The Simple Trick to a Perfect Bleed & Lever Feel on Magura Brakes • The Duke of MTB
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- čas přidán 29. 01. 2021
- Need help getting all the air out of your Magura brakes? Do you want a firm and consistent lever feel? Than this video is for you! Do this every time you shorten your hoses or flush new oil through your Magura brakes. Feel free to leave any questions in the comments below.
A FEW UPDATES/MUST READ:
1. You don't have to pull as much of a vacuum as I did in this video. You can either fill the syringe with a little more fluid, or just don't push all the air out to start with the plunger higher up. This is especially important on the front brake due to the shorter hose. If you're having a really hard time pulling the plunger past the hole, it's probably too much vacuum. Although it's unlikely that you might damage something, it's best to stay on the safe side.
2. The hole on the syringe doesn't have to be at the 30ml mark. It simply needs to be toward the top, but not so high that the plunger won't go past it. If you have a 25ml syringe, that's fine. If you have a larger syringe, you can drill the hole lower.
3. Turns out that newer Magura bleed kits now come with a pre-drilled hole in one of the syringes. On older sets, you used to have to make the hole yourself.
4. When filling the brakes from scratch(like when you install a new brake hose), make sure to have the caliper vertical or you might end up with a large air pocket that will cause a lack of pressure resulting in the lever pulling to the bar. If you feel no resistance/pressure at the lever, this is a likely cause.
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*A FEW UPDATES/MUST READ:*
*1.* _You don't have to pull as much of a vacuum as I did in this video. You can either fill the syringe with a little more fluid, or just don't push all the air out to start with the plunger higher up. This is especially important on the front brake due to the shorter hose. If you're having a really hard time pulling the plunger past the hole, it's probably too much vacuum. Although it's unlikely that you might damage something, it's best to stay on the safe side._
*2.* _The hole on the syringe doesn't have to be at the 30ml mark. It simply needs to be toward the top, but not so high that the plunger won't go past it. If you have a 25ml syringe, that's fine. If you have a larger syringe, you can drill the hole lower._
*3.* _Turns out that newer Magura bleed kits now come with a pre-drilled hole in one of the syringes. On older sets, you used to have to make the hole yourself._
*4.* _When filling the brakes from scratch(like when you install a new brake hose), make sure to have the caliper vertical or you might end up with a large air pocket that will cause a lack of pressure resulting in the lever pulling to the bar. If you feel no resistance/pressure at the lever, this is a likely cause._
Yep I have one. The newer kit. 🤙
Where can a buy one of the newer kits? Drilling a hole yourself doesn’t work as the plunger in the syringe gets stuck at the rough drill hole area. Also, is there a way to get a spare fill hole screw if it gets stripped? Is the thread in the lever assembly metal or plastic. The screw is plastic.
@@jack4321able You can buy a replacement screw on WorldwideCyclery.com. It's called an ebt screw. It's made of a softer plastic than the lever body so as not to strip the threads. Only screw it in until it's flush, do not tighten. In regard to the bleed kit, it's difficult to know if you're getting the new predrilled kit or not when buying one. I took an angled nail clipper to cut off the bits sticking up on the inside of the syringe and then lightly sanded it. Haven't had any issues. Good luck. 👍
@@jack4321able if you buy the genuine MAGURA SERVICE KIT it has 2 syringes in it, tube, end fittings for the tube. spare fittings - barbs, banjos ect, plugs for the end of the hose if you need to trim it down.. one syringe has the hole pre drilled for use at the lever end ... where are you based UK or another country ?
Since Covid over here in Eorpe all bike parts are at a premium and its hard to get hold of anything, My LBS is asking me for parts :)
Simply amazing-- I've tried several different techniques (detailed in various other tutorial videos on YT) to try to get my Magura's just right and none worked---until I found this. Not only is it much simpler than other techniques--it actually works. You are a genius! I can't thank you enough
Just glad I could help. I remember being disappointed with my Magura brakes at first. It wasn't until after I discovered this method on a German mtb forum that I started to really fall in love with how hassle free these brakes can be. I figured I'd spread the word and save some people the frustration. Now we have Magura brakes on all our bikes. The only con is just how darn long it takes to bed in a new set of Magura rotors before you really get that power they're known for. Still, worth it. 😁👍
This method was an life saver.. I was at the point to throw magura out of the window after several bleeds with no improvements.
