I just received my intake kit with the spacer block for the Weber. I can barely wait to remove the old manifold and install this shiny new Offenhauser. Great video, thank you, Jim H.
Just did this same thing for my 88. Literally like 15 min ago I finished it lol but my bottom coolant block plate that goes toward the front of the engine started leaking.. must not of used the right sealent. Ended up getting the permix water pump sealent. Waiting for it to dry now hopfully it’s good to go. Didn’t see any other leaks tho
I just bought the same manifold because I have an air leak with the stock manifold… and I need to install it asap! What size Allen key did you use for the plugs? LC said 1/2’ and 3/8’ which I bought and the 3/8 don’t fit, what size hose did you use? And did you use a small tubing cutter to cut the heater tubing?
I realize this a little late but I used 5/8 inch tubing. The Allen key size i used were 8mm and I believe 12mm for the big one. And yes, I used a small hose cutter for the heater core tube. Hope that helps!
Wow thanks! I'm thinking about getting this for my 85, mostly to clean up the engine bay. I'll buy the whole kit with Weber carburetor. Does the offenhauser work just as well as the original?
Where is the heater hose now going since you put the square plate in center of head and also does it matter which side of the water pump the hose on bottom of intake goes to
Any way I could get some info on how you routed your tubes and everything, just got this exact setup and am kind of confused as to what hoses go where and whatnot. Great video and thank you!
The bottom of the intake goes to the heater core tube, the one that routes around the back of the head. The square water port on the head is blocked along with the port on the back side of the water pump. I show it in the video around 2:41. Hope that helps!
I just noticed the huge spacer block beneath the carb? I didn't see that on the LCE video showing the Weber install? Is this a new thing, or you need it for the 4x4? Mines a 2wd
Its a spiral spacer block for a weber intake. Its supposed to add about 5 hp in the midrange RPM and to answer your question, no its not needed, its just a little upgrade.
I'm installing mine now and noticed your thermostat housing has a sensor in it, mine is plain. What year is the engine, or is the housing from something else? Thank you, Jim.
That sensor is for a water temperature guage I have on my A pillar. It is aftermarket gauge and I just tapped that housing. The factory temp gauge does screw into the offenhauser intake no problem. This motor is a 1987 22R.
If you also notice, in the beginning of the video I had an inline sensor mount on the top radiator hose, so all I did was move the sensor to the thermostat housing instead
I’ve got a 90 22r, did you use your stock throttle cable brackets? I’m running into an issue, my bracket does not look like your and doesn’t mate up to the new intake
Are we talking then braket that's on top of the valve cover or the one on the back of the weber? The one on the weber comes with the weber and you keep the bracket that is on top of the valve cover. You also retain the throttle return spring bracket on the intake as well, mine has spacers under it as I am running a LCE spacer block for webers.
Yeah, my issue appears to have been a lack of spacers. I ended up modifying the bracket that mounts on top of the intake manifold. LCE shorted me 4 bolts and two spacers, unfortunately even with doing a line by line inventory of received parts, they don’t send you an itemized list of what is supposed to come in each bag. Thanks for the response.
For the brake booster, there is a threaded hole and you just swap over the the little barb that is in the factory intake. The vacuum advance goes on the side of the weber, there is only one port on the side of the weber and it goes to the outer vacuum port on the distributor, so you essentially have only one vacuum line. If you buy a weber carb kit, there is a pcv adapter that just bolts to the intake where the egr value went originally, its that brass peice with the barb coming out of it.
The dual plane is for low RPM applications and the single is for midrange to higher applications. I went with the single as this truck is not a rock crawler
Hey, great video, super straight forward video! I have 2 questions I was hoping you could help me with! Would you be able to measure the height the carb/carb air filter that extends past the top of the valve cover? I have a 22r going into a VW BUS and I am wondering about fitment. Ive had it all installed with a stock manifold and adapters but plan to upgrade to offenhauser/ sprial adapter that you are running. (I have a weber 32/36.) Also how does the mechanical fuel pump run with your setup? I am debating if I switch my mechanical to electric because from reading on forums webers like a even consistent pull of fuel to the carb when the mechanical pump pulses fuel to carb. I am trying to eliminate as many hiccups before the final install comes for my conversion! (which is in a few weeks!) Thanks, Ethan!
