DON'T Make This QR2 Mistake - Fanatec QR2
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 12. 2023
- Such an easy mistake to make when you're not fluent in interpretive dance and heiroglyphics.
⚡ Site Links and Discount Codes - the following links are all shops and brands that might be of interest to you or worth knowing about. They are all Affiliate/Referral links which grant me a commission if used by you before purchasing something from the sites listed, at no added cost to you. Use them to support my work, and Thank You!
🛒GT Omega: bit.ly/3opeGKU - 5% Off* Code: DANNYLEE
🛒Fanatec: bit.ly/3z3Id1y
🛒Asetek Simsports EU: bit.ly/3Q7B8Y3
🛒Asetek Simsports US: bit.ly/469VZ1a
🛒Asetek Simsports Global: bit.ly/3QxG5rD
🛒Trak Racer (UK): bit.ly/3EC8HK8
🛒Trak Racer (EU): bit.ly/3EZ3H3V
🛒Trak Racer (US): bit.ly/3i9O68m
🛒Trak Racer (AU): bit.ly/3Ov2PqO
🛒Trak Racer (NZ): bit.ly/3gueQ3b
🛒Simlab: simlab.prf.hn/l/8MY9dw0
🛒Sim Demon (UK) 3% off with code DANNYLEE3 : bit.ly/45azDvV
🛒Race Anywhere (UK): bit.ly/3P3sNB8
🛒Simplace: bit.ly/40i0a8j - 5% Off* Code: DANNYLEE
🛒Acelith: bit.ly/40opef3 - 3EUR Off Code: DANNYLEE
🛒iRacing: bit.ly/3aUz7w9
🛒Logitech Pedal Mods (Truebrake, Truepedal): bit.ly/431Dc7A
🛒Moza Racing: bit.ly/3z3rvPD
🛒Ricmotech: bit.ly/3IYW8u9
🛒Turn Racing: bit.ly/3RueJSL
🛒Overclockers UK: tidd.ly/46aPLhA
*Some products excluded from discount (For example GT Omega isn't allowed to discount Moza items)
#iracing #simracing - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thank you for pointing this out! As well that's a nice new looking CS DD Base :). I can't wait to hear your thoughts on it.
Thanks so much for posting, I would definitely have missed this!
This is a very helpful video. I’m no longer in the Fanatec ecosystem, but this video piqued my interest. I’ve seen a few mistakes in Fanatec’s documentation that is either completely wrong or misleading. I’m honestly not surprised that they did it again. This, along with other issues, convinced me to no longer be a customer. Back several years ago, they held a unique position in the industry, but now there are so many more options around the same price point, to go with.
Worth noting, the latest podium hub came with the correct spacer/washer preinstalled, however with the larger/wrong bolts for the QR2 used by the factory. Very easy to miss, probably worthwhile to always use the spacer/washer bolts that come in the QR2 box to be sure.
Thank you for this heads up ,it is greatly appreciated!
You're welcome - don't want folks to make the same mistake
Thanks for this as i have a new setup on the way! Cheers from Newfoundland Canada
Thanks for the vid. Will surely think about swapping out the screws on the wheel side.
Yesterday there was finally some availability for the metal QR2 wheel side adapter on Fanatecs EU store. Having the QR2 wheel side from BF offers on back order I took the plunge as well.
I honestly cant tell if QR1 would have been such a big thing for me if there was no QR2 around or if I hadnt watched some videos about QR1 flex. There is some creaking noises under inscreased FFB pressure on my metal QR1 though. The chances of eliminating that and the prospect of a bit more refinement/sturdyness was just too tempting.
I bought a CSL-DD 8Nm + Formula V2.5X and some awesome clubsport pedals during their black friday sale. So far I am really impressed by Fanatecs built quality, especially for the 500ish Euro price tag. All but the QR1 mounting feel extremely solid and my times in ACC are already improving by a landslide.
Excellent. I'll double check too
Thanks! Double checked this just now. Everything was new and luckily the McLaren v2 already came with a plastic cover. What made it even more confusing is that I received anotehr 2 plastic covers with the QR2 along with the accompanying game of charades (the instruction manual). Luckily the video guide on the instructions gave the images of which bits you need to remove if upgrading
I got scared, but I checked the screw and its literally the same as you get with the qr2
My Mclaren wheel had an issue where the buttons stopped working including the shifters. After powering back on and off again it works again.
But i figured it might be because the bolts next to the connectors are loose or the QR1 bolts.
Now i see you are only allowed to use 1nm near the connectors but how much is this. I used a small screw driver and tightend them but i can probably do half a rotation more if i really want to.
The QR2 videos on Fanatec's CZcams channel are much better than the printed instructions.
They sure are
I just came across a Reddit post where this momorious guy likes to chime in and give secrets of Fanatec. I click the link, and enjoyed your quick little video. I haven't seen a QR2 in person, but I did notice momorious making comments on other posts about the screws. For fun I went and downloaded the manual, an interpretive dance is one way to put it. For a while I was convinced that the manual was just wrong, but I finally see what they were saying on the different options. At any rate, they should stated in words, those pictures are awful and don't explain. Actually, they should just link this video to the installation instructions. At least until they get around to making an appropriate video.