Haha. I felt the same when I first got Magura brakes. Even tried Shimano levers for a while, but with this bleed method and hc3 levers, the Shigura setup feels like garbage in comparison. Glad it worked out. Now you'll be hooked on Magura for life. Lol
My rear level was getting spongy and this fixed it without having to do a full bleed. Thanks!
Wow, I used Park Tools video for bleeding Magura brakes and I was having the hardest time with the rear. I bled them three times in a row and still didn’t get the air out. I was cussing about wasting an afternoon when I found this video. I recognized the logo as someone I bought brakes from off of Pinkbike. I had a good experience with this guy as a seller and thought I would check out the video. Best decision I made all day. Man this method is extremely simple and fast. It took very little time and was way less messy than the Park Tool method. Park Tool should be watching this guy’s video. I mean seriously don’t waste the time I did trying to do all that when you can obtain way better results with this technique. Thanks man!
Thanks for the kind words. I think I remember you too. You bought the Codes right? Glad this method worked out for you. 😁👍
@@dukeofmtb
Yeah I got the Codes. You were awesome about the problem I had with them and took care of it immediately. I am very thankful for your integrity and intelligent
@@BigfootBikes Just glad I could help. 😊
Man, your bleeding procedure is so simple but yet effective, you’ve made my job so much easier. The plastic screw housing is fragile can’t use metal bleeding screw during bleeding it damaged mine.
Thank you for sharing.
Thanks! This was what I needed to dial-in my new Magura brakes!
Nice 👌 video - great a/v quality, very smooth explanation and no extraneous stories … 👌 keep it up
Thanks for the feedback. That was exactly what I was going for. 😁
i fitted a set of mt7 pro on my main trail bike in december 2020. theyre awesome.. but on my last couple of trail rides i noticed much more lever pull on the rear before hitting the bite point. ive just followed your video and done the quick lever bleed of the rear and its worked perfectly. the bite point is now much earlier in the lever pull and my front and rear now feel the same. thanks for posting this simple and quick method. ive subscribed and look forward to future posts.. keep up the good work buddie, stay safe and keep on riding
Just used your video to bleed air out of my Magura MT THIRTY brakes. Thank you so much!! Worked first try!
👍 I needed to bleed my brakes in a emergency on my eCargo bike and man I'm glad I came across your vid. It made it a breeze! Thanks a mill 🤛
It worked ! fantastic, thank you so much for posting this 👍👍
Love the different style of video, you should do more of the working on bikes style of video in between getting on the trails. Also cool you guys are in mi I always hope to run into you during a ride keep showcasing the modest michigan trails you deserve way more subs.
Thanks. Definitely gonna do more of these. 😁👍
Lol, I left a comment about my experience with Maguras, I guess you already knew what's up!
Love them!
This worked great. I I followed Magura bleed directions and did the process multiple times. I was shocked how much air this procedure removed. Brakes feel perfect now. Thank you!
Worked perfectly! A real time saver. Thank you 🙂
Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you very much 😊
I accidentally spilled some fluid while shortening the brake hose so I had to refill the fluid and get the excessive air out. This did the trick for me! Thank you so much 😁
I was having trouble with my mt7 going soft after a a couple rides thanks to this video no more problems.
Sweet! I'm Magura all the way now that I know about this bleed method. They're just so simple to get 100%. Sure the levers are basically plastic, but it only takes a minute to swap one out if you have a bad enough crash. And they're not as flimsy as people claim. We've crashed hard dozens of times and only broke a lever once. That was a year and a half ago now and we've crashed a couple dozen more times since. I still keep a lever handy in the trunk of the car, just in case. Wouldn't want to cut a trip to the bike park short if something happens to the break lever.
Thank you! I wish I would have seen this video first. This worked great after a lot of headache with other methods.
I feel your pain. I went through all that before too. This is so much easier. That's why I have Magura brakes on all our bikes now. They're so easy to bleed with this method, and they work great. 😁👍
I have MT7's and tried to beed them a bunch of times. Always had a little air in the lines that I just dealt with by pumping the breaks at the top of the mountain. After following your video, I came out with a perfect bleed! You are much appreciated. 👊
I'm just glad I could help. 😊👍
You made this really simple and easy to understand. I’ll give it a try. 👍🏽
Thanks, man!
