You are the man! Just so everyone knows filing the back off the hammer like this genius recommended worked just as well, I decided to take the hammer mod route because I had an extra hammer and didn't want to void any warranties on the bfs3. Now it works great and Franklin Armory still owes me for selling me a $400 project...
Glad it got you sorted. None of my files or dremel were good enough at the time to get anywhere on the hammer so hopefully ot wasn't too laborious for you.
@@Divorceization I used an angle grinder with a steady stream of cold water to not damage any hardening in the hammer, only had to take about 1/16 of material off.
@@harrisonfantasia7200 definitely a good way to go. I am now about 3000 rounds or so in on my trigger and its running great. I give it a shot of penetrating oil from time to time. So atleast the cheap extruded metal of the trigger holds up decent. Have fun and stay frosty
After all this time you would figure that Franklin would have this remedied. Bought one 11/2022 for $300 + ship/tax. Thanks to you and the other suggestions in the forum I got it running correctly in dryfire in all three positions. Removing the excess metal off the back up disconnector to match IDS and stretched the IDS spring just a touch and Wa Lah.
I moved the same model of trigger from a S&W M&P 10 to a .223 AR pistol I was building and incurred the same issue, I found that in pushing the slave pin with the trigger pin the IDS spring had gotten sheared into.My remedy was to take a same diameter spring normally used on a detent pin and cut it to the length of the opening where it was to reside. When the slave pin followed by the trigger pin was inserted enough tension was present to attain good working function.
I have heard of and seen the shearing as a possible common issue. I thought that happened first and you can see in the video I had a pack of brand new springs and it still wouldn't go. So I think upgrading the spring like you or using a solid spacer like mine is both efficient. I haven't had a problem yet and done a bit of firing.
Thank you for this. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why binary mode doesn't work. BTW. Spikes lower, not 80% did the same thing. I've noticed a couple other "fix" videos like yours but none with the detail you went into. One thing I noticed is that they were all the straight trigger version. I also have a curved version I bought a couple years ago that went in and works fine in my Ruger with no modification. Suffice it to say, it now functions as it should after a little trimming of the IDS. Again, thank you.
Did you try switching out the Franklin Armory hammer for a milspec hammer? Sometimes the hammers that FA send with their kits are out of spec and switching them for another milspec hammer solves the issue of “semi only” in binary position. Seen it with my own eyes. I’d try that before mutilating the trigger assembly.
I tried 2 other hammers from 2 other manufacturer semi auto triggers. One a S&W MP15 and another from a DD. Both failed to fix the problem I tried everything before going to this step. I do not think this will be as common for people who have manufactured lowers to perfect spec. This was an 80% conversion so I imagine the variances ever so slightly off from a jig or whatever device can be just enough.
@@mauiblades yeah my friend had his lower manufactured and we bought our triggers at the same store same lot and his worked like a charm but us 80% guys have to get a little creative. No safety functions were lost shaving down that metal. I'm sure it has a purpose being that shape but I have not run into a problem yet
Smoke detectors are part of a larger government conspiracy to partner with japanese battery company Energizer to make you buy 9V batteries and use your own money to power listening devices in your home. Let them beep!
Is it supposed to be hard to set the hammer back for the release on the binary setting? When I dry fire and cock it I have to fight with it a little bit on the reset for the release hammer. Just wondering if that is normal?
When mine is in safe the trigger doesn't move at all and I have to kind of force it in and out of safe. It doesnt feel right semi works normal so far. Binary is inconsistent. Should I follow the mods on this video?
Just but my 8th; wanna build a Gucci Glock tho I hate glocks but the grip modules look like a nice 1911 ish style with undercut triggger guard, beaver tail and modular.
No, the geometry will not change by using a stronger or weaker spring. The BCG pushes the hammer back and it makes contact with the trigger assembly in the problem areas in the video. You will either need to try a different hammer, grind your hammer, or grind away the problem area as mentioned
@@Divorceization Yes, but the BCG moves the hammer to a certain extent and the rest of the movement is by momentum. Perhaps with a stronger hammer spring, it could prevent the hammer from continuing to go too far and reset the IDS. For example, If you were to pull the charging hammer manually, the hammer probably wouldn’t reset the IDS.
@@fatfree69 it takes 10 minutes to try. But I never use anything but the strongest spring for the hammer as I want to ensure to avoid light primer strikes and it happened regardless. At this point, you are theorizing about it. Go try, and you will see what your result is. But my experience and best guess, says you will need to modify the other parts. I'm not trying to be rude but if you think your way is better go try it and report back your findings. Someone, years from now will appreciate the data.