Awesome, I just found your channel. I have the same truck. I will be doing the same thing. Did you use a 32/36 Weber? That's what I have from my other 2-TC engine. A Weber is the ticket for sure.
Where is the heater hose now going since you put the square plate in center of head and also does it matter which side of the water pump the hose on bottom of intake goes to
@@1987toyota I just got a 81 pickup and the driver side water pump is blocked off no pipe going around but my passenger side has a pipe, does it matter which side they connect to
I just received my intake kit with the spacer block for the Weber. I can barely wait to remove the old manifold and install this shiny new Offenhauser. Great video, thank you, Jim H.
buenas tardes para que se cancela la salida de agua caliente al colector de admisión hacia la bomba de agua ?
Just did this same thing for my 88. Literally like 15 min ago I finished it lol but my bottom coolant block plate that goes toward the front of the engine started leaking.. must not of used the right sealent. Ended up getting the permix water pump sealent. Waiting for it to dry now hopfully it’s good to go. Didn’t see any other leaks tho
The same thing happened to mine as well, I ended up just tightening the bolts down a little harder and it fixed it.👍
I just bought the same manifold because I have an air leak with the stock manifold… and I need to install it asap! What size Allen key did you use for the plugs? LC said 1/2’ and 3/8’ which I bought and the 3/8 don’t fit, what size hose did you use? And did you use a small tubing cutter to cut the heater tubing?
I realize this a little late but I used 5/8 inch tubing. The Allen key size i used were 8mm and I believe 12mm for the big one. And yes, I used a small hose cutter for the heater core tube. Hope that helps!
Wow thanks! I'm thinking about getting this for my 85, mostly to clean up the engine bay. I'll buy the whole kit with Weber carburetor. Does the offenhauser work just as well as the original?
Works better in my opinion👍
Hey brotha! What valve cover hold down bolts did you use? I’m a fan of those over the stud and nut style. I can’t seem to find them anywhere
I bought them from 22RE Performance👍
Nice work
It sounds more responsive, does that thing burn tire ?
Where is the heater hose now going since you put the square plate in center of head and also does it matter which side of the water pump the hose on bottom of intake goes to
The bottom fitting on the intake is hooked up to pipe that routes around the back of the head. I show this, albeit not well, in the video.
did you run into vapor lock? I'm using my original intake with the lce spiral adapter, it runs great but cranking it up when its hot takes a minute.
I've had no such issues. The spiral adapter shouldn't be causing any starting issues unless there is a vacuum leak.
Any way I could get some info on how you routed your tubes and everything, just got this exact setup and am kind of confused as to what hoses go where and whatnot. Great video and thank you!
The bottom of the intake goes to the heater core tube, the one that routes around the back of the head. The square water port on the head is blocked along with the port on the back side of the water pump. I show it in the video around 2:41. Hope that helps!
And at around 5:05 you can see me installing these block plates
cool stuff
I just noticed the huge spacer block beneath the carb? I didn't see that on the LCE video showing the Weber install? Is this a new thing, or you need it for the 4x4? Mines a 2wd
Its a spiral spacer block for a weber intake. Its supposed to add about 5 hp in the midrange RPM and to answer your question, no its not needed, its just a little upgrade.
I dont have a dyno so I can't say if it helps or not, cant tell if its the offenhauser intake and the spacer or what but it does add a little kick
what is that blue stuff you put on your intake before you put the spacer gasket on?
Its permatex gasket dressing and sealant
NICE JOB im have a 22r same but not pick up ista toyota cressida 87 ist expensive buy this my friend gretings from Costa Rica
I'm installing mine now and noticed your thermostat housing has a sensor in it, mine is plain. What year is the engine, or is the housing from something else? Thank you, Jim.
That sensor is for a water temperature guage I have on my A pillar. It is aftermarket gauge and I just tapped that housing. The factory temp gauge does screw into the offenhauser intake no problem. This motor is a 1987 22R.
