Lots of dummies in the comments about how you grinded the ball joint. no way it would have pressed in without grinding it. Your making it work with what you have, not everyone can afford high end parts. Great video!
tnx for tip on "machining" a little off the knurl to facilitate installation... on repeated attempts the ball joint kept shifting "out of square" as I pressed it in, then I remembered seeing your video and took a half round file to "machine" down what i guess about 1/2 the knurl depth -as true round as I could by hand... IT WORKED!!! went in straight and tight... upper right BJ on 2007 Trailblazer
Those ball joint tools are designed specifically not to be used with impacts and that’s why you had problems. Ratchet with leverage is the best way, I have never had an issue getting anything out with the “cheap stuff”
GM & other suppliers make lower control arms with the ball joint in place which makes this chore a lot easier. The lower control assembly isn't very expensive...
Thanks. I see this same mistake often! Always release the caliper pressure by opening the bleed valve so as to avoid pushing dirty fluid into the expensive anti-lock controller. Never push the fluid backwards into the system.
@@sciglassblower if there is dirty fluid in the system, it doesn't much matter what the best way for it is to go. The stuff shouldn't be in there. It shouldn't be going either way.
@@RustBeltAuto Why are you doing videos to show people how to do things correctly when you cannot understand that pushing dirty fluid into delicate anti-lock control systems is bad? The dirt will get stuck in there and cause problems. Flushing it out does not get it all out and it causes errors on the computer etc. Ask me how I know. Because I made that mistake and will not do that again.
@@sciglassblower you're not adding "dirt". The "dirt" as you call it is already there. The fluid needs to be replaced. Stop coming up with stupid reasons, and ideas, while blaming mechanics, because of an owners lack of maintenance.
AC Delco is GM. It is good. As far as the rest of your question, I guess it depends now doesn't it? My best advice would be, what the victim wants, the victim gets. Stop 4 wheeling, driving over pot holes, curbs, etc, and your stuff might last a lot longer.
I’d like to know wtf they rent out the ball joint kit without that sleeve that’s got the side missing out of it for the lower ball joint...my trailblazer doesn’t have a snap ring and isn’t budging at all...it almost looks like it’s part of the lower control arm
I think that was my regular BJ kit. Almost just like the one at harbor freight. As for getting it out, just get it as tight as you can, and whack the c-clamp press with a BFH a few times. It should pop.
I have a big question and would like a honest answer. I have been driving a 2003 GMC envoy I recently replaced the hub bearing assembly. When I looked at the videos on CZcams. Every single one had a front axle that had to be removed. I did not have one. On either side. You can see the hole on the other side when I was changing it out. So where the cv axle would be... Was empty, nothing at all. All I had to pull off was the brake calipers and the three bolts for the hub assembly. Put it back together the same way. Been driving it for a few years now. Anyone know if my wife or my life is on the line. It eats tires.... So I buy cheap. But idk... Please don't be mean. If you don't know you don't know. And I thought all cars have front cv axles. 2 of them at that and I don't have any. My neighbor said nahan you don't need that shit your good. Oh and you been driving it like this... Yea your fine man. I'd like another opinion...
You have a 2 wheel drive model. Sometimes the bearings are different from 4 to 2wd. So it depends. Most fwd, and 4wd bearings need an axle to keep the bearing from falling apart.
@@RustBeltAuto so it sounds like it's a normal thing. Because yes the bearing is covered essentially by the hub assembly. Ok thanks that makes me feel better. I do know I need ball joints and a alignment. I should be good to go. Again thanks for the info.
Mine is exactly as you described but mine used to be 4 wheel drive but I had them remove front cv cause differential went out so it was cheaper for me to just cut off snd remove then to spend 1000 on differential
China. They are reboxed to many different brands depending on where you buy them. It's not Moog, or original equipment, and that is about the only 3 competitors. Sometimes Moog is Chinese too. I get the cheap stuff. Not any real difference if you cut them in half.
@@RustBeltAuto I use Mevotech when I can. I just changed out the lower in my moms trailblazer. Didn't need to grind off the knurling though. The old one (original) came out like butter. The new one required a shit ton of force to get it in there.
It is difficult to tell what the best parts are anymore in suspension parts.. The cheap Chinese crap seems to work as good as any on front end parts for me most of the time. Some of the expensive name brand joints are crap sometimes. American type 4wd trucks with crappy SAI tear up ball joints no matter what you do. It is fun to cut stuff in half, and see plastic cages, even in some high end stock cars. Factory junk. Thanks for watching.