Your first solution did the trick for spongy feeling, simple. Thanks
You are welcome! 😊
Thank you a millions times!!!! After 2 days of trying to bleed a new set of Magura MT5s without success, this method worked perfectly!!! So glad I saw this video, as I think genuinely it saved my sanity!!! 😂😂🎉🎉
I feel ya man. I went through the same thing when I first got Maguras. Almost thought I made a mistake getting them. Now I love them. 😁👍
Thank you. This is the best method. Works especially well when one person makes a vacuum and the second knocks on the hydraulic line and caliper. This helps the air bubbles rise faster.
Fed up of SRAM's death grip I switched to Magura after initially considering Shimano due to some doubts regarding bleeding, as many folks told me it's very complicated. Anyway, I had to shorten both hoses and bleeding the brakes with this syringe trick worked wonders. Thanks a bunch!
Well done. Many tips we'll received! Thankyou!
Solid video, simple and to the point. Tips at the end are super helpful. I'm coming off of SRAM and going to Magura on my next build so I needed this. Thank you!
Glad I could help. 😁👍
I just did your burp trick to my Maguras and it did the trick! I had bled them a few times and just wasn't getting any more air out, but the lever (rear brake) was still spongy, and I just put on a new lever as the old one was leaking at the back of the master cylinder piston. So when I put the the new MT5 on and bled it I thought I was going to get that firm felt just like my front brake, but no. So I did the burp, I saw bubbles coming up and then tried it out the the lever was firm and high just like the front one. Thanks for the video.
You're welcome! Just happy to save you the frustration I had to go through when I first switched to Maguras. Enjoy your brakes. 😁👍
That seemed to work pretty good for me. I bleed these myself all the time but they never get quite to where i want them. Even the shops I've taken my bike into always do a poor job of bleeding these. Thanks for the tip, so simple and obvious once you know it.
Glad I could help. Don't forget to check the pinned comment for more helpful tips. 😊
Best way to fill 100% brakes, I was striving to get it done with how Magura officially has the videos, this method first time it worked pretty well the brakes are solid once again 😁 Thanks man. Cheers.
I love you!! Thanks for ending nearly a year of frustrating rear brake pull!!!!!!
I know the feeling. Almost regretted my purchase when I first got Magura brakes a few years ago. Now all our bikes are Magura. They're freaking awesome once you know your way around them. Just glad I could save you from further frustration. You should try MT7s with Hc3 levers. They're the best. 😁👍
@@dukeofmtb yeah I've got the mt7 raceline and hc3 levers 😍
Sweet! 😁👍
Awesome tutorial! Liked and subscribed 👍🏼
Thanks for this! This method worked for me but the suction was really strong, to the point where I could barely pull it all the way to the 30ml mark / hole. I tried it a few different times and it was the same each time. Regardless, I got my rear brake lever feeling good. Thanks!
Haha. Yes, I should have mentioned you could start with a little extra fluid or just not push all the air out of the syringe so you don't have to pull such a massive vacuum. Glad you figured it out and that it worked out for you. 😁👍
met you on the trail... Thanks for the suggestion for this video, It works great... You have to do the traditional blead if there is dirty brake fluid
Yup. Nice meeting you today. If it's old and dirty, then yes.
The Best Magura MT maintenance video I've seen, even Magura's official video doesn't show you these tricks.
When my pads are starting to wear I put gaffer tape on the back of each pad, which stops them slipping also. But I'll try your method from now on,. Cheers!
I considered doing that tape thing before too. But yeah, this way is way more convenient. Glad you found this video useful. 😁👍
I want new brakes and I was between TRPs or Magura.
Nice to see the bleed process! So easy
Yup. I don't even bother doing a full flush with a new set of Maguras. I just cut the hoses and do the 'vacuum method.' It takes no time at all. If you go with Maguras, get the hc3 levers if you can. They're sooo much better than stock.
@@dukeofmtb what do you like about the hc3’s? I got a pair of mt7 raceline and thought they came with it, but I was wrong!