If you also notice, in the beginning of the video I had an inline sensor mount on the top radiator hose, so all I did was move the sensor to the thermostat housing instead
Where did you get the radiator fan shroud.
Came with the truck, I just repainted it and added that sticker on top
I’ve got a 90 22r, did you use your stock throttle cable brackets? I’m running into an issue, my bracket does not look like your and doesn’t mate up to the new intake
Are we talking then braket that's on top of the valve cover or the one on the back of the weber? The one on the weber comes with the weber and you keep the bracket that is on top of the valve cover. You also retain the throttle return spring bracket on the intake as well, mine has spacers under it as I am running a LCE spacer block for webers.
Yeah, my issue appears to have been a lack of spacers. I ended up modifying the bracket that mounts on top of the intake manifold. LCE shorted me 4 bolts and two spacers, unfortunately even with doing a line by line inventory of received parts, they don’t send you an itemized list of what is supposed to come in each bag. Thanks for the response.
Was there a specific torque and sequence you used when tightening the manifold? If so, what did you reference for it?
I just referenced where the coolant line hooks up to. As far as sequence, I do criss-cross pattern and do snug with a wrench
Cleetus McFarlands time lapse music.
You know it😆
Is the spacer beneath the thermostat housing necessary?
Yes, unless you have the early style thermostat housing, which has the longer neck on it that connects to the radiator hose
Where do you route your distributors vacuum advance, pcv and brake booster vacuum?
For the brake booster, there is a threaded hole and you just swap over the the little barb that is in the factory intake. The vacuum advance goes on the side of the weber, there is only one port on the side of the weber and it goes to the outer vacuum port on the distributor, so you essentially have only one vacuum line. If you buy a weber carb kit, there is a pcv adapter that just bolts to the intake where the egr value went originally, its that brass peice with the barb coming out of it.
🙏🙏🙏 I'm going to do this. Prior owner tore and capped half of the emissions stuff out, making big fat vacuum problems for me to fix so thanks a bunch
Installed and what a difference
@@mitchellstocker6191 glad to hear it!👍
Question Single or dual plane…. And manual or electric choke???? I want buy but asking for that on website?????
The dual plane is for low RPM applications and the single is for midrange to higher applications. I went with the single as this truck is not a rock crawler
This is a electric choke carb as well
Got a part # for that intake gasket ?
Its on LCE Engineering's website and just search Teflon gasket and it should pop up.
Did you keep the heater?
Yes, that line out of the bottom of the intake goes to the heater core and so you can keep your heater.
Hey, great video, super straight forward video! I have 2 questions I was hoping you could help me with!
Would you be able to measure the height the carb/carb air filter that extends past the top of the valve cover? I have a 22r going into a VW BUS and I am wondering about fitment. Ive had it all installed with a stock manifold and adapters but plan to upgrade to offenhauser/ sprial adapter that you are running. (I have a weber 32/36.)
Also how does the mechanical fuel pump run with your setup? I am debating if I switch my mechanical to electric because from reading on forums webers like a even consistent pull of fuel to the carb when the mechanical pump pulses fuel to carb. I am trying to eliminate as many hiccups before the final install comes for my conversion! (which is in a few weeks!)
Thanks,
Ethan!
Awesome, I just found your channel. I have the same truck. I will be doing the same thing. Did you use a 32/36 Weber? That's what I have from my other 2-TC engine. A Weber is the ticket for sure.
In this video I put a Weber 38 on which adds a lot of power, I did have a 32/36 on there before which has been great as well, very reliable
Cancel the manual fan
You'll get more power with electric fans.
Where is the heater hose now going since you put the square plate in center of head and also does it matter which side of the water pump the hose on bottom of intake goes to
The hose on the bottom of the intake goes to the heater core pipe that wraps around the head. You block the port on the back of the water pump.
@@1987toyota I just got a 81 pickup and the driver side water pump is blocked off no pipe going around but my passenger side has a pipe, does it matter which side they connect to