xTool D1 Pro Grid Files | Use Absolute Coordinates | Lightburn | xTool Creative Space
Vložit
- čas přidán 10. 07. 2024
- This is a short video where I got over how to utilize the limit switches on the xTool D1 Pro to allow for using the machine with absolute coordinates. This way you can set up a grid to use for registration of you work pieces.
Grid Files:
www.etsy.com/listing/1277584267
***NEW EXTENSION VERSION***:
www.etsy.com/listing/1281256993
UPDATE:
You need to switch the positioning mode from the crosshairs to the laser spot. This is both for burning the grid in Lightburn or Creative Space. You can only do this in Creative Space
so even if you are using Lightburn you need to do this in xTool Creative Space first. It will write these settings to the motherboard so you can use it in Lightburn as well.
In xTool Creative Space...
Click on the gear icon next laser image in the top right corner.
Click on the Working Parameters button.
Change the positioning mode from Crosshairs to Laser Spot.
If need be uncheck the Limit Switches button as well if you are still triggering it.
10% Off Promo Code: BB3DxTool
Valid: 8/15 - 8/31/22
It's good for D1 Pro & Bundles & Accessories
Affiliate links:
xTool D1 Pro 20W Laser Engraver:
www.xtool.com/collections/mac...
RA2 Pro:
www.xtool.com/collections/acc...
Air Assist Pump:
www.xtool.com/collections/acc... - Věda a technologie
Keep up the great work. I'm new to Xtool and currently using the xTool Creative Space. and the Grid file is going to be a game changer in all future projects. Can't wait to learn more from you.
Thank you!
Hello. We purchased your holders and files to make this grid. After a bit of struggle and reading the comments I was able to figure out how to get the grid printed. I was curious if you could do a video actually showing how to utilize the grid with lightburn and how to set up projects?
Bought the files, watched the vid... Came out perfect and super easy instructions to understand. Thanks!!
Glad it worked out for you. Good luck!
Yeay, great work. Thank you for this nice Video and your Work!
Thank you!
I don't know who you are buster. Or where you are. But, buster, you are the bomb. Intelligent explanation with a small reason for settings included in your walkthrough. Well done.
Hit the sub button already.
Ryan. West Coast. Thank you. Welcome to the channel!
Got the file today and it worked well! I'm usually doing 1 item at a time so far and have always used "current position" for my projects. Absolute coordinates will take me some time to get used to, but should work good for multiple parts and RA2 projects. Thanks Ryan.
Sorry I missed this. Hope it all ended up working out for you!
This is a really great video, thank you so much for sharing🙂!!
many thanks for the good video. I will download your file. and thank you very much for the tip with the dot at the starting point at creative space! ingeniously simple, simply ingenious
Thank you. Glad you liked it!
Purchased your files. Was dead easy to set up and utilitise. Thanks mate. Has made it dead easy to line up my knives and lay my makers mark on them
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the support!
Hi Ryan. I purchased your file for the spoil board and feet from your Etsy store for the Xtool D1 Pro. I have to say, so far your plans once implemented have a game changer. To be honest, I have only burned the spoil board and feet but I’ve played around a little and it is super easy and less frustrating.
Glad you liked it and happy that it helped you!
Thank you sir… this video has helped me a lot getting started
You are my hero
I just ordered the extended version by mistake. I bought both lol. perfect for when I upgrade.
Hi. I just sent you a message on Etsy with a link to the original one.
Thanks for your video and clear explanations! I just received the 10W yesterday, but it looks to be housed in the 20W box you showed instead. I'm hoping to get past the learning curve for the system and apps soon! It's a bit more confusing than I thought it'd be. As a designer who works daily on the CC suite, I thought I could just plug and play, but there's lots to learn. Appreciate you sharing your wisdom. Hoping to cut the feet this afternoon and engrave the grid.
No worries. Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for the video. I purchased the 10W recently and have been wanting to make a grid board like this. I also knew that it would have to be associative to the location of the tool but couldn't figure out how to make that work. Your suggestion is perfect with the feet locators. I bought the pattern file from Etsy. Here's my newbie question: Using the creative space, what settings should I use to cut the feet through the plywood? Thanks again for your help.
It really depends on the plywood and the thickness and which laser power module you have. I would suggest more passes at higher speeds to prevent too much charring. Something like 6mm/sec and 3 passes but again it can vary wildly based on the other parameters I mentioned.
