We take a look at many different ways to edge find accurately on the milling machine. Some ways are better than others and have both advantages and disadvantages.
I’ve recently started learning my way around a mill. I’ve used a lathe for a while and have some decent basic skills there. I got a 3 piece edge finder with my mill and have never seen anyone use it like you just did. With no one to mentor me, that was a huge ‘Ah-Ha!’ moment for me. Thanks for sharing that - you just got another subscriber!!
They make an edge finder where the end piece is 0.5" instead of 0.2" so it can find the edge of any diameter rod (just remember to subtract 0.25 and not 0.1)
Yes thank you . that would be a more robust tool for sure , but i am but a simple man lol . The .100 leaves less for me to mess up when it comes to math
My quick go-to way is to chuck up a centre drill or other short true-running shank and advance it to the edge until I can no longer see light between it. The change is sudden. The paper method I was taught was wet a bit of newspaper and stick it on, wait for the mill to grab it.
Some random comments for newer folks: The paper techniques with the spindle running are highly discouraged (in many workplaces banned) because the risk far outweigh any benefits; if they even exist. For anyone learning do yourself a favor and turn the spindle OFF. If you have no access to proper XY location tools: use a marker/dykem and rotate the tool by hand grabbing the tool holder. Move in slowly and stop when you just scratch the paint. Make diameter adjustments as needed and wipe/scotchbrite the paint off as required. For the Z-axis set the tool slightly lower than a reference object (gauge block/pin, 123 block, dowel pin, etc) and raise the Z-slowly until the reference object slides completely under; zero Z and adjust for reference object. Both techniques can get within tenths without the risks... Also regarding electronic edgefinders: operation with the spindle off may affect accuracy by way of runout. If your electronic edgefinder does not support spindle on operation, rotate it by hand (please consult each tools manual for proper operation and rpm limitations).
That is a good tip John. I will remember this. My go to thing I use alot for finding the side edge is I took a 1/2" piece of ground drill rod that I milled off exactly .250. then I move it slowly into the work piece until I feel no wobble. It's been good enough for keyways.👍
When I'm in a hurry, I mount a center drill in the chuck, and dial the Y until I'm pretty sure I'm close to the center. Then start the mill, and sneak feed down the Z until I barely touch the work, then move the Y back and forth until the center drill mills a short line on the part. Then I can move to the center of that milled line.
One thing I like doing for small to medium shafts. Is to use the pointed end of the edge finder. Be sure the quill thumb wheels are locked. Do both side and divide by 2. Also, rather than using thick paper and fingers near rotating cutters. Lick and stick cigarette paper to your work piece. For the top of flat work piece when doing light cuts. Extend quill until cutter touches workpiece, lock quill. Drop table .001 or .002. Or cigarette paper. Black Markers are you friend.
For round stock balance a small ruler using fingers on the top and gently feed down a small bit in a collet until it touches the ruler. The ruler will tip in the direction towards which the bed has to be moved to find centre. Once bang on the ruler will be level. This can be very accurate.
Look in the scheme of most jobs. Touching the side or top of the job with endmill is fine. Worked as a maintenance fitter machinist in a toolroom with 8 toolmakers and most just touched the side of job with endmill. I guess experience and a fine touch helps. Note: most jobs
Mention should be made of how true the drill chuck holds the edge finder and how square the head is set up as the latter will affect ctr at different positions of quill
@@Wrighmachining If run at the recommended speed of 1000 it will off center itself from vibration and centrifugal force. Besides , you can easily see when it is within .050" or better even without the wobble. I use them so much, that that extra step which has no function would drive me nuts. It's fine if you like to do it but I'd say it is not right to show it as if it needs to be done, for the nubies sakes.
Great question, I looked up its official name on Amazon and it's listed as this Fowler 52-577-100 Center Finder with Satin Chrome Finish, 0.375" Mounting Shank 10
@@Wrighmachining Place the paper between the dowel pin (dowel pin is not spinning) and the workpiece surface (side or top) and slowly advance the workpiece while moving the paper side to side until the paper is gripped between the dowel pin and the workpiece. Subtract 0.25 plus the thickness of the paper.
