Yamaha Outboard Water Pump - Teardown and Replace
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2024
- MarineTechTools.com Full walk through of water pump replacement on a yamaha V6 outboard. Yamaha drive shaft collar removal and upper seal inspection.
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I have been servicing Yamahas for 35 years now and you are making this job way to hard. First never had a Yamaha lower gearcase that I had to pay off even salt water motors, a little tap on the cavitation plate with the palm of your hand or a comp mallet gets them right off. Leave one bolt threaded in a short distance to keep the gearcase from falling. The retainer on top of the impeller is easily removed by using a small heal bar or large flat blade and a block of wood and working around the collar it comes right off no special tools required in turn tapping back down I use a 7/8" box end wrench works like a charm.
Removing the key is also easy, I never have had to drill one out. Use a 1/4" flat punch to drive the bottom of the key in and the top of key will come out. Now the key has been dislodged take a #3 flat blade screw driver and drive down on the key. It has to be dull no chisels and it will come right out if they're not too tight I use a pair of end nips and grab it with downward movement and it's out. To install it use a small ball peen to start the key and finish up with your flat punch.
Yamaha uses adhesive to set there orings and the cup liners grease makes a mess and doesn't secure the orings around the cover when rotating the impeller into the housing. I use 3M 847 rubber adhesive for this job. Use a very small amount in the groove install the oring and give a few minutes to cure. I can't tell you how many times I have found the oring pinched or torn and the motor was getting a over heat warning.
Lastly a little silicone spray on the inside of the impeller let's it slide right on. I coat the Inside of the housing and impeller with glyserin available at Walmart makes rubber very slippery and it's water soluble and washes out on startup. Grease doesn't wash out can attack the impeller and at the lake Sand can mix with it and gum up the pump with abrasive.
By the way only use spline grease on spline's.
I have been a Yamaha tech sense 1984 when Yamaha outboards first came to the USA. and this is what has worked for me
Very nice to read someone who knows what he is doing and does not make things so hard, I tried to replace a impeller and made a mess of it by using Permatex to hold things like the O-ring in, but I was working on a 1997 Evinrude Oceanpro which is a bear as far as I was concerned, spent a lot of money and still had to take it to the shop, could not get the linkage hooked back up to save me. I have so much respect for mechanics,I can quote law and enforce it but I cannot work on an impeller.Thanks for the input.
@@1DesertCop Evinrude and Johnson shift shafts are the hardest to reinstall and not for the DYI guys, some model's are difficult even for a experienced tech.
You are right about that
Any thoughts on deleting the oil system on a 90 200hp yam? It failed and almost blew my engine up. Can I just take the drive part out of the pump and leave all the hoses connected ?
@@stevestonacek7128 The Yamaha shit shaft took me hours and hours, two mechanics on the phone, and finally a helper.
Excellent video. I watched it twice and then replaced the water pump in my Yamaha F150 without any hiccups. Thanks Marine Tech Tools. Much appreciated.
Your video was EXCELLENT! Very good walkthrough on every important detail...It helped me tremendously...New water pump and all new seals....Never worked better.. Thanks!
Thanks for this video. I just bought a 1999 pontoon boat with a 1994 Yamaha 115 V4 and I had to replace the totally fried water pump. Took it out for a test run today and it ran amazingly well. Very helpful info in here!
Thankyou for the video, you gave me the cofidence to do my very first water pump change ever and I have been boating for 3 decades
Great video, particularly as you have recorded small errors which help us viewers understand what we could be up against and how to correct. Thank you
Thank you. Your attention to detail was so very helpful. First repair to my 2009 Yamaha 115 complete 😁👍
The other video's I watched (and unfortunately went by) did not mention the Wave Washer between the two Plate Washers OR the importance of lifting the drive shaft while setting the Drive Shaft Collar.Luckily I haven't put the boat in the water so I am going to take it back apart and fix things.Thank You so much for having such a detailed video.
Way more detailed than this other video by some good ol' boy. Nice work. Plan to take my first water pump repair on my F250 this weekend.
Dino Simotas ＂
OUTSTANDING step by step. Thank you very much!!!
Still the best video for pump change out.. Great job...
