I Hangboarded TWO TIMES A DAY For 90 Days
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- čas přidán 27. 05. 2024
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In March, I set out to try Emil Abrahamsson's viral hangboard routine. The unique finger strength training method suggests using a hangboard to load your fingers twice a day, every day, for thirty days.
However, in the same day I planned to start, I suffered possibly my worst climbing injury yet. I tore my middle finger pulley while crimping on a small right hand hold.
In this video, I cover what happened over the next six months - including how I used Emil's hangboard routine to help rehabilitate my finger and return to climbing at full strength.
After an initial period of complete rest to reduce the inflammation in my finger, I set out to try out Emil’s Crimpd protocol for the summer. I would weight my fingers as often as I could without it hurting or aggravating my healing pulley.
When I had a good structure, I would hangboard once in the morning and once in the evening, and my experience with this protocol spanned sessions in the van when we were on the road, and bouldering gyms worldwide.
If you are a climber looking to improve your finger strength, endurance or overall joint health, you might like to learn more about the unusual approach that Emil shared.
00:00 Introduction to Viral Hangboard Routine
00:20 Emil Abrahamsson Explains His Finger Strength Method
2:20 My A2 Pulley Injury
3:20 My Plan to Hangboard Every Day for Rehab
3:58 The Hangboard Routine
5:05 How to Download Crimpd and Win a Year's Free Crimpd+
5:30 How Much Weight to Hang
6:20 My Experience with the Protocol for Finger Strength and Recovery
9:40 Strength Testing My Fingers
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Hey, I've had a few questions about the device and app I used to test my finger strength at 09:50. It's called a Tindeq Progressor and shows a live feed of the force you generate. I reached out to Tindeq and they've provided a $10 discount for us. You can use code HMB10 at checkout to claim your discount, if you'd like to purchase one.
I brought my hangboard to rehab, I trained hard the 3 months I was in rehab, I can now climb v6-v7 and am sober! Happy the rehab allowed it.
Going sober is probably the best thing I’ve done so far, keep at it bro! I’m on the journey to V5 !
That's so wonderful and great to hear. I bet keeping on climbing is gonna help you stay on track 👊 and if you ever get injured now you have the perfect example of getting through that without fully stopping either!
Just getting over a finger injury myself, can confirm that working towards recovery is a fantastic motivator!
Right?! Hopefully your finger is feeling better - nothing quite like the post injury psyche of finally getting back to climbing. 😆
@@hannahmorrisbouldering it is thank you! The other part of the psych for me is getting outside
I’m recovering from what is likely A2 and A3 partial tears. You doing this video has really helped me make the choice to really do the protocol as opposed to thinking “yeah, I should probably do that” but not committing to it.
Well done for being the “everyman” in the climbing content space!
Ahhh thank you, I hope your pulley tears are quick healers and don’t keep you away from climbing for too long & I hope the No Hangs help. 💪
I brought my hangboard to rehab, I trained hard the 3 months I was in rehab, I can now climb v6-v7 and am sober! Happy the rehab allowed it.
@@Ericxnugz that’s amazing to hear! 💪💪
I really love what you said around 7:50 that you just enjoy climbing to climb, instead of training for a goal, because I feel similarly! And training to recover from an injury or to prevent further injury so you can get back to normal and climbing for fun is really motivating
the editing on this vid is really sick! 🔥
Appreciate it! Worked on it for a while so I’m glad you liked it ☺️
True
Do you edit all these by yourself?? :O @@hannahmorrisbouldering
Amazing focus on your rehab this summer, it’s paid off and allowed all the crazy videos we’ve just filmed in USA :)
Happy you feel better! Keep it up 😊
Thank you! Hoping the finger continues to improve in time for the winter season 🙌
So proud of you! Keep it up! Luv ur content!
Thank you so much ☺️
Small recommendation to anyone planning on doing this with an ultra light/small set up.
You can buy several meters of resistance bands (tubes) for around $15. (I recommend going for bands that are around 2-5 pounds at 200%. Heavier is worse.)