@@Divorceization Oh, no, not saying my theory is correct. Wasn’t sure if it was already tried on your end. I haven’t test fire yet as my dry fire Franklin manual test has already failed at this very problem. It makes me wonder how others have it working out of the box, while you and I need to shave the IDS. Bad batch?
@@fatfree69 some have said Franklin's hammers themselves are out of spec. Another option would be a completely different hammer than the mil spec style. Look up something called a lightweight speed hammer. It doesn't have the tail which is what hits the ids. Anderson manufacturing has an interesting one as well.
Yes it worked great, I have 3 uppers just like it in different calibers. I will be posting a video showcasing them all at the range very soon just to complete the evidence!
I'm quite certain you did something very, very wrong. I sincerely doubt that you would need to do this much to make it work, other people have made it work with so much less. On a $400 piece, too.
@@SoWe1 it worked better testing it using the bolt to actually charge and such. I have test fired it a few times and tried to see if it would fail and do far so good. Never had a run away or any sketchy trigger problems as that was my biggest concern to comply with NFA standards
@@SoWe1 also bear in mind this is for an 80% lower. I have installed these on machined factory lowers without needing such modification. On an 80% its hard to get it perfect without higher end mills
Lifesaver I was losing my mind on why the binary was not working.
You are the man! Just so everyone knows filing the back off the hammer like this genius recommended worked just as well, I decided to take the hammer mod route because I had an extra hammer and didn't want to void any warranties on the bfs3. Now it works great and Franklin Armory still owes me for selling me a $400 project...
Glad it got you sorted. None of my files or dremel were good enough at the time to get anywhere on the hammer so hopefully ot wasn't too laborious for you.
@@Divorceization I used an angle grinder with a steady stream of cold water to not damage any hardening in the hammer, only had to take about 1/16 of material off.
@@harrisonfantasia7200 definitely a good way to go. I am now about 3000 rounds or so in on my trigger and its running great. I give it a shot of penetrating oil from time to time. So atleast the cheap extruded metal of the trigger holds up decent. Have fun and stay frosty
11B, The one I installed would not function during the dry checks, but with practical tests, it worked. Chief
Yeah I think the BCG has a lot to do with the geometry
After all this time you would figure that Franklin would have this remedied. Bought one 11/2022 for $300 + ship/tax. Thanks to you and the other suggestions in the forum I got it running correctly in dryfire in all three positions. Removing the excess metal off the back up disconnector to match IDS and stretched the IDS spring just a touch and Wa Lah.
Glad we could help, it's a great trigger otherwise. Just needed some tweaks. Wish Franklin binary would watch the video lol
Kudos to you. Installed on my M&p 15-22. Had to do the same mods but now it runs like a top.
You’re the man bro!!! So frustrating spending so much on a trigger and it not functioning properly. This video is spot on thank you
I didn’t realize that the little spring needed to go in and had it all together without it, and found this video and saved my ass
I moved the same model of trigger from a S&W M&P 10 to a .223 AR pistol I was building and incurred the same issue, I found that in pushing the slave pin with the trigger pin the IDS spring had gotten sheared into.My remedy was to take a same diameter spring normally used on a detent pin and cut it to the length of the opening where it was to reside. When the slave pin followed by the trigger pin was inserted enough tension was present to attain good working function.
I have heard of and seen the shearing as a possible common issue. I thought that happened first and you can see in the video I had a pack of brand new springs and it still wouldn't go. So I think upgrading the spring like you or using a solid spacer like mine is both efficient. I haven't had a problem yet and done a bit of firing.
I had the same issues and followed this video as a guide and it worked like a charm!
Glad you could get bangin again sir
Thanks man, you saved me hours of frustration. i could not get this damn thing to work!! much appreciated.
Thank you for this. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why binary mode doesn't work. BTW. Spikes lower, not 80% did the same thing. I've noticed a couple other "fix" videos like yours but none with the detail you went into. One thing I noticed is that they were all the straight trigger version. I also have a curved version I bought a couple years ago that went in and works fine in my Ruger with no modification.
Suffice it to say, it now functions as it should after a little trimming of the IDS. Again, thank you.
You bet patriot
Mine did the same thing on installing it,I oiled it well and it functions perfect
Great thx for your efforts
Did you try switching out the Franklin Armory hammer for a milspec hammer? Sometimes the hammers that FA send with their kits are out of spec and switching them for another milspec hammer solves the issue of “semi only” in binary position. Seen it with my own eyes. I’d try that before mutilating the trigger assembly.
I tried 2 other hammers from 2 other manufacturer semi auto triggers. One a S&W MP15 and another from a DD. Both failed to fix the problem I tried everything before going to this step. I do not think this will be as common for people who have manufactured lowers to perfect spec. This was an 80% conversion so I imagine the variances ever so slightly off from a jig or whatever device can be just enough.