So I decided to tackle the 100 hrs/Annual service myself (2015 Sportsman 251 Heritage 2x Yamaha F150). After watching a couple of your videos, i started, a bit of a learning curve but I am pretty good at figuring things out. Everything I did on one engine took me less than half the time on the second, figures, confidence level is up! Everything went as shown on the video. All the bolts removed were wire brushed and threads cleaned with a drill with a SS wire brush (cheap at Harbor freight tools as you will ruin them). They were fighting me coming out but then putting them back in was piece of cake, hand tight then torque wrench. Looked up all the torque settings. Clearly the last mech did not do that and didn't grease the bolts. Patience was need to remove the collar a bobo et the impeller but about 10 minutes and done. But here is were your video really saved me from going nuts, the woodruff key. On the first engine it would not budge. Then I remembered your trick, drilled it some, took the air hammer ti it and out she went, fantastic trick, would have never thought of it myself. Second engine when i made the mark to drill the key moved and got it out easier. Your video is right on and the best i have seen, followed your instructions and done. 12 hours total, yes I am slow but at the current shop prices and buying my own parts (all Yamaha) I'm in it for about $600 versus my local dealer would have charged me about $2,000. This includes: thermostat and gasket, fuel water separator, fuel filter, oil filter, oil for engine and lower unit, pump for lower unit, water pump kit complete with housing ( mine were bad!). Last years service at the dealer cost me $1,800. Your video Rock! Thank you.
Thanks for the video, it's good to know what I'm up for so I can decide if I will do it myself or take it to a dealer. It's a big thumbs up from me. Rick
Best video for this I've found, thank you for showing lil complication areas too, top notch video, Mahalo!
Thank you for a detailed tutorial, I am having the same issues with my woodruff key. I appreciate your videos. Thanks again.
I have found that a 3" C Clamp works great pressing the woodruff key into place
THANK YOU VERY MUCH! I have watched video after video on how to get these apart and everybody talks about the 7 bolts but not the 8th one. I have been trying to get mine apart for hours until I seen you talk about the 8th bolt and sure as crud I had a 8th bolt! I removed it and it fell apart!!!! Thank you!!!!
Great video. Clear concise and accurate. Thank you.
Great video, very clear and understandable. Congrats.....
Awesome video & ive had to pry motors off several times , nice job 👍👍👍👍
thanks for a great video. I will be doing this in a few hours, so this is really helpful.
Very good tutorial it really helped me a lot brother thanks god bless you
Excellent video!
Great job, well done. Thanks for the info.
Great video series thank you for sharing this info!
To remove the woodruff key on my 115, I used a small jewelers screwdriver and a hammer, The screwdriver was narrow enough to fit in the slot behind the key & after a few taps with the hammer, I was able to pry the key out.
Jeff Bowers you should grab it from above with a wire cutter to pry out the key
Regarding the wire cutters, are you saying to hold the cutters upside-down/vertically (handles up), then grab the top of the key and pry it out? Sound like a great idea.
Used a hefty cold chisel and ball pein hammer to gently tap it out. The chisel does the heavy lifting. When it comes loose grab key with pliers and use hammer to finish removing it.
Water pump kit has new key. Grease the slot and the key before replacing. Only issue I had was the large o ring for the white cover did not want to stay in place because of newness. When I rotated shaft replacing housing it went on smoothly and snug. I did not see any sign of o ring protruding around the paper gasket.
Excellent video and excellent comments. This is great for those of us needing to see this done. The first time I had my impeller replaced by a mechanic we had a rattle. They fixed the rattle. Did it myself this time, same thing, I have a rattle. Not sure if it's from not pulling on the shaft hard enough to get the play out or how far down I need to tap that piece on top of the impeller when pulling on it. Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks, Jeff. Good video.
best you tube video series ever.
super vidéo et merci de l'avoir fait. je dois faire la même chose sur mon Yamaha V4 115 hp.
Translation: 1st verbatim: "super video and thank you for doing this. i will do the same thing on my Yamaha V4 115hp". 2nd meaning: " Super video thanks for making it. I'll do the same on my Yamaha V4 115hp." That's the best translating French-English I can do. I might be wrong on the tense on the second sentence, it may read "I have done" verses "I will do"; I think it's future tense.
Thank you!! very good information for me to work on my motor
Great video. Those woodruff keys can definitely be a bear. Had one that actually sheared flush with the shaft & had to drill and dremel, after hitting it with PB blaster. My only comment would be to place rags underneath when drilling so the filings do not fall into the chambers. I realize the bearings are still encased, but still prefer to keep these areas clean. Thanks for posting
I am currently trying to remove my woodruff key. Same issue. Totally sheared off and appears to be welded in and not removeable. I am currently slowly using dremel cutting discs to create a place for the new woodruff key. What a hassle.
GREAT Videos....Thank you from the DIY preventive maintenance folks.... question does a freshwater static\cold flush travel through ALL the same passages as a warm\earmuff engine running flush?
Man changing the waterpump on my 2002 honda outboard 13 years later was still a breeze .Now i have a Yamaha and it looks like it could be a Real Pain!!.Good Video think you should have put some rags in the water intake before drilling .Those metal shavings are going to get sucked up into the new impeller
no grease in cup! it whips up, never washes away, and collects sand! also the key shouldnt be that hard. if it is, maybe use a dremel w a cutoff wheel to slit the center of the key, then a pair of visegrips will crush it and it will fall out....
just realized i commented same thing on this 9 mos ago:)
Maybe use a water-soluble grease?
