How to Install a Chimney Liner and Damper | This Old House
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2014
- Creating a safe wood-burning fireplace with This Old House host Kevin O'Connor.
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Kevin heads to Dallas to help a homeowner line her fireplace chimney. Installing a chimney liner is a professional job that should only be performed by a qualified technician.
Expert assistance for this project was provided by Clint Sanner at Hale's Chimney Cleaning & Repair [www.haleschimney.com/].
Materials for this project were supplied by Lindemann Chimney Supply [www.lindemannchimneysupply.com/].
The insulating mortar that was installed in the firebox was Chamber-Tech 2000, manufactured by Ahrens Chimney Technique [www.ahrenfire.com/].
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How to Install a Chimney Liner and Damper | This Old House
/ thisoldhouse - Jak na to + styl
Dispatch: ma'am how'd you burn your hand?
Lady: I forgot to let the damper handle cool off before I grabbed it!
If you’re closing the damper, while the handle is still hot, you have more problems than a burned hand. You’ll be dead of carbon monoxide poisoning. The damper is only to be closed once it’s all the way out.
@@stevenroberts614 not really. Heat alone doesn't generate CO. Once the combustible material is burnt away, no CO.
That’s why I like to mount them to the left or the right side of the firebox
Great stuff. One of my early inspirations
I wish it showed this in extreme detail!
Yeah, wasn’t much of a “how to”
i agree.
Skipped the part about replacing the brick work in the firebox that was removed at the start of the procedure. The part I was most interested in seeing.
Some other guy probably tag teamed that while they were installing the roof parts. This was a well done installation though.
The hardware cloth on the collar was missed over with refractory cement to a depth of 2 inches. That provides more insulation than the original brick.
Can you provide more info on your comment
We have an old fireplace, just brick. We were planning on just using this, but after watching this video, we are going to hold off and have a company come in and do it right.
Its actually pretty easy to do
How much was it?
And it keeps out the squirrels, birds, raccoons and Santa Claus.
Santa has his way of getting down it, How do you think he gets down a chimney with a woodstove insert? ;)
Could this stainless steel liner be used as HVAC duct? It's cheaper to buy this in larger diameter. And I want to use on a wood stove as a heat exchanger. Thanks for any help
Where do I find the part that the sleeve connects to in the fireplace? That looks real handy
So I have a prefab fireplace and had the stone replaced. The rear stone is 4 inches below the z clip. Is that a problem?
The poured in insulation does not guarantee that the liner is not in contact with the chimney brick at points. This is required for the liner to assure zero clearance. It's safer than no liner, but far from as safe as with an insulation blanket.
Zero clearance doesn't need a wrap
@@puppylife7459 This is not a zero clearance fireplace so I'll assume you are referring to the liner. Zero clearance can not be guaranteed for pour-in insulation in this particular installation. There is a good chance that the bare liner will be against brick in some locations. The poured in insulation will not fill those areas of contact. An insulation blanket will ensure a safe installation with no risk of heat transfer.
Good
What is the material cost and labor$$.. and where would you find a bonified pro to do this job?
What type of mortar are they using to form the dome inside of the firebox? It doesn’t look like high heat mortar, which is oftentimes a white color and thinner consistency.
Yeah, looks like normal cement instead of fire cement. It will probably crack and fall off within a few months.
Does anyone know who I could hire to do this in southern Ontario?
where can I buy this for my house
This is the installation im working on. Where can i pickup the chimney liner from? And also does my fire box need to have a large smoke box? Or can i eliminate the smoke box and the shelf and just do the parging like he did..... I need someone's help....
Cloudland Report you can pick up the liner from a place called the internet. And you shouldn’t go anywhere near the fireplace while you are calling the firebox a “smoke box”.
🔥
I have watched quite a few of these videos now, and I have come to one conclusion. I'm calling someone who knows what the fuck they are doing. Take care y'all. Don't burn your house down.
The liner also looks undersized for the fireplace opening size.
Also once the bottom plate is installed you should use Chamber Tech or a similar high heat mortar to parge the smoke chamber. Not regular mortar. When regular mortar expands and contracts with heat, it will crack .
I just had a chimney fire and my guy said the same thing. Hes doing the repair for me and the chimney is damaged pretty bad. 13k for a repair.
Ther is no smoke chamber anymore
Tell you what, they did use chamber tech.
Can you buy that pipe ovalized like that?