Oh yeah that makes sense. Being out of spec even microscopically can be enough to through it off.
@@mauiblades yeah my friend had his lower manufactured and we bought our triggers at the same store same lot and his worked like a charm but us 80% guys have to get a little creative. No safety functions were lost shaving down that metal. I'm sure it has a purpose being that shape but I have not run into a problem yet
I guess it’s good to have to solve these kinds of problems sometimes, as it forces ya to really dig in and learn exactly how things function.
Hey brotha love these 2 videos just wondering should I just try out the Anderson speed hammer before filing ??
This video is a bit old now, I am not sure you can find the anderson speed hammer but if you can it's always worth a shot!
I felt your pain as I was fucking with the ids spring!!
Great video man. Is this a 80% lower as wel? Also are you from Louisiana too??
Change that battery
Smoke detectors are part of a larger government conspiracy to partner with japanese battery company Energizer to make you buy 9V batteries and use your own money to power listening devices in your home. Let them beep!
Was gonna say the same!
Safety 3rd!
Is it supposed to be hard to set the hammer back for the release on the binary setting? When I dry fire and cock it I have to fight with it a little bit on the reset for the release hammer. Just wondering if that is normal?
Yes it is hard to push down but I assure you the big bang bang and bolt slidey is mighty enough!
Why would they sale this trigger and they know it doesn’t work
Just noticed your handle, I was 11H
Thanks for the help.
damn, nobody's appreciating this guys humor in the comments 😂 2 thumbs up from me bro
Say bro when are you going to post that video of the gun on range day?
Stay tuned its coming soon. Haven't had much time but should get it in a couple weeks
@@Divorceization cool I will keep an eye out for it. Thanks keep up the good work.
Like the machine woork
When mine is in safe the trigger doesn't move at all and I have to kind of force it in and out of safe. It doesnt feel right semi works normal so far. Binary is inconsistent. Should I follow the mods on this video?
Just but my 8th; wanna build a Gucci Glock tho I hate glocks but the grip modules look like a nice 1911 ish style with undercut triggger guard, beaver tail and modular.
The kit comes with different hammer spring rates. Would a stronger hammer spring prevent it from going forward to far to reset the IDS?
No, the geometry will not change by using a stronger or weaker spring. The BCG pushes the hammer back and it makes contact with the trigger assembly in the problem areas in the video. You will either need to try a different hammer, grind your hammer, or grind away the problem area as mentioned
@@Divorceization Yes, but the BCG moves the hammer to a certain extent and the rest of the movement is by momentum. Perhaps with a stronger hammer spring, it could prevent the hammer from continuing to go too far and reset the IDS. For example, If you were to pull the charging hammer manually, the hammer probably wouldn’t reset the IDS.
@@fatfree69 it takes 10 minutes to try. But I never use anything but the strongest spring for the hammer as I want to ensure to avoid light primer strikes and it happened regardless. At this point, you are theorizing about it. Go try, and you will see what your result is. But my experience and best guess, says you will need to modify the other parts. I'm not trying to be rude but if you think your way is better go try it and report back your findings. Someone, years from now will appreciate the data.
@@Divorceization Oh, no, not saying my theory is correct. Wasn’t sure if it was already tried on your end. I haven’t test fire yet as my dry fire Franklin manual test has already failed at this very problem. It makes me wonder how others have it working out of the box, while you and I need to shave the IDS. Bad batch?
@@fatfree69 some have said Franklin's hammers themselves are out of spec. Another option would be a completely different hammer than the mil spec style. Look up something called a lightweight speed hammer. It doesn't have the tail which is what hits the ids. Anderson manufacturing has an interesting one as well.
where’s the upper part?
🫡🫡
C clip not D ring. Have you live fired yet?
Yes it worked great, I have 3 uppers just like it in different calibers. I will be posting a video showcasing them all at the range very soon just to complete the evidence!
Have you tried it out yet? If so...... how’d it do?
Worked like a charm. No problems whatsoever
I'm quite certain you did something very, very wrong. I sincerely doubt that you would need to do this much to make it work, other people have made it work with so much less. On a $400 piece, too.
28:10 and around ... have you ever gotten this procedure to work?
@@SoWe1 it worked better testing it using the bolt to actually charge and such. I have test fired it a few times and tried to see if it would fail and do far so good. Never had a run away or any sketchy trigger problems as that was my biggest concern to comply with NFA standards
@@SoWe1 also bear in mind this is for an 80% lower. I have installed these on machined factory lowers without needing such modification. On an 80% its hard to get it perfect without higher end mills
Franklin trigger sucks
@Hewhoremains420 i actually have one and it suck