@@szinski I Just use a little dish soap. Lubricated great and washes away immediately
excellent tutorial
Thank you sir. Very helpful.
Never seen anyone need to beat the key in. Nice scratches on your new plate.
Yamaha's keys are very tight and are quite often destroyed when removing them that's why they include one in the pump kit
Brobins75 got it right when he said use a Drexel and cut it up the middle. I tried pb blaster,tapping both ends to loose it, I drilled it and I finally tried cutting it with a Dremel. It doesn't leave a lot on either side to grab so I used a very thin wedge and tapped the sides in with that. No damage to the key way either!
"Compartilhando conhecimento"isso se chama. Claro que todas as dicas,macetes etc são bem aceitas...mas,a técnica de aplicação nos serviços muda de cada profissional,cada um tem sua maneira.
The work you did on the impeller plate with the hammer had me grinding my teeth
A PVC pipe with an interior diameter of 1" worked like a charm to get that washer collar seated by the way. Pull up on the drive shaft while pushing down with the PVC pipe and it seated perfectly.
Nice video. Thanks
I agree with Steve with everything he mentioned/suggested. But I have to add, Pull the prop. When your my age you will!
Great Video. Can you tell me what type of grease are you using on the rubber parts?
I am worried about compatibility issues.
Great video showing the steps. One question I have regarding the seals in that old water pump housing. The drive shaft has a groove which appears to have been caused by the old seals. Would it have been better to replace that housing with a new one that has new seals in it?
Well after watching you I was going to do the job myself but now I’m taking it to my local shop 175 doesn’t sound that bad after watching you thanks
If the speedometer tube is broke will it stop the pee function when flushing? Is there video on replacing the speedometer hose? Ours is broke off right where it goes into the lower housing.
could you take a small triangle file and cut a shallow channel on side of woodruff key to allow any excess grease or air to escape? Why did you leave the propellor on? That is a little extra weight you didn't need to fight. You must have a reason.
Hi there,
very good video
What fat are you using?
Thank you very much
how do you put seals on the Tilt hydraulic cylinder? 2006 250. does the top T come off or the bottom unscrew from the shaft once its apart? i don't want to damage anything
Good job
I like the gloves
Its an ok vif. Missed a few yhings that he shouldnt have but better than nothing got some major points accross. In id say 7/10
Excellent video as always!! Keep the good work... I have done this to my F40, but left it to neutral. After reinstalled the lower unit, the prop is stuck. Doesn't move left or right. What can I do? Thanks
Tare it back down and fix it right. Sounds like the spines are not lined up or the shifter rod is not lined up
Great detail in this video. The part # for the kit would be great man.
you can use a wrench to push down on collar
milky licker or a thrust washer for the prop shaft makes a nice installation tool.
Yep big cresent wrench
on that boat, is water supposed to go in and out of the back splashwell and kind of self drain, or is it supposed to the sealed off with drain plugs... I have an 86 bayliner that is made that way, and water comes in there.
I advocate using never seize on all bolts. The 4 water pump housing bolts and the 7-8 lower housing bolts should be coated with never seize.
The bolt into the trim tab could be lubed with die electric but not never seize or grease. It must transmit electricity.
What is the purpose of the nylon bushing and the 3 washers. What would happen if you re installed without them?
Is there any video available for disassembling the gearbox gears for 150 Yamaha ?
a pair of end cutters works great on the key
nice vid.. one question, why not never seize on the bold threads vs grease?
I read that you can use food-grade anti-seize compound which does not have any metal in it.
I broke my speedometer cable fitting yesterday. What happens if I left that just broke off because when I lowered it into the bucket after changing the water pump I had oil in the water and on the foot at the waterline. Is it because I did not replace that fitting and just left it open. Can oil come out of that fitting and can I since I do not use a speedometer and it is blocked off just plug it? Rather than purchase the fittings for the speedometer cable I never use. I only ran the motor a few minutes in the bucket to test the water pump saw the oil and stopped.
The best method I have found with woodruff keys is using a set of sidecutters
If you have to replace the housing, is the seal for the water pickup installed inside the housing already or is it a separate purchase? 2015 Yamaha 200.
I can’t get the spacer or collar off even with your tool. I’ve hit it pretty hard and still nothing. Suggestions?
A try using a date which is a pair of diagonal cutter pliers
If you are working with a counter rotation motor, would you turn the driveshaft counterclockwise when setting the impeller back into the housing??
Not unless the motor runs backwards
Did you use a specific type of grease?
Why replace the key if not rusted or damaged?
After installing the water pump on vf115, and reinstalling the lower unit. I put the motor in the water, I'm getting water and exhaust in the shift tube. Is this normal? where did I go wrong?
