With the spring, you can stretch it out a little. That’s what a lot of CZ Scorpion owners do with the binary trigger. The hammer tail, it’s better to cut it with a bandsaw than to grind it. This is actually a good thing to do if one is using a light spring kit and I strongly recommend it. Lightens the hammer, allowing for faster hammer drop and prevents light primer strikes. I have done it a few times.
@@hughgrection3052 if you mean you are pulling and releasing faster than the cycle of the weapon you either need to practice more to get your tempo down better and accept the slower cyclic rate of the weapon. Otherwise, if you are looking to increase the cyclic rate of fire you will need to swap to a lightweight bolt carrier group and lightened buffer/spring assembly. You can also add an adjustable gas block to increase the gas on the action (a last resort as this increases dirt accumulation). Lightweight carrier and buffer groups also have drawbacks in their increase to the felt recoil of the weapon. If it were me I would try a lighter buffer and spring combo kit and play around with mixing and matching the buffers and springs until you are happy. If you still need more speed, you'll need to add more gas or shave weight off of the bolt assembly.
@@Divorceization all true. But it's a MPX tho and not exactly an AR. I'll have to order the aftermarket spring kits maybe for the carriage assembly later maybe. It's just a range toy atm tho so it don't bug me that much tbh. If it was a quick fix tho I'd pursue it more I guess but it's fine thx. I do however own a F1 that's raw like yours but I never mirror polished it yet. I may do so one day. But I put an FRT in it tho and it ran too fast also. I had to put in a heavier spring and buffer and it finally ran fine now. And by doing so I can almost do single fire with it last I tried. So that's kinda cool to have that ability without the aftermarket expensive/rare selectors. My next project will be the MCXs I have. Dam ammo costs have put a cramp on my style tho as far as tinkering lol, especiallyfor 300 AAC. But it's a fun hobby. Thanks for the info bud
Was watching this in bed with headphones on. Got outta bed all mad and went into my hallway to see which damn smoke detector was beeping, waited for a few minutes, nothing, just silence. Returned to watching this video and then had a good laugh at myself when I figured it out. Smh
It's a a government conspiracy to get you to buy more batteries so they can keep listening to you. Don't ever go to the hospital they out chips in your brain.
I just wanna say thank you so much both your videos where extremely helpful and I got my binary trigger working correctly now had the exact same issue everytime i had the selector in binary mode would automatically reset to semiautomatic after the first fire… now binary mode works correctly. I put this trigger on a M&P 15-22 works like a charm!!!
For my fix i found a spring in my spare parts kit that had a similar diameter and coil rate, I believe it was a spare retaining pin spring and I cut it a little longer than the factory spring. Works like a charm and doesn't void the warranty
It's actually polished raw aluminum. I have an F1 raw AR. Mine hasn't been mirror polished tho and I prefer the Mad-Max look it has that way instead of the super shine. Another little secret I stumbled across tho, is to go search the web for raw unfinished AR parts and you'll see they sell for way cheaper too. I guess they're sold this way to dealers who build and then paint them at a discount. But myself I kinda like the raw look. Handguards and upper recievers for like 50$ that cost tons more if painted or anodized. Some folks paint thier rifles camo etc anyways. Worth a check tho
After polishing the 2 pieces so they slide smoothly, I still had a drag in there. I found that the pin with the c clips on it was corroded, so I put it in my drill and polished it also. Problem solved. I have a complete lower ordered so I will check all this out and polish as necessary.
So needs to be ran say a few hundred rounds before binary will function?? My first Franklin armory binary trigger worked flawless never missed a beat, just installed a second on another rifle and it hasn't passed the function test just dry firing...... Not happy about a $400 trigger not working out of the box. Sounds like I'll have to make modifications 🤬
Took mine too both my gunsmiths and said the trigger was fucked in a respectful manner lol didn't know they didn't this bs before I bought it and I got it for my ak as well still shipping though hopefully it doesn't do same shit didn't franklin needs too fix this bs it's 2023
I have become one with the beeping. It is the song of silence. A reminder of time. Beep......... beep........ beep...... knowing the beep will come again is the only truth I can rely on. It is always there for me, surrounding us with its call. Many have come and gone since this video... but the beep remains.