@@LoganJohnston190 The lever isn't as thick but it's also much firmer. Feels a ton better than Shimano or Sram or any other Magura lever for that matter. You get more power too. It also has a leverage adjustment. So if you want a firm lever that stops dead at the bite point, you can have that. If you want a softer 'sramy' feel with more modulation, you can have that too. You can also just use it to make your front and rear feel identical. I personally set the rear to the firmest setting and soften up the front slightly to match it. With properly bedded in pads and rotors, it feels like dropping an anchor.
Many thanks!!! Your tip at 4:10 solved the problem I was having - Thanks!
Another way to reduce excess lever throw is to simply pull the rotor back, away from the pad that has the most gap, and give the lever a few pulls. It's quicker than pulling the pads out, and it works just as good.
finally i manage to bleed my old magura race line hs 22 thanks to this metod.
thank you very much.huge ,huge help.
brake lever is firm now.
btw i fill my brake lines with baby oil to give it a try and is working great,i will change it later to magura oil.
Glad I could help. 😁👍
Thank you so much!! Worked perfectly!
Best video out there on these much thanks
Super helpful Ed! Thanks! 👊🏼
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing.
Hell ya this method worked for me. Thanks bro! I did it slightly different. I took the caliper off and removed the pads. Then put 2 plastic tire irons inside the calipers to hold the pistons in place lol. Worked perfect! Pistons stayed and with your method, it pulled all the air outta the system and equalized.
Sweet! 😁👍
Great bleed technique that I hadn't heard of before.
I used a 20ml syringe and even with that smaller volume it was difficult to draw the plunger to the top. A second hole lower down made things easier.
I would just emphasise (from bitter experience) be really careful tightening the bleed screw. I destroyed a Shimano brake lever by over tightening. The plastic thread easily strips and there is no going back. This was during lockdown, and there were no spares available anywhere, for any money. Aargh!
Love this method, thank you! I also tried doing it on Shimano levers using a RockShox Reverb bleed kit with the same result
Good stuff!
👍🏽 Great results on this method.
Thanks for the tips. I'll try out on my MT5's.
Good luck! I think you'll like the results. 👍
great tip for a fast rebleed and get firmer feeling agian; just tried in 2 bikes (MT5 & MT7) and the result was solid. THANKS, i was struggling to get this consistency even with the complete caliper side standard bleed.
I'm so glad this video helped you. Happy riding! 😁👍
Great video. Very informative. Thank you👍
The tip about the brake pads is on point. Spent about 2 hrs riding the stock pads and the front refuses to lock up. Single piston rear brake locks up with ease. Gonna try 2 single pads and see what happens.
Glad you found the video helpful. I've tried going back to the one piece pads just to see if maybe they just need a longer bed in, but they're still definitely not as good as the 4 piece individual pads.
nice simple and awesome video and easy to understand...keep it up 💪
Thanks! 😊
You are my hero! I own a quite a few bikes with the MT5 and 7s and I'm so happy how simple your directions are plus I've had 100% consistently dialed in results. Thanks so much for this video!
I'm glad I could help!
Did you do it this way exactly with no syringe on the caliper end? I'm keen to try it.
@@david-cherry Exactly as seen on this vid. The only thing I did with the calipers was push the pistons back.
@@david-cherry Yes. Right after a hose trim on a prefilled set of Maguras, you just have to do this on the lever end. It's similar to the funnel bleed that people do on Shimano brakes. It's the easiest and most reliable method. If you start bleeding from the bottom, you're more like to introduce air than to remove it. So you always have to finish off with what's shown on this video anyway.
@@dukeofmtb thank you!! Do you still use this method for future bleeds (not just after the initial hose trim)? Essentially never bleeding from caliper (ever)
Well done video. Thanks.
SO TODAY I FITTED MY NEW MAGURA MT7 BRAKES... now ive already been watching videos etc in preparation and id already seen your video, its a good job i did, i went to town on bleeding them going backwards and forwards with the mineral oil the magura way so that when i come to do your technique its virtually done, how wrong was i, i still had to do your technique multiple times bubbles come out like i hadnt just bled them, but now absolutely solid, hopefully it holds up when i ride tomorrow!! thank you so much youve save a life today haha
I feel you man. I went through the same thing at first. Almost regretted my purchase. So glad I saw a random video of a German dude doing it this way. I just saw it in passing. I didn't understand a word he said. I just went ahead and tried it. Eureka! Brakes were perfect. I just had to share what I discovered with the English speaking world. And here we are. I'm glad you found this video. Enjoy the brakes, man. 👍
Bro! Thank you! Excellent video.