Thank you
One more question, i will be doing most of the cutting,so how can I prevent the grid . I mean any other solution?
Good evening, thank you for the very informative detailed video. I was wondering if the grid would work just as well with the 5W D1Pro? Thanks in. advance for your response.
There are a few versions of the gird in there. One works with the 5-10W versions as well
Hey
Thanks for the great explanation, I have questions regarding frame button
I have an image (svg) which is a semi circle, but when I click the frame shows as rectangular not semi circle
Think of the frame more like a picture frame and not an outline. It shows the extent of the work and not a tracing of the outside of the art.
I downloaded the Etsy file twice (paid for both times) How do I get the Creative Space to open/download to Creative Space? I am currently having trouble with my D1 reading Light Burn. dot xcs file only shows the image. It does not allow me to open cut, speed etc.
G’day. Great clear video, and a great idea for a newbie. I have a 20W Sculpfun with a 400 x 410 bed. Can I simply scale down the design to achieve the same results?
Hello. I wouldn't scale as the measurements would be wrong. You could however probably use the Ortur Laser master 3 version which is 400x400. Only difference may be where the home position is. The LM3 is in the front left corner. Not sure about the Sculptfun. www.etsy.com/listing/1290139327
@@BusterBeagle3D thanks mate. That should work then - home is front left. I’ll burn it and let you know in case others have the same dilemma.
Thanks Ryan, can you explain why we need to change the crosshairs to the laser spot - what is the benefits, etc.
First thing is that you lose 16mm of workable space with your laser because the module has to move over by that amount to show you where the laser should be starting from. The second is really the accuracy. There is no better indication of where the laser actually is then the beam itself. There are ways to adjust the offset of the laser in both XSC and Lightburn which just goes to show you how there can be discrepancies with the amount of offset the crosshairs actually is. It’s a neat idea but just leaves too much room for error when actually using it.
@@BusterBeagle3D thanks, that makes total sense.
I recently bought an xtools d1 and when I'm in process part of creative space there is no centering button
i have a question how do you get the software to delete a file if accidently hit process
Thank you! I downloaded the files. Question, when turning off the crosshairs how do you get the laser to turn on when framing?
Thanks again
Hello. If you are using Creative space you can turn in on in the Process window. If you are using Lightburn you enable it under EDIT> DeviceSettings and turn on Enable laser fire button and Laser on while Framing. Be sure to adjust the "Fire" button percentage under the MOVE tab to something not too high that it burns while framing.
Can I change my home position setting from 0,0 to 1,1 and if so how? Thank you
I love the concept and I use the same system on my cnc from X-Carve.
But I have here the S1 Pro 20W, I do the frame and it moves all around without any issues. But when I press start to burn your program, I ring the alarm before even moving off the home position. Anything I missed ?
I’m sorry I missed this. I’m sure you have figured it out by now but be sure to read the Read me First text file in the zip folder. It should help you with your issue.
I downloaded your files for the waste board but the two files I’m seeing for the 10wpro both look like the are in mm and can’t seam to find the one for inches? I’m sure I’m doing something wrong so could you point me in the right direction. Thank you
You are not seeing anything wrong. Many people including myself use mm when using a laser cutters or engravers as it's a much easier to understand for many. Even though I am in the US I use mm for all 3D modeling, laser engraving, and 3D printing.
Hello. I purchased your grid pattern and for some reason it keeps triggering the limit sensor alarm on the Y axis at the bottom right. Any chance you’d know how to fix this ?
Be sure to read the Read Me First document in the folder. It has additional instructions including turning that alarm off.
thank you for this info, You are a godsend.
You are welcome. Glad you found it useful!
Greeting Mr Beagle. Incredible videos! Thank you. Question, I have a xtool d1 10w non pro. When I hit the home button it hits the back left frame and makes a terrible noise. Any thoughts on what I’m doing wrong?? Thank you again! You have a new sub.
Hello. Unfortunately there are no limit switches on the non-pro D1 machines. If you want to home the machine you will have to find a manual way to do it. I suggest this tool. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5274995
Thanks for watching!
Absolute coordinates is greyed out when selecting the extended laser instead of laser flat. I am wondering if I could use "Laser Flat" when my machine is actually setup as an extended machine... until such time as Creative Space adds absolute coordinate functionality for the extended version. I am aware that the Laser Flat will only "see" half the bed size, but for smaller projects I could live with that. Or, will LightBurn solve this issue for me - I have LightBurn but have not set it up yet.
