I was a certified sweep for 10 years. Can't begin to tell you about the nightmares I had to deal with when relining chimneys. My biggest problem was masons who "thought" they knew how to build chimneys. Most have no idea as to proper construction.
Dude.. your the shit!. I'm retired. Mason of 48yrs. I've nerve took on a project like that mess. Getting down in their must have bin a Houdiny trick"lol
I’ve made it through all your vlogs. Nothing new since July? I hope there are more to come. I most like the multi-part teardown and rebuild 💪💪💪 PS - You sure are one heck of a hard, professional worker! 👍👍👍
Haha, thank you. Makes me happy to hear, a lot of time goes into making the videos. I will put out more videos, just need time to put stuff together. Thanks again.
Looks good. The home owner however should have purchased a liner for their HVAC flue as well, especially if it is a high efficiency system (which needs AL series stainless steel).
Great seeing another chimney professional completing a chimney relining job correctly from start to finish. One question if you care to answer, what is the winch make and model? I’m in the market for an electric winch. Love your videos.
Thanks! I bought the winch at Harbor Freight almost ten years ago, they still sell the same one . Still works great! Although I would like to spool it with wire rope instead.
Hey Chad! Nice to see another video from you - it’s been a while. I know that you are focused on the job, and not filming (reasonable), but it would be cool to see stuff like the crown wash being made as a high-speed or time-lapse segment. Anyway, looked like a lot of work, but glad to see the homeowner having you put the effort into doing it “better”. As for the flue caps leaving a gap once the band is tightened, it is true that many components of modern construction miss those types of details, and continually diminish the quality of modern construction. Does that gap present any rain or insect intrusion issues?
Thanks Robert! It seems every time I make a video, some portion is lost due to corrupt files, I forgot to turn the gopro on, dead batteries or something to that affect. I need a film crew 😂 The gap between the top plate and the liner gets filled with high-temp silicone, otherwise there would be air intrusion and the wasp’s would definitely build nest inside. I almost always finish a project like this with custom rain cap to cover everything as well.
Fantastic video as always. Excellent educational video for lay person's as well as other people who do that type of work. Thank you again for sharing 🙏
Make sure you secure the top end of the liner. They are heavy and can drop to far down the chimney. I fund that out doing a 45' liner. Luckily I had a rope on it for getting it up on the roof.
In 30 years I never seen anyone hoist themselves down a chimney to remove flues .. you need yourself a tile kocker it's a heavy block on rods with a drill...and get your self real stainless steel 2ply Zero clearance.
I have several tools for breaking and removing flues. Sometimes chimneys are built in a way that are prone to jamming, so I go down and take care of it and save a bunch of time. I have no idea what a “stainless steel 2ply zero clearance” is and I have access to every liner available. The liners I install are top quality and are rated for zero clearance with 1/2” insulation wrap per their UL listing.
Curios what you charge for a job like this! I have several apartment building and one in dire need of a liner before the months up! I used to mason tend 35 years ago and they were getting 15k for just single glue chimney if I recall correctly ! C seems like more work repairing one then building one! Both a lot of work!
Great video, and really incredible workmanship. I am in the process of getting a fireplace that is unlined made able to accommodate a fire burning insert or wood stove. The chimney has 2 flues, and both are fairly small at the bottom, but larger at the top. I have been told that even the larger one may not accommodate a 6" pipe which could be necessary for almost any woodburning insert or stove. Also, I would not be able to have the pipe insulated due to not having the necessary space. I have also inquired about combining the 2 flues to make one larger one, and have been told it may be feasible, but would be difficult. If I proceed with having a 6" uninsulated pipe installed in an unlined chimney is there a substantial risk? Thanks, I appreciate any advice you can provide.
There is considerable risk without insulation, heat will concentrate wherever the stainless liner touches the brickwork. It’s like a frying pan, nothing to protect against heat transfer. At the minimum I would order an ovalized liner and install a 1/4” insulated wrap. In some cases the original flue may be too small to accommodate an liner, without doing some demo inside the chimney.
Thanks! I’m glad you liked it. Homeowners insurance will definitely cover a chimney fire and everything thing that it damaged, including other flues and brick repairs. Most wood liners I install are insurance jobs. This job was covered completely by insurance.
Do you think a guy could use (obviously w proper support) high temp fiber glass mesh tape around the joints of the clay flue to help them from walking around? Or would that just restrict the fluctuation?