Well I'm having the opposite problem. Was fine for about 1300 rds and now I have only binary. Safe works but semi and binary position both fire binary. I looked at it for a min and nothing looks broken but haven't taken it apart yet. I'm hoping it's not worn out already 😕
@@Divorceization well I took it apart, cleaned it, sanded like you did and replaced the ids spring, same problem. I have another one in a rifle so I carefully compared them, no excessive wear. On the malfunctioning trigger I noticed also that if I lowered the hammer slowly with thumb pressure the sear would catch as it was meant to. The only difference was that on the malfunctioning trigger i had used the heavier hammer spring, so I put the lighter purple spring in with the lighter red trigger spring and viloa it works. No idea why, I think the hammer spring was overpowering the ids spring looks like. Idk it was fine for 1500 or so rds. ??? Weird. Hopefully it lasts longer this time lol.
@@KurtOnoIR I think that was probably a mismatch in spring power coupled with normal break in so it just wasn't operating. I think I used all lightweight stuff on mine or all mil spec. I know I didn't mix n match
@@Divorceization yes could be, i didn't mix and match either tho I don't think. The problem trigger with the heavy (milspec) springs was in one gun and the other one with the lighter springs was in a separate rifle. Now they both have the lighter springs. I have two binary triggers in two separate guns. I should have just tried to swap the disconnector spring just to see, maybe that was fatigued early. I dont want to take it apart again tho lol.
They typically work pretty well in manufacture lowers due to the precise dimensions. But 80% lowers can be off by just a hair and cause these issues. But mainly one of the problems is for sure that IDS spring. They'd probably do nothing but send another one which would do the same. My only hope is someone that works there sees this and implements changes on their end.
@@Divorceization That makes sense. I understand. And, I can see them telling you they can’t help if it’s an 80% lower. Thanks for putting out this detailed information.
Smoke detectors are a government conspiracy to get you to voluntarily maintain listening devices in your home in coordination with Japanese battery company Energizer. Let them beep!
Did you put them into lowers you milled out yourself and converted to working from a hunk of metal or did you buy a predrilled lower? This is more useful for people who made 80% lowers than someone who bought a lower that had been cut with laser precision.
@@Divorceization no I have a stock anderson and buddies have stock brands also. No milling or nothing, maybe we got lucky. Whatever I believe franklin has a good product, little expensive but that everything these days.
@@bobscott117 yeah they are pretty neat things. But yeah the anderson lowers are cut on a high end CNC machine so the "slop" is almost nothing. These Franklin triggers require perfect precision to work right out of the box. And, as you saw in the clip this lower was made in the garage with a dremel and a drill so the precision is not perfect and forces the geometry of the trigger to be a little off which is why these mods are needed. I tried using a drop in fostech but the "box" for the fostech also requires a perfectly cut lower and Franklin's trigger as you know is a multi piece trigger that isn't wrapped in a metal trigger housing so it was perfect.
I wish that were true but I tried several hammers from all sorts of different manufactures. Wish it were that easy but if it worked for you then awesome.
With the spring, you can stretch it out a little. That’s what a lot of CZ Scorpion owners do with the binary trigger.
The hammer tail, it’s better to cut it with a bandsaw than to grind it. This is actually a good thing to do if one is using a light spring kit and I strongly recommend it. Lightens the hammer, allowing for faster hammer drop and prevents light primer strikes. I have done it a few times.
Excellent info thank you!
I have a BFS111 in my MPX and at times I seem to outrun the trigger. Does bobbing the hammer this way help that any?
@@hughgrection3052 if you mean you are pulling and releasing faster than the cycle of the weapon you either need to practice more to get your tempo down better and accept the slower cyclic rate of the weapon. Otherwise, if you are looking to increase the cyclic rate of fire you will need to swap to a lightweight bolt carrier group and lightened buffer/spring assembly. You can also add an adjustable gas block to increase the gas on the action (a last resort as this increases dirt accumulation). Lightweight carrier and buffer groups also have drawbacks in their increase to the felt recoil of the weapon. If it were me I would try a lighter buffer and spring combo kit and play around with mixing and matching the buffers and springs until you are happy. If you still need more speed, you'll need to add more gas or shave weight off of the bolt assembly.