Yes. Lightburn can choose absolute coordinates by default so you can use that if you like. You can still use absolute coordinates with the extension in XSC but from what you are telling me you will need to do it the old school way I show in the video by using the little square in the top left corner. It’s the way all XSC files worked before they added the absolute coordinates checkbox.
So...I have the D1 Pro and made all the changes in settings as per the Read Me First file. However....I ran the first burn and all seemed to go well. I decided to run it again to darken it a bit and it burned the next pass approximately 3 mm to the right. I ran it again and it was off once again. Any ideas as to what's happening?
After cutting a new board and starting the process over again....(leaving all settings the same) it has now decided to mark 3 mm's towards the bottom.
This sounds like something mechanical is happening as long as you are using absolute coordinates and homing each time. I would also check and make sure the wire loom on the back of the gantry is not getting in the way when you are homing the laser. It's somewhat in a bad spot and might be pushing back on the laser after it homes as this wire sometimes bounces off of the back of the frame.
hello, when I'm opening the file D1Pro_20W_RA2ProExtended.lbrn2 its opening rectangle not square, what I'm doing wrong?
Check your Etsy messages. You purchased the extension rail version. I sent you the original version you need.
So I have the d1 pro without the emergency stop button aka the 1.0. Will the grid base still work with mine?
Yes. It was made for that version.
Going to order today! Question I have though, do you not use a honeycomb? Also, how do you prevent damage to the grid/board? Or is this meant to be used only a few times before burning a new one? Finally, does the Etsy file have the settings built in?
I do use a honeycomb when cutting so I don't use the grid at those times. There are settings that come with the girds but they may need to be tweaked based on your laser / wood/ environment etc but they should be close. It is called a "Spoil board" for a reason so it can get messed up but as long as you can still read it you should be fine before you have to burn a new one.
I just bought the file off Esty to burn into a spoil board. I picked the right file for the D1 Pro 20W with the R2a Rotary and the extension kit. Every time I frame it, it frames fine (ran the framing 4 times). When I run it to burn after framing multiple times it will hit a hard limit when it gets to the first line on the X axis, it starts in the center and then runs to the side where it gets the alarm to go off and stops burning. how do I fix this?
Please read the Read Me First file in the zip folder. It goes over setup instructions to burn the grid successfully.
HI, I bought the Pattern and feet. Got it all set up I have the D1 Pro 20w with the RA2 Pro. I frame it no issues. As soon as I go to start the engraving it hits a limit switch and stops. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Got you on Etsy but for everyone else be sure to read the "Read Me First" file in the folder that goes over turning those switches off to burn the grid.
Can I use the 20w grid for a 10w? When framing the 10w grid it triggers the limit switch in the lower front left?
Be sure to read the “Read me First” document in the folder. It goes over instructions including disabling those alarms.
my file says some parts is outside of the range on the 20W
Just make sure you are opening the file and not importing it if you are using Lightburn. Unless the workable area has changed the 20W file should work.
Thanks Ryan for your grid plans and explanation of absolute coordinates. I have the XTool D1 Pro 20 W. The laser offset is disabled. I burned the grid for my machine and note when I set the coordinates X210mm and Y200mm and fire the laser it lines up exactly on X210mm but the Y lines up on Y201mm. I also noted that the vertical grid lines in the lower right quadrant burned 1mm lower than the Y200 line. In lightburn the vertical grid lines all align with Y200mm. Any suggestions. thanks
Only thing I can think of is that the wire loom on the gantry might have pinched between the gantry and the back of the frame at some point during the burn. If it hit and was 1mm off it might be impossible to have noticed but that's why everything is now 1mm lower after that hit. 99% of the issues that I have seen with the grid has to do with that wire loom not being in a great spot. They really should have gone with a drag chain for that wire or changed their homing position to the front left instead of the rear.
@@BusterBeagle3D Quite possibly.. Thanks
Hey, bought the files for the D1 20w. I Made the feet perfectly, if not a little scorched :), however I can't seem to frame the grid correctly. Any ideas?
Hello. First be sure that you read the read me first document in the folder. It goes over additional information on how to properly burn the grid. Also if you have one of the newer 2.0 versions of the machine (the one with the emergency stop button) and you are using XTool creative space then you need to use the file in the 2.0 folder in the XCS folder. XTool changed the workable area of the 2.0 machine for some odd reason to be smaller so I had to make a specific grid just for that one.