Don't know how I missed this one. LOL, reminded me of the Terminator movie while he was lowered into the molten steel. My son would have tortured me while he had me in that chimney. On the wood stove liner, if you have a six inch stove pipe do you just match it up to a six inch liner no matter how high the chimney is?
It's important to have your kids fear you. 😉 I will always stay with the appliance size regardless of height. The only time I don't, is when I'm installing inside of a flue, then I will go from a 6" to a 5.5".
Superb effort...its time YOU TOO MUST ACKNOWLEGE SUPERIOR OUTCOMES OF MASONRY BUILDOUTS... SWEEPING...VS REPAIRS ON DEFICIENT OLD STUFF MEANS LIABILITIES GALORE... AND ...RISKS THST OWNER MUST FACE... HMMMM
Thank you so much for the awesome videos, really informative and man you put a lot of care in to your work. I was wondering if you wouldn't mind sharing a video of how you mix your different mortars? Also, if you have any novel thoughts on how to find a mason that puts in the care you do I'd really appreciate them. I'm in Arlington Virginia and looking for a mason to brick face a new residence and build a chimney. (50k bricks)
Thanks, I’m glad you like the videos. I will do a video regarding mortar mixing in the future, just haven’t gotten around to it yet. There are good mason out there, just get references and some pictures of their work(pay close attention to how they bond out the brickwork). For a job the size you’re doing, you should have them build you a sample panel to illustrate the work. If you tell them up front you’re particular, they will for sure do better work.
Clay flues do a great job of protecting from heat transfer, if the flues are intact and the liner will fit, it’s perfectly acceptable to install without insulation.
No the existence or condition of the clay liners has no bearing on insulation requirements. That has to do with clearance from the outside of the chimney and any combustible materials
In a code conforming chimney no installation is needed if the clay flue system is intact and in good condition. In a code conforming chimney with flues removed, 1/4” insulation wrap is required. In a non-code conforming chimney with the flues removed, 1/2” wrap is required. This is per UL1777 and manufacturers install instructions.
@@chadvaillancourt what code says anything about no insulation needed if the clay is intact? I have been a sweep for 20 years now and have never seen that in any code book. All it says is you need the 1" clearance for external chimneys 2" for internal. If you don't have that you need a ul-1777 listed liner rated for zero-zero clearance. The only way to get that is with 1/2" insulation 1" of pour in or one of the preinsulated options. Once a stainless liner is installed that clay just becomes part of the masonry chimney structure and has absolutely no bearing at all on the function or requirements of the liner system. Are you sure what you are quoting is code?
Yes. I wish they would just make them to fit better though. I just sent a video to my rep on one I could stick my hand in. I wish they cared more about making better parts for us… it’s frustrating.
Why not to just push the liners through the broken flues? Why did you need to remove them? Based on how they stick out of the flue pieces at the end of the video, it seems that they could have fit in them.
And liners installed for a solid fuel burning appliance have to be insulated if the flues are compromised in any way. The liner won’t fit inside the flue with insulation around it, so we remove them.
That wasn’t a boiler it’s a forced hot air furnace! They wouldn’t need hot water heater if it was a boiler! Looks like the air ducts for forced hot air! Heat exchanger sitting on top of furnace!
Yes, I realize it’s a furnace, my brain forces me to say boiler because 95% of my installs are for boilers. A lot of them don’t provide hot water either, people don’t want their boiler running for hot water in the summer, electric is definitely the way to go for efficiency. I don’t talk pricing, you should have a professional come out and give you a quote based on your project and their capabilities.
I was a certified sweep for 10 years. Can't begin to tell you about the nightmares I had to deal with when relining chimneys. My biggest problem was masons who "thought" they knew how to build chimneys. Most have no idea as to proper construction.
I totally agree. Most are too proud to learn a different way than they were taught and nobody wants to read the codes either.
Dude.. your the shit!. I'm retired. Mason of 48yrs. I've nerve took on a project like that mess. Getting down in their must have bin a Houdiny trick"lol
I’ve made it through all your vlogs. Nothing new since July? I hope there are more to come. I most like the multi-part teardown and rebuild 💪💪💪
PS - You sure are one heck of a hard, professional worker! 👍👍👍
Haha, thank you. Makes me happy to hear, a lot of time goes into making the videos. I will put out more videos, just need time to put stuff together. Thanks again.
