If you drop the cradle be aware the radiator will drop out of it's top mounts and the hose will pull it rearward, so check it after you put it back together.
Great video. I am about to do this for the 2nd time. Looking forward to part 2. The ZL1 & SS shares very little other than body and interior. LSA & LS3 isn't even on the same playing field.
indexing is required to maintain the live balance, AND u joints create a sinusoidal relationship in input to output rpm based on the angle of the inlet and outline centrelines. if you change the u joint orientations the sinusoids will not cancel each other out causing a residual un counteracted sinusoid = vibration.
I’ll be going into that in my driveshaft install video. The stock driveshaft only has one joint so there is no cancellation and there is no adjustment for the angles on the Camaro unless you can fabricate a shim. The new driveshaft is a one piece with joints at both ends. Will be an interesting video.
The new intro is cool 😎 along with the new floor lift. Always enjoy the videos bro. Keep ‘em coming. I did not know ZL1 has a cast iron diff case vs an SS having an aluminum. I noticed you run a K&N oil filter. I thought about trying them out but I have been running a WIX. How will I know when my clutch needs to be changed. I noticed when I get over 100 that my clutch peddle sucks in towards the floor board. And I gotta ask if ur old clutch would fit my SS and if you would be willing to sell it to me. Awesome video man.
The LSA clutch is captive witht the flywheel, and the flywheel is 8 bolt. Your engine has 6 bolts so it won't work. I do want to sell it, but in your case, it won't work. GM said that about 30% of the ZL1 is different from the SS, so yes, there are many differences. You'll know when your clutch needs changed when it won't want to go into gear or it slips badly while accelerating. Thanks for watching!
In addition to what @FasNuf Garage told you, when you are driving in gear, foot completely off of the clutch pedal, accelerate hard, if you see the engine revolutions per minute spike quickly then come down without loss of tire traction, that means that the clutch is slipping and that it is time to replace it.
Good thing you marked it all, better safe than sorry, and it doesn't hurt anything. I would do the exact same thing. By the by, at very low speeds, I can hear the differential clunking and feel the slop... do you have driveshaft / differential clunking at very low speeds (1 to 3 MPH) in stop-and-go bumper-to-bumper traffic? I hope you will document how to bleed the hydraulic clutch throw-out bearing... does it need to be bled if air gets into the master brake cylinder (for example, when flushing the brake system)?
Yes, I hear a clunking at very low speeds too. I thought it was the clutch because of the way its designed, but it's not coming from the clutch. I'm thinking it's in the manual transmission or rear end more likely. I notice it when going from accel to decellerating usually. The clutch system only uses the reservoir from the brakes and has it's own master cylinder apart from the clutch. Unless you were cycling the clutch master without fluid, you shouldn't need to bleed it. There wasn't much to bleeding the clutch with the Tick Performance remote bleeder that I installed, but I do explain the process. Thanks for the comment.
@@fasnuf it's good to know that the differential slop / clunking is normal at low speeds! And yes, same happens when I accelerate or decelerate at very low speeds. Thank you kindly for replying, you're a great sport.
What is the part # for those bolts and nuts that came out of the driveshaft against the transmission? Ive been searching for hours and hours and I have not been able to find what I'm looking for. Thanks!!
@@fasnuf just making sure, cause I have all 8 out. And I’m having trouble separating the trans from the engine. Only the driver side separating when I try to shim it out.
@@fasnuf the service manual ive found doesnt have all that info, about the propeller shaft, and clutch pilot bearing replacement etc. probably not the full service manual. ive found a pdf. but its only 372 pages. at 22:49 your at 390. altho i really need a 2010 SS service manual.
Great informative video I'm glad I saw this or I would have had no idea about the one time use bolts in the rear of the driveshaft or about lowering the subframe if need be .
If you drop the cradle be aware the radiator will drop out of it's top mounts and the hose will pull it rearward, so check it after you put it back together.
Great video. I am about to do this for the 2nd time. Looking forward to part 2. The ZL1 & SS shares very little other than body and interior. LSA & LS3 isn't even on the same playing field.
