Clamping Oblique and Square Mitre Joints
Vložit
- čas přidán 8. 06. 2024
- This short video shows a couple of ways to pull mitre joints - whether square, oblique or even offset oblique like mine - tight, without needing to resort to excessive force. There's one main basic rule to follow, plus a couple other handy pointers to help stop clamp slip along the way.
My favoured clamping aide is the home made/DIY blocks made from scrap wood for the job.
The principle of these wooden blocks with a cutaway can be used much wider mitre joints too - on a waterfall table for example. Rather than a small block with a birds mouth cut away, you do the cutaway along a board the width of your workpiece. Just remember that centre line through the mitre!!
A really versatile clamping aide shown at the end of the video is the lollipop type. You can find these on the Aliexpress link below.
www.aliexpress.com/item/32960... - Jak na to + styl
I do use this method on my mitres but I’ve never drawn I line through that’s a brilliant idea. Takes the guess work out of it and your voice over and humour is priceless it always drops a smile on my face.
Thanks Bradley, appreciate that. Yeah, using blocks like this is nothing new but I've spotted a few people using them and still getting little gaps. The centre line through the mitre really helps👍
As usual, thanks for sharing knowledge.
My pleasure and thank you so much!🙏👍
Some good info there dude! I hope you had a lovely Christmas!
Cheers mate. I did thanks. Hope you did too man.👍
Great insight thanks, certainly learnt something with this
That's great Paul, thank you.
Very clear, thanks.
Good to hear. Cheers.👍
Very instructive!
Great to hear. Thank you.👍
Excellent ideas, well filmed and presented, many thanks!
Very kind, thank you.
Yeah! Always great videos!
😁Thanks Sam!,👍
Excellent and very useful tips. I have a chair restoration project on the back burner and this has encouraged me to dig it out and finish it.
That's awesome Eddy. I've got a couple of old dining chairs need looking at too. Dig 'em out and have at it!😉👍
Thanks
Thank you so much!👍
That is an insightful method of clamping all manner of joints together. It’s similar, in my opinion, to Newton’s First Law of Motion. Looks obvious after you’ve seen it, and works universally (on earth). Original thinking is very rare in the real world. You should make and patent a jig that does all angles with three clamps and some adjustable clamp faces for clamp 3.
Thank you mate. Love that idea! Although I think it sounds like you could be on the verge of filing a patent yourself!😉👍
@@BischBaschBosch It’s all yours Dude. I reckon you could prototype in your sleep tonight and make it tomorrow.
Packed with useful tips as usual.
Nice one, thanks David.👍
When milling the work piece I leave a bit on that acts as the joint clamp, providing it is easy to cut off after the joint is glued together.
If not a simple cut out triangle on some 2x2 always works.
I do just that on the crowns of my chairs (the piece that joins the back post to the back leg). Unless you're cnc'ing all your parts, it's not always the most efficient method though - in terms of best material use and work to remove after. Hence clamping aides like above. Birds mouth cut aways (mine in essentially 3x2 here) have to be at the correct angle for best results. The centre lines really important here. Thanks for reminding me though. I'll try and show leaving material on for clamping my crowns at some point. It is another good technique 👍
Always great to see your content! Very useful, finally figured out what to use those alu camps for… :D
Hehe. Thanks Jose. Yeah, those alu clamps I've used far more as shown in the vid than a hold down tbh. I meant to do a follow up and demonstrate them when I bought them years ago. Just never got round to it. They're really neat.
Love the channel! Ever try any Bosch FNS router attachments? Would be stoked to see a review as a cheap alternative to the LR 32 system festool makes. Appreciate you.
Thank you mate. I still have the RA-32 (sprung pin) accessory for the OFA guide rail adapter. My rail with the 32mm holes was damaged onsite though. The rail was actually the best part. The pin was a bit fiddly and not massively accurate tbh. Had occurred to me to make my own aluminium pin accessory. I'll put it on the list of things to do this year.👍
@@BischBaschBosch I was looking last night after leaving the comment and the geniuses at FC Tools have a a jig called the FC32 - you can convert any of your rails to a “holey rail” and they make some cool sleds too that may be good inspiration.
Aaaargh maths! 🤣 Thanks for the helpful tutorial! This is great to learn - one thing I wasn't quite sure about is you mentioned not lining up the pencil lines with the cutout sections. Why is that?
😂 Cheers mate. So the original pencil line you draw on the block is just a guide so you can transfer the angle of the line through the mitre. Once you've done the birds mouth cutaway on the block, you align the centre of the cutaway to the centre through the mitre. That way, the power of the clamp is sent right through the centre of the mitre, closing the joint easily. Hope that makes some sense. As I write it, sounds more complicated than it is.
@@BischBaschBosch Thanks man 🙂
@@BischBaschBosch I need to make some of these tomorrow!