GREAT VIDEOS...I soooo new to all this my head is spinning...I have a d1 pro 5w and still learning...any idea where I can see a step by step on how to do speed test and power tests for a 5w for NWT ...slates and to laser photos on slate & wood...sooooo confusing..
Clean the tile with acetone, spray paint the tile with spray paint that uses Titanium dioxide. I use Rustoleum 2X ivory I believe. Then run a power speed test and look at the results. You can even run power speed tests with images. Check out my latest video on XCS for the S1 at around the 27 minute mark. It’s a different machine but the that part of the software is the same no matter which machine you use. xTool Creative Space Tutorial | S1 Edition
czcams.com/video/fLAqB9hUeH8/video.html
your amazing soo grateful...@@BusterBeagle3D
I bought this Grid File for my Xtool D1 Pro 10 watt. I love the idea. Problem is probably my xtool D1 Pro 10 watt. The first run was very light with the settings that are in the program. I then put the laser back inhome position and then ran this grid 3 times to get darker lines. You guessed it. I have 4 lines, Horizontally and Vertically . The circles are all close at the top of the circles, but further apart on the lower part of the circles. How can I make sure my machine is setup properly. I have installed the feet and they are solid. Any help would be appreciated. I am a newbie
Make sure your belts are nice and tight and that if you are using Lightburn you are using absolute coordinates. If you your home is working correctly and there is no play in the belts the laser should be starting in the exact same spot each time.
I’m new. Still waiting on the arrival of mine. I ordered the honeycomb trays and extended frame. First, how do we keep from burning the grid up when doing projects and is there a grid for the extension frame??
The grid is better for alignment for engraving then it is for cutting. I use my honeycomb on the grid when I cut but there is also a metal sheet under it.
Hi. I purchased the grid from you and got it on the board. Maybe I missed it, but when I'm done engraving the grid do I now leave it on absolute coordinates or move it back to relative coordinates?
This grid is all absolute coordinates. You simply need to keep it on that and home the laser incase you ever either move the laser by hand or turn the machine off. Once you home the laser it will be at 0,0 of the absolute coordinates and know exactly where it's absolute coordinates are.
Hey awesome video. Just wondering if this grid will work for the xtool d1 non pro version? Or will the grid you made a video about for laserbox work in creative space?
Yes it will work for the original D1 as well. The old grid will not work in creative space. Only thing is you don’t have limit switches so you need a manual way to find the home position. I recommend this tool. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5274995
@@BusterBeagle3D alright sweet. I appreciate the help.
When using the RA Pro Rotary attachment how do you use absolute coordinates if you have to unplug the Y-stepper motor?
If you are using the grid you just make sure you manually move the laser to the middle line of the grid or move it there first before you unplug the motor and use the rotary. That way when you line the RA2 Pro to the lines on the gird you will know that the laser module is in the very center of whatever roller configuration you are using.
How do you get this to fit after a software update?? I’ve been trying and trying but should have to increase/decrease the grid to fit the workspace
You should not change the size of the grid in the software or it will not work. Be sure to open the 2.0 version of the file if you are using creative space. It's in the Creative Space folder.
What the power and mm and passes setting for xtool sofeware you use. Bought your thing just don’t no what to put it at
The settings may vary based on your own laser power but if you OPEN the files instead of importing in Lightburn the settings should come in already. If you are using XCS then choose the basswood setting.
just an FYI. I purchased a D1 Pro Red last December. It was a 10W model, but it appears to have the "larger" laser frame with the white outlet like used on the 20W model. I burned the grid using the Creative Space 5-10w NoRotary file and it errored out halfway through (hit max Y limit switch) even though it passed framing no problem. I had to redo with 20w grid.
Be sure to read the Read Me First file in the zip folder. It has additional information needed to burn the grid properly including turning those limit switches off.
I just got my XTOOL D1Pro 20watt and my question is, do I buy and download light burn on my laptop before I hook up the laser?
If you don't have the laser in person yet you may want to wait until you have it so that you can use the trial version for 30 days with the laser hooked up. It really depends on your needs if you will even need Lightburn or be ok with the Xtool Creative Space hardware. I am a fan of Lightburn and if you check out my channel I have a whole video of how to use it but since you still can only update the firmware and other things from Creative space I would recommend hooking that up first before moving over to Lightburn.
Hey Ryan, I purchased your grid on Etsy. I ran the program and it only burned the grid on the left upper, the circles, and all the numbers on the program. What could be the problem?