So once the fire is started what do you do if you realize you didn’t open the damper looks like you’d have to reach in the fire to open it.
YOLO
I am a Certified Chimney Sweep and I noticed something the gentleman did in this video that was not proper. The original cap did not allow the damper to fully open. There should be a minimum of 8” from the top of the liner until the top of the cap for the chimney to draft properly. I wouldn’t be surprised if they are having a back drafting issue because the flue is being choked.
I have a question for you. Did they fill the entire chimney with "insulation"? It wasn't at all clear what they did?
Hopefully the inspector caught that. Then again, if the that’s the case they would edit the video. Hopefully..:)
@@throwaway692 Seems impossible with that method. See my other post above.
@@NFL1976 In retrospect it was a dumb question on my part. I'll just chalk it up to being completely unfamiliar with how things are done. I've had a chance to do a little more research and talk to some people who work in the business. What I really have been trying to find out is how you fit a 6" pipe through a damper that's only 3.5" across. And the answer is what I figured it would be. You have to cut the damper out. LOL!
@@throwaway692 so, I was about to ask same question. Did you find out?
it opens up unless it stopped working right
Can this be done with an insert?
What happened to the brick portion that the removed chiney cap sat on, should I assume they filled in the remaining space of the flue, what type motar used for that and inside firebox, this is a video for an idea but if someone didn't ask questions they would possibly burn their house down by following just this video, seeme carelessly done
I have a1983 house can I put a insert in a double flu chimney
I just bought a home (5 days ago) that has a damper just like this. I assumed that the cable hanging inside the fireplace was for an internal damper inside the flue...but no i know.
I just bought a house for month ago and has a damper like that I don't know where the damper handle is
Cut your old dampener out and put an adjustable top dampener on
My home was built in 1821, my main chimney that is hooked to my furnace has no flue/liner. I want to get a liner installed and a flue is not an option because my chimney runs at an angle.
Shallow fireppace I would just put a small wood stove there.
seoulkidd1 do your research. You actually don’t need a deep firebox if you have the correct draft during the fire. The flue will act as a vacuum. Too deep of a firebox and you will lose all your heat up the chimney.
That’s reason they removed firebox that allows you to widen box
Fireplaces are for LOOKS. terrible idea for HEATING an area. Burn up all the oxygen in the room. CANCEL this whole idea. ridiculous
I assume he didn't trowel in enough insulation to reach all the way down to the firebox. With ours, they poured in a fair bit around the pipe. He had only a couple gallons worth there.
That cement insulation seem so dry, I can not see how that is going to fall and fill the inside completely. He your said soupy but that was more of a paste. however, I hear that changing a chimney linger with that cement poured it will always be either an over change to remove it or an " I'm not relining your chimney sir"
They cut out the shitty part of hauling 30 buckets full of insulation to the chimney. But yeah...it is filled up. You only use the soft kind when the chimney and liner are a tight fit. Else you wrap your liner with fireproof blanket while you shove it in.
Tejano37 it’s not cement they are pouring around the liner, it’s insulation, it’s not supposed to harden like cement, but will firm up a bit. The insulation needs to be able to fall apart easily just in case the liner needs to be removed someday if it fails. If it was cement, the liner would never come out. It’s actually overkill using the insulation in a interior chimney because an interior chimney is already warm and away from the elements. If it was an exterior chimney then definitely some sort of insulation should go around the liner. The liner is installed for the purpose of directing all of the gases up and out of the house, so if the liner was breached the insulation wouldn’t even help or have anything to do with protection against flue gases.
@@akaredcrossbow The liner was put in our house to isolate the gasses from the creosote that was built up in the chimney. It was to prevent a potential house fire, not to insulate against the outside.
Pete Brown Yes that is what a liner is supposed to do. To be honest the insulation won’t really help if there is a fire in the liner, an annual cleaning will help prevent a fire and remove the creosote deposits along with using an anti creosote product. The insulation will help a bit with above normal temperatures but so won’t an air space around the liner and the existing brick flue passageway. If you have exposed combustibles like wood penetrating the brick into the flue then you need those areas taken care of immediately. If you have an interior chimney and you have it insulated it will still have the same amount of creosote build up as an interior chimney without insulation. If you feel safer with the insulation around the liner then that gives you the piece of mind it’s ok. All I’m saying is it’s an extra cost that isn’t 100% necessary but good practice for an interior chimney. In this video the liner is still right up against the existing brick because it’s such a tight fit that the insulation has no chance to get to those areas, so about 50% of the liner in this video only has insulation around it, so it’s really not doing anything, but giving the customer a false sense of security and putting more money into the installers pocket.
