Another outstanding video. Idk if anyone else on CZcams has your knowledge. Although we're not in need of chimney repair your videos are extremely educational. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge 🙏
It is always easy to tell when someone has a deep interest in what they do just by listening to how they talk about it. This is a very impressive and informative comparrison. Can’t believe that little 12” heavy wall piece held up to stomping on it with your full weight! One suggestion I have is to give some idea of the cost difference between the four just for a better understanding of how that can factor into the overall cost of a project. Stay warm!!
100% correct! If you have an appliance that needs a 6” corrugated liner, most of the time you can use a 5.5 smooth wall liner, because the 5.5 smooth wall will draft the same or better than the 6” corrugated.
Awesome video a lot of information on this video thank you for that we need more people like you it saves us a lot of money and time thank you for sharing
I love this channel and this was a great video. As a DIYer, It is great to know the different quality of material available. That first one looks like “glorified dryer vent”.. I do have one question for you chad: What are your thoughts about taking measurements and forming/precasting the chimney crown (and mortaring to the the top course of brick) as opposed to “doing it in place”. I only ask because when I do my liner, I would like to Be able to finish in one day and not have to wait for the crown to set up before I finish liner/cap. Will Need to get the chimney back in service. Just curious.
Precasting would be fine. It’s not something I would do though. It’s easy enough to finish the brickwork and install a new crown wash/ splay wash in the same day.
I bought 6m of the cheapest liner secondhand just a week ago 😂 it for a indirect space heater,im hoping it will be ok as it pushes out tge exhaust with a fan
Chad, I appreciate you answering with replies here! I do have another question about building my new fireplace -- I was a bit confused when I read your reply about flue liners. I almost had the impression that you were saying that CLAY FLUES were not as well made these days and I then thought "well then should a new chimney be built with a stainless steel liner from the inception"? But --- Then I watched where you were building a NEW fireplace and installing CLAY FLUES and building a "traditional chimney system" -- Would you be so kind as to clarify if you would always go back to using a Clay Flue for a NEW fireplace build? I just want to get an understanding about what you think about the best material and method would be. Is anyone building new Rumford Style (wood burning fireplaces) and installing Stainless Liners instead of clay flues?
I always give an option to install stainless, it does cost more money. I prefer using stainless when building a new chimney, but some don’t go for it. Using clay flues is code compliant and works well in a lot of cases, they just have to be installed right. That means support all around but also having room for expansion, most installers get this wrong; giving clay flues a bad name. I’m cutting a rumford firebox today for a fireplace build, I’ll be using a stainless liner. Stay tuned, I’ll try and put a video out soon on my progress.
I think the grade of stainless steel the liner is made from is as important as the manufacturer. Please comment on SS grades if you can. I've installed a lot of ventinox VF(321 SS) and have had no problems. Welded corrugated liner and you can't punch a hole while installing it. Way tougher than that. Always insulate a liner, always, always, always!
The difficulty is being able to purchase any of the heavy wall liners if you aren't a business. As a DIYer, I haven't been able to find any source that will sell directly to a consumer. I'm leaning toward a rigid liner for that reason and I'm hoping it will be more durable than the corrugated or smooth-wall alternatives that are available for retail purchase. I saw what looked like rigid liner in your scrap pile, do you have an opinion on how they compare?
I guess I hadn’t thought about this much because I’ve always bought direct as a business. I spoke with a guy from Rockfordchimneysupply.com, he said if you call them they can accommodate you. They buy from the same manufacturers I use. Rigid liners are also good if you have a perfectly straight run.
@ggggg4030 You could, but it will be much more difficult to install, as you will have to add sections every 3-4’. You will also not get much of a warranty with the rigid liner, I think it’s only 5 or 10 years vs lifetime with the flex liners.
I wish I had seen this video before I bought my liner. It’s the corrugated one. Where would I be able to find a light weight thick wall liner? I would really prefer to have a rigid liner I think if I ever have to replace the one I bought a year ago…sounds like that will end up being the case.
Thanks! That’s where I bought the corrugated rectangle liner. Now that I’ve installed one I have a better understanding of how it goes. Your videos are a major help. Sure wish there was more professionals like you in my area that actually did things to proper code.
