Love your videos Chad! I’ve learned a tremendous amount from you, Thanks! Is it possible to do a video on how to properly make mud for bricklaying that can withstand expansion and contraction? Thanks again!
Your attention to detail is awesome! We have a small chimney business here in Ohio its refreshing to see someone making it the best it can be. I see alot of bad liner installs they will put in one tee and leave the tee cap off for a clean out in a wood burning application the chimney runs cold makes a ton of creosote and Light wall liners are a nightmare for wood. We use to cover the unused flues at the top now I'm more selective on one's I will cover ran into condensation problems on flues that go below ground level some of them need to breathe. Great job new subscriber here.
Very kind of you. Thanks! I encounter the same exact problem here, people just don’t care. I will never install a liner that can be cut off with a razor knife. 🤣 I’ve actually removed a bunch of light wall liners that had already failed after less than ten years. People love them though, that 15lb box you get delivered ups is pretty convenient.
Thank You for the video. What high temp red are you using? I was taught two ways, high temp all connections, or don’t. I high temp everything except the termination where the liner and the collar meet. I was told years ago that it was left unsealed for expansion and contraction, but most of all to give the condensation a chance to dry up with fresh air so mold won’t grow and the moisture won’t deteriorate the liner from outside in. Idk how true that is. Majority of liner companies will tell you that silicone at the joints isn’t necessary, because it will dry up over time and become useless. I’ve been back to multiple jobs where the silicone is literally falling out of the joints a year later. I use the silicone just for piece of mind.
I think eventually I am going to have to go with a stainless liner. Its just a single story house so I am hoping it wont be too bad. Has the 8 inch flue in the chimney but they are all scaly inside. I have a newer oil fired boiler and from what i read is this would be the way to go.
Is it not under sized?...7in take off, 7in liner oval, reducing flow is dropping below the btu rating, plus taking another % off for adding the water heater?
It’s only like 2 square inches when ovalized slightly. This is well within what the manufacturer would allow me to do. At the end of the day, sometimes you do the best the situation will allow for. I couldn’t fit a 7” round here otherwise I would have installed one. Ovalizing 1” is perfectly acceptable.
In your opinion, do you think a 316 stainless steel liner will last for years to come hooked to a wood burning stove? Also how well do they hold up should a chimney fire ever happen? It is installed in correctly in a masonry chimney. Just curious and I trust your thoughts and opinions after watching most of your videos.
It depends on the quality of liner that was installed. I have personally pulled out corrugated liners that only lasted 8 years and many more that lasted a little longer. Unfortunately this is the type most install because it’s the cheapest and lightest. I do believe that a heavywall liner or light heavywall will last for many years, at least 30 I would think. We’ve yet to see a long enough sample size to determine. Smooth wall liner, if it’s not damaged on the install will probably last for slightly longer that the corrugated. A chimney fire will certainly destroy a cheap liner, maybe it wouldn’t be noticed immediately but after firing over a certain temperature the stainless starts to turn purple and blue in areas, these areas will start to rust through afterwards. I’ve yet to see a heavywall liner fail.
@@chadvaillancourt thanks for your reply. I ordered my liner last fall from Rockford chimney supply. It is a corrugated rectangle liner due to the size of my existing flue. Hopefully those are decent liners… I think I had around $1200-1300 in it and did it myself. Luckily it was fairly easy to install. Just a straight shot down the clay tile flue and into the tee.
It’s kind of steep for corrugated liner but if you did it yourself you definitely saved a lot. It will probably work fine for many years, just be careful while cleaning so you don’t tear it.
@@chadvaillancourt I thought it was kind of steep too. Although it was more of a custom size which I believe is why the steep price. I bought a rig for my cordless drill that has weed eater string with detachable poles that is made for it so I’m hoping no tears happen.
I’m getting ready to install a pre insulated 6” New England Chimney Supply liner. Should I be connecting my tee with the red silicone and stainless screws? The directions online are pretty vague. Thanks!
This is the crossover liner I guess so it’s a little heavier than the normal liner. I only have a 10’ run down a straight chimney to a free standing wood stove. I just smashed the existing flue tiles so I’m hoping it goes smoothly.
Sometimes, but it depends on the manufacturer and how consistent they are, along with how they were installed. They make a 5.5" liner for exactly what you're trying to do.
Great Job Chad. Appreciate your attention to quality for the customer. Need more professionals like you.
Thank you!
Love your videos Chad! I’ve learned a tremendous amount from you, Thanks! Is it possible to do a video on how to properly make mud for bricklaying that can withstand expansion and contraction? Thanks again!
Thanks for your support!
I will try to put out some videos on mortar in the future.
Your attention to detail is awesome! We have a small chimney business here in Ohio its refreshing to see someone making it the best it can be. I see alot of bad liner installs they will put in one tee and leave the tee cap off for a clean out in a wood burning application the chimney runs cold makes a ton of creosote and Light wall liners are a nightmare for wood. We use to cover the unused flues at the top now I'm more selective on one's I will cover ran into condensation problems on flues that go below ground level some of them need to breathe. Great job new subscriber here.