So the damper is installed inside the chimney cage. Too bad very little time was shown on how to attach the damper to the top of the chimney. The damper cable may be a problem in the back of the firebox.
No, No, No. You guys have it all wrong. The more creasote build up between the liner and terracotta equals more insulation. Let that creasote build up. Nature's insulation.
@@darwincrabtree6580 that is dumb.. do you not understand how flammable creosote is? LOL Thats a whole fire hazard.
@@joohsay i was being fisiecious. Youre absoluteltly right. Sorry you didnt get my intent.
They didn't clearly show where he was placing the damp insulating material at the top. Could someone explain where and how much of it is needed? Thanks
The chimney is square and the liner is inside of that right? The liner insulation is a vermiculite mix with Portland cement usually. It is poured between the existing brick and the new liner being sure none goes down the inside of the new liner. The chimney liner should have centering springs around the outside to make sure the liner sits at least and inch off the existing brick to allow for the insulation to fill all sides. But its hard to guarantee all the mix fills in from the bottom with no voids. You fill it to about 6 inches under the top of the chimney. It will dry eventually to a light weight material.
The better method is rigid liner with insulating jacket or in this case because they needed an oval, a factory insulated smooth wall liner in 316 stainless. This guarantees the whole liner is insulated and avoids the possibility of the smoke box collar parging from collapsing dus to the mixed insulation.
The Cadillac method is called a cast in place chimney liner. An inflatable tube is sent down the chimney with centering springs. The bottom is parked to the inflated tube. 24 hours later the crew comes back and pumps in a material that solidifies around the tube while giving the existing brick chimney greater strength. The tube is deflated and pulled out (centering springs now embedded into the cast material RIP).
All methods should have a top mount damper as it's the best type of damper to have for efficiency and pest intrusion.
@@MrBurgandy25 I recently got quoted almost 8k to do what he did in this video. One of the things quoted was to remove the old existing clay tile. Is that necessary if a stainless steel flex pipe will be inserted?
Skipping a lot of information.
how much does this type of job normally run??
Danny VABEACH looking at 4500-6800
Anywhere from $1500 to $5000. You can do it yourself. Its really easy
3500-4500 here in the south. But you can do it yourself for about 1500 and a weeks time.
@@jimmybob7364 where do find some of the material? Especially the insulated stainless steel flex tube?
Would love to know what they could do to make a fireplace and chimney less of a heat suck when not in use. They did this to a degree but it seems like a new fireplace could have a lot more insulation.
Get an insert. Much better at radiating heat than a fireplace.
Install a fireplace insert, a wood stove, or at the very least make a tight fitting decorative cover for the whole front of the fireplace, for when you go to bed.. At least then the heat from your house won't be lost up the chimney all the rest of the time (or till you close the damper). Modern fireplaces would be built "heatilator style" to capture some of the heat that normally just goes up the flue.
Pretty flimsy damper. I wish they showed more of the mortar being installed in the firebox... how thick and how difficult to install. Also, referencing another comment on this page... what is keeping the insulation from dropping to the bottom of the chimney. TOH seems to show about 75% of installations in many of these videos. Another minute or so would give the whole story...
They put the mortar down the top after they installed the liner and probably after it dries. They only show the highlights of about an 8-hour job. I would think they'd fill the whole chimney to stop any gases escaping into the house.
+Porsche924Tim Worst part is some day that damper is going to stick from being exposed to soot and the outdoor elements. Hard on the home owner because they will most likely have to hire some one who will overcharge to fix it.
+Charles Damery Filling the chimney would be a very good idea given the dangers of carbon monoxide! Sad thing is that safety can end up on the back burner due to cost of materials. Carbon monoxide is an odorless gas that can seep through cracks so you could never be too safe as this gas is the cause of entire households never wakening up(death).
That’s the whole reason to why they have their own tv show... so you can watch the whole installment being done.
Crawford Dynasty the homeowner should have a chimney sweep out to clean and inspect annually anyway!
Where can I buy fireplace liner
Out west. I think Montana mountain supply
That temper will last for years or maybe two!
Couldn't the weight of snow interfere with that damper causing smoke and carbon monoxide to re enter the home?
Looked like there was an additional chimney cap that went over the damper.