Tip top advice! Thank you! 🙏
This is AMAZING!!! I have always struggled with Magura brakes, never getting a proper bleed. I just changed the rear brake hose, filled and bleed like normal...squishy! Did this trick once and the brakes feel awesome!!! Thank you soooooo much!!!! I owe you one.
I'm just glad this video is helping folks get the full potential out of their Magura brakes. Enjoy! 😊
After many messy bleeds I still had a spongy front brake, pure chance I seen your vid and wow, just finished this process and I have a perfect brake 👍. You should work for Magura because this is way better than their vids. Thanks man! 👍👍
I'm glad it worked out for you. I'm just here trying to spread the word. Magura brakes are excellent. There's just not a lot of info on them out there. Most negative reviews I've read about them come from the idea that they're hard to get a good bleed on. Would be sweet if Magura noticed my efforts though. 😅
@@dukeofmtb yeah they should at least acknowledge your efforts 👍
I really like my Magura set, no one else can touch the quality for the price..
I still have the pads on that came with set, on your advice I'll be upgrading these too. 👌
Thanks again man.
cheers champ, just tried it on my mt7, awesome, works great
Awesome! Now if only they made the lever end completely out of aluminum, they'd be the perfect brakes.
You my friend are a legend.. Thankyou!!
Excellent video. Thanks very much.
Thanks for the tips! You should try Galfer pro pads with galfer rotors, makes the brakes feel so good!
Might try that some time. Currently experimenting with MTX Pads.
Thanks for this, vacuum trick worked. Didnt bother with the pad trick as mine are so close to the rotor. I did over-adjust the lever with the litte black plastic screw thing and now have a set of MT7s that feel like a Well bled Shimano XT, only without the woody lever feeling.
Glad it worked for you. I only do the pad trick when the pads start getting worn and the pistons are a little sticky. Don't usually have to do it with new pads. Great quick fix that lasts a while. And yeah, the mt7s are great. You should try them with hc3 levers. They're on another lever. Amazing lever feel. Everything else starts feeling like crap after trying hc3 levers, even the hc levers(that's why the hc levers are on our hardtails, while the hc3 levers go on the "big bikes.") Seriously, try them. The leverage adjustment on those things alone are worth it.
That's actually a very nice trick with the pads, thank you!
I actually have an updated version of that pad trick. Whenever I feel like I have too much lever throw, I just simply pull back the rotor away from the pad that has the biggest gap from the rotor with my hand and give the lever a few pulls. Way quicker. 😁👍
@@dukeofmtb I did that with my rear Shimano MT520 caliper and it kinda worked but now it's leaking so I'm going to replace it with a Magura caliper (I'm running Shimano XT M8000 levers). Just wondering if MT5 again or MT4 but I like new stuff so I'm probably gonna try the two pot.
@@GalinPanchev MT4 if you want 2 pot, but MT7 if you 4 pot. MT5 with Shimano levers have a ton of lever throw. Felt too spongy for my liking. The MT4 or 7 calipers will give a firmer feel with shorter throw.
@@dukeofmtb So there is actually a difference between MT5 and MT7?
@@GalinPanchev Yes. MT7 calipers have less piston rollback than the MT5 calipers and require less fluid before the pads contact the rotors, resulting in shorter lever throw.
I originally thought it was marketing BS, but when I tried pairing MT5 levers with MT7 calipers, I could lock up the brakes just by sneezing on the levers(lol). Alternately, MT7 levers paired with MT5 calipers result in a lot of excess lever throw.
The MT5 levers push more fluid to compensate for the increase piston rollback on the MT5 calipers. I've taken the levers apart too, and I saw that the reservoirs are different sizes between the MT7 and MT5 levers.
So if you are doing a Shimano/Magura combo, you'll get the best results with MT7 calipers if you want 4 pots, and MT4 calipers if you want 2 pot brakes.
Thanks for this video 🙌
Perfect video! Thank you!
Glad I could help.
I was worried because my Maguras were a different model but this worked great for me. The Magura bleed kit instructions were difficult to follow and didn't produce the same results of this video.