Very kind of you. Thanks!
I encounter the same exact problem here, people just don’t care. I will never install a liner that can be cut off with a razor knife. 🤣
I’ve actually removed a bunch of light wall liners that had already failed after less than ten years. People love them though, that 15lb box you get delivered ups is pretty convenient.
Where in Ohio?
Thanks for the lesson.
I learned a couple things.
Thank You for the video. What high temp red are you using?
I was taught two ways, high temp all connections, or don’t.
I high temp everything except the termination where the liner and the collar meet. I was told years ago that it was left unsealed for expansion and contraction, but most of all to give the condensation a chance to dry up with fresh air so mold won’t grow and the moisture won’t deteriorate the liner from outside in. Idk how true that is. Majority of liner companies will tell you that silicone at the joints isn’t necessary, because it will dry up over time and become useless. I’ve been back to multiple jobs where the silicone is literally falling out of the joints a year later.
I use the silicone just for piece of mind.
Same here, peace of mind. I use the mflex stuff because that’s what they send me most of the time.
@@chadvaillancourt I will have to check that silicone out!
Thank You.
I think eventually I am going to have to go with a stainless liner. Its just a single story house so I am hoping it wont be too bad. Has the 8 inch flue in the chimney but they are all scaly inside. I have a newer oil fired boiler and from what i read is this would be the way to go.
Exactly; most energy efficient boilers require a stainless liner.
Is it not under sized?...7in take off, 7in liner oval, reducing flow is dropping below the btu rating, plus taking another % off for adding the water heater?
It’s only like 2 square inches when ovalized slightly. This is well within what the manufacturer would allow me to do.
At the end of the day, sometimes you do the best the situation will allow for. I couldn’t fit a 7” round here otherwise I would have installed one. Ovalizing 1” is perfectly acceptable.
In your opinion, do you think a 316 stainless steel liner will last for years to come hooked to a wood burning stove? Also how well do they hold up should a chimney fire ever happen? It is installed in correctly in a masonry chimney. Just curious and I trust your thoughts and opinions after watching most of your videos.
It depends on the quality of liner that was installed. I have personally pulled out corrugated liners that only lasted 8 years and many more that lasted a little longer. Unfortunately this is the type most install because it’s the cheapest and lightest.
I do believe that a heavywall liner or light heavywall will last for many years, at least 30 I would think. We’ve yet to see a long enough sample size to determine. Smooth wall liner, if it’s not damaged on the install will probably last for slightly longer that the corrugated. A chimney fire will certainly destroy a cheap liner, maybe it wouldn’t be noticed immediately but after firing over a certain temperature the stainless starts to turn purple and blue in areas, these areas will start to rust through afterwards. I’ve yet to see a heavywall liner fail.
@@chadvaillancourt thanks for your reply. I ordered my liner last fall from Rockford chimney supply. It is a corrugated rectangle liner due to the size of my existing flue. Hopefully those are decent liners… I think I had around $1200-1300 in it and did it myself. Luckily it was fairly easy to install. Just a straight shot down the clay tile flue and into the tee.
It’s kind of steep for corrugated liner but if you did it yourself you definitely saved a lot. It will probably work fine for many years, just be careful while cleaning so you don’t tear it.
@@chadvaillancourt I thought it was kind of steep too. Although it was more of a custom size which I believe is why the steep price. I bought a rig for my cordless drill that has weed eater string with detachable poles that is made for it so I’m hoping no tears happen.
Hey Chad .Did you use any bricks when you re mudded the snout?
Typically I will use a couple brick when mudding around the snout. Then I parge over them after.
Ok thank you!
I’m getting ready to install a pre insulated 6” New England Chimney Supply liner. Should I be connecting my tee with the red silicone and stainless screws? The directions online are pretty vague.
Thanks!
That’s exactly how I do it. Although I don’t like corrugated liners at all.
This is the crossover liner I guess so it’s a little heavier than the normal liner. I only have a 10’ run down a straight chimney to a free standing wood stove. I just smashed the existing flue tiles so I’m hoping it goes smoothly.
Oh good, crossover is a really good product. 10’ is about as short as they get. Should be very easy.
Will a six inch flexible liner go down a 6" terrakatta chimney?
Sometimes, but it depends on the manufacturer and how consistent they are, along with how they were installed. They make a 5.5" liner for exactly what you're trying to do.
@@chadvaillancourt okay thanks.
Where do you find a ovel brush
use a rotary sweep method with flexible bristles
Why did you need another t snout at cleanout
A chimney needs a clean-out to be code compliant. This is the best way I know how to provide one.
...Interesting....
Insulation???
Apparently you didn’t watch with the volume on