@@reznha always nurture with a hammer. If you see the tool is on the outside edge of the joint where you are supposed to press it. Hammering on it the right way relieves stresses, and causes the joint to go in square without forcing the hole to go out of round. It also produces more force, so the screw on my tool lasts longer. I have had that ball joint tool for over 20 years, and could never count how many jobs I have done with it.
It's just re-boxed Chinese house brand. Most suppliers will sell the same Chinese joint. You will know when you have one when you measure it, and the box says made in China.
@@RustBeltAuto Yes, I just realized that. I bought an ACDelco water pump and the casting looked like a complete disaster. I took over the payments on my sister's 2006 Trailblazer. The new fan I just bought also has a surprising amount of run out. The Denso coils that I just bout for my Mazda are made in the USA.
@@coffeefish It's fun. Everything is word play with "American" car companies now days. This is an age where Japanese car companies are more American than American car companies. Mazda is Ford too, so there is that.
Ball joint. The measurement of the thing depends on the inside diameter of the hole you put it in. .003" press fit is good. Meaning the ball joint being .003" larger in diameter than the hole you put it in. The diameter of the hole changes depending on how many ball joints have been replaced, and if it was pressed in/and/or out completely square and true. If you want to just hack one in there like almost everyone does, just get a MOOG, or other quality joint, hope for the best, and ram it home. Worst case scenario, you get a lower control arm, or weld it in. Good luck.
@@RustBeltAuto Good afternoon! Thanks for the answer. I have CTR CBM-34 and AC Delco 45d2296 ball bearings the landing diameter of the case is the same = 45 mm (1.77 inches). You are using a larger diameter ball bearing (>45mm). What is the name of your balloon?
Good afternoon! Thanks for the answer. I have CTR CBM-34 and AC Delco 45d2296 ball bearings the landing diameter of the case is the same = 45 mm (1.77 inches). You are using a larger diameter ball bearing (>45mm). What is the name of your balloon?
@@user-os7pg1os6u cheap China Re-box. No matter where you buy it from, if it says China somewhere on the box, and it is knurled oversized, there is a good possibility that it is the same ball joint. I can get one of these cheap joints in probably any parts store in the country, and they all put it in their own branded boxes.
@@RustBeltAuto Thank you for your answer. I completely agree with you 100%. Question? What is the name of the ball bearing that you work out and sharpen?
That would be a double negative. Besides, the thing has been on the road without a problem. So in effect it is a working bad not good job? What's the problem?
You shouldn't hit like that it's not a construction job..your changing a tire rod and ball joints don't understand why you need to open all that up to do that..when you open up parts you should be careful.. imagine if this was a customer's car
This is my favourite mechanic on CZcams no bulshit from this guy straight to the point easy to listen to I appreciate his channel
Lots of dummies in the comments about how you grinded the ball joint. no way it would have pressed in without grinding it. Your making it work with what you have, not everyone can afford high end parts. Great video!
tnx for tip on "machining" a little off the knurl to facilitate installation... on repeated attempts the ball joint kept shifting "out of square" as I pressed it in, then I remembered seeing your video and took a half round file to "machine" down what i guess about 1/2 the knurl depth -as true round as I could by hand... IT WORKED!!! went in straight and tight... upper right BJ on 2007 Trailblazer
Alisha King so it's not just me?
I really like how he films! Great Job!!!!!
Hammering on the ball joint good way to wreck the threads.
Agreed. Not wise to hammer on the threads you're going to use.
Thanks especially for the tips on the brake rotor replacement and the wheel center cap...markings on the back side of the cap, who knew!
Ummm... The guy with the blue sweatshirt.
Love this guys accent
Those ball joint tools are designed specifically not to be used with impacts and that’s why you had problems. Ratchet with leverage is the best way, I have never had an issue getting anything out with the “cheap stuff”
What's the proper press fit for a ball joint like this? I forget.
just saw the video there's no way i would hammered it in ,, and ground off the knurl too . the knurl is for biting into the control arm .
Ya. Get a better ball joint.
GM & other suppliers make lower control arms with the ball joint in place which makes this chore a lot easier. The lower control assembly isn't very expensive...
thanks dude, this video saved me a lot of cash and your instructions worked great!
