Finally found your video after watching tons of other with people doing stuff completely different from what I need to do. Your video is awesome sir, thank you!!
Jack 42 Baltimore … pretty good stuff! Sure … insulating, foil taping, mesh wrapping, and furnace cement/grout, tin peening the shroud, and silicone cap sealing, etc. are all important … and in some areas, actual code requirements, but for 85% of the DYI replacement and first fit folks in rural America that don't require pulling a permit, this is still an A+ on the final exam. Thanks to all for your important critical insights and comments … they are important … but let's all be respectful of this fine older Gent (in my personal ranks) who cares enough to teach us what he's learned, and what he knows works. That said … we all have to follow local codes to avoid headaches and possible risks to health and safety. I will too take my own advice!! Hope I will someday be such a gentleman to pass on my tradecraft. Best to all. Black Jack 42
@@BasaPete I managed to fit insulation around mine which was recommended and certainly does help the draft up the flue pipe keeping the flue pipe hotter (even though not any code requirement). Also reduces the chance of condensation forming on the outside of the metal flue pipe. Wasn't an easy job mind you with the 1 meter sections.
Great idea for a 1 person job. Unfortunately, I found my 1m tubes were heavier and this was just impossible to drop them, so had to pull them up by a rope 1 by one, attaching from inside the fireplace, large and wide luckily. By the time I got to 6 metres it was a struggle to lift up with the rope even. (then realized I had them wrong way around!!) but left them like that using a sleeve from the stove pipe instead. In fact, I think it's better that way so any soot falling down, goes all the way down and not through the pipe overlapping fittings to the outside of the flue pipe at each section. So they fit inside each other going down the flue.
Thank you for your comment. It sounds like you did a great job. Good thinking using a stovepipe as a sleeve. Even professionals have to modify things when the job does work out as planned.
Brilliant - was trying to figure out how to install sections of 1 meter liner down my 2 floor chimney instead of paying 350-400 USD to an installer. Thanks
@@BasaPete just wondering as I've seen advice not to make any perforations with screws. Any idea of why they don't recommend this? The pipes would need to be pushed up from below if they weren't joined somehow surely. Thanks
@@SuperBrit33 I'm not sure why someone would say that. The pipes I used were Tubinox Stainless Steel Chimney Liner with twist-lock assembly and they had a pre-drilled hole from the factory.
@@BasaPete exactly. Got some more advice from hearth.com forum. Decided to rivet most of the sections. Then wrap with 12mm of ceramic fibre. Then push up from below clamping at the top and lower part also.
Well Done, for a straight chimney I think stainless rigid stove is better than flexible. I think I'll use an insulated wrap & stainless rivets (supposedly heat cycle might workout screws).
The pipe clamp I made worked good, but be careful the pipe doesn't slip through while your tightening the clamp. I believe a long bolt and wingnut would work better on the clamp than the rope I used. I really needed one more hand to tighten rope properly.
Thank you for the video, I was wondering in video 1 you said you removed the clay tile, I am getting ready to do mine with double wall flex pipe and wanted to know why you removed the old tile and if this is a step that can be skipped since I’m using a stainless pipe
Thank you for your comment. Tubinox Stainless Steel Chimney Liner is guaranteed for life. Hopefully, it will never need to be removed. But, if need be, you would have to disconnect all the tee joints and pull the liner up and out with a strong winch. Then, dig out all the insolation.
Thank you for your video, I wasn't sure how to tackle this until today. I'm concerned, and feel stupid... In our 19 years of home ownership, no one mentioned to put a flu into our chimney; it's a 50's bungalow. Our furnace has been venting up a large, brick opening all these years. Fortunately the bricks seem to be in good shape, but do you have any comments about this for us? Thanks Again, Nichol
Thank you for your comment. The bricks should be ok. It's the mortar that I would be concerned with. You should check for cracks and any loose mortar. What do you burn in your furnace?
The mortar seems to be fine, no holes or crumbling. I'm not sure what to look for other than a visual inspection on the outside. Is there a more in depth inspection to be done here? We've retained an older and reliable, gravity furnace that has been retrofitted with a motor and fan' we love it, works great! It's natural gas. Thanks for your time :)
@@renfrewcalgary2830 As long as there's no cracks, loose or missing mortar, it should be ok. The stainless steel liner and insulation will help protect the bricks and mortar.
Thanks for the reassurance and confidence. This is a great video, I know I can manage the job and understand the whole process... You're a good person for helping others, I share my knowledge too and this gives me faith in others!