Love your videos! Very informative! Helps me figure out what I want to do to repair my four flew chimney.
You did a nice chimney sweep with your jeans. lol Whatever you charged for that job, you earned it!
Looks good. The home owner however should have purchased a liner for their HVAC flue as well, especially if it is a high efficiency system (which needs AL series stainless steel).
Now I see why they used small children back in the good old days. Great work. Heroic, even
This guy is really good - lucky homeowner to find him!
Mi respeto para usted principalmente y también a sus hijos por este trabajo difícil que están haciendo!
Great seeing another chimney professional completing a chimney relining job correctly from start to finish. One question if you care to answer, what is the winch make and model? I’m in the market for an electric winch. Love your videos.
Thanks!
I bought the winch at Harbor Freight almost ten years ago, they still sell the same one . Still works great! Although I would like to spool it with wire rope instead.
Hey Chad! Nice to see another video from you - it’s been a while. I know that you are focused on the job, and not filming (reasonable), but it would be cool to see stuff like the crown wash being made as a high-speed or time-lapse segment. Anyway, looked like a lot of work, but glad to see the homeowner having you put the effort into doing it “better”. As for the flue caps leaving a gap once the band is tightened, it is true that many components of modern construction miss those types of details, and continually diminish the quality of modern construction. Does that gap present any rain or insect intrusion issues?
Thanks Robert! It seems every time I make a video, some portion is lost due to corrupt files, I forgot to turn the gopro on, dead batteries or something to that affect. I need a film crew 😂
The gap between the top plate and the liner gets filled with high-temp silicone, otherwise there would be air intrusion and the wasp’s would definitely build nest inside. I almost always finish a project like this with custom rain cap to cover everything as well.
Love it man great work
Much respect brother! Santa Clause has nothing on you!
Fantastic video as always. Excellent educational video for lay person's as well as other people who do that type of work.
Thank you again for sharing 🙏
One of your most interesting videos 🙏
Make sure you secure the top end of the liner. They are heavy and can drop to far down the chimney. I fund that out doing a 45' liner. Luckily I had a rope on it for getting it up on the roof.
In 30 years I never seen anyone hoist themselves down a chimney to remove flues .. you need yourself a tile kocker it's a heavy block on rods with a drill...and get your self real stainless steel 2ply Zero clearance.
I have several tools for breaking and removing flues. Sometimes chimneys are built in a way that are prone to jamming, so I go down and take care of it and save a bunch of time.
I have no idea what a “stainless steel 2ply zero clearance” is and I have access to every liner available. The liners I install are top quality and are rated for zero clearance with 1/2” insulation wrap per their UL listing.
Curios what you charge for a job like this! I have several apartment building and one in dire need of a liner before the months up! I used to mason tend 35 years ago and they were getting 15k for just single glue chimney if I recall correctly ! C seems like more work repairing one then building one! Both a lot of work!
That scaffold setup looks like as much work and time as the actual job!
Definitely a good workout!
Great video, and really incredible workmanship. I am in the process of getting a fireplace that is unlined made able to accommodate a fire burning insert or wood stove. The chimney has 2 flues, and both are fairly small at the bottom, but larger at the top. I have been told that even the larger one may not accommodate a 6" pipe which could be necessary for almost any woodburning insert or stove. Also, I would not be able to have the pipe insulated due to not having the necessary space. I have also inquired about combining the 2 flues to make one larger one, and have been told it may be feasible, but would be difficult. If I proceed with having a 6" uninsulated pipe installed in an unlined chimney is there a substantial risk? Thanks, I appreciate any advice you can provide.
There is considerable risk without insulation, heat will concentrate wherever the stainless liner touches the brickwork. It’s like a frying pan, nothing to protect against heat transfer. At the minimum I would order an ovalized liner and install a 1/4” insulated wrap. In some cases the original flue may be too small to accommodate an liner, without doing some demo inside the chimney.
Brave Man!
That was areally interesting video.
Much more involved than I imagined.
Do you know if homeowners insurance has ever covered a chimney fire?
Thanks! I’m glad you liked it.
Homeowners insurance will definitely cover a chimney fire and everything thing that it damaged, including other flues and brick repairs. Most wood liners I install are insurance jobs. This job was covered completely by insurance.