NFPA Requires Double smooth wall 2ply Zero clearance liner for oil,wood,coal, you can use single wall for gas but we use 2ply smooth wall on everything... those garbage liners are alot harder to drop rather then a heavier liner
All of the liners shown in this video are tested and rated to be used on all appliances and are installed frequently. Solid fuel does have to be insulated in certain situations, NFPA refers you to the manufacturer and the UL listing.
How does the heavy wall liner compare to the corrugated in terms of installing in a tight chimney with one or more offsets? Will it bend enough around hard turns? I would love to pick your brain more, I'm fairly new to the chimney trade.
It bends around turns just as easily. It won’t stretch, crush or tear while winching it. The biggest difference is, it won’t rotate on the bottom (if it has friction) when you rotate the top. You will not cut with a razor knife/scissors so you’ll have to have appropriate tools.
@@chadvaillancourt Does that mean you never attach a tee before you send the liner down? And if so, then you're always making a larger access hole where it connects to the appliance? What do you use to cut, a grinder with metal blade? Also, what do you think about using those regular corrugated liners for gas appliances-like a hot water heater or furnace-that won't put out creosote? Plumbing supply house thinks I'm crazy to use those in stainless steel when you can use aluminum for less than a 1/4 of the cost....
I almost always have the two tees attached at the bottom before I install. I don’t open more of a hole than I need, unless I absolutely have to. Sometimes when there are multiple tight bends I’ll attach a nose cone with just the liner and pull it through. I usually cut my stuff with a diamond blade or a thin abrasive cutting blade on a grinder, then I clean up the cut with an abrasive grinding wheel. Corrugated liner are probably okay for gas but I still don’t use them. I would never install an aluminum liner for anything, they’re just incredibly cheap quality.
@puppy life so you can down size the pipe ? I thought increasing the pipe only. I have a drafting issue as we speak.and I don't want to knock out my clay liner that is in good shape. The newer stoves aren't user friendly.
No, but you could order a 5.5” liner, or cut/smash a piece of the damper out. Most installations require breaking the damper out of the way. Usually the outside dimension of the liner is bigger, the size listed is usually the inside diameter.
I have a 3 storey (UK) house built in the 1920s. All main rooms have had fireplaces, now removed and covered, inc ventilation. Using a nose cone, should I pull a liner UP the chimney from the ground floor or DOWN, please?
I usually install from the top down, but sometimes it can be easier to go from the fireplace up. Depends on your setup and how much help you have, and how comfortable on ladders and roofs you are.
@@chadvaillancourt Many thanks for that response. I have access to the roof by secured ladders, a roof ladder, a personal harness kit, helmet etc. Also human weight + bearing eye bolts secured into the base of the sound chimney stack. These have been used for attaching my body harness ropes and carabiners. Perhaps some experiments with a nose cone and a length of liner will help resolve my dilemma- and dislodge deposits from long extinguished “real-coal” fires prior to the actual job. 🪢
What about a Liner that is a Pre-Insulated Chimney Liner (Flexible Stainless Steel) like sold by Rockford Chimney Supply (and others)? What are they good for?
In your opinion is a 6 inch corragated about equivalent to a 5.5 smoothwall(double ply well insulated). I went the latter route im hoping my new midsize 6 inch stove drafts alright. Chimney is about 20 ft high
@@alliepapile3445 I appreciate your opinion but I went this route and it is way better than my old 8 inch stove on an 8x12 clay flue. All the way from draft to creosote accrual. Better in every way. 6 inch drolet on 5.5 in ss smooth wall liner. Insulated.
@scottleighton9149 I get it, I know it works but as a professional with 25 years experience and being certified I personally won't reduce a stove pipe. I know it has a 6 inch take off but why not install a 6" smooth wall instead of the 5.5. But I agree much better than an 8 inch with a clay 9x13 flue. Enjoy your new stove.
Chad my daughter just bought a house and the gas furnace has a very thin layered liner that sags below the furnace input "like a p trap under a sink" then returns upward to the roof! Thats got to be way thinner than anything your showing us here to make e looplike that. This has to be wrong right?