Thanks. I see this same mistake often! Always release the caliper pressure by opening the bleed valve so as to avoid pushing dirty fluid into the expensive anti-lock controller. Never push the fluid backwards into the system.
Technically, if it's dirty, it should be replaced.
@@RustBeltAuto What has that go to do with pushing dirty fluid back into the system? The damage is done!
@@sciglassblower if there is dirty fluid in the system, it doesn't much matter what the best way for it is to go. The stuff shouldn't be in there. It shouldn't be going either way.
@@RustBeltAuto Why are you doing videos to show people how to do things correctly when you cannot understand that pushing dirty fluid into delicate anti-lock control systems is bad? The dirt will get stuck in there and cause problems. Flushing it out does not get it all out and it causes errors on the computer etc. Ask me how I know. Because I made that mistake and will not do that again.
@@sciglassblower you're not adding "dirt". The "dirt" as you call it is already there. The fluid needs to be replaced. Stop coming up with stupid reasons, and ideas, while blaming mechanics, because of an owners lack of maintenance.
Great video 👍👍 thank you.
Great vid! Thanks!
I am told AC Delco is the best after the original parts by GM. Aftermarket stuff gets worn quicker. Please advise.
AC Delco is GM. It is good. As far as the rest of your question, I guess it depends now doesn't it? My best advice would be, what the victim wants, the victim gets. Stop 4 wheeling, driving over pot holes, curbs, etc, and your stuff might last a lot longer.
Glad I watched before doing this! The bjoint I have has those knurls on it.. I thought, what the heck??
I would measure everything. Some of those fit just fine.
PS.. not chinese knock-offs either... high dollar Moog..
Ahhh ball joint time 🤣🤣
Stumped guy never used hammer top new parts “gambiarra “ video
How do you replce. Hubsem
The best part: 9:33 thank me later! LoL
I’d like to know wtf they rent out the ball joint kit without that sleeve that’s got the side missing out of it for the lower ball joint...my trailblazer doesn’t have a snap ring and isn’t budging at all...it almost looks like it’s part of the lower control arm
I think that was my regular BJ kit. Almost just like the one at harbor freight. As for getting it out, just get it as tight as you can, and whack the c-clamp press with a BFH a few times. It should pop.
Having same problem with ball joint but china ball joint is little bit bigger so i have to grind it
Excellent...good to know about the 15 thou. oversize aftermarket part sizing and what to do about it. Thanks!
I have a big question and would like a honest answer.
I have been driving a 2003 GMC envoy I recently replaced the hub bearing assembly. When I looked at the videos on CZcams. Every single one had a front axle that had to be removed. I did not have one. On either side. You can see the hole on the other side when I was changing it out. So where the cv axle would be... Was empty, nothing at all. All I had to pull off was the brake calipers and the three bolts for the hub assembly. Put it back together the same way. Been driving it for a few years now. Anyone know if my wife or my life is on the line. It eats tires.... So I buy cheap. But idk... Please don't be mean. If you don't know you don't know. And I thought all cars have front cv axles. 2 of them at that and I don't have any. My neighbor said nahan you don't need that shit your good. Oh and you been driving it like this... Yea your fine man. I'd like another opinion...
You have a 2 wheel drive model. Sometimes the bearings are different from 4 to 2wd. So it depends. Most fwd, and 4wd bearings need an axle to keep the bearing from falling apart.
@@RustBeltAuto so it sounds like it's a normal thing. Because yes the bearing is covered essentially by the hub assembly. Ok thanks that makes me feel better. I do know I need ball joints and a alignment. I should be good to go. Again thanks for the info.
Mine is exactly as you described but mine used to be 4 wheel drive but I had them remove front cv cause differential went out so it was cheaper for me to just cut off snd remove then to spend 1000 on differential
@anthonymartin7983 just a update. Fixed that problem. But the transmission blew up.
who is the manufacturer of the ball joint?
China. They are reboxed to many different brands depending on where you buy them. It's not Moog, or original equipment, and that is about the only 3 competitors. Sometimes Moog is Chinese too. I get the cheap stuff. Not any real difference if you cut them in half.
@@RustBeltAuto I use Mevotech when I can. I just changed out the lower in my moms
trailblazer. Didn't need to grind off the knurling though. The old one (original) came out like butter. The new one required a shit ton of force to get it in there.