@@Divorceization all true. But it's a MPX tho and not exactly an AR. I'll have to order the aftermarket spring kits maybe for the carriage assembly later maybe. It's just a range toy atm tho so it don't bug me that much tbh. If it was a quick fix tho I'd pursue it more I guess but it's fine thx.
I do however own a F1 that's raw like yours but I never mirror polished it yet. I may do so one day. But I put an FRT in it tho and it ran too fast also. I had to put in a heavier spring and buffer and it finally ran fine now. And by doing so I can almost do single fire with it last I tried. So that's kinda cool to have that ability without the aftermarket expensive/rare selectors.
My next project will be the MCXs I have. Dam ammo costs have put a cramp on my style tho as far as tinkering lol, especiallyfor 300 AAC. But it's a fun hobby. Thanks for the info bud
Was watching this in bed with headphones on. Got outta bed all mad and went into my hallway to see which damn smoke detector was beeping, waited for a few minutes, nothing, just silence.
Returned to watching this video and then had a good laugh at myself when I figured it out. Smh
Me too!!!!
Same thing - nothing angers a man more than that beep. It's always the one requires the highest ladder.
Omg another youtube that didnt change the batteries in his smoke detector
It's a a government conspiracy to get you to buy more batteries so they can keep listening to you. Don't ever go to the hospital they out chips in your brain.
@@Divorceization not gonna lie, I got a chuckle....
@@Divorceization thanks for this series though, it helped me figure out why mine isn't working right...
I just wanna say thank you so much both your videos where extremely helpful and I got my binary trigger working correctly now had the exact same issue everytime i had the selector in binary mode would automatically reset to semiautomatic after the first fire… now binary mode works correctly. I put this trigger on a M&P 15-22 works like a charm!!!
Another happy customer =]
For my fix i found a spring in my spare parts kit that had a similar diameter and coil rate, I believe it was a spare retaining pin spring and I cut it a little longer than the factory spring. Works like a charm and doesn't void the warranty
Nice job, having the same problems and this was so helpful.
Thank you sooooo much for this
This really helped me a lot!
I have never seen a chromed AR before..mannnnn my face hurts from laughing so hard...that is FUCKING AWSOME!
Absolutely no fucks given...
It's actually polished raw aluminum. I have an F1 raw AR. Mine hasn't been mirror polished tho and I prefer the Mad-Max look it has that way instead of the super shine.
Another little secret I stumbled across tho, is to go search the web for raw unfinished AR parts and you'll see they sell for way cheaper too. I guess they're sold this way to dealers who build and then paint them at a discount. But myself I kinda like the raw look. Handguards and upper recievers for like 50$ that cost tons more if painted or anodized. Some folks paint thier rifles camo etc anyways. Worth a check tho
@@hughgrection3052 nice
Bro thank you so much I spent $400 on my franklin binary trigger I was fucking pissed I thought I was out so much money
Enjoy my friend
Thank you for using my 11 minutes well. Just subscribed 🤘
After polishing the 2 pieces so they slide smoothly, I still had a drag in there. I found that the pin with the c clips on it was corroded, so I put it in my drill and polished it also. Problem solved. I have a complete lower ordered so I will check all this out and polish as necessary.
ya... it needs a break in and also needs to be very well oiled
So needs to be ran say a few hundred rounds before binary will function?? My first Franklin armory binary trigger worked flawless never missed a beat, just installed a second on another rifle and it hasn't passed the function test just dry firing...... Not happy about a $400 trigger not working out of the box. Sounds like I'll have to make modifications 🤬
I'm having problems with my binary not resetting. I think it's that little spring not having enough power. How can I fix
Bro I need help how you install the safety selector .
Took mine too both my gunsmiths and said the trigger was fucked in a respectful manner lol didn't know they didn't this bs before I bought it and I got it for my ak as well still shipping though hopefully it doesn't do same shit didn't franklin needs too fix this bs it's 2023
Damn it youtube is gonna demonetize your video. I enjoyed the video though keep doing these bro.
hopefully youve changed your smoke alarm by now... idk how you tolerate that
I have become one with the beeping. It is the song of silence. A reminder of time.