It's probably an aluminum liner. They are definitely the thinnest cheapest ones you can buy. It certainly shouldn't have a sag below the thimble. That sounds problematic.
An interesting and instructive video . . . BUT. It needs editing down to about 1/2 it’s duration. Then, perhaps some instruction +/ advice about joining heavy duty, short lengths, together?
I’m not a videographer or editor, if people don’t want to watch because it’s too long; I understand. It’s not meant to be entertainment. These are all just scrap pieces, they don’t get joined together. The liner comes as one continuous piece as long as you need.
National chimney supply or New England chimney supply. I don’t think they sell to the public, so you may have to buy their product from a middleman. Rockford chimney supply seems to be where people buy from.
Question…If you have some cracks in the clay tile and then you put a liner in. Why do people say you have to remove the tile? They say gases can get in through the clay tile but isn’t the liner taking care of that? I just get removing all the clay tile when you’re putting a liner in it anyways.
Cracks don't matter if it's for a gas or oil fired boiler. It only matters for wood appliances. Wood appliances need insulation, so most time we remove cracked flues to provide enough room for insulation. Obviously, it's best if you can put the liner with insulation inside of the clay flue, cracked or not.
@downshifter4179 If the liner is cracked or compromised in any way, we have to use insulation. If it was intact, you wouldn't need insulation because the flue does a good job protecting against heat transfer. These are per manufacture installation instructions.
@MrCstone1 The manufacturers that I buy from won't sell to the public. They only sell to authorized dealers. There is a place called Rockford chimney supply that sells to homeowners. They can get whatever you need, and if you don't see it online, just call them.
Decent stuff. Most chimneys have offsets so the flex liners can handle it better. I think the manufacturers started decreasing the warranty on the straight pipe when they started pushing the flex more, I could be wrong though.
If the flue is in good shape, you don’t need insulation. If the flue is comprised you need insulation. It’s always a good idea to have insulation if you have the room for it.
Brands aren’t important, they’re mostly made by the same manufacturers with the same materials. They just sell to third parties who put their names on and charge more.
I kind of agree with you but not 100%. There are higher grade stainless steel corrugated liners you can't crush like that. I've been installing for 25 years and there are times in Manhattan we need different lines for different jobs. And I've installed 18",16"and 14" quite often and there are times we used corrugated liners. It's about what grade stainless and the thickness of the steel. But for the most part you are corrected a currogated liner is usually garbage and if not properly maintained I've seen them unravel and break
Need your expertise...in quite of a Dilemma... our house was built in 1901, the Chimney is in the middle of the house, it's NEVER had a liner, the Chimney guy can't get his special camera to inspect the walls inside due to it being so crooked, (I guess this is quite normal for these very old houses) we use an Oil furnace, it is burning clean, always has, no problems other than this chimney is Old and we worry, he can ONLY install a FLEXIBLE liner, how do we address this... the cost is $3,500 to install "Foreverflex 316 Stainless Steel liner " he says its corrugated and bends easily... what does a Home Owner do... get it done as it's the only option or forgo the liner at all, since the stronger heavier ones would be nearly impossible to install. Love to hear the advise of those who have delt with OLD crooked chimneys like ours.
I've never come across a situation where a corrugated liner would be the only choice because it's the only one that fits. A quality liner can be installed in all cases. The price does seem high for such an inexpensive liner. Seems to me you could get a better liner for the same price, but I don't know the location or particulars.
@@chadvaillancourt the price also includes a chimney cap, can you give examples of a Quality liner that can be easily bent to work in these older crooked chimneys, we're thinking we may just not get any liner after learning how awful these corrugated ones are, he did not offer anything else, I wanted to know what was planned and asked who manufactured it. Do you recommend another video for OLD Difficult chimneys. The house and chimney has been standing since 1901, never given us an issue, I mean we may just do nothing... but get it capped finally. Is that so bad ?