You can buy 100 micro zip ties (for cable management or the like) for $5
Cut the resistance bands to ~4 inch segments and stick the bulbous head of two zip ties into either end. (You will need to crimp another zip tie around the ends to prevent the loops from popping out. You can also you rope.). Attaching these loops to caribineers and a crimp block gives you a way to consistently pull the same weight without heavy iron weights. If you need to up the weight, you add another band. Too heavy, remove a band from the caribineers.
It also has the benefit of being repeatable unlike guessing how much you are pulling with a hangboard or an edge. The only caveats is you need to have a way to always pull the same distance (I use a length of paracord) so you don't rip the rubber or the zip tie loops.
If you climb outside, don't leave zip ties in the sun. They might snap on you.
Thanks for giving an injury version, it’s motivated me to try it dispite niggles.
First try felt amazing, it didn’t hurt at all and I could feel the blood flow 😮.
Really interesting, thanks for sharing!
The no hangs are a classic rehab protocol, so this looked like it came at a perfect time for you in retrospect!
Those fingers sure look healthy and strong now! 👊
Thanks guys 🤌 looking forward to putting them and my new found momentum to use again in RMNP sometime. Or using them to beckon you over for a long weekend in Font in winter. 😆
Thank you to Emil for providing the inspiration for this concept, and for his intro clips - you can watch Emil’s original video here 🎉 czcams.com/video/sBTI9qiH4UE/video.htmlsi=99NAL7r9WH1qsXV4
Tangentially related, I had elbow tendonitis issues which totally disappeared after two months of straight bar hanging twice a day.
Ahhh interesting!
This is fascinating to hear - i struggle with some elbow pain on both sides as well. What did your routine look like?
@@alecsyogacorner Sorry for the late reply. It was not dissimilar to this routine. I would do the following routine twice a day. First active hang for 1 minute, 5 minutes rest, then inactive hang for 1 minute. In total that would make 4 minutes of hanging a day. Usually either when waking up and in the evening. Or when I got home from work and before bed. Actually at first I couldn't quite do full minute hangs, and I did maybe a routine of 3x 40seconds.
The active hang just means you activate the shoulders. Inactive was just you try to relax every muscle in the body. I can't say which of these is better but this is what I ended up doing.
I have also been doing this for almost 3 months now, I didn't have any injuries I just wanted to keep my fingers healthy as I've been bouldering a lot outdoors this year. I really enjoy the protocol and would say my fingers feel good considering the increase in climbing this year. I definitely feel it's a nice thing to do and I will carry on doing it. Lately I've been finding that my fingers aren't opening up like they have done before on small holds and I have more trust in them. This could obviously just be because of strength gains from trying harder boulders but this protocol gave me confidence to try harder as my fingers just felt good.
I've gotten a meniscus tear on my left knee. Been thinking to hangboard while I can't climb, but I was afraid of getting injured. This video really helps a lot! Thank you Hannah 😊
P.S. Greetings from Chile!
Ah no! Hopefully your knee is healing up quickly and it doesn’t keep you out for too long. Injuries suck 🥺
Recovering from a similar injury, did they repair the damaged cartilage or cut it out. I may be able to offer some things that helped me get back to climbing, or things I wish I did.
As always, an excellent video 😁
Thank you :D
Love it guys!!!
Not sure if its been mentioned, but Hooper's Beta also goes into a deep dive for this subject as well for those interested
That's super interesting ! I've never hangboarded yet but you sure make me want to start 👀
I’m actually really happy with how my first proper sustained hangboarding experience went. Let me know if you notice any improvements if you do ☺️💪
4:04 famous dogs of climbing cameo
LEO 🥰🥰🥰🥰🤩🤩🤩
Surprised more people didn't pick up on this!
there was one clip from my local gym, Momentum!
that's awesome you came
We really enjoyed it 😎
@@hannahmorrisbouldering I’m so glad :)
That purple v6 at 7:56 is a v1 in my gym.
Wait... that is my gym! Hope you had fun in Colorado!