Al Oppenheiser, the chief engineer of the ZL1, did say that 30% of the car is redesigned for performance: czcams.com/video/YBG25O3gQRo/video.html
indexing is required to maintain the live balance, AND u joints create a sinusoidal relationship in input to output rpm based on the angle of the inlet and outline centrelines. if you change the u joint orientations the sinusoids will not cancel each other out causing a residual un counteracted sinusoid = vibration.
I’ll be going into that in my driveshaft install video. The stock driveshaft only has one joint so there is no cancellation and there is no adjustment for the angles on the Camaro unless you can fabricate a shim. The new driveshaft is a one piece with joints at both ends. Will be an interesting video.
The new intro is cool 😎 along with the new floor lift. Always enjoy the videos bro. Keep ‘em coming. I did not know ZL1 has a cast iron diff case vs an SS having an aluminum. I noticed you run a K&N oil filter. I thought about trying them out but I have been running a WIX.
How will I know when my clutch needs to be changed. I noticed when I get over 100 that my clutch peddle sucks in towards the floor board. And I gotta ask if ur old clutch would fit my SS and if you would be willing to sell it to me.
Awesome video man.
The LSA clutch is captive witht the flywheel, and the flywheel is 8 bolt. Your engine has 6 bolts so it won't work. I do want to sell it, but in your case, it won't work.
GM said that about 30% of the ZL1 is different from the SS, so yes, there are many differences. You'll know when your clutch needs changed when it won't want to go into gear or it slips badly while accelerating. Thanks for watching!
@@fasnuf is it normally for my clutch peddle to kinda suck inward towards the floor board when I hammer down in 4th or 5th gear ?
In addition to what @FasNuf Garage told you, when you are driving in gear, foot completely off of the clutch pedal, accelerate hard, if you see the engine revolutions per minute spike quickly then come down without loss of tire traction, that means that the clutch is slipping and that it is time to replace it.
Good thing you marked it all, better safe than sorry, and it doesn't hurt anything. I would do the exact same thing. By the by, at very low speeds, I can hear the differential clunking and feel the slop... do you have driveshaft / differential clunking at very low speeds (1 to 3 MPH) in stop-and-go bumper-to-bumper traffic? I hope you will document how to bleed the hydraulic clutch throw-out bearing... does it need to be bled if air gets into the master brake cylinder (for example, when flushing the brake system)?
Yes, I hear a clunking at very low speeds too. I thought it was the clutch because of the way its designed, but it's not coming from the clutch. I'm thinking it's in the manual transmission or rear end more likely. I notice it when going from accel to decellerating usually. The clutch system only uses the reservoir from the brakes and has it's own master cylinder apart from the clutch. Unless you were cycling the clutch master without fluid, you shouldn't need to bleed it. There wasn't much to bleeding the clutch with the Tick Performance remote bleeder that I installed, but I do explain the process. Thanks for the comment.
@@fasnuf it's good to know that the differential slop / clunking is normal at low speeds! And yes, same happens when I accelerate or decelerate at very low speeds. Thank you kindly for replying, you're a great sport.
What is the part # for those bolts and nuts that came out of the driveshaft against the transmission? Ive been searching for hours and hours and I have not been able to find what I'm looking for.
Thanks!!
I don’t have the parts book, only the Service Manual. The dealer can tell you though.
@@fasnuf thanks!!
Do you need to replace that crankshaft bearing ? The one you pulled out with the bearing puller
It's a good idea because it's so hard to get to.
@@fasnuf how much did the removal tool cost you ? Because I will have to buy one since I’m not from the us so I cannot return it when I’m done lol
There’s 8 bolts holding the transmission?
yes
@@fasnuf just making sure, cause I have all 8 out. And I’m having trouble separating the trans from the engine. Only the driver side separating when I try to shim it out.
which service manual is that ?
It's the factory manual. You can find online. Thanks for watching
@@fasnuf the service manual ive found doesnt have all that info, about the propeller shaft, and clutch pilot bearing replacement etc. probably not the full service manual. ive found a pdf. but its only 372 pages. at 22:49 your at 390. altho i really need a 2010 SS service manual.
Great informative video I'm glad I saw this or I would have had no idea about the one time use bolts in the rear of the driveshaft or about lowering the subframe if need be .