Any liner that is called hybrid, crossover, or light-heavywall are decent, and they all will make any bend the corrugated stuff will. You need a liner. The chimney is deteriorating from the inside out and eventually will have eaten the mortar completely through, then you will need a complete new chimney. You should call a couple of other installers to see what your options are in the area.
your recommendation is backwards. internal corrugation is designed to wick creosote with contraction. smooth wall doesnt have the same effect. buy corrugated especially if you have to finagle through a smoke shelf. ALWAYS... INSULATE YOUR LINERS
we engineer with purpose not to appease the crowd. play by UL to avoid the liability. otherwise create your own lab to prove your counter-intuitive thesis. @@chadvaillancourt
Another outstanding video. Idk if anyone else on CZcams has your knowledge. Although we're not in need of chimney repair your videos are extremely educational. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge 🙏
It is always easy to tell when someone has a deep interest in what they do just by listening to how they talk about it. This is a very impressive and informative comparrison. Can’t believe that little 12” heavy wall piece held up to stomping on it with your full weight! One suggestion I have is to give some idea of the cost difference between the four just for a better understanding of how that can factor into the overall cost of a project. Stay warm!!
Thanks Robert, I’ll think about that. I can’t share my dealer pricing but perhaps I could compare them by percentage….
100% correct!
If you have an appliance that needs a 6” corrugated liner, most of the time you can use a 5.5 smooth wall liner, because the 5.5 smooth wall will draft the same or better than the 6” corrugated.
I am in the process of having my clay flu replaced with liner. Your video was a God sent.
Awesome video a lot of information on this video thank you for that we need more people like you it saves us a lot of money and time thank you for sharing
Great info!
Really helpful content. Preparing to install a new stove and liner in a 100 year + home....Thank you for the tips!
Glad it was helpful!
I love this channel and this was a great video. As a DIYer, It is great to know the different quality of material available. That first one looks like “glorified dryer vent”.. I do have one question for you chad: What are your thoughts about taking measurements and forming/precasting the chimney crown (and mortaring to the the top course of brick) as opposed to “doing it in place”. I only ask because when I do my liner, I would like to Be able to finish in one day and not have to wait for the crown to set up before I finish liner/cap. Will Need to get the chimney back in service. Just curious.
Precasting would be fine. It’s not something I would do though. It’s easy enough to finish the brickwork and install a new crown wash/ splay wash in the same day.
Using heavy duty, heavier weight, liner - how do you recommend joining lengths together as hinted at in your presentation? Many thanks.
Thank you for the education on flu liner types. Now I will be able to make an smart decision Chad. Would you be able to tell me price differences ??
Thanks for that information well done.
I bought 6m of the cheapest liner secondhand just a week ago 😂 it for a indirect space heater,im hoping it will be ok as it pushes out tge exhaust with a fan
Chad, I appreciate you answering with replies here! I do have another question about building my new fireplace -- I was a bit confused when I read your reply about flue liners. I almost had the impression that you were saying that CLAY FLUES were not as well made these days and I then thought "well then should a new chimney be built with a stainless steel liner from the inception"? But --- Then I watched where you were building a NEW fireplace and installing CLAY FLUES and building a "traditional chimney system" -- Would you be so kind as to clarify if you would always go back to using a Clay Flue for a NEW fireplace build? I just want to get an understanding about what you think about the best material and method would be. Is anyone building new Rumford Style (wood burning fireplaces) and installing Stainless Liners instead of clay flues?
I always give an option to install stainless, it does cost more money. I prefer using stainless when building a new chimney, but some don’t go for it. Using clay flues is code compliant and works well in a lot of cases, they just have to be installed right. That means support all around but also having room for expansion, most installers get this wrong; giving clay flues a bad name.
I’m cutting a rumford firebox today for a fireplace build, I’ll be using a stainless liner. Stay tuned, I’ll try and put a video out soon on my progress.
I think the grade of stainless steel the liner is made from is as important as the manufacturer. Please comment on SS grades if you can. I've installed a lot of ventinox VF(321 SS) and have had no problems. Welded corrugated liner and you can't punch a hole while installing it. Way tougher than that. Always insulate a liner, always, always, always!