Yes there's a cement down cap they should've used a layman's damper rather then a pop top .. when he opens the damper you hear it hit the top of the original cap!
Fireplace liners have to be huge, so to properly evacuate all heat from your home within 1 hour and leave you freezing cold.
Get a stove.
Sometimes it seems like Kevin is a color commentator who is there for comic relief.
that's exactly what he is and has been.. I remember when he was first on.. the beginning of the over explaining .
Cool job. But harness and rope. So much slack you would fall off the roof before the rope would hold you. LMAO
So the heat from the house has just been going up the chimney forever with no damper.
that's why you burn a fire in the firebox dummy lol
I would have just sealed the thing off and been done with it. We wouldn't have a video though.
You really dont need to blast out half the firebox to install a fireplace liner just drop it in place stuff the voids with insulation and spray the chamber with smoketite
You could do that if you have small voids, but with larger voids the smoketite starts to crack after a couple of years because of lack of structure and gravity.
I got quoted 8k to have this done to my fireplace.
Pop top damper is hitting that cement down cap I can hear it when n he opened it to show her...
mine was replaced 4 Days ago But the Guy just used corrugated metal 6 inch tubing I have a 1896 Field stone Chimney . He did not use a Liner insulator nor My 9 by 13 Flue Cover ,,Some Feed back Please .....
Amoora call and get your money back it will smoke for sure . open fireplaces need 8-9-10and up depending on the style and sqare inches of thefire box.
Go to the CSIA website and type in your zip code to find a true professional
If they won’t redo it right, call a home/safety inspector to verify it was not to code. Then small claims court if needed.
Is it legal and safe to line only half the fireplace? We are trying to install a wood burning insert but the chimney guys say they can’t get the liner to turn around the bend so have offered to only line half the chimney ... they say it’s fine... seems dodgy to me 😳
No you cannot line half ! Call a different company !
just imaging dump all that dry mix in and it just flooding the living room.
Is he implying that he filled that whole chimeny w that mix? They didnt show the top troweling and how it looked.
Why would you need a liner in a masonry chimney? Heat won't transfer through bricks enough to catch fire. That seems excessive. What am I missing here?
Likely because they found out the homeowner had too much money? A woodstove insert def needs a liner, but an existing fireplace not so much (due to being so inefficient that the creosote just mostly goes up and out.
no liner and possibly missing mortar between bricks and voids =great chance of heat transfer
Carbon monoxide leaking into the house from cracked mortar is always a possibility.
That damper handle is going to get hot. Don’t close it right away after the fire dies out.
Too bad that chimney cap is too short and therefore that lock too damper won’t open all the way now
Un fucking believable that they didn't rebuild the entire firebox..... Did they know this was going to be on tv???
They didnt really leave the firebox looking that ugly did they? compare to the original. how the firebox looks is a huge part of the charm to having a real fireplace.
I gotta have mine replaced. $1300.
Cheap price for fireplace
We mustn't let the liner touch the brick chimney, or otherwise the brick might become too hot and burn up 🙄
Lol
actually many chimneys have voids or cracks in flue tiles or even unlined chimneys-----HEAT TRANSFER is a real thing, and because solid fuels such as coal or wood burn hotter than oil or gas.....the liner must be insulated.
Just wrap the liner, why even mess with the pour in stuff. Didn't even show the bottom plate install to support all the media.
He filled that whole chimney with that cement. No way
This is ridiculous. never burn anything in the house. PERIOD
Jesus Christ...I can just imagine how much this would cost. Would I need to do this if I installed a gas log?
If you convert fuel and don't have a liner, yes. If you convert fuel and have a liner, you need a sweep and a scan.
if it is a vented gas log yes, and a throat damper must be installed =no top sealing dampers with vented log burners.....if vent free burner you do not have to reline
Lol.... An ovalized liner does NOT have the same cross sectional area as a round one.
Hitch Slap however the volume based on the actual size of the fireplace opening was satisfactory. He just miss stated. He said 10"rd was the correct volume but that fireplace was good to be vented with 9"rd. Since the liner had to be ovalized, he is required to increase to 10"rd. And have it ovalized in order to have adequate draw with a 1/10 ratio.
good thing they cut out the cusing and frustration.
I don't know because I am definitely not an expert, but I don't see this as a good retrofit. It seems too cheap somehow. I'm probably wrong though.
How to do it as cheap as possible. See you again in 5 years
Think I would of rather just installed a throat damper.
these guys will never recommend that chimney services Con you out of thousands of dollars because most people aren't aware of how basic and simple the system is.