Beep......... beep........ beep...... knowing the beep will come again is the only truth I can rely on. It is always there for me, surrounding us with its call. Many have come and gone since this video... but the beep remains.
@@Divorceization lmaooo
Has anyone used a slack adjuster with this trigger?
Thats what im trying to find out. Did you get an answer?
Well I'm having the opposite problem. Was fine for about 1300 rds and now I have only binary. Safe works but semi and binary position both fire binary. I looked at it for a min and nothing looks broken but haven't taken it apart yet. I'm hoping it's not worn out already 😕
Take it apart, clean it, put it back together man. That's all you can do. Might as well polish the moving parts while you're in there
@@Divorceization well I took it apart, cleaned it, sanded like you did and replaced the ids spring, same problem. I have another one in a rifle so I carefully compared them, no excessive wear. On the malfunctioning trigger I noticed also that if I lowered the hammer slowly with thumb pressure the sear would catch as it was meant to. The only difference was that on the malfunctioning trigger i had used the heavier hammer spring, so I put the lighter purple spring in with the lighter red trigger spring and viloa it works. No idea why, I think the hammer spring was overpowering the ids spring looks like. Idk it was fine for 1500 or so rds. ??? Weird. Hopefully it lasts longer this time lol.
Or maybe the hammer spring was running the hammer faster than the disconnector spring could keep up with? I guess that would make more sense.
@@KurtOnoIR I think that was probably a mismatch in spring power coupled with normal break in so it just wasn't operating. I think I used all lightweight stuff on mine or all mil spec. I know I didn't mix n match
@@Divorceization yes could be, i didn't mix and match either tho I don't think. The problem trigger with the heavy (milspec) springs was in one gun and the other one with the lighter springs was in a separate rifle. Now they both have the lighter springs. I have two binary triggers in two separate guns. I should have just tried to swap the disconnector spring just to see, maybe that was fatigued early. I dont want to take it apart again tho lol.
Does this trigger require a full auto bolt carrier to function correctly?
The Franklin binary does not require a full auto bcg. The fostech does.
And the frt-15 does. Have fun
If I paid the $450 for one of these, I'd be on the phone with Franklin before I did all this work.
They typically work pretty well in manufacture lowers due to the precise dimensions. But 80% lowers can be off by just a hair and cause these issues. But mainly one of the problems is for sure that IDS spring. They'd probably do nothing but send another one which would do the same. My only hope is someone that works there sees this and implements changes on their end.
@@Divorceization That makes sense. I understand. And, I can see them telling you they can’t help if it’s an 80% lower. Thanks for putting out this detailed information.
A white with a chirping smoke detector? Is this filmed in an alternate universe?
Smoke detectors are a government conspiracy to get you to voluntarily maintain listening devices in your home in coordination with Japanese battery company Energizer. Let them beep!
FOR THE LOVE OF GOD BROTHER IN JESUS NAME I PRAY YOU SEE THIS AND RESPOND BUT CAN YOU SHOE US HIWNTO CHROME “polish” our AR at home please
LMAO
Strange mine and my three buddies all work perfectly maybe u got a lemon
Did you put them into lowers you milled out yourself and converted to working from a hunk of metal or did you buy a predrilled lower? This is more useful for people who made 80% lowers than someone who bought a lower that had been cut with laser precision.
@@Divorceization no I have a stock anderson and buddies have stock brands also. No milling or nothing, maybe we got lucky. Whatever I believe franklin has a good product, little expensive but that everything these days.
@@bobscott117 yeah they are pretty neat things. But yeah the anderson lowers are cut on a high end CNC machine so the "slop" is almost nothing. These Franklin triggers require perfect precision to work right out of the box. And, as you saw in the clip this lower was made in the garage with a dremel and a drill so the precision is not perfect and forces the geometry of the trigger to be a little off which is why these mods are needed. I tried using a drop in fostech but the "box" for the fostech also requires a perfectly cut lower and Franklin's trigger as you know is a multi piece trigger that isn't wrapped in a metal trigger housing so it was perfect.
Use your old hammer
I wish that were true but I tried several hammers from all sorts of different manufactures. Wish it were that easy but if it worked for you then awesome.
Yeah mine fires on safe the binary and semi works fine but firing on safe is some bs