Yeaaaaaaaaa, we loved our climb there! Hoping to return to Colorado soon. So many beautiful outdoor crags and gyms to explore still! 🎉
P.s Epic content as per! Always love the Emil collabs hes my fave 🤫
Thank you! Emil is great 🤩
so so sorry if I missed this info in the video, but when would it be okay to do your climbing session? for example if I do a 9am hangboard session, then a 3pm session at the climbing gym, could I then immediately climb right after the 2nd session?
Great info again. I've put my hangboard on my stairs so I stop and hang when I go past. I like the sub-maximal thing, as it shouldn't detract from climbing sessions. Signed up for Crimpd, hopefully I win free lifetime membership
That's a great idea! Definitely helps to cue the consistency. That’s always what I’ve struggled with. Good luck with the Crimpd+ ☺️
I recently just hurt my right ring finger by pulling too hard on a pocket, this came in the right time, and is giving me a glimmer of hope that I can still continue climbing through rehab
Oh no! Sorry to hear that. I was convinced I’d be out of the game for ages with my A2 but I’ve been so pleasantly surprised with how much I’ve been able to adapt my climbing around injury. I hope you find the same ☺️💫
If you injured you lumbricals between the pinky and the ring finger you can tape them together and still climbed, that's what I did when I injured my ring finger in a similar way.
@@hannahmorrisboulderingThank you for your encouragement 🥹
@@RM-xq7gfYou hit the nail on the head. Wasn’t sure what part of my hand I injured, but after briefly researching the lumbricals, it’s definitely those tissues. Will tape my ring and pinky together for next time, thank you!!!
Omg I watched this video yesterday and today I did a very crimpy climb and all my fingers hurt a bit (some more, some less) - might have strained one or both ring fingers I think. So latest now I will adapt the training to recover and strengthen the fingers.
Interesting, to see this protocol used as a recovery tool. 👍🏻
It kind of worked out perfectly. Really happy with my injury progress 🎉
Thank you for making this video! In the Crimpd app, did you use the "Hangboard Isometric Holds" or "Hangboard Isometric Repeaters" ?
Gunna give these a try. Been struggling with chronic PIP capsulitis for years now.
Hope it helps with that! I also struggle with swelling in my PIP joints and have noticed less inflammation and greater range of motion with the protocol - however I had/ have been climbing less overall after the injury so perhaps it could be related to that. It will be interesting to see how it goes these next few months. Either way, I hope you find it useful 😊😊
@@hannahmorrisboulderingfour months on, how are your fingers feeling?
Something that seemed apparent to me, was noticing high performance athletes of any sport/athletic, was they were either compelled or driven to push themselves and train beyond a sense of balance and recovery.
I feel that fostered the myth that age has something to do with athletic ability and recovery.
But it seems more they just wore out and injured their body over that period of extreme competition.
Whereas someone that trains with a non-competitive priority, and pays attention to the signs their body gives, when it is too much,
can continue and improve over decades.
I am 100% sure that’s the campus board at The Front in Salt Lake, bad luck (for me) that I wasn’t there to meet a climbing celebrity at the same time!
It is! Incredible gym - I couldn’t believe how big it is and such fun boulders. 🥹
I've got a "Grade 1 pulley tear" on the A2 on my left, gonna give this no hang thing a go and i'll try to report back in a couple of weeks to see how the fingies feel
Thanks for the awesome content like always
You're very welcome! Hope your finger is feeling better soon - injuries suck :(
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Yeah me too, been gone 3 weeks already but gonna try to start lightly touching the holds again today :P
@@Bobbzorzen ahhhh best of luck!
@@hannahmorrisbouldering Thanks!
I tried many times to hangboard more than 2-times per week but the pain in my finger tendons increases too much. Just not worth the risk for me. I don't know exactly the reasons behind this though, maybe because I am a slightly heavier climber the the average (83 kg)?
I did Emil's low intensity hangboard routine once per day for 90 days coming out of an injury. Did not skip a day. I'm still not really sure if it made a difference to be honest.
I've also been doing for 2 months (been climbing for about 2 years). Averaging 11 times a week (once on 3 days, twice on climbing days). I have PIP Synovitis on both middle fingers which got me to start doing this. I still have synovitis on both fingers, but I do feel like my fingers are generally healthier aside from that. Don't have any accurate measurement on finger strength, but I'm much more confident on crimps and my hangtime went from 20s to 40s in 30 days or so. In this time, I went from projecting v5/6 in a day to flashing/getting it within 3 attempts.