Just call a professional chimney company!
the insulation used on this is terrible.. once this hack job ages and needs to be replaced, the chimney is then 100% useless.
That looks like an 8x12 flue, which a 6x10 liner should be installed for maximum draft. The smaller liner significantly reduces the flue size, and this may result in draft issues with that said additional work may be needed by installing a smokeguard or a fan, which is expensive and requires another visit plus an electrician. 😉 corrections are welcome 😌
I can’t be the only one that thinks that damper cable is in a horrible position ? Let’s just say u start a fire with out it open. Well now the metal cable/handle is fuming hot and the smoke is trapped in your house
Nick need to have a good pair of heat rated gloves next to the fireplace. Also it’s a good idea to have a small sign made up near the fireplace reminding you or others how to operate the damper. There is also a safety mechanism at the top, a piece of lead that will melt and that will pop open the top mounted damper if the temperature gets to high.
4:40 dude wtf. How the fk is that damper supposed to raise up with that cover you screwed over top of it. Is 1/2" of movement supposed to be sufficient?
No clear explanation why this chimney would need a liner. The way chimneys are built there is hardly ever a need for a liner is my understanding. Until you talk to a guy selling liners.
The Chimney was brick only. No flue tiles. Not allowed according to current codes.
Once flue liners are cracked or have holes in mortar joint gases can escape and somehow make their way through the brick and drywall into your home. Don’t ask idk how.
Not burning wood in a brick chimney is the most ridiculous thing I’ve ever heard.
Back in the day fire places were made for coal burning you also have to change the hearth
Usually make it thicker and meet code
Fireplaces are nice for decoration but the worst heating option nowadays. Most of the calories goes to heat open air through that liner.
True. Even Ben Franklin knew that in 1742...when he invented the Franklin stove insert.
The lady could of saved herself a ton of money and aggravation if she had installed a small wood stove insert instead. They come with their own damper and a cheaper 6" liner could of been used instead. Not to mention the saving of heat loss from a traditional fireplace.
Cheap liners don't last long .. they need to e Double-wall 2ply .. not single wall they pivot and burn out quick aluminum liners
First
They sure didn't want anybody looking at their pour in insulation// must have been a poor job
Sept. 14 is my Birthday
You didn’t show anything helpful what’s the point of the channel? We need more details
That poor woman is flatter than a two day old can of Coors.
@M R so you noticed.
@M R does M R stand for :
*MEATY RECTUM* !?!
Hot if you like men.
Not enough insulation. One inch is required on all sides. There is no way they made sure that flexible liner wasn't touching the sides of the chimney somewhere in that chimney. If 1/2" of insulation wrap wouldn't fit, 1" of poured surely won't. Also, the fireplace required a 10" diameter liner. Once the liner is ovalized, it isn't equivalent to 10" anymore. Take a paper cup, fill it to the top with water, and "ovalize " the cup with your hand: When you do, water will overflow the top.
Randolf Wayridge no it only does that because of the fact that your cup has two different diameters. What they did was take a pipe with a constant diameter at both ends and change its shape at a constant amount therby keeping the internal volume equivalent to the original. In the case of your cup example the volume changes ever so slightly due to differing radii at the top and bottom.
Your reasoning is wrong. It has a constant perimeter but not a constant diameter. A circle 10" in diameter has a circumference of 31.4" and an area of about 78" square. Let's assume you squeeze this really far down. You now have an oval with a circumference of 31.4" and sides that are 15.7" long. The area of this shape is pi * long radius * short radius. This works out to 0. Perimeter is the same but the area is smaller. Area is smaller so volume is smaller (since length stayed the same).
IIRC the Romans had trouble with auquaducts over a certain size because they made the same mistake.
Yeah okay Mr. Know it all
@@stevenhollingsworth3249 Nonsense. A circle has a higher cross-sectional area for a given perimeter length than any other closed figure. Ovalizing it, squaring it, "trianguliziing" it or any other manipulation of its cross section will reduce the area and lessen the draft. Just think of what would happen if one continued squeezing it until opposite sides of the original circle touch. (This is an ellipse of infinite eccentricity and is essentially a double straight line.) There would be no path for the gases whatsoever. This reduction of cross section begins the minute one deviates from a prefect circle.
@@WayneTesta4444 Umm... Wouldn't one prefer to have a person with Mr. Pruitt's underrstanding of geometry working on one's house?