It is difficult to tell what the best parts are anymore in suspension parts.. The cheap Chinese crap seems to work as good as any on front end parts for me most of the time. Some of the expensive name brand joints are crap sometimes. American type 4wd trucks with crappy SAI tear up ball joints no matter what you do. It is fun to cut stuff in half, and see plastic cages, even in some high end stock cars. Factory junk. Thanks for watching.
And there is no snap ring on lower ball joint ? I did not see one
There should be one.
when u take the hammer i say bye
WE LOVE HAMMERS!
@@RustBeltAuto me too but never in a new part
@@reznha always nurture with a hammer. If you see the tool is on the outside edge of the joint where you are supposed to press it. Hammering on it the right way relieves stresses, and causes the joint to go in square without forcing the hole to go out of round. It also produces more force, so the screw on my tool lasts longer. I have had that ball joint tool for over 20 years, and could never count how many jobs I have done with it.
What brand was the oversized ball joint?
It's just re-boxed Chinese house brand. Most suppliers will sell the same Chinese joint. You will know when you have one when you measure it, and the box says made in China.
@@RustBeltAuto I avoid Chinese. Anything is better. Mexico, Canada, Taiwan,,,anything.
@@coffeefish GM loves China. They are in bed with China, so what you are saying since you own, or are working on one is kind of an oxymoron.
@@RustBeltAuto Yes, I just realized that. I bought an ACDelco water pump and the casting looked like a complete disaster. I took over the payments on my sister's 2006 Trailblazer. The new fan I just bought also has a surprising amount of run out. The Denso coils that I just bout for my Mazda are made in the USA.
@@coffeefish It's fun. Everything is word play with "American" car companies now days. This is an age where Japanese car companies are more American than American car companies. Mazda is Ford too, so there is that.
Perfect video of how NOT to do it.
How not to do something that worked, that I just did. That would be an excellent headline for some upcoming video. Thanks.
@@RustBeltAuto well just because it worked doesn’t mean you did it right…
@@carloswiebe4541 if something doesn't work, you didn't do it right.
If no Tie Rod out, so no need to be alignment, isn't it? Thanks
Should be good enough.
Funny guy
Jehangir Alam don't know how to feel about that. That's what people said in high school right before they punched me in the face.
Why not just do both sides
If it's not broke, I'm not fixing it.
Good afternoon! Please write the exact measured diameter of the actual lower front ball bearing. Thank you in advance.
Ball joint. The measurement of the thing depends on the inside diameter of the hole you put it in. .003" press fit is good. Meaning the ball joint being .003" larger in diameter than the hole you put it in. The diameter of the hole changes depending on how many ball joints have been replaced, and if it was pressed in/and/or out completely square and true. If you want to just hack one in there like almost everyone does, just get a MOOG, or other quality joint, hope for the best, and ram it home. Worst case scenario, you get a lower control arm, or weld it in. Good luck.
@@RustBeltAuto Good afternoon! Thanks for the answer. I have CTR CBM-34 and AC Delco 45d2296 ball bearings the landing diameter of the case is the same = 45 mm (1.77 inches). You are using a larger diameter ball bearing (>45mm). What is the name of your balloon?
Good afternoon! Thanks for the answer. I have CTR CBM-34 and AC Delco 45d2296 ball bearings the landing diameter of the case is the same = 45 mm (1.77 inches). You are using a larger diameter ball bearing (>45mm). What is the name of your balloon?
@@user-os7pg1os6u cheap China Re-box. No matter where you buy it from, if it says China somewhere on the box, and it is knurled oversized, there is a good possibility that it is the same ball joint. I can get one of these cheap joints in probably any parts store in the country, and they all put it in their own branded boxes.
@@RustBeltAuto Thank you for your answer. I completely agree with you 100%. Question? What is the name of the ball bearing that you work out and sharpen?
U just press everything wrong on the ball joint 😨
Wrong is right. That job is still rolling.
Didn't care for his video sure glad i do my own work just was seeing how much of a pain in the ass it was to change the ball joints
Next time I will hire a playboy centerfold for the video, and make the stars fall from the sky. Then again, maybe not. Thanks for watching!
Bad job not good
That would be a double negative. Besides, the thing has been on the road without a problem. So in effect it is a working bad not good job? What's the problem?
You shouldn't hit like that it's not a construction job..your changing a tire rod and ball joints don't understand why you need to open all that up to do that..when you open up parts you should be careful.. imagine if this was a customer's car
@@alalk7579 ooh really?!?!?
@@alalk7579 What's a tire rod?