Just make sure that you are reading the "Read Me First" text file in the grid folder. It has extra info in there for burning the grid. Also if you are using Lightburn make sure you are opening the file and not importing it. Importing could cause weird issues to arise.
I will be getting a 20w 2-in-1! What type of board do you recommend that won't burn with honeycomb on using blue/red?
Most honeycombs come with a bottom metal sheet prevents the laser from reaching any spoilboard. The gird is more intended for lining up engravings rather then for cutting. It can help to keep your honeycomb square to the laser but that's really about it.
Just purchased the files and loaded the D1Pro_20W_Ra2ProExtended into Lightburn. I have the extension kit installed on my D1Pro 20W. My laser is set to spot (not crosshairs). I home the laser, and do the framing. I would suspect that the laser would frame the whole board but it seems to only frame half as if no extension is installed. I have the Extension turned on in Creative Space. I'm using the latest releases of both Creative Space and Lightburn. Am I missing something? I don't want to "Start" if some step is missing which is causing it to not frame the whole board like the file shows for the extension size grid.
Click on Edit > Device Settings and check your workable area. It should be Y934 X432mm for the extension.
@@BusterBeagle3D That was it! Thank you so much.
Hello, i have the grid downloaded and burned into my spoilboard, its great, thank you! One thing i'm not entirely clear on is when you say an image should be “Offset by the proper amount” for the laser to know where it is - what exactly do you mean? i tried a few things but the laser head mostly freaked out at the home position as it it was trying to access and area outside of the working area! Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated! :)
Hello. It just means that once you home the laser if you intend to burn an image at the 200X 200Y coordinate you should be able to know exactly where that is after burning the grid. If you know that the top left corner of your image is at that 200,200 position you just place your wood accordingly on that spot and your image should burn right where you intended it to.
Hello sir, getting ready to purchase your grid. One question that I have (Maybe a dumb question) Is how you use the honeycomb with the grid (in the event you want to cut something and do not want to hurt the grid).
Many honeycombs come with a metal sheet to place below them so that you are not burning below the honeycomb. I'm not sure which one you have but every one I have purchased has come with the extra sheet. No damage happens to the grid then.
I added a Bed extension how do I change the parameters for the new size? I have changed in Lightburn.
Not sure what you mean exactly, are you trying to adjust the regular grid to work with the extension or just general parameters setup?
I am going to purchase this grid pattern but have one question about its use. It will be fine for engraving coasters and other items that can be positioned on the board, but what about cutting. If i use the grid to position my board and then make a cutout it will ruin the waste board grid.
Correct. When cutting I like you use a honeycomb board to protect my spoil board and get better results. I still use the grid to try to keep the honeycomb square but still have to rely on the laser outline in this case to be able to register the position. When cutting I rarely use absolute coordinates, it's more a case for Start from current position for me.
Hi.
I purchased the 3D feet, and was supposed to get the grid patterns along with the purchase....I don't have them, and I cannot find where to download them.
Can you help me? Thanks
Hi Harold, reach out to me on the messages tab on Etsy and I'll get you squared away. I can't find an order under this name but perhaps the Etsy name was different.
Is there an update for the XCS version? It has absolute coordinates now but I don't know how to use them.
Essentially the file works the same except you no longer have to trick XCS into thinking there is a box in the top left corner to use absolute coordinates. It’s just a check box. If you check out my channel I recently released a new updated video on XCS for the D1 that you can check out. I go over it in that video.
If I burn the grid in creative space will it work with light burn? - will the home button go to the grid upper right hand coordinate or do I need to do something else to zero the home in light burn?
The home position in both should be the same, top left. This grids are also identical in both programs so they should work the same with the same coordinates and positions.
Your Grid is great for engraving; however, how do you keep from destroying spoilboards during laser cutting? It would seem I would have to replace the spoil boards (I know, that's what they are for) and reprint the grids rather frequently if I do a lot of laser cutting of materials. I guess I could use the Honeycomb for cutting and the spoil board for engraving - or is there a better way I am not thinking of?
I always use a honeycomb when cutting with a metal sheet under it. I don't use the grid while cutting, only engraving. You want a honeycomb not to only protect your spoilboard but also to add air under your part for a more a efficient cut without a lot of charring under your part.
@@BusterBeagle3D Ah, okay. Thanks for the reply!