WOW, I am NOT impressed.
The "poured in insulation" was pretty much a worthless section that did NOTHING to show what was required. It appeared/sounded like they put one bucket of "insulation" that was nothing but mortar and just dumped it down the existing chimney which I'm sure is not what they actually did.
As for that damper......JUNK that will cause the liner to fail due to a cable moving up and down each time you light a fire. Not to mention you're gonna need a glove to reach back there and close the nasty sooty base of the cable. YUCK
So many things wrong with this installation.
choked the chimney now its gonna smoke
Mario Dinovo Absolutely!!! I've been a CSIA Certified chimney sweep for the last 12 yrs and I would never have terminated the fireplace that way. It may work, however, a much better solution would have been to remove the large semi-custom rain/animal cap and installed a 13"x18" terra-cotta flue piece in its place (a 1' section would have worked). Then I would have poured a new concrete crown approx 4" thick with a 2" overhang. This crown is far superior to the mortar wash that they currently have. At that point you could have installed a 13"x18" top mounted damper to that new section of terra-cotta. This solution would definitely not had any drafting problems.
Dominic C, where are you from? I'm in a similar situation as the video whereas I'm looking to have a chimney liner and damper installed correctly to an older home. You wouldn't happen to be in located in southern CA would you?
@@jaytromblee6255 Where in So Cal are you? And didi you have this done yet?
Dominic C. Just put an Enervex/Exhausto fan at the top along with the new crown and be done with it. Make sure it’s inspected and or swept every year!
@@jaytromblee6255 Sorry for the late response. Unfortunately I'm not, but feel free to check out Capital Chimney Corp's CZcams page for more videos on fireplaces if your interested. Thanks.
I was going to watch this video but after 2 minutes of commercials i lost interest.
Wow this was awful. Didn't show any of the brick repair or how the insulation was held in place. Why didn't it just pour down the cavity?
I feel like they don't want anyone doing this themselves or even trying as the details could have been explained without making the vid too much longer. In every old home I've lived in the damper is opened and closed by a crank on the front of side of the fireplace and is two, overlapping flaps of heavy metal up inside the chimney. Not liking that flimsy contraption at the top of the house.
if you put in a wood stove or insert usually those are built in dampeners on the unit itself the roof top dampener works great for a traditional open pitfire place or I guess if you don't have one on your stove for some reason .... none of these places want you doing it by yourself because they want to charge you 7 to 12 Grand I did all this s*** myself for cost of liner around 350 these people try to scare the public and the thinking they can't do it themselves because it's not a very common thing but after you figure it out it's as simple as grade school
@@shawnmichael6190 where did you find the liner?
@@dblood8529 go to Rockford chimney supply they are top notch service the technicians will guide you every step but it is really straight forward for the most, liner kit was around 650.00 including top cap insulation wrap kit around 200.00, you just pull it down and cut the length you don't remove anything like Clay tile unless you can't fit the liner down, liner is 6 inch diameter the insulation adds about a extra inch you can get the insulation poured kit if space is tight you can get away with skipping the insulation if you have to, you will be happy you did it yourself
@@shawnmichael6190 thank you. Yeah it seems pretty straightforward. The only issue I’m having it thinking about the damper. I’m wonder how do I parge with that in place. Thanks for the information again. Definitely not paying 8k for this job. Honestly I think a lot of it is scared tactics.
Who pieces together liners for a wood burning fireplace, stove or insert? Then they don’t leave enough room for the pop top damper to open fully. This is a poor install.
More so they gave her a simple pop top I always install the adjustable top dampeners so you can adjust the things who wants one that's either opened or closed
@@shawnmichael6190 I recently got quoted almost 8k to do what he did in this video. One of the things quoted was to remove the old existing clay tile. Is that necessary if a stainless steel flex pipe will be inserted?
That damper is a bad set up when it breaks or it’s Having problems people are gonna have to keep climbing the roof . There’s a reason why dampers belong inside the fire box where it’s easily accessible and you need a solid iron damper with a solid latch that will last forever . Also I don’t like the aluminum flu liner just seems like a dumb useless idea I would of gone with a brick flu liner . In my respective opinion all this work is bad
You know how much more it cost to add a terracotta flue liner
Ludicrous. never burn ANYTHING in that small location.
"So that's the position it should be when you have a fire"
Nothing like treating and talking to women like they're morons... Good job 👍