Learn 100+ Climbing Techniques With Just 4 Movement Concepts
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- čas přidán 20. 06. 2024
- There are hundreds of climbing techniques! 💯
If you take footswaps for example, we can think of at least 5 common methods (hop, roll, twist, tablecloth & step through), but there will be many more subtle variations on these and infinite variables based on the foothold used, body position or the angle of the wall. 🤨
This means learning the mechanics of any technique in climbing, while useful, won't fully teach you how and when to use them, plus why understanding ‘movement concepts’ is more powerful for becoming highly skilled at climbing! 🧗♀️
The idea goes; that when you understand the concepts or the 'laws' of movement, the correct climbing technique will fall into place and this is what we are going to show you in this video. 👊
What does this mean for you? Well, learning about good technique means you will be able to intuitively adapt to the common scenarios of climbing; for example, if you understand the "direction of pull", multiple techniques such as laybacking, heel hooking, rock-overs, relaxed arms, and even grip positions become more intuitive. 🙌
That is why we think understanding the 4 key climbing concepts in this video, you will be able to not only unlock, but understand, hundreds of climbing techniques and adapt to infinitely more situations in climbing. 💪
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0:26 Concept 1: Direction of pull
5:58 Concept 2: Timing Momentum
9:10 Concept 3: Anticipate the end Position
11:51 Concept 4: The triangle base
Using bands to explain vectors is genius. I’ve always struggled to explain a vector to someone without the math/physics background
As someone who sucks at equations I appreciated it as well lol
Great video! The only thing that I miss are some exercises in which I can focus on these four key concepts.
So here are some exercises that helped me:
1) Direction of Pull + 4) Triangle base
"Robot": you are only allowed to move one limb at a time, while your body is completely static. As soon as you have four limbs on the wall again, you can move the rest of your body at will. This helps me to find good triangle base positions in which my direction of pull is optimal.
2) Timing Momentum
"Every move is a dyno": whenever you move your hand, the other hand has to come off the wall as well, even if it returns to the same hold. This taught me the idea of the dead point and forces me to think about my hip movement with every hand movement.
3) Anticipate the end position:
"No adjustments allowed": you are never allowed to adjust your grip or your foot placement. You are allowed to pivot (rotate your foot), but not to adjust the position in which your hand or foot touches the hold. This helps me to move with purpose and foresight.
All these exercises I do on relatively easy boulders, so I can focus just on the exercise. The point is not that they are a huge challenge, the point is to really focus on optimal movement. I think it is important to not only understand all of this abstractly, but also experience how it feels. Also, this practice builds up intuition, so there is less thinking and hesitation on harder climbs, freeing your mind to focus on all the new hard stuff.
If you're German speaking, there's a book by Alpenverein Österreich called "Kletterspiele" with games and exercises for techniques. Quite playful as the name implies but therefore also loads of fun.
The colored arrows are a great idea for visualizing your explanations, keep using them!
Excellent basics video to build off of. You should make this into a series with a video for each concept discussing different techniques that help you achieve the concept. Especially for newer climbers there are multiple techniques (like say drop knees) that aren't intuitive. Would only have to list/show the techniques and then climbers can research them further. to learn all the little tips and tricks.
Agree, can be easily turned into a masterclass where applications within each concept can be expanded!
Bro this is honestly one of the best videos ive seen. Easy ways to explain dynamic concepts, good visualization, great editing. Congrats bro.
Im a begginer, so im gonna watch this a couple more tines.
Great comments too. Love the climbing community.
Learning concepts over techniques is such a wise way to learn! Like you mentioned, it allows for individual problem-solving rooted in broad-fundamentals rather than specifically prescribed movement. As a beginner, I'm really excited to bring these concepts into my practice : )
Thank you guys for putting together this video! I've watched a few others from you guys as well and have really been able to connect what I learned in them to my active practice and thought-process.
I specifically really appreciate the relaxed yet detailed and comprehensible way of teaching. I weirdly enough never took physics in high school but I was still easily able to follow the parts where you brought in the science.
These are videos I will definitely be coming back to and referring to as I grow in climbing. Thanks for introducing them to me (and many others who have been fortunate to find this channel).
Cheers!
one of the best videos on this channel! great stuff to broaden our way of movement instead of specializing further
Great tips! Definitely going into my CLIMBING TIPS playlist. Lots to absorb, but worth watching again and again!👍🏽
One of the best “technique” videos I have seen by far. I always find people get stuck trying to memorize techniques instead of understanding how they work and how to climb well in all situations
Very helpful! I barn door a lot and I think I have always been putting my flag foot in the wrong spot.
YI really appreciate the use of physics throughout this as well. You mentioned momentum, and, as a physicist, I feel obligated to also say that the separation between the holds at .86 the speed of light are all half of their rest frame. This makes most routes simpler.
this is so helpful for a newbie like me. thank you!
Love the break down - thanks!
I’ve watched hundreds of climbing videos this is the best free lesson video I’ve seen so far ❤ thank you! 🙏🏻
This is gold. I always find principles more helpful than techniques. Or at least, they allow me to get more out of techniques. Thanks
Impressive masterclass on climbing physics!!!! Thanks a lot!!!
To be honest, I often feel sceptical about videos showing technique tips when showing only certain problems, but this video is absolutely brilliant. Exactly as you said in the beginning, it's stuff like this that will make it possible for people to problem-solve the beta themselves.
An amazing explanation and perspective - thank you!
Excellent video and great selection of concepts to learn by heart!
I'm quite familiar with most of the things you've explained, and I've often used similar explanations when trying to help my friends solve a problem.