I bought the file from Etsy. Thank you for sharing. Which file for the grid would I use? I have a D!pro 20w with the rotary tool. I have3 no way of knowing if the new rotary tool I have is shorter or longer than the other. Mine is kg02005400 ( the only partnumber I could find on the box. it is 9-1/2" long
If it was the older rotary the rollers are marked in their size on the top of the machine for the different roller sizes. If it’s the RA2 Pro they are marked A, B, C. Plus the RA2 Pro comes with a Chuck and the older version does not.
Where can I find the file for the feet?
Please help cant find related post, Bought files last night, turned to laser spot and clicked off limit switch but there is still about 15mm hanging off bottom of artboard once I connect my device. D1 pro 2.0 with ra2 attachment. Tried both xcs, and lightburn
It sounds like they may have changed the workable area of the 2.0 for some odd reason. I would suggest picking the 40W version since it’s shorter and the rest of the grid would still be the same.
@@BusterBeagle3D thank you! I opened the 40w file and ran the frame feature looks like it'll work. Tried opening a couple different versions but not the 40, can't thank you enough for the fast response and expertise
My laser is having an issue in lightburn and creative space anytime I try to home/center the laser. It goes to the top left corner but will not stop trying to push further, and is making a pretty loud sound because the belts wont stop. Do you have any idea why this is happening or how I can fix it?
If you have the pro version of the machine with limit switches you need to either check and see if the limit sensors are plugged in a and in good condition and second that there is not a part of the wire loom that is getting in the way and preventing the laser module from reaching back far enough to trigger the sensor. 9 out of 10 times it's a wire loom that is getting caught between the frame and the laser module.
If you don't have a Pro version of the D1 then there are not limit switches and you should refrain from pressing that button. Instead you can find a manual way to home your machine by using a tool such as this: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5274995
Hi! We have a D1 Pro here, bought recently. I understand XCS now has an absolute setting. What does that option change for your explanation? Thanks!
The only difference is that if using XSC you no longer have to use my AbsouteCoordinate file to trick XCS into thinking there is a little box at the (0,0) position. You should be able to simply place your art, set the machine to use the absolute coordinate checkbox and the use the laser.
@@BusterBeagle3D Excellent, thanks!
Is there anywhere to get help with this. I ended up running the grid in creative space. When I tried it in lightburn, I did everything as you stated in the video. It would frame perfectly, framed it several times just to make sure. As soon as I hit start the limit switch would trip and the machine would stop and alarm. I am at a loss because it frames perfectly I've tried it several times and all end the same. Frames without a problem, as soon as I hit the start it alarms and stops. I made the file in creative space but being new to this I don't know if the measurements will all come out the same to use that grid for lightburn now that it's engraved into the wood.
Hello. Be sure to read the "Read Me First" document in the folder. It has extra instructions in there how to properly burn the grid including disabling those limit switches.
do you have a file to make the foot brackets? This is epic but I need to cut the 5 mil ply to make them. Having a hard time making it in Xtools software.
The files for the foot brackets are in the download from Etsy.
I have an xtool pro 10 watt/RA2 PRO
When I do this it says the element is placed out of the processing area
What do I do?
Make sure nothing accidentally shifted or that your workable area is correct. If you are using Lightburn you can open the preview and it should show you which line isn’t going to burn. That is the one that’s over the line for reason. Sometimes even being exactly on the line makes it think it’s over. I have also noticed that if you are using inches instead of mm it could potentially have this issue as well.
Do you have a laser bed grid that works with xcs or lightburn? thanks
Hi. The one on Etsy has files for both.
Hey there Ryan! I purchased your file and I'm having trouble with the limit switch on the front when it makes the first pass toward the button. Not really sure what the problem is. If its a simple cable fix. None of the setting in lightburn have changed except power & speed.
Just make sure you read the Read Me First file in the zip folder. It has important info that may be helpful.
@@BusterBeagle3D That's how I first tried to run it with no air assist on it and all no crosshair. Ended up just turning off the limit switches homing the device and running it and had no problems. Almost like my limit switches are a MM too far forward or my cable in the back is keeping my homing to be forward by a MM or 2. That's my only guess.
@@TylerAvakian It's possible there might be slight hardware differences in how the machines where assembled that could be affecting the limit switches like you said.
Hi Ryan - I recently purchased your grid file for Lightburn. I read the read me first file that you included and completed those tasks. When I ran the file the majority of the grid burned on the spoil board with the exception of the long horizontal on top half and the horizontal lines on lower left section. Can you help? Thanks
Lower right section
Make sure your workable area is set to the full workable area on the version of the machine you are using if you are in Lightburn. If you set your workable area to the exact dimensions of the grid then if there is a dot on the line it wont burn. If you check the Window> Preview button in Lightburn you should be able to see what will burn and what will not.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks for response and advice, that seem to fix the issue. Very much appreciated.
