and spraying psi set. Hint... Wide open fluid flow, wide open and back 1/4 turn fan width and when spraying base coat clear coat paints or enamel you want to spray between 26psi - 30psi.
3. Your Paint, Material Mixture
Which includes your reducer temp, your clear coat activator/hardener temp. When spraying single stage enamels the same apply with reducer and activators. You need to make sure that you are using the correct additives when painting in certain temperatures.
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It's funny I'm 71 and still restoring like crazy, it's like therapy! Thanks for all the tips.
I dont usually comment, but from someone who used to do occasional painting many years back and just wanted a reminder of techniques, these videos are top notch, very to the point, concise, and most importantly accurate, and even better, your speaking technique is right on with your painting technique, thanks so much for taking the time, I hope you do well with your ebooks.
Thanks bro!
One comment I heard that helped put everything you mention into proper perspective was "after everything else is correct-- conditions, gun settings, paint mixed, loaded and ready to spray-- the painter is performing a constant dance between orange peel from being too cautious and runs and sags from being too aggressive. A good flowing paint job gets the balance, the dance, just right." The analogy is apt, considering that when you're painting it almost is a dance of sorts... smooth, deliberate, relaxed, precise. You almost have to make early mistakes in the dance in order to know when it feels right. Painting yielding minimal orange peel or runs is an art as much as a science. Everybody gets good at it with practice. Don't be afraid to make early mistakes. They'll fix easily enough. It's fun when you get it right eventually.
I'm 56yo and from Australia, love to restore....but too old for that..should have done it in my teens, BUT !!! no internet then....so you young bucks....get into it, There will always be auto-mobiles......and plenty of enthusiasts out there.....
Anton Keys
57yo is not old.
A spray gun is not heavy.
Anton Keys its still young mate, you should be into your second childhood by now, its great fun, you get the gifts you want rather than need! All the best!
Still young. 54 spray full time.
I am just learning 1st time, turned 61 today, still feel like 21
Activators are either temp OR speed related. A low temp activator is a fast activator, high temp is slow.
Solvents evaporate faster in high temperatures, so you would need to use a slower activator so it doesn't dry too quickly.
Gun setups (tip size/PSI) and flash times are unique to the clearcoat you are using. Always refer to the technical data sheet for the specific product.
I'm only modding PC cases and in fact only using rattle cans - but man, I've learned loads from watching this guy's online tips. The quality of my results is vastly improved. Many thanks from Sweden dude!
Thanks for the awesome feedback!
I was looking for a remedy for orange peel, and yours is one of the first videos that popped up. I haven't painted a car, but I have been spraying a guitar that I am building, and I have orange peel. I started out using a detail spray gun with a compressor, but I ran into some problems. My compressor is supposed to be able to have enough pressure for the 1.0 tip on the gun, but I was only getting about 20 psi, instead of 28 psi. The lacquer wasn't going on evenly, and I didn't have it diluted enough at first, either. I switched to spray can lacquer, the same lacquer that I was using in the gun, and it spread nicely, but I ended up with orange peel. The temperature and humidity were good. I am going to sand down the lacquer after I have given it enough time to cure. Thanks for your video. You do a great job in explaining the topic.
thanks for watching! Check out VIP and get access to the #BossPainter community! www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/vip-offer/
Tony, just working through your old videos and amazed that you have spent so much time helping us all. thanks mate.
Thanks, Kev! Appreciate you checking my videos! Hey check out VIP as well! www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/vip-offer/
I have had problems with running, watching you I believe my air pressure is to low, going to increase my air and reduce the flow with a wide pattern, so tired of sanding I can't believe it.
This is a treasure trove of knowledge that I'm absolutely blessed to have stumbled upon. Thanks yo!
Thanks Man! Glad it was helpful! Learn How To Auto Body & Paint Like a Pro and get your FREE 85 Page Auto Body and Paint Manual at vip.learnautobodyandpaint.com/home
I'm watching this video in 2020. Are you still in the business Tony? I hope your a millionaire by now! These were and are great videos and a great help to us that like to DIY this stuff. I wish you great success and happiness!