Especially the triangle base and direction of pull are extremely important for beginners in my opinion.
Thanks a lot!
That is a great video! Thanks
Awesome video and very helpful for beginners and even for experienced climbers when analyzing what went wrong when projecting something hard.👍
As a beginner this was super interesting!! Even though I already knew about some of these concepts, they were explained in detail like Ive never seen before. Thank you!😊
Very useful and well done. Thanks
Bouldering. So much to learn. These videos are great in introducing so many concepts. Especially for a newbie like me who is finding it very challenging to understand what needs to be done in order to achieve some of the climbs I'm working on.
Fantastic video and really helpful, I'm just getting started at 47 and loving it, I have good fitness and upper body strength but realised very quickly technique and finger strength are really important. I'm constantly in awe of watching people do the routes and how he managed it
This video is amazing!
Obviously its not groundbreaking information for experienced climbers but I really wish I had something like this to guide me when I started climbing. Especially useful to for newer climbers to refer to this when you're analyzing your own climbing movement and trying to understand what went wrong.
pretty intuitive! thanks!!
Excellent video! The focus on broad concepts is a good idea versus just individual techniques.
Awesome!! Thanks:)
Thanks! Basic concepts with tuning for your height, arm and legs length, finger strength.
Great video! Lots to think about. Can you make a video elaborating on and giving some more examples of the "timing momentum" concept?
Lovely tutorial video! very usefull!
Really nicely explained, like the science approach.
Excellent video yet again, one of the best I've seen.
My problem is that when I think too much so to as to follow this advice I loose my natural intuitive positioning. I don't always find it but when I do it's magical! So what I do is that I question myself afterwards why that move has felt good (or so bad).
Even if not clearly, it's nice to see someone talking about base of support and cog in climbing. Easily the most slept on principle imo
As a beginner this was very informative and helpful. Thank you for the breakdown of the concepts
Thanks a lot
Thank you.
Pro video great advice too🙏
Nice sweater
Nice!
Good video
For direction of pull you say perpendicular to the best surface then get your hips into the wall. A more comprehensive version is the direction of pull should be normal (in a purely geometric sense) the the best surface. This will dictate where your hips should be.
Can you make a video about how to increase precision while climbing?
I like the video my feedback is you should show the movements rather than only just talking about it. Sometimes you show it really well but sometimes you’re just talking about it or pointing at it when I was really hoping to see it be performed instead. It’s very easy to understand if you show everything. Talking and pointing is hard for me to fully understand.
Nice background music
The ultimate prop for your teaching: a stick with an arrow on it :D
Officially the first to be able to put this to test
Something I noticed I'm not sure about but are men also supposed to create momentum from the hips? Or from the bottom of the torso, a bit above the belly button? Men's center of gravity is a bit higher up than women's, I wonder if thinking about creating momentum from your center of gravity is more appropriate than focusing on the hips
Interesting idea. If we think of it from a muscle and joint perspective, it's easier to generate force around the hip joint than it would be in the spine. But I agree there would be nuances based on the center of mass.
are you really sure about the hips while doing the pogo? when I pogo i focus on "throwing" the weight of my leg
And when you so, you move your foot along with your hips. Maybe you don’t notice because you just “feel” your climbing. Which is great!
The pogo can be quite diverse. If you are throwing the foot, in many cases it should drag the hips along with it and that might be the secondary movement. But hip movement is the outcome we are looking for, for big moves. Without hip movement you won't get closer to the next hold. If you are close to a hold and want to avoid backwards momentum i.e. falling away, you can throw the foot just to maintain hip position and grab the next hold at the "deadpoint".
Excuse me, but that's not what vector is. Vector is an element of a vector space.
(said the mathematician)
🙋♂, not a mathematician here. Maybe you can help. My understanding was vectors are used to represent physical quantities that have a magnitude and direction. I got the idea from engineering illustrations, like the typical lever and fulcrum images we all see in textbooks.
Is there a more accurate way to describe/illustrate what I am trying to show?
@@LatticeTraining From physical point of view, vectors are exactly what you described in the video and I really liked that you mentioned them, as they truly provide great intuition for climbing.
From mathematical point of view, vectors may be more abstract.
The set of 3-dimentional physical vectors may be represented as the set of triples of real numbers, like ( -1, 15.4, 8) , ( 2, 6, 0.5) and so on, where the triple contains the coordinates of the point the vector points towards.
But nothing stops us from looking at more than three dimensions, for example ( 1, 2, 3, 4, 5) is a 5 dimensional vector. Its physically impossible (maybe) and yet - mathematically trivial (even a child can imagine a list of 5 numbers).
But why stop here?
We may have 10, 1000, a million, we may even have infinite dimensions and this is actually used for practical reasons, like doing linear regression in statistics (approximating points with a line).
Formally, a vector is "an element of a vector space", which is a special kind of set with a bunch of rules (rules like a+b = b+a, a+0 = a and so on).
The joke comes from the fact that physicists almost always use the lovely three dimensional vector, while mathematicians work in the general case, severely overcomplicating simple ideas in their abstract world.
terrible background music
Agreed but this music was contrasted less than the talking which was in its favour.
We should just outright ban background music unless it’s for comedy or suspense
Ou shut up
Ahhhh, now I can't unhear.
Indeed
Don’t hate xoxo
I really appreciate the content, but it always bothers me a bit when sports instructions involve a person talking and another person demonstrating throughout in silence, esp. when the demonstrator is a woman and the instructor is a man. Your collaborator clearly knows what she is doing; I think it would strengthen your video if it's more interactive between the two of you.