@@philcook9967 yes in a colit ! I can see how that would work . Thank you i will try that perhaps with a small conecting rod ( new ) that is .500 im sure of it .
You never showed a dial gauge to find centre for a hole or shaft or bar stock. Without a dro I set the dial gauge minus .100 thou for a .200 thou edge finder (wobbler in the uk) Then advance the .100 thou and you are ready to pitch off.. Started my apprenticeship in 1977
@@Wrighmachining It is a point of what the toolmakers taught me. We used cigarette paper in a pocket operation so would blow the pocket dry tear a piece off damp it and when it picked up you were .002" from the work.
Good informative video, but check your audio. There is a low frequency hum that keeps coming in when your doing things. It’s real annoying on headphones or ear buds.
You are on the cutting edge of centering. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Thank you ARW! Glad you enjoyed it :)
Damn got the spindle running with the paper method 🤯🤯
Lol, yup paying close attention to the fingers so they are not stuck in there :)
Very helpful thank you
I’ve recently started learning my way around a mill. I’ve used a lathe for a while and have some decent basic skills there. I got a 3 piece edge finder with my mill and have never seen anyone use it like you just did. With no one to mentor me, that was a huge ‘Ah-Ha!’ moment for me. Thanks for sharing that - you just got another subscriber!!
Russell great to hear you have a mill. It's crazey the possibility it opens up. Glad the video helped.
Have fun and stay safe
We used a cigarette paper and stuck it to the work with a bit of water ( or spit 😉 ). Probably a little bit safer than holding the paper.
Great point :)
I use cutting oil, cigarette paper is 0.001 too👍
They make an edge finder where the end piece is 0.5" instead of 0.2" so it can find the edge of any diameter rod (just remember to subtract 0.25 and not 0.1)
Yes thank you . that would be a more robust tool for sure , but i am but a simple man lol . The .100 leaves less for me to mess up when it comes to math
Great info, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it :)
Couldn't you make an adapter for electric edge finder to fit one of the collets you do have?
Great tips , and solid techniques for edge and center finding . 👌
Glad you enjoyed it, I'm sure there is more but gives a small snap shot of a few :)
Great info Thanks :)
Your welcome gregh
Thanks, I am new to machining and this helped! Thumbs up and subscribed.
Glad it helped Steve !
My quick go-to way is to chuck up a centre drill or other short true-running shank and advance it to the edge until I can no longer see light between it. The change is sudden. The paper method I was taught was wet a bit of newspaper and stick it on, wait for the mill to grab it.
I like the wet the paper idea!!. Way safer than the fingers in there :)
Some random comments for newer folks:
The paper techniques with the spindle running are highly discouraged (in many workplaces banned) because the risk far outweigh any benefits; if they even exist. For anyone learning do yourself a favor and turn the spindle OFF. If you have no access to proper XY location tools: use a marker/dykem and rotate the tool by hand grabbing the tool holder. Move in slowly and stop when you just scratch the paint. Make diameter adjustments as needed and wipe/scotchbrite the paint off as required. For the Z-axis set the tool slightly lower than a reference object (gauge block/pin, 123 block, dowel pin, etc) and raise the Z-slowly until the reference object slides completely under; zero Z and adjust for reference object. Both techniques can get within tenths without the risks... Also regarding electronic edgefinders: operation with the spindle off may affect accuracy by way of runout. If your electronic edgefinder does not support spindle on operation, rotate it by hand (please consult each tools manual for proper operation and rpm limitations).
John you raise some very good points to consider for us all . Thank you for weighing in.
That is a good tip John. I will remember this. My go to thing I use alot for finding the side edge is I took a 1/2" piece of ground drill rod that I milled off exactly .250. then I move it slowly into the work piece until I feel no wobble. It's been good enough for keyways.👍
Looking Good!
You bet that sticker does. Thanks again for the swag.
@@Wrighmachining Glad it finally made it.