Can a grid system be set up with the D1? My wife bought me a D1 for Father's Day, and I am (not so) patiently waiting for the 20w laser upgrade. I also have the extension arms, so that's something I need to take into account, as well. Great video! THANKS!
I had a made another video about a grid for the original D1. You can find that video here: czcams.com/video/2zoKgH0o9Js/video.html
Now without the limit switches this grid really is intended to be used to square the machine to the spoilboard but doesn't do great for absolute coordinates.
Thanks!
@@jimnugent1143 I finally got around to making an extension version. You can find it here: www.etsy.com/listing/1281256993
do you offer a spoil board layout for Tool pro XD 140 watt with the extension kit?
Hello. I'm not sure what a XD 140 is but if you meant the D1 Pro with the extension I do have a file for that. busterbeagle3d.etsy.com/listing/1281256993
@@BusterBeagle3D sorry, xTool D1 pro 40 watt with extensions.
I’m new to all this and was wondering what are absolute coordinates and why use them?
Absolute coordinates are a grid system that you laser uses to know where it's position is in relation to the home position which is at (Y0, X0) or in other words "Absolute Zero" When you home the laser your machine knows that it's at (0,0) so if you place art in the software at X100, Y100 the laser knows that it has to move left 100mm and froward 100mm to reach that coordinate. That's how you can make use of a burned grid on a spoil board to place your wood onto and know exactly where it's going to be marked on.
I plan on buying this today. What material plywood did you recommed using?
I just bought regular plywood at Home Depot. Think it was birch but it really doesn't matter. Just needs to be 2x2 ft, I went with half and inch thick.
@@BusterBeagle3D MDF should work as well. With MDF, you won't have all those confusing grain shapes running all over the spoil board.
any chance you can do a video on all the different types of wood you can engrave not cut. I'm in the UK and the quality and selection of wood in this country is very minimal unless you pay a lot of money.
Even if I would have the same wood as you there are many other factors that can affect the way they engrave or cut. The best way to know how a particular material will perform with your machine is to do a power/speed test on it and see what those values are. You can either make your own tests or checkout the files section on the XTool Facebook group where there are a bunch that you can download and try out.
What is the speed and power you are using? All 1 pass?
I can’t remember off of the top of my head so don’t quote me but I think it was the standard basswood setting in XCS and 7000mm/min at 80%power in Lightburn. All one pass.
Hi!! How many pass throughs do you need to cut out the feet?
It depends on the wood, laser wattage, thickness etc. I always opt for multiple faster passes vs slower single passes.
Can I use this grid with my D1 and XCS software? My laser wont connect to laserbox to use your free version. I know the working area is slightly different between the d1 and d1 pro
Yes. It's slightly smaller then the one I made for the original D1 but the size of the machines are the same size. They just list the size of the D1 as larger but that really it shouldn't be that large on either model. The grid will work just fine and is nicer then my original one.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thank you! Going to download tonight.
genius
Will this work with my regular D1 10watt? It is not the pro version.
Yes it will! The pro versions I have of the grid on Etsy also work with the original D1 as well.
Do you have a version for the 40W laser? Or did I miss it?
I do have a 40W version. I have added them to Etsy files. They were not listed here because this came out way before the 40W did.
I am planning on burning the grid using lightburn, do I need to adjust the power/speed settings? Or use the ones that are already there. thank you
Hello. The ones in there are what I used for the 20W laser on my spoilboard. Depending on the power of your laser and the material of the spoilboard you may need to adjust it slightly.
@@BusterBeagle3D thank you for the quick reply. I am going to be running the 20W laser.
where to find the link for the grids and feet? great info thanks for spreading knowledge
No worries. You can find the files here. www.etsy.com/shop/BusterBeagle3D
When I try to process or frame my grid I get an error saying “Element is placed outside of the processing area.”
For some odd reason they changed the firmware on the 2.0 to have a different workable area even though the frame size and laser are the same. It reached out to the company to tell them to fix that but I guess they haven’t. The files will work in Lightburn but might be too big in creative space. Reach out to me on Etsy messages and I can send you a smaller grid that should still work with 2.0.