😂 thanks bud!
Re painting my DC2 for my first paint job! I'm sanding down primer going to lay down the aqua metallic base with some ZTE color shift pearls from dip your car.
thanks for the view, Jesus!
Correct, Spraying distance is also a factor!
Air pressure can range from 29-34 depending on Gun and Tip size. You need a gauge to be constant, raising or lowing bye 2.3 psi can make a difference.
To achieve the air pressure correctly, we can adjust the air pressure control gauge and reading the number on it.
To achieve the width spread correctly, we can adjust the spreader adjustment valve and measure how width it is (by inch or cm).
To achieve the correct distance between gun and the surfave, we can measure it (by inch or cm).
But how to achieve the correct fluid debit or velocity?
What is the best indication / direction in adjusting the fluid control and how to know if the volume of the fluid's spray is right and properly? (whether is too much or too little?)
Tony is a good teacher
Great Job clear to point help me out on a DIY job doing right now thanks ....
I believe I heard the answer to the question I had throughout the video. Reading through the comments I noticed another gentleman have the same question. If you already see orange peel in your base coat should you wet sand it down before you apply your clearcoat? Currently in the middle of trying to decide what to do before I put on my clearcoat right at this very moment.
also you have to block sand all your primer, and spray medium wet coats so that the clear lays down flatter.
of course...
Booth Air Flow Speed. has a lot to do with flash times. In one booth you may have to wait 5min in another with the same product you may have to write closer to ten. Touch your tape to truly indicate how its setting up. I find its best to go a little early with Low VOC clears. Im in Canada so I don’t know about National Rule clears anymore.
This was very helpful tutorial, thank you very much!
It's good to have You here!
Thanks again Toni for the straight up explanation.
its much easier to be orange peal free by proper gun set up . Adjusting air pressure and your fluid tip rate . takes some practice to lay it flat but it sure beats color sanding a buffing . Just an FYI
Wouldn't normally comment on someone's ways. But you are very good at explaining and technical issues, from Australia and keep up the fantastic work mate
You can color sand and buff if it's a SOLID color... I've never really had problems with orange peel in enamels because I tend to lay it on thick and glossy. They say if you color sand metallics you have a chance of blotching and clouding the paint.
Thanks so much Tony. This video helped me graduate to spraying some serious Clear Coat. Sprayer pressure and settings are crucial. This last coat was my best and will hardly need any cut and buff. Just be careful not to over spray and get runs. I'm still working on that. Might be a little too much volume.
this is awesome information. I just did my first clear coat job and I did have bad orange peels. I am in Canada and it was -5C when I did the hood. I used a medium activator but I think I rushed my 3rd coat and that is when the orange peel came out. I will be wetsanding it in the next couple of days but I just wanted to know more about orange peels and you've got one of the most informative video I have found. thanks brother...
Tiny, I so appreciate your videos. I have learned so much from you . repainted a 30’ cabin cruiser, and it looks AMAZING!!
At point 3:34, you said "in a hot environment you want a low temp reducer". I think you meant "slow DRY" reducer, not "low temp" reducer (big difference). Most companies I've bought paint supplies from have slow medium and fast dry reducers to choose from depending on the temp you're spraying in. If you're shop is colder, use a fast dry so it doesn't run, if medium temp, use regular reducer and if it's fairly warm inside your shop, you want a slow dry reducer so the paint doesn't dry too fast and flows properly.
Good job, you cover all the high points.
Great information for those who love their cars and like to do things at home.
thanks tony, your presentation was excellent.
Thank you!
You can use a primer sealer. It does both.
Concise and to the point, thanks...
tony, you deserve everything you have. and I agree with suke. you do sound like a seasoned professional lecturer. your advise is simple and correct.
Dude, thanks for your awesome feedback!
thanks for the free 85 page auto body manual
great video man, appreciate the effort you put in
Yes of course!