Gonna have to try this. Installed Magura MT7s last week. Front bled perfectly and is immensely strong. Rear lever still comes back to the bar after 4 bleeds and zero air bubbles now coming out.
Best of luck. 👍
WOW, what a time saver, thank you!!!!!
🙏
Just glad I could help.
Thanks. Will use.
Production quality impressive great content.,
Great explanation 👍
Tips that this didn't cover:
Don't press out all the air in the syringe, as doing this means that you need to put greater suction on the system before you finally reach the equalizing hole. Greater suction force=more stress on the system. I usually leave about 5ml of air along with the fluid.
When you place the syringe in the master cylinder and put suction on it (AKA pulling the syringe up), do this several times and not just once. Also, rotate the master up and down while holding suction, because you will sometimes have a trapped bubble. If you do this with the stopper pads in place (the yellow spacers that come with the kit), you can actually flick the brake lever a few times, which sometimes will put pressure on the entire system and cause that trapped air to come up.
Good bonus tips. I tried to keep the vid simple and just stuck to the basic idea. Folks figure out the lever flicking thing, tilting the master, and pushing and pulling on the plunger repeatedly pretty quickly on their own. Everyone gets pretty creative on the more stubborn bleeds. 😁👍
What do you mean by rotating the master? I've typically bled it with 2 syringes and the push/pull method. It's not the best and takes a few bleeds to get it so definitely keen to try this.
@@david-cherry The "master" refers to the lever side. Sometimes I like to pull a vacuum on one side, then I flip it over and do it again on the other. Or move the lever body(aka master cylinder) up and down and tap it to unstuck any bubbles that might be stuck in a corner somewhere. Mostly, pulling the vacuum does the trick. Everything else is just extra for the more stubborn brakes.
@@dukeofmtb ah got it. So I stupidly stripped one of the bleedport screws way back. It's in there and sealed but I can't get it out. Would you just leave it as is and flip the master to use the other port? Removing it may just be too finicky?
@@david-cherry That's a good idea. Although, you could get it out by heating up a small flat screwdriver and melting a little into the old bleed screw to get it out. Of course order a new screw first. It's up to you if it's worth the risk though. Also, if you ever brake a master, keep the screws and bolts as future backups. 😁👍
Well just completed the front end Magura brake and I must say this method works perfect. But you definitely need the single pad not the combo that comes with the cheaper model Magura. Thank so much for taking the time to figure this out. Why Miagura has not posted this on their website I have no idea
Glad this helped you. Although, it _is_ possible to do the piston trick with the single piece pad. Just put a small flat screwdriver behind the part of the pad that sticks up near the piston that's lagging behind, and push the pad firmly against the rotor. Then give the lever a few pulls. That should give the piston enough room to move further out. You can also do this with the individual pads without needing to remove the retaining bolt and pads. Just push against the tab of the pad that the bolt goes through. It's a little quicker than the method I showed in this vid but I only figured that out recently. You can even do it with a multitool on the side of a trail, not that you would have to. It's only something that comes up when the pads are really worn/thin and you have a stubborn piston or two. Anyway, enjoy your brakes. Once you know these two tricks(the vacuum bleed and pad trick), there's not much else to them other than making sure you bed your pads and rotors in right and avoid oil contamination. Now if they could just make the whole lever end out of aluminum, they'd be the perfect brakes. 😁👍
Best method ever. Thanks man 🤩
Happy to help
Very good. Thank you.
That’s brilliant!! 👊🏼
What an amazingly done tutorial,very professional and clear!!! I just tried this method and had bubbles nonstop, I wonder if the syringe tip had a good enough sealing against the bleeding port..
Glad you liked it. Anyway, I've had that happen before. I have an MT5 brake that does that, but it still works fine. Try not to pull too hard on a set that does that. You might have a faulty brake set and you might be overwhelming the seals and air might be coming through one of them. You can also just try emailing Magura to warranty your brakes. Tell them your set has a faulty seal. I've had good luck with their customer service, specifically with kent.king@magurausa.com. Check that the banjo bolt and bleed port on your caliper are properly torqued first, that might also be the culprit. Best of luck. 👍
@@dukeofmtb alright thank you very much!