My question would be do you or Emil intend to continue this after 90 days? Is there any data beyond 90 days to quantify the benefits?
Emil did a follow up video on his original version after having completed the protocol (on and off) for 2 years. That might be an interesting watch for you. I’m excited to see how a month on healthier fingers feels and what the gains are - I can see myself continuing with them if that’s a good experience ☺️
@@hannahmorrisbouldering awesome! I'll definitely check it out. Glad to hear about your fingers, looking forward to more of your awesome videos!
finger curls are worth looking in to for PIP synovitis, helped cure mine.
@@PIXEL7atm yup, I've been doing those. Thanks for your suggestion!
Hey I recognize proj braj! Love that route
🥳🥳
Are they 10 seconds each hang for 6 hangs each session ?
You get better and better with your content! By the way, I saw Alex Puccio in one of the clips. I'd absolutely love to see her on your channel!!! Whol's with me?
So nice to hear, thank you! You might want to keep an eye on the next couple of uploads. Alex might just be joining me for a session very soon ☺️😆
3:43 if i was to search for this set up, what am i searching for please? Is it a good alternative if you have no where to set up a hang board? Love the vids!
YY vertical triangle is one option with old rope and barbel weights
most hangboard companies sell one - often called a no-hang device - I think that one was a Tension Block, there’s also a Lattice one, Friciticious one, etc. You just attach some weights to the bottom, usually using a weight loading pin.
I like them a lot, they put a bit less stress on your shoulders in my opinion, and they’re better for working up in small weights (e.g you can pick 10kg off the floor, but it’s quite hard to measure a way to hang that low weight from a hangboard)
What app/device are you using to measure the strength test at the end?
It’s a Tindeq progresser. We have a link with a discount in the description ✌️
Did you have day for only hangboarding?
What device and app do you use to do the force measurements?
It’s a Tindeq ☺️
5:43 looks like TCH in Tilehurst, Reading. Familiar!
How did you measure the strength? What app and gear? Thank you
We used a Tindeq device and their app to measure the force ☺️
What tool did you use to measure your crimp strength at the end of the video?
It’s a Tindeq Progressor, attached to a portable hangboard. They’re great! ☺️
Are you warming up before the hangboard sessions?
No specific warm up before! Maybe I’ll do my pulse raiser or something before hand sometimes ☺️
What App do you use for your finger strenght Test? :)
It's the Tineq app and force plate. There's a link to their site in the description where you can get some money off :)
I am trying to understand "roughly" how much work and hard you had to push. Do I understand correctly that each session you did 6 hangs? I assume that each one like on a 20mm hold for 7-10 seconds. Also, it sounds like you were doing 80% of bodyweight, so not completely hanging. I would assume that you did like 30-60 second break between hangs. Does this sound like a typical session, or am I way off?
The intensity really depends on your level and if you have injuries issues or not. Personally, I have just restarted to climb slowly after a long break and i do 6 to 10 hangs on differents holds of the beastmaker 1000 (something like 3 runs on half-crimps 20mm, 2 runs with 3fingers open and 2 to 4 on pockets). In terms of timing, I do 7 to 12 seconds of effort and rest for the rest of the minute (basically 50sec). Finally, for the intensity, it is really really light, 40 to 70% of bodyweight. You need ti listen to your body and adjust, this routine is just about putting a really small amount of tension on your forearms and fingers.
Sorry for my approximative English and I hope it helped ! :)
Very interesting. And what a lovely dog🐾🙂
He was the cutest! Glad you liked the video 💫
@@hannahmorrisbouldering He was.... ? I'm so sorry. I'm sure he was the best dog ever.
This made things worse for me. Maybe it would have been okay with less load (I wasnt measuring it) but what ended up happening was I prevented my pulleys from recovering fully and l went on a chain of 5(!) Different A2 strains. Same timeframe as you March-September.