"Gawd dam!" Lol. Sounds like me. Great video.
Maybe I missed it. When disassembling is the gear shift lever left in nuetral?
I got stuck when my woodruff key won't budge; it required major surgery! Question: how do you get the orings on the housing to stay in place when reassembling? My orings are real loose and will not stay in place. Should I use a spray adhesive or Permatex material to hold it in place? Thanks.
If the key is stuck, I read that you can use a Dremmel to cut a slot down the center of the key, then squeeze the two halves together and the key will pop right out. Need to be careful not to cut too deep and cut the shaft.
I am attempting to do the service on a 1993 250 Yamaha and the lower unit seem stuck. It doesn't want to let go the top. What can you tell me?
Great video! What is the purpose of a damper seal?
For exhaust
does anyone know if the lower unit bolts should be greased ? I'm assuming yes cant see why not. Cheers
One thing I painfully discovered is the gear tube can misalign even though you're so sure all went as planned
I’ve had luck with the key with taking a pair of vice grips, welding on a nut at the adjustment end, and screwing in a small slide hammer. Snap it on and yank it out.
Hello
Do we shift it forward in gear or leave in neutral before dissassemble the lower unit for water pump replacement.
Thanks
Trung Diep leave it in neutral
no havent tried it yet.
you said (15:55) "yamaha unique addition is wave washer assembly." Does that mean it is optional because I did not receive the wave washer assembly with my new water pump?
I'm pretty sure timothy A that make sure you don't lose it because it does not come in the water pump kit. hth
Quick question, on the Speedo tube that is near the shift shaft, if I do not replace the hose back onto that, will that cause serious issues? I don’t even use the route that goes into the Yamaha digital gauges, so I was wondering if I could bypass putting that back on. I’m sure I just need to put it back on but when working by myself it’s hard to get the route put back on the nipple, and get a zip tie on it so I’m just wondering how important that is. Thanks.
I am a fiberglass and refinishing guy and I don’t mess with any engines other than my own so that’s why I don’t know, I am pretty clueless for the most part when it comes to outboards. I did do the whole repair of all the oil seals using your tool on my own 2003 ox66 so I was competent enough to at least do the seals.
For the love of god, dont use metal screw driver to pry lower unit.
Do not put to mutch grease on the bolts the air in the bolt holes can build up kinetic energy and crack the alumin(i)um! and instead of grease on the rubber impeller use vaseline it stays in place longer and wont not hurt marine life
Where can I buy the tools in your video?
Does the Yamaha SHO 225 have the same spacer and spacer ring on top of the impeller? if so how do you remove it with out that special tool you used?
Did you find out how to do it without the special tool
wazup3333 two flathead screwdrivers resting on two sockets that are around the height of the part. Use the sockets to pry against. Pry carefully from both sides and it should pop up. If it’s really stuck cut it with a dremel tool and replace the plastic spacer and stainless ring. Less than 20.00 at any Yamaha dealer.
My 2002 150hp shop manual says use medium Loctite on housing bolts. Not grease.
Hmm...I've done quite a few. Usually use never seize. Never had a loose bolt...ever. But it did look like those bolts had washers and no lock washers so
Good video, very informative but for a professional shop I am surprised not to see a spray can of penetrating fluid, a can of anti-seize lubricant, or a parts cleaner sink, and a brass hammer to knock in the woodrift key.
Why do you not want grease on top of the shaft?
One could make a 1 hour video on re-installing the lower unit. Alignment of the shift linkage can make one curse like a drunken sailor.
LOL...... yes... yes it can, and has!
Fine job showing us how to over haul the water pump
Buongiorno ha un video della sostituzione del filtro benzina? No decantatore .. grazie
bien
😇
When removing the impeller itself then when I remove the base plate and the gasket under it, am I able to remove it without taking the keyway out.? I have a Y115 also its important to have that key way even when you replace it correct? so as to when you replace the impeller down onto it it glides into place easy and not get jammed up.
nice job. but 2 things.... im pretty much an idiot, so correct me if im wrong...
1. Are u sure u want to use grease inside the cup?
MAYBE around the o-rings, but have you seen what happens to a little bit of grease once the impeller whips it up inside the cup? It turns into butter, which can possibly clog s*** up.... i sometimes use dish soap inside the cup and it will just wash away. maybe im going overboard.
2. howz about using a punch on the key and give it a good whack a few times. i know its frozen sometimes. thats when i get out the dremmel and grinding small grinding disk and grind a slit right down the middle of the key. Then grip w a pair of vise grips and "crush" it in half. works perfect and no nicking the shaft. it instantly falls out....
but good job and thorough.
+1, I Iike the soap idea for this!
Is there a reason not to go ahead and change the O-rings?
Can confirm that Yamaha woodruff keys absolutely such