They've made a full video that explains it all, it's just that the quick guide doesn't stress the point! You have to go above and beyond to really know not to use the bolts
he works for them
Will you make a review video of your Clubsport DD base?
Most definitely!
So I just ordered my podium hub with the QR1, do I need to remove the collar? The wheel works fine with it on, but I noticed that it doesn’t mount to my wheel stand 😂
What is that universal hub you're using with the Turn10 rim? It doesn't look like any of the options Fanatec have listed on their site. I'd like to put together a combo similar to yours but hate the look of the Clubsport universal hub and the CSL hub is just hideous..
Its more than clear to me, a red x on the old bolt and a green check on the new one, with the bolt pictured perfectly... what you want more? A usb stick with an audio?
I installed mine yesterday and that step wasn’t crystal clear….I have a podium hub and watched fanatec’s install video where they are more clear about what the symbols in the guide mean
If it can void the warranty, fanatec should be making that absolutely crystal clear.
Yeah, someone should make a video highlighting it
@@dannyleeracingby any chance, do you know anyone who could do that and save many people like me, who wouldn't know?
Its more than clear to me, a red x on the old bolt and a green check on the new one, with the bolt pictured perfectly... what you want more? A usb stick with an audio?
So basically, don’t re use old bolts? Use new to fit QR2? Do the bolts come with the kit?
good heads up video, fanatec always seem to fuck up somehow
Do I necessarily need to buy both products? The qr2 base and wheel Accessories?
If you want to convert an existing QR1 wheelbase to QR2 then you only need one QR2 Base-Side, but you need a QR2 Wheel-Side for every wheel you want to use (unless you're happy removing and refitting a single QR2 to different wheels as and when you use them but it's a good 10 minute task).
QR1 and QR2 can't be mixed
So what goes wrong if you do reuse the old bolts? I did mine correctly but assumed they wouldn't fit or would short something or w/e but you'd notice that instantly, not some time down the road. Do they come loose or something?
The wrong bolts can wreck the threads due to the difference in thread pitch.
@@Khans0120 Thinking about this again, I don't think it can be that. The thing the bolts screw into hasn't changed, so the thread pitch can't have changed either. Only variables I see are thread length, how tall the head is, and the material?
@@Khans0120 Don't think so, the larger bolts came preinstalled on the correct spacer/washer for the QR2 on the latest podium hub I ordered. It's the diameter of the bolt head that creates an issue as they stick out beyond the edge/radius of the washer where the ones that come with the wheel side QR2 attachment have a slimmer diameter and are contained within the washer's radius.
The quick guide has me thinking the P1 wheels use the tapered screws that are on the wheel.
To be honest, I didn't understand. Should the hat be high or low?
you don't say why it's a problem using the old screws?
i just made the same mistake...and fixed it just now.
More proof, if anything, that this video had to be made - it's a sneaky one
Thanks for that and clearly spoken and understood. I sgan't change until I have to - change i say, not upgrade.
the quick guide ikea style looks almost like a parody
Fanatec's video tutorial explicitly states this. I wonder why didn't they make a better notice in the quick guide.
Probably incompetence or shady practice to avoid warranting stuff in the future. After what's happening now, I wouldn't be surprised.
Why do they need replacing? What difference does it make?
Likely a clearance/metal contact issue
@@dannyleeracing doesn't really make any sense though, as you are adding a thicker plastic spacer than that metal ring that was removed, so if the bolts didn't hit anything before, they def arn't gonna hit anything now. :/
@@Mistermoleymole best off just rolling with it, it'll be to ensure something doesn't hit something else and getting installation wrong might lead to something breaking or warranty rejection
Did you observe the spinning issues after minute 1:10 ? ...So the QR2 is actually not solving this annoying Fanatec problem in CSL DDs
That's the sprung collar you're looking at, not the shaft itself, and that's because it's just connected and hasn't had any vibrations or knocks to settle it flat, it'd only take a couple of finger taps to do it. I used it for a race last night and it's now straight when you spin the wheel.
What are we actually checking for?
Checking that you're not mistakenly reusing the original bolts if your wheel requires you to swap them for the supplied bolts. Not all of them need it, but those that do, need it.
Those pins sticking out of the back of that wheel look like they are just waiting to get bent.
They don't stick out when the wheel-side QR is actually on the wheel. I've never had a pin snap on me, but it's definitely happened once or twice to people out there in the wild so it's still not the perfect system.
I don't know where the problem is. Just take 5min for concentration and read the manual. Erverthing is explained and it give a installation Video via qr-code.
Short Version ➡ RTFM
I read the quick-start manual 5 times and even with the knowledge of the problem I couldn't really correlate it to what the manual was trying to represent. The full video guide leaves no doubt, but the enclosed manual I thought was super vague.
I have the BMW wheel and used the original screws and it is making strange noises just wish I didn't go with fanatec at this point. fuckin scammers
Pro tip : Buy Simagic and don't bother with this shit.
Thanks we'll all just get in our time Machines you salty prick
QR2 system is used in real race cars but ok bro keep gatekeeping