Hi Again! It turns out we have a chimney liner made of 8 inch concrete. Because the there's been no cap protecting it, the aggregate is showing, but it is otherwise intact and solid. Do you see any reason to put an additional liner in this tube? My instincts say we got lucky and I can finish it off with a vent cap and flashing. Look forward to your next comment, thanks so much for your replies N
Thank you for the good question. You shouldn't cut the liner. They come in all kinds of lengths from 6 to 48 inches, plus an adjustable length that telescopes from 7 to 11 inches.
Basa Pete thank you for the reply. I’m probably going to go with this liner in my chimney just hoping that everything lines up as good as yours did. You did an excellent job by the way!
Just a heads up, installing an uninsulated liner into an unlined chimney doesn’t meet most manufacturers clearance requirements. Also, uninsulated liners in exterior chimneys allow the flue gases to cool very quickly, creating excessive creosote buildup. I would’ve pulled that crown off and wrapped that liner in a ceramic wool blanket, you had all the room in the world!!!!
Thank you for your comments and good advice. For insulating chimney liner please see DIY Chimney Liner Replacement Part 3 - Installing Thermix Insulation.
I would of definitely wrapped the liner in a 1/2-1” of heat blanket. Im not a big fan of sectional pieces. Also, we would of completely rebuilt the crown and set a new flue tile to complete the install. But you did a hell of alot better than most we have seen. Great job
Thank you for your comment. You'd think the male end would face up. But the chimney cap only comes with a male end, which forces you to have the female end of the chimney liner facing up.
Finally found your video after watching tons of other with people doing stuff completely different from what I need to do. Your video is awesome sir, thank you!!
Thank you for your nice comment.
Wow, I was getting vertigo just watching your video. You do nice work.
Thank you for the comment.
I don't look down so vertigo isn't a problem.
Jack 42 Baltimore … pretty good stuff! Sure … insulating, foil taping, mesh wrapping, and furnace cement/grout, tin peening the shroud, and silicone cap sealing, etc. are all important … and in some areas, actual code requirements, but for 85% of the DYI replacement and first fit folks in rural America that don't require pulling a permit, this is still an A+ on the final exam. Thanks to all for your important critical insights and comments … they are important … but let's all be respectful of this fine older Gent (in my personal ranks) who cares enough to teach us what he's learned, and what he knows works. That said … we all have to follow local codes to avoid headaches and possible risks to health and safety. I will too take my own advice!! Hope I will someday be such a gentleman to pass on my tradecraft. Best to all. Black Jack 42
Thank you for your nice comment. This chimney liner installation followed all local codes here in Canada and is insurance company approved.
@@BasaPete I managed to fit insulation around mine which was recommended and certainly does help the draft up the flue pipe keeping the flue pipe hotter (even though not any code requirement). Also reduces the chance of condensation forming on the outside of the metal flue pipe. Wasn't an easy job mind you with the 1 meter sections.
@@CJ-vg4tg Thank you for your comment.
I agree with the benefits of insulation. My chimney draws better and has hardly any creosote.
FINE JOB SIR👍👍
Gramps did a damn good job.....
very nice work. enjoyed the video
Great idea for a 1 person job. Unfortunately, I found my 1m tubes were heavier and this was just impossible to drop them, so had to pull them up by a rope 1 by one, attaching from inside the fireplace, large and wide luckily. By the time I got to 6 metres it was a struggle to lift up with the rope even. (then realized I had them wrong way around!!) but left them like that using a sleeve from the stove pipe instead. In fact, I think it's better that way so any soot falling down, goes all the way down and not through the pipe overlapping fittings to the outside of the flue pipe at each section. So they fit inside each other going down the flue.
Thank you for your comment.
It sounds like you did a great job.
Good thinking using a stovepipe as a sleeve. Even professionals have to modify things when the job does work out as planned.
Brilliant - was trying to figure out how to install sections of 1 meter liner down my 2 floor chimney instead of paying 350-400 USD to an installer. Thanks
Thank you for your nice comment.
And, good luck with your chimney project.
@@BasaPete just wondering as I've seen advice not to make any perforations with screws. Any idea of why they don't recommend this? The pipes would need to be pushed up from below if they weren't joined somehow surely. Thanks
@@SuperBrit33 I'm not sure why someone would say that. The pipes I used were Tubinox Stainless Steel Chimney Liner with twist-lock assembly and they had a pre-drilled hole from the factory.
@@BasaPete exactly. Got some more advice from hearth.com forum. Decided to rivet most of the sections. Then wrap with 12mm of ceramic fibre. Then push up from below clamping at the top and lower part also.
@@SuperBrit33 Sounds like a good plan. Rivets will be much easier than using screws.
Well Done, for a straight chimney I think stainless rigid stove is better than flexible.
I think I'll use an insulated wrap & stainless rivets (supposedly heat cycle might workout screws).
Thank you for your comment.