Thanks Tony, I just opened my own shop and your videos are very helpful in a pinch.
Mishler's Performance & Auto Detail
Hoping your business is doing well all these years later!
Excellent video Tony.....Thank you
How can we relate viscosity and atomisation psi
Looks like you no what your talking about keep it up brother .
Know
Excellent. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.
1.What temp should my paint shop be
2.paint gun what setting number should I have it on
Look at the paint can for the best temperature, then use the activator/hardener for the temp you are spraying at. I always use a viscosity cup for consistent results. The viscosity cup I use is a time of 7 seconds. No matter what temperature, the constancy is always the same, so I always get glass. The settings on your gun varies by gun, just learn how to set it up, you should set it up every time. Its all about atomization. I don't use HVLP, I use a siphon cup, BBR for any top coat (its a clearcoat gun but I use it for single stage paints also). I run it with an 8 inch pattern at 8 inches, adjust the pressure so you spray an even oval.
By the way, somewhere between 75 and 85 is best in my opinion. If its too hot, your paint flashes to quick and skins over (environment for orange peel) and run the risk of you sweating and sweat getting in your paint. Too cold, and your paint doesn't flash enough and you spray onto a still fluid coat that also makes orange peel because it will never flow out.
I prefer two stage urethane. Urethane basecoat goes on thin, dries fast and covers well. Too many people try to put a lot of clear on to give it a "deep finish" and so they can color sand. Trying to put down too much paint only gives you orange peel. Has to do with the surface tension and flow out. Too much pressure, paint too thick, or not enough atomization, pushes the large drops into the surface, creating dimples (orange peel). Thin it right, and your successive coats lay on top of the previous coat with the proper flash time, allows the paint to flow out due to surface tension, thus reducing orange peel or eliminating it all together. If you don't really know what you are doing, it is better to put your clear on a little heavier so you do have something to sand if you get runs/sags/orange peel. If you go for a thin glass coat and make an error, you will sand through for sure if you have to fix something, and will end up having to repaint that whole panel over again.
One more tip, if you are spraying metallic paint. Spray the backs and jams of your doors, fenders, and hood first, then hang them on the car before doing your painting. You will have a more consistent finish. Spraying them off the car, a lot of the time, the metallic will lay different and will look like a different color when you see it after it is assembled.
This was a ton of help! Thank you Tony!
Great job, my young friend. You made a clear and understandable presentation in a friendly, likeable, and professional manner. I am now a new subscriber to your channel. Well done. I'm checking out your free download and if I like it as much as this video, I'll sign up for your VIP course.
I think you meant to write "ambient temperature", my friend. Other than that, great video! Keep it up!
Fantastic work information.
Great job.
Thanks
great vid, always wanted to try my hand at auto painting,
Many thanks....Excellent Presentation....👌
Choose Activator based on Ambient Temp, or surrounding temperature. Do not choose Activator based on the size of the object!
PSI per gun or the clear itself requires the proper tip size. Clears are all different based on Viscosity of the product. Some guns / settings ,prefer some guns over others.Match the gun to the clear your spraying. Once you get the proper sweet spot, all you have to do is focus on arm speed and distance. The gun should do the work.
Awesome vid, Tony. Thanks a lot!
Thanks, Joseph! Don't forget to grab your free report if you still haven't: learnautobodyandpaint.com/free-autobody-manual
Reply ·
Great tips. I've learned a lot with your videos.
Thanks, Mick! Hey, have you grabbed your free report yet? learnautobodyandpaint.com/free-autobody-manual
Can do and That's correct. Base water, clear solvent. On a side note not sure it's necessarily temps had it a high as 74. I'm leaning on gun settings but ill knock it up a few more and give it a shot....sure does get hot in that mask lol
Wish he would have touched on reducing clear with amounts and final coat. Overall great vid thank you
Nice job brother. You're a good teacher and I am going to subscribe to your cause so bring on some more good stuff. Do you have a separate site for question/answers? God Bless
Tech Bible......young but from a Master. Talk to a friend, in the bus. bout ur lighting. Wil lift ur game, audience reaction & following. Bless ur Day from down-under, Aus.