When I'm in a hurry, I mount a center drill in the chuck, and dial the Y until I'm pretty sure I'm close to the center. Then start the mill, and sneak feed down the Z until I barely touch the work, then move the Y back and forth until the center drill mills a short line on the part. Then I can move to the center of that milled line.
I do this in a pinch for grease holes etc, works well!
One thing I like doing for small to medium shafts. Is to use the pointed end of the edge finder. Be sure the quill thumb wheels are locked. Do both side and divide by 2. Also, rather than using thick paper and fingers near rotating cutters. Lick and stick cigarette paper to your work piece. For the top of flat work piece when doing light cuts. Extend quill until cutter touches workpiece, lock quill. Drop table .001 or .002. Or cigarette paper. Black Markers are you friend.
Thank you neil good advice!
For round stock balance a small ruler using fingers on the top and gently feed down a small bit in a collet until it touches the ruler. The ruler will tip in the direction towards which the bed has to be moved to find centre. Once bang on the ruler will be level. This can be very accurate.
Thank you mbak, great suggesting
Look in the scheme of most jobs. Touching the side or top of the job with endmill is fine. Worked as a maintenance fitter machinist in a toolroom with 8 toolmakers and most just touched the side of job with endmill. I guess experience and a fine touch helps. Note: most jobs
Thank you jay, well said.
Mention should be made of how true the drill chuck holds the edge finder and how square the head is set up as the latter will affect ctr at different positions of quill
Yes , so many add ons , wish i could go back and amend the video . Great place to start though :)
There is no need what so ever to keep flipping the edge finder to make it wobble.
Personally I like to do it as preference to gauge speed approaching the edge and slow down. For the actual workings of it you are correct.
@@Wrighmachining If run at the recommended speed of 1000 it will off center itself from vibration and centrifugal force. Besides , you can easily see when it is within .050" or better even without the wobble.
I use them so much, that that extra step which has no function would drive me nuts. It's fine if you like to do it but I'd say it is not right to show it as if it needs to be done, for the nubies sakes.
@@billshiff2060 thank its always a pleasure when other competent tradesmen offer good advice. Thank you
What is the name of that tool you used to find center before the straight edge
Great question, I looked up its official name on Amazon and it's listed as this
Fowler 52-577-100 Center Finder with Satin Chrome Finish, 0.375" Mounting Shank
10
I thought a haimer was too much at .001 but the edge finder is .002? Didn't know.
Ahh the Pursuit of precision
those electronic ones are available in 4" long with 3/4 body...
Thanks knight:)
Cigarette paper 0.001" - handy in more ways than 2.
Lol, very true ;]
When using the paper, wouldn't it be safer to use a 1/2" dowel pin instead of an end mill? Also the dowel pin wouldn't damage the work piece.
Can you elaborate?
@@Wrighmachining Place the paper between the dowel pin (dowel pin is not spinning) and the workpiece surface (side or top) and slowly advance the workpiece while moving the paper side to side until the paper is gripped between the dowel pin and the workpiece. Subtract 0.25 plus the thickness of the paper.
@@philcook9967 yes in a colit ! I can see how that would work . Thank you i will try that perhaps with a small conecting rod ( new ) that is .500 im sure of it .
You never showed a dial gauge to find centre for a hole or shaft or bar stock.
Without a dro I set the dial gauge minus .100 thou for a .200 thou edge finder (wobbler in the uk)
Then advance the .100 thou and you are ready to pitch off.. Started my apprenticeship in 1977
Good point , thank you . :)
@@Wrighmachining It is a point of what the toolmakers taught me. We used cigarette paper in a pocket operation so would blow the pocket dry tear a piece off damp it and when it picked up you were .002" from the work.
Good informative video, but check your audio. There is a low frequency hum that keeps coming in when your doing things. It’s real annoying on headphones or ear buds.
Thank you for the had a up. Really appreciate the feed back. I will make more efforts to fix the issue in videos to come.
I saw a funny looking hat and had to stop...
Hahaha , fedora . Glad ypu enjoyed