I tried the two a day painfree lifts for a month or so before going to physio and they were skeptical it would aid rehab and would potentially harm recovery since white tissue which takes 48-72 hours. I switched to doing tendon glides throughout the days in between the every 3 days of progressive loading rehab sessions which improved blood flow and range of motion. I suspect that was a similar benefit of the 2x no hang routine for you.
There's no telling how your rehab would have gone without the protocol. It might have healed in the same amount of time, faster, or slower with a different protocol. I'm skeptical its not much more than placebo given my experience, physio advice, and the Hooper's beta breakdown of what could be happening with the routine. I only started improving when i dialed back volume, increased rest days, and carefully progressed my loading
You were definitely using too much load. I had a long history of multiple back to back finger injuries and as soon as I started doing daily hangboarding at extremely low intensity it cleared up within a few weeks. When I started I wasn't even pulling down, the weight of my arms was all I could handle without feeling it straining in my fingers.
@@ComputerManDanMillerHow long did it take before you could start seeing improvements? I've been trying it out and I seem to be in the same boat as you were that I can only put the weight of my arm on one of my fingers. Also, what level of pain is ok? One of Hoopers Beta's videos said 0-3 out of 10, but when I do that it seems like my finger still feels like it's not recovered by the next session.
@@matthewrichey7729 It very quickly got like 20% better, probably within like 1-2 weeks. After that it was slow but very constant improvement, probably another 10% or so every week. I started only doing open hand and 3-finger drag until I could do half-crimp with my arms weight at like 2 on the pain scale, uncomfortable and aware it was hurt, but not actually hurting. Then I just starting slowly trying longer duration hangs at the same super low intensity depending on how my fingers felt that session. Do a bunch of open hand before and after to get lots of blood into your tendons and speed up the recovery.
@@ComputerManDanMiller did it feel like your fingers were able to fully recover in-between the sessions?
@@matthewrichey7729 Easily yes. It's all extremely low intensity and fairly low volume. It's about equivalent to a good finger warmup.
I can't enter the Link to download the app 😢
Is that trying on phone or desktop? I’ll look into that for you ☺️
On phone, thank you very much.
@@hannahmorrisbouldering😢
I started this too a few days ago I've already noticed an increase in my strength, I've never been able to pull stronger, let alone finish a campus board, I'm so sore haha but I'm loving it!
Hannah! Were you in SLC, Utah????? I swear you were at my regular gym in some of this! I wish I would've been able to meet you hahaha
Edit: I know for a FACT you were in SLC at Momentum lol. Bummer I missed you
Yeaasss! We’ve been exploring the gyms in the SLC area this week and really loving it 🥹
@@hannahmorrisbouldering awe yay I'm so happy for you!
So it's only a rehab taining method?
No, it’s great for strengthening too. But during the time I was injured, I used it to rehab the injury. ☺️
@@hannahmorrisboulderingWhat should the pain level be during the no-hangs? Or should there be no pain.
What is that app at 10:00?
It’s the Tindeq device and app :)
@@hannahmorrisbouldering
Oh dang
Wanted to ask the same thing, directly ordered it 😂
So what was the test results after 1 month? Nice video :)
I've not started that video yet. I'm not currently doing the protocol every day - I've been on a climbing trip with friends and taking a bit of a break from the hangboard but I'm psyched to start training finger strength again :)
Thanks :) @@hannahmorrisbouldering
Is she Swiatek?
1:12 the board really said -__-
Wait you mean they give away to 1 person out of the 100k downloads? If that's really the case I mean... I might as well play the lottery...
Out of the people who download the app via the link in my description ☺️
@@hannahmorrisbouldering aah that's much better 🙂 well that did redirect me to the play store, and then the account has to be created through the app so I'm not sure how it tracks that the link to the play store eventually led to that specific account, or how to check that it was indeed tied given my advanced privacy setup... Well for the odds I'd win anyway, nevermind 😅
I wouldn't lift those weights shoeless!!!
Why is the tail of your dog cut off? It has no medical use....
misleading thumbnail considering this routine didnt help ur finger
90 days ago I was taping my injured finger. Now I’m not. I said the protocol did help my finger rehab, and I say that in the video.