The difficulty is being able to purchase any of the heavy wall liners if you aren't a business. As a DIYer, I haven't been able to find any source that will sell directly to a consumer. I'm leaning toward a rigid liner for that reason and I'm hoping it will be more durable than the corrugated or smooth-wall alternatives that are available for retail purchase. I saw what looked like rigid liner in your scrap pile, do you have an opinion on how they compare?
I guess I hadn’t thought about this much because I’ve always bought direct as a business. I spoke with a guy from Rockfordchimneysupply.com, he said if you call them they can accommodate you. They buy from the same manufacturers I use. Rigid liners are also good if you have a perfectly straight run.
@@chadvaillancourtcan I use a rigid wall liner and add flexible for the bottom 10 feet with an adapter? My run is about 35 feet
@ggggg4030 You could, but it will be much more difficult to install, as you will have to add sections every 3-4’. You will also not get much of a warranty with the rigid liner, I think it’s only 5 or 10 years vs lifetime with the flex liners.
I wish I had seen this video before I bought my liner. It’s the corrugated one. Where would I be able to find a light weight thick wall liner? I would really prefer to have a rigid liner I think if I ever have to replace the one I bought a year ago…sounds like that will end up being the case.
Rockfordchimneysupply.com can accommodate you if you call them, whenever the time comes. Hopefully it’s years down the road.
Thanks! That’s where I bought the corrugated rectangle liner. Now that I’ve installed one I have a better understanding of how it goes. Your videos are a major help. Sure wish there was more professionals like you in my area that actually did things to proper code.
NFPA Requires Double smooth wall 2ply Zero clearance liner for oil,wood,coal, you can use single wall for gas but we use 2ply smooth wall on everything... those garbage liners are alot harder to drop rather then a heavier liner
All of the liners shown in this video are tested and rated to be used on all appliances and are installed frequently. Solid fuel does have to be insulated in certain situations, NFPA refers you to the manufacturer and the UL listing.
Is it recommended to remove the clay flue before installing the stainless steel liner?
It’s perfectly acceptable to install inside of the clay liner if you have the room and it’s not compromised.
How does the heavy wall liner compare to the corrugated in terms of installing in a tight chimney with one or more offsets? Will it bend enough around hard turns? I would love to pick your brain more, I'm fairly new to the chimney trade.
It bends around turns just as easily. It won’t stretch, crush or tear while winching it. The biggest difference is, it won’t rotate on the bottom (if it has friction) when you rotate the top. You will not cut with a razor knife/scissors so you’ll have to have appropriate tools.
@@chadvaillancourt Does that mean you never attach a tee before you send the liner down? And if so, then you're always making a larger access hole where it connects to the appliance? What do you use to cut, a grinder with metal blade? Also, what do you think about using those regular corrugated liners for gas appliances-like a hot water heater or furnace-that won't put out creosote? Plumbing supply house thinks I'm crazy to use those in stainless steel when you can use aluminum for less than a 1/4 of the cost....
I almost always have the two tees attached at the bottom before I install. I don’t open more of a hole than I need, unless I absolutely have to. Sometimes when there are multiple tight bends I’ll attach a nose cone with just the liner and pull it through. I usually cut my stuff with a diamond blade or a thin abrasive cutting blade on a grinder, then I clean up the cut with an abrasive grinding wheel. Corrugated liner are probably okay for gas but I still don’t use them. I would never install an aluminum liner for anything, they’re just incredibly cheap quality.
You can tile knock the flue to fit or use a smaller size liner if you hooking up to a 6" you can Buy a 5.5 it'll he'll alot. And get a nose cone
@puppy life so you can down size the pipe ? I thought increasing the pipe only. I have a drafting issue as we speak.and I don't want to knock out my clay liner that is in good shape. The newer stoves aren't user friendly.
So my damper inside my chimney is 5.5" wide, Can I squeeze a 6" Smooth wall liner enough to get through it?
No, but you could order a 5.5” liner, or cut/smash a piece of the damper out. Most installations require breaking the damper out of the way. Usually the outside dimension of the liner is bigger, the size listed is usually the inside diameter.
I have a 3 storey (UK) house built in the 1920s. All main rooms have had fireplaces, now removed and covered, inc ventilation. Using a nose cone, should I pull a liner UP the chimney from the ground floor or DOWN, please?