@@chadvaillancourt ~ Thank you for the reply.
i think its time to add a liner to my chimney how much should it expect it to cost to run 35'
Do you think a guy could use (obviously w proper support) high temp fiber glass mesh tape around the joints of the clay flue to help them from walking around? Or would that just restrict the fluctuation?
Personally I think it wouldn’t allow enough expansion. That’s why I prefer the rolls of foam sill seal.
Don't know how I missed this one. LOL, reminded me of the Terminator movie while he was lowered into the molten steel. My son would have tortured me while he had me in that chimney. On the wood stove liner, if you have a six inch stove pipe do you just match it up to a six inch liner no matter how high the chimney is?
It's important to have your kids fear you. 😉
I will always stay with the appliance size regardless of height. The only time I don't, is when I'm installing inside of a flue, then I will go from a 6" to a 5.5".
Superb effort...its time YOU TOO MUST ACKNOWLEGE SUPERIOR OUTCOMES OF MASONRY BUILDOUTS...
SWEEPING...VS REPAIRS ON DEFICIENT OLD STUFF MEANS LIABILITIES GALORE...
AND ...RISKS THST OWNER MUST FACE...
HMMMM
You will never be Santa Claus! Lol. But Close!
Thank you so much for the awesome videos, really informative and man you put a lot of care in to your work. I was wondering if you wouldn't mind sharing a video of how you mix your different mortars? Also, if you have any novel thoughts on how to find a mason that puts in the care you do I'd really appreciate them. I'm in Arlington Virginia and looking for a mason to brick face a new residence and build a chimney. (50k bricks)
Thanks, I’m glad you like the videos.
I will do a video regarding mortar mixing in the future, just haven’t gotten around to it yet.
There are good mason out there, just get references and some pictures of their work(pay close attention to how they bond out the brickwork). For a job the size you’re doing, you should have them build you a sample panel to illustrate the work. If you tell them up front you’re particular, they will for sure do better work.
@chadvaillancourt Just wanted to say thank you for all of the information you share!
Where is a good place to purchase chimney liner
Great job. If you installed the liners inside flues would they still need to be insulated?
Clay flues do a great job of protecting from heat transfer, if the flues are intact and the liner will fit, it’s perfectly acceptable to install without insulation.
No the existence or condition of the clay liners has no bearing on insulation requirements. That has to do with clearance from the outside of the chimney and any combustible materials
In a code conforming chimney no installation is needed if the clay flue system is intact and in good condition.
In a code conforming chimney with flues removed, 1/4” insulation wrap is required.
In a non-code conforming chimney with the flues removed, 1/2” wrap is required.
This is per UL1777 and manufacturers install instructions.
@@chadvaillancourt what code says anything about no insulation needed if the clay is intact? I have been a sweep for 20 years now and have never seen that in any code book. All it says is you need the 1" clearance for external chimneys 2" for internal. If you don't have that you need a ul-1777 listed liner rated for zero-zero clearance. The only way to get that is with 1/2" insulation 1" of pour in or one of the preinsulated options.
Once a stainless liner is installed that clay just becomes part of the masonry chimney structure and has absolutely no bearing at all on the function or requirements of the liner system.
Are you sure what you are quoting is code?
By the way your work looks very good without question. I just wanted to point out that code makes no reference to the clay tiles regarding insulation
Do you silicone the opening that is made from the band on the top plate?
Yes. I wish they would just make them to fit better though. I just sent a video to my rep on one I could stick my hand in. I wish they cared more about making better parts for us… it’s frustrating.
I have a tool that expands to install and extract clay flue liners
Why not to just push the liners through the broken flues? Why did you need to remove them? Based on how they stick out of the flue pieces at the end of the video, it seems that they could have fit in them.
And liners installed for a solid fuel burning appliance have to be insulated if the flues are compromised in any way. The liner won’t fit inside the flue with insulation around it, so we remove them.
That wasn’t a boiler it’s a forced hot air furnace! They wouldn’t need hot water heater if it was a boiler! Looks like the air ducts for forced hot air! Heat exchanger sitting on top of furnace!
Yes, I realize it’s a furnace, my brain forces me to say boiler because 95% of my installs are for boilers. A lot of them don’t provide hot water either, people don’t want their boiler running for hot water in the summer, electric is definitely the way to go for efficiency.
I don’t talk pricing, you should have a professional come out and give you a quote based on your project and their capabilities.
My 1st comment = "OMG"!
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