This should apply for plastics and rubbers, right?
Great informative video, The Nob heads on here saying "Bullshit" quite frankly haven't got a clue ....... Keep up the good work.
Fast=Cold, Medium=70-80 Slow=90+ Fast means that it will kick without the ambient temp or to get it dry uber fast in warm temps. Medium is the temp you wanna shoot and Slow is when the temp is too high and you need it to dry slower because the paint can even start drying before it actually flows out. Tony got that mixed up.
Great series, great content. I.m a hobbyist who's learned much from your videos!!
(psst: ambient)
Yeah I know lol :) Thanks
wait wait... I thought you wanted fast reducer in cold, and slow reducer in the heat. Medium was... well medium. Hence lower temperatures slow down flash off, and hotter speeds it up. So if you want to flow out in the heat... you use a slow flash reducer... right?
Yes!
Great video Tony! Thanks.
So learned for one so young ! 😉
Excellent video, Tony!
If you color sand the base coat with like 1500 grit or 2000 Grit paper before clear coating would that minimize orange peel
Johnny! I have in-depth info on that in VIP! Check it out: www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/vip-offer/
Good job teaching !!
great video man! first video i actually finish the rest i saw were boring.. hey you have anything fixing/filling deep holes in clear coat after wet sanding and buffing!?
I would use a medium reducer.
Still my go to the second I have an issue! Take a guess.
Thank you for this! I want to repaint over an orange peeled factory paint job. What kind of spray gun works the best? I have an old DeVillbiss bottom feeder which has worked pretty well in the past, but would like to try a new gun. Thanks!
He doesn't fit on CZcams because he's professional, makes sense, and he knows the material he's demonstrating. That's just not allowed here.
Excellent tutorial!
Thanks, Matthew. Hey have you grabbed FREE 85-Page Auto Body And Paint Manual yet? learnautobodyandpaint.com/free-autobody-manual.
I think you ment slow not low ...
But I take a look at the sight...
Nice vid and clearly explained
Thanks Tony I’m having bad orange peel using turbine system hvlp haven’t found solution yet
sometimes on the job don't you have to match Orange Peel to the factory in order to blend it
Awesome and informative. Appreciate it
Well done! This helped me a lot! Thank you!
+farmalmta Awesome glad it helped!
6-10" depending on what kind of painting you are doing, blending, candy or basic etc...
Great vid Man!
Thanks, man! Appreciate it!
Please,give some advice on how to fix pin holes.I work in Saudi Arabia and the humidity is very high in our area.aThank you in advance.
Well presented Tony.
Yes I know this... lol. As you see I am NOT a scholar hahaha!
Thanks Tony, great video's.
yes of course.
lol... there goes my college degree... oops!
very helpful thanks bro,
No problem buddy! Check out our VIP program how it’s helped many people like you and get the ability to complete amazing DIY paint jobs from home on budget. www.learnautobodyandpaint.com/
yo dude this was very helpful thanks
When I attempt to go to the web site, I get message stating that the SSL is not recognized.
Nice tips.
great explanation, thank you
Thank you Tony. I just spent $1400 on a paint job that I am very unhappy with and I cannot identify the issues in order to combat. I will make a little video and upload it to me youtube. Can you please help me to identify what the problems were?
1. Primer gun setting
2. Paint gun setting
3. Clear coat gun setting
You didn't define "cold" or "warm" days. 65 F, 70F? 75F? What is cold? It means different things to people in Texas or Minnesota.
Slow reducer and activator not low.
Thanks you are great man
Thanks for your support! Really appreciate it!
Great video one question what causes tiger stripes in clear it also went on dry and rough. Thank you
Nyc vedio ,keep it up
Very Well Explained!!!
Glad you liked it
love your videos man👍👍
Very useful information