I usually install from the top down, but sometimes it can be easier to go from the fireplace up. Depends on your setup and how much help you have, and how comfortable on ladders and roofs you are.
@@chadvaillancourt Many thanks for that response. I have access to the roof by secured ladders, a roof ladder, a personal harness kit, helmet etc. Also human weight + bearing eye bolts secured into the base of the sound chimney stack. These have been used for attaching my body harness ropes and carabiners. Perhaps some experiments with a nose cone and a length of liner will help resolve my dilemma- and dislodge deposits from long extinguished “real-coal” fires prior to the actual job. 🪢
@@DeanJuvenal You should have it swept clean first, before fitting liner, so I'm told.
@@ScorpIron58 Thank you. Will do as I have brushes, rods and suitable, powerful vacuum cleaner.
What about a Liner that is a Pre-Insulated Chimney Liner (Flexible Stainless Steel) like sold by Rockford Chimney Supply (and others)? What are they good for?
All the pre-insulated liners I’ve seen were corrugated. I won’t install a corrugated liner. They may do it with good liners too, but I’m not sure.
@@chadvaillancourt OK thanks Chad!
In your opinion is a 6 inch corragated about equivalent to a 5.5 smoothwall(double ply well insulated). I went the latter route im hoping my new midsize 6 inch stove drafts alright. Chimney is about 20 ft high
I would take the smoothwall every time.
I would never put a 5.5 for a stove you should never reduce, 5.5 is more for a furnace with btus in the range
@@alliepapile3445 I appreciate your opinion but I went this route and it is way better than my old 8 inch stove on an 8x12 clay flue. All the way from draft to creosote accrual. Better in every way. 6 inch drolet on 5.5 in ss smooth wall liner. Insulated.
@scottleighton9149 I get it, I know it works but as a professional with 25 years experience and being certified I personally won't reduce a stove pipe. I know it has a 6 inch take off but why not install a 6" smooth wall instead of the 5.5. But I agree much better than an 8 inch with a clay 9x13 flue. Enjoy your new stove.
Chad my daughter just bought a house and the gas furnace has a very thin layered liner that sags below the furnace input "like a p trap under a sink" then returns upward to the roof! Thats got to be way thinner than anything your showing us here to make e looplike that. This has to be wrong right?
It's probably an aluminum liner. They are definitely the thinnest cheapest ones you can buy. It certainly shouldn't have a sag below the thimble. That sounds problematic.
An interesting and instructive video . . . BUT. It needs editing down to about 1/2 it’s duration. Then, perhaps some instruction +/ advice about joining heavy duty, short lengths, together?
I’m not a videographer or editor, if people don’t want to watch because it’s too long; I understand. It’s not meant to be entertainment.
These are all just scrap pieces, they don’t get joined together. The liner comes as one continuous piece as long as you need.
@@chadvaillancourt well said
Please provide the name of the liner or liners you recommend, especially the light heavy wall liner
I mentioned the names in the video. Some people call them hybrid or crossover, I’m sure there are other names as well, but I can’t keep up.
@@chadvaillancourt My bad I meant the manufacturer
National chimney supply or New England chimney supply. I don’t think they sell to the public, so you may have to buy their product from a middleman. Rockford chimney supply seems to be where people buy from.
@@chadvaillancourt Thanks
Question…If you have some cracks in the clay tile and then you put a liner in. Why do people say you have to remove the tile? They say gases can get in through the clay tile but isn’t the liner taking care of that?
I just get removing all the clay tile when you’re putting a liner in it anyways.
Cracks don't matter if it's for a gas or oil fired boiler. It only matters for wood appliances. Wood appliances need insulation, so most time we remove cracked flues to provide enough room for insulation. Obviously, it's best if you can put the liner with insulation inside of the clay flue, cracked or not.
Thanks for replying…I have both oil and wood. So the clay tile won’t/doesn’t act as insulation itself with a liner?
@downshifter4179 If the liner is cracked or compromised in any way, we have to use insulation. If it was intact, you wouldn't need insulation because the flue does a good job protecting against heat transfer. These are per manufacture installation instructions.