Wacthing you guy's videos for a year now , just learning your name isn't Duke.lol
Lol. Duke is just something I've always used online. It's been my 'gamer tag' in one form or another for about fifteen years or so now. 😅
Thanks man, you saved me big time!
Invaluable vid. I used less fluid, hole further down on syringe and worked perfectly on my turd mt-2's. Combined w oem 'performance' tier pads not too shabby for 10 year old cannondale bad boy ultra 1 for cardio at local park.
Sweet! 😁👍
Nice info man
Great tips!
Thanks!
Your Methods worked out great! Just as good (maybe better?!) as doing the "proper" Magura procedure.
Glad to know it worked out for you. 😁👍
Ed your seem like a great guy and thanks for sharing but after 10 tries my rear brake still felt mushy. So knowing how easy it is to bleed the whole system from rear caliper up I went for that option. Didn't even remove the rear caliper but did remove the pads for cautionary reasons. So easy to do and now finally the rear brake lever feels firm just like the front. So if some people don't get the results from your tip like I didn't don't hesitate doing the whole bleed. FYI my bike is new and the rear felt mushy so i handle it instead of returning it to the dealer. Thanks Tim USMC 73-77
No worries. My suspicion is your brake was too low on fluid to begin with, so doing a full flush from scratch is a good idea if the brake still didn't feel right after 10 tries. It never takes more than 2 tries with the method in the video. Glad you worked it out. 👍
Hey, I tried this method and it really works
Great tutorial and easy thanks a lot. I hope to meet you and Cory
when you come by Blue Mountain soon 🤪
Glad I could help. PA or Ontario?
Ontario :)
@@jongaquarius It's too bad they shut down the trails in 2020. 😥 Any rumors of them possibly opening back up at some point?
Super simple, merci !
Thank you for sharing
Nice video Duke
Thanks, Todd!
Wow, my dead MT7 works better than new now. Thank you.
Sweet! Zombie brakes! 🧟♂️
Not only that it works better, but also way more simple. Wow That’s a rare. So glad I came across your video. Thank you so much.
One thing I missed was pulling the caliper back. It says it prevents overfilling. Can you share what will happen if it gets over filled? You suggest I redo it and push the caliper back this time? Thanks
Glad I could help. Anyway, if you push the pistons back on an overfilled set to swap out to new pads, you could burst the bladder or bust a seal. Basically, you could potentially damage your brakes. So yeah, I'd recommend redoing it without skipping that step. Although you don't have to pull such a hard vacuum now that your brakes are good. A light pull will do. Either fill the syringe further up, or don't push the plunger too far in before sticking it in the lever end. Best of luck.
This is great bro:)
Thanks!
simple - effective and you only need siringe. big like :)
Love you're bike man
Thanks!
Hi. Thanks for this video. It is indeed the best way for perfect bleed of Magura. However I would like to add something based on my experience. I would recommend to add around 20ml of Royal Blood to the syringe instead of 10ml. When you usenonly 10ml and leave so much space between the oil and hole at 30ml point, then when you pull the syringe while attached to the lever the vacuum pressure is bit too big. I have done it with only 10ml of oil and sucked up the oring from lever master cylinder piston. It was sucked up into the lever. The result was that I had soft lever all the time as the air was entering the system through master piston. It took me 3 days od struggling with bleeding the system before I found out what was the reason 😅 so in case your lever is still soft after quick bleed, check out the oring at master piston on the lever. And btw you can remove the piston without disassembling the lever 😉
Oh my best way by far amazing thanks soooo much
Glad I could help. 😊
Thanks for the explanation, it makes magura brakes much easier to service. However, the plastic screws are annoying and all other manufacturers have metal.
Glad I could help. Maguras would be perfect if the lever body was aluminum, but since their not, it's best that the bleed screw is plastic. I'd rather strip the screw threads than the bleed port threads. It's cheaper to replace. I actually have spare screws, but I've never needed them.
On my Magura ebike brakes...to center the 4 brake pads/caliper on the rotor, I loosen the 2 caliper mounting screws, apply pressure to the brake lever and hold down tight, then with my other hand I tighten the caliper mounting screws down. Let off the brake lever and your brake caliper will be centered everytime.
That works good too, unless you have a sticky piston or pads that are unevenly worn. 👍
nice one thanks