Hi, just received my D1 Pro 20w. Does the download for the grid include all 4 files, if not how do I find the one for the 2ow? Thanks
The listing for the grid includes a few versions for the 20W laser. The download actually includes 12 versions of the grid depending on which laser you have and which program you intend to use.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks for the very prompt response, Ill be ok now I have that information, keep up the good work
Where do I find the file to cut the feet for the spoil board?
Hi. It’s part of the package you get from Etsy in the video description.
I assume that the Grids won't work with the XTool Honeycomb set, correct? (Just putting xTool D1 Pro 20 together.)
I use the grid to line up the honeycomb and help keep things square but that's about it. It's really used more for lining up while engraving.
@@BusterBeagle3D Thanks, this helps!
I got the grid burned and the mounted to the D1 Pro 20w. I'm using Lightburn, but having problems with the absolute Coordinates. I am testing with a square slate coaster and positioning the bottom left corner at the y200 - x210 coordinate. But when I run the job, the burn is shifted to the left by about 1/3. I homed prior to starting, so not sure what I'm doing wrong. Any ideas?
Make sure you don't have the pointer offset checked in Edit>Device settings. That can throw off your x Axis
@@BusterBeagle3D First, thank your for the reply!! And yes, the Pointer Offset was turned on. So I turned it off, and now it's off-center to the right. Not as much, but still very noticeable. I'm sorry for leaning on you for tech support, but I'm out of ideas.
@@BusterBeagle3D Okay, not sure what happened, but I finally gave up and flipped the spoilboard over, reattached the feet to that side and then re-burned the target. Now everything is perfectly aligned and working as expected. The only thing I can figure out is I let the laser head slam into the Y-axis rail after I had everything done, and possibly knocked it out of zero. Nonetheless, I think this one is solved. And thank you for replying to my question!
@@brad_neal No worries. Glad you got everything worked out!
May I ask if it can cut 3mm acrylic ? solid colors and semi transparent...
It should be able to cut solid acrylic without any issues. It might be able to cut semi transparent plastics depending on the color.
@@BusterBeagle3D thank you
Hello!
Can you tell me if these work on the non-Pro version of the D1?
Yes it will. However you will need to figure out a way to home the machine since the are no limit switches. I recommend this tool: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5274995
I used the 20w Rotary file and all the numbers on the top and bottom line are all over the place on my burn. It's the first thing I have done so not sure if something is wrong with my set-up
What program are you using to burn the grid?
@@BusterBeagle3D I was using XCS.
Hello, will your grid work with the D1 Pro 40W?
Yes. There is a version in there for the 40W
I got the pro20 and now it will not respond and the stop switch light is not on .I been trying to contact xtool with no respond to find out how to get it fix.It says no usb connect with it hook up
I would restart both the machine and your computer. Sometimes the driver on your computer can get out of wack. Once it’s back up if it isn’t working I would check your device manager on your pc and make sure it’s registering that the USB device is being recognized. If it’s something outside of that I’m a little at a loss. Otherwise I would make sure you are using XSC and see if you can connect to the machine over Wi-Fi.
Hi, I purchased the grid, I used the D1pro with the original rotary tool. I think I did something incorrect, the grid is about a half inch to the left of the grid when I home the laser. I'm not sure how it did that, I framed the laser with the grid several times to make sure it was in the right spot. The limit switches are off, and when I frame the grid the laser hits the frame near the button. I know I missed something, I doubt this is correct. Is there any information you can give to help guide me to solving this issue? Thanks so much! Great videos!
Did you also turn off the red crosshairs before burning the grid? If you were using Lightburn there is also a pointer offset that you need to turn off in the Device Settings.
@@BusterBeagle3D
I have disabled the crosshairs and I've also disabled the limit switches. I've created a more detailed post to give more details, thanks so much for responding.
Is it ok to turn the cross hairs and limit switches back on to use your grid after creating the grid?
Yes you can. However if you were to place artwork towards the right edge of the machine you might not be able to frame since the crosshair is offset by about 16mm and might not be able to reach there with the crosshairs. I would highly recommend using the laser itself as your pointer when framing. It's much more accurate in knowing exactly where your laser is going to be working.
@@BusterBeagle3D thank you
The file I bought skips right on top when I start burning it. It jumps 10mm on y. I can send a video if that helps
Make sure you laser can home properly at the beginning and that there are no wires or anything else getting in the way of the of the gantry homing. Also be sure to read the "read me first" file in the zip folder for additional instructions