Seems it’s best to go heavier wall and get a bank loan 😊
Probably never have other problems for 100 years 😊
Is the heavy wall available in oval?
Yes, they can be ovalized. They charge a couple dollars per foot to do it at the factory.
Where is this factory? I can't find a place around me that has it. 3 places never called back.
@MrCstone1 The manufacturers that I buy from won't sell to the public. They only sell to authorized dealers. There is a place called Rockford chimney supply that sells to homeowners. They can get whatever you need, and if you don't see it online, just call them.
@@chadvaillancourt thanks for your time!
What do you think of the duravents liners like 6DF304-25K?
Decent stuff. Most chimneys have offsets so the flex liners can handle it better. I think the manufacturers started decreasing the warranty on the straight pipe when they started pushing the flex more, I could be wrong though.
@@chadvaillancourt what brands do you recommend?
@@chadvaillancourt also if installing a flex liner inside a masonry chimney that has a good flue do I have to use insulation blanket?
If the flue is in good shape, you don’t need insulation. If the flue is comprised you need insulation. It’s always a good idea to have insulation if you have the room for it.
Brands aren’t important, they’re mostly made by the same manufacturers with the same materials. They just sell to third parties who put their names on and charge more.
I kind of agree with you but not 100%. There are higher grade stainless steel corrugated liners you can't crush like that. I've been installing for 25 years and there are times in Manhattan we need different lines for different jobs. And I've installed 18",16"and 14" quite often and there are times we used corrugated liners. It's about what grade stainless and the thickness of the steel. But for the most part you are corrected a currogated liner is usually garbage and if not properly maintained I've seen them unravel and break
Need your expertise...in quite of a Dilemma... our house was built in 1901, the Chimney is in the middle of the house, it's NEVER had a liner, the Chimney guy can't get his special camera to inspect the walls inside due to it being so crooked, (I guess this is quite normal for these very old houses) we use an Oil furnace, it is burning clean, always has, no problems other than this chimney is Old and we worry, he can ONLY install a FLEXIBLE liner, how do we address this... the cost is $3,500 to install "Foreverflex 316 Stainless Steel liner " he says its corrugated and bends easily... what does a Home Owner do... get it done as it's the only option or forgo the liner at all, since the stronger heavier ones would be nearly impossible to install. Love to hear the advise of those who have delt with OLD crooked chimneys like ours.
I've never come across a situation where a corrugated liner would be the only choice because it's the only one that fits. A quality liner can be installed in all cases. The price does seem high for such an inexpensive liner. Seems to me you could get a better liner for the same price, but I don't know the location or particulars.
@@chadvaillancourt the price also includes a chimney cap, can you give examples of a Quality liner that can be easily bent to work in these older crooked chimneys, we're thinking we may just not get any liner after learning how awful these corrugated ones are, he did not offer anything else, I wanted to know what was planned and asked who manufactured it. Do you recommend another video for OLD Difficult chimneys. The house and chimney has been standing since 1901, never given us an issue, I mean we may just do nothing... but get it capped finally. Is that so bad ?
Any liner that is called hybrid, crossover, or light-heavywall are decent, and they all will make any bend the corrugated stuff will. You need a liner. The chimney is deteriorating from the inside out and eventually will have eaten the mortar completely through, then you will need a complete new chimney. You should call a couple of other installers to see what your options are in the area.
Those flexy liners aren't worth a curse.
your recommendation is backwards. internal corrugation is designed to wick creosote with contraction. smooth wall doesnt have the same effect. buy corrugated especially if you have to finagle through a smoke shelf. ALWAYS... INSULATE YOUR LINERS
There’s always someone who will defend the worst possible way to do something. 🤦♂️🤣🤣
You should win a 🏆
we engineer with purpose not to appease the crowd. play by UL to avoid the liability. otherwise create your own lab to prove your counter-intuitive thesis. @@chadvaillancourt
@@chadvaillancourt would you be so kind as to test this theory instead of just bashing it? It's not about who is right, but about what is right.
@firstname-qq3xp I don't follow. What theory?
That corrugation expansion removes the creosote after expansion and contraction