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In the 60's when I started, we put a 1/2 dowel in the spinning chuck. Coated it with the good old "red grease pencil" ( the kind where you pull the string to access more tip. Kept in shirt pocket right next to 6" scale). You slowly touch side of part with spinning dowel. When red wax appears on surface, you're 1/4" away from edge of workpiece.

quiet please lol

Hold the part upright in the mill vise between two vee blocks - one against a stop. Find the center and cut all 4 sides in one setup with the side of the cutter all using the same offset. It will save the corners of your endmill & get a much better finish.

Can you show some methods finding the center from each side without a dro.

Couldn't you make an adapter for electric edge finder to fit one of the collets you do have?

When using the paper, wouldn't it be safer to use a 1/2" dowel pin instead of an end mill? Also the dowel pin wouldn't damage the work piece.

They make an edge finder where the end piece is 0.5" instead of 0.2" so it can find the edge of any diameter rod (just remember to subtract 0.25 and not 0.1)

The equivalent of the guy who swaps a fuel injected engine into a vehicle then slaps a carburetor on it because he thinks it's simpler. All you had to do was jumper the thermostat wires on the controller and hook up power and ground and you'd still have all the safety systems in place.

We used a cigarette paper and stuck it to the work with a bit of water ( or spit 😉 ). Probably a little bit safer than holding the paper.

I loved this wild experimentation, you were totally safety minded, you were doing it outside not in the Kitchen!

So cool you built this with your kids! 😊 This experience from just building on the cheap to the produce grown. 🤙

I thought this video was for lost foam, not plaster....

Great info Thanks :)

I had that problem with my moped many years ago but I just put a piece of thin plate from a soda can around the shaft to get a tighter squeeze. I think it held up quite well but not as new splines.

So cool! Thank you for putting this out there.

As a machinist, from a safety standpoint I was screaming this whole video. Holding rotating equipment at thousands of RPMs is just plain egregious. Add to that the potential pinch point between your hand and the tool post makes this whole process unthinkable. Please, anyone watching this video, DO NOT replicate the actions this guy took here. The fact that you survived is the truly amazing thing here. This process should ONLY be done with properly rigid holders. AT THE VERY LEAST, use a Jacobs chuck in the tailstock, NEVER your hand. I cannot stress enough how unsafe and terrifying the actions you took are to me. Never should hands be this close to rotating equipment.

I have seen another guy do some very tight tolerance stuff with this process and I can not understand why anyone would do a different process like PLA etc.

I use the smallest harris cutting tip to cut 25mm plate @ 330mm minute 45bpsi oxygen and lpg @ 10psi

Do you have a video that's opposite were you take rough cut square 1in by 1in 9 in longstock and make it round on a mill?

Good job,👍👍

Friend, I think your work is great. If you buy a sandblasting machine. Your work will be more perfect.

wow!!! great vid , thanx 4 posting/ sharing this !! its cool the kid is interested / helping. we all nd. 2 share knowledge , u can never b 2 smart or have enuff money !! ( say no 2 ... convenience stores... go to supermarket , farmers mkt. , or , best ... grow ur own !!)..thanks !! saw great bumper sticker, read.... kill your tv... how true..

Cool video been a long time I worked with Cast ports.

Job well done. I suggest using an air gun instead of sticking your head into the machinery to blow out the chips.

Petro bond is good but until they reduce the cost of it, I will stick to green sand castings.

Nice one thanks

Rural King store has a medium grade sand that does great. Its very fine. I bought a small cement mixer for mixing adhesive sodium bentonite and it really mixes it all fast. You can get this mixer at Harbor Freight stores. It really does a quick job of mixing. I use talc for parting.....I have good luck and hardly any blow holes in the castings...

Would u be able to cast something for me?

I've never heard of this. You did an amazing job. I will definitely be using this technique.

Areia pode ser fina pra mergulha o izopor.

Mate thanks for posting.......I'm leveraging off your posts to tackle some of my own casting. A lot of people show only successes which you can't learn from, so thanks for showing and analysing your failures so we all can benefit.

So the transformer is a step down transformer, but you are using it as a step up transformer? That is not recommended, one reason is the primary windings are usually wired close to the core to obtain opimum coupling, now you are winding secondary there, this will cause higher losses-in the form of heat, I would get a thermal imaging camera to make sure you are not exceeding the 150deg on your specification there. Ideally you would use a phase convertor that ALSO steps up the voltage, if such an animal exists?

What is the power output or rms current of the phase convertor?

Instead of the tap magic, try some denatured alcohol or turpentine. Lots cheaper and smells better. The DNA evaporates off and dont make a mess at all and prevents chip weld.

Looking forward to seeing the rest of the truing stand build! PS. the blue/pink insulation board panel foam is also polystyrene foam - the extruded form of it (XPS) rather than the expanded bead type (EPS)

polystyrene is a polimer styrophoam is made out of, not the end product so both low density expanded styrophoam and uniform extruded foam insolation panels are both made out of the same material polistyrene, the only difference is that low density packing material is expanded from plastic pelled by overheated steam while uniform insolation foam is directly injected into a mold in liquid foam state ps is only visable on styrophoam product made out of pellets for recycling, and many supermarket food trays have the same marking while being the same kind of foam as your insolation panels you can also buy polystyrene sheets for vacum forming or injection pellets or 3d printer filement in solid state . it is also part of abs and hips plastic composition anyway nice project you making thre

Your pouring costume is great. Viewers who might try this should remember the basic law of foundry work which is "Iron (steel) bounces off your skin, all else STICKS!! and boils skin for a long time til you dig it off with pliers". Good looking castings!

I hope you enjoy using it. Only one negative point, some of the commentary was unintelligible due to background noise. Otherwise, interesting, I’d not heard of a passive greenhouse before.

У вас хорошо получается 👍

Really nice build, very detailed and clear explaination... keep nice videos like this comming... Saludos from Baja Sur Mexico

Americans are the people in the world

Put the gas closer

Yep, I like it. No messing around and something to enjoy using and showing off for years.

I saw a funny looking hat and had to stop...

Nice work. I don't have any idea of your friends accuracy requirements but the dimensional stability of aluminum is questionable and a good fine grain cast iron or semi steel would be a better material if properly stress relieved. Would the Styrofoam pattern/full mold process work with cast iron?

What you spray on foam before cnc foam

This came up in my feed today. Very interesting. It's been some time since I tried my hand at some lost wax casting. I can see the advantages of being able to easily shape the foam - and that it is readily available - compared to the wax. I'll have to check out your other videos on the subject.

You stress about having appropriate PPE & yet your forging area has a gasoline can sitting 3 feet away. You might want to make sure the work environment is safe also. Also I'd suggest getting a class D fire extinguisher at the handy for those ohhhh crap moments. They can & will happen.

I see that this video is about 1 -1/2 years old but I still thought it was worth mentioning that your level is .0002" (2 ten thousandths) between graduated marks on the vial, not .001". The vial was made to indicate .0002 over a 10" span, in other words, the distance between the marks on the vial represent .0002" (2 ten thousandths) rise over a 10" span. Very sensitive level for sure, mine is .0005"/10" (2.5 times less sensitive than a .0002"/10" but still plenty good enough for the job).

Just noticed there is a typo in the title - loat instead of lost.