Insulated wrap wouldn't work on my chimney, not enough room.
Rivets are a good idea. Better than screws.
I'm about to do this job myself. I like the holding fixture. I was wondering how I was going to deal with that.
The pipe clamp I made worked good, but be careful the pipe doesn't slip through while your tightening the clamp. I believe a long bolt and wingnut would work better on the clamp than the rope I used. I really needed one more hand to tighten rope properly.
Thank you for the video, I was wondering in video 1 you said you removed the clay tile, I am getting ready to do mine with double wall flex pipe and wanted to know why you removed the old tile and if this is a step that can be skipped since I’m using a stainless pipe
I removed the clay liner because the stainless-steel liner would not fit down it. If it would have fit, I certainly would not remove it.
Awesome set of videos, what would be the life expectancy of this liner. Also when time comes to change this liner how would one do this?
Thank you for your comment.
Tubinox Stainless Steel Chimney Liner is guaranteed for life.
Hopefully, it will never need to be removed. But, if need be, you would have to disconnect all the tee joints and pull the liner up and out with a strong winch. Then, dig out all the insolation.
Where did you get your stainless steel chimney kit thanks
I got the Tubinox stainless steel chimney kit at Home Hardware.
Thank you for your video, I wasn't sure how to tackle this until today. I'm concerned, and feel stupid... In our 19 years of home ownership, no one mentioned to put a flu into our chimney; it's a 50's bungalow. Our furnace has been venting up a large, brick opening all these years. Fortunately the bricks seem to be in good shape, but do you have any comments about this for us?
Thanks Again,
Nichol
Thank you for your comment.
The bricks should be ok. It's the mortar that I would be concerned with. You should check for cracks and any loose mortar.
What do you burn in your furnace?
The mortar seems to be fine, no holes or crumbling. I'm not sure what to look for other than a visual inspection on the outside. Is there a more in depth inspection to be done here? We've retained an older and reliable, gravity furnace that has been retrofitted with a motor and fan' we love it, works great! It's natural gas.
Thanks for your time :)
@@renfrewcalgary2830 As long as there's no cracks, loose or missing mortar, it should be ok. The stainless steel liner and insulation will help protect the bricks and mortar.
Thanks for the reassurance and confidence. This is a great video, I know I can manage the job and understand the whole process... You're a good person for helping others, I share my knowledge too and this gives me faith in others!
Hi Again! It turns out we have a chimney liner made of 8 inch concrete. Because the there's been no cap protecting it, the aggregate is showing, but it is otherwise intact and solid. Do you see any reason to put an additional liner in this tube? My instincts say we got lucky and I can finish it off with a vent cap and flashing. Look forward to your next comment, thanks so much for your replies N
If you have to cut a piece how does it lock together then?
Thank you for the good question.
You shouldn't cut the liner. They come in all kinds of lengths from 6 to 48 inches, plus an adjustable length that telescopes from 7 to 11 inches.
Basa Pete thank you for the reply. I’m probably going to go with this liner in my chimney just hoping that everything lines up as good as yours did. You did an excellent job by the way!
@@casehunter8376 Thank you and good luck.
Just a heads up, installing an uninsulated liner into an unlined chimney doesn’t meet most manufacturers clearance requirements. Also, uninsulated liners in exterior chimneys allow the flue gases to cool very quickly, creating excessive creosote buildup. I would’ve pulled that crown off and wrapped that liner in a ceramic wool blanket, you had all the room in the world!!!!
Thank you for your comments and good advice. For insulating chimney liner please see DIY Chimney Liner Replacement Part 3 - Installing Thermix Insulation.
Jobs like this make us a fortune on repairs later on. Sooooo many hokie issues. People!!!!! Its your house!!! Pay a professional
Thanks for your comment Mr. Safer Chimney. Do you see any fault in the job I did? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
I would of definitely wrapped the liner in a 1/2-1” of heat blanket. Im not a big fan of sectional pieces. Also, we would of completely rebuilt the crown and set a new flue tile to complete the install. But you did a hell of alot better than most we have seen. Great job
Basa Pete and definitely brace the roof so if you fall you have something to catch on to😬😬
Did a fine job. Not every place is the same requirements but that chimney is going to be fine
PETE, SHOULDN'T THE MALE END FACE UP FIRST AND THE FEMALE END GO OVER THE MALE. SO AS THE EXHAUST GOES UP IT DOESN'T TRY TO SEEP OUT OF THE SEAM.
Thank you for your comment.
You'd think the male end would face up. But the chimney cap only comes with a male end, which forces you to have the female end of the chimney liner facing up.
PETE, THANKS FOR YOUR RESPONSE. IT IS THE FAULT OF THE MANUFACTURER BY DESIGNING IT THAT WHY.